team3s
Sunday, April 22
2001
Volume 01 : Number
472
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:34:16 -0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
injector
While changing my plugs I got a good look down into the top of
the
valves and noticed the #1 valves were wet and I wiped with a rag and
it
smells like gas. The #1 plug also had a glaze on the insulator.The
car
is not running up to snuff. Do I have leaking valve guides and the
oil
residue just smells like gas or a bad injecctor? Or if the plug
is
fouled the fuel is not burning.This is a brand new motor with
new
valves, guides and seals. If its an injector stuck open wouldnt the
fuel
evaporate instesd of sitting on the valves while I am working on
the
plug change.Also noticed a pinging/knocking sound while
accelerating
kind of sounds like a old chevy motor with a stuck lifter but
not as
loud. My MSD knock sensor does not detect it nor did the
TMO.
RUSHVR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:43:34
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Still running hot
Rich,
As a last resort, as someone else
mentioned, this might be a sign of some
other internal problem, i.e. turbo
bearing, air conditioner compressor, etc.
Depending on the miles on your car,
and assuming this isn't a temp.
gage/temp. sending unit problem, closer
inspection of the engine and
drivetrain outside of the cooling system might
be warranted. With as much
track time as I'm assuming this engine has
seen, as with any racing engine,
it might be time for a tear down and
inspection.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
NetZero Platinum
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Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 12:38:13
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
injector
I disconected the tube that connects the 2 fuel rails in order
to swap
injectors 1 & 3 for trouble shooting the injector in a different
cylinder.
But very little fuel came out just a small trickle. If I had a
injector
stuck open could this have caused the lack of fuel spraying
out under
pressure due to it leaking out the injector and onto the back side
of the
valves. I would have expected a lot of fuel under
pressure.
rushvr4
GREG RUSH wrote:
> While changing my plugs
I got a good look down into the top of the
> valves and noticed the #1
valves were wet and I wiped with a rag and it
> smells like gas. The #1
plug also had a glaze on the insulator.The car
> is not running up to
snuff. Do I have leaking valve guides and the oil
> residue just smells
like gas or a bad injecctor? Or if the plug is
> fouled the fuel is
not burning.This is a brand new motor with new
> valves, guides and seals.
If its an injector stuck open wouldnt the fuel
> evaporate instesd of
sitting on the valves while I am working on the
> plug change.Also noticed
a pinging/knocking sound while accelerating
> kind of sounds like a old
chevy motor with a stuck lifter but not as
> loud. My MSD knock sensor
does not detect it nor did the TMO.
> RUSHVR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:34:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Still running hot
A bearing would not run hot.
It
would fail..pretty much instantly in a turbo.
Theres no room for
kinda-failed at 130,000rpm.
On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Trent wrote:
>
Rich,
>
> As a last resort, as someone else mentioned, this might
be a sign of some
> other internal problem, i.e. turbo bearing, air
conditioner compressor, etc.
> Depending on the miles on your car, and
assuming this isn't a temp.
> gage/temp. sending unit problem, closer
inspection of the engine and
> drivetrain outside of the cooling system
might be warranted. With as much
> track time as I'm assuming this
engine has seen, as with any racing engine,
> it might be time for a tear
down and inspection.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:05:42
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BRAKES...rotate rotors?
Hi Mike,
> I was searching
through the past posts for the discussion on whether
turning
> the
rotors is OK or not. I get terrible vibrations when I brake
lately
(not
> only highway but even in city). The steering wheel
shakes so bad that I
> need to stop driving the car until I solve the
issue. I suspect my rotors
> are WARPED. So, should I
rotate/turn them? The 95 VR4 has 43K.
Turn them as long as they are
over minimum spec.
> I would use a racing pad such as the Portefield
RS4 pad with either one or
a
> racing pad that my brother has (the name
escapes me, but it was
reccomended
> by KEN MIDDAUGH).
Those are
the Weston race pads that John Christian recommended. They feel
great
on the street and don't need any warm-up time to stop great. I
didn't
use them on the street for very long so I don't know how long they
will last
on the street.
>
> The main question about the
above setup is whether slotted is better than
> not slotted, all other
things being equal?
Slotted rotors are supposed to provide better
stopping force for two
reasons: 1) they continually "slice" off the
"old" surface of the pad; 2)
the slots allow an escape route for gases
that can build between the rotor
and pad during extreme braking and
temperatures. #1 causes the pads to wear
out quickly
though.
> Basically this is mainly a street car/everyday, even a
winter car. I need
> reliability from my brakes all year long, and
also need to be able to do
> high speed stops in case I need to slow down
from 160+. Basically, my
setup
> needs to be able to work in the
cold (sub 0 deg) and heat of summer (100+
> deg F) and withstand the high
temps. I know I can't expect anyone of the
I don't know how well
the Weston race pads will work at sub 0 degrees, but
they would probably be
fine. Slotted rotors would also be fine. The real
decision you
have to ask is whether you are willing to replace the pads and
rotors more
often since they will wear out quicker.
Good
luck,
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 14:52:06
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how to remove armorall prior to installing Carbon Fiber Dash
I
just purchased one of those Carbon Fiber Dash kits, and have a question
on
preparing the surface.
I have a lot of Armorall protectant on my
dash and was wondering what I
could use to get that off so the kit will stick
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 15:39:58
-0400
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????
Thanks guys,
Got it barely
into spec's on the right rear camber but the cams were broken and need
some
work.Will get to that when I lower the car.went ahead and did the front
as well,it was
out worse than I would have thought,as the car drove good and
no tire wear.Gonna take
alot of modding to lower this one.Not near as easy as
the Base or R/T.THANKS AGAIN,
RICK
Rick wrote:
> Thanks
Willis, Geoff,
> This all wheel steer is all new to me,and I didn't
see the toe adjuster till I had
> tried to do it with the tie rods, as you
would with a front end.Should have asked for
> help first!Thanks
much,
> RICK
>
> Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> > You
disconnect the tie rods fromthe spindle completely, align the car,
> >
then adjust the tie rods to drop into the spindle.
> >
> > The
steering rods just ride along..they dont adjust anything.
> >
>
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Rick wrote:
> >
> > > Ok
got that,but what do you do with the tie rod ends as far as adjustment
after
> > > that,just adjust them with the wheels straight on till
they drop back in ,or do
> > > they have an
adjustment?
> > > RICK
> > >
> > > "Willis,
Charles E." wrote:
> > >
> > > > When you adjust the
toe on the rear, you will have to disconnect the tie rod
> > > >
linkages for the All Wheel Steering, assuming the '92 Stealth has that.
>
> > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > > > From: Rick [SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
> > > >
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:57 PM
> > > > >
To: Stealth;
stealth@starnet.net> > > >
> Subject: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT
?????
> > > > >
> > > > > Thought I
new all about alinging the rear of a car till I screwed this
> > >
> > one up!Can some one give me the spec's.for a '92 R/T TT Rear.I
Was
> > > > > trying to set the toe with the tie rod ends,
till I found the adjustment
> > > > > cams on the front
control arm,and now have the that out and can't find
> > > > >
spec's on what to set it to.I don't see a problem now with the toe our
>
> > > > camber,but need to set the rear steering up to spec's.Does
anyone have a
> > > > > how that can help me?
> >
> > > THANKS,RICK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 00:24:09
+0200
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Subject:
Team3S: lights
Hi!
I would like to buy set of bulb with a
litle higher wattage, but not as
high to overheat lamps. Can you recommend me
some bulbs (some URL's), i need
very white, or daylight like light,
eventually HID kit's.
regards
Andrzej Artymowicz
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.plPoland
tel.
+48 601 250368 C
tel. +48 22 6715375 H
'95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA,
DOHC, 5-speed) 40000mi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:54:26
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Still running hot
Geoff,
I don't know how many turbo
bearings you have had fail, but one turbo on my
last 300Z TT failed over a
period of months. Initially the bearing allowed
enough radial clearance
for the impeller to rub on the housing resulting in
a squeeling sound as the
engine was warming up. This started out as barely
noticeable and
eventually turned into can't be ignored. As a mechanical
designer, I'm
way past presuming how something as complex as a turbo will
fail in every
circumstance.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- --- Original Message
-----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
Trent <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Cc: Team 3S
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 21, 2001 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running
hot
> A bearing would not run hot.
>
> It would
fail..pretty much instantly in a turbo.
>
> Theres no room for
kinda-failed at 130,000rpm.
>
> On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Trent
wrote:
>
> > Rich,
> >
> > As a last resort, as
someone else mentioned, this might be a sign of
some
> > other
internal problem, i.e. turbo bearing, air conditioner
compressor,
etc.
> > Depending on the miles on your car, and
assuming this isn't a temp.
> > gage/temp. sending unit problem, closer
inspection of the engine and
> > drivetrain outside of the cooling
system might be warranted. With as
much
> > track time as I'm
assuming this engine has seen, as with any racing
engine,
> > it
might be time for a tear down and inspection.
> >
> >
Regards,
> > DaveT/92TT
> >
> >
> > NetZero
Platinum
> > No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
> > Sign Up
Today - Only $9.95 per month!
> >
http://www.netzero.net>
>
---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
>
California, USA
>
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:36:30
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Still running hot
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>
To: Barry E.
King <
beking@home.com>
Date:
Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running
hot
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Barry E. King
<
beking@home.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Friday, April 20, 2001 11:00 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Still running
hot
>
>
>
>>Other possibilities (not tried these
myself yet):
>>- larger oil cooler
>>- possibly use external
oil sump for more
volume
>>
>------------------------------------------------------------------
>I
am not having overheating problems but
>have been interested in adding a
larger than stock
>oil cooler for some time. I have of course
already
>located the stock cooler to the front of the car.
>(driver's side of center)
>
>There doesn't seem to be much
room for a larger coolers
>between the brackets/bracing running in front
of the radiator.
>
>Might be able to use one about the same width
only longer?
>
>If anyone has done this - what size and how was the
fit?
>
>- tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:27:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BRAKES...rotate rotors?
> Slotted rotors are supposed to
provide better stopping force for two
> reasons: 1) they continually
"slice" off the "old" surface of the pad; 2)
> the slots allow an
escape route for gases that can build between the rotor
> and pad during
extreme braking and temperatures. #1 causes the pads to wear
> out
quickly though.
- ---
A good racing pad..does not gas. A slotted
rotor doesnt slice, but will
chew away any glazing that will form as a high
spot on the pad. The slot
will also add a biting surface for the pad to
initially grip on. My
Celica enjoys 40 slots per side of each
rotor. Pedal resonse is -hard-
and -instant-. Of course, its also
a 6-piston caliper ona 13" rotor.
> they would probably be
fine. Slotted rotors would also be fine. The real
> decision
you have to ask is whether you are willing to replace the pads and
>
rotors more often since they will wear out quicker.
- ---
Porterfield pads
will last quite some time on the street, a PROPERLY
treated rotor (cryo) will
last probly the lifetime of the car on the
street.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:29:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Still running hot
Good point.
Let me expand by saying
a dying turbo doesnt run hotter, it performs
poorer.
On Sat, 21 Apr
2001, bdtrent wrote:
> Geoff,
>
> I don't know how many
turbo bearings you have had fail, but one turbo on my
> last 300Z TT
failed over a period of months. Initially the bearing allowed
>
enough radial clearance for the impeller to rub on the housing resulting
in
> a squeeling sound as the engine was warming up. This started
out as barely
> noticeable and eventually turned into can't be
ignored. As a mechanical
> designer, I'm way past presuming how
something as complex as a turbo will
> fail in every circumstance.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> --- Original Message
-----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
To: Trent <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
> Cc: Team
3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 12:34 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Still
running hot
>
>
> > A bearing would not run hot.
>
>
> > It would fail..pretty much instantly in a turbo.
>
>
> > Theres no room for kinda-failed at 130,000rpm.
>
>
> > On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Trent wrote:
> >
> >
> Rich,
> > >
> > > As a last resort, as someone else
mentioned, this might be a sign of
> some
> > > other internal
problem, i.e. turbo bearing, air conditioner compressor,
> etc.
>
> > Depending on the miles on your car, and assuming this isn't a
temp.
> > > gage/temp. sending unit problem, closer inspection of
the engine and
> > > drivetrain outside of the cooling system might
be warranted. With as
> much
> > > track time as I'm
assuming this engine has seen, as with any racing
> engine,
> >
> it might be time for a tear down and inspection.
> > >
>
> > Regards,
> > > DaveT/92TT
> >
> >
---
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 10:25:46
EDT
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Spare tire (now: Need 95 18" VR4 Chrome rim)
OK, I'll
bite.
I'm looking in my Mitchell's part book and they only list one 18"
rim from
95-99. How is your's different? Do you have any
pics?
Ron
In a message dated 4/20/2001 5:20:41 PM Eastern Daylight
Time,
aa2345@wayne.edu
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: RE: Spare tire
(now: Need 95 18" VR4 Chrome rim)
Date: 4/20/2001 5:20:41
PM Eastern Daylight Time
From:
aa2345@wayne.edu Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Paul,
I
have a 95 VR4 also and I managed to dent one of the Right rims. I ordered
a new rim from Connicelly Mitsu, and they sent me the one from the 96+
cars.
The difference between the 2 rim is so subtle that it
took me 3 months to
notice that I have been driving on the wrong rim
(same dimensions-->8.5x18
chrome rim).
I just
wanted to tell you that I need another rim. If you ever choose to
get
other rims (lighter, nicer...) for your car, then I would like to have
a rim
from the right side. I'll pay a reasonable amount.
Then I can turn around
and sell my 96+ 18 chrome rim (I believe the
VR4s had the same rims from
96-99).
This offer
goes for anyone else that wants to sell a rim or needs to buy a
rim.
Thanks for listening.
MIKE
95 Red VR4
3 stock 18" chrome rims and one 96+
18" chrome rim
if you don't look careful enough, you can't
notice.
>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 11:57:43
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Spare tire (now: Need 95 18" VR4 Chrome
rim)
Troy,
I'm not looking to make a profit on this wheel. I
bought it from Connicelli
Mitsu for$526.79 + shiping after discount (part no.
MR 197761). I cannot
give it to you just yet because I have to have a
regular wheel in its place.
I only drove it 3 monts so far so it's
practically new. So, I can sell it
to you for whatever I can get
another 95 18" Chrome rim for.
Anyway, before we get any more excited, we
have to really doublecheck that
my wheel is the same as your 96 VR4. I
can take some pictures, or if you
have a website, send me to it to lok @ your
car. You can go to my website,
but the car has the 95 wheels on.
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/~iraicu/personal/cars/main_personal_cars_95.htmYou
have to look really careful to notice the difference. Your 96
wheels
should have an indentation in the spokes and your spokes are
slightly
skinnier.
I'll send a picture of the new 18" chrome wheel to
you and the list by
tomorrow.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
RDO26@aol.com [mailto:RDO26@aol.com]
>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:26 AM
> To:
aa2345@mail1.wayne.edu> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Spare tire (now: Need 95 18" VR4 Chrome
rim)
>
>
> OK, I'll bite.
>
> I'm looking in my
Mitchell's part book and they only list one 18"
> rim from
> 95-99.
How is your's different? Do you have any pics?
>
>
Ron
>
> In a message dated 4/20/2001 5:20:41 PM Eastern Daylight
Time,
>
aa2345@wayne.edu
writes:
>
> From:
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>
Paul,
>
> I have a 95 VR4 also and I managed to dent one of
the Right
> rims. I ordered
> a new rim from Connicelly
Mitsu, and they sent me the one from
> the 96+ cars.
>
>
The difference between the 2 rim is so subtle that it took me 3
> months
to
> notice that I have been driving on the wrong rim (same
>
dimensions-->8.5x18
> chrome rim).
>
> I just
wanted to tell you that I need another rim. If you ever
> choose
to
> get
> other rims (lighter, nicer...) for your car, then I
would like
> to have a rim
> from the right side. I'll
pay a reasonable amount. Then I can
> turn around
> and
sell my 96+ 18 chrome rim (I believe the VR4s had the same rims
from
> 96-99).
>
> This offer goes for anyone else
that wants to sell a rim or
> needs to buy a
>
rim.
>
> Thanks for listening.
>
>
MIKE
> 95 Red VR4
> 3 stock 18" chrome rims and one 96+
18" chrome rim
> if you don't look careful enough, you can't
notice.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#472
*********************