team3s
Monday, April 30
2001
Volume 01 : Number
480
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:15:33 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
RE: HKS EVC IV boost controller question -- more info
Joshua,
Both
my 95 VR4 and my brothers 94 TT have held boost better than what is
depicted
in the excell charts (althought the 0-60 and 1/4 performance
indicate decent
times). The aquisition of data and making of the excell
sheets was so
time consuming that I do not want to do it again unless I make
some major
mods to the car. I like seeing the curves though and not just
the times
that you get at the track.
For the reccord...the mods at the time of
testing were:
94 TT (68,000 miles w/ 120K tuneup done)
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic boost controller.
K&N FIPK
- -MIKE-
95 Red
VR4
>
http://sun.science.wayne.edu/~mraicu/performance_VR4_chart.xls
(127k)
>
> for a more comprehensive excel file with all my data, see
the
> following link. It took a while to make this sheet, and I
made
> it accurate. Please, don't annybody doubt the accuracy of
this
> sheet. These numbers should be comparable to other people's
1/4
> and 0-60 times @ 1 bars. The runs in the file were done on
my
> brother's 94 TT.
>
>
http://sun.science.wayne.edu/~mraicu/perf_94_tt_11-25-00.xls>
(978k) big file-- open it only if you want to see all the data.
> There
are multiple charts of different derivations.
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:31:11
-0500
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 Wing
OK, I've pulled apart the active wing, cleaned, dried
re-lubed and just
about to re-install. How do you get the wing to raise to
the up position
while still in the driveway ? On John Adams web site he shows
the wing in
the raised position sitting in the driveway, is it just by
holding down the
toggle switch for the active aero ?
Thanks!
Eric
Cheek '92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:44:34
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
0 Boost -- Answer
Cyrus,
>would it be ok to set my boost
controller to "0" boost (or close to
>it) for driving around
town?
I have tried to set my Apexi AVC-R boost controller @ 0 bars.
However, I
was not able to make it hold any less than .5 bars. It holds
.5 bars if I
turn the AVC-R off, so my two memmory settings are back to 1
bars and .8
bars (lowest possible setting is OFF @ .5 bars). If anyone
was successful
in setting the bost @ 0 bars, I would like to know
how.
Good thinking, but impossible (I think).
- -MIKE-
95 Red
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:54:42
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear View Mirror Removal
Folks
How do you remove the
screen mounted rear view mirror? Is there a clip or
something fixing it?
Twist which way? Any ideas welcome, I had a look at
mine tonight but could
see no way of getting it off. I really don't fancy
forcing anything or
cracking a screen.
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 14:08:11
-0700
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear View Mirror Removal
George:
There is an allen screw
that holds the mirror plate to
the button that is glued to the glass.
Loosen the screw
and the mirror assembly slides up and off.
Rich
-
-------------------------------------------------------
George Shaw
wrote:
>
> Folks
>
> How do you remove the screen
mounted rear view mirror? Is there a clip or
> something fixing it? Twist
which way?
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 23:06:14
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driven to be Awful (ADMIN WARNING !)
Jim already stated this
... here some add-ons !
1. Always note the topis as OFF TOPIC (OT) when
the content is NOT
technically 3S related !
2. NEVER answer to the
list if the content is oviously OFF TOPIC or marked
so. Keep this stuff
private as you can very easily reply to the sender !
3. Several times, we
told you guys that you should snip off parts of the
original message as we
ALL GOT THEM already.
Hmm, maybe we have to be more clear and direct and
have to send some
important LAST WARNINGS to the people not following the
topic this mailing
list is into !
Roger
for the
Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:37:26
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear View Mirror Removal
Rich
Is the UK different I
wonder as I cannot see an allen screw. Where is it
meant to be, on the bottom
of the plate?
George:
There is an allen screw that holds the mirror
plate to
the button that is glued to the glass. Loosen the screw
and
the mirror assembly slides up and off.
Rich
-
-------------------------------------------------------
George Shaw
wrote:
>
> Folks
>
> How do you remove the screen
mounted rear view mirror? Is there a clip or
> something fixing it? Twist
which
way?
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:47:55
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 0 Boost -- Answer
I always thought that boost controllers
(manual or electronic) could only
raise the boost or lower it back to stock
specs but not lower than stock or
what the wastegate is physically set to
open at.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Mihai Raicu
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 4:45 PM
To:
NassiriC@aol.comCc: Team3S; Mike
Raicu
Subject: Team3S: RE: 0 Boost -- Answer
>>I have tried to
set my Apexi AVC-R boost controller @ 0 bars. However, I
>>was
not able to make it hold any less than .5 bars. It holds .5 bars if
I
>>turn the AVC-R off, so my two memmory settings are back to 1 bars
and .8
>>bars (lowest possible setting is OFF @ .5 bars). If
anyone was successful
>>in setting the bost @ 0 bars, I would like to
know how.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:53:18
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: 0 Boost -- Answer
> >would it be ok to set my boost
controller to "0" boost (or close to
> >it) for driving around
town?
Nonsense, you cannot set a controller to 0 bars !
> I
have tried to set my Apexi AVC-R boost controller @ 0 bars. However,
I
> was not able to make it hold any less than .5 bars. It holds .5
bars if I
> turn the AVC-R off, so my two memmory settings are back to 1
bars and .8
> bars (lowest possible setting is OFF @ .5 bars).
No
chance at all to set 0 bars because the wastegates do not open before
a
presure of about 0.4 bars is applied to the actuators.
> If
anyone was successful
> in setting the bost @ 0 bars, I would like to know
how.
This makes absolutely no sense If you want to safe gas buy a
Toyota Hybrid
or try to get some natural gas (hydrogen) with our cars. Even
more, a turbo
engine is able to get more energy out of the gas on mid rpm
area due to the
high compression in the chamber.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:32:50
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: 0 Boost -- Answer
Michael,
> I always thought that boost
controllers (manual or electronic) could only
> raise the boost or lower
it back to stock specs but not lower
> than stock or
> what the
wastegate is physically set to open at.
>
Yup. That is the reason
I couldn't set the boost any lower than .5 bars (7
psi). That is stock
speck. The scientist in me had to try though since it
was a harmless
experriment.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:28:37
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Buying a new car...little problems...
A little white smoke from a
car that was not started for three weeks does
not sound like a big deal John.
Changing plugs and wires just constitutes
normal maintenance although getting
to the back three plugs is a pain.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:45:32
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 5 Point Harness
Can anyone offer any advise on which type of
harness to use with my stock
seat. I've removed the back seat, but I
havn't installed a roll bar. Any
insight would be much
appreciated.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:55:24
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
0 Boost, a moving seat, and cheap parts
Setting your boost controller to
0 will
drop your boost pressure to around
6 or 7 psi [.4 bar] as set
by the wastegate
acuators. Boost creep could still occur if
the
problem existed beforehand.
Yes - this will save fuel at the expense of
horsepower.
If you want to really maximize fuel efficiency then
stay
out of the turbos completely. In other words, don't
accelerate
so hard as to produce positive boost - use a light throttle
and
drive as a NA V6. BIG fuel savings. But very
slow.
This is how you drive with 0 boost - drive like a
granny.
This method works well - even with large injectors but
it
takes the fun out of owning these cars.
Or as a compromise - reduce
boost settings and drive
the same as usual. You won't be as fast but
still quick AND
save some fuel.
And/or try short shifting if you
normally like to wind her up.
Upshift as soon as possible as long as you
avoid lugging.
Make sure tire pressure is properly set - not too low.
Keep
windows up - reduces drag.
Buy a Honda for a daily driver. :)
- -
tds
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
NassiriC@aol.com <
NassiriC@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, April 29, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: 0 Boost, a moving seat, and
cheap parts
Two quick questions and a recommendation:
1.
After last months discussison about gas mileage, I got to thinking;
In
order to extract maximum fuel economy (premium pump gas is pushing $2.30
in
my area), would it be ok to set my boost controller to "0" boost (or
close
to
it) for driving around town? This would be just for normal
driving -
probably 80% of the time. Of course when I wanted to have
some fun I could
just dial in 15 psi. Would the low boost settings
cause problems over the
long-run? Excessive combustion chamber
deposites? ECU problems? Check
engine light? It seems to me
that running very low boost would dramatically
improve gas mileage and extend
engine life. What do you guys think?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:40:34
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: REPAIRING WATER PUMP
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-300gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 30, 2001 9:39 AM
Subject: REPAIRING WATER PUMP
>
Hi Guys,
>
> My Mitsu water pump sounds roughly and I am sure it
must a bad bearing,
> before I must remove it firstly I must know whether
it can be repaired by
> replacing new bearing.
> If anybody has
experience to change bearing water pump, please let me
know.
> Your
kindly attention will be highly appreciated.
>
> Kindly
regards,
> Ian GTi 16 V
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:44:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cody/SS lines..
Cody:
Didja get those sent off, and at
what 'speed' did they ship?
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:33:14
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 Wing
Eric,
I'm not sure if the
instructions are also on our own FAQ page but I only
have John Adams' page
printed. Mine was inoperable before I started so I
just manually pushed
the "lever"/"clip" thing and raised it up myself then
re-installed it stuck
in the up position.
The only thing I remember is that you have
to install it in the same
position as you removed it or else when you press
the switch it will try to
raise an already-raised wing.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric Cheek
[mailto:echeek@cox-internet.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 16:31
To:
'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: VR4 Wing
OK, I've pulled apart the
active wing, cleaned, dried re-lubed and just
about to re-install. How do you
get the wing to raise to the up position
while still in the driveway ? On
John Adams web site he shows the wing in
the raised position sitting in the
driveway, is it just by holding down the
toggle switch for the active aero
?
Thanks!
Eric Cheek '92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:49:31
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 0 Boost, a moving seat, and cheap
parts
Cyrus,
On my driver's seat (1995 VR-4) it has
two long rods that are threaded
and are used for the power fore/aft
movement. You might have a stripped
section of threads where the seat
slides some. I have a picture of the
driver's seat if you are
interested to see what is on the bottom.
It is real easy to
remove. Two 14-mm nuts in front and two 14 mm bolts
in back.
These are all under plastic covers so pry off the covers first.
Then don't
forget to unplug the two or three connections underneath. A
little
tricky at first but you'll get it. Oh yeah ... the driver's seat is
60
pounds so don't hurt yourself.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
NassiriC@aol.com
[mailto:NassiriC@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 15:36
Another
question: I have a problem with my drivers seat. When I hit the
brakes hard, I can feel it slide forward about a 1/4 of an inch, and when I
accelerate hard, it moves back about the same. Does anyone else have
this
problem, it's not a big deal, but it's very annoying, and I'd
like to fix
it. Before I tear out my drivers seat I'd like to see if
anyone else has
found an easy fix for this. I have the premium 10-way
adjustable power
seats
(2 knobs, one on the center console for lateral
and lumbar support and one
on
the left lower cushion for forward/back,
up/down and tilt adjustment).
Thanks in advance for your
help
Cyrus
'97 Glacier Pearl White VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:52:45
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: 0 Boost -- Answer
Good point - I figured I wouldn't be able
to achieve 0 boost, but I also
thought I could go a lot lower then .5
bar. Almost all internal waste-gate
turbos have an inherent minimum
boost@X rpm for a given engine combination,
because of the physical limitations of the size of the waste gate. If
your
internal waste gate can only handle X cfm and your exhaust is pushing
X + 1
cfm then some of that airflow will spin the turbine blades, and
you get some
boost. Did I get that right?
I'm sure someone with
much more knowledge than I have can shed some light on
this subject .....
i.e. If your waste gates are stuck wide open on a 6G72
motor with 9B
turbos, what is the maximum boost you will see at what
rpm?
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 01:01:20
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Race seat installation
I finally got the chance to get my race
seat installed. That of course is
to say that I really only supervised
my friend doing most of the hard work.
I will get pix out to Jeff Lucius' or
the Team3S page for those who are
interested or email privately. Not
much for installation steps really but I
can give out some dimensions to
someone if they are interested. Jim Berry
will also have a new design
when he gets finished and Mikael just started
with a big sheet of steel and
formed it to shape.
Easy steps:
1. Remove seat.
2A. (IF wanting to
re-install stock seat ...) Mount seat-mounting bracket to
stock seat mounting
locations
2B. (If NOT wanting to re-install stock seat ...) Mound race seat
brackets
to stock seat mounting locations (good luck)
3. Install seat to
bracket.
Hard steps:
- - Getting the "rails" or "bracket" with correct
height and size
- - Getting Grade 8-equivalent hardware (Grade 8 is for
English stuff and
Grade 12.9 is the equivalent in Metric -- this is an
important one to
remember)
- - Getting a friend who has a MIG welder in
his garage (I have such a friend)
- - Leaving about 12 hours free time (this
was our first race seat
installation)
- - Figuring out how to retain a
stock seat belt mounting point since race
harnesses are not DOT-approved and
you can get cited for not wearing your
seatbelt otherwise
- - Determine
correct position for feet-to-pedals, up and down, and tilt
(harder than you
think)
Anyone who has removed the driver's seat will notice that it is
not a square
underneath. The floor slopes uphill toward the centerline
of the car, the
outside holes are farther part than the inside holes (the
shape that the
stock mounting holes make is more like a trapezoid), and there
is little
space to work in once installed.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- - Big Reds
- - Autopower Race Rollbar
- - 5-point Simpson
harness
- - Sparco Evo race seat (newly installed)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:20:56
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
I had the pleasure of
inspecting those two crushed Iridium plugs. The prong
seemed to have
little nick marks in them like they where being hit by
something. That
would support a foreign item in the cylinder. But I
believe Matt did
look through the spark plug well with a pen light or
something, and the
piston looked fine??
Matt, I also agree that those iridium plugs aren't a
good choice for our
cars. They seemed lighter in weight than the stock
plugs. Maybe those
prongs are made of a softer metal and couldn't hold
under the heat and
pressure?? I'd stick with stock NGK plugs or the
copper plugs (BKR7ES) I
have a set of those laying around if you want
to try them.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
>Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 00:45:28
-0500
>
>
>Checked all three coil packs, and all three are
functional. Decided to
>remove the plenum to get at the back bank of
plugs. The two plugs towards
>the throttle body had their electrodes
crushed against the ceramic portion
>of the plug. The middle
cylinder seems a bit worse than the TB-side
>cylinder. Examining the
plenum interior with a light doesn't show any
>scoring marks or anything
out of the ordinary. Examining the pistons
>through the plug hole
doesn't show anything either - no piston scoring
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:13:54
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: SS lines..
A quick caution here ---- there was a recall on brake
lines for the first
gen cars, make sure you have the new lines not the
original. I think
one or more of the front lines was too short and subject to
damage
under certain circumstances. I have a set of lines but I know
the recall
was never done on my car so the lines are
incorrect.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
That settles it. Cody's lines will be the models for all of
em.
>
> Good work!
>
> We'll see what the 8pc lines will
cost compared to single..but we will do
> 2pc.
>
> On Fri, 27
Apr 2001, cody wrote:
>
> > Well - no differences in the CAPS
program. So - unless anyone can find any substantial info that there is
a
difference - mine are already boxed up (well - partially - I have to take
the other 4 upper portions off the car tomorrow
morning.)
>
>
> > Thanks all, and I will get them shipped to Porterfield
tomorrow morning.
> >
> > -Cody
> >
> >
#-----Original Message-----
> > #From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> #[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jack
> >
#Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:58 PM
> > #To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
#Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
#Subject: Team3S: Re: SS lines..
> > #
> > #
> > #I
have a set for a 91 VR-4 that i can donate, and since SS lines were one
>
> #of the next things on my list, i'm in on the buy too. Somebody that
has
> > #CAPS could find out how many different versions there are, and
relay that
> > #info the the list, or whoever is taking the
donations....
> > #
> > #Wayne
> > #
> >
#
> > #
> > #At 04:07 PM 4/27/01 , Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> #>Cody has a base SL.
> > #>
> > #>There many be
differences in these lines, and he is investigating.
> > #>
>
> #>So we may still need someone to pony up some other lines.
> ---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
>
California, USA
>
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:49:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: SS lines..
Yep, he has the new longer ones I think he
sayd.
On Mon, 30 Apr 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
> A quick caution
here ---- there was a recall on brake lines for the first
> gen cars, make
sure you have the new lines not the original. I think
> one or more of the
front lines was too short and subject to damage
> under certain
circumstances. I have a set of lines but I know the recall
> was
never done on my car so the lines are incorrect.
>
> Jim Berry
>
====================================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
> > That settles it. Cody's lines will be the models for all of
em.
> >
> > Good work!
> >
> > We'll see
what the 8pc lines will cost compared to single..but we will do
> >
2pc.
> >
> > On Fri, 27 Apr 2001, cody wrote:
>
>
> > > Well - no differences in the CAPS program. So -
unless anyone can find any substantial info that there is a
> difference -
mine are already boxed up (well - partially - I have to take the other 4 upper
portions off the car tomorrow
> morning.)
> > >
> >
> Thanks all, and I will get them shipped to Porterfield tomorrow
morning.
> > >
> > > -Cody
> > >
>
> > #-----Original Message-----
> > > #From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> > #[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jack
> >
> #Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:58 PM
> > > #To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> #Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> #Subject: Team3S: Re: SS lines..
> > > #
> > >
#
> > > #I have a set for a 91 VR-4 that i can donate, and since SS
lines were one
> > > #of the next things on my list, i'm in on the
buy too. Somebody that has
> > > #CAPS could find out how many
different versions there are, and relay that
> > > #info the the
list, or whoever is taking the donations....
> > > #
> >
> #Wayne
> > > #
> > > #
> > > #
>
> > #At 04:07 PM 4/27/01 , Geoff Mohler wrote:
> > > #>Cody
has a base SL.
> > > #>
> > > #>There many be
differences in these lines, and he is investigating.
> > >
#>
> > > #>So we may still need someone to pony up some other
lines.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:54:52
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Crushed spark plug electrodes?
Broken ring lands could be the culprit ---
as mentioned a leak down or better
yet a bore scope would help clarify the
problem. When Roger overboosted
his engine and damaged the pistons it still
ran all right [ I think ] but he had
oil in places it didn't
belong.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
Okay guys, my car had some problems today. Now its my turn to ask
for
> everyone else's advice. :-)
>
> Driving the car
hard, through the lower three gears at about 17 psi of
> boost, 93 octane
fuel, water injection spraying away, etc, at the top of 3rd
> gear when I
shifted the car just stopped pulling. Before that instant,
>
everything was great. My A/F ratio meter was pegged full-rich
(.9v+). I
> wasn't doing anything different than I've done
before.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 11:19:24
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
> Broken ring lands could
be the culprit --- as mentioned a
> leak down or better yet a bore scope
would help clarify
> the problem. When Roger overboosted his engine and
damaged
> the pistons it still ran all right [ I think ] but he
had
> oil in places it didn't belong.
I'm not seeing oil in strange
places (yet), but I will keep my eyes open. I
plan to do a leakdown
test on it as soon as I can. If I'm able to get
someone to look at it
with a boroscope, will they be able to see broken ring
lands or would they be
looking for evidence marks on the cylinder walls?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:27:24
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
You may want to also check
what the thermal resistance is of the anti sieze
compound. It may be
that even a thin layer has high thermal resistance
which could contribute to
the problem.
>> A much happier scenario we can hope for would be
the
>> following. Did you notice that the spark plugs with
ground
>> electrode damage were loosely torqued? Spark plugs rely
on
>> good torque for heat conduction into the cylinder
head.
>I didn't really notice, but it didn't seem to take much to get
the plugs
>out. There was anti-sieze compound on all the plugs'
threads. I'd say it
>took maybe 5 ft-lbs of pressure to get them
loosened, which is much lower
>than what I normally do when I torque
plugs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 18:09:06
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
> Broken ring lands could
be the culprit --- as mentioned a leak down or
better
> yet a bore
scope would help clarify the problem. When Roger overboosted
> his engine
and damaged the pistons it still ran all right [ I think ] but
he had
>
oil in places it didn't belong.
Jim is right, but at this point, only a
compression and leakdown test would
show the truth ! My car runned ok, as the
pistons were fine at the top and
no plug was crushed at all. But then I went
to the dyno as I felt less power
and indeed there was a significant loss of
more than 34hp and a strange
curve above 5500.
Unfortunately, I also
had a customers car where the engine overheated (still
not found the cause
for this !), #6 plug broke and hit a hole into the
piston ! Everythign can
happen if something like fails but the compression
test will show
then.
BTW, it sounds very, very strange that a shop put in two Irridiums
and
therest stock plugs ... somebody didn't finished the job I'd say
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:05:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 Wing
You just turn ignition on and push the toggle switch
to the left to force
the spoiler into the up position. You don't have
to hold it down.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Cheek
[SMTP:echeek@cox-internet.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 3:31
PM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject: Team3S: VR4 Wing
>
> OK,
I've pulled apart the active wing, cleaned, dried re-lubed and just
>
about to re-install. How do you get the wing to raise to the up position
>
while still in the driveway ? On John Adams web site he shows the wing
in
> the raised position sitting in the driveway, is it just by holding
down
> the
> toggle switch for the active aero ?
>
>
Thanks!
> Eric Cheek '92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:19:23
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
I always use anti-seize on
plugs and have NEVER had a problem with them
backing out or loosening
torque. If anything, the antiseize compound is
going to provide better
heat transfer, because it''ll increase the effective
area in contact.
Sure theoretically, any interface causes a temperature
drop, but this stuff
is metallic, not an insulator.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Watkins, Jim [SMTP:jim.watkins@terayon.com]
> Sent: Monday, April
30, 2001 11:27 AM
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
'Joe Gonsowski'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug
electrodes?
>
> You may want to also check what the thermal
resistance is of the anti
> sieze
> compound. It may be that
even a thin layer has high thermal resistance
> which could contribute to
the problem.
>
> >> A much happier scenario we can hope for
would be the
> >> following. Did you notice that the spark
plugs with ground
> >> electrode damage were loosely torqued?
Spark plugs rely on
> >> good torque for heat conduction into the
cylinder head.
>
> >I didn't really notice, but it didn't seem
to take much to get the plugs
> >out. There was anti-sieze
compound on all the plugs' threads. I'd say
> it
> >took
maybe 5 ft-lbs of pressure to get them loosened, which is much lower
>
>than what I normally do when I torque plugs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:30:10
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch trouble not going away
While I had the master cylinder out
I checked all the clutch vacuum hoses. I
did not see any problems with them.
After I adjusted the pedal throw
Saturday
morning the system worked 500%
better than it ever did. It has never been so
easy to shift gears! I guess
there is a lot to be said for adjusting the
clutch
engagement region by
twisting that rod ...
> check the clutch booster hose (hoses).
I've replaced the clutch booster,
> but everybody seems to think that was
a waste of money, and you know how
> much trouble it is - double the
hassle changing the master cylinder. The
> vacuum hose may be
leaking - OR CRIMPED SHUT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:33:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
> I'm not seeing oil in
strange places (yet), but I will keep my eyes open.
Depends on the amount
of boost you run on !
> plan to do a leakdown test on it as soon as I
can. If I'm able to get
> someone to look at it with a boroscope,
will they be able to see broken
ring
> lands or would they be looking
for evidence marks on the cylinder walls?
No, a boroscope is only to
check the pistons top. You cannot use it and turn
the engine to let the
piston go down. If there is low compression in a
chamber then the heads must
be lifted anyways. Look at my pictures under
www.rtec.ch - engine problems of the 3000GT. There
ayou can see that the
piston is in perfect shape o nteh top bad had broken
parts on the bottom as
well as a broken rings and the landring (the part in
between the rings). The
customers engine has a nice hole in the piston and I
can tell you
compression was very low :(
But we don't want to paint
black. Maybe you'll be lucky and the Irridiums
just broke and nothingn is
damaged ! Let us know teh results ... good luck
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:51:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BFG Comp T/A R1 clearance at Tirerack.
It took me a little
while to check this out, but since I need 4 new tires
for my '93 VR4, I
looked. Yes, the BFG Comp TA g-force R1 and R1A's are on
sale at Tire
Rack for $120 each, that is, in the track (competition)
version. The
street version is $162. I was told that g-force production is
halted,
so these tires are just sitting in the warehouse drying out and
getting
brittle. They could just as well be on my car drying out and
getting
brittle. I don't think I've seen a better price for Z rated
tires.
Anybody know something bad about these?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Oskar [SMTP:osk@mediaone.net]
> Sent: Friday,
April 06, 2001 8:48 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: BFG Comp
T/A R1 clearance at Tirerack.
>
> More specifically it is the comp
T/A g-force R1.
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:21:57
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
Thanks to all who have
provided advice and words of wisdom about my car's
current "issues".
Here is a link to a picture of the plugs:
http://206.147.106.20/deadplugs.jpgI
noticed when taking the pictures the nice ridge of what appears to be
melted
aluminum on the top of the ceramic insulator, so I'm thinking that
the
pistons probably broke the ring lands and some of the material is now on
the
plugs. The electrodes seem to have been hit by objects
(flying
aluminum?).
So.... What pistons should I get?
:-(
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:13:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best forged pistons?
Okay, so I am to the point where I feel I
need to contemplate what pistons I
want to drop into my Spyder. If the
compression tests don't go well (as I'm
assuming they won't) then I'll need
to start tearing down the block.
What do most people use for enhanced
pistons on these cars? I've seen
Jeff's pictures of the Venolia pistons
and the Ross pistons that Dynamic
Racing and GTPro sell. Is there any
difference in design that makes one set
better than the other? Are
there other pistons that I should consider? Is
it worth considering
replacing the rods as well since I'll already have the
motor torn
down?
I'm way out of my area of expertise on this one.... This is
the first time
I've had internal engine damage on any of my cars. I've
burned down
snowmobile cylinders, but that's a "little" easier to work
on.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#480
*********************
