- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:08:44
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Undertray
I like the idea of a splitter but methinks some real expertise
is required to get
it right.
Overheat issue --- I had my car at Willow
Springs over the weekend and
did not notice any perceptible increase in
temperature ---- track side
temps were in the mid 80's. My question is ----
do you have all of the
undertrays in place in front of the radiator. My 93
Stealth has an opening
just under the front bumper cover that directs air
into the radiator from the
bottom as well as the front of the
car.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
I am getting ready to build a sheet metal undertray to protect the
>
intercoolers from road crud damage. I took off the plastic undertray
>
because it was getting battered and torn because my car is so low, and I
>
removed the front air dam, motor and mechanism.
> 1. Build a chin
spoiler or splitter that extends straight out about 3-4
> inches, enough
to slice off people's ankles that are walking by. This would
> give me
considerable downforce. It would also help to direct air directly
> into
the radiator opening.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:23:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Undertray
No..if he were going for pure
aerodynamics..experience would be needed.
But since hes just looking to
split for the sake of turbulence..should be
hard at all.
If I were to
do it, Id make the lip out in front sheet metal, but rolled
on that outside
edge. Could look cool.
On Tue, 1 May 2001, Jim Berry
wrote:
> I like the idea of a splitter but methinks some real
expertise is required to get
> it right.
>
> Overheat issue
--- I had my car at Willow Springs over the weekend and
> did not notice
any perceptible increase in temperature ---- track side
> temps were in
the mid 80's. My question is ---- do you have all of the
> undertrays in
place in front of the radiator. My 93 Stealth has an opening
> just under
the front bumper cover that directs air into the radiator from the
>
bottom as well as the front of the car.
>
> Jim Berry
>
=====================================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
> > I am getting ready to build a sheet metal undertray to protect
the
> > intercoolers from road crud damage. I took off the plastic
undertray
> > because it was getting battered and torn because my car
is so low, and I
> > removed the front air dam, motor and mechanism.
>
> > 1. Build a chin spoiler or splitter that extends straight
out about 3-4
> > inches, enough to slice off people's ankles that are
walking by. This would
> > give me considerable downforce. It would
also help to direct air directly
> > into the radiator opening.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 16:27:31
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels
I can't remember where I got this link but has anybody
seen this guys setup?
<
http://www.geocities.com/Amkreadgto/Hybrid.html>
Particularly,
I'm wondering about the wheels and tire sizes. He lists 18X8.5
& 18X9.5
Super Advan SA3R rims (with 245/40ZR & 275/35ZR tires).
I love the
black rims but could do without the red accent. Anybody familiar
with these?
Is it OK for our cars to run these two different tire sizes?
When I run these
two sizes through the tire calculator, they are very close
but not
exact.
If this is a list member's car, please email me off list as I have
some
other questions not so technically related.
- --
Paul/.
95
black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 22:20:50
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Undertray
>If I were to do it, Id make the lip out in
front sheet metal, but rolled
>on that outside edge. Could look
cool.
>
The fabricator suggested the rolled edge
too.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 21:28:15
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: race
day tip
An equipment saving tip I picked up from the some Viper
drivers
while at Willow Springs ---- to protect the front of their cars
while
driving at high speeds at open track events they cover the
portions
of the car at risk with clear vinyl shelf covering. The sticky back
shelf
liner gets a little tattered over the course of the weekind but I
was
told it peels off eaisly and cleans up with soap and water. Worth
a
try if you want to protect the front of your car from rock damage.
It's
probably too late for my car --- the front bumper cover is pretty
beat up,
but, when I get it repainted I'll keep it in mind.
I'd try it out on a
small area, leave it on for a few days and then
remove it. They said the
stuff sold at almost any hardware store
is all that's
needed.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 21:42:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: race day tip
www.invinca-shield.comTough as
nails.
On Tue, 1 May 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
> An equipment
saving tip I picked up from the some Viper drivers
> while at Willow
Springs ---- to protect the front of their cars while
> driving at high
speeds at open track events they cover the portions
> of the car at risk
with clear vinyl shelf covering. The sticky back shelf
> liner gets a
little tattered over the course of the weekind but I was
> told it peels
off eaisly and cleans up with soap and water. Worth a
> try if you want to
protect the front of your car from rock damage.
> It's probably too late
for my car --- the front bumper cover is pretty
> beat up, but, when I get
it repainted I'll keep it in mind.
>
> I'd try it out on a small
area, leave it on for a few days and then
> remove it. They said the
stuff sold at almost any hardware store
> is all that's needed.
>
> Jim Berry
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 00:36:04
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Undertray
are you saying that the piece of plastic lip that
wraps around the front
just under the bumper is important
for the
radiator.?? the thing that you scrape all tthe time when you
pull
in too close and you brush it on the parking concrete slabs?? mine
was
cracked and i removed the entire thing.. is that a bad thing?
is my
radiator hurting because of this?
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> I
like the idea of a splitter but methinks some real expertise is required to
get
> it right.
>
> Overheat issue --- I had my car at Willow
Springs over the weekend and
> did not notice any perceptible increase in
temperature ---- track side
> temps were in the mid 80's. My question is
---- do you have all of the
> undertrays in place in front of the
radiator. My 93 Stealth has an opening
> just under the front bumper cover
that directs air into the radiator from the
> bottom as well as the front
of the car.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =====================================================
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
> > I am getting ready to build a sheet metal undertray to protect
the
> > intercoolers from road crud damage. I took off the plastic
undertray
> > because it was getting battered and torn because my car
is so low, and I
> > removed the front air dam, motor and
mechanism.
>
> > 1. Build a chin spoiler or splitter that
extends straight out about 3-4
> > inches, enough to slice off people's
ankles that are walking by. This would
> > give me considerable
downforce. It would also help to direct air directly
> > into the
radiator opening.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 05:05:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: race day tip
Hi Jim,
I just wear my bra. Never had a
problem with it.
When I got out of the gravel pit on turn 12
Road
America, I did have to refasten the lower left
section.
Some
of the Porsche guys do have a clear substance
professionally applied.
May drivers do cover their
exposed headlights with duct tape. You can
create a
real mean looking Porsche with red and yellow duct
tape
especially when it's in my mirrors about 2" from
my bumper.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com> wrote:
> An
equipment saving tip I picked up from the some
> Viper drivers
>
while at Willow Springs ---- to protect the front of
> their cars
while
> driving at high speeds at open track events they
> cover the
portions
> of the car at risk with clear vinyl shelf covering.
> The
sticky back shelf
> liner gets a little tattered over the course of
the
> weekind but I was
> told it peels off eaisly and cleans up
with soap and
> water. Worth a
> try if you want to protect the
front of your car
> from rock damage.
> It's probably too late for
my car --- the front
> bumper cover is pretty
> beat up, but, when I
get it repainted I'll keep it
> in mind.
>
> I'd try it out
on a small area, leave it on for a
> few days and then
> remove it.
They said the stuff sold at almost any
> hardware store
> is all
that's needed.
>
>
Jim Berry
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 09:37:24
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Tuning Apexi AFC
Good morning..
With the list of mods I
have shown below,
does anyone have any tips to help guide me in the
right
direction in tuning my AFC.. I thought
i heard something about tuning a
few extra hp
out of it due to having a bov, and higher boost.
At the
moment, the AFC is completely in default mode.
Mark
1992 Green
Stealth
Apexi Indigo AVCR (@15psi)
Apexi Indigo AFC
K&N
Filter
Magnecore Wires
HKS Super Sequential Blow Off Valve
3" Metal
Y-Pipe
RSR 2" spring lowering application
Cusco Rear Strut Bar
Greddy
Turbo Timer
Full ATR Exhaust - ATR Downpipe, Stright Test Pipe (no cat) ,
Full Cat
back dual tips.
Hose Techniques - Engine Bay Super White Hose
Dress up
1 Bad Ass Attitude
(Soon : New Paint Job Restoration, 3000gt
Body Parts / Hybrid , Supra
Fuel Pump )
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 09:45:52
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Gauge
Problems
I have heard that the oil pressure gauge and turbo gauges on our
cars can be
wildly inaccurate at times. I was planning to pull apart
my dashboard to fix
a few things, so I figure it may be time to upgrade the
gauges. Does anybody
know if the gauges are a complete one-piece set,
or can I replace them
individually? Also, has anyone replaced the stock
gauges with aftermarket
sets, if so, what type. I was thinking of
going Cyberdyne digital for temp
and oil pressure, with a 180-270 sweep for
the manifold pressure.
Thanks for any advice.
Thor Holth
(1991 R/T Turbo - 5 weeks and counting!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:10:07
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
race day tip
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Christian
<
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
> Hi
Jim,
>
> I just wear my bra. Never had a problem with
it.
>
> When I got out of the gravel pit on turn 12 Road
>
America, I did have to refasten the lower left
> section.
My
concern with the bra is getting something under it --- your
foray into the
gravel pit would seem a good way to get a
boulder or two under it.
And what, prey tell, were you doing in a gravel pit anyway?
I suppose
someone oiled the track in front of you.
Jim
Berry
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:32:27
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
race day tip
Sounds like the stuff John Christian was talking about ----
probably
pricey but it's a full time solution. The shelf covering on the
other hand
is definitely cheap and you can pick it up on the way to the track
and
apply it in 5 minuets. It is of course, nowhere near as nice
cosmetically.
The shelf covering looks, and is, temporary ---- if looking
cool is your
goal then it's not for you. If on the other hand, you're a cheap
pragmatist
like me then a nice paisley print shelf paper is all that's
required.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
>
www.invinca-shield.com>
>
Tough as nails.
>
> On Tue, 1 May 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > An equipment saving tip I picked up from the some Viper
drivers
> > while at Willow Springs ---- to protect the front of their
cars while
> > driving at high speeds at open track events they cover
the portions
> > of the car at risk with clear vinyl shelf covering.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:47:58
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Undertray
On my 93 TT without active aero, there is an opening just in
front of the
small air dam under the car that directs air into the radiator
from the
bottom. It has a deflector that directs air to the bottom half of
the radiator.
If you're not having a cooling problem it's probably not an
issue --- I have
no way to judge it's effectiveness but manufactures don't
add parts to the
car because their bored, someone thought it
necessary.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
>
are you saying that the piece of plastic lip that wraps around the front
>
just under the bumper is important
> for the radiator.?? the
thing that you scrape all tthe time when you
> pull in too close and you
brush it on the parking concrete slabs?? mine
> was cracked and i
removed the entire thing.. is that a bad thing?
>
> is my radiator
hurting because of this?
>
>
> Jim Berry wrote:
> >
> > Overheat issue > > undertrays in place in front of the
radiator.
My 93 Stealth has an
opening
> > just under the front bumper cover that directs air into the
radiator from the
> > bottom as well as the front of the car.
>
>
> > Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 15:46:41
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tuning Apexi AFC
>Good morning..
Morning ???? It's
4PM here ;-)
>With the list of mods I have shown below,
>does
anyone have any tips to help guide me in the
>right direction in tuning my
AFC.. I thought
>i heard something about tuning a few extra
hp
>out of it due to having a bov, and higher boost.
No use for the
AFC at all. You have stock injectors and if you increase
fuel you will run
into fuel cut (as the value jumps out the table) When you
lower the amount
of fuel you run into danger for knock and retarded timing.
Furthermore,
small changes are corrected by the ECU within several miles.
The AFC is not
of use without 440cc injectors.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 10:15:16
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Spacer source
For those of you who inquired privately (Scott and
Mikael, so far) and
anyone else who wants to know, I got my spacers from
www.carparts.com.
They are buried on page
7 of 16 in the H&R vendor pages. With the $30 off
discount, it was
$84 a set. (The assholes at nascarparts were going to
charge me
$132!!) The part number is 30656715.
Mikael: I'm not sure what the
spacing is. 15mm or about a half-inch, I
guess. It's all they have,
anyway.,
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 10:35:04
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spacer source
Hey Rich,
No plug for you buddy
Curt???? Rich used my $30 off $100 coupon at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
There is also a 5mm spacer that H&R
sells too for our car.
(10656715) You can search for either part number on
the search feature
on the CarParts website.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Spacer source
>Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 10:15:16
-0500
>
>For those of you who inquired privately (Scott and Mikael,
so far) and
>anyone else who wants to know, I got my spacers from
www.carparts.com.
>They are buried on
page 7 of 16 in the H&R vendor pages. With the $30
off
>discount, it was $84 a set. (The assholes at nascarparts were
going to
>charge me $132!!) The part number is
30656715.
>Mikael: I'm not sure what the spacing is. 15mm or about a
half-inch, I
>guess. It's all they have,
anyway.,
>
>Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:47:08
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: race day tip
I run a bra on mine (car that is) and held on
just fine in the gravel pit.
Nobody oiled the track for me but my mind was
trying to ask something just
the time when my feet were supposed to be
operating the brakes. Not quite
coordinated yet to do two things at
once (stop, chew gum, stop chewing,
resume walking).
No rocks were
under the bra as it is held on quite nicely (two clips in the
front of the
engine bay, two hooks on either side of the sides of the engine
bay, three
clips down each side, and about 6 clips across the bottom). Had
some
rocks up in the wheels and calipers though and that is why I got the
black
flag so that I wouldn't distribute these rocks all over the track.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:10 AM
To:
JCZooM@iname.com;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc: Tim;
kurt zobel; Jose Soriano; George Kuo; damon Rachell; Bruce;
Geoff
Mohler
Subject: Re: Team3S: race day tip
My concern with the bra is
getting something under it --- your
foray into the gravel pit would seem a
good way to get a
boulder or two under it.
And what, prey tell, were
you doing in a gravel pit anyway?
I suppose someone oiled the track in front
of you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 10:58:07
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spacer source
Was that YOUR $30 off coupon? It looked like
something they offered to all
new accounts. Sorry pal, I woulda been happy to
give you a plug.
Rich
At 10:35 AM 5/2/01 -0500, Curt Gendron
wrote:
>Hey Rich,
>
>No plug for you buddy Curt???? Rich
used my $30 off $100 coupon at:
>http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
There is also a 5mm spacer that H&R
>sells too for our car.
(10656715) You can search for either part number on
>the search
feature on the CarParts
website.
>
>later,
>Curt
>http://www.mn3s.org
>
>>From:
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>Subject:
Team3S: Spacer source
>>Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 10:15:16
-0500
>>
>>For those of you who inquired privately (Scott and
Mikael, so far) and
>>anyone else who wants to know, I got my spacers
from
www.carparts.com.
>>They are
buried on page 7 of 16 in the H&R vendor pages. With the $30
off
>>discount, it was $84 a set. (The assholes at nascarparts
were going to
>>charge me $132!!) The part number is
30656715.
>>Mikael: I'm not sure what the spacing is. 15mm or about a
half-inch, I
>>guess. It's all they have,
anyway.,
>>
>>Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 09:40:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: race day tip
If you get a rock that big..it wont much matter
on the windscreen.
I dont think youd want anything on the glass
anyway..
On Wed, 2 May 2001, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> Hey, this
might work on the window too, just in case some rocks get thrown up.
> I
have not found (haven't looked) for tear off sheets for windows.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim
Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:28
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
Tim; Zobel, Kurt; Jose Soriano; Jim Berry; George Kuo; damon
> Rachell;
Bruce; Geoff Mohler
> Subject: race day tip
>
>
> An
equipment saving tip I picked up from the some Viper drivers
> while at
Willow Springs ---- to protect the front of their cars while
> driving at
high speeds at open track events they cover the portions
> of the car at
risk with clear vinyl shelf covering. The sticky back shelf
> liner gets a
little tattered over the course of the weekind but I was
> told it peels
off eaisly and cleans up with soap and water. Worth a
> try if you want to
protect the front of your car from rock damage.
> It's probably too late
for my car --- the front bumper cover is pretty
> beat up, but, when I get
it repainted I'll keep it in mind.
>
> I'd try it out on a small
area, leave it on for a few days and then
> remove it. They said the
stuff sold at almost any hardware store
> is all that's needed.
>
> Jim Berry
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 09:02:51
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Cam
shafts needed
Hi,
I need to buy a set of used cam shafts for my
3000GT VR-4 93.
Are the shafts from all years the same?
Sellers
please contact me privately on
vr4@bahnhof.seRegards,
Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 11:16:57
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Best
forged pistons?
Here's a text I have saved this answer regarding the ROSS
pistons. I can't remember who wrote this. BTW I use Ross pistons in my car
together with Pauter rods.
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu-
--------------------------
ROSS custom 3000GT pistons. These pistons
were made using the latest advances in piston technology. This is NOT a 3000
stock piston casting or copy, it is a proprietary casting that looks oval when
viewed. The ring pack has been moved down to keep the rings away from the
combustion chamber,since the rings have been moved down toward the pin, oil
support rails are included. 4 anti detonation grooves have been cut into the top
of the piston to help quell detonation. The piston rides on a slipper skirt
forging for minimum contact area on the cylinder walls to decrease friction, and
the forging was made in such a way to make the piston as light as possible
without having to use the milling machine to carve out the excess weight. The
material 2618T-61, and machining they use also allow you to run a little tighter
piston to wall clearance, so you don't sound like a diesel truck when you are
running. The piston pins are $$ costly 0.866 Super Duty 4340 taper wall pins
that are full!
floating and come with Spirolox, along with the pistons
being machined with lock removal indents.
The pins have already been
precision cut, fit, and chamfered, their already to go. The ring set is not
standard issue 3000GT either, they are Total Seal rings made for these pistons,
and will NOT fit a stock 3000GT piston. The compression height remains, the
stock 8.0-1 as we feel that this is optimal compression for turbocharged motors,
and the top of the piston is baby smooth with no sharp edges to help
eliminate the chance of "hot spots".
Background on ROSS:
ROSS leads
the way, with the latest in equipment and quality personnel to make a superior
piston. This is their mission; "Make the best piston money can buy" regardless
of price. They are not cheap, and they don't care, or wheel and deal on pistons.
They do very little advertising, as they don't need to, they are swamped ALL the
time with orders. One of the biggest differences between ROSS and companies like
JE, Arias, etc., is that ROSS has machinery that is stae of the art, and much
more up to date and they are constantly investing, to make sure that they stay
ahead of the competition.
Their quality control checks are second to
none, and all the pistons are checked by optical laser, nothing gets past them.
One of the biggest thing that makes ROSS stand apart in respect to the piston
manufacturing is their "gang cutter" this is a machine that cuts the ringlands
into the piston.
The machine they have holds the piston in such a way
that when the cutting tool contacts the piston to cut the ringlands , it is held
in place VERY rigidly, and the ringlands are cut perfectly warp free, and
totally flat. JE, Arias and the rest have yet to buy one of these machines. You
ask what does this mean to me? Well, imagine this: if the ring grooves are
totally warp free and straight, the rings lay flat on the piston ringlands, this
is especially critical when you are really revving the motor because the rings
are being pulled up and down, and if the rings don't have a completely flat
surface to put pressure on, they tend to flutter, because they do not have the
full contact area. When the rings start to flutter to much, this is when rings
start to break. Also another by product of totally flat ringlands, is better
sealing of the rings.
These pistons are not to be confused with lesser
forged pistons that are merely stock piston copies, using stock pins and stock
specs etc.These are the best custom pistons money can buy. Sure you can buy
cheaper pistons, but that's what you get....
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
<SNIP>
Is there any difference in design that makes one set better than the
other? <SNIP>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 11:20:06
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Cam
shafts needed
Hi,
I need to buy a set of used cam shafts for my
3000GT VR-4 93.
Are the shafts from all years the same?
Sellers
please contact me privately on
vr4@bahnhof.seRegards,
Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:14:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Complete Ultimate Tune-up?
GReddy Profec B? Do you also
have a real boost guage installed in the car?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
[SMTP:DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 9:03
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Complete Ultimate Tune-up?
>
> Hi everyone, I just bought a 92 RT/TT a couple
weeks ago and it will
> be
> on the road in a month. The
engine was rebuilt 15k miles ago and I'm
> looking
> to do a
complete tune-up for the car before I take it out for the first
> time.
> I want to change ALL the fluids, clean everything that needs
cleaning,
> replace everything that needs replacing, and fix anything
that may need
> fixing.
> Does
anyone have a recommended tune-up schedule that they can write
> out
> for me or shove me in the right direction? I'd like to have a
list of
> everything to do on the car to get it up to perfect condition
so I can
> just
> check it off as I got along. I have pretty
good knowledge of the
> naturally
> aspired stealth and am just
learning about the turbocharged engines and
> all
> their little
features. I'll be getting a shop manual in the next couple
> of
> weeks and I'll have enough time to take a lot out of the engine
>
compartment
> to get to little things that need fixing/replacing.
> Also, while we're on the topic of taking
engines apart. I want to
> upgrade to larger turbos, put in larger
fuel injectors, and upgrade
> anything
> that will be required to
put out ~600HP. All the upgrades will have to
> wait
> a
couple of months so I can get enough money, but I'd like to be able to
>
price everything out and figure out how much I will be spending and
when.
>
> Is there a particular order that
I should be upgrading? For example,
> I
> know that I need to
upgrade to larger fuel injectors to have larger turbos
>
> and in
order to upgrade fuel injectors, I'd need a new ECU, or something
> along
those lines.
> OK, simply put, did someone
put together a diary of what they did to
> their car, how they did it,
and when they did it?
> Thanks for any help,
> Paul
>
92RT
> 92RT/TT
> Custom
Exhaust
> Porterfield Rotors & RS4
pads
> K&N
FIPK
>
> P.S. I found a greddy protec
something or other under the dash. This a
> boost controller,
correct? It has a knob measured in bars, so I'm
> guessing
>
it is, but without driving the car, I don't know how I can test it to
see
> if
> it's working.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 15:55:52
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tuning Apexi AFC
well i guess im just assuming it
is.
because my aftermarket apexi boost guage
hits 15.. its probably just
hitting 14.5 tho.
my avcr is set at 1.0 bar and is still learning
the
duty..
yes im on stock turbos.
i spiked up to 20 about 3 times
before i got my duty right
and i have no problems. i had fuel cut on one
occasion because it ran up
rpms
so fast i didn't shift in time, but then i
just drove it nice for a
while and got
the avcr set right , and now its
allways just hitting 14.5-15 every time
i slam
it to the
floor.
"Berrios, Victor L" wrote:
>
> I notice your
Apexi BC at 15psi.
> Are you running with stock turbos?
> I believe
the safe max. you can run on stock turbos is 14psi
>
> Vic
>
'96 VR-4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Hindelang
[mailto:hindelan@pilot.msu.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:37
AM
> To: Stealth Net; Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Tuning Apexi
AFC
>
> Good morning..
>
> With the list of mods I
have shown below,
> does anyone have any tips to help guide me in
the
> right direction in tuning my AFC.. I thought
> i heard
something about tuning a few extra hp
> out of it due to having a bov, and
higher boost.
> At the moment, the AFC is completely in default
mode.
>
> Mark
> 1992 Green Stealth
>
> Apexi
Indigo AVCR (@15psi)
> Apexi Indigo AFC
> K&N Filter
>
Magnecore Wires
> HKS Super Sequential Blow Off Valve
> 3" Metal
Y-Pipe
> RSR 2" spring lowering application
> Cusco Rear Strut
Bar
> Greddy Turbo Timer
> Full ATR Exhaust - ATR Downpipe, Stright
Test Pipe (no cat) , Full Cat
> back dual tips.
> Hose Techniques -
Engine Bay Super White Hose Dress up
> 1 Bad Ass Attitude
>
>
(Soon : New Paint Job Restoration, 3000gt Body Parts / Hybrid , Supra
>
Fuel Pump )
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 15:56:51
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Tuning Apexi AFC
where are you gonna do this?
will they
tune everything? how long does this take?
and is it costly? we
gotta have an AWD dyno !
i hear thats tough to come by. .although someguy in
detroit
just moved here from texas owns an AWD dyno. i think some dsm
guys
know him.
Huey Martin wrote:
>
> take it to a
dyno and get your whole car tuned is what i would do. i have
> to do
the same thing in about a month. check you local area for dynos on
>
www.dynojet.com>
>
-Huey
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
> To:
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
"Team3S"
> <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:37 AM
> Subject: Tuning Apexi AFC
>
> >
> > Good morning..
> >
> > With the
list of mods I have shown below,
> > does anyone have any tips to help
guide me in the
> > right direction in tuning my AFC.. I
thought
> > i heard something about tuning a few extra hp
> >
out of it due to having a bov, and higher boost.
> > At the moment, the
AFC is completely in default mode.
> >
> > Mark
> >
1992 Green Stealth
> >
> > Apexi Indigo AVCR (@15psi)
>
> Apexi Indigo AFC
> > K&N Filter
> > Magnecore
Wires
> > HKS Super Sequential Blow Off Valve
> > 3" Metal
Y-Pipe
> > RSR 2" spring lowering application
> > Cusco Rear
Strut Bar
> > Greddy Turbo Timer
> > Full ATR Exhaust - ATR
Downpipe, Stright Test Pipe (no cat) , Full Cat
> > back dual
tips.
> > Hose Techniques - Engine Bay Super White Hose Dress
up
> > 1 Bad Ass Attitude
> >
> > (Soon : New Paint
Job Restoration, 3000gt Body Parts / Hybrid , Supra
> > Fuel Pump
)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 08:22:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gauge Problems
If you are talking about the three gauges in
the middle of the dash,
they are one unit. I have pictures and removal
instructions at my web
pages below. The gauges can be replaced individually,
but with
another factory gauge, not an aftermarket one.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-combogauges.htmhttp://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-dashpanel.htmI
am not sure "inaccurate" best describes the oil pressure gauge.
There are no
numbers on the gauge. How do we know if it is telling us
the actual pressure
or not? Maybe someone on this list has installed
an aftermarket gauge that we
can use to "calibrate" our stock gauge.
The truth is oil pressure is not
nearly as important as good flow.
The oil pressure sending unit is "before"
the engine anyway (between
oil pump and oil passages).
Here's a little
web page on oil pressure that some might find
interesting.
http://www.escape.ca/~dbrad/oil_pressure.htmThat
link and over 80 many are on the Tech Page at my web site.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 02, 2001 7:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Gauge Problems
I have
heard that the oil pressure gauge and turbo gauges on our cars
can be wildly
inaccurate at times. I was planning to pull apart my
dashboard to fix a
few things, so I figure it may be time to upgrade
the gauges. Does
anybody know if the gauges are a complete one-piece
set, or can I replace
them individually? Also, has anyone replaced
the stock gauges with
aftermarket sets, if so, what type. I was
thinking of going Cyberdyne
digital for temp and oil pressure, with a
180-270 sweep for the manifold
pressure.
Thanks for any advice.
Thor Holth (1991 R/T Turbo - 5
weeks and counting!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:18:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Complete Ultimate Tune-up?
Welcome to the world of 3S,
Paul.
www.stealth316.com may help
a little.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 30, 2001 8:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: Complete Ultimate
Tune-up?
Hi everyone, I just bought a 92 RT/TT a
couple weeks ago and it
will be on the road in a month. The engine was
rebuilt 15k miles ago
and I'm looking to do a complete tune-up for the car
before I take it
out for the first time. I want to change ALL the
fluids, clean
everything that needs cleaning, replace everything that
needs
replacing, and fix anything that may need fixing.
Does anyone have a recommended tune-up schedule that they
can
write out for me or shove me in the right direction? I'd like
to
have a list of everything to do on the car to get it up to
perfect
condition so I can just check it off as I got along. I have
pretty
good knowledge of the naturally aspired stealth and am just
learning
about the turbocharged engines and all their little features.
I'll
be getting a shop manual in the next couple of weeks and I'll
have
enough time to take a lot out of the engine compartment to get
to
little things that need fixing/replacing.
Also, while we're on the topic of taking engines apart. I want
to
upgrade to larger turbos, put in larger fuel injectors, and
upgrade anything
that will be required to put out ~600HP. All the
upgrades will have to
wait a couple of months so I can get enough
money, but I'd like to be able to
price everything out and figure out
how much I will be spending and
when.
Is there a particular order that I should be
upgrading? For
example, I know that I need to upgrade to larger fuel
injectors to
have larger turbos and in order to upgrade fuel injectors, I'd
need a
new ECU, or something along those lines.
OK, simply put, did someone put together a diary of what they did
to their
car, how they did it, and when they did it?
Thanks for any
help,
Paul
92RT
92RT/TT
Custom
Exhaust
Porterfield Rotors & RS4
pads
K&N FIPK
P.S. I
found a greddy protec something or other under the dash.
This a boost
controller, correct? It has a knob measured in bars, so
I'm guessing it
is, but without driving the car, I don't know how I
can test it to see if
it's working.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:14:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo replacement / repair
Your options and other info,
including where to buy are on my
comprehensive turbo upgrade guide at the
link below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmDo
the work yourself and save $1000, which could be spent toward
15G-class
turbos. Or just have your 9B turbos rebuilt.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-tsg_v10.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
To: "starnet"
<
stealth@starnet.net>; <
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 30, 2001 7:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo replacement /
repair
I just found out that I am going to have to replace/repair both of
my
turbos.
I'm looking for the lease expensive option that will still
be good
quality.
The only option I see right now it Dynamic Racings
DR-500 turbos for
1299 a pair.
Is there a better option
?
Alan
a92rttt@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 17:59:57
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gauge Problems
I think Brian at Gt-pro said the HKS 60mm gauges
can be pushed into the
three openings in the center dash that hold the stock
gauges.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, May 02, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gauge
Problems
>If you are talking about the three gauges in the middle
of the dash,
>they are one unit. I have pictures and removal instructions
at my web
>pages below. The gauges can be replaced individually, but
with
>another factory gauge, not an aftermarket
one.
>
>http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-combogauges.htm
>
>http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-dashpanel.htm
>
>I
am not sure "inaccurate" best describes the oil pressure gauge.
>There are
no numbers on the gauge. How do we know if it is telling us
>the actual
pressure or not? Maybe someone on this list has installed
>an aftermarket
gauge that we can use to "calibrate" our stock gauge.
>The truth is oil
pressure is not nearly as important as good flow.
>The oil pressure
sending unit is "before" the engine anyway (between
>oil pump and oil
passages).
>
>Here's a little web page on oil pressure that some
might
find
>interesting.
>
>http://www.escape.ca/~dbrad/oil_pressure.htm
>
>That
link and over 80 many are on the Tech Page at my web site.
>
>Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
>To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Wednesday, May 02, 2001 7:45 AM
>Subject: Team3S: Gauge
Problems
>
>I have heard that the oil pressure gauge and turbo
gauges on our cars
>can be wildly inaccurate at times. I was
planning to pull apart my
>dashboard to fix a few things, so I figure it
may be time to upgrade
>the gauges. Does anybody know if the gauges
are a complete one-piece
>set, or can I replace them individually? Also,
has anyone replaced
>the stock gauges with aftermarket sets, if so, what
type. I was
>thinking of going Cyberdyne digital for temp and oil
pressure, with a
>180-270 sweep for the manifold
pressure.
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Thor Holth (1991
R/T Turbo - 5 weeks and counting!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 15:38:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gauge Problems
>> I think Brian at Gt-pro said the HKS
60mm gauges can be
>> pushed into the three openings in the center dash
that
>> hold the stock gauges.
That's correct, after the stock
three gauges are removed together.
52-mm gauges will work if the glass covers
of the originals are
retained. There is no practical aftermarket replacement
of gauges
individually (that is, keep the stock coolant temp and oil
pressure
gauges but have an aftermarket boost gauge).
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-combogauges.htmAftermarket
60-mm gauges look pretty sharp in there. Does anyone know
if the stock
senders for the coolant temp and oil pressure can be
used with aftermarket
gauges? Or will the aftermarket senders thread
into the stock sender
locations (maybe with an adapter)?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 02, 2001 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gauge Problems
I
think Brian at Gt-pro said the HKS 60mm gauges can be pushed into
the three
openings in the center dash that hold the stock
gauges.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 17:47:42
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gauge Problems
Thor,
52 mm gauges will fit nicely and look
like they were made to fit the car. I
would recommend a mechanical
boost gauge. Just be sure to connect the hose
properly as you will not
be tearing down your dash very often.
Mechanical water temp can be connected
right next to the stock sensors.
There is an extra plug in the housing next
to the water temp sensors for the
stock gauge and ECU.
Mechanical oil
pressure can be connected where stock oil press. sensor for
stock gauge is
located.
I used the Autometer Phantom line in my car. It is a bit
tricky to
fabricate a bracket for mounting these gauges. The stock
gauges is actually
just one assembly.
I have attached a small
picture. The gauges are fuel pressure (electric),
oil pressure
(mechanical) and water temp (mechanical). The boost gauge is
located on
the A-pillar. I believe this pic.
was taken going down the freeway in
fourth gear.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 02, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Gauge
Problems
> I have heard that the oil pressure gauge and turbo
gauges on our cars can
be
> wildly inaccurate at times. I was
planning to pull apart my dashboard to
fix
> a few things, so I figure
it may be time to upgrade the gauges. Does
anybody
> know if the
gauges are a complete one-piece set, or can I replace them
> individually?
Also, has anyone replaced the stock gauges with aftermarket
> sets, if so,
what type. I was thinking of going Cyberdyne digital for
temp
>
and oil pressure, with a 180-270 sweep for the manifold
pressure.
>
> Thanks for any
advice.
----------------unreadable JPG code
snipped-----------------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#482
*********************