team3s
Tuesday, May 8
2001
Volume 01 : Number
486
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 May 2001 12:56:16 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking to upgrade
In addition to what's already been said about
the '94 Stealth TT... I agree
that it's the best year for "normal"
slight mods. And as a "Stealth guy", I
also prefer its more understated
styling over the VR4. But the 2nd gen
'94+ of both 3S lines is
also "beefier" in a number of component areas--
plus it has better impact
protection, with a number of upgraded "crumple
zones", and it comes stock
with dual airbags. Although some people
apparently prefer the more
retro-look and problem-prone pop-up headlights in
earlier years (no doubt, in
some cases, for the questionably-attractive
"slit-eye" headlight mod), the
headlights in the '94+ models look much more
stylish, IMO. Also a
matter of personal taste is the hood pods on the 1st
gen models - the
smoother and more sculpted lines of the 2nd gen one-piece
hood are another
thing to consider when deciding what you like best.
If you do plan on
making serious mods, and/or you prefer the racier side
panels of the 3000GT,
the '93 VR4 is your best choice. The unobtrusive
spoiler makes for
slightly better rear visibility, too. And I don't know if
it's just me,
but there is something about the "balance" of the '93 3k that
just feels
"perfect".
I don't think there is a single model or year of any 3S that I
wouldn't be
proud to own. But years from now, I'm guessing that the
models that end up
in museums will be the '94 Stealth RT/TT and the '93
3000GT VR4.
Just MTCW...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 16:18:44
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: CF Hood
Geoff,
This was out at Buttonwillow, last year, in
talking about what lightening had been done, might be done to your 3K. Maybe I
missed some of what you were saying, but I thought you indicated that CF was too
thin and had too much flex..compared to fiberglass I guess.
Anyway, I
was mostly interested in where to buy, what style of hood you ended up
choosing.
Didn't mean to put any words in your mouth if they were not
intended.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001
6:17 PM
To: Zobel, Kurt
Cc: Geoff Mohler;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: CF Hood
I said what?
I said CHEAP hoods sucked once..but
repeat where I made the blanket
statement that theyre all bad.
On Fri,
4 May 2001, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> Geoff,
>
> Hey, you said
CF hoods were bad, too much flex. Sandbagger.
> Are you getting one
from GTPro? I was going to try for one to use at Willow but funds and time ran
out before the Apr 28-29 event.
>
> Kurt
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001
7:06 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Some new videos
>
>
>
http://speedracer.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/baer>
> most are in the RX7..there are some MR-Spyder ones however.
>
> This was at the Baer Brake day at Buttonwillow a few weeks ago.
>
> The RX-7 should show up on Popular Hot Rod TV soon..
>
>
Team3s Content:
> VR4 is still down.
> CF hood seems "close" to
delivery
> ---
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:19:13
EDT
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re:
Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re: headlight "fogging"
I saw you make mention
of Mopar Window Cleaner. Does this stuff do anything
beyond the realm
of, say, Windex? I.e. does it remove scratches and the
like? My
windows on my '92 RT are both very scratched up. I bought the car
that
way (unknown to me until I bought the car, ahh the risks of buying cars
on
ebay!) with heavy scratches on both sides of the power window glass. I
have since corrected the problem, it was that someone did a very poor job of
putting it all back together after taking it apart for some reason, but I'm
still left with these heavy vertical scratches in the glass. If this
Mopar
Window Cleaner is meant for removing scratches on glass, or if there
is some
other space-age rubbing compund or something similar for glass, then
please
someone point me in the right direction to get some!
Thanks.
- -Steve Cherifi
'92 Stealth R/T NA, Firestorm
Red
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:34:23
-0400
From: "Adam M. Kuhn" <
amkuhn@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Looking to Upgrade Update
> All,
> Thanks for the
great input and information about the 3S cars, specifically
> the
Stealth. Being a "Stealth" guy, I prefer the Stealth to the
3000GT.
> Granted, it sounds kinda funny from a guy that currently drives
a 1995
> 3000GT Base (DOHC), but I appreciate the Stealth's subtle
styling...the
> 3000GT is still my second choice though...
>
> I think I have decided on the 1994 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo as it seems
to
> have all of the options (toys) that I want plus the horsepower and
the
> halogen lights. I do like the door scoops of the '91-'93
models but am
> afraid of the problems with the 5-speed tranny (as I plan
to keep this car
> as long as possible!!). Now, I just need to ask
if anyone knows where I
> can locate a good-excellent condition Black 1994
Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
> with the dark gray leather interior (I found one
in NC with the red
> leather interior and didn't like it) and sunroof
(prefer Infinity Sound
> and CD changer but can always upgrade
later). Again, prefer that it be at
> least somewhat close to
Pennsylvania (current job doesn't allow much time
> off for travel to
points West) but again, a good-excellent condition 1994
> Black R/T TT
might change that...
>
> I plan only to do minor modifications to
the car...Boost Control, Air
> Intake (the K&N FIPK I already have),
and maybe modify the exhaust
> (probably wait till the current exhaust
goes) and think that the 1994
> offers the best bang for the buck.
>
> Thanks again for all of your help, I will gladly accept any further
input
> all of you have on the upgrade, after all, till I buy one my mind
is still
> open.
>
> Very Respectfully
>
> Adam
Kuhn
> 1995 Caracas Red 3000GT Base (DOHC)
>
> PS For those
of you curious, my promotion now means that I am called CPT
> Adam Kuhn
(yup, I am in the military!) Take Care!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 15:55:02
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking to Upgrade Update
OK, Cap'n Kuhn (isn't that a
cereal?) :-) , it sounds like you're making a
good choice. If you
haven't already looked there already, try
www.autotrader.com . You have a great
advantage that you're not in a
hurry - plenty of time to pick and choose on
*your* terms. Take some time
and visit the "Buying a car" section on
the Motley Fool website for some
great ideas, and things to watch out
for:
http://www.fool.com/car/Buyingacar.htm?REF=PRMPINGood
luck!
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Adam M. Kuhn" <
amkuhn@earthlink.net>>
All,
>
Thanks for the great input and information about the 3S cars,
specifically
> the Stealth. Being a "Stealth" guy, I prefer the
Stealth to the 3000GT.
> Granted, it sounds kinda funny from a guy that
currently drives a 1995
> 3000GT Base (DOHC), but I appreciate the
Stealth's subtle styling...the
> 3000GT is still my second choice
though...
>
> I think I have decided on the 1994 Stealth R/T Twin
Turbo as it seems to
> have all of the options (toys) that I want plus the
horsepower and the
> halogen lights. I do like the door scoops of
the '91-'93 models but am
> afraid of the problems with the 5-speed tranny
(as I plan to keep this car
> as long as possible!!). Now, I just
need to ask if anyone knows where I
> can locate a good-excellent
condition Black 1994 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
> with the dark gray leather
interior (I found one in NC with the red
> leather interior and didn't
like it) and sunroof (prefer Infinity Sound
> and CD changer but can
always upgrade later). Again, prefer that it be at
> least somewhat
close to Pennsylvania (current job doesn't allow much time
> off for
travel to points West) but again, a good-excellent condition 1994
> Black
R/T TT might change that...
>
> I plan only to do minor
modifications to the car...Boost Control, Air
> Intake (the K&N FIPK I
already have), and maybe modify the exhaust
> (probably wait till the
current exhaust goes) and think that the 1994
> offers the best bang for
the buck.
>
> Thanks again for all of your help, I will gladly
accept any further input
> all of you have on the upgrade, after all, till
I buy one my mind is still
> open.
>
> Very
Respectfully
>
> Adam Kuhn
> 1995 Caracas Red 3000GT Base
(DOHC)
>
> PS For those of you curious, my promotion now means that
I am called CPT
> Adam Kuhn (yup, I am in the military!) Take
Care!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:55:00
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re: headlight
"fogging"
Steve:
Though not an expert on 3kgt
or Stealths yet, I have had some experience
with Glass. On sailboats
and poweroats, the windows (plexiglass) usually get
scratched by salt
deposits left on them when the water dries off. In order
to repair the
scratches, I have used glass polishing kits available at
automobile
refinishing distributors, (like sherwin williams), to re-polish
the glass.
You may be able to do the same thing with rubbing compound or
valve lapping
compound. Most glass polishing kits come with a buffing wheel
that
chucks into a 3/8" drill, for easier grinding.
I have also seen some kits, which are normally used to repair glass
cracks,
used to repair scratches, but the repair material usually gets
scrubbed off
by whatever created the problem in the first place.
Best of luck.
_Thor (1991 R/T turbo)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:11:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SS lines update
Porterfield got the OEM lines today.
I
told em that when they have a good idea on cost, we'd try to get a
group
order of a dozen or so..so who knows.
Just letting everyone know
whats up.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:21:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: Oleg Malkin <
olegmalkin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
[none]
Ok guys,
I know its a stupid question, but...
I bought my
base 93 Stealth without a manual.
There is a light that comes up on the
panel
constantly,
I bet it's some fluid indicator. I don't know how
to
describe it: it looks like a fluid container and it
is on the very
right of the panel in the middle.
If anyone knows what it is please
respond.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:21:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Oleg Malkin <
olegmalkin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wieird panel light
Ok guys,
I know its a stupid question,
but...
I bought my base 93 Stealth without a manual.
There is a light that
comes up on the panel
constantly,
I bet it's some fluid indicator. I don't
know how to
describe it: it looks like a fluid container and it
is on the
very right of the panel in the middle.
If anyone knows what it is please
respond.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:24:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Some rally stuff..
http://www.rally.speedtoys.comMost
of the photos I took while not doing anything else, some good,
some
odd.
Spread the word to the rally people ya
know.
Team3S Content:
I was standing during the invite-only
press state the morning of day 1
(Speedtoys.Com is a respected world
authority on nothing, so I was able to
BS my way into a VIP Press Pass for
the rally) out in the middle of
nowhere when a van dropped off 8 people in
Mitsubishi shirts. It was the
Corporate Rally Sponsorhsip team.
No shit.
We talked..joked..then I mentioned I had a VR4 were lookin to
road race.
It was mentioned I should stop that and rally it..Id kick
ass.
I calmly said..and explained that for an quick $1M and steady supply
of
transmissions something could be done.
*shrug*
Too bad its
still not production, coz the idea did seem kinda cool to a
few of
them..however it was just not gonna happen. :^)
You cant see -them-
but you can see thier black shirts in some of the
early out-in-the-sticks
photos.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:40:04
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Some rally stuff..
>
>I was standing during the
invite-only press state the morning of day 1
>(Speedtoys.Com is a
respected world authority on nothing, so I was able to
>BS my way into a
VIP Press Pass for the rally) out in the middle of
>nowhere when a van
dropped off 8 people in Mitsubishi shirts. It was the
>Corporate
Rally Sponsorhsip team. No shit.>We talked..joked..then I
mentioned
I had a VR4 were lookin to road race.
>It was mentioned I should stop that
and rally it..Id kick ass.
>I calmly said..and explained that for an quick
$1M and steady supply of
>transmissions something could be
done.
>
Wrong question! You shoulda asked them idiots how come we
are not getting
the Lancer Evo 7 for another two years. The furshlugginer
Subaru WRX is
available, the dumb-ass stock Mitsu Lancer is coming, but they
are
witholding the Evo 7 for two more years!!!
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:57:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Some rally stuff..
Ask the DOT, dont ask Mitsu.
Its
not easy..and production line and stampiong changes need to take
place.
We went over that.
On Mon, 7 May 2001, Merritt wrote:
>
>
> >I was standing during the invite-only press state the morning
of day 1
> >(Speedtoys.Com is a respected world authority on nothing,
so I was able to
> >BS my way into a VIP Press Pass for the rally) out
in the middle of
> >nowhere when a van dropped off 8 people in
Mitsubishi shirts. It was the
> >Corporate Rally Sponsorhsip
team. No shit.>We talked..joked..then I
> mentioned I had a VR4
were lookin to road race.
> >It was mentioned I should stop that and
rally it..Id kick ass.
> >I calmly said..and explained that for an
quick $1M and steady supply of
> >transmissions something could be
done.
> >
> Wrong question! You shoulda asked them idiots
how come we are not getting
> the Lancer Evo 7 for another two years. The
furshlugginer Subaru WRX is
> available, the dumb-ass stock Mitsu Lancer
is coming, but they are
> witholding the Evo 7 for two more
years!!!
>
> Rich/old poop
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 22:04:51
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wieird panel light
Oleg,
It's probably either low coolant level or
low windshield wiper fluid
level (check both the front and read tank).
That's the best I can guess
without a description of what the symbol actually
looks like. Good
Luck.
Greg
Oleg Malkin
wrote:
> Ok guys,
> I know its a stupid question, but...
>
I bought my base 93 Stealth without a manual.
> There is a light that
comes up on the panel
> constantly,
> I bet it's some fluid
indicator. I don't know how to
> describe it: it looks like a fluid
container and it
> is on the very right of the panel in the
middle.
> If anyone knows what it is please
respond.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 7 May 2001 21:26:40
-0700
From:
kristie1@thesimpsons.comSubject:
Team3S: exhaust system suggestions
Could anyone recommend the best
exhaust system and headers for a 92 rt/tt, and where can I get the best
deal?
Kristie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 00:21:53
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Some rally stuff..
Hey Rich,
Don't jump the gun on the
EVO 7. I've been doing my own research and talked
with some
people. There is a good chance the EVO 7 with AWD and 275hp will
be
landing at a dealer near you in September of this year. I've heard the
NA Lancer is coming in July, then the Evo 7 around September. Of
course
none of this is offical, but I've heard some really strong
rumors. Time
will tell. That EVO 7 is going to run circles
around the Subie.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>,
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Some rally stuff..
>Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:40:04
-0500
>>Wrong question! You shoulda asked them idiots how
come we are not getting
>the Lancer Evo 7 for another two years. The
furshlugginer Subaru WRX is
>available, the dumb-ass stock Mitsu Lancer is
coming, but they are
>witholding the Evo 7 for two more
years!!!
>
>Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 06:09:22
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Blitz DSBC problems
Hi All,
I have a question about the Blitz
DSBC. I want to replace the cheap/flimsy
vacuum line that runs into
the back of controller unit with a stronger more
durable vacuum line.
Has anyone pulled the original vacuum line out of the
controller unit?
Is there a nipple (male coupling) that I can attach real
vacuum line to, or
is it a female coupling like the connectors supplied in
the kit? If
so, does anyone have a source for the thin type of vacuum tubing
that is
supplied with the Blitz DSBC kit, that is higher quality? The
original
tubing supplied with the kit is very cheap and very prone to kinking
and
bending. I discovered this after helping a friend install a Greddy 60 mm
electronic boost gauge. After we installed his gauge we compared the
boost
levels displayed by the DSBC and the Greddy unit, the DSBC was showing
much
lower boost levels (1.5 -2.5 psi at the 12-15 psi range) than the
Greddy
gauge. We suspected the cheap vacuum line was the cause, we
pulled the
entire vacuum line through the fire wall and found a bad kink as
well as a
compressed area where it had run through the firewall. We
cut out the bad
sections and re-installed it, which fixed the problem,
however it is likely
to happen again. I'm installing a DSBC on my car
and I'd like to avoid this
problem all together and use quality vacuum
tubes.
Another quick question: For those of you that have a DSBC and a
separate
boost gauge, what are you using as your vacuum/boost sources?
Currently I
run my electronic boost gauge off a tee I put in the Fuel
Pressure Regulator
vacuum line coming off the back of the plenum. Is
it ok to run both the DSBC
and my boost gauge off the FPR line? This
would be 3 devices running off one
vacuum source, could this degrade the
boost signal going to the DSBC? Can
anyone suggest an alternate
vacuum/boost source that I can tap my boost gauge
or DSBC
into?
Thanks for the help
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 06:53:13
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wieird panel light
That's the low coolant reserve indicator.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oleg Malkin
[mailto:olegmalkin@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 9:22 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Wieird panel light
Ok guys,
I know its a stupid question,
but...
I bought my base 93 Stealth without a manual.
There is a light that
comes up on the panel
constantly,
I bet it's some fluid indicator. I don't
know how to
describe it: it looks like a fluid container and it
is on the
very right of the panel in the middle.
If anyone knows what it is please
respond.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 13:31:41
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: exhaust system suggestions
>Could anyone recommend
the best exhaust system and headers for a 92 rt/tt,
>and where can I get
the best deal?
>Kristie
No headers available and exhaust is only
for sound. If you like a deep tone
and aggressive in the top region then get
the Borla at CarParts.com with a
20% coupon on
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.htmlRoger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 08:27:03
EDT
From:
GTOTLR@cs.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Blitz DSBC problems
-
--part1_cb.10c624a2.28294017_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The DSBC does not
read pressure in psi, it reads in bar. Someone correct me
if I am
wrong but I think it is like 14.1 psi = 1 bar. I think that this may
be your
confusion because you specifically said (1.5 -2.5 psi at the 12-15
psi
range). If this is true, you are reading some very high boost
levels.
Somewhere around 21 - 35 psi. Those are way too
high. 21 may be okay if
you are running aftermarket turbos and fuel
setup but the stock setup cannot
handle anything like
that.
Royal K. Watkins
III
Senior Programmer
Analyst
T |SYS| Inc.
1995 Black 3000GT VR-4 (3SI
#210)
2000 Yellow TL1000R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 09:47:57
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: race day tip
Thanks, Chuck, but I wear a bra wherever I go
now. :-)
For anyone who wants to listen ... the LeBra front end
cover saved about
$400 in front bumper repairs twice. Once was when I
pulled out of a
too-steep road and scraped. The bra ripped but saved
the bumper from being
scratched (how much is a front bumper?) and the other
was a less than 2 mph
bumper-to-bumper hit with a Ford F350 where the
thickness of the bra
compressed and did not dent to front bumper. Both
of which I would have
needed replaced out of pocket since the insurance
starts at about $500
deductible.
My Bra saved both of those and
countless rock chips so it isn't just for the
track (but the real reason is
that underneath are 5 years worth of chips
from the former owner and the two
holes from the front-mounted license
plate). I also have mirror bras
from Colgan and they also save chips. $100
for a bra or $400 in bumper
repainting. That was an easy decision.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Bra, Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 9:23
AM
To: 'Jim Berry';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc: Tim;
kurt zobel; Jose Soriano; George Kuo; damon Rachell; Bruce;
Geoff
Mohler
Subject: RE: Team3S: race day tip
This is a Nascar trick.
I'd be real curious which brand comes off without
taking up the pain. This
would be really nice for track use, notwithstanding
those who won't drive
bra-less (Flash)!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry
[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:28 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc: Tim; kurt zobel; Jose Soriano; Jim Berry; George Kuo; damon Rachell;
>
Bruce; Geoff Mohler
> Subject: Team3S: race day tip
>
> An
equipment saving tip I picked up from the some Viper drivers
> while at
Willow Springs ---- to protect the front of their cars while
> driving at
high speeds at open track events they cover the portions
> of the car at
risk with clear vinyl shelf covering. The sticky back shelf
> liner gets a
little tattered over the course of the weekind but I was
> told it peels
off eaisly and cleans up with soap and water. Worth a
> try if you want to
protect the front of your car from rock damage.
> It's probably too late
for my car --- the front bumper cover is pretty
> beat up, but, when I get
it repainted I'll keep it in mind.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 10:16:47
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
exhaust system suggestions
Altered Atmosphere has headers. I
saw several sets this weekend at the
Ocean City gathering. They're
mighty expensive, but they ARE available.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth
ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 16:29:27
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust system suggestions
>Altered Atmosphere has
headers. I saw several sets this weekend at the
>Ocean City
gathering. They're mighty expensive, but they ARE available.
I also
HAVE headers - custom made - and those Greddy headers are remachined
to fit
their application idea. Nothing to think about as there is no gain
to be
found with the stock turbos and non-reworked turbine
housing.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:04:31
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re: headlight
"fogging"
Steve,
No, the Mopar Window Cleaner doesn't repair pits
or scratches. What it
does do is remove the nasty film that builds up
on the inside of our car
windows, and with a lot less effort than traditional
window cleaners like
Windex. The "fogging" in the '94 headlight modules
appears to be a more
concentrated version of a similar film, so I used the
MWC to make life
easier.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 12:03:34
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Some rally stuff..
Yeah, the EVO sounds like one bad ass
machine. Too bad its bad ass ugly too.
However, race trim makes up for
many things, beauty and the beast, all in one.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 7:40 PM
To:
Geoff Mohler;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Some rally stuff..
>
>I was standing during the
invite-only press state the morning of day 1
>(Speedtoys.Com is a
respected world authority on nothing, so I was able to
>BS my way into a
VIP Press Pass for the rally) out in the middle of
>nowhere when a van
dropped off 8 people in Mitsubishi shirts. It was the
>Corporate
Rally Sponsorhsip team. No shit.>We talked..joked..then I
mentioned
I had a VR4 were lookin to road race.
>It was mentioned I should stop that
and rally it..Id kick ass.
>I calmly said..and explained that for an quick
$1M and steady supply of
>transmissions something could be
done.
>
Wrong question! You shoulda asked them idiots how come we
are not getting
the Lancer Evo 7 for another two years. The furshlugginer
Subaru WRX is
available, the dumb-ass stock Mitsu Lancer is coming, but they
are
witholding the Evo 7 for two more years!!!
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 18:04:41
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blitz DSBC problems
>The DSBC does not read pressure in
psi, it reads in bar. Someone correct me
>if I am wrong but I think
it is like 14.1 psi = 1 bar. I think that this may
14.7 psi = 1
bar.
But the DSBC reads in kg/cm2 => 1 kg/cm2 = 0.98 bar = 14.22
psi
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 18:15:43
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blitz DSBC problems
>I have a question about the Blitz
DSBC. I want to replace the cheap/flimsy
>vacuum line that runs into
the back of controller unit with a stronger more
>durable vacuum
line.
No need to do this, as it is perfect for the chip attached to it
inside.
With the kit comes a T that can be used for the adapting. I
myself used a
reducer that allows to sleeve in the hose right behind the
unit and then is
attached to a silicone hose going to the intake plenum.
Works perfect :)
>run my electronic boost gauge off a tee I put in the
Fuel Pressure Regulator
>vacuum line coming off the back of the
plenum. Is it ok to run both the DSBC
>and my boost gauge off the
FPR line? This would be 3 devices running off one
>vacuum source,
could this degrade the boost signal going to the DSBC?
None of them is
releasing pressure so it is not a problem. I saw no
difference at all when
playing with 3 boost meters the DSBC and Dual Timer.
Just keep the hoses as
short as possible !
> Can
>anyone suggest an
alternate vacuum/boost source that I can tap my boost gauge
>or DSBC
into?
Yes, tap into the plenum directly.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 11:45:12
-0500
From: "George Walker" <
gwalker@isphereonline.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000 GT-VR4 Overheat problem
WHAT SEEMS TO HAPPEN:
It seems
like it has a pressure leak somewhere in the system that is causing
it to
lose coolant. My guess is that the engine runs fine until the coolant
level
drops below where the water pump can pick it up and the car then
promptly
overheats.
WHY IT DOESN'T SEEM LIKE A HEAD PROBLEM:
- - It does
not seem to have any air bubbles coming out of the radiator
overflow when
running at normal temperature.
- - It starts fine, doesn't idle rough at
start, runs great (when not
overheating),etc. etc.
- - I have not
personally checked to see if the spark plugs are fouled, but I
asked my
mechanic if it looked like there was water in the oil and he
said
no...
THE BLOW BY BLOW HISTORY / SYMPTOMOLOGY
OK, this is
a LONG account as I'm not having much luck resolving
the
problem...
Premise:
#1 - I recently purchased a 95 3000 VR4
with low miles (45K) which had been
basically sitting relatively unused for
the last year.
#2 - I drive about 100 - 150 miles per day as I live in the
boonies.
All seemed to be working fine (I put on 5K miles without
incident) when it
overheated on me after driving it around for approximately
100 miles. I
refilled the radiator and dropped it off at my local mechanic
and asked him
to take a look at it.
He pressure tested it and found
nothing.
I picked it up - drove it another 100+ miles without incident
when suddenly
the upper radiator hose blew out (major section about 6 inches
long) . I
replaced that, drove another 100 miles when it again overheated.
This time
as I was trying to refill the radiator - I could see that any water
I put in
was gushing out of the lower radiator hose (originating at what
appears to
be in the block). I had it towed to a mechanic I've known and
worked with
for quite some time.
I had him replace any and all hoses
that looked like they had wear and while
he had the car had him change the
timing belt.
I got it back - drove it about 20 miles on my way home when
it again
overheated. I had it towed back to him.
We then replaced the
Radiator & cap (which looked slightly gummed & abused).
I picked up
the car - drove it 100'ish miles when it again overheated.
We replaced
the waterpump - drove it 10 miles - it overheated.
Digging through the
maintenance records I've inherited - it looks like the
car has had numerous
repairs - it had already had a new waterpump and timing
belt done at 45k, it
has had the HEAD GASKET replaced at about 30K, etc.
etc.
I think I've
been screwed...any help would be greatly appreciated.
George Walker
95
3000GT-VR4, Red, 50K Miles
email:
3000gt@isphereonline.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 18:06:05
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re: headlight "fogging"
Ok is
there a "solution" that will remove small scratches and pits in
glass
screens? I was told off at the MOT station last month for several
small
scratches on the drivers side of the screen.
- --
George Shaw
- CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
Email:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEmail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Matthews
Sent: 08 May 2001 16:05
To:
StevePKT77@aol.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re: headlight
"fogging"
Steve,
No,
the Mopar Window Cleaner doesn't repair pits or scratches.
What
it
does do is remove the nasty film that builds up on the inside of
our car
windows, and with a lot less effort than traditional window cleaners
like
Windex. The "fogging" in the '94 headlight modules appears to be a
more
concentrated version of a similar film, so I used the MWC to make
life
easier.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:38:41
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Glass polishing (Was: Re: Team3S: Re: Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re:
headlight "fogging" )
I saw an episode of "My Classic Car" on cable a few
weeks ago and they
did a how-to bit on glass restoration. I couldn't
find the writeup
on the site directly, but luckily google caches
everything:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:www.myclassiccar.com/episodes/016109/tip016109.html+rhodite+glass+polish&hl=enhere's
the product they were using:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe?T1=40011&UID=2001050813300400&UREQA=1&FNM=20Hope
that helps.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
+> Ok is there
a "solution" that will remove small scratches and pits in glass
+>
screens? I was told off at the MOT station last month for several small
+>
scratches on the drivers side of the screen.
+>
+> --
+>
George Shaw - CTO
+> XL Solutions Ltd
+>
+>
Email:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.com+>
Email:
george.shaw@btinternet.com+>
Office:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
+> Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
+>
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162 5179
+>
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062 8924
+>
ICQ#:
1741675
+>
+> -----Original Message-----
+> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st+>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jim Matthews
+> Sent:
08 May 2001 16:05
+> To:
StevePKT77@aol.com+> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st+>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Mopar Window Cleaner; was Re: headlight
"fogging"
+>
+> Steve,
+>
+> No, the Mopar Window
Cleaner doesn't repair pits or scratches. What
+> it
+> does
do is remove the nasty film that builds up on the inside of our car
+>
windows, and with a lot less effort than traditional window cleaners
like
+> Windex. The "fogging" in the '94 headlight modules appears
to be a more
+> concentrated version of a similar film, so I used the MWC
to make life
+> easier.
+>
+> - --
+> Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
+>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
+>
http://www.the-matthews.com+>
+> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
+>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html+>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
+> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
+> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
+> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super
Blow-Off Valve
+> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830
Battery
+> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff=
SPHvy)
+> Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
+>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
+> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
+> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,
354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:56:00
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000 GT-VR4 Overheat problem
I have a similar problem with my
'93 3K Base. It turns out to be the
Thermostat.
Victor
'93 3K GT
Black
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
- -----Original Message-----
From:
George Walker [mailto:gwalker@isphereonline.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001
12:45 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 3000 GT-VR4 Overheat problem
WHAT SEEMS TO HAPPEN:
It
seems like it has a pressure leak somewhere in the system that is causing
it
to lose coolant. My guess is that the engine runs fine until the
coolant
level drops below where the water pump can pick it up and the car
then
promptly overheats.
WHY IT DOESN'T SEEM LIKE A HEAD
PROBLEM:
- - It does not seem to have any air bubbles coming out of the
radiator
overflow when running at normal temperature.
- - It starts fine,
doesn't idle rough at start, runs great (when not
overheating),etc. etc.
-
- I have not personally checked to see if the spark plugs are fouled, but
I
asked my mechanic if it looked like there was water in the oil and he
said
no...
THE BLOW BY BLOW HISTORY / SYMPTOMOLOGY
OK, this is
a LONG account as I'm not having much luck resolving
the
problem...
Premise:
#1 - I recently purchased a 95 3000 VR4
with low miles (45K) which had been
basically sitting relatively unused for
the last year.
#2 - I drive about 100 - 150 miles per day as I live in the
boonies.
All seemed to be working fine (I put on 5K miles without
incident) when it
overheated on me after driving it around for approximately
100 miles. I
refilled the radiator and dropped it off at my local mechanic
and asked him
to take a look at it.
He pressure tested it and found
nothing.
I picked it up - drove it another 100+ miles without incident
when suddenly
the upper radiator hose blew out (major section about 6 inches
long) . I
replaced that, drove another 100 miles when it again overheated.
This time
as I was trying to refill the radiator - I could see that any water
I put in
was gushing out of the lower radiator hose (originating at what
appears to
be in the block). I had it towed to a mechanic I've known and
worked with
for quite some time.
I had him replace any and all hoses
that looked like they had wear and while
he had the car had him change the
timing belt.
I got it back - drove it about 20 miles on my way home when
it again
overheated. I had it towed back to him.
We then replaced the
Radiator & cap (which looked slightly gummed & abused).
I picked up
the car - drove it 100'ish miles when it again overheated.
We replaced
the waterpump - drove it 10 miles - it overheated.
Digging through the
maintenance records I've inherited - it looks like the
car has had numerous
repairs - it had already had a new waterpump and timing
belt done at 45k, it
has had the HEAD GASKET replaced at about 30K, etc.
etc.
I think I've
been screwed...any help would be greatly appreciated.
George Walker
95
3000GT-VR4, Red, 50K Miles
email:
3000gt@isphereonline.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 14:01:48
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:Blitz DSBC problems
GTOTLR@cs.com wrote:
<snip>
>"The
DSBC does not read pressure in psi, it reads in bar. Someone correct
me if >I am wrong but I think it is like 14.1 psi = 1 bar. I think
that this
may be your >confusion because you specifically said (1.5 -2.5
psi at the
12-15 psi range)"
I was converting metric (kg/cm2) to
standard (psi) because most people are
used to psi. For those of you
that like metric; we were seeing about a 0.1 -
0.17 kg/cm2 difference
between the boost gauge and the DSBC because of the
kinks in the vacuum
line.
One thing I noticed is that a lot of people use the term "BAR" when
what they
really mean to say is kg/cm2 - there is a difference. To my
knowledge I know
of no automotive gauges that display pressure in BAR, only
kg/cm2 or psi -
someone correct me if I'm wrong.
For those that are
interested here are the conversions:
1 BAR = 1.02 kg/cm2 or 14.5 psi
1
kg/cm2 = .9807 BAR or 14.22 psi
1 PSI = .07031 kg/cm2 or .06895
BAR
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 14:15:05
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: East Coast Gathering 2001,05/04-06 picture pages
For anyone who
was there and hasn't seen these yet I am sure they will be on
the main page
eventually. But until then here are some individual user
pages of
pictures.
Main page:
http://www.geocities.com/ecg2k1Other
pages of pictures:
http://mi3si.org/gatherings/ecg2k1/pictures.htmhttp://www15.brinkster.com/unclesam099/ECG2k1/ecg2k1.htmhttp://ifrag2.topcities.com/aam/http://ifrag2.topcities.com/ecg/-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 13:15:46
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE:Blitz DSBC problems
> I was converting metric (kg/cm2) to
standard (psi) because most people are
> used to psi. For those of
you that like metric; we were seeing about a 0.1 -
> 0.17 kg/cm2
difference between the boost gauge and the DSBC because of the
> kinks in
the vacuum line.
I have a Greddy electronic boost gauge (with sensor
inside the engine
bay), which reads in
kg/cm2 same as the DSBC. Since I
installed the DSBC, its boost reading
has always read
about 0.1 to 0.15
kg/cm2 MORE than the gauge. I do not think that the
vacuum line to
the
DSBC is kinked but could this be the reason for the difference? Or is
the gauge faulty? I set
the DSBC to boost to 1.0 kg/cm2. I've wondered if
I'm actually getting
less boost than I
really am.
Walton C.
Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:15:47
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT probe location
I know that the consensus has been to install
the probes in the exhaust
manifolds before the turbos(ideally 10" from flame
front if I recall.) But,
after reading instructions from Autometers
site, they say to install them
after the turbos.
http://autometer.com/hp/instruction_download/instructions/652e.pdfCould
this be why many are seeing such high EGTs?? Autometers gauges only
go
up to 16-1700deg F. Many are getting much higher
temps.
Thanks,
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 16:32:32
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
We (me and the boys at Denny's
Mufflers) put the 1/2 in. wheel spacers on
my 94 VR4 today. I'd like to tell
you it was real easy, but it wasn't. I
know that it CAN be done simply, but
we couldn't, for two reasons:
1. The left side halfshaft had a cut
dustcover/sleeve, so we had to take
the entire axle out to replace the
cover.
2. The right side wheel bearing came apart, so although it was then
easy to
pull the hub and knock out the old lugs, this is not a
recommended
solution. I'll be getting the wheel bearing repaired at the
dealer under
warranty. Parts had to be ordered, you see.
It LOOKS like
you can do this:
1. Remove caliper and rotor
2. Remove wheel bearing
nut.
3. Remove four bolts on the back of the wheel hub.
4. Knock
back the axle with a hammer until the wheel hub comes loose.
5. Manipulate
the wheel hub so you can drive out the stock wheel studs and
insert the
longer studs.
6. Reassemble.
As I said, we did not do this because
of the problems encountered. This is
the way I've seen stock studs replaced
on my car before, although I am not
positive that you can do this with the
longer studs. Does anyone know?
In any case, both spacers are in. I do
not recommend doing this job
yourself unless you have an entire weekend to
devote to it, or you have had
your front axles/hubs out before and know how
to do all this stuff.
However, it is a relatively simple job for a brake
shop, who does this kind
of work every day.
(Example: when
Denny's mechanic <Perry, the ace front end guy> got the
axle out, he
insisted on taking the constant velocity joint apart so he
could clean and
regrease it. "Mighta got some dirt in there from the torn
dust cover," he
says. "How does it come off the axle?," I asked, all
worried, because
all I could see was ball bearings surrounded by grease.
"Ah, ya just tap it
with a hammer," says Perry. A light tap, and out it
came, slick as a
whistle. If it was me, I'd still be on the net asking you
guys how to
take the sucka apart.)
GOOD NEWS MAYBE!!
For all of you who are
considering an upgrade to Brad's Big Red kit on a
1st gen car (91-93), you
MAY NOT need to buy 94 and up wheels! Please
check with Brad, of
course, but those spacers put a full half inch of
distance between the inside
of the wheel spokes and the Porsche caliper. It
MAY BE that you can install
spacers instead of buying new wheels. At $100
plus labor, that's a whole lot
less money than four 94+ wheels and a set of
tires. I don't have a 1st
gen, so I don't know where the clearance problem
occurs, but I recall someone
saying that the Big Reds ALMOST fit a 1st gen,
but have only a credit card
width of clearance. If so, maybe spacers are
the answer.
It should be
easy enough to check: Anyone that has a 2nd gen car with
spacers could
attempt to mount 1st gen wheels. If the spacers allow 1st gen
wheels to fit
over a 94+ brake caliper, they should easily fit over the Big
Reds. If there
is anyone in Iowa who wants to try it, give me a shout.
In the meantime,
PLEASE DO NOT ASSUME SPACERS WILL WORK UNTIL BRAD OR
SOMEONE ELSE ON THE LIST
VERIFIES IT.
OFF TOPIC
I wandered next door to the cycle shop,
because I saw two Yamaha 650s being
worked on (these are based on the old
Triumph 650cc Bonneville design, and
have always been one of my favorite
bikes). One had a 1985 license plate. I
asked the mechanic what the deal was,
and he said that people are getting
motorcycles out of storage, where they
have been for the past 15 years
(like this one), because of high gas
prices. He has a very brisk business
now in starting up old motorcycles and
putting them back on the road. A
sign of the times, eh?
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
Big Reds, 1/2 in. spacers, Porterfield stock rotors.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of team3s V1
#486
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