team3s
Thursday, April 19
2001 Volume 01
: Number
469
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
18 Apr 2001 08:53:32 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FIPK alternative
Has anyone tried this K&N cone filter
adapter being sold on E-bay on a regular basis for $18-$20.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=580297094It
is obiously not CARB certified but It looks like a Stillen air intake w/o the
air cleaner.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com1991 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:09:22
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
SUPER HIGH EGT Temperatures!!!
Barry,
Can you ellaborate more on
this TIMING MONITOR. My brother, John (with the
94 TT), knows computer
programming, so if you have a game plan, maybe you
can send me the details
and we'll see what he can do.
I just want a way to monitor as much of
this car as possible (ie. knock,
temps, timing...). What you are
suggesting is progress towards that. Maybe
my brother can work on the
software aspect and someone else on the interface
to the engine.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
John
94 Pearl Yellow TT
-
---------------------------------
>From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: SUPER HIGH EGT Temperatures!!!
>
>We need a display that
shows actual timing and knock at all times, in
>additon to the stuff we
already have. I have a design for the timing
>monitor if someone
wants to try and build it, although I retain the
rights.
><grin> All you need is some signal conditioning for
the crank trigger and
a
>fast enough PIC, a few hundred lines of code
or so and a way to display
the
>results.
>
>Barry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:19:43
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: SUPER HIGH EGT Temperatures!!!
>We need a display that
shows actual timing and knock at all times, in
>additon to the stuff we
already have. I have a design for the timing
>monitor if someone
wants to try and build it, although I retain the
rights.
><grin> All you need is some signal conditioning for
the crank trigger and
>a fast enough PIC, a few hundred lines of code or
so and a way to
>display the results.
I'm trying to build a
general-purpose datalogger for our cars using PIC and
stuff... If you
want, send me the info and I'll see if I can incorporate it
into what I'm
making. Progress is real slow though, but now with summer
here and the
car working I should be able to make quicker progress.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:10:22
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wierd steering behavior
> Does this
always happen at the same speed/rpm? Does it happen if you
>
accelerate slowly through the gear and dont boost up?
I took the car out
again last night and drove it on the highway for
about 20 minutes.
It
seemed to occur in the higher gears only when I got on the boost
(under full
power),
not when coasting at a set speed or at a set RPM. The effect was
slight,
I noticed that
I tend to hold the steering wheel in such a way
that it makes it more
noticeable. My car
is fairly modified (@ probably
400 bhp) so might this be a small amount
of torque
steer?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:23:21
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Is H&R dead?
I ordered a set of wheel spacers from
www.nascarplace.com, which places
the
order with H&R Spacers in Carson City. That was three weeks ago. I
got an
immediate confirmation of the order.
I started calling, e-mailing
and faxing this week, and can't seem to get
through to anybody at either
place.
Anybody have any experience with these folks?
Are they still in
business?
I hate it when a company doesn't post a phone number, or if
they do post
one, it's answered by a machine.
Is everybody working a
second business at night out of their basements?
Rich/94 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:47:58
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Delphi Injectors
Can anyone tell me if the injectors for
"American Iron"..i.e. 92 Camaro, are
the same dimensionally as our
injectors. Will they fit in our fuel rail and
manifolds?
Delphi
makes some top feed, low impedance injectors and they are of the
"Bosch
style". These are available in sizes up to 85lb/hr(890cc/min) and
the
availability is much greater(i.e. lower price).
http://www.delphiauto.com/pdf/eandepdfs/mpfi_tf.pdfMark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:49:50
-0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: A/C
Compressor on/off. Help needed!
I tried that and the problem continued.
There is a "Belt Control" circuit
that controls the clutch, reading
various sensors. Did someone knows where
is located?
Nikos the
Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 12:50 PM
To:
Team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C Compressor on/off. Help
needed!
Hello,
The most common reason for this seems to be a faulty
pressure switch. It is
located on the dryer. Unplug the connector and jumper
the two terminals (on
the harness side) with a paper clip. If the compressor
stops cutting
on/off, you need to verify you have a full charge. If you do,
you need to
replace the switch, which cannot be ordered by itself. It comes
as part of
the dryer.
Wayne
At 03:35 PM 4/16/01 , Nickolaos
M. Sgouros wrote:
>Dear friends Hi!
>Here I need some help
if someone has some experience at the A/C system of
>the RT TT 92'. My
compressor after 2-3 minutes of operation starts going
>on/off. Even if I
set the control to the lower point (should keep the
>compressor on for a
while) the same symptom happens. On/off every 5-10
>seconds. I check
the gas; is ok. I know that our cars have 2-3 sensors
that
>they can
cut the compressor. Please give some feedback.
>
>Nikos the
Greek
>92' RT TT
>Puerto Rico
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:49:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is H&R dead? (Wheel Spacers)
I found a place that can custom
quality wheel
spacers/adapters for a VERY VERY reasonable price...
http://www.wheelspacers.com/Good
Luck,
George
- --- Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> I ordered a set of wheel spacers from
>
www.nascarplace.com, which places
the
> order with H&R Spacers in Carson City. That was
> three
weeks ago. I got an
> immediate confirmation of the order.
> I
started calling, e-mailing and faxing this week,
> and can't seem to
get
> through to anybody at either place.
>
> Anybody have
any experience with these folks?
> Are they still in business?
>
> I hate it when a company doesn't post a phone
> number, or if
they do post
> one, it's answered by a machine.
> Is everybody
working a second business at night out
> of their basements?
>
> Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:52:43
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A/C Compressor on/off. Help needed!
It is located under the
glove box. There is a panel above the pass.
feet..it is attached to
that(you need to remove the panel to get to it.)
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>I tried that and the problem continued.
There is a "Belt Control" circuit
>that controls the clutch, reading
various sensors. Did someone knows where
>is located?
>
>Nikos
the Greek
>92' RT TT
>Puerto Rico
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:09:39
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Delphi Injectors
I don't have time to look into the manual
but at least the fuel pressure is
not great. 4 bars is about 58 psi what
represents 15 psi of boost.... not
enough for high power application
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Delphi makes some top
feed, low impedance injectors and they are of the
> "Bosch style".
These are available in sizes up to 85lb/hr(890cc/min) and
> the
availability is much greater(i.e. lower price).
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:13:32
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: SUPER HIGH EGT Temperatures!!!
> I'm trying to build a
general-purpose datalogger for our cars using PIC
and
> stuff...
If you want, send me the info and I'll see if I can incorporate
it
>
into what I'm making. Progress is real slow though, but now with
summer
> here and the car working I should be able to make quicker
progress.
Well, how many summers do you want to work on ? Many already
tried but
reading the knock sensor is not easy at all ! And reading the
advance timing
against the base ? The ECU knows what to try but that's it :((
Good luck !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:38:06
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Delphi Injectors
Interesting...that is something that I
didn't consider. Not too many turbo
Camaros out there that would need
that kind of fuel pressure.
From what I understand
www.dsm-performance.com is selling
them. They are
Holley injectors and they "modify" them to work in DSM
and our cars. What
this Mod is, I dont know. They did say
however that Bob Fontana was using
them(85lb/hr) in his 17G setup(Bob are
you out there.)
These Holley injectors(85lb/hr) can be purchased from
Summit for <
$80/injector. If indeed they are limited to 4bar how
are they getting by
this limitation?
Bob?
Mark
>From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Delphi Injectors
>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:09:39
+0200
>
>I don't have time to look into the manual but at least the
fuel pressure is
>not great. 4 bars is about 58 psi what represents 15 psi
of boost.... not
>enough for high power application
!
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
>
> > Delphi makes some top feed,
low impedance injectors and they are of the
> > "Bosch style".
These are available in sizes up to 85lb/hr(890cc/min)
>and
> >
the availability is much greater(i.e. lower price).
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 17:00:06
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Lowering Springs
I am going to finally lower my car, but was wondering
how some of you
guys who have done this deal with speed bumps, etc. I have
only about 4
inches of clearance from the ground to the ATR downpipe - lowest
part of
car. Lowering another 1.3 inches or so seems like navigating over
these
may be difficult at best. Any comments?
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:04:56
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Has anyone changed their steering wheel?
Just wondering if anyone
here has ever changed their steering wheel. I was
looking into either a
Sparco steering wheel or a Momo steering wheel for my
VR-4 and noticed that
none of the two companies makes a hub or adapter to
fit an aftermarket
steering wheel on our car.
If anyone knows where to get one, or has a
workaround let me know.
Thanks,
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:04:01
-0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dan@3sxperts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Lowering Springs
Rich,
I have the RSR drop springs on my 94 VR-4.
They lowered the car about 1.5"
all the way around. I also have the ATR
downpipe (and complete ATR exhaust)
and haven't had any issues with speed
bumps, curbs, etc. I think my front
active-aero air dam scrapes before
anything else.
Dan Mecier
3SX Automotive Technologies
www.3Sxperts.comPS - We are having a
group buy on Intrax and Eibach springs through the end
of this week. Price
for your car - Eibach $250, Intrax $215. Prices do not
include
shipping.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:00 PM
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Lowering Springs
I am going to finally lower my car, but was
wondering how some of you
guys who have done this deal with speed bumps, etc.
I have only about 4
inches of clearance from the ground to the ATR downpipe -
lowest part of
car. Lowering another 1.3 inches or so seems like navigating
over these
may be difficult at best. Any comments?
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:58:45
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
All the hubbub RE: BOV?
I used a BOV from a saab 9000. Works great and is
a 90 degree design. Its smaller
inlet and outlet but is easy to adapt. I was
told it will hold 18psi easily. Its
also prety loud. Cost me $40 from Saab
dealer.
Richard wrote:
> I agree. I saw leakage when only
upgrade was high flow intake. I think
> it is worth the $200-350 for a
good BOV that will serve you well as you
> upgrade over
time.
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth TT
>
> Curt Gendron
wrote:
> >
> > On a completely stock 3/S, the stock BOV is
fine, but even cranking the
> > boost up to 15psi, may cause the stock
BOV to leak. You'll denfinatly want
> > to upgrade the BOV if
going any higher than 15psi. My stock BOV started
> > leaking
around 14-15psi.
> >
> > I'm working on manufacturing the
adapter for the 1g DSM BOV, so you can use
> > it on a 3/S. Price
will be around $30 plus shipping. I'll know for sure in
> > about
a week.
> >
> > later,
> > Curt
> >
http://www.mn3s.org> >
> >
>From:
Merlin916@aol.com> >
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
>Subject: RE: Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
> > >Date: Mon, 16
Apr 2001 16:15:11 EDT
> > >
> > >n a message dated
4/16/01 4:08:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >
>mjannusch@marketwatch.com writes:
> > >
> >
><< No, I am hitting my boost limit quicker because of the BOV.
It isn't
> > > leaking pressurized air back into the intake,
making the boost climb more
> > > rapidly.
> >
> >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> Youre stock BOV will not leak air with the stock
boost controller
> > >unless
> > >its defective.
When I had a 94 Toyota MR2 Turbo, I tested it on a dyno
> >
>stock
> > >and with just a BOV and the power curves were exactly
the same. Changing
> > >the
> > >BOV with no other
modifications will do nothing for you power/boost
> > >level/rate of
boost increase/anything else except maybe sound cool.
> > >
>
> >Joe
> > >93 RT/TT
> > >
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:48:12
+1200
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Has anyone changed their steering wheel?
> Just wondering
if anyone here has ever changed their
> steering wheel. I was looking into
either a Sparco
> steering wheel or a Momo steering wheel for my
VR-4
> and noticed that none of the two companies makes a hub
> or
adapter to fit an aftermarket steering wheel on our
> car.
I have a
Momo on the car. You will loose the airbag,
stereo, and cruise controls
when you replace the factory
wheel. I am not sure in your country but
you may also
need to completely remove the SRS system in order to
keep the
car "safe" (you don't want the car attempting
to deploy a non-existant
airbag).
> If anyone knows where to get one, or has a
workaround
> let me know.
Mine was in the car when I purchased it,
I have heard
that the Momo Mitsubishi Eclipse adapter fits our
cars.
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 01:47:50
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lowering Springs
Rich,
I have the eibach lowering springs
that lower the car 1.3" front/1.5" rear.
My borla TT exhaust hangs
down very low at the rear suspension. i scrape
more on my front end
than the rear. however, i do catch the exhaust pipe
every once in a
while. i think that eibach makes springs with a 1.2" drop
all
around. you might want to check up on that. go to carparts.com and
see
what they have. also, you could use coupons from curt gendron at
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html>>big
thanks to curt for getting us these coupons!!
- --Kevin Umbreit
'91
R/T
>
>I am going to finally lower my car, but was wondering
how some of you
>guys who have done this deal with speed bumps, etc. I
have only about 4
>inches of clearance from the ground to the ATR downpipe
- lowest part of
>car. Lowering another 1.3 inches or so seems like
navigating over these
>may be difficult at best. Any
comments?
>
>Rich
>92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:12:13
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Has anyone changed their steering wheel?
I installed a Momo wheel ---- I
have some pictures of the install, and the
modifications I made to the Momo
hub [ they do offer one ]. I didn't like
the way it fit and I extended the
length to better fit my 6'3"
height.
Jim
berry
==========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Michael Bulaon <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 18, 2001 5:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Has anyone changed their
steering wheel?
> Just wondering if anyone here has ever changed
their steering wheel. I was
> looking into either a Sparco steering wheel
or a Momo steering wheel for my
> VR-4 and noticed that none of the two
companies makes a hub or adapter to
> fit an aftermarket steering wheel on
our car.
>
> If anyone knows where to get one, or has a workaround
let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael Bulaon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:18:43
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Has anyone changed their steering wheel?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> I have a Momo on the car. You will loose the airbag,
>
stereo, and cruise controls when you replace the factory
> wheel. I
am not sure in your country but you may also
> need to completely remove
the SRS system in order to
> keep the car "safe" (you don't want the car
attempting
> to deploy a non-existant airbag).
I have the
factory cruise control adapted and could do the radio
if I get ambitious.
You will loose the SRS but no need to worry
about it going off
inadvertently.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:06:21
-0700
From: Sharyn Ivey <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rotors are really on there
I got the wheel off. No Problem.
I got the
brake off. No problem.
I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff Lucius'
page on changing rotors.
It says you really have to pound in order get the
rotors off. Well, I have
pounded -- and pounded. For an hour. And the rotor
is getting the last
laught.
I notice that both rotors have two little
holes about 1/4 inch diam. One of
these is threaded. Does anyone know the
size of the bolt that will go into
this little hole. Maybe putting a bolt in
the hole and using it to give
leverage against the hub will force it to break
loose. Any suggestions would
be much appreciated.
Andy
Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:23:02
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
Put a bolt in the hole and thread
it off. The hole is on there for that
reason.
*IF* these are
rear rotors, make sure the rear parking brake is unset.
Brad
Check
out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Sharyn Ivey
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:06 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Rotors are really on there
I got the wheel off. No Problem.
I
got the brake off. No problem.
I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff
Lucius' page on changing rotors.
It says you really have to pound in order
get the rotors off. Well, I have
pounded -- and pounded. For an hour. And the
rotor is getting the last
laught.
I notice that both rotors have two
little holes about 1/4 inch diam. One of
these is threaded. Does anyone know
the size of the bolt that will go into
this little hole. Maybe putting a bolt
in the hole and using it to give
leverage against the hub will force it to
break loose. Any suggestions would
be much appreciated.
Andy
Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:45:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
Yes, thats exactly what those
threaded holes are for.
Im suprised they are NOT in the FAQ on rotor
removal.
Its a pretty standard threadsize for a Jap car...although I dont
know it
offhand.
On Wed, 18 Apr 2001, Sharyn Ivey wrote:
> I
got the wheel off. No Problem.
> I got the brake off. No problem.
>
I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff Lucius' page on changing
rotors.
> It says you really have to pound in order get the rotors off.
Well, I have
> pounded -- and pounded. For an hour. And the rotor is
getting the last
> laught.
> I notice that both rotors have two
little holes about 1/4 inch diam. One of
> these is threaded. Does anyone
know the size of the bolt that will go into
> this little hole. Maybe
putting a bolt in the hole and using it to give
> leverage against the hub
will force it to break loose. Any suggestions would
> be much
appreciated.
>
> Andy Woll
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:35:18
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Bad Vendor
After waiting three weeks, I finally got
www.nascarplace to respond to my
query,
"Where's my order?"
Here's what they said:
"Autobahn North America
has stop carrying the H&R product line. Please
contact H&R and
they will direct you to a dealer."
So, Autobahn North America and
www.nascarplace are the same entity.
They
have no phone number, mailing address or fax number, and you must deal
with
them via e-mail. Inquiries are handled by an automated response
service.
They did not respond until I added this to my message: "The 500+
people on
opentracking.com and the 650 people on the 3000GT mailing list are
all
anxiously awaiting the answer to this question."
In other words,
if I hadn't been so insistent, mean and pushy, I would be
sitting here
waiting for my wheel spacers until Jeff Lacina's cows came home!
OK
folks, you see how they respond to customer queries. I will never deal
with
Autobahn North America and
www.nascarplace
again. I suggest that all
of you do likewise. We don't need vendors like this
in our world.
So, are there any other vendors who want to sell me a set
of H&R wheel
spacers (or something similar) for a 3000GT VR4 AWD?? I
can't deal with H&R
directly because they don't sell to the public. If
you are a vendor, please
contact me off-list at
merritt@cedar-rapids.netRich/94
3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:37:24
-0700
From: Sharyn Ivey <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rotors are not coming off
Thanks for the feedback guys. The calipers are
just hanging (actually wired
up so as to save the hoses), but the damn things
are not breaking loose.
Is there a bolt on the car I can remove and use
in the little hole on the
rotor? I do not have many metric small bolts lying
around.
Andy Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:57:50
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotors are really on there
It is a standard metric bolt. I
don't recall the size. However last time I
removed my rotors, I used
one of the bolts on the front caliper, I think it
was one of the bolts that
hold the two halves together. It was the correct
size. Just
thread it into the rotor and it will loosen it. Just don't
forget to
torque it correctly when you replace it back in the caliper.
Good
luck,
Ken
> I got the wheel off. No Problem.
> I got the
brake off. No problem.
> I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff
Lucius' page on changing
rotors.
> It says you really have to pound in
order get the rotors off. Well, I have
> pounded -- and pounded. For an
hour. And the rotor is getting the last
> laught.
> I notice that
both rotors have two little holes about 1/4 inch diam. One
of
> these
is threaded. Does anyone know the size of the bolt that will go into
>
this little hole. Maybe putting a bolt in the hole and using it to give
>
leverage against the hub will force it to break loose. Any
suggestions
would
> be much appreciated.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:03:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
Dont break the caliper apart..the
fluid channels are internal..and best
left undisturbed.
On Wed, 18 Apr
2001, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> It is a standard metric bolt. I
don't recall the size. However last time I
> removed my rotors, I
used one of the bolts on the front caliper, I think it
> was one of the
bolts that hold the two halves together. It was the correct
>
size. Just thread it into the rotor and it will loosen it. Just
don't
> forget to torque it correctly when you replace it back in the
caliper.
>
> Good luck,
> Ken
>
> > I got the
wheel off. No Problem.
> > I got the brake off. No problem.
>
> I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff Lucius' page on
changing
> rotors.
> > It says you really have to pound in order
get the rotors off. Well, I have
> > pounded -- and pounded. For an
hour. And the rotor is getting the last
> > laught.
> > I
notice that both rotors have two little holes about 1/4 inch diam. One
>
of
> > these is threaded. Does anyone know the size of the bolt that
will go into
> > this little hole. Maybe putting a bolt in the hole and
using it to give
> > leverage against the hub will force it to break
loose. Any suggestions
> would
> > be much appreciated.
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:15:09
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
I had a hard time trying to use
the bolt method once FINALLY finding the right size bolt to fit in there.
I honestly had better luck POUNDING THE CRAP out of my rotors. All four
were pretty damn hard. The rears were a bit easier than the fronts
though. I SOAKED mine in penetrating oil like all day long before even
attempting ~either~ method of removing them. Finally, when the little bolt
attempt failed, I just found a REAL BIG rubber mallet, and beat on the stupid
rotor, two nice hard hits, then rotate 90 degrees, then repeat. they
finally came off, after about two whole revolutions... I used ALOT of
force.
- -Cody
#> It is a standard metric bolt. I don't
recall the size. However
#last time I
#> removed my rotors, I
used one of the bolts on the front caliper,
#I think it
#> was one of
the bolts that hold the two halves together. It was
#the
correct
#> size. Just thread it into the rotor and it will loosen
it. Just don't
#> forget to torque it correctly when you replace it
back in the caliper.
#>
#> Good luck,
#> Ken
#>
#> > I got the wheel off. No Problem.
#> > I got the brake
off. No problem.
#> > I read the archive, and I think I read Jeff
Lucius' page on changing
#> rotors.
#> > It says you really have
to pound in order get the rotors off.
#Well, I have
#> > pounded --
and pounded. For an hour. And the rotor is getting the last
#> >
laught.
#> > I notice that both rotors have two little holes about 1/4
inch
#diam. One
#> of
#> > these is threaded. Does anyone
know the size of the bolt that
#will go into
#> > this little hole.
Maybe putting a bolt in the hole and using it to give
#> > leverage
against the hub will force it to break loose. Any suggestions
#>
would
#> > be much appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 03:51:46
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Bad Vendor II
I recently informed you of my problems dealing with
Autobahn North America
/
www.nascarplace. Essentially, after an ordeal
of trying to get them to
answer queries, I finally found that they don't
carry H&R wheel spacers any
more. I have no idea when they were planning
to tell me that. If I hadn't
gotten rude and pushy, I'd still be waiting for
parts that would never come.
Here is yet another reason to not do
business with these people: They are
vastly overpriced.
I went to
www.carparts.com and purchased the same
H&R spacers for $84
(after discounts). Autobahn wanted $132.15 for the
exact same parts (both
prices include shipping).
If this message makes
all 1100 of you on two lists think twice about
dealing with these guys, they
will be getting what they deserve from
treating customers badly.
I
hope this isn't too far off topic.
Rich/3000GT VR4 twin turbo
AWD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:54:12
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
Sorry to hear all the
troubles. Mine came off like a breeze. Maybe put the
wheel back
on and have the local Brakes place use air wrenches to loosen the
rotor for
you. Usually they will do this for free or just a few bucks
of
time.
Oh, and if you have changed rotors (Supra, Porsche,
Porterfield, non-stock,
etc.) you might need to find a different-sized bolt
to thread in there.
However, once it IS off then invest in some
much-needed anti-seize compound
(that gray goopy paste stuff that stains
everything it touches) and that
will prevent the rotor from sticking
again. Then go ahead and coat the
threads of the studs where the rotor
goes over so your lug nuts will never
get stuck. A little goes a long
way. I applied a small dab over 6 months
ago and I have removed the
wheels, calipers, and rotors probably over 30
times already with no problem
(thanks, JCZoom).
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent:
Thursday, April 19, 2001 1:15 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rotors
are really on there
I had a hard time trying to use the bolt method once
FINALLY finding the
right size bolt to fit in there. I honestly had
better luck POUNDING THE
CRAP out of my rotors. All four were pretty
damn hard. The rears were a
bit easier than the fronts though. I
SOAKED mine in penetrating oil like
all day long before even attempting
~either~ method of removing them.
Finally, when the little bolt attempt
failed, I just found a REAL BIG rubber
mallet, and beat on the stupid rotor,
two nice hard hits, then rotate 90
degrees, then repeat. they finally
came off, after about two whole
revolutions... I used ALOT of
force.
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:12:38
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rotors are really on there
I used the bolt-hole to try to remove stock
rotors from my 93 once, and
instead of loosening the rotor off, it started to
crack and buckle away just
a small portion of the rotor around that bolt hole
only. Seeing it cracking
and STILL not coming off, car went to dealer
where it became their problem
:)
Jack T.
From: "Geoff
Mohler"
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
> Yes, thats
exactly what those threaded holes are for.
> Im suprised they are NOT in
the FAQ on rotor removal.
> Its a pretty standard threadsize for a Jap
car...although I dont know it
offhand.
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2001,
Sharyn Ivey wrote: changing rotors.
> > you really have to pound in
order get the rotors off. Well, I have
pounded For an hour.
> > both
rotors have two holes 1/4 inch diam.
> > Maybe putting a bolt in the
hole and using it to give
> > leverage against the hub will force it to
break loose.
> > Andy Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:08:43
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
That is exactly what those little
holes are for. I don't recall whether
they are coarse or fine thread,
but they are real cheap. I think they were
10mmx24 bolts. You
should be able to thread them in by hand. If not, you
have the wrong
thread. Then you tighten each a little until the rotor lets
loose from
the hub. Clean as much corrosion as you can from the hub and
rotor
before reinstalling and apply anti-seize compound to save trouble
next
time.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sharyn Ivey
[SMTP:awoll1@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:06
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
>
> I got the wheel
off. No Problem.
> I got the brake off. No problem.
> I read the
archive, and I think I read Jeff Lucius' page on changing
>
rotors.
> It says you really have to pound in order get the rotors off.
Well, I have
> pounded -- and pounded. For an hour. And the rotor is
getting the last
> laught.
> I notice that both rotors have two
little holes about 1/4 inch diam. One
> of
> these is threaded. Does
anyone know the size of the bolt that will go into
> this little hole.
Maybe putting a bolt in the hole and using it to give
> leverage against
the hub will force it to break loose. Any suggestions
> would
> be
much appreciated.
>
> Andy Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:15:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
sometimes that happens - the bolt
cracks away a little of the surrounding
rotor surface. I've had this
happen, but the rotor comes off. That part of
the rotor is not
important for function. Mine still work.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: xwing [SMTP:xwing@wi.rr.com]
> Sent: Thursday,
April 19, 2001 7:13 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
>
> I used the
bolt-hole to try to remove stock rotors from my 93 once, and
> instead of
loosening the rotor off, it started to crack and buckle away
>
just
> a small portion of the rotor around that bolt hole only.
Seeing it
> cracking
> and STILL not coming off, car went to dealer
where it became their problem
> :)
> Jack T.
>
> From:
"Geoff Mohler"
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
>
> Yes, thats exactly what those threaded holes are for.
> > Im
suprised they are NOT in the FAQ on rotor removal.
> > Its a pretty
standard threadsize for a Jap car...although I dont know it
>
offhand.
>
> > On Wed, 18 Apr 2001, Sharyn Ivey wrote: changing
rotors.
> > > you really have to pound in order get the rotors off.
Well, I have
> pounded For an hour.
> > > both rotors have two
holes 1/4 inch diam.
> > > Maybe putting a bolt in the hole and
using it to give
> > > leverage against the hub will force it to
break loose.
> > > Andy Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:31:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: learn from my mistake
I think somebody posted a similar warning a
couple of months back. When was
the last time you checked the air
pressure in your temporary spare tire?
I hit a pothole at about 10 mph
yesterday in my '93 VR4 and deflated a tire.
When I went to change to the
temporary spare, I checked the pressure: 10
psi instead of 60
psi! Then as I was filling it up, I started wondering
what the pressure
was in the temporary spare in my '94 VR4: 10psi! I was
in town
close to a filling station and had a spare car and cell phone. I
wonder
how high my blood pressure would have gone if this had happened out
in the
boondocks somewhere?
As many times as a adjust air pressure in my tires,
it could have taken
about 30 seconds to check either of these spares, but
somehow, it never
occurred to me as being important.
Ignore this
message at your own risk.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:39:02
EDT
From:
Phillystreetracn@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Rotors are really on there
i have a set of 2nd gen rotor
hanging on the wall (for my talon... ha) and
the thread seems to be a
10x1.50 metric.. good
luck.
~pete~
www.randskustumz.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 06:49:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Delphi Injectors
My hat's off to anyone who can actual
**USE** 720 cc/min injectors at
their limit let alone 890s (without nitrous
of course).
Running 720 cc/min injectors at a healthy 90% IDC is
injecting about
3888 cc/min (or about 370 lb/hr) of fuel. A person would need
about
4400-4600 lb/hr of air to go with that, or 1050-1100+ CFM of air.
A
density ratio of 3:1 at 7000 RPM and 95% VE would be required in
our
2.972-L engine. That means **at least** 29 psi of boost, which
also
happens to be about the pressurizing limit for turbos that are
sized
for our cars.
Now Mark, you are just joking about needing 890
cc/min injectors,
right?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 18, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: Delphi
Injectors
Can anyone tell me if the injectors for "American Iron"..i.e.
92
Camaro, are the same dimensionally as our injectors. Will they
fit
in our fuel rail and manifolds?
Delphi makes some top feed, low
impedance injectors and they are of
the "Bosch style". These are
available in sizes up to
85lb/hr(890cc/min) and the availability is much
greater(i.e. lower
price).
http://www.delphiauto.com/pdf/eandepdfs/mpfi_tf.pdfMark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:12:27
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: learn from my mistake
I also learned a similar lesson and
that is to ALWAYS carry at least two
cans of Fix-a-Flat or similar
product. This will fill every hole I've ever
had in a tire long enough
to get to a service station. They claim 50 miles
but it can be taken
much MUCH farther in an emergency.
This will not repair a hole in the
sidewall of a tire so be careful as
sometimes only those large plugs will do
the trick. Fortunately, the stock
245/40/18 tires have a fairly small
sidewall so most punctures will occur in
the tread.
I do keep my spare
tire aired up and have had a full-size spare for several
months since I do
not use the trunk. This is great peace of mind since I
would not be
limited to the 45 mph recommended speed that the spare is.
Oh yeah ...
some Fix-a-flat cans say that they are NOT recommended for
Z-rated or
performance tire applications. Read the label.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001
9:32 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: learn from my mistake
I think
somebody posted a similar warning a couple of months back. When was
the
last time you checked the air pressure in your temporary spare tire?
I
hit a pothole at about 10 mph yesterday in my '93 VR4 and deflated a
tire.
When I went to change to the temporary spare, I checked the
pressure: 10
psi instead of 60 psi! Then as I was filling it up,
I started wondering
what the pressure was in the temporary spare in my '94
VR4: 10psi! I was
in town close to a filling station and had a
spare car and cell phone. I
wonder how high my blood pressure would
have gone if this had happened out
in the boondocks somewhere?
As many
times as a adjust air pressure in my tires, it could have taken
about 30
seconds to check either of these spares, but somehow, it never
occurred to me
as being important.
Ignore this message at your own
risk.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:32:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on geometry?
I measured (crudely)
the offset on my stock 17" 1992 Stealth TT
wheel. Placing the "outside" rim
on the garage floor I put a straight
edge across the "inside" rim. The
distance to the mounting surface
was about 6-9/16". The width of the wheel
was about 9-9/16". The
mounting surface is about 45.24 mm from the center of
the wheel
[(9.5625/2)-6.5625 inches]. Given that I was using a
simple
retractable measuring tape and rounded to the closest 1/16", I
would
say that the factory service manual quoted 46-mm offset is
correct.
Do the non-US models really have 42-mm offset
wheels?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 16, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect
on geometry?
>> The "official" Mitsubishi listing states that Z15A
& Z16A models
all have a 42mm offset, as do the peeps at
Sorry for
the confusion. I should have stated all ***US*** models
have a 46 mm
offset.
Look at the US service manuals. I have copies of the actual pages
at
the link below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-wheelspecs.htmALL
US models are listed as having 46-mm offsets according to the
service
manuals. I have no idea what wheels were installed on
Japanese and European
models. In fact I have not measured the offset.
I am having a tire taken off
my stock 17" 1992 wheel soon and I will
measure the offset to see if the
manuals are reporting this
correctly.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To:
"Team3S Technical Forum" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 16, 2001 5:02 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect
on geometry?
Jeff wrote>
>ALL factory 3S wheels have a
46 mm offset. All years, all sizes
(16",
>17", 18", even the spare),
all models.
The "official" Mitsubishi listing states that Z15A & Z16A
models all
have a 42mm offset, as do the peeps at
http://www.takakaira.com/rimsandtyres/rimsspecs/mitsubishirims.htmlAs
I want to up-size the wheels without affecting the existing
steering
characteristics it is important to have the original
dimensions to calculate
from. So is it 42 or 46 as Std. On 17x8.5 and
18x8.5 rims? (I don't have std
rims to check). Is it possible that
there is a difference between
UK/Japan/USA?
Your totally confused Irish member.
- --
George
Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions Ltd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:44:37
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: learn from my mistake
Spare tire ??? What spare tire
;-)
I do have "Tire Fix" and this works for about 80km without a problem
:)
Of course works only with the rim isn't damaged.
>I think
somebody posted a similar warning a couple of months back. When
was
>the last time you checked the air pressure in your temporary spare
tire?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#469
*********************