team3s
Friday, April 20
2001
Volume 01 : Number
470
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:03:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
And if you race guys..please pay
heed. Carry extra brake pads. Even if
you dont wear em down, you
can crack one, glaze it horribly, or the
backing plate may separate..you
never ever know. A simple pad can kill an
expensive trawck day for
ya.
On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
> I also
learned a similar lesson and that is to ALWAYS carry at least two
> cans
of Fix-a-Flat or similar product. This will fill every hole I've
ever
> had in a tire long enough to get to a service station. They
claim 50 miles
> but it can be taken much MUCH farther in an
emergency.
>
> This will not repair a hole in the sidewall of a
tire so be careful as
> sometimes only those large plugs will do the
trick. Fortunately, the stock
> 245/40/18 tires have a fairly small
sidewall so most punctures will occur in
> the tread.
>
> I
do keep my spare tire aired up and have had a full-size spare for
several
> months since I do not use the trunk. This is great peace
of mind since I
> would not be limited to the 45 mph recommended speed
that the spare is.
>
> Oh yeah ... some Fix-a-flat cans say that
they are NOT recommended for
> Z-rated or performance tire
applications. Read the label.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> 3Si
#577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
> Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Thursday, April 19,
2001 9:32 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: learn from my
mistake
>
> I think somebody posted a similar warning a couple of
months back. When was
> the last time you checked the air pressure
in your temporary spare tire?
>
> I hit a pothole at about 10 mph
yesterday in my '93 VR4 and deflated a tire.
> When I went to change to
the temporary spare, I checked the pressure: 10
> psi instead of 60
psi! Then as I was filling it up, I started wondering
> what the
pressure was in the temporary spare in my '94 VR4: 10psi! I
was
> in town close to a filling station and had a spare car and cell
phone. I
> wonder how high my blood pressure would have gone if this
had happened out
> in the boondocks somewhere?
>
> As many
times as a adjust air pressure in my tires, it could have taken
> about 30
seconds to check either of these spares, but somehow, it never
> occurred
to me as being important.
>
> Ignore this message at your own
risk.
>
> Chuck
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:11:44
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
At 09:03 AM 4/19/01 -0700, you
wrote:
>And if you race guys..please pay heed. Carry extra brake
pads. Even if
>you dont wear em down, you can crack one, glaze it
horribly, or the
>backing plate may separate..you never ever know. A
simple pad can kill an
>expensive trawck day for ya.
Don't forget
to carry a cheap pair of work gloves so you can handle the hot
rotor, pads
and calipers. Them suckers get hot and stay hot for quite a while.
You
might also want to carry one spare rotor. If you cut a rotor down
because of
a worn pad, then you'll have something to put on with the new
pads. Also, if
you are dumb enough to run PowerSlot slotted rotors, you'll
need a spare to
put on when the slotted rotor breaks at the hub.
I used to carry an
entire box full of pads -- new pads, old race pads, and
stock pads. I have
sat there trackside on Sunday morning trying to decide
which set of worn-down
pads would get me through the rest of the day. Those
were the days, when I
ran on stock calipers, that I was making a front pad
change during every
event, or going home early on Sunday.
Even now that I have the Big Reds,
and don't wear pads as much, I still
carry all the spares I can. I was
surprised to see my rear pads wear down
at the last event last year (I didn't
think they EVER wore down).
Fortunately, I was carrying a set of stock pads,
and replaced them easily.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:38:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
> Even now that I have the Big Reds,
and don't wear pads as much, I still
> carry all the spares I can. I was
surprised to see my rear pads wear down
> at the last event last year (I
didn't think they EVER wore down).
> Fortunately, I was carrying a set of
stock pads, and replaced them easily.
- --
Not a sales pitch
here..
You should upgrade the rears. I didnt care much on the RX7
until those
pads died..then I put in the R4-S pads..made a huge
difference.
The car at it's mod level was juuuust a hair short in
braking, after 8 or
9 laps the car would overheat the fronts..and youhad to
pull back a few
tenths in how you drove it. It now can take 9-10/10ths
abuse for an hour
at a time without issue just added that extra bit of grab
in the
back...which was probly like a way extra bit more grab.
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:11:15
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel spacers at CarParts
Hey everyone,
I've been doing a
little of my own research into the H&R wheel spacers for
the 3/S.
I went to shox.com and saw the pair of 15mm wheel spacers for
$119.95, model
# 30656715. There was also a set of 5mm listed for the
Eclipse, but I
know these can be used on a 3/S too. They were $68.95 and
model #
10656715. With my CarParts discount, these spacers can be had for
much
cheaper. Here is the breakdown:
model #.......Shox.com
price...CarParts regular price....Discount
price
10656715(5mm)....$68.95............$61.58...................$49.26
30656715(15mm)...$119.95...........$107.12..................$77.12
For
the 5mm spacers, use my 20% off discount and for the 15mm spacers you
can
use my $30 off $100 discount. All my CarParts discounts are at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
Note that the 20% off discount require
two coupons to be used. My page
explains it.
These are really good prices. But I must worn you,
after 5-10 of you order
these spacers, Carparts will probably raise the
regular price. It usually
takes CarParts 2-3 days to react to these
price increases.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:14:40
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Performance mods for a 97 3KGT base model
Hey,
Wayne,
There are a few ideas scattered around our archives for modding
the NT's,
but since I have a '94 Stealth NT and there are lots of other new
members,
I'll save you folks some time...
For any of the NT's, there
isn't much that's 'affordable' for boosting HP,
but lots you can do for
handling. (Of course if you want to invest in head
work, or
boring/stroking you'll get much more, but you could trade up to a
turbo for a
lot cheaper, and have lots more HP, too.) But the following
have given
me a noticeable increase in HP: For intake, the K&N FIPK is
the
best way to go (~$125). And, of course, remove the resonator
(Free). You
can also add an eRAM (~$270) (or Super eRAM - ~$560)
electric supercharger
for an extra bump of 10-15HP for stoplights or for
passing - it's only on
for a few seconds whenever you're at WOT. Pretty
nice, but it's a custom
install to get it to fit - a real PITA that I'm still
not finished with on
mine. Tests were great, though. You'll find
write-ups on all the above on
our website, in the FAQ pages.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmYou can
also add an aftermarket exhaust (~$300-$700), but realize that you
will go
SLOWER off the line, in exchange for a higher top end, and more pep
at high
speeds. NA engines need backpressure for good low-end
acceleration;
free-flow exhausts do *nothing* to enhance take-off on a
non-turbo.
Mods I've done:
- ---Switch to Mobil-1 10W30 right away
(changed every 3k miles, stock filter
changed every 6k).
- ---Eibach
Pro-Kit lowering springs - make a BIG difference in handling
and
cornering! Highly recommended, especially if you go with lower
profile
tires on plus sized wheels.
- ---Wheels/Tires - I plus-sized
my wheels (I'm going even further, up to 18",
soon) and added wider
tires. Price them on Tire Rack.
www.tirerack.com My
choice was the
Nitto Extreme Performance 450 (V-rated) - fabulous handling -
they're
great! (Or get the 555's). And they wear like iron. On
16"
wheels, use an inflation of 43F/37R, and on 17" or 18", go with 40F/34R
for
starters - YOU have to decide what feels best for the way you drive,
and
where, and what tires, etc... DON'T be afraid of these inflation
numberss -
remember that they pump 'em up to around 150psi to seat new tires
on the
rims. Try it, and see what it does for handling...
-
---RPS Carbon Claw clutch (~$250 + install.)- the stock clutch is just
fine,
but this grips a little faster and more positively. Not
necessary, but I
like it. Excellent clutch, with a great
"feel".
- ---I'm also about to upgrade to Porterfield pads and rotors,
from Geoff
Mohler (gives a 20%Team3S discount). If you drive at high
speeds a lot,
just a few apps of heavy braking will give you serious brake
fade, since our
cars are so heavy. I drive fast, so for me, it's a
'must-have' item.
Stay away from things like hot ECUs, hot plugs, hot
coils or wires - they do
NOTHING (or worse) on an NT. Stock is just
fine.
Good luck!
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original
Message ----- From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@skydiveky.com>
> Hello
all!
> This is my first post to the group since joining a couple of days
ago.
I've recently purchased a 97 3KGT base (SOHC) model with 34k
miles. I'm
looking for suggestions on performance mods. My first
step will be a new
intake. I'm having trouble deciding on the K&N
filtercharger injection
performance kit, or the Stillen intake. Any
thoughts on these items?
> What should my next steps for enhancing my
performance? What is the cost
for such mods? Where can I find
these items?
> I'm looking forward to a lengthy relationship with my new
pride and joy!
She's one heck of a machine, and I'm sure I'll have more
questions and
hopefully some answers for the group.
> Thanks for your
time,
> Wayne Bonnett
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:35:38
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
The speed limit on my temporaries is
printed 50 mph. How well does
fix-a-flat work on bent wheel
rims?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Schilberg, Darren
[SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 9:12
AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: learn
from my mistake
>
> I also learned a similar lesson and that is to
ALWAYS carry at least two
> cans of Fix-a-Flat or similar product.
This will fill every hole I've
> ever
> had in a tire long enough to
get to a service station. They claim 50
> miles
> but it can
be taken much MUCH farther in an emergency.
>
> This will not
repair a hole in the sidewall of a tire so be careful as
> sometimes only
those large plugs will do the trick. Fortunately, the
>
stock
> 245/40/18 tires have a fairly small sidewall so most punctures
will occur
> in
> the tread.
>
> I do keep my spare
tire aired up and have had a full-size spare for
> several
> months
since I do not use the trunk. This is great peace of mind since I
>
would not be limited to the 45 mph recommended speed that the spare is.
>
> Oh yeah ... some Fix-a-flat cans say that they are NOT recommended
for
> Z-rated or performance tire applications. Read the
label.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> 3Si
#577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
> Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Thursday, April 19,
2001 9:32 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: learn from my
mistake
>
> I think somebody posted a similar warning a couple of
months back. When
> was
> the last time you checked the air
pressure in your temporary spare tire?
>
> I hit a pothole at about
10 mph yesterday in my '93 VR4 and deflated a
> tire.
> When I went
to change to the temporary spare, I checked the pressure: 10
> psi
instead of 60 psi! Then as I was filling it up, I started
wondering
> what the pressure was in the temporary spare in my '94
VR4: 10psi! I was
> in town close to a filling station and had
a spare car and cell phone. I
> wonder how high my blood pressure
would have gone if this had happened out
> in the boondocks
somewhere?
>
> As many times as a adjust air pressure in my tires,
it could have taken
> about 30 seconds to check either of these spares,
but somehow, it never
> occurred to me as being important.
>
> Ignore this message at your own risk.
>
>
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:36:42
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
IF the bend is not major and is enough
room for the fix-a-flat goop to seal
then it will work. Also, since it
is a spare you can run it flat as it is
not the expensive 18" chrome wheel
and go ahead and ruin it and buy a
replacement. Not ideal but cars DO
run down on the rim occasionally but I
do not recommend it.
For the
$60 that a spare wheel might cost that covers a year of AAA which
has a
towing option to get you out of trouble.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001
1:36 PM
To: 'Schilberg, Darren'; Willis, Charles E.; Team3S
Subject: RE:
Team3S: learn from my mistake
The speed limit on my temporaries is
printed 50 mph. How well does
fix-a-flat work on bent wheel
rims?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:16:41
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spare tire
I know all too well about the spare tire. I was forced
to drive from Colby,
Kansas to Denver, Colorado - around 250 miles - on the
spare since it was
the closest source for 18" tires.
Anybody know
where to get a replacement spare tire? I just about wore all
the tread
off.
Its use was necessitated by the blowout I had going 75 on the
freeway. Since
then, I have discovered that the rim on the tire that blew out
was bent in
the process. Is there anybody out there that repairs rims such as
ours?
(factory 18" chrome) Is there any good reason to spend money fixing
this set
of rims? I actually prefer the non-chrome look, like my 17" Mille
Miglia
Spider rims I use with snow tires. I'd even consider 18" rims
identical to
these.
Or should I at least hold on to the OEM rims to
preserve some kind of value
in the car?
- --
Paul/.
95 black
3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:00:41
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Two
technical questions
Been sorting out my 1991 Stealth R/T Turbo and some
of its "problems," that I
discovered only after I bought
it.
1. Oil pressure seems low on the dashboard
gauge. What should it be at
cruising speed, on both the stock gauge
and in p.s.i., if known?
2. When accelerating with pedal to the floor, car hesitates between 3-6k
rpm. Symptoms remind me of overpressure fuel cutout in old saab
turbos. What
should the stock boost gauge read under full accel? Mine
is pinned above 14
p.s.i. (seems high), perhaps a jammed wastegate or
pressure control valve?
Any help would be appreciated.
- -Thor (4
weeks w/1991 stealth and counting!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:00:31
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotors are really on there
If you are hard up, use one of the
bolts or two that hold your rear muffler
up in the air-its the same thread
pattern (these are the bolts on the rubber
hangers) . Or you can
go to Pep-boys or autozone and buy their cheapest
wheel puller. I
randomly bought the cheapest one and the bolts that came
with it fit no
problem. Don't put just one in and keep turning though. Put
two
in and start threading them down and keep alternating. If the
rotors
are on as tight as mine were, you might just rip the threads right out
of
the rotor and then your going to have to create your own removal
tool. Mine
consisted of a T mad of 2x4s and a pair of spring
compressors (or huge
c-clamps). I put the bottom of the T on the center
hub and put the
compressors from the back of the rotor on each side to the
top of the T and
kept tightening until the rotor finally popped off. I
almost broke the 2x4
in half!
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: cody <
overclck@starband.net>
To: Team3S
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, April 19, 2001 5:16 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on
there
>I had a hard time trying to use the bolt method once
FINALLY finding the
right size bolt to fit in there. I honestly had
better luck POUNDING THE
CRAP out of my rotors. All four were pretty
damn hard. The rears were a
bit easier than the fronts though. I
SOAKED mine in penetrating oil like
all day long before even attempting
~either~ method of removing them.
Finally, when the little bolt attempt
failed, I just found a REAL BIG rubber
mallet, and beat on the stupid rotor,
two nice hard hits, then rotate 90
degrees, then repeat. they finally
came off, after about two whole
revolutions... I used ALOT of
force.
>
>-Cody
>
>#> It is a standard metric
bolt. I don't recall the size. However
>#last time
I
>#> removed my rotors, I used one of the bolts on the front
caliper,
>#I think it
>#> was one of the bolts that hold the two
halves together. It was
>#the correct
>#> size. Just
thread it into the rotor and it will loosen it. Just don't
>#>
forget to torque it correctly when you replace it back in the
caliper.
>#>
>#> Good luck,
>#>
Ken
>#>
>#> > I got the wheel off. No Problem.
>#>
> I got the brake off. No problem.
>#> > I read the archive, and
I think I read Jeff Lucius' page on changing
>#> rotors.
>#>
> It says you really have to pound in order get the rotors off.
>#Well,
I have
>#> > pounded -- and pounded. For an hour. And the rotor is
getting the last
>#> > laught.
>#> > I notice that both
rotors have two little holes about 1/4 inch
>#diam. One
>#>
of
>#> > these is threaded. Does anyone know the size of the bolt
that
>#will go into
>#> > this little hole. Maybe putting a
bolt in the hole and using it to
give
>#> > leverage against the
hub will force it to break loose. Any suggestions
>#>
would
>#> > be much appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 19:18:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: [Admin]List downtime..
Sorry for the list downtime this afternoon
for a few hours.
There was a decent power surge here, and it fried the
new 1Ghz CPU in one
of the servers. All is back up and fixed now...we
hope *grin*
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 19:18:39
-0700
From: "rick pierce" <
rick.pierce@alphadog.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
Guys I can really relate although
on a drum level (I just got my 92 VR-4 so
haven't yet experienced this
problem directly),
My Datsun 510 (circa 1968) has rear drum brakes and
they have all the same
removal characteristics - rust next to a hub, remove
them with bolts
(congrats to everyone who had someone, probably else, ad
anti-seize), and no
working space/breakage problems. You can go get
puller rentals from
"rent-a-shops" (which I also did actually buy one for the
510) but always
remember to strike the hardened center (or a little off with
discs - but not
the contact area) with a mini sledge as you are applying the
torque/removal
force. I have actually used the puller to put enough
pressure on the hub to
flex the 510 drum so much that you can see the visual
deflection, but
definitely stand back, because on one of those "breaking
loose" blows it
will explode/jump off the axle/spindle.
I hope this
helps - remember this was on a drum example, but because I
bought a universal
puller from Post Tools (local jobber/tool supplier - not
one of the big ??) I
really don't fear the rotor removal problems you guys
have (watch for me to
rescind this later if necessary).
Rick
PS I cut all of the e-mail
attachments out - but the previous e-mails are
relating to removing rotors
that don't want to seem to come off.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:34:25
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
dodged a bullet
I installed my spare trans in my 93TT last weekend and
found it to be a
PITA. Kudos to Jeff Lucius's web site --- a transmission
jack is a must
unless you're a body builder type.
When I reassembled
the transmission I put the reverse gear in upside
down which caused a series
of strange noises when the engine was
reved up and down. I was able to remove
the end cap of the trans
without removing the whole transmission and flopped
the gear over and
saved a weekend of pain and frustration.
With the
tranny out I put in the Muiller lightweight flywheel and the RPS
turbo
carbon clutch ---- feels great, a little getting used to on start-up
but the
combination feels good. Clutch feel is lighter than I expected, I
hope I don't
experience the problems Brad had with the RPS setup.
The
first time around plan on a making it a weekend project --- If I would
have
had to pull it again I think about 6 hours would do the trick.
Kudos also
to the 3Xperts --- I got a set of their motor mounts and installed
three of
the four, the mount by the fire wall looks like you need to pull the
engine
to change that one. Good quality and good service --- half a set got
lost in
the mail [ USPS delivered it to the wrong house ] and Steve got a new
set out
pronto. You can definitely feel the almost solid mounts --- If you
want that
limo feel keep the stock setup.
I also changed the front springs from
600# to 900# and didn't notice much
difference in ride quality ---- I hope to
take it racing In a week so I'll find out
how it affects the handling. I have
550# rear and 900# front as of now, along
with the GAB struts.
All I
have to do now is install the race seat, roll bar and new pads ---- damn
I'm
tired already.
Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:35:08
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
> I was surprised to see my rear
pads wear down
>> at the last event last year (I didn't think they EVER
wore down).
>> Fortunately, I was carrying a set of stock pads, and
replaced them easily.
>--
>Not a sales pitch
here..
>
>You should upgrade the rears. I didnt care much on
the RX7 until those
>pads died..then I put in the R4-S pads..made a huge
difference.
>
I ran R4 pads back there for nearly two years. Big
mistake. They are race
pads, never wear out, and make all kinds of nasty
noises when they are cold
on the street -- screek, sqwaak, hiss, and like
that. I think I'll order a
set of R4S pads and hope they don't make any noise
when cold.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:15:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
> I ran R4 pads back there for
nearly two years. Big mistake. They are race
> pads, never wear out, and
make all kinds of nasty noises when they are cold
> on the street --
screek, sqwaak, hiss, and like that. I think I'll order a
> set of R4S
pads and hope they don't make any noise when cold.
- ---
I did say R4-S
pads, not straight R4 pads.
They will be quiet..mine are. Just
remember to keep the shims in.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:48:01
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
learn from my mistake
They don't. Only when going extremely slow. I hear
some squeak when
pulling into garage at like 5 mph or less and applying
brakes, but no
other times I have encountered.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
Merritt wrote:
>
> > I was surprised to see my rear
pads wear down
> >> at the last event last year (I didn't think they
EVER wore down).
> >> Fortunately, I was carrying a set of stock
pads, and replaced them easily.
> >--
> >Not a sales pitch
here..
> >
> >You should upgrade the rears. I didnt care
much on the RX7 until those
> >pads died..then I put in the R4-S
pads..made a huge difference.
> >
> I ran R4 pads back there for
nearly two years. Big mistake. They are race
> pads, never wear out, and
make all kinds of nasty noises when they are cold
> on the street --
screek, sqwaak, hiss, and like that. I think I'll order a
> set of R4S
pads and hope they don't make any noise when cold.
>
> Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:50:59
-0700
From: Lawrence Wang <
yokyun@ugcs.caltech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Accusump?
Greetings,
I just started the
process of having my engine in my VR-4 rebuilt (which
hasn't moved at all in
a few months) and was thinking of trying to install an
accusump system to
avoid cold start scoring. Anyone ever do this on a VR-4 or
Stealth TT
yet? Not looking to open track the car quite yet, but will do so in
the
future. Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:09:57
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: R06 Vettes are sumthin else!
One of my ROWG buddies bought a new
2001 Corvette R06, so we ran over to
Marshalltown (Iowa) International
Speedway to check it out. Five of us
went: The R06, my 3000GT, my daughter's
Cobra SVT, a TT AWD Porsche, and a
944S driven by an instructor. Some of us
drove the Vette, others got a ride
in it, and all of us tried to keep up with
it around the 0.6 mile, 10-turn
Marshalltown road course. Only the $125,000
AWD TT Porsche could turn
faster lap times, by a half-second (we were all on
street tires).
The verdict: What an AWESOME car! It is like no
Vette I've ever seen
before, and light years away from my old '74. It corners
like it is on
rails, has gobs of low end torque, and goes like the hammers of
hell. For
$48,000, it is one absolutely superb open tracking machine. It gets
24 mpg
on the highway, too. It even has a Competition switch for the
suspension
and traction control. And it's all under warranty!
________________
There is an open track event at the Speedway on
Saturday, May 5. This is a
non-sanctioned event, run by no club, and has no
rules, pylons or safety
inspections. Cost is about $20-$30 (depending on how
many cars show up) for
all the laps you can run from 9 am to 5 pm. You'll
need a helmet and you
have to sign a waiver. Top speed on the track is about
75 mph, and average
speed for a fast lap is 55-60 mph. We usually get 10-15
cars for one of
these events, and the cars tend to naturally group up
according to speed
and ability.
For more on the track, including a
track photo and layout, go to
http://www.bestofiowa.com/ia-intl-raceway/index.htmlMarshalltown
is in the middle of Iowa, about 5 hours away from everywhere
- -- Kansas
City, Minneapolis, Milwaukee, Chicago and St. Louis.
If you need more
info about the event, contact me off-list at
merritt@cedar-rapids.net(Personal
to 3000GT folks: I can't run the event because of a family
gathering in St.
Louis. Unless I can come up with a good excuse to stay
home, of course.)
Rich/3000GT VR4 AWD TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 06:55:36
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: R06
Vettes are sumthin else!
This must be a REALLY new car, because the last
high end Vette I remember
seeing from GM was the Z06.....
Jeff V
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 12:10 AM
To:
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: R06 Vettes are sumthin else!
One of my ROWG buddies bought a
new 2001 Corvette R06, so we ran over to
Marshalltown (Iowa) International
Speedway to check it out. Five of us
went: The R06, my 3000GT, my daughter's
Cobra SVT, a TT AWD Porsche, and a
944S driven by an instructor. Some of us
drove the Vette, others got a ride
in it, and all of us tried to keep up with
it around the 0.6 mile, 10-turn
Marshalltown road course. Only the $125,000
AWD TT Porsche could turn
faster lap times, by a half-second (we were all on
street tires).
The verdict: What an AWESOME car! It is like no
Vette I've ever seen
before, and light years away from my old '74. It corners
like it is on
rails, has gobs of low end torque, and goes like the hammers of
hell. For
$48,000, it is one absolutely superb open tracking machine. It gets
24 mpg
on the highway, too. It even has a Competition switch for the
suspension
and traction control. And it's all under
warranty!
________________
There is an open track event at the
Speedway on Saturday, May 5. This is a
non-sanctioned event, run by no club,
and has no rules, pylons or safety
inspections. Cost is about $20-$30
(depending on how many cars show up) for
all the laps you can run from 9 am
to 5 pm. You'll need a helmet and you
have to sign a waiver. Top speed on the
track is about 75 mph, and average
speed for a fast lap is 55-60 mph. We
usually get 10-15 cars for one of
these events, and the cars tend to
naturally group up according to speed
and ability.
For more on the
track, including a track photo and layout, go to
http://www.bestofiowa.com/ia-intl-raceway/index.htmlMarshalltown
is in the middle of Iowa, about 5 hours away from everywhere
- -- Kansas
City, Minneapolis, Milwaukee, Chicago and St. Louis.
If you need more
info about the event, contact me off-list at
merritt@cedar-rapids.net(Personal
to 3000GT folks: I can't run the event because of a family
gathering in St.
Louis. Unless I can come up with a good excuse to stay
home, of
course.)
Rich/3000GT VR4 AWD TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:58:44
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: R06 Vettes are sumthin else (ADMIN !)
At 06:55 20.04.2001
-0400, you wrote:
> This must be a REALLY new car, because the last
high end Vette I remember
> seeing from GM was the
Z06.....
Please keep the non-3S related topic answers
offline.
Also please use the <snip> feature and cut the message you
received in your
reply as we all have received it already
!
Thanks
Roger for the Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:15:20
-0500
From: Danny Melton <
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Two technical questions
Let me see If I can help you out a
little.
1. I do not know what the oil pressure should be at, but I can
tell you
that mine is a little under the 1/2 mark while cruising and (to my
knowledge) my car is running fine.
2. Let me start by saying that the
stock boost gauge truly sucks. When I
was working through some boosting
problems, my gauge was pegged at 14psi
when I was only running 6-7psi. Get
yourself and after-market gauge if you
want a truly accurate reading on
boost. IF, all your hoses are in good
condition, and you wastegates and
boost control solenoid are
operational, the stock boost on the first
gen cars is 9psi.
Hope this helps you out.
Later,
Danny
Melton
At 06:00 PM 4/19/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Been sorting
out my 1991 Stealth R/T Turbo and some of its "problems," that
I
>discovered only after I bought
it.
>
> 1. Oil pressure seems low on
the dashboard gauge. What should it be at
>cruising speed, on both
the stock gauge and in p.s.i., if
known?
>
>
> 2. When
accelerating with pedal to the floor, car hesitates between
>
3-6k
>rpm. Symptoms remind me of overpressure fuel cutout in old
saab turbos. What
>should the stock boost gauge read under full
accel? Mine is pinned above 14
>p.s.i. (seems high), perhaps a
jammed wastegate or pressure control valve?
>
>Any help would be
appreciated.
>
>-Thor (4 weeks w/1991 stealth and
counting!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:49:39
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Two technical questions
Mike:
before replacing
all sorts of parts (i.e. - replace ignitor plugs and
wires), check to make
sure all hoses are attached and intact. I did that
last night,
suspecting that one or more wastegate actuator lines were
disconnected;
unfortunately, the solution was not that simple for me. I
suspect that
our current problems are caused by "feedback" through the
pressure control
valve located on the firewall. It would seem that the rear
turbo
provides the pressure needed to hold both wastegates closed. I think
that either the valve may be leaking or a pressure sensor may be
faulty/disconnected. I just need to figure out why.
Any idea where a pressure sensor may be
located?
- -Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:13:37
-0400
From: "Bill Blue" <
bill@webtech-ohio.com>
Subject:
Team3S: alternator alternative?
I have a '93 stealth SOHC,
non-turbo. The alternator is like $200. Are
there any other
dodge/mit 3.0 cars that use the same alternator but might be
cheaper (i.e.
caravan) ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:57:36
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: ZOG not ROG
Yes, it's a Z06, not a R06.
Sorry.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:15:16
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Accusump?
I have used the Accusump system but I prefer the
Preluber because it
brings the engine up under pressure (like the
Accusump)and post oils the
turbos for up to 5 min after shut down.
www.preluber.com- -----Original
Message---------------------------------------------------
From: Lawrence
Wang [mailto:yokyun@ugcs.caltech.edu]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 9:51
PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Accusump?
Greetings,
I just started the
process of having my engine in my VR-4 rebuilt (which
hasn't moved at all in
a few months) and was thinking of trying to install
an
accusump system to
avoid cold start scoring. Anyone ever do this on a VR-4
or
Stealth
TT yet? Not looking to open track the car quite yet, but will do
so
in
the future. Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:18:11
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rotors are off of there
Thanks to all of you for your tips on rotor
removal. The bolts that go
through the rotor are 10mm bolts. I don't remember
the thread count but it
is fine as opposed to something else. Rick Pierce -
your idea on a puller is
a good one. I have one of these but I was missing a
critical part of it. It
would have helped immensely. On reassembly anti seize
will definitely be
used. On re reading Jeff Lucius's web page instructions I
note he talks
about the bolts but does not mention the 10mm size. He recs
using bolts from
the engine compartment. Frankly, these bolts got pretty
tight and I am not
sure I would want to put them back in the engine
compartment. One more tip.
I bought the bolts from a NAPA store. The ones I
got were about an inch
long. They worked, but I would get longer ones next
time. the wheel studs
made it impossible to get a socket on the short ones.
longer ones would
allow easier tightening. I am thinking the right length
would be about 2
inches. Hope this helps someone in the future.
Andy
Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#470
*********************