team3s             Tuesday, April 24 2001             Volume 01 : Number 474




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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:14:54 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: interior ?

Hey Folks, this may be a dumb question, but which parts of our seats are
leather?  I'm cleaning/detailing the interior for spring, and want to be
sure.  The inserts and bolsters seem obvious.  How about the sides?  Backs?
Headrests?  Are the perforated inserts on the doors leather?

Thanks!
Chip


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:01:31 -0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan

- ----- Original Message -----

> OK.  I'll try that tomorrow.  If so, it's a pretty wierd design;  you
would
> think getting some extra cooling by having both fans run at the same time
> would be a good thing.  I don't see how saving 1/2 amp or so by keeping
one
> fan shut off is that beneficial, especially since both these little
plastic
> fans put together wouldn't equal the cooling capacity of a single
old-style
> belt driven fan.  Maybe someday I'll consider running them on the same
> circuit?  Hmmmm.......
>
> - Frank


Frank:

No, there's nothing weird about the design.  It's designed to run with
independent fans.  Modern engines are meant to be kept within a certain
operating temperature range, and small dual electric fans allow this to be
done more precisely than big belt-driven fans.  One of them is usually tied
to the A/C switch, the other to a thermostat.

Another primary reason (in general) for the switch to electric fans was the
improved fuel economy - less drag on the engine, especially at higher RPM.
Of course, belt-driven fans would be nearly impossible on a
transverse-mounted engine with a bay as tightly packed as ours, so that's
probably the biggest reason.  Have you ever seen the fanbelt on a Corvair?
Imagine that thing at 7,000 RPM.

Here's a head scratcher:  My wife's '99 Jeep Cherokee has two small fans
mounted side-by-side -- one belt-driven and one electric (that runs only
when needed)!

Roger Roskam
91 Indy Stealth TT


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:53:05 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors

Hey guys, check these rotors out:

http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.html

Would anyone be interested in those rotors?  Looks like they run cooler,
last longer, and weigh less.

I may look into getting some made to fit our cars, with the Porsche calipers
from Brad Bedell.  I'm not sure what cost would be, but I just wanted to see
if there'd be any interest in such a setup.  I'd look into using the 13" x
1.25" rotors.  E-mail me privately if you think you may be interested.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'95 Chevrolet K1500 Z71

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 21:16:49 -0400
From: "Lab Rat" <labrat101@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Knock \ Hesitation help please

92 Dodge Stealth Trubo.  Last summer got new wires,  Apexi avc-r.  In the
last couple weeks I have noticed what i thought was the plugs missing at WOT
at 14.5 psi. I replaced the plugs and there was signs of detonation. ( tiny
metalic spots on a couple of the plugs)Anyway i still have this problem.
Everything seems to run ok as long as I don't go WOT and boost over 10psi. I
had the timing checked and the plug wires are less than a year old.  Running
new NGK plugs 1 step cooler than stock.  I am not much of a mechanic and
there is no one I know of in this area that will tune a modded Stealth.  Can
you give me some help troubleshooting?  Thank you

JC

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 01:28:35
From: "Chris Porter" <mrgotrocks@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Replacement

Would I need to replace downpipe, wiring harness and computer on a 93'
engine going into a 92' car? I know the 94' on up cars are the 2nd gen.
320hp engines (TwinTurbo) while the 93' and back are 1st gen with 300hp. Are
there differences between the 92' and 93' engines like there are between the
92' and 94'?

P.S. (93' engines are about $500 cheaper for some reason).
Thx for your help
Chris 92'Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:24:56 -0600
From: "Jaime Soto" <lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: car disabled

Hey guys this is the problem I was driving home from a basketball game
when I shifted into fifth and dumb clutch would not disengage. I tried to
shift back into fourth but it would not disengage. I pulled over after I
lost the speed I already had and tried to wave down two cop cars but they
kept going. So I had to push it two miles to my house because I'm so smart I
left the cell phone at my house and I just got here any comments on what it
may be and how to fix it.
thanks
Jaime
_________________________________________________________________
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 22:33:09 EDT
From: StevePKT77@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: car disabled

If I were in that situation I would have shut the car off, popped it into 1st
(it will come out of gear even if the clutch is engaged, if the engine is
off), and started the car while in 1st gear (with the e-brake off of course
so the car can roll as it starts).  Then you could have driven your two miles
in 1st gear at least... Now if your gears in the tranny have actually binded
then this would not have worked, as you would not be able to pull it out of
gear or back into another gear.  Just so you know for next time....
But anyway if your problem is simply that the clutch is not disengaging then
the linkage at the trans could have come apart or (more likely) if your
clutch has no resistance as you press it (goes to the floor with no effort)
then a seal in the clutch master cylinder probably burst.
- -Steve

In a message dated 4/23/01 9:25:54 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com writes:

<< Hey guys this is the problem I was driving home from a basketball game
 when I shifted into fifth and dumb clutch would not disengage. I tried to
 shift back into fourth but it would not disengage. I pulled over after I
 lost the speed I already had and tried to wave down two cop cars but they
 kept going. So I had to push it two miles to my house because I'm so smart I
 left the cell phone at my house and I just got here any comments on what it
 may be and how to fix it. >>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:24:51 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BRAKES...rotate rotors?

Everyone,

Thanks to everyone that helped out over the past few days with suggestions
on how to solve my shaking when braking steering wheel problem.  I took the
rotors to a local shop and had them turned ($12 for both fronts).  They work
great.  I still have 29.515 mm (1.162 inches) left on the rotors.  I know
it's just a temporary solution, but it' will hold for a while.

Next time I'll go with portefield Cryo treated rotors that are slotted and
and RS4 pads or Weston Race pads.

I still have to install my BF goodrich SS lines.

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
with no more wheel shaking


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 00:02:03 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: AVCR ! Fixed!

Mark,

Great that you fixed it.  I haven't looked to see what others responded to
you yet, but basically whatever settings you got from others are simply
trends and not absolute numbers.  You notice that the duty is set low
(20s-low 30s%) in the low RPM range and steadily increases (probably with an
odball spike around 5-5.5K RPM) to high 30s-50 by 7000RPM.  If you are
boosting much under the set boost, your AVCR will not learn.  Same thing
will happen if you are overboosting by much (??how much is a lot? I don't
know.).

Your FB speed has to be set high in 1st gear (7-9) and progressively
decrease to 5th gear (probably 1).  Never put any gear to X (off) because it
will not learn in that gear.  Never have any START duties at anything other
than 0% for the gears you want your car to learn.

The boost increase then decrease then increase that you mention is called
BOOST OSCILLATION.  It happens because your FB speed is too high for that
particular gear.  You want it to bee as high as possible in each gear
without oscillation (probably something like (7, 5, 3, 2, 1).

Start with my settings (duty) turned down a few (-4%) points.  Watch the
boost gauge and see what it spikes to and what it holds.  Make sure there is
no OSCILLATION.  You are probably still too low.  Turn up the duty (+2%
across the board) and notice spike and hold boost.  If too low, turn it up
again.  You got to make sure your car doesn't spike much above desired for 2
reasons: bad for engine, and AVCR learning gets disabled.  So, eventually,
you may need to turn down the early portions of the duty curve to minimize
spiking.

Whenever you are tuning your car, you have to tune it from 2500-3000 RPM at
leat going to close to redline probably in 3rd (how I always do it) but
others have done the rough tuning in 2nd and finetuning in 3rd.  Regardless,
pay attention to the road and don't get any speeding tickets.

If you tune your car for setting B (.8 bars) 1st, it may be easier and you
learn the process.  Then you can copy your duty curve to setting A and
increase the boost to 1 bar and duty by a few %.

Personally, I do not like to see the car spike in setting A above 1.05 bars.
Therefore, I set the boost up to 5000 RPM @ .95 bars.  The reason is that
when you shift gears, your boost will spike somewhat.  Since you can never
shift above 5000 RPM, you can put the target boost @ 1 bar above this point.

Apexi AVC-R Settings

SETTING A
1. Boost/Duty
RPM Boost Duty
2500 0.95 27%
3000 0.95 27%
3500 0.95 35%
4000 0.95 28%
4500 0.95 31%
5000 1.00 33%
5500 1.00 37%
6000 1.00 34%

2. Scramble
All on 0

3. Ne Point
RPM
2500
3000
3500
4000
4500
5000
5500
6000

4. FB Speed
1st 7
2nd 3
3rd 3
4th 2
5th 2

5. Learn Gear
1st X
2nd X
3rd 0
4th 0
5th X

6. Start Duty
1st 0%
2nd 0%
3rd 0%
4th 0%
5th 0%

MONITOR
Boost and speed

ETC Note:
1. Car Select
Cylinders 6
Speed 4
Throttle arrow points to upper right.

NOTE: Cyl = 6 when the RPM wire is connected to the purple wire.
Cyl = 1 when the IDC wire is connected to the purple wire.

2. Sensor Select
Relative 1 (always)

3. Gear Judge (2nd gen TT/VR4)
1st 107
2nd 63
3rd 41
4th 30
5th 23

N/S (RPM/SPEED)
255

Note: Number (N/S) above varries in real time depending what gear you are
in.
This number needs to match up with one of the gear numbers.  !st gen GEAR
JUDGE NUMBERS are lower than I listed.

4. Graph Scale
Bs: 1 kg/cm2
Ne: 7000 RPM
Sp: 300 km/h

5. Scramble Switch
SCSCW: OFF
Note: You have to make sure this is OFF if you do not have a SCRAMBLE SWITCH
installed on your car.

VFD Bright
Day 99
Dim 50
Night 20

I thank the few who helped me and my brother get through our installation
and tunning of the AVCR.  You know who you are.

Happy boosting.

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Hindelang [mailto:hindelan@pilot.msu.edu]
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 1:03 PM
> To: Stealth Net; Mi3si; Team3S
> Subject: [mi3si] AVCR ! Fixed!
>
>
>
> Last night was one of the greatest nights in the last year and a half.
> I finally figured out why my avcr wasn't working.
>
> Hans was right, i had the Com hose and the NO hose confused.
> I switched them, tied it down and made a run with the settings
> at .95 bar and 45% duty, and i instantly hit 20 psi.
>
> BAD! yes i know, so i turned it down.. wondering why the hell
> i hit 20 while it was set at .95  so i turned it down to .75bar
> i hit about 18psi, still to much, car choked. im assuming that
> was the fuel cut,
>
> well now my problem is that ive got this awesome pull when the car
> is set to .30 percent boost, and 37% Duty but it spikes at 15
> and then drops off to about 10, then spikes to 15 and drops off again.
> so its like little small hard pull then soft pull hard pull soft pull,
> and this will happen on WOT...
>
> any recommendations on how to set it now?


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 06:13:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine Replacement

I have a little info at my web page below that may help you make a
decision.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-2bolto4bolt.htm

Starting with June 1992 production-date cars Mitsu changed our 6G72
DOHC engine, giving it a 4-bolt main bearing cap girdle (the original
used 2-bolt caps with stiffening stays on the middle 4 bolts) and a
nitrided-steel crankshaft (the original was cast iron or mild steel).
Mitsubishi made other changes, most significant of which was moving
the crank and cam angle sensors from the left head (where it was
user-adjustable for basic timing) and into the block (not
adjustable). Major lower-engine parts that remained the same include
the piston and pin assembly [MD307972 is listed as the standard-size
replacement for all years] and the connecting rod assembly [MD131329
is the only part number listed for all years] (so much for the myth
that 1993+ cars have stronger rods).

You may have some wiring harness issues to resolve by putting a
complete 1993 engine in a 1992 car. I am not sure if the ECU must be
changed. The ECU for each year and model car has a different part
number.

Funny that 1992 engines cost more considering that is the year of
highest production

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius5/j5-2-production.htm

and that 1993 engines are considered stronger.

Have you tried all the sources I list for reman'd and new engines on
the giant Links Page at my web site?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Porter" <mrgotrocks@hotmail.com>
To: <fastmax@home.com>
Cc: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 1:28 AM
Subject: Team3S: Engine Replacement

Would I need to replace downpipe, wiring harness and computer on a
93' engine going into a 92' car? I know the 94' on up cars are the
2nd gen. 320hp engines (TwinTurbo) while the 93' and back are 1st gen
with 300hp. Are there differences between the 92' and 93' engines
like there are between the 92' and 94'?

P.S. (93' engines are about $500 cheaper for some reason).
Thx for your help
Chris 92'Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:22:09 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: the good news and the bad news: master cylinder vs. accellerator  cable

The good news is that I rebuilt the brake master cylinder on my '93 VR4.
The bad news is that I screwed up my accellerator cable in the process.  I
know this seems far-fetched, but I decided to cram a set of channel locks
between the rear heat shield to pry the cables out of the way to give me
more room for my hands.  Now the cable doesn't move freely.  After
stugggling to remove any kinks, it looks like I get to replace it too.

Bleeding the master cylinder was a real experience.  With the two brake
lines into the master cylinder disconnected, you have your "assistant" press
the brake pedal, then you cover the two openings and the assistant releases
the brake pedal, which draws fluid into the master cylinder.  Only be sure
to put a rag over the two openings before your assistant presses the bake
pedal, otherwise you get a spout of brake fluid that would make Moby Dick
proud!

By the way, someone said they had upgraded their 1st generation VR4 to 2nd
generation REAR brakes.  I already looked at the clearance (or lack of
clearance) on the 2nd generation FRONT calipers with the 1st generation
wheels, but not the back.  The 1st gen. rear wheels have about half the
clearance with the 2nd generation rear calipers, which should be plenty.
Upgrading to 2nd generation rear calipers on my '93 would simplify the
logistics of buying pads - same pads for both cars front and rear.  The
proportioning valve is identical for both '93 and '94.  Of course I would
need 2nd generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any other problems?

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 06:20:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car disabled

If you feel no resistance when you press the clutch pedal then you
*may* have lost your clutch hydraulic fluid. Likely causes are
something wrong with the master cylinder or the release (slave)
cylinder, or the clutch hose leaks. To test, first check the fluid
level in the master cylinder. If it's low or gone, then fill it up.
Have someone press the clutch so you can observe what component is
leaking. You may have to remove the battery and its tray to see the
clutch hose and release cylinder. Also look for puddles of fluid.
Look on the Garage Page at my web site for replacemnt instructions
for the clutch hose and release cylinder, and clutch bleeding
instructions.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaime Soto" <lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: car disabled

Hey guys this is the problem I was driving home from a basketball
game
when I shifted into fifth and dumb clutch would not disengage. I
tried to shift back into fourth but it would not disengage. I pulled
over after I lost the speed I already had and tried to wave down two
cop cars but they kept going. So I had to push it two miles to my
house because I'm so smart I left the cell phone at my house and I
just got here any comments on what it may be and how to fix it.
thanks
Jaime

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:42:52 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: the good news and the bad news: master cylinder vs. accellerator  cable

> proportioning valve is identical for both '93 and '94.  Of course I would
> need 2nd generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate any other problems?

I have 2nd gen brakes on my '93 VR-4 in front and back. The only thing I
had to do
on the rear was cut back the dust shield so the 2nd gen rear rotors
would fit. Everything
else bolted right on with no problems.

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 11:24:49 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired

I spoke to a rep from Greddy the other day, after waiting a week for a reply
to my fax, and never receiving a reply to my email's, regarding the problems
I am having with the Type-S BOV that I purchased.

He recommended I take the valve to an authorized distributor and have them
test it, and repair any problems found.  The problem I had was the valve
would not open, one the car or with a hand vacuum pump.  I found leakage in
the adjustment screw, and hose fitting, and put Teflon tape on them.   But
the rep from Greddy said that I shouldn't have to do this.

I tried a few of the Authorized Distributors from the Greddy web page that
the rep told me about, and none of them returned my email's or calls.

Anyone know if a reliable Authorized Distributor where I can have my BOV
fixed ?

Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:33:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired

>> Anyone know if a reliable Authorized Distributor where I
>> can have my BOV fixed ?

Action Turbo
1921 W. Yale
Englewood, CO 80110
(303) 935-2003
http://www.actionturbos.com/

Might be able to help you out. You might try also the speed shops
that specialize in our cars. See the Links Page at my web site.

http://www.greddy.com/ lists their local dealers around the USA and
the world. Maybe there is one close to you.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
To: "Team 3S List Submissions" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 9:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:12:26 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired

Go back to your posts and the related answers where I tell what to do with
the Greddy. I opened it already and there are possibilities for leakage so
do the same (there is no seal that will be broken when opening) It's easier
than installing it !!

Otherwise, I just dunno understand why you don't send it back to Brian and
let it replace as already supposed.


Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> I spoke to a rep from Greddy the other day, after waiting a week for a
reply
> to my fax, and never receiving a reply to my email's, regarding the
problems
> I am having with the Type-S BOV that I purchased.

<snip>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:07:48 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock \ Hesitation help please

As usual, let one regap the plugs dow to 0.032-0.034" for boost above stock.

If nobody can do this for you crank boost back to 10 psi. I'd do this
anyways as metallic particles on the plugs sounds not good (rings broken)

Wires are never a problem.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> 92 Dodge Stealth Trubo.  Last summer got new wires,  Apexi avc-r.  In the
> last couple weeks I have noticed what i thought was the plugs missing at
WOT
> at 14.5 psi. I replaced the plugs and there was signs of detonation. (
tiny
> metalic spots on a couple of the plugs)Anyway i still have this problem.
> Everything seems to run ok as long as I don't go WOT and boost over 10psi.
I
> had the timing checked and the plug wires are less than a year old.
Running
> new NGK plugs 1 step cooler than stock.  I am not much of a mechanic and
> there is no one I know of in this area that will tune a modded Stealth.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:17:28 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors

Oh man, I hate people that saying "our hats are the best on the market".
This stinks to me :(( The hats do not have any heat expanding slots and are
heavy. But I guess they can be combined with Alcon ones or others.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.html
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:04:39 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors

Weight will become about the same if not more with the aluminum hat bolts
and nuts as the finns inside the vanes add some weight for sure.
Good thing : They will indeed be better cooling.
Bad thing : they will rust like hell if tehy are not stainless steel (and
they can't be due to their surface treating they are talking about. The
production of them seems to be horrible what results in high costs.

Just find out the prices with appropriate hats and post them here. The
caliper is now issue.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



> Hey guys, check these rotors out:
>
> http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.html
>
> Would anyone be interested in those rotors?  Looks like they run cooler,
> last longer, and weigh less.
>
> I may look into getting some made to fit our cars, with the Porsche
calipers
> from Brad Bedell.  I'm not sure what cost would be, but I just wanted to
see
> if there'd be any interest in such a setup.  I'd look into using the 13" x
> 1.25" rotors.  E-mail me privately if you think you may be interested.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:25:26 -0400
From: Mark Hindelang <hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Supra Fuel Pump

Hi all, im not into the supras at all, but ive heard that there
are two typs of stock fuel pumps from the supras and im wondering
which one is best for our cars?  the mkiv, or the other model pump?

I thought there was a difference in psi and flow rate.. Someone also
did some testing by adding more voltage to the pump so that it wouldn't
decrease at WOT..

Does anyone have any advice on these things?  Those of you who have used
the supra fuel pump, which one did you use.

Also i thought there was a page on the net, (but I lost it) that sold
the supra fuel pump,
not sure what model for $124.. but you had to be in the team3s club i
believe.

Anyone wana buy me a fuel pump?


Thanks.

Mark

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 17:27:56 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <dan@3sxperts.com>
Subject: Team3S: ERL Water Injection Group Buy from 3SX

I just wanted to update everyone that participated in the ERL Water
Injection group buy. The shipment from England is in the U.S. and should be
in our hands by tomorrow. We should have everyone's orders shipped out no
later than the end of this week. I apologize for the slight delay but our
credit card processing company screwed us up for about 10 days.

Thanks for your support.

Dan Mecier
3SX Automotive Technologies
www.3SXperts.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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