team3s
Tuesday, April 24
2001
Volume 01 : Number
474
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:14:54 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: interior ?
Hey Folks, this may be a dumb question, but which
parts of our seats are
leather? I'm cleaning/detailing the interior for
spring, and want to be
sure. The inserts and bolsters seem
obvious. How about the sides? Backs?
Headrests? Are the
perforated inserts on the doors leather?
Thanks!
Chip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:01:31
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
- ----- Original Message
-----
> OK. I'll try that tomorrow. If so, it's a pretty
wierd design; you
would
> think getting some extra cooling by
having both fans run at the same time
> would be a good thing. I
don't see how saving 1/2 amp or so by keeping
one
> fan shut off is
that beneficial, especially since both these little
plastic
> fans put
together wouldn't equal the cooling capacity of a single
old-style
>
belt driven fan. Maybe someday I'll consider running them on the
same
> circuit? Hmmmm.......
>
> -
Frank
Frank:
No, there's nothing weird about the design.
It's designed to run with
independent fans. Modern engines are meant to
be kept within a certain
operating temperature range, and small dual electric
fans allow this to be
done more precisely than big belt-driven fans.
One of them is usually tied
to the A/C switch, the other to a
thermostat.
Another primary reason (in general) for the switch to
electric fans was the
improved fuel economy - less drag on the engine,
especially at higher RPM.
Of course, belt-driven fans would be nearly
impossible on a
transverse-mounted engine with a bay as tightly packed as
ours, so that's
probably the biggest reason. Have you ever seen the
fanbelt on a Corvair?
Imagine that thing at 7,000 RPM.
Here's a head
scratcher: My wife's '99 Jeep Cherokee has two small fans
mounted
side-by-side -- one belt-driven and one electric (that runs only
when
needed)!
Roger Roskam
91 Indy Stealth TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:53:05
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
13" Steel brake rotors
Hey guys, check these rotors out:
http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.htmlWould
anyone be interested in those rotors? Looks like they run cooler,
last
longer, and weigh less.
I may look into getting some made to fit our
cars, with the Porsche calipers
from Brad Bedell. I'm not sure what
cost would be, but I just wanted to see
if there'd be any interest in such a
setup. I'd look into using the 13" x
1.25" rotors. E-mail me
privately if you think you may be interested.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi
Spyder VR-4
'95 Chevrolet K1500 Z71
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 21:16:49
-0400
From: "Lab Rat" <
labrat101@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Knock \ Hesitation help please
92 Dodge Stealth Trubo. Last summer
got new wires, Apexi avc-r. In the
last couple weeks I have
noticed what i thought was the plugs missing at WOT
at 14.5 psi. I replaced
the plugs and there was signs of detonation. ( tiny
metalic spots on a couple
of the plugs)Anyway i still have this problem.
Everything seems to run ok as
long as I don't go WOT and boost over 10psi. I
had the timing checked and the
plug wires are less than a year old. Running
new NGK plugs 1 step
cooler than stock. I am not much of a mechanic and
there is no one I
know of in this area that will tune a modded Stealth. Can
you give me
some help troubleshooting? Thank you
JC
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 01:28:35
From: "Chris Porter" <
mrgotrocks@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Replacement
Would I need to replace downpipe, wiring
harness and computer on a 93'
engine going into a 92' car? I know the 94' on
up cars are the 2nd gen.
320hp engines (TwinTurbo) while the 93' and back
are 1st gen with 300hp. Are
there differences between the 92' and 93'
engines like there are between the
92' and 94'?
P.S. (93' engines are
about $500 cheaper for some reason).
Thx for your help
Chris 92'Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:24:56
-0600
From: "Jaime Soto" <
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: car disabled
Hey guys this is the problem I was driving home from
a basketball game
when I shifted into fifth and dumb clutch would not
disengage. I tried to
shift back into fourth but it would not disengage. I
pulled over after I
lost the speed I already had and tried to wave down two
cop cars but they
kept going. So I had to push it two miles to my house
because I'm so smart I
left the cell phone at my house and I just got here
any comments on what it
may be and how to fix
it.
thanks
Jaime
_________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 22:33:09
EDT
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
car disabled
If I were in that situation I would have shut the car off,
popped it into 1st
(it will come out of gear even if the clutch is engaged,
if the engine is
off), and started the car while in 1st gear (with the
e-brake off of course
so the car can roll as it starts). Then you
could have driven your two miles
in 1st gear at least... Now if your gears
in the tranny have actually binded
then this would not have worked, as you
would not be able to pull it out of
gear or back into another gear.
Just so you know for next time....
But anyway if your problem is simply that
the clutch is not disengaging then
the linkage at the trans could have come
apart or (more likely) if your
clutch has no resistance as you press it
(goes to the floor with no effort)
then a seal in the clutch master cylinder
probably burst.
- -Steve
In a message dated 4/23/01 9:25:54 PM US
Eastern Standard Time,
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com
writes:
<< Hey guys this is the problem I was driving home from a
basketball game
when I shifted into fifth and dumb clutch would not
disengage. I tried to
shift back into fourth but it would not
disengage. I pulled over after I
lost the speed I already had and
tried to wave down two cop cars but they
kept going. So I had to push
it two miles to my house because I'm so smart I
left the cell phone at
my house and I just got here any comments on what it
may be and how to
fix it. >>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:24:51
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BRAKES...rotate rotors?
Everyone,
Thanks to everyone that helped
out over the past few days with suggestions
on how to solve my shaking when
braking steering wheel problem. I took the
rotors to a local shop and
had them turned ($12 for both fronts). They work
great. I still
have 29.515 mm (1.162 inches) left on the rotors. I know
it's just a
temporary solution, but it' will hold for a while.
Next time I'll go with
portefield Cryo treated rotors that are slotted and
and RS4 pads or Weston
Race pads.
I still have to install my BF goodrich SS lines.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
with no more wheel shaking
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 00:02:03
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
AVCR ! Fixed!
Mark,
Great that you fixed it. I haven't
looked to see what others responded to
you yet, but basically whatever
settings you got from others are simply
trends and not absolute
numbers. You notice that the duty is set low
(20s-low 30s%) in the low
RPM range and steadily increases (probably with an
odball spike around 5-5.5K
RPM) to high 30s-50 by 7000RPM. If you are
boosting much under the set
boost, your AVCR will not learn. Same thing
will happen if you are
overboosting by much (??how much is a lot? I don't
know.).
Your FB
speed has to be set high in 1st gear (7-9) and progressively
decrease to 5th
gear (probably 1). Never put any gear to X (off) because it
will not
learn in that gear. Never have any START duties at anything other
than
0% for the gears you want your car to learn.
The boost increase then
decrease then increase that you mention is called
BOOST OSCILLATION. It
happens because your FB speed is too high for that
particular gear. You
want it to bee as high as possible in each gear
without oscillation (probably
something like (7, 5, 3, 2, 1).
Start with my settings (duty) turned down
a few (-4%) points. Watch the
boost gauge and see what it spikes to and
what it holds. Make sure there is
no OSCILLATION. You are
probably still too low. Turn up the duty (+2%
across the board) and
notice spike and hold boost. If too low, turn it up
again. You
got to make sure your car doesn't spike much above desired for 2
reasons: bad
for engine, and AVCR learning gets disabled. So, eventually,
you may
need to turn down the early portions of the duty curve to
minimize
spiking.
Whenever you are tuning your car, you have to tune
it from 2500-3000 RPM at
leat going to close to redline probably in 3rd (how
I always do it) but
others have done the rough tuning in 2nd and finetuning
in 3rd. Regardless,
pay attention to the road and don't get any
speeding tickets.
If you tune your car for setting B (.8 bars) 1st, it
may be easier and you
learn the process. Then you can copy your duty
curve to setting A and
increase the boost to 1 bar and duty by a few
%.
Personally, I do not like to see the car spike in setting A above 1.05
bars.
Therefore, I set the boost up to 5000 RPM @ .95 bars. The reason
is that
when you shift gears, your boost will spike somewhat. Since you
can never
shift above 5000 RPM, you can put the target boost @ 1 bar above
this point.
Apexi AVC-R Settings
SETTING A
1. Boost/Duty
RPM
Boost Duty
2500 0.95 27%
3000 0.95 27%
3500 0.95 35%
4000 0.95
28%
4500 0.95 31%
5000 1.00 33%
5500 1.00 37%
6000 1.00
34%
2. Scramble
All on 0
3. Ne
Point
RPM
2500
3000
3500
4000
4500
5000
5500
6000
4.
FB Speed
1st 7
2nd 3
3rd 3
4th 2
5th 2
5. Learn
Gear
1st X
2nd X
3rd 0
4th 0
5th X
6. Start Duty
1st
0%
2nd 0%
3rd 0%
4th 0%
5th 0%
MONITOR
Boost and
speed
ETC Note:
1. Car Select
Cylinders 6
Speed 4
Throttle
arrow points to upper right.
NOTE: Cyl = 6 when the RPM wire is connected
to the purple wire.
Cyl = 1 when the IDC wire is connected to the purple
wire.
2. Sensor Select
Relative 1 (always)
3. Gear Judge (2nd
gen TT/VR4)
1st 107
2nd 63
3rd 41
4th 30
5th 23
N/S
(RPM/SPEED)
255
Note: Number (N/S) above varries in real time
depending what gear you are
in.
This number needs to match up with one of
the gear numbers. !st gen GEAR
JUDGE NUMBERS are lower than I
listed.
4. Graph Scale
Bs: 1 kg/cm2
Ne: 7000 RPM
Sp: 300
km/h
5. Scramble Switch
SCSCW: OFF
Note: You have to make sure this
is OFF if you do not have a SCRAMBLE SWITCH
installed on your car.
VFD
Bright
Day 99
Dim 50
Night 20
I thank the few who helped me and
my brother get through our installation
and tunning of the AVCR. You
know who you are.
Happy boosting.
- -MIKE-
95 Red
VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Hindelang
[mailto:hindelan@pilot.msu.edu]
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 1:03
PM
> To: Stealth Net; Mi3si; Team3S
> Subject: [mi3si] AVCR !
Fixed!
>
>
>
> Last night was one of the greatest nights
in the last year and a half.
> I finally figured out why my avcr wasn't
working.
>
> Hans was right, i had the Com hose and the NO hose
confused.
> I switched them, tied it down and made a run with the
settings
> at .95 bar and 45% duty, and i instantly hit 20
psi.
>
> BAD! yes i know, so i turned it down.. wondering why the
hell
> i hit 20 while it was set at .95 so i turned it down to
.75bar
> i hit about 18psi, still to much, car choked. im assuming
that
> was the fuel cut,
>
> well now my problem is that ive
got this awesome pull when the car
> is set to .30 percent boost, and 37%
Duty but it spikes at 15
> and then drops off to about 10, then spikes to
15 and drops off again.
> so its like little small hard pull then soft
pull hard pull soft pull,
> and this will happen on WOT...
>
>
any recommendations on how to set it now?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 06:13:24
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Replacement
I have a little info at my web page below
that may help you make a
decision.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-2bolto4bolt.htmStarting
with June 1992 production-date cars Mitsu changed our 6G72
DOHC engine,
giving it a 4-bolt main bearing cap girdle (the original
used 2-bolt caps
with stiffening stays on the middle 4 bolts) and a
nitrided-steel crankshaft
(the original was cast iron or mild steel).
Mitsubishi made other changes,
most significant of which was moving
the crank and cam angle sensors from the
left head (where it was
user-adjustable for basic timing) and into the block
(not
adjustable). Major lower-engine parts that remained the same
include
the piston and pin assembly [MD307972 is listed as the
standard-size
replacement for all years] and the connecting rod assembly
[MD131329
is the only part number listed for all years] (so much for the
myth
that 1993+ cars have stronger rods).
You may have some wiring
harness issues to resolve by putting a
complete 1993 engine in a 1992 car. I
am not sure if the ECU must be
changed. The ECU for each year and model car
has a different part
number.
Funny that 1992 engines cost more
considering that is the year of
highest production
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius5/j5-2-production.htmand
that 1993 engines are considered stronger.
Have you tried all the sources
I list for reman'd and new engines on
the giant Links Page at my web
site?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Chris Porter" <
mrgotrocks@hotmail.com>
To:
<
fastmax@home.com>
Cc: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 24, 2001 1:28 AM
Subject: Team3S: Engine
Replacement
Would I need to replace downpipe, wiring harness and computer
on a
93' engine going into a 92' car? I know the 94' on up cars are
the
2nd gen. 320hp engines (TwinTurbo) while the 93' and back are 1st
gen
with 300hp. Are there differences between the 92' and 93' engines
like
there are between the 92' and 94'?
P.S. (93' engines are about $500
cheaper for some reason).
Thx for your help
Chris 92'Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:22:09
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: the good news and the bad news: master cylinder vs. accellerator
cable
The good news is that I rebuilt the brake master cylinder on my '93
VR4.
The bad news is that I screwed up my accellerator cable in the
process. I
know this seems far-fetched, but I decided to cram a set of
channel locks
between the rear heat shield to pry the cables out of the way
to give me
more room for my hands. Now the cable doesn't move
freely. After
stugggling to remove any kinks, it looks like I get to
replace it too.
Bleeding the master cylinder was a real experience.
With the two brake
lines into the master cylinder disconnected, you have your
"assistant" press
the brake pedal, then you cover the two openings and the
assistant releases
the brake pedal, which draws fluid into the master
cylinder. Only be sure
to put a rag over the two openings before your
assistant presses the bake
pedal, otherwise you get a spout of brake fluid
that would make Moby Dick
proud!
By the way, someone said they had
upgraded their 1st generation VR4 to 2nd
generation REAR brakes. I
already looked at the clearance (or lack of
clearance) on the 2nd generation
FRONT calipers with the 1st generation
wheels, but not the back. The
1st gen. rear wheels have about half the
clearance with the 2nd generation
rear calipers, which should be plenty.
Upgrading to 2nd generation rear
calipers on my '93 would simplify the
logistics of buying pads - same pads
for both cars front and rear. The
proportioning valve is identical for
both '93 and '94. Of course I would
need 2nd generation rear rotors.
Can anyone anticipate any other problems?
Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 06:20:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car disabled
If you feel no resistance when you press the
clutch pedal then you
*may* have lost your clutch hydraulic fluid. Likely
causes are
something wrong with the master cylinder or the release
(slave)
cylinder, or the clutch hose leaks. To test, first check the
fluid
level in the master cylinder. If it's low or gone, then fill it
up.
Have someone press the clutch so you can observe what component
is
leaking. You may have to remove the battery and its tray to see
the
clutch hose and release cylinder. Also look for puddles of fluid.
Look
on the Garage Page at my web site for replacemnt instructions
for the clutch
hose and release cylinder, and clutch bleeding
instructions.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaime Soto" <
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 23, 2001 8:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: car disabled
Hey guys
this is the problem I was driving home from a basketball
game
when I
shifted into fifth and dumb clutch would not disengage. I
tried to shift back
into fourth but it would not disengage. I pulled
over after I lost the speed
I already had and tried to wave down two
cop cars but they kept going. So I
had to push it two miles to my
house because I'm so smart I left the cell
phone at my house and I
just got here any comments on what it may be and how
to fix it.
thanks
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:42:52
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: the good news and the bad news: master cylinder vs. accellerator
cable
> proportioning valve is identical for both '93 and '94.
Of course I would
> need 2nd generation rear rotors. Can anyone anticipate
any other problems?
I have 2nd gen brakes on my '93 VR-4 in front and
back. The only thing I
had to do
on the rear was cut back the dust shield
so the 2nd gen rear rotors
would fit. Everything
else bolted right on
with no problems.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 11:24:49
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired
I spoke to a rep from
Greddy the other day, after waiting a week for a reply
to my fax, and never
receiving a reply to my email's, regarding the problems
I am having with the
Type-S BOV that I purchased.
He recommended I take the valve to an
authorized distributor and have them
test it, and repair any problems
found. The problem I had was the valve
would not open, one the car or
with a hand vacuum pump. I found leakage in
the adjustment screw, and
hose fitting, and put Teflon tape on them. But
the rep from
Greddy said that I shouldn't have to do this.
I tried a few of the
Authorized Distributors from the Greddy web page that
the rep told me about,
and none of them returned my email's or calls.
Anyone know if a reliable
Authorized Distributor where I can have my BOV
fixed
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:33:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired
>> Anyone know if
a reliable Authorized Distributor where I
>> can have my BOV fixed
?
Action Turbo
1921 W. Yale
Englewood, CO 80110
(303)
935-2003
http://www.actionturbos.com/Might
be able to help you out. You might try also the speed shops
that specialize
in our cars. See the Links Page at my web site.
http://www.greddy.com/ lists their local
dealers around the USA and
the world. Maybe there is one close to
you.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 24, 2001 9:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV
tested/repaired
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:12:26
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: how to get Greddy BOV tested/repaired
Go back to your posts
and the related answers where I tell what to do with
the Greddy. I opened it
already and there are possibilities for leakage so
do the same (there is no
seal that will be broken when opening) It's easier
than installing it
!!
Otherwise, I just dunno understand why you don't send it back to Brian
and
let it replace as already supposed.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch> I spoke to a rep
from Greddy the other day, after waiting a week for a
reply
> to my
fax, and never receiving a reply to my email's, regarding
the
problems
> I am having with the Type-S BOV that I
purchased.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:07:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Knock \ Hesitation help please
As usual, let one regap the
plugs dow to 0.032-0.034" for boost above stock.
If nobody can do this
for you crank boost back to 10 psi. I'd do this
anyways as metallic particles
on the plugs sounds not good (rings broken)
Wires are never a
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> 92 Dodge Stealth
Trubo. Last summer got new wires, Apexi avc-r. In the
>
last couple weeks I have noticed what i thought was the plugs missing
at
WOT
> at 14.5 psi. I replaced the plugs and there was signs of
detonation. (
tiny
> metalic spots on a couple of the plugs)Anyway i
still have this problem.
> Everything seems to run ok as long as I don't
go WOT and boost over 10psi.
I
> had the timing checked and the plug
wires are less than a year old.
Running
> new NGK plugs 1 step cooler
than stock. I am not much of a mechanic and
> there is no one I know
of in this area that will tune a modded Stealth.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:17:28
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors
Oh man, I hate people that saying "our
hats are the best on the market".
This stinks to me :(( The hats do not have
any heat expanding slots and are
heavy. But I guess they can be combined with
Alcon ones or others.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>
http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.html>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:04:39
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 13" Steel brake rotors
Weight will become about the same if
not more with the aluminum hat bolts
and nuts as the finns inside the vanes
add some weight for sure.
Good thing : They will indeed be better
cooling.
Bad thing : they will rust like hell if tehy are not stainless steel
(and
they can't be due to their surface treating they are talking about.
The
production of them seems to be horrible what results in high
costs.
Just find out the prices with appropriate hats and post them here.
The
caliper is now issue.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Hey guys, check
these rotors out:
>
>
http://www.thebrakeman.com/rotors/hurricane.html>
>
Would anyone be interested in those rotors? Looks like they run
cooler,
> last longer, and weigh less.
>
> I may look into
getting some made to fit our cars, with the Porsche
calipers
> from
Brad Bedell. I'm not sure what cost would be, but I just wanted
to
see
> if there'd be any interest in such a setup. I'd look
into using the 13" x
> 1.25" rotors. E-mail me privately if you
think you may be interested.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:25:26
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Supra Fuel Pump
Hi all, im not into the supras at all, but ive
heard that there
are two typs of stock fuel pumps from the supras and im
wondering
which one is best for our cars? the mkiv, or the other model
pump?
I thought there was a difference in psi and flow rate.. Someone
also
did some testing by adding more voltage to the pump so that it
wouldn't
decrease at WOT..
Does anyone have any advice on these
things? Those of you who have used
the supra fuel pump, which one did
you use.
Also i thought there was a page on the net, (but I lost it)
that sold
the supra fuel pump,
not sure what model for $124.. but you had
to be in the team3s club i
believe.
Anyone wana buy me a fuel
pump?
Thanks.
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 17:27:56
-0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dan@3sxperts.com>
Subject: Team3S: ERL
Water Injection Group Buy from 3SX
I just wanted to update everyone that
participated in the ERL Water
Injection group buy. The shipment from England
is in the U.S. and should be
in our hands by tomorrow. We should have
everyone's orders shipped out no
later than the end of this week. I apologize
for the slight delay but our
credit card processing company screwed us up for
about 10 days.
Thanks for your support.
Dan Mecier
3SX
Automotive Technologies
www.3SXperts.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#474
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