team3s
Monday, April 16
2001
Volume 01 : Number
466
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 16 Apr 2001 11:38:19 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: tranny forsale on ebay item #580108826
Just so no one gets
their hopes up, or is misled by this ad, it is NOT
a complete tranny, the guy
is only selling the GEARS out of it. I
don't hear many people breaking gears
in our tranny's just synchro's,
so who know's if this is even useful,
especially at $450. And even
though he states "there is no reserve", there
IS, and it's more than
$450. Save your money.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=580108826
It
does include a "stock clutch" and a transfercase... but who knows
how many
miles the clutch would really have.
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 03:09:12
EDT
>From:
LizVong21@aol.com>Subject: Team3S:
tranny forsale on ebay item #580108826
>$450 dollar tranny just to let
everyone know no reserve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:13:09
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: '91
Stealth Alarm System
I have a 1991 Stealth R/T Turbo which has the
factory alarm, which a previous
owner supplemented with keyless entry.
As it sits, the keyless entry does
not operate the alarm, which makes little
sense, because when I lock the door
with a key or the interior lock button
on the inside of the door, the
security system
works.
Questions:
Does anyone know if the factory security system
in the '91 stealth R/T Turbo
can be operated by remote to lock/unlock the
doors?
In the alternative, can the factory security system be assisted by
a keyless
entry system which can arm/disarm the OE System? If so, where
would i wire it
in?
any thoughts would be appreciated.
-
-Thor
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo (Owned for three weeks and
counting!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 11:33:17
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
Am I missing something or is all this BOV
talk a lot of "hot air"?;-)
Seems that there is a lot of discussion about a
mod that Mr. Lucius finds to
be mostly cosmetic.
- --
Paul/.
95
black 3000GT VR-4 w/ super-exotic stock BOV
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 12:50:15
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
> Am I missing something or is all
this BOV talk a lot
> of "hot air"?;-) Seems that there is a lot
of
> discussion about a mod that Mr. Lucius finds to
> be mostly
cosmetic.
My car hits full boost quicker with the DSM BOV on it, and I
had to adjust
my boost controller to be a bit "quicker" to more accurately
control boost
after I installed it. In my case, the stock one leaked
enough air back into
the pre-turbo side of the intake where some boost
efficiency was lost.
Your mileage may vary, but I believe the 1G DSM BOV
is a good mod for the
money (just getting rid of the "honking goose" sound
was worth the money).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 20:52:08
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on geometry?
The OZ Mito 1/2 17x8.5
are officially approved in Europe for an offset of
41
mm
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 11:56:12
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVCR / Boost problem update
Mark,
Please feel free to call
me for help with your problem. I am at home on and
off today and
tomorrow and can also be reached in the evenings too.
> When i turn
the AVCR my boost guage piller pod hits 7 on the dot,
> no spikes just
right up to 7, very quickly and stays there all the way
> through
>
to redline in every gear..
This is right. When your boost
controller is off, the wastegates limit your
boost. Your particular
wastegate springs actuate at 7 psi.
> Then i turn on my AVCR and use
setting A at
> 1.00 bar
> and 30% duty ALL across the board,
(every rpm) and i do some runs, i
> spike 10 on the
> boost
guage then it immediately drops to 7 and stays, until i shift, it
> spikes
10 and then drops again.
This sounds about right. Your duty cycle
needs to start low at about 40% at
2500 RPM and rise with RPM to about
65%-70% at 5500 RPM (learn mode will set
the correct values).
>
Then i set the avcr to setting B, which is set at .95 bar and in learn
>
mode which was set at 55% duty all the way across the board... i hit 7
>
psi and stayed there, nothing else..
What is probably happening is with
the high duty cycle, you immediately
overboost in the first RPM band
and the learn mode disables for subsequant
RPM bands. Try setting your
"initial duty cycle setting" to 40% and see if
learn mode works
correctly.
> but setting A spiked 10, and then
> dropped to
seven. I havn't been able to go over 10 my entire time ive
>
had this unit. Wondering if anyone has any more suggestions..
Have
you tried and exhausted previous suggestions? If so which ones?
You
are certain your wires and hoses are installed correctly and that you
have no
leaks? Have you tried contacting a local 3SI member or Apexi
dealer
that might help troubleshoot? Have you tried "my current
settings" that I
emailed you months ago? See the end of this post for
these settings
again...
> I guess
> this means that the avcr
is installed correctly, wires..
Please clarify what you've done and what
you've verified to be correct.
>I also have the
> AFC and
both the throttle, and RPM's match so it must be setup correctly
> there..
I only have a few differences.. where the voltage on the AVCR
> goes crazy
at idle until i rev it up then it eases out.. The problem
> here is that
when idle the RPM guage on the avcr goes crazy up and down
> all over the
place, until i rev it then it smooths out and displays the
> correct
rpm... but when i let off the gas it hits zero and then starts
> jumping
up and down very quiclkly again. I havn't been able to fix this
> since
ive had the unit.
My Apexi RPM readings also bounce around about 40-60
RPM even though the
tachometer seems steady. What variation in RPM are
you seeing?
Good luck, and feel free to call
Ken Middaugh
Vista,
CA
760-597-825
<<<<
> Here are my complete settings
for my '91 VR4 5 speed with stock diameter
tires,
> stock turbos &
exhaust:
>
> Main - etc. - 1. Car Select
> Cyl = 6 Use 6 when
connected to RPM wire, 1 when connected to IDC wire
> Spd = 4 Speed pulse,
Mitsu uses 4 (whatever that is)
> Thr 7 (Up arrow) As you press down on
the throttle the voltage goes up
>
> Main - etc. - 2. Sensor
Select
> 1. Relative1 Use up/down arrows to select this, then hit PREV to
get back
to
> Main - etc. screen
>
> Main - etc. - 3. Gear
Judge
> There is a procedure to set this while driving, but here are my
values for
5
> speed and stock diameter tires
> 1st = 099
>
2nd = 058
> 3rd = 036
> 4th = 026
> 5th = 021
> The
SAVC-R can determine which gear you're in by calculating RPM /
Speed
km/hr
>
> Main - etc. - 4. Graph Scale
> Just used
for plotting, not important but here are my current settings
> Bs (boost)
= 1.0 kg/cm^^2
> Ne (RPM) = 7000
> Sp (speed) = 240
km/hr
>
> Main - etc. - 5. Sensor Check
> no settings, but you
can check throttle position sensor, boost sensor, and
> scramble
switch
>
> Main - etc. - 6. VFD Bright
> Brightness level of
the display
> Day = 90
> Dim = 60
> Nig = 20
>
>
Main - etc. - 7. Initialize
> ** Do not do this unless you want to erase
all of your customized
settings!
>
> Main - Setting A - 1.
Boost/Duty
> 1st screen, Bst: *** Dty: ***
> (Press NEXT to go to
the second screen and to toggle between boost and
duty)
> 2nd
screen
> Ne (RPM) Boost Duty
> 2500 1.00 40%
> 3500 1.00
45%
> 4000 1.05 50%
> 4500 1.05 48%
> 5000 1.05 56%
>
5500 1.00 64%
> 6000 1.00 42%
> 7000 1.00 40%
> The boost
values are my set points, the duty values are learned. If you
>
manually set the values, you might set them a few percent lower and
let
the
> SAVC-R learn the exact values. You will want to go to
3. Ne-Point first
to set
> your RPM ranges.
>
> Main -
Setting A - 2. Scramble
> I'm not using a scramble switch, no settings,
everything 0
>
> Main - Setting A - 3. Ne-Point (RPM ranges)
>
Ne 1 = 2500
> Ne 2 = 3500
> Ne 3 = 4000
> Ne 4 = 4500
>
Ne 5 = 5000
> Ne 6 = 5500
> Ne 7 = 6000
> Ne 8 = 7000
>
I specified the smallest granularity (500 RPM steps) from 3500-5500
RPM.
>
> Main - Setting A - 4. F/B Speed (feedback)
> 1st =
9
> 2nd = 8
> 3rd = 4
> 4th = 4
> 5th = 4
> You
want to select a feedback speed as high as possible. If the feedback
is
too
> high however, your boost will oscilliate around your selected
boost
setting.
> Use the Boost VS Time graph, start high, and keep
decreasing the feedback
until
> boost stops oscillating. You must
test and set for each gear.
>
> Main - Setting A - 5. Learn
Gear
> Enable or disable learning for each gear
> 1st = X
(off)
> 2nd = X
> 3rd = 0 (on)
> 4th = 0
> 5th =
0
>
> Main - Setting A - 6. Start Duty
> 1st = +50
> 2nd
= 0
> 3rd = 0
> 4th = 0
> 5th = 0
> Amount of duty (per
gear) added or subtracted from the learned duty
value.
>>>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 10:52:53
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVCR / Boost problem update
> On the solenoid there is the
front most connection which has a hose
> going to it,
> and also
there is the two side connections. one says NC and one says
>
COM..
> which one should it be on?
You should check that your
installation looks like the lower diagram on page
40 of the SAVC-R
Instruction Manual. Your pressure source hose (most likely
from the
connector on the back of the Y-Pipe) should attach to the NO
(normally open)
barb of the solenoid. The COM barb should be connected to a
tee
connector. Each of the other two barbs on the tee connector should
go
to one of the wastegate actuators. If you didn't replace the stock
"H"
connector with a tee, then you will need to make sure that the 4th hose
that
goes from the "H" connector to the stock boost control solenoid
is
disconnected and the barb on the "H" connector is capped closed.
Also, you
will need to cap off the other hose on the stock boost control
solenoid so
it doesn't leak.
Once you verify that the hoses are
connected correctly, you may want to use
an inexpensive pressure/vacuum pump
to apply 10 psi of pressure to make sure
there are no leaks. Use the
hose that goes to the NO barb of the solenoid
to pressurize and
test.
Good luck,
Ken Middaugh
Vista, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:09:16
+0200
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Subject:
Team3S: rims
I'm using standard 16" rims on my 3000GT. They are not in
perfect condition.
How can I paint them. How many layers, what kind of paints
should I use? I
heard something about plastic layer.
Can I have "chrome
alloys look"?
thanks for help
regards
Andrzej
Artymowicz
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.plPoland
tel.
+48 601 250368 C
tel. +48 22 6715375 H
'95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA,
DOHC, 5-speed) 40000mi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:08:52
+0200
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Subject:
Team3S: brake question
Hello!
I'm driving '95 Base, 225/55/16
(sorry no ABS... :( 3000GT just for month.
I'm very happy but I
have question: How to improve brakes in my car, without
spending too much
cash? (<$600).
Thanks for support regards
Andrzej
Artymowicz
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.plPoland
tel.
+48 601 250368 C
tel. +48 22 6715375 H
'95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA,
DOHC, 5-speed) 40000mi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 12:18:54
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brake question
Dollars in $US.
1) Change your brake
fluid (try Ate 200 @ $8.50/liter)
2) Add SS brake lines (~$200)
3) Get
some Kevlar-blend pads (~$250)
or maybe just
4) Stickier tires (~$150/tire
for Nitto 555 or similar)
More details on brake stuff at my web page
below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrzej Artymowicz" <
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
To:
"3000GT list" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 16, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: brake
question
Hello!
I'm driving '95 Base, 225/55/16 (sorry no ABS...
:( 3000GT just for
month. I'm very happy but I have question: How
to improve brakes in
my car, without spending too much cash?
(<$600).
Thanks for support regards
Andrzej Artymowicz
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.plPoland
tel.
+48 601 250368 C
tel. +48 22 6715375 H
'95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA,
DOHC, 5-speed) 40000mi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 14:24:44
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brake question
>I'm driving '95 Base, 225/55/16 (sorry no
ABS... :( 3000GT just for month.
>I'm very happy but I have
question: How to improve brakes in my car, without
>spending too much
cash? (<$600).
>
Your stock brakes are fine, unless you plan to
drive very fast down
mountain roads. The problem with our brakes is that they
heat up fast, so
the pads fade and the brake fluid boils. If you can't afford
to buy
expensive parts like Big Red calipers, then the best thing to do is
help
your car cool its brakes.
The four least expensive things you
can do are:
1. Remove the backing plate from behind the rotors. This
prevents cooling
air from getting to your rotors. (cost: zero)
2.
Install a set of brake cooling ducts to bring cooling air directly to
your
rotors. Go to
www.bazillionbooks.com, racing photos,
to see a really
cheap set of scoops. (cost: $10 for the hose)
3.
Install water injection to cool the brakes. Run 1/4 in. rubber hoses
from the
windshield washer to each rotor. Disconnect the wiper motor by
pulling the
plug. When you need to inject water onto the rotors, flip the
windshield
washer lever (cost: $10 for the hose)
4. Remove the inner fender wells behind
the intercoolers. This will allow
more air to reach the rotors. (cost:
zero)
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:35:30
-0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: A/C
Compressor on/off. Help needed!
Dear friends Hi!
Here I need some help
if someone has some experience at the A/C system of
the RT TT 92’. My
compressor after 2-3 minutes of operation starts going
on/off. Even if I set
the control to the lower point (should keep the
compressor on for a while)
the same symptom happens. On/off every 5-10
seconds. I check the gas;
is ok. I know that our cars have 2-3 sensors that
they can cut the
compressor. Please give some feedback.
Nikos the Greek
92' RT
TT
Puerto Rico
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:37:10
EDT
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
'91 Stealth Alarm System
The facorty alarm can definitely be operated
from a remote that also locks
and unlocks the doors. If you have the
reciever in the car, the remote can
be purchased and programmed from/by any
mitsubishi dealership. When i
originially got my car i didnt have the
remote, and they gave me one and
programmed it for free when i got the
60,000 mile service done, so i cant
tell you the price.
They can also install the receiver, which may be
necessary, depending on
how the aftermarket system on your car has been
wired. The reciever i
believe is in the 150 - 200 dollar range.
Hoewever, it seems to me that it should be rather simple
to get the
aftermarket keyless entry system to activate the factory
alarm. But you
might have to get a private stereo/alarm type place to
do that.
Good luck,
Joe
93 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:08:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brake questions..
Better pads (Porterfield R4-S for $156
all-around + shipping), or an
upgrade to 2nd gen brake hardware would get you
to the $600 point pretty
quick..but _really_ make a difference.
2nd
gen porterfield rotors+pads would cost about $513+shipping brand new.
On
Mon, 16 Apr 2001, Andrzej Artymowicz wrote:
>
> Hello!
>
> I'm driving '95 Base, 225/55/16 (sorry no ABS... :( 3000GT
just for month.
> I'm very happy but I have question: How to improve
brakes in my car, without
> spending too much cash? (<$600).
>
> Thanks for support regards
>
> Andrzej Artymowicz
>
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Poland
> tel. +48 601 250368 C
> tel. +48 22 6715375 H
>
> '95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed) 40000mi
>
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:12:26
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A/C Compressor on/off. Help needed!
Hi Nikos,
I used to
have a Ford that would get these symptoms every few years. The
remedy
was to replace the AC compressor clutch. See if a shop can diagnose
it
for you.
Good luck,
Ken Middaugh
Vista, CA
> Here I need
some help if someone has some experience at the A/C system of
> the RT TT
92’. My compressor after 2-3 minutes of operation starts going
> on/off.
Even if I set the control to the lower point (should keep the
> compressor
on for a while) the same symptom happens. On/off every 5-10
>
seconds. I check the gas; is ok. I know that our cars have 2-3
sensors
that
> they can cut the compressor. Please give some
feedback.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 16:15:11
EDT
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
All the hubbub RE: BOV?
n a message dated 4/16/01 4:08:29 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
mjannusch@marketwatch.com
writes:
<< No, I am hitting my boost limit quicker because of the
BOV. It isn't
leaking pressurized air back into the intake,
making the boost climb more
rapidly.
>>
Your stock BOV will not leak air with the
stock boost controller unless
its defective. When I had a 94 Toyota
MR2 Turbo, I tested it on a dyno stock
and with just a BOV and the power
curves were exactly the same. Changing the
BOV with no other
modifications will do nothing for you power/boost
level/rate of boost
increase/anything else except maybe sound cool.
Joe
93
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 16:29:00
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: All
the hubbub RE: BOV?
So the fact that aftermarket valves can actuate more
quickly and accurately
than stock, as well as hold boost levels higher than
stock, is just a myth?
It's amazing that HKS and Greddy are able to sell
these "useless" parts for
$200+.
When we replaced the crummy stock BOV
on my friend's 95 Talon TSi (same unit
as on our cars) we noticed that the
turbo was able to hold more boost and
that it didn't drop off as drastically
during shifts. Oh yeah, it sounded
cool too :)
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
Merlin916@aol.comSent:
Monday, April 16, 2001 4:15 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
n a message dated 4/16/01 4:08:29
PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mjannusch@marketwatch.com
writes:
<< No, I am hitting my boost limit quicker because of the
BOV. It isn't
leaking pressurized air back into the intake,
making the boost climb more
rapidly.
>>
Youre stock BOV will not leak air with
the stock boost controller unless
its defective. When I had a 94 Toyota
MR2 Turbo, I tested it on a dyno
stock
and with just a BOV and the power
curves were exactly the same. Changing
the
BOV with no other
modifications will do nothing for you power/boost
level/rate of boost
increase/anything else except maybe sound cool.
Joe
93
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:33:41
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
On a completely stock 3/S, the stock
BOV is fine, but even cranking the
boost up to 15psi, may cause the stock
BOV to leak. You'll denfinatly want
to upgrade the BOV if going any
higher than 15psi. My stock BOV started
leaking around
14-15psi.
I'm working on manufacturing the adapter for the 1g DSM BOV, so
you can use
it on a 3/S. Price will be around $30 plus shipping.
I'll know for sure in
about a week.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Merlin916@aol.com>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 16:15:11
EDT
>
>n a message dated 4/16/01 4:08:29 PM Eastern Daylight
Time,
>mjannusch@marketwatch.com writes:
>
><< No, I am
hitting my boost limit quicker because of the BOV. It isn't
>
leaking pressurized air back into the intake, making the boost climb
more
> rapidly.
>
>>
>
>
> Youre stock BOV will
not leak air with the stock boost controller
>unless
>its
defective. When I had a 94 Toyota MR2 Turbo, I tested it on a dyno
>stock
>and with just a BOV and the power curves were exactly the
same. Changing
>the
>BOV with no other modifications will do
nothing for you power/boost
>level/rate of boost increase/anything else
except maybe sound cool.
>
>Joe
>93
RT/TT
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 16:37:10
EDT
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
All the hubbub RE: BOV?
In a message dated 4/16/01 4:34:47 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
curt_gendron@hotmail.com
writes:
<< On a completely stock 3/S, the stock BOV is fine, but
even cranking the
boost up to 15psi, may cause the stock BOV to
leak. You'll denfinatly want
to upgrade the BOV if going any
higher than 15psi. My stock BOV started
leaking around 14-15psi.
>>
Yes Curt I have to agree. The stock BOV
is set to operate only at normal
pressures, and can leak at even a slight
boost mod, because its there as a
safeguard.
Joe
93
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:43:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: "boost-a-spark"
Does anyone have any experience with these
devices that amplify the
voltage going to the coils - like the Kenne Bell
Boost-a-spark or B&M
Racing New Volt Power Unit? From the circuit
diagram, it looks like
we have a separate wire going to each coil. So I
figure it would take
3 of these units for our setup. I would guess they
install after the
power transistor. From reports here it looks like coil
replacement
options like the MDS systems really don't make that much
difference.
So maybe helping the stock coils would be better. Any thoughts?
Other alternatives?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:49:47
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A/C Compressor on/off. Help needed!
Hello,
The most common
reason for this seems to be a faulty pressure switch. It is
located on the
dryer. Unplug the connector and jumper the two terminals (on
the harness
side) with a paper clip. If the compressor stops cutting
on/off, you need to
verify you have a full charge. If you do, you need to
replace the switch,
which cannot be ordered by itself. It comes as part of
the
dryer.
Wayne
At 03:35 PM 4/16/01 , Nickolaos M. Sgouros
wrote:
>Dear friends Hi!
>Here I need some help if someone
has some experience at the A/C system of
>the RT TT 92'. My compressor
after 2-3 minutes of operation starts going
>on/off. Even if I set the
control to the lower point (should keep the
>compressor on for a while)
the same symptom happens. On/off every 5-10
>seconds. I check the
gas; is ok. I know that our cars have 2-3 sensors that
>they can cut the
compressor. Please give some feedback.
>
>Nikos the Greek
>92'
RT TT
>Puerto Rico
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:52:35
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: "boost-a-spark"
I gapped my plugs down to .030 from .034 (denso
iridium) to see if that
would help with the spark blowout at high
boost. This helped, but did not
completely fix the problem. Next,
I installed a HKS twin power ignition amp
and made some runs. This
fixed the spark blowout, so it seems to have
helped. This is a very
easy unit to install, it takes about 5 min.
Rich
on 4/16/01
1:43 PM, Jeff Lucius at
stealthman92@yahoo.com
wrote:
> Does anyone have any experience with these devices that
amplify the
> voltage going to the coils - like the Kenne Bell
Boost-a-spark or B&M
> Racing New Volt Power Unit? From the circuit
diagram, it looks like
> we have a separate wire going to each coil. So I
figure it would take
> 3 of these units for our setup. I would guess they
install after the
> power transistor. From reports here it looks like coil
replacement
> options like the MDS systems really don't make that much
difference.
> So maybe helping the stock coils would be better. Any
thoughts? Other
> alternatives?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:04:17
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: IS THIS IT avcr install instructions
No shit??
my COM is
going to the ypipe connection, and the NO is going someone
behind the engine
near the rear turbo.
IS THIS MY PROBLEM ???
i just called someone
to double check that on my car, and that is how it
is set up.
So to verify
to you all,, NC has no connection hose, its totally open,
NO is
connected to a hose that runs to the rear turbo area, and the COM
is
connected
to a hose that connects to my y pipe!
Is this the problem.
did these hoses get confused? If this is it, im
going to buy every
member on the list a beer! HA
Mark
Reply soon.
Im getting
excited.
Russell Schwanke wrote:
>
> Here are instructions
that I received from a friend to install my
> avc-r(first gen) in my
stealth. I checked mine and NC is vented(no
> fitting). COM
and NO both have fittings on them. according to these
> instructions
NO goes to the y-pipe and COM taps off of a selenoid.
>
> good
luck,
> Russell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: Oskar <
osk@mediaone.net>
> To: Nathan Evans
<
MethodRYDER@astound.net>;
Russell Schwanke
> <
conquest_tsi@hotmail.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 10:37 PM
> Subject: Fw: Team3S: AVC-R
installation...
>
> > Hi guys - following are the e-mail
instructions I used when installing my
> > Apex~i S AVC-R.
Several others will follow. They pertain to settings and
> >
location of the solenoid. I strongly recommend soldering the wires
when
> you
> > tap into the ECU. Starange things can happen
with those pesky clip on
> wire
> > connectors. Good
luck. Holler if you have questions. The official
> >
instructions manual is 24 pages and I don't feel like scanning it - so I
>
> will make photocopies if you need it. Just let me know.
>
>
> > Later,
> > Oskar
> > '95 R/T TT
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Barry E.
King" <
beking@home.com>
> >
To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 6:00 PM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVC-R installation...
> >
> >
> > >
> >
>
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
>
> > > > Hi all,
> > > > I'm
looking for a hand in installing my new Apexi AVC-R boost
> > > >
controller.
> > >
> > > <snip>
> >
>
> > > > Basically, I'm just wondering
> > > >
what hoses I need to tap into. Naturally, the illustrations look
>
> > > far different then under my hood.
> > >
> >
> <snip>
> > >
> > > > Well, going by the
AVC-R illustrations it's
> > > > kinda difficult for me
to
> > > > make a determination as to what and where these hoses
are on my
> > > > car.
> > >
> > > >
It also looks like
> > > > I need to remove and not use the stock
BOV altogether, is this
> > > > correct?
> >
>
> > > The AVC-R does not require you to do anything to the
stock bypass valve.
> > >
> > > Once you have located
and identified the correct hoses, installation is
> > > really quite
straight forward but it can be confusing first time
> through.
>
> > Just go slowly and understand what is there and it will fall into
place.
> > >
> > > I will attempt to describe the hoses
and connections required.
> > >
> > > There is a hose
that runs from the rear of the intake plenum through the
> > > bunch
of metal connectors on the throttle body then to the firewall.
>
This
> > > is the fuel pressure regulator sense line. This is
typically where
> > > boostgauges are tapped into using a T
connector. You will need to tap
> > into
> > > this
hose for the AVC-R pressure sensor.
> > >
> > > The
AVC-R solenoied has three openings. One goes to atmosphere.
The
> > other
> > > two ("NO" and "COM") are tapped into
the stock system. First we'll deal
> > > weith the "NO"
connection.
> > >
> > > Locate the hose attached to the
back of the intake Y-pipe elbow. Follow
> > the
> > >
line from the Y-pipe to where it connects to the 4 way T fitting near
>
the
> > > rear turbo. Remove this hose. Be sure to cap
the fitting it used to be
> > > attahced to on the 4 way connector,
or replace the 4 way with a 3 way
> > > fitting. Your
choice.
> > >
> > > Connect a hose from the Y-pipe elbow
fitting to the solenoid's "NO"
> > fitting.
> > >
>
> > Locate the 4 way fitting again. there is a tube that runs from
it to
> the
> > > firewall and connects to the stock boost
solenoid. Remove this hose.
> Cap
> > > the stock boost
solenoid fitting. Connect a hose from the newly open
> > >
fitting to the "COM" connector of the AVC-R solenoid.
> > >
>
> > Locate a hose that runs from the rear turbo inlet pipe to the
firewall
> > stock
> > > solenoid location. Remove
this hose. Cap the fittings on the turbo
> inlet
> > >
pipe and the stock solenoid.
> > >
> > > You're
done. Just some hints: Make sure that all fittings are
secure.
> > Use
> > > clamps if possible and correct size
connectors for the hose. Route all
> > > hoses away from heat
sources and moving parts. It is a good idea to
> > fasten
>
> > them in place with tie wraps or clips of some sort. Make sure
you mount
> > the
> > > solenoid on a flat surface, ideally
horizontal, and be sure to use the
> > > supplied rubber pad.
in fact it is a good idea to add a layer or two.
> > Use
> >
> all four screws to securely fasten the solenoid in place.
Boost
> solenoids
> > > will sometimes transmit the sound they
make when they are being cycled
> to
> > > the cabin if they
are not properly sound insulated.
> > >
> > >
>
> >
> > > > thanks in advance,
> > > >
Jason
> > >
> > >
> > > Best of luck.
Just walk through and locate all the hoses and
> connections
> >
> before disconnecting anything and understand what needs to be hooked
up
> > > where. Label things before you remove them if you are
unsure. That way
> > > there is no doubt as to where they go
back if need be.
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
> > Barry
> > >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:07:09
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Syncros
We can buy syncros from kormex right?
my third is
going.. I have to hesitate to slip it in to gear or else it
grinds like
hell.
I thought i heard that you can replace 3rd gear syncro... does this
mean
new tranny??
ew!
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:12:41
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: AVCR & AFC install Pics Was Re: Supra vs. VR-4
Hey if you all
want to see the AVCR and AFC that i installed last year,
check it
out.
Some of you saw it at the michigan gathering. Ive installed them
very
nicely and quietly
in the middle arm rest.. They fit perfectly.
Its almost like Apexi made
these specifically for this area!
Actually
if you zoom in you will see the pics larger and you can see
those wires
hanging over the side.
I used to close it like that because i didn't know
that there was a
little trap door underneath, since then ive rewired them so
its a clean
install. When the armrest is closed you don't know anythign is
there..
its perfect.
http://www.msu.edu/%7Ehindelan/stealth/interiorpics.htmEnjoy
Mark
jon
dossey wrote:
>
> I think you're talking about the Apex'i Super-AFC
(Air/Fuel Controller).
> That'll give you +/- 30% fuel control.
Depending on injector size, that
> might be fine for your
application. You can pick it up from
> dynamicracing.com for $350 +
shipping. Its got the blue digital face, looks
> VERY cool.
>
> .jon
>
> >From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@PlanetIce.net>
>
>Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net> >To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>
>Subject: RE: Supra vs. VR-4
> >Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 10:09:04
-0700
> >
> >Dam, what kind of system, what is that called the
ARC-II is that the new
> >white one with the blue cover? How much do
those run??
> >Matt
> >
> >-----Original
Message-----
> >From: jon dossey
[mailto:jon_3000gt@hotmail.com]
> >Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 7:57
AM
> >To:
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Subject: RE: Supra vs. VR-4
> >
> >
>
>Absolutely!
> >
> >.jon
> >
> >
>
> >From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@PlanetIce.net>
>
> >Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net> > >To:
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>
> >
>Subject: RE: Supra vs. VR-4
> > >Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 17:40:55
-0700
> > >
> > >Woah, so if i get 550 injectors I will
have to get a fuel system computer
> > >to
> > >use
them??? Or what??
> > >Matt
> > >
> >
>-----Original Message-----
> > >From: Dan Hedlund
[mailto:hedl0036@tc.umn.edu]
> > >Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001
11:23 AM
> > >To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> >
>Subject: RE: Supra vs. VR-4
> > >
> > >
> >
>Supra's also have a better fuel system - bigger fuel pump, 550cc
>
>injectors,
> > >and a computer that works with 550
injectors.
> > >
> > >Dan.
> > >
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: Steve
[mailto:nws3@winisp.net]
> > >Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 4:56
PM
> > >To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> >
>Subject: Re: Supra vs. VR-4
> > >
> > >
> >
>Inline 6 alows more room for a single large turbo.
> > >Their
hood itself has more room under it (they can fit strut tower
>
>braces).
> > >They can dyno....there are only a handful (maybe
3) AWD dynos in the US
> > >that
> > >are public, plus
AAM which only fairly recently had it. Therefor if you
> >
>want to be a dyno queen, you need a car to be dynoable.
> >
>
> > >Since dyno queens couldn't dyno our cars, they did other
cars instead,
> > >that's why there is a huge aftermarket for the
supra.
> > >
> > >That's why if you spend 5 grand on
_MODS_ for a supra and 5 grand on
> >_MODS_
> > >for a
VR4/TT.
> > >
> > >But here is a more intriguing
situation: spend 20 grand on a supra+mods
> > >and
> >
>spend 20grand on a VR4/TT on mods...who will be ahead on the dyno?
>
> >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message
-----
> > >From: <
TwInTuRbOedVR4@aol.com>
> >
>To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
> >
>Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 2:21 PM
> > >Subject: Supra vs.
VR-4
> > >
> > >
> > > > Why is it EASIER
for a Supra to make more horsepower than the 3000GT,
> >i
> >
>mean,
> > > > they have 6 cylinders, so do we, they have 3.0
liters, so do we, there
> > > > turbocharged, and hey, suprise,
we're turbocharged. I am NOT talking
> > >about
> > >
> performance numbers, because obviously, we're a bit chunkier. I am
>
> >talking
> > >in
> > > > Horsepower, all i
want to know is:
> > > > Is it easier to get more hp out of a
Supra than it is a 3000GT for the
> > >same
> > > >
money?
> > > > Ex: if you spend, say, $5000 each on the engine of
a Supra and a VR-4,
> > >buying
> > > > the same
aftermarket parts on each, will they have the same amount of
> > >
> horsepower?
> > > > This is my question because i simply see
so many Supras pushing out
> > >600+hp. I
> > > >
am not asking about how "streetable" the car is, I am simply
asking
> > >about
> > >if
> > > > it is
easier for a Supra to make more power? Thanks
> > >
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:25:43
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: PICTURE Cusco Rear Strut Bar
no i didn't get the side panels back
in, you have to cut a hole in them.
i could have done it, but messy.
when
i have some more time on a saturday ill take exact measurements,
and hacksaw
it away cleanly.
i saw an install on someones page and its beautiful.. very
clean.
let me see if i can go and find it.
Oops here it
is.
This is the same bar, nicely installed, you can see the
holes.
http://alteredatmosphere.com/Joes_pictures/dcp_0623.jpgMark
AINut
wrote:
>
> Didn't someone have an online picture of one
installed?
>
> You say it *doesn't* hurt interior luggage space
that much? Would you
> elaborate some, please?
>
> Oh
yeah, were you able to get the plastic side trims back into place
>
afterward?
>
> Thanks,
> AI Nut
>
> Mark William
Hindelang wrote:
> >
> > got mine for 117 at AA... Mike is a
big help.
> >
> > It took about 30 min to install, most
of the time was due
> > to getting those tight bolts off, and shedding
some blood because
> > it was so tight.. but well worth it.. its pretty
stiff now.
> > and looks awesome in the trunk area. doesn't
really hurt space that much..
> >
> > mark
>
>
> > >
> > > how much and how hard to
install?
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: jon dossey [mailto:jon_3000gt@hotmail.com]
> > >
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 3:52 PM
> > > To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> >
> Subject: RE: Cusco Rear Strut Bar
> > >
> >
>
> > > Strut Bar: Reduces body flex, improves
cornering/handling.
> > > Sway Bar (or anti-roll bar): reduces body
roll
> > >
> > > ...as i understand it.
> >
>
> > > .jon
> > >
> > >
> >
> >From: "Johnson, Michael" <
Michael.Johnson@ASTStockplan.com>
>
> > >Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net> > >
>To: "
'stealth@starnet.net'"
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>
> >
> >Subject: RE: Cusco Rear Strut Bar
> > > >Date: Mon, 16
Apr 2001 15:45:14 -0400
> > > >
> > > >What do
they do?
> > > >
> > > >-----Original
Message-----
> > > >From: jon dossey
[mailto:jon_3000gt@hotmail.com]
> > > >Sent: Monday, April 16,
2001 3:12 PM
> > > >To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> >
> >Subject: Re: Cusco Rear Strut Bar
> > > >
> >
> >
> > > >Oh, oh, i can't wait! Heh, mine is
supposed to be here thurs-fri. I've
> > > >heard nothing
but good things. Front/Rear sway bars next.
> > > >
>
> > >.jon
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > >From: "Mark William Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
> >
> > >Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net> > > >
>To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> >
> > >Subject: Re: Cusco Rear Strut Bar
> > > > >Date:
Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:09:46 -0400 (EDT)
> > > > >
> >
> > >yeah me too. took a while but finally got it.
> >
> > >
> > > > >and its a totally different car
now.
> > > > >
> > > > >ive been able to add
just about 10mph ontop of speeds limiting me from
> > > >
>skidding out, like on ramps , and corners.. its nice. I can't
imagine
> > > >what
> > > >
> > > >
>a
> > > > >front bar would feel like..
> > >
> >
> > > > >
> > > > >Mark
>
> > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> i just got mine from Accelerated Accessories, it took a couple of
>
> > > >months, but
> > > > >I put it on Saturday,
and it's cool.
> > > > > >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 19:31:08
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
All the hubbub RE: BOV?
I agree. I saw leakage when only upgrade was high
flow intake. I think
it is worth the $200-350 for a good BOV that will serve
you well as you
upgrade over time.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Curt
Gendron wrote:
>
> On a completely stock 3/S, the stock BOV is
fine, but even cranking the
> boost up to 15psi, may cause the stock BOV
to leak. You'll denfinatly want
> to upgrade the BOV if going any
higher than 15psi. My stock BOV started
> leaking around
14-15psi.
>
> I'm working on manufacturing the adapter for the 1g
DSM BOV, so you can use
> it on a 3/S. Price will be around $30 plus
shipping. I'll know for sure in
> about a week.
>
>
later,
> Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org>
> >From:
Merlin916@aol.com> >To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: All the hubbub RE: BOV?
> >Date: Mon, 16 Apr
2001 16:15:11 EDT
> >
> >n a message dated 4/16/01 4:08:29 PM
Eastern Daylight Time,
> >mjannusch@marketwatch.com writes:
>
>
> ><< No, I am hitting my boost limit quicker because of the
BOV. It isn't
> > leaking pressurized air back into the
intake, making the boost climb more
> > rapidly.
>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> Youre stock BOV will not leak air with the stock
boost controller
> >unless
> >its defective. When I had
a 94 Toyota MR2 Turbo, I tested it on a dyno
> >stock
> >and
with just a BOV and the power curves were exactly the same.
Changing
> >the
> >BOV with no other modifications will do
nothing for you power/boost
> >level/rate of boost increase/anything
else except maybe sound cool.
> >
> >Joe
> >93
RT/TT
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 19:33:12
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
brake questions..
Does the 20% 3S discount still apply? I stocked up a
while ago, and that
looks like the old discount we got. Is this long
standing?
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> Better pads (Porterfield R4-S for $156 all-around + shipping), or
an
> upgrade to 2nd gen brake hardware would get you to the $600 point
pretty
> quick..but _really_ make a difference.
>
> 2nd gen
porterfield rotors+pads would cost about $513+shipping brand new.
>
> On Mon, 16 Apr 2001, Andrzej Artymowicz wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hello!
> >
> > I'm driving '95 Base,
225/55/16 (sorry no ABS... :( 3000GT just for month.
> >
I'm very happy but I have question: How to improve brakes in my car,
without
> > spending too much cash? (<$600).
> >
>
> Thanks for support regards
> >
> > Andrzej
Artymowicz
> >
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl> >
Poland
> > tel. +48 601 250368 C
> > tel. +48 22 6715375
H
> >
> > '95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)
40000mi
> >
> ---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
>
California, USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#466
*********************
