team3s
Monday, April 23
2001
Volume 01 : Number
473
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 22 Apr 2001 13:03:01 -0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: AVCR ! Fixed!
Last night was one of the greatest nights in the
last year and a half.
I finally figured out why my avcr wasn't
working.
Hans was right, i had the Com hose and the NO hose
confused.
I switched them, tied it down and made a run with the
settings
at .95 bar and 45% duty, and i instantly hit 20 psi.
BAD! yes
i know, so i turned it down.. wondering why the hell
i hit 20 while it was
set at .95 so i turned it down to .75bar
i hit about 18psi, still to
much, car choked. im assuming that
was the fuel cut,
well now my
problem is that ive got this awesome pull when the car
is set to .30 percent
boost, and 37% Duty but it spikes at 15
and then drops off to about 10, then
spikes to 15 and drops off again.
so its like little small hard pull then
soft pull hard pull soft pull,
and this will happen on WOT...
any
recommendations on how to set it now?
i was going to follow the
directions that i got from everyone to set it,
but every time i try to set it
to learn, im always spiking up into the
20's which
i don't want to do too
much,, even in learn...
THANK YOU
HANS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:28:54
-0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch WANTED!
Gentlemen Hi!
I am I a process to change my stock
clutch and I was wondering is someone
has something for sale or a place @ the
net to recommend me. My car has
6-gear transmission and about 450 HP to
handle with the clutch. I am driving
it 95% city and 5% drag.
Thank
you all
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto
Rico
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:58:38
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Injector question
Hi Everyone,
Does anyone know what flow the
Denso injector #195500-0830 means?
Is it a 550cc or a 720cc?
Thanks in
advance,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John
Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
To: Andrew D.
Woll <
awoll@aol.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 21, 2001 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotors are off of
there
> Hi Andy,
>
> Glad you were
successful!
>
> I'm surprized no one suggested a HOT wrench to
assist
> removal of a stubborn rotor.
>
> After 33k miles I
had to turn my front rotors.
> Banging with a hammer didn't help so I
tried using
> bolts in the holes resulting in bending the face and
>
initiating a crack from the bolt hole.
>
> More penetrating
fluid and the propane torch finally
> got the rotor loose.
>
> Be of good cheer,
> John
>
>
> --- "Andrew D.
Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
wrote:
> > Thanks to all of you for your tips on rotor removal.
>
> The bolts that go
> > through the rotor are 10mm bolts. I don't
remember
> > the thread count but it
> > is fine as opposed to
something else. Rick Pierce -
> > your idea on a puller is
> >
a good one. I have one of these but I was missing a
> > critical part
of it. It
> > would have helped immensely. On reassembly anti
>
> seize will definitely be
> > used. On re reading Jeff Lucius's web
page
> > instructions I note he talks
> > about the bolts but
does not mention the 10mm size.
> > He recs using bolts from
>
> the engine compartment. Frankly, these bolts got
> > pretty tight
and I am not
> > sure I would want to put them back in the
engine
> > compartment. One more tip.
> > I bought the bolts
from a NAPA store. The ones I got
> > were about an inch
> >
long. They worked, but I would get longer ones next
> > time. the wheel
studs
> > made it impossible to get a socket on the short
> >
ones. longer ones would
> > allow easier tightening. I am thinking the
right
> > length would be about 2
> > inches. Hope this helps
someone in the future.
> >
> > Andy Woll
> >
> Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com> '93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
>
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
>
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:22:31
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injector question
noble wrote:
> Hi
Everyone,
>
> Does anyone know what flow the Denso injector
#195500-0830 means?
> Is it a 550cc or a 720cc?
>
> Thanks in
advance,
> Noble
The 0830 PN is for 720s. Denso 720s will
either end in 0830 or 0900.
As to whether they actually flow 720cc/min check
out this thread:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=c8cdbfef2431123db640d3aff3455e3b&threadid=26840Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:44:00
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Injector question
Thanks for the heads up ---- I bought a set of used
720's and missed your
thread, I guess I'll have to have them
checked.
You refer to cleaning and balancing which implies they can be
adjusted
over some range, if so how is it done and what is the range
???????
Jim
Berry
==============================================
> noble
wrote:
>
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > Does anyone
know what flow the Denso injector #195500-0830 means?
> > Is it a 550cc
or a 720cc?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
Noble
>
> The 0830 PN is for 720s. Denso 720s will either end
in 0830 or 0900.
> As to whether they actually flow 720cc/min check out
this thread:
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=c8cdbfef2431123db640d3aff3455e3b&threadid=26840>
> Joe Gonsowski
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:01:43
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how to change xfer lube in 97 vr-4
I bought some redline to put
in my transfer case in my 1997 VR-4, but had a
problem trying to figure out
how to get the fill plug out.
It looks like the fill plug is right next
to the oxygen sensor, and I can't
get a socket on the plug with the oxygen
sensor in the way, and I am not
sure how to get the oxygen sensor
out.
Any suggestions ?
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:02:08
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: what socket needed for rear LSD Diff
I was going to put some red
line in my rear LSD Differential, but I do not
have a socket big enough to
fit the fill and drain plugs on my 1997 VR-4.
Anyone know what size to
use ?
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:32:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what socket needed for rear LSD Diff
Buy a set of 22 & 24
sockets and wrenches.
Those are the majority of all import LSD/tranny
sizes.
On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, anthonymelillo wrote:
> I was going
to put some red line in my rear LSD Differential, but I do not
> have a
socket big enough to fit the fill and drain plugs on my 1997 VR-4.
>
> Anyone know what size to use ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
>
anthonymelillo@home.com>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:32:02
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
how to change xfer lube in 97 vr-4
The fill plug on my 93TT transfer case
is towards the front of the car about
midway up on the case.---- It's 17mm
and you can use a box end wrench
if it hasn't been overtightned. I used a 6
point socket on mine because
somebody screwed it on too tight. I took a 6
point socket and ground two
flats on the side so I could use an open end
wrench to grip the socket.
Before you drain the old oil make sure
you can remove the fill plug,
nothing worse than an empty transfer case and
and a stuck fill hole.
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: anthonymelillo <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
Team 3S List Submissions <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 22, 2001 5:01 PM
Subject: Team3S: how to change xfer lube in 97
vr-4
> I bought some redline to put in my transfer case in my 1997
VR-4, but had a
> problem trying to figure out how to get the fill plug
out.
>
> It looks like the fill plug is right next to the oxygen
sensor, and I can't
> get a socket on the plug with the oxygen sensor in
the way, and I am not
> sure how to get the oxygen sensor out.
>
> Any suggestions ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
>
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:56:28
-0400
From: "F.B." <
logic316@technologist.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
Hi folks. I have a base model
1994 Dodge Stealth (SOHC), and I can't figure
out why the electric radiator
fan on the left side (in front of the engine
and air conditioner compressor)
never seems to turn on. The fan on the
right (in front of the
transmission) turns on normally when the engine warms
up, but so far, the
left-side fan only seems to be there for show. Does it
kick in only
when the engine is overheating or when the A.C. is overworked,
or might there
be a problem with the fan? My engine temperature has always
been normal
nevertheless.
Thanks for any help.
- - Frank
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 02:22:22
From: "Chris Porter" <
mrgotrocks@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Replacement
Does anyone know if a 94' or 95' stealth tt
engine would fit in a 92' tt?
I need to replace the motor, but the 92' motors
are $1000 more expensive
than 2nd gen. Any help would be
appreciated.
thx
Chris 92'Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:38:40
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Engine Replacement
The short answer is yes, it will fit. The long
answer is that you would
need to replace the downpipe, engine computer,
engine wiring harness and a
handful of small parts to make it work.
You're much better off just getting
a 92 engine in the first place. It
will save you a lot of hassle in the
long run. Good luck.
Jeff
V.
jeffv@1nce.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:58:25
-0400
From: Matthew Kyle Winters <
mwinters@vt.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Help:
questions on purchasing a VR4
I am looking into acquiring a '94 VR-4 with
only 28k miles on it. Those
miles, however, were driven extremely
hard! Any helpful insight into
things I should look for and/or be
cautious about would be greatly
appreciated!
Some things I have
noticed with the car:
The battery has been replaced with one that is too
small, however, this
doesn't seem to affect anything.
The
driver's side window has difficulty rolling up and down (any ideas?)
The
wheels have been re-chromed once, but are flaking again.
Paint job
isn't in great condition.
Interior is excellent.
Can you
notice the AWS in action?
Do VR4s have problems with the transmission
(crank-shaft walking) like the
Eclipse's? (What I currently have)
Any
replies would be immensely appreciated.
Thanks
Kyle
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 19:47:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: adams john <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
The same side on my 93 stealth
had this very ailment.
While I happened to have the radiator and fan
out
already I inspected it more closely and realized it
had seized up.
Virtually the only thing I did was to
work it loose by hand and it runs fine
now. Perhaps
this occurs from sitting or dirt accumulating in the
engine
compartment?
Anyway, that's one possibility to check along with
your
individual connections.
ciao,
john 93 es
- -----Original
Message-----
From: F.B. <
logic316@technologist.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, April 22, 2001 8:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator
fan
>
>Hi folks. I have a base model 1994 Dodge
Stealth
(SOHC), and I can't figure
>out why the electric radiator fan
on the left side
(in front of the engine
>and air conditioner
compressor) never seems to turn
on. The fan on the
>right (in
front of the transmission) turns on
normally when the engine warms
>up,
but so far, the left-side fan only seems to be
there for show. Does
it
>kick in only when the engine is overheating or when
the A.C. is
overworked,
>or might there be a problem with the fan? My
engine
temperature has always
>been normal nevertheless.
>Thanks
for any help.
>
>- Frank
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:10:36
-0400
From: "Logic 3:16" <
logic316@technologist.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
Thanks John. It is a bit
puzzling, because the left-side fan has been
non-functional since the car was
purchased. It's not seized, and the
connections are secure. But I
guess I'll take another look.
Take care,
- - Frank
-
----- Original Message -----
From: adams john <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:47 p
Subject: Re: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator
fan
> The same side on my 93 stealth had this very
ailment.
> While I happened to have the radiator and fan out
>
already I inspected it more closely and realized it
> had seized up.
Virtually the only thing I did was to
> work it loose by hand and it runs
fine now. Perhaps
> this occurs from sitting or dirt accumulating in
the
> engine compartment?
> Anyway, that's one possibility to check
along with
> your individual connections.
>
> ciao,
>
john 93 es
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: F.B. <
logic316@technologist.com>
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Sunday, April 22, 2001 8:56 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Non-functioning
radiator fan
>
>
> >
> >Hi folks. I have a
base model 1994 Dodge Stealth
> (SOHC), and I can't figure
> >out
why the electric radiator fan on the left side
> (in front of the
engine
> >and air conditioner compressor) never seems to turn
>
on. The fan on the
> >right (in front of the transmission) turns
on
> normally when the engine warms
> >up, but so far, the
left-side fan only seems to be
> there for show. Does it
>
>kick in only when the engine is overheating or when
> the A.C. is
overworked,
> >or might there be a problem with the fan? My
engine
> temperature has always
> >been normal
nevertheless.
> >Thanks for any help.
> >
> >-
Frank
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:18:16
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Non-functioning radiator fan
I haven't checked the circuits, but I
thought one of the fans was only on
when the A/C was on to cool the
condenser.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: F.B. <
logic316@technologist.com>
>
Hi folks. I have a base model 1994 Dodge Stealth (SOHC), and I can't
figure
> out why the electric radiator fan on the left side (in front of
the engine
> and air conditioner compressor) never seems to turn on.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:25:45
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
> Hi folks. I have a
base model 1994 Dodge Stealth
> (SOHC), and I can't figure out why the
electric
> radiator fan on the left side (in front of the engine
>
and air conditioner compressor) never seems to turn on.
Start the motor
and turn on the air conditioning. With the A/C turned on,
both fans
should be on. If it doesn't turn on with the A/C then it might be
a bad
fan motor or perhaps the wiring harness has come loose. Try
that
first...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:26:10
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
how to change xfer lube in 97 vr-4
I believe the correct hand wrench is
11/16 as well.
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> The fill plug on my 93TT
transfer case is towards the front of the car about
> midway up on the
case.---- It's 17mm and you can use a box end wrench
> if it hasn't been
overtightned. I used a 6 point socket on mine because
> somebody screwed
it on too tight. I took a 6 point socket and ground two
> flats on the
side so I could use an open end wrench to grip the socket.
>
> Before you drain the old oil make sure you can remove the fill
plug,
> nothing worse than an empty transfer case and and a stuck fill
hole.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =========================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: anthonymelillo <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
>
To: Team 3S List Submissions <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 5:01 PM
> Subject: Team3S: how to change xfer
lube in 97 vr-4
>
> > I bought some redline to put in my
transfer case in my 1997 VR-4, but had a
> > problem trying to figure
out how to get the fill plug out.
> >
> > It looks like the
fill plug is right next to the oxygen sensor, and I can't
> > get a
socket on the plug with the oxygen sensor in the way, and I am not
> >
sure how to get the oxygen sensor out.
> >
> > Any suggestions
?
> >
> > Anthony Melillo
> >
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:30:33
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: questions on purchasing a VR4
> The battery has been
replaced with one that is too
> small, however, this doesn't seem to
affect anything.
Probably not an issue. The stock
batteries are somewhat oversized to begin
with. As long as it can start
up the car in your climate it shouldn't be a
problem.
> The
driver's side window has difficulty rolling up and down (any ideas?)
If
the interior door panel was ever removed (speaker work, etc.) it was
probably
reinstalled incorrectly. There are a set of metal clips on the top
of
the trim panel that need to be inserted in little slots on the door.
If
they aren't in the slots right, it pushes the trim farther towards
the
outside of the door, binding the window glass. Easy fix if that's
the
problem.
> Can you notice the AWS in action?
If you
aren't familiar with it, you probably won't notice it. If you have
to
see it work, put the car on a lift or on jackstands and accelerate the
car to
around 40 MPH and turn the wheels. The rears should turn very
slightly
in the same direction the fronts are (ie: you turn the wheel left,
the rear
wheels turn left a touch).
> Do VR4s have problems with the
transmission (crank-shaft walking)
> like the Eclipse's? (What I currently
have)
No. The bottom end on these cars is pretty stout.
(Thank God!)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:35:00
-0400
From: "Logic 3:16" <
logic316@technologist.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
OK. I'll try that
tomorrow. If so, it's a pretty wierd design; you would
think
getting some extra cooling by having both fans run at the same time
would be
a good thing. I don't see how saving 1/2 amp or so by keeping one
fan
shut off is that beneficial, especially since both these little plastic
fans
put together wouldn't equal the cooling capacity of a single old-style
belt
driven fan. Maybe someday I'll consider running them on the
same
circuit? Hmmmm.......
- - Frank
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
'F.B.' <
logic316@technologist.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:25 p
Subject: RE: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator
fan
> > Hi folks. I have a base model 1994 Dodge
Stealth
> > (SOHC), and I can't figure out why the electric
>
> radiator fan on the left side (in front of the engine
> > and air
conditioner compressor) never seems to turn on.
>
> Start the motor
and turn on the air conditioning. With the A/C turned on,
> both
fans should be on. If it doesn't turn on with the A/C then it
might
be
> a bad fan motor or perhaps the wiring harness has come
loose. Try that
> first...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:52:19
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Non-functioning radiator fan
> OK. I'll try that
tomorrow. If so, it's a
> pretty wierd design; you would think
getting
> some extra cooling by having both fans run at
> the same
time would be a good thing. I don't
> see how saving 1/2 amp or so
by keeping one fan
> shut off is that beneficial, especially since
>
both these little plastic fans put together
> wouldn't equal the cooling
capacity of a
> single old-style belt driven fan. Maybe
>
someday I'll consider running them on the
> same circuit?
Hmmmm.......
If I remember right, there's a thermosensor connected to the
driver's side
fan that does turn it on if the coolant temperature gets hot
enough. So,
you do use it when the car needs it in hot weather or if
you have your foot
heavy on the gas. There's an optimum coolant
temperature range for best
engine performance, and keeping the one fan off
until needed helps the motor
get to that temperature easier to keep fuel
economy good. If the
temperature drops below that (I think* the number
is 170-175 degrees F.)
then the ECU starts injecting additional fuel
(emulating a carburetor
"choke") to try to warm up the motor.
On a
base-model 3/S the cooling system should be way more than adequate.
Its only
marginal on extreme-use twin-turbo cars as far as I've heard.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:47:24
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: how to remove armorall prior to installing Carbon Fiber Dash
Just
some isopropyl alcohol will work fine. My CF dash kit came with
this
surface prep stick that had a main ingredient of Hexane which I doubt
you
will find in any store. I did try to use it to clean a cd and it
ate right
through the plastic coating on it, but it didn't seem to harm the
dash at
all. Alcohol should do fine in removing the old greasy armour
all.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
Team 3S List Submissions <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, April 21, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: how to remove armorall
prior to installing Carbon Fiber
Dash
>I just purchased one of
those Carbon Fiber Dash kits, and have a question
on
>preparing the
surface.
>
>I have a lot of Armorall protectant on my dash and was
wondering what I
>could use to get that off so the kit will stick
?
>
>Thanks
>
>Anthony
Melillo
>anthonymelillo@home.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 01:27:46
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
I drove from Cleveland, OH, to Atlanta,
GA, with the speedo usually at
90mph, on a spare and didn't have a
problem. It was rather hot to the
touch
though.
Michael
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 13:36
> To: 'Schilberg, Darren'; Willis,
Charles E.; Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: learn from my
mistake
>
>
> The speed limit on my temporaries is printed 50
mph. How well does
> fix-a-flat work on bent wheel
rims?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Schilberg, Darren [SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
> > Sent: Thursday,
April 19, 2001 9:12 AM
> > To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; Team3S
>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
> >
> > I also
learned a similar lesson and that is to ALWAYS carry
> at least
two
> > cans of Fix-a-Flat or similar product. This will
fill
> every hole I've
> > ever
> > had in a tire long
enough to get to a service station.
> They claim 50
> >
miles
> > but it can be taken much MUCH farther in an
emergency.
> >
> > This will not repair a hole in the sidewall
of a tire so be
> careful as
> > sometimes only those large plugs
will do the trick.
> Fortunately, the
> > stock
> >
245/40/18 tires have a fairly small sidewall so most
> punctures will
occur
> > in
> > the tread.
> >
> > I do
keep my spare tire aired up and have had a full-size spare for
> >
several
> > months since I do not use the trunk. This is great
peace
> of mind since I
> > would not be limited to the 45 mph
recommended speed that
> the spare is.
> >
> > Oh yeah
... some Fix-a-flat cans say that they are NOT
> recommended for
>
> Z-rated or performance tire applications. Read the label.
>
>
> > --Flash!
> >
dschilberg@pobox.com> >
>
> 3Si #577
> > 1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar,
Sparco Evo
> race seat,
> > Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a
custom spark plug plate
> >
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Willis, Charles
E.
> [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> > Sent:
Thursday, April 19, 2001 9:32 AM
> > To: Team3S
> > Subject:
Team3S: learn from my mistake
> >
> > I think somebody posted
a similar warning a couple of
> months back. When
> >
was
> > the last time you checked the air pressure in your
>
temporary spare tire?
> >
> > I hit a pothole at about 10 mph
yesterday in my '93 VR4 and
> deflated a
> > tire.
> >
When I went to change to the temporary spare, I checked the
>
pressure: 10
> > psi instead of 60 psi! Then as I was
filling it up, I
> started wondering
> > what the pressure was in
the temporary spare in my '94 VR4:
> 10psi! I was
> >
in town close to a filling station and had a spare car and
> cell
phone. I
> > wonder how high my blood pressure would have gone if
this
> had happened out
> > in the boondocks somewhere?
>
>
> > As many times as a adjust air pressure in my tires, it
>
could have taken
> > about 30 seconds to check either of these spares,
but
> somehow, it never
> > occurred to me as being
important.
> >
> > Ignore this message at your own
risk.
> >
> > Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 01:29:10
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
A gear puller works well
also.
Michael
98 VR4
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Sam Shelat
> Sent:
Thursday, April 19, 2001 17:01
> To: cody; Team3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotors are really on there
>
>
> If you are hard up,
use one of the bolts or two that hold
> your rear muffler
> up in
the air-its the same thread pattern (these are the
> bolts on the
rubber
> hangers) . Or you can go to Pep-boys or autozone and
buy
> their cheapest
> wheel puller. I randomly bought the
cheapest one and the
> bolts that came
> with it fit no
problem. Don't put just one in and keep
> turning though.
Put
> two in and start threading them down and keep alternating.
> If the rotors
> are on as tight as mine were, you might just rip
the threads
> right out of
> the rotor and then your going to have
to create your own
> removal tool. Mine
> consisted of a T
mad of 2x4s and a pair of spring compressors (or huge
> c-clamps). I
put the bottom of the T on the center hub and put the
> compressors from
the back of the rotor on each side to the
> top of the T and
> kept
tightening until the rotor finally popped off. I almost
> broke the
2x4
> in half!
>
> Sam
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: cody <
overclck@starband.net>
> To:
Team3S <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Thursday, April 19, 2001 5:16 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rotors are
really on there
>
>
> >I had a hard time trying to use
the bolt method once FINALLY
> finding the
> right size bolt to fit
in there. I honestly had better luck
> POUNDING THE
> CRAP
out of my rotors. All four were pretty damn hard. The
> rears
were a
> bit easier than the fronts though. I SOAKED mine in
> penetrating oil like
> all day long before even attempting
~either~ method of removing them.
> Finally, when the little bolt attempt
failed, I just found a
> REAL BIG rubber
> mallet, and beat on the
stupid rotor, two nice hard hits,
> then rotate 90
> degrees, then
repeat. they finally came off, after about two whole
>
revolutions... I used ALOT of force.
> >
>
>-Cody
> >
> >#> It is a standard metric bolt. I
don't recall the size. However
> >#last time I
> >#>
removed my rotors, I used one of the bolts on the front caliper,
> >#I
think it
> >#> was one of the bolts that hold the two halves
together. It was
> >#the correct
> >#> size.
Just thread it into the rotor and it will loosen
> it. Just
don't
> >#> forget to torque it correctly when you replace it back
in
> the caliper.
> >#>
> >#> Good luck,
>
>#> Ken
> >#>
> >#> > I got the wheel off. No
Problem.
> >#> > I got the brake off. No problem.
>
>#> > I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff Lucius'
> page
on changing
> >#> rotors.
> >#> > It says you really
have to pound in order get the rotors off.
> >#Well, I have
>
>#> > pounded -- and pounded. For an hour. And the rotor is
>
getting the last
> >#> > laught.
> >#> > I notice
that both rotors have two little holes about 1/4 inch
> >#diam.
One
> >#> of
> >#> > these is threaded. Does anyone
know the size of the bolt that
> >#will go into
> >#> >
this little hole. Maybe putting a bolt in the hole and
> using it
to
> give
> >#> > leverage against the hub will force it to
break loose.
> Any suggestions
> >#> would
> >#>
> be much appreciated.
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:54:46
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: questions on purchasing a VR4
Check the 1-2
synchro. If it was driven hard then on launches it was most
likely
ripped into second gear. Notoriously easily-shreddable synchros are
a
problem. Have someone check out the tranny and ask them to look for
metal
bits in the tranny housing down in the oil remains. Also have
them look at
the clutch, flywheel, etc. for an idea if it was launched hard
for those
miles.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
Second tranny in after I shredded the 1-2 synchro on a hard
shift
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Kyle Winters
[mailto:mwinters@vt.edu]
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:58 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Help: questions on purchasing a VR4
I am looking into acquiring a
'94 VR-4 with only 28k miles on it. Those
miles, however, were driven
extremely hard! Any helpful insight into
things I should look for
and/or be cautious about would be greatly
appreciated!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:09:22
-0600
From: "Jorge Ramirez" <
jorger@elp.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Hub Cap Wheel Problem
Hello,
I've been receiving and reading from
the list the past couple of months and
have found it very informative, but
one thing that I wished I had found in
the archives I have not. Recently on
my '94 Dodge Stealth base model, the
one hubcap has begun to peel off while
the other one has fallen off
completely. When it had fallen off completely,
the entire steel wheel was
visible. I noticed that it seemed there was some
type of glue holding the
hubcap onto the rim, but it's a question I'm not
ready to bet the cost of a
replacement on at this time. So my wondering is,
how was the hubcap
originally held on and if gluing back on with some silicon
will be good
enough? Thanks for all your help...
-
-George
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:28:13
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Water-Cooled TURBO
Does anyone know of a source for Water-Cooled turbos
and a retrofit kit for
1991 Stealth/3000 GT?
Thor
Holth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:46:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: injector
Was the gap on the #1 spark plug any different from
the others? It's my
impression that when you take the plugs out, one
cylinder is going to have
fuel in it (it's a four stroke engine). Glaze
on the insulator in a new
engine is another thing. I didn't think
injectors "stuck open". I thought
they actively squirt fuel in.
The two failure modes I'm familiar with are
not squirting any (or enough)
fuel, and dribbling instead of squirting
(dirty injector).
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: GREG RUSH
[SMTP:rush@siscom.net]
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:34 AM
>
To:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: injector
>
> While changing my plugs I got a good
look down into the top of the
> valves and noticed the #1 valves were wet
and I wiped with a rag and it
> smells like gas. The #1 plug also had a
glaze on the insulator.The car
> is not running up to snuff. Do I have
leaking valve guides and the oil
> residue just smells like gas or a bad
injecctor? Or if the plug is
> fouled the fuel is not burning.This
is a brand new motor with new
> valves, guides and seals. If its an
injector stuck open wouldnt the fuel
> evaporate instesd of sitting on the
valves while I am working on the
> plug change.Also noticed a
pinging/knocking sound while accelerating
> kind of sounds like a old
chevy motor with a stuck lifter but not as
> loud. My MSD knock sensor
does not detect it nor did the TMO.
> RUSHVR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:50:35
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Water-Cooled TURBO
Our turbos are already water (and oil)
cooled.
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
Does anyone know of a source for Water-Cooled turbos and a
retrofit kit for
1991 Stealth/3000 GT?
Thor Holth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:36:18
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help: questions on purchasing a VR4
- ----- Original Message
----- From: "Matthew Kyle Winters" <
mwinters@vt.edu>
> I am looking into
acquiring a '94 VR-4 with only 28k miles on it. Those
miles, however,
were driven extremely hard! Any helpful insight into things
I should
look for and/or be cautious about would be greatly appreciated!
Some things I
have noticed with the car:
> The battery has been replaced with one that
is too small, however, this
doesn't seem to affect anything.
> Paint
job isn't in great condition.
> Interior is excellent.
-
--------------snips-------------
"Driven hard" is probably a good thing,
unless you have indications that it
was "abused". These are performance
cars, and they fare better by being
"wound out" every once in a while than by
being babied by proverbial 'old
ladies'. What makes you think it was
"driven hard"? Pebble dings and door
dings (made by careless shoppers
in parking lots) are simply a fact of life.
But the clean interior suggests
an owner who "cared", and makes "abuse" less
likely. Go to a dealer and
ask them to research the car's maintenance and
repair history - be sure to
point out that you will be a customer soon and
that you're shopping for a
good dealer as well as a good car.
If the battery was switched for one of
the smaller, 'marine style' types,
that's a good sign - it means that the
owner either has some kind of car
savvy, or reads about it in car mags on the
net (maybe even belongs to a
support group such as Team3S). Speaking of
which, there are enough of us
(who have been on these lists for many years)
that it's a good bet we
already *know* the car and/or owner. You might
want to share with us the
car's color and State you come from, in case one of
us recognizes it. BTW,
one of the small 'gel cell' batteries is just as
good as (or better than)
the OEM battery - it shows that the owner either
wanted to upgrade or
conserve on weight. If shaving a few pounds was
important to him/her, was
the car raced? Even the name of the battery
may give you a hint about what
the car was used for, since one type of gel
cell is favored by drag racers
and another by road racers. Or if it has
a custom stereo, such batteries
are often recommended by audio
shops...
Good luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#473
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