team3s
Friday, April 27
2001
Volume 01 : Number
477
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:33:51 -0400
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Buying a car in LA region CA, need some help...and sorry for the
nontechnical question
Hello everybody,
First of all, I apologize
for the non technical question, but I did not
know how else to reach some of
the stealth/3000gt owners from CA.
I am moving to Palo Alto, CA in early
June for a 3 month stay, and have
figured out that it is too expensive to
ship a car from Michigan to
California (~$2000 round trip). Thus I
decided to look for a car to buy
for the summer. As I looked throughout
CA, I found a good deal (on the
surface) in Sylmar, CA 91342. In the
past 5 years, I have bought a 93
Base Stealth, which was mine, then my
brothers, and now my mom's; I then
bought my current car, a 94 Yellow TT; and
a year ago, my brother
upgraded from his 93 Base Stealth a 95 Red VR-4.
I know these cars very
well, and that is why I wanted be loyal to our
cars.
I found a 91 TT that on paper, seems very nice; I also did my
homework
with the dealer where the car was serviced, and with my
insurance
company, and everything looks good. I have been talking to a
3SI member
from the area for about a week in trying to go see the car, but it
has
been hard to synchronize between everybody's busy schedules, and thus
I
still am missing the visual impression of the vehicle. I do not want
to
pass up this opportunity, especially since I think it is priced very
low
from the way the car looks on paper. If anyone can help me in
seeing
the car and taking it for a test drive in the next couple of
days,
preferably before the weekend is up, I would greatly appreciate
it.
I can be contacted through email, but if you prefer a phone number,
my
cel is 734-657-3343.
Sincerely,
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
&
Mihai Raicu
95 Red VR-4
&
Margareta Raicu
(my mom)
93 Red Stealth N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:44:48
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Question??
Prime them? No I didn't I just
lube'd them up with oil and dropped them
right in. The manual made no mention
of priming them first. How do I go
about priming them. Did I mess them up and
in need of new ones?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 4:13 PM
To:
'Michael Bulaon';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Question??
> Is this ok, or is something
wrong with brand new lash
> adjusters I just put in. According to the
manual not
> being able to move them is a normal condition and
>
that if I can move them, they are in need of replacement.
Did you prime
them with oil before installing the new ones?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:51:45
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Question??
> Prime them? No I didn't I just
lube'd them up with oil and
> dropped them right in.
You can prime
them by dipping them in a bucket of oil and
squeezing/releasing them until
the air is expelled and they are filled with
oil.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:54:42
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Question??
Does this need to be done to brand
new lash adjusters?
Also it looked like they were already primed being
that they were all oiled
up straight out of the packaging.
One other
thing, in my first post I mentioned that only the intake side lash
adjusters
could be pushed but not the exhaust ones. How do I prime the
exhaust side
lash adjusters if they don't move when I push them?
Michael
Bulaon
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 5:52 PM
To:
'Michael Bulaon';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Question??
> Prime them? No I didn't I
just lube'd them up with oil and
> dropped them right in.
You can
prime them by dipping them in a bucket of oil and
squeezing/releasing them
until the air is expelled and they are filled with
oil.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:03:18
-0400
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Buying a car in LA region CA, need some help...and sorry for the
nontechnical question
Hello again,
I wanted to thank you for those
that responded so quickly to my cry for
HELP. I just wanted to let the
list know that I already have two volunteers
to see the car in the next day
or so. If any others wnat to see the car and
are close by, let me know
and I can put you in contact with my 2 other 3SI
members and that way you can
all go together to see the car. Once again, I
want to thank everyone
for all the help that has been offered to my brother
(95 Red VR-4) and to
myself. Thanks again.
John Raicu.
94 Yellow TT
Mihai
Raicu wrote:
> Hello everybody,
>
> First of all, I
apologize for the non technical question, but I did not
> know how else to
reach some of the stealth/3000gt owners from CA.
>
> I am moving to
Palo Alto, CA in early June for a 3 month stay, and have
> figured out
that it is too expensive to ship a car from Michigan to
> California
(~$2000 round trip). Thus I decided to look for a car to buy
> for
the summer. As I looked throughout CA, I found a good deal (on the
>
surface) in Sylmar, CA 91342. In the past 5 years, I have bought a
93
> Base Stealth, which was mine, then my brothers, and now my mom's; I
then
> bought my current car, a 94 Yellow TT; and a year ago, my
brother
> upgraded from his 93 Base Stealth a 95 Red VR-4. I know
these cars very
> well, and that is why I wanted be loyal to our
cars.
>
> I found a 91 TT that on paper, seems very nice; I also did
my homework
> with the dealer where the car was serviced, and with my
insurance
> company, and everything looks good. I have been talking
to a 3SI member
> from the area for about a week in trying to go see the
car, but it has
> been hard to synchronize between everybody's busy
schedules, and thus I
> still am missing the visual impression of the
vehicle. I do not want to
> pass up this opportunity, especially
since I think it is priced very low
> from the way the car looks on
paper. If anyone can help me in seeing
> the car and taking it for a
test drive in the next couple of days,
> preferably before the weekend is
up, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
> I can be contacted through
email, but if you prefer a phone number, my
> cel is
734-657-3343.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> John Raicu
> 94
Yellow TT
>
> &
> Mihai Raicu
> 95 Red
VR-4
>
> &
> Margareta Raicu (my mom)
> 93 Red
Stealth N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:55:37
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Drive car w/o driveshaft?
Hello all...
I'm finishing up my 5-6
speed conversion, and would like to test the
tranny before I buckle
_everything_ back up.
Can anyone confirm/deny if it is ok to drive the
car WITHOUT the
driveshaft intact?
Thanks so much!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:27:24
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: piston
slap
What are the thoughts on a newly rebuilt motor that has piston slap
even
after the car is warmed up and it happens only under load.The shop
told
me that they only had to hone the block a little to get what
JE
recomended. If my sound is indead piston slap what will happen if
I
continue to drive it. I am not about to tell my wife I need to
spend
more money on my car!
rushvr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:07:57
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Drive car w/o driveshaft?
It won't work. With no load on the rear,
the viscous coupling will simply
slip. I've spoken with a gentleman who
simply tried to get his car further
up the driveway sans transfer case (and
thus, driveshaft) and the car barely
moved 10 feet.
Jeff V.
1991
ESX Hybrid
jeffv@1nce.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Stanton
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 7:56 PM
To: Team3S
Stealth
Subject: Team3S: Drive car w/o driveshaft?
Hello
all...
I'm finishing up my 5-6 speed conversion, and would like to test
the
tranny before I buckle _everything_ back up.
Can anyone
confirm/deny if it is ok to drive the car WITHOUT the
driveshaft
intact?
Thanks so much!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:28:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Drive car w/o driveshaft?
I wouldn't do it! You would
probably get the front end getting zero
power, and the rear spline for the
driveshaft spinning away like crazy.
My only experience in this area is
when I had the driveshaft out of a '75
buick many years ago, and started it
up just for the hell of it. It was
kind of cool to see the engine
revving away, with the speedo hovinging
around 30 MPH with the car sitting
there! But in general this is not a
good thing to be doing.
On Thu, 26 Apr 2001, Ken Stanton wrote:
> Hello
all...
>
> I'm finishing up my 5-6 speed conversion, and would like
to test the
> tranny before I buckle _everything_ back up.
>
> Can anyone confirm/deny if it is ok to drive the car WITHOUT
the
> driveshaft intact?
>
> Thanks so much!
>
>
Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:32:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch replacement parts
this looks like it should cover
it. Now I've seen it all, you can get
clutch parts for a japanese car,
in GERMANY or all places, for 1/2 what
the local dodge dealer charged
me!
Be aware that if your flywheel needs milling, that you are limited to
only
taking off a hair, I think it was 10 one-thousandths of an inch.
There
was a TSB on it somewhere which I have never been able to find.
So make
sure that if the flywheel goes to a machine shop that they know
this,
because it would be a real bummmer to have to tear everything apart
to
correct it after the fact. I have heard others here say that the
symptoms
of over-milling the flywheel are that your bearing squeals away
like
crazy.
Good luck,
Dave
On Thu, 26 Apr 2001, Jim
Matthews wrote:
> I need to identify all of the parts necessary to
replace the clutch in my
> '94 R/T TT with a stock unit to be installed by
a local shop here in
> Germany.
www.mitsupartsdirect.com is currently
offering 25% off and reduced
> shipping, and they provided the following
quote:
>
> MR111650 Disc $65.29
> MD742801 Cover
$100.91
> MB837549 Bearing $31.56
>
>
> Seems
reasonable... are there any other parts I need or should consider
>
replacing while they're in there? I may have them replace my synchros
while
> they're at it, at least if it's any cheaper to do it at the same
time (I
> already have the synchros).
>
> Thanks!
>
> - --
> Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super
Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830
Battery
> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff=
SPHvy)
> Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,
354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 22:37:10
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Drive car w/o driveshaft?
Do you think it would be OK to do it
with the wheels up off the ground? I just
want to make sure it shifts
ok..
thank you SO MUCH!
I love this stuff...
Ken
Jeff
VanOrsdal wrote:
> It won't work. With no load on the rear, the
viscous coupling will simply
> slip. I've spoken with a gentleman
who simply tried to get his car further
> up the driveway sans transfer
case (and thus, driveshaft) and the car barely
> moved 10
feet.
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 ESX Hybrid
>
jeffv@1nce.com>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Ken Stanton
> Sent:
Thursday, April 26, 2001 7:56 PM
> To: Team3S Stealth
> Subject:
Team3S: Drive car w/o driveshaft?
>
> Hello all...
>
>
I'm finishing up my 5-6 speed conversion, and would like to test the
>
tranny before I buckle _everything_ back up.
>
> Can anyone
confirm/deny if it is ok to drive the car WITHOUT the
> driveshaft
intact?
>
> Thanks so much!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91
Pearl White RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 00:29:45
-0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <
Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: piston slap
Not an expert on this but you should probably
have a leakdown compression
check done. If the cylinders were honed the
proper amount, maybe the rings
did not fully seat. Whatever the case, the
shop should fix the problem free
of charge unless it is something completey
seperate of the work they did....
doubtfull.
Hoser
- -----
Original Message -----
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 26, 2001 5:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: piston slap
>
What are the thoughts on a newly rebuilt motor that has piston slap even
>
after the car is warmed up and it happens only under load.The shop told
>
me that they only had to hone the block a little to get what JE
>
recomended. If my sound is indead piston slap what will happen if I
>
continue to drive it. I am not about to tell my wife I need to spend
>
more money on my car!
> rushvr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 09:38:59
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: piston slap
>Not an expert on this but you should probably
have a leakdown compression
>check done. If the cylinders were honed the
proper amount, maybe the rings
>did not fully seat. Whatever the case, the
shop should fix the problem free
>of charge unless it is something
completey seperate of the work they did....
>doubtfull.
I just like
to second Jose's advice. If it is really slap then relatively
low
compression will show this. Let the shop do a leak down test on ALL
cylinders to make sure everythign is ok in this area. Unfortunately, the
problem occurs only when warmed up but the fronts should then already show
a sign of leaking.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:36:49
+0200
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Heel-Toe Shifting
>>The LAST thing you want to do is use the engine
to brake the car.
Well, I DO agree with you.....on a race track, and if
you have 100% fadeless
brakes.
However, there ARE situations where you
DO have brake fade.
Going down a nice Swiss Alps Mountain Pass with a lot
of hairpins, or having
to repeteadly slow down on the german
Autobahn.
You have as well to keep in mind that the "slam the brakes" is
indeed one of
the MOST effective way to brake....but is convenient ONLY on a
race track,
'cse other drivers are EXPECTING you to do so.
Do that in
a dense traffic....and it's a de-facto instantaneous collision.
There are
as well circumstances where you WANT the car to slow down the way
YOU decide,
and to bypass a stupid electronic guizmo.
The ABS might prevent you from
stopping on snow, but properly applied,
engine braking WILL allow you to do
it (ahem....do NOT try this without a
proper instruction,
please)
>>Remember that brake pads and rotors are much less
expensive than a clutch,
>>transmission and motor.
Kinda
agree.....but only to a certain point.
When done properly, Heel and Toe will
SAVE the clutch....here again, I
repeat...when done properly
!!
>>But none of this is needed in a modern car with
synchros.
Synchros.....what synchros....in a VR4 ????
you mean, these
emmental-cheess parts in out transmission that keep failing,
and because of a
stupid german-company-decision implies that we have to
change the complete
gearbox ?
IMHO, this alone is a good excuse to H&T every time
:-)
>>The only reason to blip the throttle is to match engine speed
with car
>>speed so you don't get a lurch when you release the
clutch.
Yup, correct
>> You can accomplish the same thing by
judiciously releasing the clutch at
the right
>>time, and being in
the proper gear.
Correct as well
>> Besides, if you are
hammering the brakes to where they are bouncing off
the ABS, it
>>doesn't matter how hard you drop the clutch, because that
little
lurch will have no >>effect.
Nope nope and nope !!!
Do that
on rain, or snow, and you will discover that you can "engine-lock"
your
wheels
(but do not redline.....)...at this point, ABS is
irrelevant..
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:55:04
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heel-Toe Shifting
At 11:36 AM 4/27/01 +0200, H. Le Hir
wrote:
>>>The LAST thing you want to do is use the engine to brake
the car.
>
>Well, I DO agree with you.....on a race track, and if
you have 100% fadeless
>brakes.
All my comments on braking and
downshifting apply to race conditions only
with race pads, and not on ice or
snow. Driving on the street is totally
different.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 07:25:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drive car w/o driveshaft?
I'm glad Ken brought this subject
up. For those of you not familiar
with our AWD system, I have an illustrated
guide at my web site.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-AWD.htmOn
the CD/VCU page I show how power can be transfered from the
trany
intermediate shaft to the output shafts. Just for clarification,
the
driveshafts attach the differentials to the wheels. The
propeller
shaft (3 pieces) attaches the transfer case to the rear
diff.
We had this discussion on 3SI and did not reach a concensus.
My
thoughts are that the CD/VCU does not care if the prop shaft
is
connected or not **as long as** the center output shaft spins
freely
and at the same speed as the front output shaft. In fact one
3SI
member drove his car like this for a while.
Jeff, I don't
understand your comment about the VCU "slipping". Why
would this happen and
how? A properly functioning VCU "locks" the
front and center shafts together
if their rotating speeds differ.
Otherwise it is a passive device. Resistance
(or opposing force on a
shaft) is not required to make the VCU "operate".
Also, are you sure
your friend did not have a problem with the CD/VCU and
this is why
the car would not move?
Power paths for center output
shaft (to transfer case)
1. inner ring gear on CD case
2. outer pinions to
inner pinions (planet gears)
3. inner pinions and outer pinions to planetary
carrier (VCU outer
shaft/plates)
4. planetary carrier to center output
shaft
Power paths for front output shaft (to front diff)
1. inner ring
gear on CD case
2. outer pinions to inner pinions (planet gears)
3. inner
pinions to sun gear (VCU inner shaft/plates)
4. VCU inner shaft to front
output shaft
If the VCU inner and outer shafts rotate at different speeds
above
some threshold, then the silicone fluid expands when it heats
(just
like silicone DOT 5 brake fluid does) because of "shear" friction
of
the fluid and the plates (which are attached to the inner and
outer
shafts). The expanded fluid locks the internal plates together and
so
the center and front output shafts. If one shaft can turn much
faster
than the other (slipping?), then the VCU is broken.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: "Team3s Tech List"
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Ken Stanton"
<
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday,
April 26, 2001 7:07 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drive car w/o
driveshaft?
It won't work. With no load on the rear, the
viscous coupling will
simply slip. I've spoken with a gentleman who
simply tried to get
his car further up the driveway sans transfer case (and
thus,
driveshaft) and the car barely moved 10 feet.
Jeff V.
1991
ESX Hybrid
jeffv@1nce.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Stanton
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 7:56 PM
To: Team3S
Stealth
Subject: Team3S: Drive car w/o driveshaft?
Hello
all...
I'm finishing up my 5-6 speed conversion, and would like to test
the
tranny before I buckle _everything_ back up.
Can anyone
confirm/deny if it is ok to drive the car WITHOUT the
driveshaft
intact?
Thanks so much!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:33:50
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Where to get Porterfield cryo treated rotors??
Jeff Mohler
has these as well as Porterfield pads, Hawk Blue pads, Motul
race brake
fluid, etc. Contact him for more information. I ordered all
the
above from him recently and was absolutely pleased with the
service.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate ... and
new
cryo-treated front Rotors, rear Porterfield pads, and Motul 600 brake
fluid
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 1:24 PM
To:
Starnet Mailing List (E-mail); Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S:
Where to get Porterfield cryo treated rotors??
All -
My stock
rotors are warped pretty badly, and I'm thinking that rather than
get them
turned I might want to upgrade to aftermarket rotors. After
reading the
archives the Porterfield cryotreated seem like the way to go
(although I'm
not sure about slotted/crossdrilled/plain). I remember seeing
something
about a discount on the Porterfield rotors...who do I contact for
prices and
info?
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 10:37:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Where to get Porterfield cryo treated rotors??
Speedtoys
(Geoff Mohler) sells Porterfield products to us at a great
price. Check out
my web page below for his prices.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
"Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
"Team3S
Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 27, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: Where to get Porterfield
cryo treated rotors??
All -
My stock rotors are warped pretty
badly, and I'm thinking that rather
than get them turned I might want to
upgrade to aftermarket rotors.
After reading the archives the Porterfield
cryotreated seem like the
way to go (although I'm not sure about
slotted/crossdrilled/plain).
I remember seeing something about a discount on
the Porterfield
rotors...who do I contact for prices and info?
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 10:51:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Where to get Porterfield cryo treated
rotors??
*sniff*
I just feel the love guys...
:^)
On
Fri, 27 Apr 2001, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> Speedtoys (Geoff Mohler) sells
Porterfield products to us at a great
> price. Check out my web page below
for his prices.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
To: "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
"Team3S
> Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 11:23 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Where to get
Porterfield cryo treated rotors??
>
>
> All -
>
> My stock rotors are warped pretty badly, and I'm thinking that
rather
> than get them turned I might want to upgrade to aftermarket
rotors.
> After reading the archives the Porterfield cryotreated seem
like the
> way to go (although I'm not sure about
slotted/crossdrilled/plain).
> I remember seeing something about a
discount on the Porterfield
> rotors...who do I contact for prices and
info?
>
> Thanks,
> - Brian
- ---
Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:31:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SS lines..
What is the approx. cost people are getting for SS
brake line sets for
3S's?
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:19:22
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SS lines..
At 01:31 PM 4/27/01 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>What is the approx. cost people are getting for SS brake line sets
for
>3S's?
Mine was included in the cost of the Big Red kit from
Brad Bedell.
Rich/old poop
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 16:18:50
GMT
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject:
Team3S: Tuning car by injectors??
Everyone,
For the past few days
I have been pondering how to make my car run safer. Just
to remind
everyone, these are the mods to my (and my brothers) car:
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK Air Filter
Apexi Boost Gauge
Greedy EGT Meter (front bank)
I know I need a fuel pressure gauge and
or an A/F meter, but short of those 2
new gauges, I think I can still safely
tune my car. Here's how I think it can
be done:
Monitor the IDC
(injector duty cycle and tune the car in such a way so that the
IDC never
exceeds a particular threshold (ie. 90%). This would mean that I
would
keep the boost @ 1.0 bar in the lower RPM (probably up to 4000 RPM) and
then
slowly decrease the boost to 0.65 bars @ 7000 RPM. These numbers are
tentative as I haven't done any test runs yet.
+ Boost in bars marked
with
* IDC (Injector Duty Cycle) in %
1.0 bar
+++++++++++++++
100%
IDC
+
0.9
* * + * * * * ****
90%
*
+
0.8
*
+
80%
*
+
0.7
*
+
70%
*
++++
0.6
*
60%
RPM 2K
3K 4K 5K
6K 7K
I know some people have said not to run the
injectors above 80% for long times,
so 90% IDC is my safety threshold unless
I hear otherwise from many of the
experts off the list. Running the
car @ 1 bars reaches the IDC of 100% fairly
quickly (don't remember the
exact RPM). Runing the car @ 0.8 bars still
reaches an IDC of 100%,
but later in the RPM band. So, what that means to me
is that I have to
turn the boost down in the higher RPM range.
What do you people
think? Is this going to be a safe and effective way to tune
one of the
2 settings on my car. Will fuel delivery still be a problem? I am
trying to make sure my engine will not run lean at all. When I see
100% IDC
values, I do not know whether the engine is running lean or
not.
Hope to hear from some of you.
- -MIKE-
94 Red
VR4
John - brother
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Michigan
-
---------------------------------------------
This message does not
necessarily reflect the views
or opinions of the WSU Library
System.
Visit us on the web at
http://www.lib.wayne.edu/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:23:49
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SS lines..
The goodridge set from Stillen was about $200 in
1999
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 1:32
PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: SS lines..
What is the approx. cost people are getting for SS
brake line sets for
3S's?
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#477
*********************