> ---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
>
California, USA
>
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 18:51:43
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Razo pedals
I have the aluminum ones and there is not enough space
between the gas and
the brake pedal. Not really a problem for street
driving, but sometimes
when autocrossing.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: "Team 3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Razo pedals
>
Anybody out there running Razo pedals? I'm looking at the
>
magnesium/aluminum, carbon fiber or titanium.
>
> Looking for
input...
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
>
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 17:17:03
-0700
From: Ferry Holidjaja <
tetu@surfcity.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Vaporize Core
Hi,
Does anyone knows where can I get the vaporize
core ??
It's the thing for A/C.
My A/C is leaking somewhere, and I just
checked it. The guy said it is the
vaporize core.
Thanks.
-
-Ferry-
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 22:18:35
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear brake proportioning
Is our brake proportioning valve
adjustable? I ask because in 90,000 miles,
I have changed the front
brakes 3x and the rear has never been replaced
ever. My fronts will
warp any time I hit the brakes hard more then 2 or 3
times during the same
couple minutes. I am thinking that maybe the backs
are not doing all
they could be in helping to slow the car down.
Sam
>>
proportioning valve is identical for both '93 and '94. Of course I
would
>> need 2nd generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any
other
problems?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:22:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rear brake proportioning
Nope. What do you mean 'they
will warp'.
If they feel that way every time..they are already
damaged...from the way
you say it one may think its on every set of rotors
you buy.
On Tue, 24 Apr 2001, Sam Shelat wrote:
> Is our brake
proportioning valve adjustable? I ask because in 90,000 miles,
> I
have changed the front brakes 3x and the rear has never been replaced
>
ever. My fronts will warp any time I hit the brakes hard more then 2 or
3
> times during the same couple minutes. I am thinking that maybe
the backs
> are not doing all they could be in helping to slow the car
down.
>
> Sam
>
>
> >> proportioning
valve is identical for both '93 and '94. Of course I would
>
>> need 2nd generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any
other
> problems?
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:49:56
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
Anyone got a recommendation on replacement
pedals that make heel-toe
shifting easier? I can do it with my stock
pedals, but they're pretty far
apart and I definitely can't get a secure grip
on the brake pedal when
"heel-toeing". I'm thinking a wider brake pedal
would make it easier. They
don't have to be pretty, shiny pedals; I'm
interested in function :-)
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
Magnacor KV85, M1
10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
Tein HA Coilovers
(UPS broke 1st set !?!?! 2nd in transit)
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17,
17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:58:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
Heel-toe is overrated.
What type
of racing you do that needs it? Heel-toe is something you take
a year
to learn after youve taken many others to get the racin' part down.
Not
saying dont do it..
On Tue, 24 Apr 2001, Gross, Erik wrote:
>
Anyone got a recommendation on replacement pedals that make heel-toe
>
shifting easier? I can do it with my stock pedals, but they're pretty
far
> apart and I definitely can't get a secure grip on the brake pedal
when
> "heel-toeing". I'm thinking a wider brake pedal would make it
easier. They
> don't have to be pretty, shiny pedals; I'm interested
in function :-)
>
> --Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
> Magnacor
KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
>
Tein HA Coilovers (UPS broke 1st set !?!?! 2nd in
transit)
> SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT
wheels
>
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:48:37
-0700
From: Ferry Holidjaja <
tetu@surfcity.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Vaporize Core
Correction, it calls evaporator core.
Yeah the
guy said that it located inside the dashboard.
Does anyone knows a good shop
in LA area ?
Thanks.
- -Ferry
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Berry
To: Ferry Holidjaja
Sent: 4/24/2001 6:55
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Vaporize Core
Ferry
The choices in
the US are the condenser core [ in front of the radiator
]
or the
evaporator core [ at the fire wall or in the car ]. I don't
have
either,
but you have to have the terminology correct. I would guess
the problem
is
the evaporator where the freon vaporizes from a liquid to a
gas.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ferry Holidjaja <
tetu@surfcity.net>
To: 'Team 3S '
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Hi,
>
> Does anyone knows where can I get the vaporize core
??
> It's the thing for A/C.
> My A/C is leaking somewhere, and I
just checked it. The guy said it is
the
> vaporize
core.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 00:01:51
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
At 08:58 PM 4/24/01 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Heel-toe is overrated.
>What type of racing you do that
needs it? Heel-toe is something you take
>a year to learn after
youve taken many others to get the racin' part down.
>
Hear,
hear! You tell 'em Geoff!
My big size 13s can't heel and toe
anyway. Not enuf room down there.
Besides, with our all-synchro tranny, who
needs it?
I just whomp on the brakes so hard that the ABS engages. As the
speed
decreases I shift down without releasing the clutch until I reach
the turn
in point, then lift off the brake and clutch at the same time so
the
transition is smooth, get back on the gas, and turn in. It also
helps to
stay in higher gears so you don't need to do much downshifting
anyway. At
Road America, I run 3rd and 4th all day, and shift into 2nd only
once, at
Turn 5. At Heartland Park, I run almost all of it in 3rd except for
Turn 6,
which I take in 2nd, and a couple of straights, where I hit 4th. Our
cars
have pretty tall gears, with 3rd good for 100 and 4th good for 125, so
you
don't need to shift very much.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 23:02:08
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors
Very intriguing! I'd like to know
how much the rotors and hats cost as well
as how often they recommend
replacing the hats. Also, like Roger mentioned,
find out if they plate
the steel rotor so it resists rusting.
> Hey guys, check these
rotors out:
>
>
http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:14:09
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
Heel-and-toe is NOT over-rated ... it
is just used in the wrong applications
sometime.
As soon as I get my
Mid-Ohio track report done I'll mention that. I found
out that with
street shoed (size 10) and stock pedals that it is not as much
of a
heel-and-toe as it is placing half my shoe on the brake, half my shoe
on the
gas, and rocking my foot from side to side instead of using my heel
and
toe. Each car is different but many of the basic pedal covers have
the
extension on the bottom right of the brake pedal for just an
occasion.
Your pedals also need to be adjusted to the right height
otherwise you may
press on the brake for an inch and nothing happens.
Or put a pedal cover on
the gas pedal only or brake pedal only. Just be
sure to secure it well as
you don't want it getting stuck under the brake
pedal thus not allowing you
to press the brake fully - just be careful out
there.
With the Big Reds on the car I can stab at the brake pedal and get
good
braking response so many of my heel-and-toe maneuvers at the track was
more
like laying my foot over on the gas pedal while going down the stretch
and
then using my heel to hit the brakes while still maintaining some
throttle
(keeping the turbos spooled up) then let off the gas and I am back
in
business. I've tried several different methods and as long as I have
time
to set it up I am okay. In the emergency situations it is back to
the
standard foot movement though until I get better at it.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001
11:58 PM
To: Gross, Erik
Cc: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Speaking of Pedals...
Heel-toe is overrated.
What type of racing
you do that needs it? Heel-toe is something you take
a year to learn
after youve taken many others to get the racin' part down.
Not saying
dont do it..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:30:24
-0400
From: "Andy's Email" <
acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors
There is a section in the May issue of
Motor trend that list the price for
"The Brake Man" at approx. $3400
for the front. (Hope that's for the set)
Andy
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:21:46
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mid-Ohio Track Report
A bit overdue and probably too long but
here is the report.
April 13-14, 2001 the Allegheny Region Porsche Club
of America,
http://www.pca.org/all/,
held a Driving Event (DE) at the Mid-Ohio Sports
Car Course,
http://www.midohio.com/ which is about 2.4
miles and 15 turns
and near the middle of Ohio (Lexington, OH). This
was my first DE ever so I
was naturally excited and nervous. This time
of year in mid-Ohio is always
a weather gamble. Last year they were
removing snow the day before driving!
I had my car checked by my own
mechanic as to wheel bearings, suspension,
steering, etc. (the things not
easily reachable unless the car is on a
lift). Since this was my first
one I did not want anything breaking at the
track. I arrived for Tech
Inspection the night before and noticed another
VR-4. Hooray.
This was a bone stock circa 1993 VR-4 with a father and son
team driving
it. There was supposed to be an Instructor with a
well-modified VR-4
but I think he was helping to run the event so he was not
able to
drive. It was strange to have one of the cheapest cars in the lot
for a
change. Brand new Carrera 4 cars, 911s, 944s, RS Americas,
etc.
Verrrrrry nice cars. I was happy to be among them. Of course
they look
nice in the lot but how do they run on the track?
The next
two days were the best driving weather of the year: clear, sunny,
mid-60s,
and no rain. I got to the track, swapped out the Porsche pads for
the
Pagid Orange (Brad's Big Red setup), swapped to the 17" wheels and
Yokohama
Advan 032R tires, bled the brakes, and I was ready to go. So off I
went
... to the classroom. Since this is a DE they teach safety,
safety,
safety and many basic skills in the classroom such as in a spin push
both
feet in (clutch and brake) if you have a manual or brake in a straight
line
since the tire can only do 100% of anything (100% deceleration means
no
turning allowed or else you lose some braking power). Good
stuff. I had
already read the book Going Faster by the Skip Barber
Series so I had a few
skills already learned.
Now it is off to the
track for the first of seven on-track runs of about 20
minutes (a little over
200 track miles in two days for seven run sessions).
I met my instructor who
I already knew and he knew a little about my car.
That was where the
similarity stopped. He was a very excellent instructor
even though he
drives a FWD Honda Civic. He appreciated the fact that I had
Big Reds,
a rollbar, and 5-point harnesses. They helped mucho.
I purchased a
commercial video from Mid-Ohio about their track (driven in an
Acura NSX) so
I was trying to remember all I could as well as listen to him
give
instruction in my ear at the same time, concentrate on the track, try
not to
hit the $140,000+ Porsche on the track, etc. I loved all the input
my
brain was getting. Laps 1 and 2 were taken slow to learn the
course.
Laps 3 and on we were on the move and pushing hard.
Stock
suspension did not help in some twisty bits but the Big Reds were a
surprise
to both of us. I had not truly tested them before. They had
new
cryo-treated front rotors, new Pagid Orange pads, new (cheap) brake
fluid,
new SS lines, and the calipers were only a month old. Thanks to
Rich I knew
I could hammer them all weekend without fear of losing any
braking.
Down the backstretch of Mid-Ohio it goes downhill so that helps
to increase
speed. There are cones for 300 feet, 200, 100, and turn-in
that stayed up
all weekend (the other "helper" cones were removed on Saturday
but because
the backstretch was so dangerous at high speeds they left up
these cones).
We initially started braking at 400 feet from 100 mph.
Then 300 feet at 100
mph, then 250 feet. Still had plenty of room to
spare. I knew that my
speed at the end depended on a good launch into
the backstretch.
Since I was in the "D" run group (I for Instructor is
highest, A is highest
student class, then B, C, and D) I had some other
beginners in my group.
They were slow, but some of them were also driving
dad's brand new $80k
Porsche. Some were driving a 25-year old
911. I didn't think all of them
would be fast so I didn't mind the
traffic. It let me slow down and learn
the turns. However,
launching out of the ever-famous Keyhole let me
downshift to second (no
heel-and-toe yet) and rocket onto the backstretch.
I was able to attain
120 mph in 4th gear down the back before braking HARD
at the 300 foot
mark. Talk about a rush. It looks like you are going to
shoot off
the road as it takes a hard 90-degree right but you have to keep
braking,
brake, brake, brake, TURN! The instructor has told me to turn in
late
on all the turns and that will help. Boy was he right. Turn early
and
you end up squirming all over the track. Turn late is the key
here. Wow
those Big Reds grab. And the pads aren't even warmed up
yet either. One
more lap of thrills and the first session is
over. Enough for me to know
the Big Reds work but also to know that my
car is slow out of turns unless I
keep the turbos spooled.
Back to the
garage to check the brake fluid level, oil level, pads, tires,
etc.
Perfect. Now off to class again. Back to the track (adjusting
tire
pressures from John Christian (MAJOR thanks, John) and getting some
advice
on turns from him since he drives a first gen Stealth TT but it is in
the
shop for the time being). More fun this time. More time spent
at higher
speeds. More time hearing the tires squeal and talk to
me. What a blast.
My friend (who signed me up) was the smoothest driver
in our group in his
1991 Honda Prelude Si as he has had a DE before. I
was the fastest car in
our group. This is not a race mind you but as my
times dropped I noticed I
was getting smoother and more comfortable with the
car on the track.
Fastest time in the second run was a 2:03 (with some
traffic mind you).
Chat with more people. Look at the nice
cars. Video some of the other run
groups. Just a nice day at the
track. Other nice cars that were there were
a Lotus Elise, Dodge Viper,
Caterham Super 7, Porsche race car (unknown
model), Audi S4, and then the
slew of nice Porsches just littered
everywhere.
Back to class.
Back to the track. Third run session now. Fastest time was
a 1:59
(almost no traffic). I found that I was able to hit the corners at
5
mph higher speed by launching out of the corners in second gear instead
of
trying to maintain momentum in third. My instructor kept telling me
to turn
tighter but I was already flooring it in third. So I backed it
down to
second and could then modulate the throttle in a turn. Much
more control
that way. Oh, and that 4-cyl Lotus Elise was going just as
fast as the V-10
Dodge Viper. They ran well together. And that
authentic Porsche race car
had a brand new engine and/or tranny and they were
testing it out. He was
turning about a 1:43 ... WITH traffic ... and
not even pushing it hard yet.
Man alive.
The day ended, drive to the
hotel, have dinner, chat and tell stories, hit
the sack, back to the track in
the morning. After my fourth run my
instructor passed me off allowing
me to run solo for the rest of the day
(three more runs). He said he
had been watching and evaluating me the past
couple of runs and felt I was
ready to take it on my own. I did. Near the
end of the run I saw
a nice little black Porsche 944 in front of me. I
wanted to catch him
before the front stretch. I came over the hill and was
gaining on
him. I crested the next hill and thought, "Where did he
go
already?" By the time I had finished the thought I realized that I
had
missed my braking zone.
This was going in to Turn 11 which is an
off-camber (sloping left) turn to
the right. Oops. I brake hard
and in a straight line and run out of road,
put two wheels in the gravel
trap, turn the wheel, get three wheels in the
trap, bump down to second and
let the AWD pull me out. Darn. Brain fade.
That was stupid of
me. I did not concentrate. I watched the corner workers
but they
did nothing. The next lap around I got the black flag.
Heh.
Oops. By the way, the black flag is to bring you in and make
sure
everything is still attached to the car and that you are not dropping
stones
all over the track.
I found that I did not brake as hard and as
late when my instructor was not
with me. No biggie. I was still
able to drive the car home. This was my
first event and I was still
getting used to everything. The second day
ended as we packed our cars
and then the rain started to fall. Perfect
timing and a great
weekend. Another DE is the end of May at Watkins Glen in
lower
NY. I can't wait.
I'm sure I missed something so give a
holler. I can't possibly fit
everything in an email. It is just
an experience to be there and I hope
everyone someday gets to attend a
driving school at a real track like this.
Safety is the biggest key.
This was not a speed event but a controlled
driving school. I learned
lots more about the car than I knew before.
When I was on my own I tried
some more tricks like heel-and-toe, braking
while still on the throttle (to
keep the turbos spooled up), etc. Not
enough to be comfortable with but
I learned more than I can practice on the
street. Like shifting into
second at 60 mph you should NOT let out the
clutch while in the turn.
It's amazing how much the car will lurch on you.
Just like Merritt always
says, "Brake, downshift, turn-in, apply some
throttle, clip the apex, apply
more throttle, turn-out, upshift." Some
cases this meant being at full
throttle at the apex and others it did not.
I did not have the race seat
installed in time and did not bleed through the
Motul 600 racing brake fluid
but these will be in place for the next event.
The harnesses worked
great. At one very hard braking zone on the back
stretch I pitched the
nose so hard forward, hit the brakes so hard, that
either a wheel locked up
or the rear end just got so light that it drifted.
Nothing like having the
back end get squirrelly at 105 mph with your
instructor in the car. I
learned after that how hard and how fast I could
apply the brakes and still
maintain control. Just learning how the brakes
work was worth the price
of admission.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 06:37:28
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Starting/electrical problem...
List,
My 94 Stealth TT has
been acting up lately.
When the vehicle is cool, whenever I try to start
it, it does nothing...well, actually, all the accessories come on, but I get no
sound from the starter at all. I found that if I hold the ignition in the start
position, after about 5 seconds the starter gets juice and the engine turns
over, making a horrible sound, like a grinding noise. After that, the car runs
fine. I've also found that if I remove the key, close the door, and try a few
times, it eventually turns over. When the car is hot, it typically restarts
fine, though there was one instance where I had to do a rolling start.
I
recently replaced the battery with an Optima, as I was having the same problem
before. It has been about 3 months since I installed the new battery. I checked
the voltage, and the delta when the car was running, and everything seems
fine.
Any ideas? Has anyone experienced this
before?
Thanks!
Dan Jett
San Jose, Ca
94 Stealth TT - 87000
miles
- - K/N Intake, Greddy Exhaust, Greddy Type S BOV,
Magnecore 8.5
KVR wires, Gt Pro Polished Y Pipe,
18x8.5 SSR Integral A2's, Nitto NT-555
ZR's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:51:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Razo pedals
I have carbon fiber Razo pedals on my '93
VR4. They were there when I
bought the car. I like the shape of
the brake/accellerator combination:
they make "heel toe" braking easy, if the
pedal heights are adjusted right.
I'm not real pleased with the attachment
method. The pedals are held on with
a couple of pieces of spring steel, which
is good, but they are tightened by
nuts on two studs that end in rivets,
instead of phillips heads, so
adjustment is inconvenient. Also the
studs stick way out under the pedal
and snag shoelaces.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Desert Fox
[SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:38
PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Razo pedals
>
> Anybody out there running Razo pedals? I'm looking at the
>
magnesium/aluminum, carbon fiber or titanium.
>
> Looking for
input...
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT
VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:00:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
Heel-toe is a misnomer anyway. It
is VERY useful for blipping the throttle
while braking to accomplish rpm
matching for a smooth downshift. The trick
is to brake with the left
part of the ball of the right foot and roll the
foot over to push the
accellerator. Adjusting the brake pedal versus gas
pedal height is
important. You want to be able to reach the gas pedal when
the brake
pedal is depressed. Some people have even attached a block of
wood to
the gas pedal, like the kid in the Indiana Jones movie.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001
10:58 PM
> To: Gross, Erik
> Cc: Team3S List (E-mail)
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
>
> Heel-toe is
overrated.
>
> What type of racing you do that needs it?
Heel-toe is something you take
> a year to learn after youve taken many
others to get the racin' part down.
>
> Not saying dont do
it..
>
> On Tue, 24 Apr 2001, Gross, Erik wrote:
>
>
> Anyone got a recommendation on replacement pedals that make
heel-toe
> > shifting easier? I can do it with my stock pedals,
but they're pretty
> far
> > apart and I definitely can't get a
secure grip on the brake pedal when
> > "heel-toeing". I'm
thinking a wider brake pedal would make it easier.
> They
> >
don't have to be pretty, shiny pedals; I'm interested in function :-)
>
>
> > --Erik
> >
> >
------
----------
> > Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> > '95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
> >
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
>
> Tein HA Coilovers (UPS broke 1st set !?!?! 2nd in
transit)
> > SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT
wheels
> >
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html>
> '94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
> >
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> California, USA
>
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:12:08
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Razo pedals
Cut off the tabs with a dremel. I
did. They can sometimes get in the way of pressing any of the pedals ALL
the way down. They did in my car at least.
- -Cody
#I
have carbon fiber Razo pedals on my '93 VR4. They were there when
I
#bought the car. I like the shape of the brake/accellerator
combination:
#they make "heel toe" braking easy, if the pedal heights are
adjusted right.
#I'm not real pleased with the attachment method. The pedals
are
#held on with
#a couple of pieces of spring steel, which is good, but
they are
#tightened by
#nuts on two studs that end in rivets, instead of
phillips heads, so
#adjustment is inconvenient. Also the studs stick
way out under the pedal
#and snag shoelaces.
#
#> -----Original
Message-----
#> From: Desert Fox [SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
#>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:38 PM
#> To: Team 3S
#> Subject:
Team3S: Razo pedals
#>
#> Anybody out there running Razo
pedals? I'm looking at the
#> magnesium/aluminum, carbon fiber or
titanium.
#>
#> Looking for input...
#>
#> --
#> Paul/.
#> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
#> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum
hi exit
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:22:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Razo pedals
Duh! I knew I got my wife that Dremel tool
last Christmas for some reason!
Thanks!
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent:
Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:12 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; Team3S
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Razo pedals
>
> Cut off the tabs with a
dremel. I did. They can sometimes get in the way
> of pressing
any of the pedals ALL the way down. They did in my car at
>
least.
>
> -Cody
>
>
> #I have carbon fiber
Razo pedals on my '93 VR4. They were there when I
> #bought the
car. I like the shape of the brake/accellerator combination:
> #they
make "heel toe" braking easy, if the pedal heights are adjusted
>
right.
> #I'm not real pleased with the attachment method. The pedals are
> #held on with
> #a couple of pieces of spring steel, which is
good, but they are
> #tightened by
> #nuts on two studs that end in
rivets, instead of phillips heads, so
> #adjustment is inconvenient.
Also the studs stick way out under the pedal
> #and snag
shoelaces.
> #
> #> -----Original Message-----
> #>
From: Desert Fox [SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
> #> Sent: Tuesday, April
24, 2001 5:38 PM
> #> To: Team 3S
> #> Subject: Team3S: Razo
pedals
> #>
> #> Anybody out there running Razo pedals?
I'm looking at the
> #> magnesium/aluminum, carbon fiber or
titanium.
> #>
> #> Looking for input...
> #>
> #> --
> #> Paul/.
> #> 95 black 3000GT
VR-4
> #> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:19:42
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Starting/electrical problem...
sounds like the starter is going ---
probably hangs up on the flywheel which make a
grinding rattling sound. As to
why it doesn't turn over right away, not sure, it could be
the starter
solenoid is not moving freely and refuses to move and then refuses to
release
causing the noise.
Starter relay and ignition can cause the no start
problem --- if you have a voltmeter
you can measure battery voltage and see
when the starter is actually
being
activated.
Jim
Berry
============================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 25, 2001 6:37 AM
Subject: Team3S: Starting/electrical
problem...
> List,
>
> My 94 Stealth TT has been
acting up lately.
>
> When the vehicle is cool, whenever I try to
start it, it does nothing...well, actually, all the accessories come on,
but
I get no sound from the starter at all. I found that if I hold the
ignition in the start position, after about 5 seconds
the starter gets juice
and the engine turns over, making a horrible sound, like a grinding noise. After
that, the car runs
fine. I've also found that if I remove the key, close the
door, and try a few times, it eventually turns over. When the
car is hot, it
typically restarts fine, though there was one instance where I had to do a
rolling start.
>
> I recently replaced the battery with an Optima,
as I was having the same problem before. It has been about 3 months
since I
installed the new battery. I checked the voltage, and the delta when the car was
running, and everything seems
fine.
>
> Any ideas? Has anyone
experienced this before?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
Jett
> San Jose, Ca
> 94 Stealth TT - 87000 miles
> - K/N
Intake, Greddy Exhaust, Greddy Type S BOV,
> Magnecore 8.5 KVR wires, Gt
Pro Polished Y Pipe,
> 18x8.5 SSR Integral A2's, Nitto NT-555
ZR's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:21:45
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
>Heel-toe is overrated.
I
learned this on small cars and monocoqes but it seems that my right foot
has
problems with this ;) and I don't do it in the 3k.
Regarding the pedals,
the MOMO SuperTurismo ones are currently my first
choice, haven't found
better ones for racing and dancing shoes (i.e. daly
business). Check them
out at :
http://www.bakerprecision.com/momo7.htmRoger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:34:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mid-Ohio Track Report
Thanks, Darren! Looks like you
had a great weekend!
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Schilberg, Darren [SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
> Sent: Wednesday,
April 25, 2001 8:22 AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S:
Mid-Ohio Track Report
>
> A bit overdue and probably too long but
here is the report.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:29:00
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Speaking of Pedals...
I have the Momo SuperTurismo pedals and foot rest
in both the VR-4 and the Subaru Impreza WRX. They work great and and looks good.
I think I have some pics somewhere on
http://www.3000gt.nu and also at
http://www.3000gt.nu/impreza.htm
/Mikael Kenson
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger
Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
Regarding the pedals, the MOMO SuperTurismo ones are currently my first
>
choice, haven't found better ones for racing and dancing shoes
...SNIP
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:32:43
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
Agreed. It is more of a rolling
sometimes (all pedals in cars are different
as are shoes). I practiced
for a few weeks prior to Mid-Ohio and I was
feeling quite cocky about foot
maneuvers. To my shock, I strapped on my
driving shoes and went to go
step between the gas and brake and let the sole
hit both pedals ... HOWEVER
my foot went to the floorboard. Completely
missed both pedals. My
shoes were skinnier than tennis shoes. Man was I
disappointed. I
had to quickly re-learn the move with thin shoes.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001
10:00 AM
To: 'Geoff Mohler'; Gross, Erik
Cc: Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
Heel-toe is a
misnomer anyway. It is VERY useful for blipping the throttle
while
braking to accomplish rpm matching for a smooth downshift. The trick
is
to brake with the left part of the ball of the right foot and roll the
foot
over to push the accellerator. Adjusting the brake pedal versus
gas
pedal height is important. You want to be able to reach the gas
pedal when
the brake pedal is depressed. Some people have even attached
a block of
wood to the gas pedal, like the kid in the Indiana Jones movie.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:52:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
This is something that you can practice
easily on the street, like by
downshifting when approaching traffic
signals. Flash's point about shoes is
well-taken. When I intend
to practice on the street, I wear canvas "boat
shoes" that are smaller and
give me better pedal feel. Typical tennis shoes
are way too huge.
By the way, my son has size 12.5 feet and he manages to
"heel toe" in his
VR4. I almost broke my ankle trying to do it the wrong
way before he
explained it to me!
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Schilberg, Darren [SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
> Sent: Wednesday,
April 25, 2001 9:33 AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; 'Geoff Mohler'; Gross,
Erik
> Cc: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Speaking of
Pedals...
>
> Agreed. It is more of a rolling sometimes (all
pedals in cars are
> different
> as are shoes). I practiced
for a few weeks prior to Mid-Ohio and I was
> feeling quite cocky about
foot maneuvers. To my shock, I strapped on my
> driving shoes and
went to go step between the gas and brake and let the
> sole
> hit
both pedals ... HOWEVER my foot went to the floorboard. Completely
>
missed both pedals. My shoes were skinnier than tennis shoes. Man
was I
> disappointed. I had to quickly re-learn the move with thin
shoes.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25,
2001 10:00 AM
> To: 'Geoff Mohler'; Gross, Erik
> Cc: Team3S List
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Speaking of Pedals...
>
>
Heel-toe is a misnomer anyway. It is VERY useful for blipping the
>
throttle
> while braking to accomplish rpm matching for a smooth
downshift. The
> trick
> is to brake with the left part of the
ball of the right foot and roll the
> foot over to push the
accellerator. Adjusting the brake pedal versus gas
> pedal height is
important. You want to be able to reach the gas pedal
> when
>
the brake pedal is depressed. Some people have even attached a block
of
> wood to the gas pedal, like the kid in the Indiana Jones movie.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:55:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Interior panel removal instructions
Hi List,
I have
managed to remove just about every panel on the inside of the
'92 TT except
for the ceiling panel and the front seats. Here are
links to instructions for
most of the ones I've done for those
interested. If you wondered where
Mistubishi hid all those computers,
control units, and relays, they're behind
panels all over the inside
of the car. I identify many of them in the
pictures.
The dash is not that big a deal but does take some time (3 to 8
hours
depending on your skill and concentration) and some patience.
I
had a suprise after removing the defroster garnishes. The dash
cover had
separated near the garnish openings, contributing I think
to the cracking
problem we have. I show one way to fix the cover
(defroster garnish
page).
Floor console
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius6/j6-2-floorconsole.htmInstrument
panel
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-dashpanel.htmDefroster
garnish
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-defrgarnish.htmRear
storage area trim panels
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-rearstorage.htmDoor
trim panel
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius6/j6-2-door-panel.htmQuarter
trim panel
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius6/j6-2-qtr-panel.htmGlovebox
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-glovebox.htmRadio
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-radio-rem.htmSpeakers
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius6/j6-2-speakers.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:11:12
-0400
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear brake proportioning
>Is our brake proportioning valve
adjustable?
Nope.
>I ask because in 90,000 miles,
>I
have changed the front brakes 3x and the rear has never been
replaced
>ever. My fronts will warp any time I hit the brakes hard
more then 2 or 3
>times during the same couple minutes. I am
thinking that maybe the backs
>are not doing all they could be in helping
to slow the car down.
They aren't doing much at all!
However, if you
change the proportioning valve, you will also affect the
behavior of your
ABS (or so I've been told...Merritt, you listening?).
If you want to go
this route, I would suggest that you ask around the
Porsche groups. It
is a common practice for them to change proportioning
valves, and they have
many positive results as well.
>
> >> proportioning
valve is identical for both '93 and '94. Of course I
>would
>
>> need 2nd generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any
other
>problems?
> >
>
I think that (can someone check
this?) the propotioning valve for the 97+
cars may be different. My
reasoning is that I met a fella with a 97, and he
had quite a bit of brake
dust on his rear wheels (never seen so much on the
rears of one of our
cars). He said it happened all the time.
Hope this helps!
-
-Dennis
Granted, he may just have dusty brakes... but it's worth a
shot.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:27:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rear brake proportioning
Brake proportioning is more
complicated than "front to back" on our
ABS system. For the details you
should look at the 1991 Stealth
Technical Information Manual available
exclusively at my web site.
Look at chapter 5.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-stim.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Walton C.
Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>;
"Team3s"
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 24, 2001 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear brake
proportioning
Is our brake proportioning valve adjustable? I
ask because in 90,000
miles, I have changed the front brakes 3x and the rear
has never been
replaced ever. My fronts will warp any time I hit the
brakes hard
more then 2 or 3 times during the same couple minutes. I am
thinking
that maybe the backs are not doing all they could be in helping
to
slow the car down.
Sam
>> proportioning valve is
identical for both '93 and '94. Of course
I would
>> need 2nd
generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any
other
problems?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:44:24
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: rear
brake proportioning
Not everyone has ABS on their car. For those of
us who lack abs, what is
the split and what benefits might we see from a
re-worked proportioning
valve?
Jeff V.
1991 ESX Hybrid
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 1:28 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: rear brake proportioning
Brake proportioning is more
complicated than "front to back" on our
ABS system. For the details you
should look at the 1991 Stealth
Technical Information Manual available
exclusively at my web site.
Look at chapter 5.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-stim.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Walton C.
Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>;
"Team3s"
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 24, 2001 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear brake
proportioning
Is our brake proportioning valve adjustable? I
ask because in 90,000
miles, I have changed the front brakes 3x and the rear
has never been
replaced ever. My fronts will warp any time I hit the
brakes hard
more then 2 or 3 times during the same couple minutes. I am
thinking
that maybe the backs are not doing all they could be in helping
to
slow the car down.
Sam
>> proportioning valve is
identical for both '93 and '94. Of course
I would
>> need 2nd
generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any
other
problems?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:12:04
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Heel-Toe Shifting WAS: Speaking of Pedals...
>
Heel-and-toe is NOT over-rated ...
I agree, although I'm not very good
at it yet:-)
> I found out that with street shoed (size 10) and stock
> pedals that it is not as much of a heel-and-toe as it
> is
placing half my shoe on the brake, half my shoe
> on the gas, and rocking
my foot from side to side instead of
> using my heel and toe.
Yeah, that's how I do it... I thought that was the way it was done and
that
heel-toe was kind of a misnomer(?)... Anyway, with the stock
pedals and my
size 12/13 shoes, I end up with about 1" of the ball of my foot
on the brake
and roll over to the throttle with my pinky toe. I don't
get a secure grip
on either pedal, and I'm not able to brake as hard with
only 1" of my foot
on the pedal as I am with my full foot on the
pedal(pushing harder makes it
feel like my foot's going to slide off the
pedal. I also don't have as good
of control with the throttle to
rev-match.
> Your pedals also need to be adjusted to the right height
> otherwise you may press on the brake for an inch and nothing
happens.
Good idea - I'll check that out and see if I can improve things
with some
adjustments.
As for why I'm asking about heel-toeing,
it's not because I want to be
trail-braking and taking corners as fast as the
car is capable. Nor is it
that I'm serious about racing (yet... let's
see after this summer). It's
because I'd like to be able to minimize
the stress on my car when I drive it
aggressively (on the track or
not). I already have learned to double-clutch
and can do it about as
fast as I can shift normally - been doing that for
about 2 years now - EVERY
time I downshift. I'm also decent at accurately
rev-matching - not that
I'm good enough to take out my synchros, though :-)
I figure I'd like to
learn to heel-toe shift when braking so that I can be
nice to my synchros
(not to mention that by doing it, I may be able to keep
the car better
balanced through turns and thus go faster, but again, that's
secondary) and
because engine braking coupled with normal braking can make
my car stop
faster without heating up my brakes so much.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
Magnacor KV85, M1
10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
Tein HA Coilovers
(UPS broke 1st set !?!?! 2nd in transit)
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17,
17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html'94
Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 15:41:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Heel-Toe Shifting WAS: Speaking of Pedals...
You don't
really have to be exact with the blip to achieve rev
matching, just come up a
couple thousand rpm and let off.
With proper shoes and pedals, you get
plenty of grip on the brake
pedal, assuming your brakes are working
properly. When the ABS comes on,
that's all the brakes you've got
regardless of how hard you push!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:34:19
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Heel-Toe Shifting
I think we have roped another track junkie
here. Bravo, Erik!
One thing I forgot to mention to all you people
who want to go out this
weekend and practice ... my instructor (from the
Mid-Ohio Track Report post)
was in a car and his student was trying to
heel-and-toe at the end of the
very fast backstretch. The student
THOUGHT he was pushing on the brake
while pressing in the clutch but he was
pushing the gas. When he let out
the clutch they went flying off the
track and down into the gravel pit axle
high in the pea gravel.
Just
be careful out there. Engine braking can be dangerous if the
person
behind you is close and not paying attention. Then be ready to
answer why
your brake lights don't work when in fact you were using the gears
to slow
you down.
And maybe I don't mind doing this since for 4 weeks
I had no 1-2 synchro and
had to match revs in order to go anywhere. I
guess that DID teach me some
of the basics again. And note that many
race cars do not have synchros but
are straight gears and not splined like
normal cars. Those guys are good.
And heel-and-toe IS one way of doing
it. I saw a quick video from
Speedvision driving a BMW car and they had
a camera on his feet ... I swear
he did a heel-and-toe faster than I could
just shift normally ... and it was
smooth as silk. I must have watched
that for 30 times in a row. Then I
tried it. Nearly put myself
through the windshield. Next time I'll try it
sitting still.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 4:12 PM
To:
Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Heel-Toe Shifting WAS: Speaking
of Pedals...
> Heel-and-toe is NOT over-rated ...
I agree,
although I'm not very good at it yet:-)
> I found out that with street
shoed (size 10) and stock
> pedals that it is not as much of a
heel-and-toe as it
> is placing half my shoe on the brake, half my
shoe
> on the gas, and rocking my foot from side to side instead of
> using my heel and toe.
Yeah, that's how I do it... I
thought that was the way it was done and that
heel-toe was kind of a
misnomer(?)... Anyway, with the stock pedals and my
size 12/13 shoes, I
end up with about 1" of the ball of my foot on the brake
and roll over to the
throttle with my pinky toe. I don't get a secure grip
on either pedal,
and I'm not able to brake as hard with only 1" of my foot
on the pedal as I
am with my full foot on the pedal(pushing harder makes it
feel like my foot's
going to slide off the pedal. I also don't have as good
of control with
the throttle to rev-match.
> Your pedals also need to be adjusted to
the right height
> otherwise you may press on the brake for an inch and
nothing happens.
Good idea - I'll check that out and see if I can improve
things with some
adjustments.
As for why I'm asking about
heel-toeing, it's not because I want to be
trail-braking and taking corners
as fast as the car is capable. Nor is it
that I'm serious about racing
(yet... let's see after this summer). It's
because I'd like to be able
to minimize the stress on my car when I drive it
aggressively (on the track
or not). I already have learned to double-clutch
and can do it about as
fast as I can shift normally - been doing that for
about 2 years now - EVERY
time I downshift. I'm also decent at accurately
rev-matching - not that
I'm good enough to take out my synchros, though :-)
I figure I'd like to
learn to heel-toe shift when braking so that I can be
nice to my synchros
(not to mention that by doing it, I may be able to keep
the car better
balanced through turns and thus go faster, but again, that's
secondary) and
because engine braking coupled with normal braking can make
my car stop
faster without heating up my brakes so much.
-
--Erik
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#475
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