- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:45:45 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still running hot

At 12:46 PM 4/20/01 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>AHH!!!!
>Put the undertray _back on_.
>That creates a scavenging effect at the back of the motor, which helps
>pull air thru the front of the car.
>
I had the same problem last year with the undertray on. I took this one off
because it was so broken up from hitting driveways and curbs. I was
thinking about fabricating a sheet metal underpan to protect my
intercoolers and stuff. Think this would achieve the same scavenging effect
as the stock undertray.

And while I'm on that subject....The Z08 Vette had the neatest air dam. It
was a hinged piece of hard rubber that extended down about three inches.
The dam was in three sections. If the car hit anything, the air dam would
just fold back until the obstacle was past, and then the spring loaded
hinge would put it down again. If we put such an air dam under the car,
what would that do to the flow of cooling air through the radiator?

Rich

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:04:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still running hot

> intercoolers and stuff. Think this would achieve the same scavenging effect
> as the stock undertray.
- ---
Yep, that'd do it.

> what would that do to the flow of cooling air through the radiator?
- ---
There is no cooling air under the radiator it has to go THROUGH it.

This solve to reduce turbulence under the car, and create less of a
high-pressure area under the car to allow it go faster with less HP
expended.

The lower & smoother the underbody is, the better.

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:01:39 EDT
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Changing tranny fluid?

I was wanting to know where the fill plug is for the tranny. I think it is
where the over-flow tube from the dipstick tube goes into the tranny. Am I
right?...if not I would greatly appreciate someone leading me in the right
direction.

Nathan
94 SL

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:07:00 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: running too hot

I don't know if its available, but our cars don't carry much oil. If there
is a larger volume crankcase that would carry, say 7 or 8 quarts of oil, it
would give a lot more cooling capacity to the engine. Alternatively, maybe
an add on oil cooler would work, but I don't see much of a place to put one.
I read the advice about distilled water and redline water wetter. I use
watter wetter here in Sacramento (where we get a lot of over 100 days in the
summer). Redline helps. What is the effect of having pure distilled water in
the cooling system with regard to rust, corrosion, etc?

Andy

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:38:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: running too hot

The oil cooler is behind the drivers side IC.

Ive not noticed that the car runs too high of an oil temp, the pressures
have remained stable in my car in the same conditions.

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Andrew D. Woll wrote:

> watter wetter here in Sacramento (where we get a lot of over 100 days in the
> summer). Redline helps. What is the effect of having pure distilled water in
> the cooling system with regard to rust, corrosion, etc?
- ---
None, read the bottle.

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:35:56 -0400
From: "Derek Florence" <obsession1@email.msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT Question!

1992 3000GT VR4 with 53,000 miles on it! Altered Atmosphere in MD is saying
I have bad Rod Knocking and the engine needs a rebuild they are saying about
$4,000 for the rebuild their! Is this a reasonable price or to much? Anyone
else had this problem at low mileage! Any recommendations in MD for work
like a possible rebuild! Trying to keep the price as low as possible. Any
help would be appreciated! Thanks
Derek Florence

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:51:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000GT Question!

Not bad since a new crank is $1000.

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Derek Florence wrote:

> 1992 3000GT VR4 with 53,000 miles on it! Altered Atmosphere in MD is saying
> I have bad Rod Knocking and the engine needs a rebuild they are saying about
> $4,000 for the rebuild their! Is this a reasonable price or to much? Anyone
> else had this problem at low mileage! Any recommendations in MD for work
> like a possible rebuild! Trying to keep the price as low as possible. Any
> help would be appreciated! Thanks
> Derek Florence

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 22:43:53 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl $RTEC$" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: running too hot

Just an idea but I'd do a good engine flush to make sure fresh oil is able
to circulate properly through the lines.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:18:35 GMT
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: RE: Spare tire (now: Need 95 18" VR4 Chrome rim)

Paul,

I have a 95 VR4 also and I managed to dent one of the Right rims. I ordered
a new rim from Connicelly Mitsu, and they sent me the one from the 96+ cars.
The difference between the 2 rim is so subtle that it took me 3 months to
notice that I have been driving on the wrong rim (same dimensions-->8.5x18
chrome rim).

I just wanted to tell you that I need another rim. If you ever choose to get
other rims (lighter, nicer...) for your car, then I would like to have a rim
from the right side. I'll pay a reasonable amount. Then I can turn around
and sell my 96+ 18 chrome rim (I believe the VR4s had the same rims from
96-99).

This offer goes for anyone else that wants to sell a rim or needs to buy a
rim.

Thanks for listening.

MIKE
95 Red VR4
3 stock 18" chrome rims and one 96+ 18" chrome rim
if you don't look careful enough, you can't notice.

> From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Spare tire
....snip
> Its use was necessitated by the blowout I had going 75 on the freeway. Since
> then, I have discovered that the rim on the tire that blew out was bent in
> the process. Is there anybody out there that repairs rims such as ours?
> (factory 18" chrome) Is there any good reason to spend money fixing this set
> of rims? I actually prefer the non-chrome look, like my 17" Mille Miglia
> Spider rims I use with snow tires. I'd even consider 18" rims identical to
> these.
......snip
> - --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4

- ---------------------------------------------
This message does not necessarily reflect the views
or opinions of the WSU Library System.
Visit us on the web at http://www.lib.wayne.edu/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:59:06 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Track Report--Marshalltown

The first event of the season -- the ROWGs went over to Marshalltown,
rented the track, and five of us spent the afternoon turning laps on street
tires and street brakes. My daughter and I ran about 60 miles, or 100 laps.
It was a warmup, nothing serious. Still, the major findings from this
session of on-track research are:

o Negative camber really reduces tire wear
o The custom no-backpressure catback exhaust seems to help

The only mod on my car since the last time I went to M'town is the custom
catback exhaust. The car seems to leap off the corners better in 2nd gear,
perhaps because it has faster throttle response and faster turbo spoolup. I
can't find my post from last year when I reported my lap times but, as I
recall, I was in the mid 40s on the Kuhmos and Blue pads. This time, my
best lap was a 42.18 on street Michelin Pilots and street brakes. If race
tires and brakes are good for 2 seconds a lap, then it looks like the
custom exhaust helped pick up a half-second or so, and might drop me into
the 39s.

I gotta do better, because my nemesis in a TT AWD Porsche runs 38s on
sticky tires (41.5 on street tires), so I gotta find another second. I've
beaten him before, but now that he has sticky tires, the Porsche remains
just out of reach. I am a teensy bit faster through the twisty bits, but
with all that horsepower he pulls me a car length or two down the straight.
Time to reach into the horsepower bucket and find 50-75 hp.

My increased camber really helped tire wear. I can remember cording a set
of tires in one day at M-town. Now that I've gone to -3 deg camber, it has
stopped eating the outside edges down to the cord. In fact, the front tires
were wearing on the INSIDE more than the outside, leaving a two-in. wide
ridge just slightly higher on the outer shoulder (Geez, they were noisy
out on the highway afterward!) You can feel the wear by running your
fingers in from the outer shoulder to the center. It feels smooth going in.
Pull your fingers back on the tread, and you feel lots of sharp edges. They
are supposed to wear back evenly after some street use. The street
Michelins are showing no other signs of abnormal wear after the track workout.

My daughter drove the VR4 for 30 laps over two track sessions, and I got to
observe. I noticed some hop-hop-hopping when it hit bumps, so I guess this
means it's time for shocks. I'm still working on getting Penske to build me
a set of shocks, but progress is glacial. Guess it's racing season. Any
word on the availability of GABs these days? Is it still 3 months to get a
set? Is anything else available out there?

By the bye, she was turning 44sec laps in my car, so she's catching up. I
know that my kids will beat my times one of these days -- it is the nature
of things -- but I am not going to make it easy for them.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:06:04 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Open track performance

Rich,

You might kill two birds with one stone. Running 500cc injectors vs. stock
360cc units, and 13g's @ 15psi of boost on the track, my car pulls so much
harder than stock you wouldn't recognize it. I've also noticed that my
engine temp. seems to be noticeably cooler as a result of the rich mixture.
I admit your heat problem seems unusual to me as our cars in stock tune are
not known to run hot.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:22:58 GMT
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: Re:SUPER HIGH EGT Temperatures!!!

Everyone,

Thanks to all that have mentioned your oppinion on the 950-1050 degrees Celsius
temps that my brother and I have seen.

After everyone's suggestions here are the conclusions:
1. Run the car in setting B (0.8 Bars)
2. Get a fuel pressure gauge (what brands are good and not too expensive?
meaning, what do you guys have in your cars, and are you happy with it?
Should the readout be in psi, liters/hour or liters/min?)

Here are my calculations to what the readout on the fuel pressure should be:
(360cc/injector)*6injectors*(60 min/hr) =~130 liters/hr
If I find that the fuel delivery rate is less than that, then the car is not
getting enough fuel @ WOT in high RPM range (4500+ RPM).

3. QUESTION MOSTLY: I've also been thinking of an A/F gauge. Do I need
this? How expensive does this have to be for the readout to be reliable?
Can I use a narrow band O2 sensor or do I need a wide band lambda sensor? How
about the ARM1 little gadget? Will that work without the ARC-2 fuel
controller and all?

I want to solve this issue.
Thanks for everyone's replies like always.

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4

- -JOHN-
94 Pearl Yellow TT
- -----------------------
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I have recently hooked up an EGT gauge that I drilled and inserted in the
> front
> > manifold, between cylinder 1 and 2, if I remember correctly. I have had an
> Apexi
> > AVC-R with a K&N air filter installed for the past 6 months. Right before
> the
> > upgrade, I did the 120K tune-up, although the car only had 65K miles on it.

> I
> > gapped the plugs at .34 (I think), whatever everybody recommended. The
boost
> is
> > great, I cannot complain about anything, except for the EGT gauge...
> >
> > Here is a list of scenarios that I noticed, and those that have EGT gauge,
> tell me
> > if these are weird...
> > 1. 825 ~ 850 degrees Celsius -- Cruising at 80 mph in anything from 3rd
gear
> to 6th
> > gear with boost controller off or on.
> > 2. 880 degrees Celsius -- going from 70 mph to 150 mph, redlining every
gear,
> but
> > the catch is with the boost off, that means about 5 ~ 7 PSI of boost, boy
> does it
> > take a long time to get there
> > 3. 1030 degrees Celsius -- going from 70 mph to 150 mph, redlining every
> gear, but
> > with the boost set to 1 bar, and it pretty much holds 13 ~ 15 PSI all the
> time.
> >
> > I noticed that even if I just punch it to 120 or 130 on the highway, and I
am
> > already at 1000 degrees Celsius, which does not make any sense. Looking
back
> > through some older posts, it seems that 950 degrees Celsius is eminent
> meltdown in
> > a few seconds. Could the readings be wrong, because I have even done 169
> mph, in
> > which I was on the throttle for probably about 90 seconds, as I had a
stretch
> of
> > open road of about 5 miles, and I was doing over 100 mph when I started the
> > straight away. However, at the time, I did not have the EGT gauge working,
> but I
> > wonder what those temperatures were, if short bursts of 10 seconds gets the
> > temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius. As a little side note, my brother
> also
> > installed the same setup of mods including an EGT gauge at the same time
with
> me,
> > and he is also getting high readings, but not as high as me. He has also
> seen his
> > EGT temps around 975 @ about 135 mph, which is still unacceptably high.
One
> other
> > thing to keep in mind, on my car, I have a dying clutch (hoping to get the
> RPS
> > stage 2 soon), which if I am not careful, slips a lot under full load with
> the
> > boost on. Could a slipping clutch with the boost on cause such high EGT
> temps???
> > Lots of questions, hoping for lots of answers.
> >
> >
> > Thanks a million everybody,
> >
> > John Raicu
> > 94 Yellow TT
> >
> > &
> > Mihai Raicu
> > 95 Red VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:57:12 -0400
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????

Thought I new all about alinging the rear of a car till I screwed this
one up!Can some one give me the spec's.for a '92 R/T TT Rear.I Was
trying to set the toe with the tie rod ends, till I found the adjustment
cams on the front control arm,and now have the that out and can't find
spec's on what to set it to.I don't see a problem now with the toe our
camber,but need to set the rear steering up to spec's.Does anyone have a
how that can help me?
THANKS,RICK

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:02:30 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

My only question here is this. I have raced on the highway at full boost
for at least 1 minute against other guys and the temp gauge barely moves.
Rich, when you removed the under tray, are you sure all the air is going
through the radiator and not under it? I have never had a temp problem in
this car ever.   I use water wetter all the time by the way, and distilled
water to keep any minerals from leaching onto the innards of the radiator.
I know my street driving prob doesn't come close to your track workouts
(damn why do you live so far--Jersey has no tracks like that AFAIK), but I
am beguiled that you have a temp problem unless your turbos are going and
they are heating up your coolant alot.

Sam

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 01:14:48 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl $RTEC$" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SUPER HIGH EGT Temperatures!!!

> 2. Get a fuel pressure gauge (what brands are good and not too expensive?
> meaning, what do you guys have in your cars, and are you happy with it?
> Should the readout be in psi, liters/hour or liters/min?)

Only psi is pressure !! (the others are flow)

The Autometers do have a good pressure sensor, are electronically but are
little cheap meters. I think they work well for a reasonable price (100 psi
version needed)

> Here are my calculations to what the readout on the fuel pressure should
be:
> (360cc/injector)*6injectors*(60 min/hr) =~130 liters/hr
> If I find that the fuel delivery rate is less than that, then the car is
not
> getting enough fuel @ WOT in high RPM range (4500+ RPM).

You cannot measure delivery rate so forget this. But you can monitor fuel
pressure as it is 43psi at 0 pressure and for each psi of boost it should
rise one psi (so the injectors do not have to fight against the intake
manifold pressure). Therefore at 14 psi you should see 57 psi fuel pressure.

> 3. QUESTION MOSTLY: I've also been thinking of an A/F gauge. Do I need
> this?

Well, you can add it to see if yo uare running lean but it is not very
accurate as our cars can be rich and still knocking due to the fuel quality.

> Can I use a narrow band O2 sensor or do I need a wide band lambda sensor?
How
> about the ARM1 little gadget? Will that work without the ARC-2 fuel
> controller and all?

The ARM comes with the ARC ... but you don't need an ARC if you don't have
larger injectors ! But it can be an investment i nthe future (I ran the ARC
for a few months with the 360 to learn its features and then upgraded to
720... without problems at all !)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:18:37 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????

When you adjust the toe on the rear, you will have to disconnect the tie rod
linkages for the All Wheel Steering, assuming the '92 Stealth has that.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick [SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:57 PM
> To: Stealth; stealth@starnet.net
> Subject: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????
>
> Thought I new all about alinging the rear of a car till I screwed this
> one up!Can some one give me the spec's.for a '92 R/T TT Rear.I Was
> trying to set the toe with the tie rod ends, till I found the adjustment
> cams on the front control arm,and now have the that out and can't find
> spec's on what to set it to.I don't see a problem now with the toe our
> camber,but need to set the rear steering up to spec's.Does anyone have a
> how that can help me?
> THANKS,RICK

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:18:33 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

Are you getting -any- temp increase in the higher gears ??? I hardly spend
any time in 2nd so I can't comment on problems at that level, however at Willow
Springs which is mostly 3rd, and close to redline, I don't get any temperature
creep.
You might try removing the fans for race events --- they should only come on
at low speeds so you'd have to watch the temps. I'm not sure how complicated
is to remove them but it should help air flow. Even in 2nd gear the fans would
be of no help if you're overheating --- they can't produce 60 mph of cooling air
so they are only in the way except at idle.

        Jim Berry
=======================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>

> I thought I beat this problem last year, but it's still there.
> Even after a new water pump and a lower-temperature (180 deg, I think)
> thermostat, I still heat up the car when using the turbos. I can run all
> bloody day in third gear and higher without seeing the temps go up, but as
> soon as I drop down into second to get boost out of the corners, up goes
> the temp gauge. It only takes two or three laps of 2nd gear running and I
> am into the red.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:35:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

No..dont remove the fans.

When yer stuck in traffic..youre doing slower speeds..you'll overheat
quicker than you can compensate for it in the stretches.

I noticed this on my AllTrac Celica when the fan motor died in the middle
of a race.

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Jim Berry wrote:

> Are you getting -any- temp increase in the higher gears ??? I hardly spend
> any time in 2nd so I can't comment on problems at that level, however at Willow
> Springs which is mostly 3rd, and close to redline, I don't get any temperature
> creep.
> You might try removing the fans for race events --- they should only come on
> at low speeds so you'd have to watch the temps. I'm not sure how complicated
> is to remove them but it should help air flow. Even in 2nd gear the fans would
> be of no help if you're overheating --- they can't produce 60 mph of cooling air
> so they are only in the way except at idle.
>
>         Jim Berry
> =======================================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > I thought I beat this problem last year, but it's still there.
> > Even after a new water pump and a lower-temperature (180 deg, I think)
> > thermostat, I still heat up the car when using the turbos. I can run all
> > bloody day in third gear and higher without seeing the temps go up, but as
> > soon as I drop down into second to get boost out of the corners, up goes
> > the temp gauge. It only takes two or three laps of 2nd gear running and I
> > am into the red.
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:25:45 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

> water to keep any minerals from leaching onto the innards of the radiator.
> I know my street driving prob doesn't come close to your track workouts
> (damn why do you live so far--Jersey has no tracks like that AFAIK),

check the following link to locate tracks near you !!!!!!

http://www.chasinracin.com/track-locator/usamap/index.shtml

Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:27:48 -0400
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????

Ok got that,but what do you do with the tie rod ends as far as adjustment after
that,just adjust them with the wheels straight on till they drop back in ,or do
they have an adjustment?
RICK

"Willis, Charles E." wrote:

> When you adjust the toe on the rear, you will have to disconnect the tie rod
> linkages for the All Wheel Steering, assuming the '92 Stealth has that.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rick [SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
> > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:57 PM
> > To:   Stealth; stealth@starnet.net
> > Subject:      Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????
> >
> > Thought I new all about alinging the rear of a car till I screwed this
> > one up!Can some one give me the spec's.for a '92 R/T TT Rear.I Was
> > trying to set the toe with the tie rod ends, till I found the adjustment
> > cams on the front control arm,and now have the that out and can't find
> > spec's on what to set it to.I don't see a problem now with the toe our
> > camber,but need to set the rear steering up to spec's.Does anyone have a
> > how that can help me?
> > THANKS,RICK

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:29:00 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>

> No..dont remove the fans.
>
> When yer stuck in traffic..youre doing slower speeds..you'll overheat
> quicker than you can compensate for it in the stretches.
>

Those fans can't move air faster than about 15 mph, it would have to
be some pretty slow traffic.

        Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:42:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????

You disconnect the tie rods fromthe spindle completely, align the car,
then adjust the tie rods to drop into the spindle.

The steering rods just ride along..they dont adjust anything.

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Rick wrote:

> Ok got that,but what do you do with the tie rod ends as far as adjustment after
> that,just adjust them with the wheels straight on till they drop back in ,or do
> they have an adjustment?
> RICK
>
> "Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
> > When you adjust the toe on the rear, you will have to disconnect the tie rod
> > linkages for the All Wheel Steering, assuming the '92 Stealth has that.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Rick [SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
> > > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:57 PM
> > > To:   Stealth; stealth@starnet.net
> > > Subject:      Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????
> > >
> > > Thought I new all about alinging the rear of a car till I screwed this
> > > one up!Can some one give me the spec's.for a '92 R/T TT Rear.I Was
> > > trying to set the toe with the tie rod ends, till I found the adjustment
> > > cams on the front control arm,and now have the that out and can't find
> > > spec's on what to set it to.I don't see a problem now with the toe our
> > > camber,but need to set the rear steering up to spec's.Does anyone have a
> > > how that can help me?
> > > THANKS,RICK
- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:43:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

True, but its not just about that..

You'll tend to overheat at anything below about 40-45mph with that kind of
energy being pumped thru the block as heat.

You also assume the radiator has a full-frontal view of the air coming at
the car. it doesnt.

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Jim Berry wrote:

>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
> To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
> > No..dont remove the fans.
> >
> > When yer stuck in traffic..youre doing slower speeds..you'll overheat
> > quicker than you can compensate for it in the stretches.
> >
>
> Those fans can't move air faster than about 15 mph, it would have to
> be some pretty slow traffic.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
>

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:35:56 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Still running hot

At 07:02 PM 4/20/01 -0000, Sam Shelat wrote:
>My only question here is this. I have raced on the highway at full boost
>for at least 1 minute against other guys and the temp gauge barely moves.
>Rich, when you removed the under tray, are you sure all the air is going
>through the radiator and not under it?

I had the problem before I took off the tray.

>(damn why do you live so far--Jersey has no tracks like that AFAIK)

Pocono is not far from you.
There is an event there on May 12 that looks interesting.
go to www.drivingevents.com for more info.

Rich

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:06:57 -0400
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????

Thanks Willis, Geoff,
This all wheel steer is all new to me,and I didn't see the toe adjuster till I had
tried to do it with the tie rods, as you would with a front end.Should have asked for
help first!Thanks much,
RICK

Geoff Mohler wrote:

> You disconnect the tie rods fromthe spindle completely, align the car,
> then adjust the tie rods to drop into the spindle.
>
> The steering rods just ride along..they dont adjust anything.
>
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Rick wrote:
>
> > Ok got that,but what do you do with the tie rod ends as far as adjustment after
> > that,just adjust them with the wheels straight on till they drop back in ,or do
> > they have an adjustment?
> > RICK
> >
> > "Willis, Charles E." wrote:
> >
> > > When you adjust the toe on the rear, you will have to disconnect the tie rod
> > > linkages for the All Wheel Steering, assuming the '92 Stealth has that.
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Rick [SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
> > > > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:57 PM
> > > > To:   Stealth; stealth@starnet.net
> > > > Subject:      Team3S: Rear alingment for AWS TT ?????
> > > >
> > > > Thought I new all about alinging the rear of a car till I screwed this
> > > > one up!Can some one give me the spec's.for a '92 R/T TT Rear.I Was
> > > > trying to set the toe with the tie rod ends, till I found the adjustment
> > > > cams on the front control arm,and now have the that out and can't find
> > > > spec's on what to set it to.I don't see a problem now with the toe our
> > > > camber,but need to set the rear steering up to spec's.Does anyone have a
> > > > how that can help me?
> > > > THANKS,RICK
> ---
> Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> California, USA
> http://www.speedtoys.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 23:07:46 -0400
From: GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: egr

My car has not been running great. So I am in the middle of changing the
plugs. I looked up into the plenum and noticed it was very black so I
swiped it with my finger and it is grity. It looks like exhaust soot. Is
this normal? Could I have a bad egr valve?
thanks in advance
rushvr4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:59:32 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Still running hot

Removing or disabling the fans or even one fan will cause the car to
over-heat under normal city driving conditions except in the coolest of
summer climates. I have first hand experience with this on two separate
occasions when 1) a bone-headed 10 second wiring fix un-fixed itself on the
second fan and 2) when I forgot to connect the fans after one of the many
re-assemblies. One of the times it was raining and coolish and it still
climbed into the red. The fans DO make a difference even on the highway too
I found. Must be because they force air across the rad instead of it
getting blown over and around the car. *shrug*

Highway comparisons under load typically mean faster speeds and higher gears
and are not the same situation as coming out of corners under full load at
boost in lower gears.

Rich needs to do at least this, as others have already pointed out:
- - flush both oil and coolant system
- - run distilled H2O
- - run Water Wetter or preferred equivalent (I personally prefer WW)
- - make sure adequate shrouding is in place to direct as much air through the
rad as possible

Recommended:
- - header wrap and shielding on the turbos, manifolds if possible, and the
precats/downpipe. This goes a long way to keep the heat in the exhaust
where it belongs so it can exit the tailpipe. You might even get a bit more
power to boot. This WORKS, but do the other stuff above first.

Optional:
- - ditch the a/c
- - buy a proper rad. This can help a whole lot.

Other possibilities (not tried these myself yet):
- - larger oil cooler
- - possibly use external oil sump for more volume

I live in the desert and heat is a serious issue under any circumstances
especially once you start pushing well beyond the 500-550 HP mark and start
leaning the beast out. The above will make a noticable difference on the
temperature gauge.

Barry

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
> To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
> > No..dont remove the fans.
> >
> > When yer stuck in traffic..youre doing slower speeds..you'll overheat
> > quicker than you can compensate for it in the stretches.
> >
>
> Those fans can't move air faster than about 15 mph, it would have to
> be some pretty slow traffic.
>
>         Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 05:19:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotors are off of there

Hi Andy,

Glad you were successful!

I'm surprized no one suggested a HOT wrench to assist
removal of a stubborn rotor.

After 33k miles I had to turn my front rotors.
Banging with a hammer didn't help so I tried using
bolts in the holes resulting in bending the face and
initiating a crack from the bolt hole.

More penetrating fluid and the propane torch finally
got the rotor loose.

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Thanks to all of you for your tips on rotor removal.
> The bolts that go
> through the rotor are 10mm bolts. I don't remember
> the thread count but it
> is fine as opposed to something else. Rick Pierce -
> your idea on a puller is
> a good one. I have one of these but I was missing a
> critical part of it. It
> would have helped immensely. On reassembly anti
> seize will definitely be
> used. On re reading Jeff Lucius's web page
> instructions I note he talks
> about the bolts but does not mention the 10mm size.
> He recs using bolts from
> the engine compartment. Frankly, these bolts got
> pretty tight and I am not
> sure I would want to put them back in the engine
> compartment. One more tip.
> I bought the bolts from a NAPA store. The ones I got
> were about an inch
> long. They worked, but I would get longer ones next
> time. the wheel studs
> made it impossible to get a socket on the short
> ones. longer ones would
> allow easier tightening. I am thinking the right
> length would be about 2
> inches. Hope this helps someone in the future.
>
> Andy Woll