team3s
Monday, April 16
2001
Volume 01 : Number
465
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Apr 2001 11:00:32 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Greddy BOV leaking-is this normal ?
I did notice one thing about
the Greddy BOV I have, and was hoping someone
could clarify. I applied
my handy vacuum pump to the BOV and noticed that
the vacuum does not hold
steady, it
gradually leaks off.
Isn't the vacuum fitting on the BVO
supposed to hold pressure and not leak ?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 12:38:22
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: some problems found with Greddy BOV
Well, after some
investigating, I found what are at lease some of my
problems with the Greddy
Type-S BOV.
I put my hand vacuum pump on it and noticed that the BOV
would not hold a
vacuum. If I applied a vacuum to it, the gauge would
not hold steady and
would bleed off to 0.
I took a closer look at the
BOV, and put some Teflon tape on the chrome
vacuum fitting, and on the
adjustment screw.
Then I applied a vacuum again, and the reading held
steady. Before doing
this I could not get the BOV to open with the
vacuum pump. Now when I
applied approximately 20 in hg. the valve
opened.
So it looked like the BOV was leaking so bad it was either hardly
opening,
or if it opened, it was so gradual due to the leaking that I never
heard or
felt it.
Now that I could get the BOV to open with my pump, I
tried to see what
effect the adjustment screw had on it. It seems that
the adjustment screw
controls how far the valve opens. It seems to open
at the same vacuum no
matter the adjustment.
But if the adjustment
screw is all the way out, the valve opens all the way,
and the more you turn
in the screw, the less the valve opens.
I looked at the factory service
manual, and noticed that the stock BOV is
supposed to open at 16 in hg, so it
looks like the Greddy is very close to
stock, as far as opening vacuum
required.
I am not sure this is normal operation of the Greddy, but
I couldn't get
the vendor I purchased it from to work with me to resolve the
problem.
After I get a change to install it, I will get back.
Anthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 19:01:08
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: some problems found with Greddy BOV
I remember that I told
you to open the BOV. Only a few small bolts. You then
would probably see the
problem and is an easy fix. Otherwise, just send it
back to GT PRO and let it
replace.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Well, after some
investigating, I found what are at lease some of my
> problems with the
Greddy Type-S BOV.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 19:06:02
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo / HP goal
> first of all, who has the most
hp?
God !
> I know this is a general question, but when we rate
hp
> on our cars, are we talking about to the wheels.. what am i
pushing
> on the ground?? or is it to the crank???
On the dyno both
is measured.
> more details on the car, keep upping the boost to give
that 500-600hp.
Replace internals for this goal.
> are the 15gs
good for this, or is it recommended to jump right into other
> turbos that
GTPro offers. like the 357's or the 399R's or the 368sx, or
simply
>
the 15g. Honestly what is the difference between all these
guys?
357 are like 15g. You better go with other stuff first and then
with the
turbos. Difference of them is size. 399 are mega-overkill, 368 are
too large
as well (i know !)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 10:06:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on geometry?
ALL factory 3S wheels
have a 46 mm offset. All years, all sizes (16",
17", 18", even the spare),
all models.
Aftermarket wheels can have a smaller offset, which moves the
wheel
out away from the centerline of the car. Popular offsets are in
the
range of 35 mm to 42 mm. Wider wheels should have smaller
offsets.
Going to a 9" wheel from the factory 8.5" wheel (for the turbo
crowd)
will require the wheel offset to be 1/4", or 6.35 mm less in order
to
keep the inside rim of the wheel at the same distance from
the
suspension and other parts. Many people run Enkei RP01 18x9
wheels
with a 42 mm offset and 265/35-18 tires, with no problems.
I am
not sure of the effect on the suspension parts. I don't imagine
the
suspension will be bothered too much by a wheel that is 1/4"
farther out,
especially if the the wheel and tire package is lighter
than stock. The
slightly wider track might help handling somewhat.
But I have no experience
in that aspect of our cars.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To:
"Team3S Technical Forum" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 15, 2001 4:56 AM
Subject: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on
geometry?
Wheel offsets, I gather that the 17" and 18" rims come standard
with
a 42mm offset from the factory. Q: What effect will changing
this
offset have, i.e. going + or -, on the suspension and
steering
geometry and handling?
Q: Any good Web URL's on the calcs
needed?
I have been offered +41, +40, and +44 offsets on a new set of
rims.
Q: What other offsets will work, or are being used and what
effect
have they had on handling?
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL
Solutions Ltd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 10:13:12
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo / HP goal
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Gerl
(RTEC) <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
> 357 are like 15g. You better go with other stuff first and then with
the
> turbos. Difference of them is size. 399 are mega-overkill, 368 are
too large
> as well (i know !)
Would you care to elaborate on that
last line for those of us that are upgrading
our
turbos.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:38:15
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo / HP goal
> > turbos. Difference of them is size.
399 are mega-overkill, 368 are too
large
> > as well (i know
!)
>
> Would you care to elaborate on that last line for those of us
that are
upgrading
> our turbos.
The last line means that I do
have the 368s on my car (the ones before the
368sx).
The other line is
just sayign what we have discussed months ago. Basically
my statements are
comming from the compressor maps. The 368 turbos are very
close to the 20g
wheels. Running one 20g with a 3 cyl 1500cc engine sounds
pretty strange.
Unfortunately, the map shows that there is a big danger of
running them into
the surge area with this monster turbos, and this is not
good for sure ! The
368 are made for running all the time at more than 8000
rpm with boost up to
20 psi (regarding our engine). In fact they are made
for single turbo
applications on other cars as they flow about 650cfm at PR
of 2.
My
car is running soon and I never will ru nthe turbos in this
area.
Unfortunately, we all are told that the stuff will work brilliant and
until
now they haven't failed (what they usually will if they are driven in
the
surge area). If I would have to choose turbos again, I'd go for the
357
Magnums. Flows enough, no mroe mods to be done and working range is in
the
correct area.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 23:16:14
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Kit (!)
> Actually, I was referring to the width
of the rotors in the AP kit which
are
> indeed 35.5 mm.
Ahhh,
makes mucho more sense :)
> The point that I was intending to
make is that these 35.5
> mm wide rotors should provide better cooling,
more resistance to warping,
> and be less likely to fade than the more
common 32 mm wide rotors.
Definitely !
> The AP rotors also
come in a variety of diameters. I'm not sure which
> diameter rotor
the AP VR4/TT kit uses but it might be (coincidentally) 355
>
mm.
Any bolted rotor is available in any diameter fro mthe manufacturer
(same to
the Bremsas here)
> I don't doubt that it is possible to
break suspension components with
rotors
> greater than 322 mm in
diameter when using high grip track tires.
Doubt or know ? I know how it
feels when a slow lorry is changing the lane
at 55 mph and I'm aproaching at
about 150 mph from behind. Stock brakes
overheated, extreme warping, fading
... but what happend if the suspension
would brake in this situation ? I
don't think about such a situation as it
is too horrbile for me (gulp
!)
> think it's likely that one will obtain better braking (same
stopping
force,
> less warping and fading, longer pad life) using
the larger AP kit and
> operating it at something less than it's maximum
capacity, perhaps at
> 85%-90%,
When you are in an emergency
situation, you SLAM the brakes and push onto
the pedal will all the force you
have. You just have not the time to feel
the brakes. The ABS kicks in and
your car becomes wiggeling around, the rear
tries to brake out the front
fades to the left and right and you are
sweating the blood out of your venes.
How many of us already went into this
situation and were happy to get out of
the damaged car without much
scratches ? I do NOT want to feel this again
!
> VERSUS using a Big Red kit with a 322 mm rotor and
continually
> using it at 100% of it's capacity.
I agree if we are
speaking for Rich on the road course as he's probably
having a cage as well
as wearing a helmet. I wore my business suit when the
shit happend and with
some more stopping power I'd have had the chance to
destroy the moving energy
before I hit the truck ! With the 322 I definitely
would have had a chance to
break down to the same speed earlier. But what
would have happen with a kit
that "probably" kills the suspension ?
> I wish I had the money to
find out :).
Yes, and 7 lives , miau :)
No to be honest, I'd like
to get such a kit and go to our traing course with
some instructors. Doing
100s of brakes into turns, on hanging or rising
curves, uneven road, and,
and, and. Aftewards, the suspension parts should
be sent to the government
labor to check (this is the normal process). IMHO,
it would be enough to set
camber and toe and measure it again after such a
day. If there have been any
noticeable change I'd have to say sorry, no way,
I'm in
danger.
Regarding the Math, yes, we don't get it. I wish the companies
are that much
coorparative like we wish. But most feel the danger of giving
away their
investments to someone who finnaly offers another kit against
theirs. I
fully understand ! The Bremsa kit comes with the Brembo calipers
with their
own rotors/hats and brackets and they offer it for many cars as an
upgrade.
Just a sidenote for the Audi-World : The RS4 is already equipped
with
Porsche brakes but they used other supension components and ABS parts to
fit
everything totgether.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 23:26:08
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Kit
> Did anyone ever find out more about the
full-contact brakes at
>
http://www.newtech-ibs.com/aswf/flashanglais.htm?
Right
for trucks, too heavy regarding the unsprung mass on cars like ours
:( F1
tested this principle many, many years ago and threw it
way.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 23:23:46
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Kit (!)
> But if one modifies the suspension
(struts, shocks, springs, etc.) then
> wouldn't that allow you to modify
your brakes over there in Europe?
Yes, I think the package is what
counts. Like more air also needs more fuel
!
> Are they just
getting the stock numbers from Mitsu (and can we see what
they
> are?)
or can GC, Tein, etc. supply numbers to us so we can figure out what
>
they can handle?
Hmm, yes as the manufacturers have to give their
permission to allow to put
the part onto the cars when it belongs to the
safety parts on a car (like
another air-bag steerignwheel, springs,
wheels...) Only the US and some
other countries do not have such limitiations
(we have a boosk about these
laws here !). If oyu put another wheel onto your
car you must have a paper
that says it is "homologated" to this car and
registered with it. The you
are getting a line in the cars paper that it is
alowed to drive aorund with
these tires. The same to the springs (max
lowering allowed is 2") exhaust
(max 10% louder) and other stuff (20% power
power is allowed, but we do have
an EBC, hehe).
Sinces these laws are
active, we have much less accidents on high speed.
But, as I stated in my
other messge, I doubt we are getting any information
any manufaturer invested
in :(( But, to be honest, would we know what to do
with them
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 16:00:32
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: GT
Pro
Anyone know the link to the GT Pro website? I can't seem to pull it
up
on searching. I can only pull up tuners who sell some of their
products.
Any help would be appreciated.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 16:04:27
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo / HP goal
Sorry for all the can you clarify... statements, but when
you say no
more mods to be done. I am assuming you already have upgraded
fuel
system, etc.. Some may think the turbos by themselves require
no
additional mods to optimally use.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
"Roger Gerl (RTEC)" wrote:
>
> > > turbos.
Difference of them is size. 399 are mega-overkill, 368 are too
>
large
> > > as well (i know !)
> >
> > Would you
care to elaborate on that last line for those of us that are
>
upgrading
> > our turbos.
>
> The last line means that I
do have the 368s on my car (the ones before the
> 368sx).
>
>
The other line is just sayign what we have discussed months ago.
Basically
> my statements are comming from the compressor maps. The 368
turbos are very
> close to the 20g wheels. Running one 20g with a 3 cyl
1500cc engine sounds
> pretty strange. Unfortunately, the map shows that
there is a big danger of
> running them into the surge area with this
monster turbos, and this is not
> good for sure ! The 368 are made for
running all the time at more than 8000
> rpm with boost up to 20 psi
(regarding our engine). In fact they are made
> for single turbo
applications on other cars as they flow about 650cfm at PR
> of 2.
>
> My car is running soon and I never will ru nthe turbos in this
area.
> Unfortunately, we all are told that the stuff will work brilliant
and until
> now they haven't failed (what they usually will if they are
driven in the
> surge area). If I would have to choose turbos again, I'd
go for the 357
> Magnums. Flows enough, no mroe mods to be done and
working range is in the
> correct area.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 01:12:04
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo / HP goal
> Sorry for all the can you clarify...
statements, but when you say no
> more mods to be done. I am assuming you
already have upgraded fuel
> system, etc.. Some may think the turbos by
themselves require no
> additional mods to optimally use.
Yes, this
is absolutely correct. Bigger injectors are a must if one will run
more than
15 psi of pressure in the plenum. And bigger inj. means a fuel
controller as
well as bigger pump.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 16:11:54
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big Red Kit (!)
The AP Racing kit comes with either 332/343/ or indeed
355 mm discs. Pad
SA is 76.3 cm2x2calipers
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
"Roger Gerl (RTEC)" wrote:
>
> > Actually, I was
referring to the width of the rotors in the AP kit which
> are
>
> indeed 35.5 mm.
>
> Ahhh, makes mucho more sense :)
>
> > The point that I was intending to make is that these
35.5
> > mm wide rotors should provide better cooling, more resistance
to warping,
> > and be less likely to fade than the more common 32 mm
wide rotors.
>
> Definitely !
>
> > The AP rotors
also come in a variety of diameters. I'm not sure which
> >
diameter rotor the AP VR4/TT kit uses but it might be (coincidentally)
355
> > mm.
>
> Any bolted rotor is available in any
diameter fro mthe manufacturer (same to
> the Bremsas here)
>
> > I don't doubt that it is possible to break suspension components
with
> rotors
> > greater than 322 mm in diameter when using high
grip track tires.
>
> Doubt or know ? I know how it feels when a
slow lorry is changing the lane
> at 55 mph and I'm aproaching at about
150 mph from behind. Stock brakes
> overheated, extreme warping, fading
... but what happend if the suspension
> would brake in this situation ? I
don't think about such a situation as it
> is too horrbile for me (gulp
!)
>
> > think it's likely that one will obtain better braking
(same stopping
> force,
> > less warping and fading, longer pad
life) using the larger AP kit and
> > operating it at something
less than it's maximum capacity, perhaps at
> > 85%-90%,
>
> When you are in an emergency situation, you SLAM the brakes and push
onto
> the pedal will all the force you have. You just have not the time
to feel
> the brakes. The ABS kicks in and your car becomes wiggeling
around, the rear
> tries to brake out the front fades to the left and
right and you are
> sweating the blood out of your venes. How many of us
already went into this
> situation and were happy to get out of the
damaged car without much
> scratches ? I do NOT want to feel this again
!
>
> > VERSUS using a Big Red kit with a 322 mm rotor and
continually
> > using it at 100% of it's capacity.
>
> I
agree if we are speaking for Rich on the road course as he's probably
>
having a cage as well as wearing a helmet. I wore my business suit when
the
> shit happend and with some more stopping power I'd have had the
chance to
> destroy the moving energy before I hit the truck ! With the
322 I definitely
> would have had a chance to break down to the same speed
earlier. But what
> would have happen with a kit that "probably" kills the
suspension ?
>
> > I wish I had the money to find out
:).
>
> Yes, and 7 lives , miau :)
>
> No to be
honest, I'd like to get such a kit and go to our traing course with
> some
instructors. Doing 100s of brakes into turns, on hanging or rising
>
curves, uneven road, and, and, and. Aftewards, the suspension parts
should
> be sent to the government labor to check (this is the normal
process). IMHO,
> it would be enough to set camber and toe and measure it
again after such a
> day. If there have been any noticeable change I'd
have to say sorry, no way,
> I'm in danger.
>
> Regarding the
Math, yes, we don't get it. I wish the companies are that much
>
coorparative like we wish. But most feel the danger of giving away their
>
investments to someone who finnaly offers another kit against theirs. I
>
fully understand ! The Bremsa kit comes with the Brembo calipers with
their
> own rotors/hats and brackets and they offer it for many cars as an
upgrade.
>
> Just a sidenote for the Audi-World : The RS4 is
already equipped with
> Porsche brakes but they used other supension
components and ABS parts to fit
> everything totgether.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 21:59:24
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks
Hi Rich,
The 3" dryer duct will last almost forever
or until
you run them in the gravel pit during an offtrack
excursion like
I do once in a while.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> To all those who contributed to my question on how
> to
make an S bend --
> thanks. As you may recall, I asked for help on
>
making a very tight S-bend
> for my brake ducts.
>
> I solved
it with what several of you suggested --
> clothes dryer duct.
>
Normal-size dryer duct won't work, but I found 3-in
> duct that
fit
> perfectly. Guess I better learn not to dismiss
> people's
suggestions so
> quickly, because the duct worked better than
>
anything else. I didn't know
> it came in that diameter.
>
>
So now I have these two huge 4 in. round scoops
> (made from plastic
sewer
> pipe) in my grill where the driving lights used to
> be,
each connected to a
> 4-to-3 in. plastic vacuum cleaner coupling
connected
> to 3-in dryer duct
> that makes the S-bend straight down
and under the
> car to a 3 in. plastic
> plumbing joint and a
radiator hose bracket that
> joins the 3.0 in. duct to
> 2.5 in.
industrial rubber hose which heads back to
> the brakes.
Everything
> except the rubber hose was purchased at Menard's for
>
about $15.00.
>
> I wonder how long the dryer duct will last at
high
> speeds. I had it up to
> 120+ today and it seemed OK, but the
jury is out on
> how long it will take
> repeated buffeting like
that. Guess we'll see. Black
> racer's tape might
> provide the
necessary reinforcement.
>
> Rich/95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD
TT
>
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:29:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Big Red Kit (!)
Hi Steve,
Brake duct cooling is easy and
NOT expensive. Parts
incluce rain spout collector, 2' downspout,
clothes
dryer duct, duct tape, tie straps.
See pics on my
website:
http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619/cooling.htmlOther
list members have similar setups.
Be of good cheer,
John
-
--- steve <
nws3@winisp.net>
wrote:
> Wouldn't it be possible to make stronger suspension
>
components?
> Has anyone made ducting to get cool air to our
>
brakes like many cars have?
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Kit (!)
> ...
> > I don't doubt that it is
possible to break
> suspension components with
> rotors
>
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 01:46:05
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: AVCR / Boost problem update
Hello all.
Hope everyone had a
relaxing weekend.
Those who have been following my Boost problem saga, i
have an update.
I did some more testing on my avcr and this is what i
found.
When i turn the AVCR my boost guage piller pod hits 7 on the
dot,
no spikes just right up to 7, very quickly and stays there all the
way
through
to redline in every gear.. Then i turn on my AVCR and use
setting A at
1.00 bar
and 30% duty ALL across the board, (every
rpm) and i do some runs, i
spike 10 on the
boost guage then it
immediately drops to 7 and stays, until i shift, it
spikes 10 and then drops
again.
Then i set the avcr to setting B, which is set at .95 bar and in
learn
mode which was set at 55% duty all the way across the board... i hit
7
psi and stayed there, nothing else.. but setting A spiked 10, and
then
dropped to seven. I havn't been able to go over 10 my entire
time ive
had this unit. Wondering if anyone has any more suggestions..
I guess
this means that the avcr is installed correctly, wires.. I also have
the
AFC and both the throttle, and RPM's match so it must be setup
correctly
there.. I only have a few differences.. where the voltage on the
AVCR
goes crazy at idle until i rev it up then it eases out.. The
problem
here is that when idle the RPM guage on the avcr goes crazy up and
down
all over the place, until i rev it then it smooths out and displays
the
correct rpm... but when i let off the gas it hits zero and then
starts
jumping up and down very quiclkly again. I havn't been able to fix
this
since ive had the unit.
Any and all suggestions are
welcome! Ive checked for leaks, and all
hoses seem to be fine..
Im
wondreing if my BOV is leaking? I have the HKS super Sequential..
Has a
nice sound when i shift,
and i definitly would know if it was leaking due to
the pressure air
sound . but i don't think it is leaking
because i don't
hear these sounds, and on top of that i get a nice blow
off into the air when
i shift, meaning that the Bov is holding the air
pressure just
fine.
Please help.
Mark
Mods Include:
Apexi
AVCR
Apexi AFC
Apexi Boost Guage
Magnecore Wires
K&N
HKS
Super Seq BOV
ATR Downpipe
ATR Cat Back Exhaust with Straight Pipe ( no
cat )
Greddy Turbo Timer
RSR Springs
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:43:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake shims?
Hi Jim,
You are correct...the shims provide
some thermal
barrier. Use them.
Make pad changing easier by
opening the bleeder when
you push the piston back. BTW you'll also get
a
chance to see the color of the brake fluid. If it's
BLACK, you
boiled the fluid and you need to bleed
until the fluid is clear.
You
can precondition the R4 pads on your BBQ grill for
about an hour. That
will help pad life. Will smell a
bit though. (-:)
Be of
good cheer,
John
- --- Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com> wrote:
>
Merritt and you other serious brakers--
>
> When changing front
pads for racing, do you bother
> with the anti-squeal
> shims and
grease?
>
> On my second gen VR-4 there are two shims
behind
> each pad that are supposed
> to retain grease to stop
squeal. I just changed from
> my R4S pads to a new
> set of R4 that
I need to bed in before this
> weekend's track outing.
>
> I
ran the R4S pads for a day at Thunderhill, and for
> a couple weeks on
the
> street since. The grease on the shims that I removed
> had
been cooked down to
> almost nothing, but it still retained some
>
"greasiness."
>
> I can't imagine those shims doing much good
for
> racing, except perhaps as a
> thermal break between the pad
and the pistons.
>
> What say ye?
>
> Many
thanks!
>
> ‹Jim
> 94 VR-4
>
=====
Please
respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with
Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 03:09:12
EDT
From:
LizVong21@aol.comSubject: Team3S: tranny
forsale on ebay item #580108826
$450 dollar tranny just to let everyone
know no reserve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 12:02:17
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on geometry?
Jeff
wrote>
>ALL factory 3S wheels have a 46 mm offset. All years, all
sizes (16",
>17", 18", even the spare), all models.
The "official"
Mitsubishi listing states that Z15A & Z16A models all have a
42mm offset,
as do the peeps at
http://www.takakaira.com/rimsandtyres/rimsspecs/mitsubishirims.htmlAs
I want to up-size the wheels without affecting the existing
steering
characteristics it is important to have the original dimensions to
calculate
from. So is it 42 or 46 as Std. On 17x8.5 and 18x8.5 rims? (I don't
have std
rims to check). Is it possible that there is a difference
between
UK/Japan/USA?
Your totally confused Irish member.
-
--
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: 15 April 2001 18:07
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on geometry?
ALL factory 3S wheels
have a 46 mm offset. All years, all sizes (16",
17", 18", even the spare),
all models.
Aftermarket wheels can have a smaller offset, which moves the
wheel
out away from the centerline of the car. Popular offsets are in
the
range of 35 mm to 42 mm. Wider wheels should have smaller
offsets.
Going to a 9" wheel from the factory 8.5" wheel (for the turbo
crowd)
will require the wheel offset to be 1/4", or 6.35 mm less in order
to
keep the inside rim of the wheel at the same distance from
the
suspension and other parts. Many people run Enkei RP01 18x9
wheels
with a 42 mm offset and 265/35-18 tires, with no problems.
I am
not sure of the effect on the suspension parts. I don't imagine
the
suspension will be bothered too much by a wheel that is 1/4"
farther out,
especially if the the wheel and tire package is lighter
than stock. The
slightly wider track might help handling somewhat.
But I have no experience
in that aspect of our cars.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To:
"Team3S Technical Forum" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 15, 2001 4:56 AM
Subject: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on
geometry?
Wheel offsets, I gather that the 17" and 18" rims come standard
with
a 42mm offset from the factory. Q: What effect will changing
this
offset have, i.e. going + or -, on the suspension and
steering
geometry and handling?
Q: Any good Web URL's on the calcs
needed?
I have been offered +41, +40, and +44 offsets on a new set of
rims.
Q: What other offsets will work, or are being used and what
effect
have they had on handling?
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL
Solutions Ltd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 06:00:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: GT Pro
Just about any link you want that deals with our cars
is on the HUGE
Links Page at my web site, including GT-PRO (a rather obvious
url I
might add).
http://www.gtpro.com/Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Richard" <
radanc@home.com>
Cc: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 15, 2001 5:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: GT Pro
Anyone know the
link to the GT Pro website? I can't seem to pull it
up
on searching. I can
only pull up tuners who sell some of their
products. Any help would be
appreciated.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 06:21:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect on geometry?
>> The "official"
Mitsubishi listing states that Z15A & Z16A models
all have a 42mm offset,
as do the peeps at
Sorry for the confusion. I should have stated all
***US*** models
have a 46 mm offset.
Look at the US service manuals. I
have copies of the actual pages at
the link below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-wheelspecs.htmALL
US models are listed as having 46-mm offsets according to the
service
manuals. I have no idea what wheels were installed on
Japanese
and
European models. In fact I have not measured the offset. I am
having a tire
taken off my stock 17" 1992 wheel soon and I will
measure the offset to see
if the manuals are reporting this
correctly.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To:
"Team3S Technical Forum" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 16, 2001 5:02 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel Offsets and Effect
on geometry?
Jeff wrote>
>ALL factory 3S wheels have a
46 mm offset. All years, all sizes
(16",
>17", 18", even the spare),
all models.
The "official" Mitsubishi listing states that Z15A & Z16A
models all
have a 42mm offset, as do the peeps at
http://www.takakaira.com/rimsandtyres/rimsspecs/mitsubishirims.htmlAs
I want to up-size the wheels without affecting the existing
steering
characteristics it is important to have the original
dimensions to calculate
from. So is it 42 or 46 as Std. On 17x8.5 and
18x8.5 rims? (I don't have std
rims to check). Is it possible that
there is a difference between
UK/Japan/USA?
Your totally confused Irish member.
- --
George
Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions Ltd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 06:57:19
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake shims?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Christian
<
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
> You
can precondition the R4 pads on your BBQ grill for
> about an hour.
That will help pad life. Will smell a
> bit though.
(-:)
I did that with my last set ---- they smell more than a bit. The
process also produced an uneven surface on the pad. I assume
]they would
have seated in a relatively short period of time but I
used some 80 grit
paper to flatten them.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 14:43:12
From: "Alan Monarchi" <
drgangus@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Seeking aftermarket warranty advice
Folks,
This isn't
actually for a Stealth/3000GT, but just a general question
about 3rd part
warranties. Can you recommend one over the other ?
Are there ones
to avoid? My sister is just looking for basic coverage on
her
Sunfire GT - which is coming out of factory warranty next month. any
suggestions ?
I've heard or Warranty Gold...any thoughts on this one
and/or ANY others ?
I think the one they are offering her at her
dealer thru GMAC is overpriced
($1500, no deductible), 3 years or
30K.
Thanks,
Gangus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 11:11:12
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVCR / Boost problem update
On the solenoid there is the
front most connection which has a hose
going to it,
and also there is the
two side connections. one says NC and one says
COM..
which one should it
be on?
Russell Schwanke wrote:
>
> Did you use the
right fittings on the selonoid. If you have the wrong port
> of the
three vented you could be possibly not bleeding off any pressure and
> if
the actuators activate at 7psi thats all you'll get. If you have
the
> duty cycle cranked and spike to 10, it's probably because the
wastegate
> didn't have time to open exactly at 7psi.
>
> I
have a first gen avc-r that I bought used. It had been used on a
>
different car and the wrong port was vented so I was getting as much
boost
> as the turbo on my talon could produce(much worse than just 7psi
:-).
>
> Let me know if this helps
>
> Russell
Schwanke
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Hindelang
<
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
> To:
Stealth Net <
stealth@starnet.net>; Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
Mi3si <
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent:
Monday, April 16, 2001 12:46 AM
> Subject: Team3S: AVCR / Boost problem
update
>
> >
> > Hello all.
> > Hope everyone
had a relaxing weekend.
> >
> > Those who have been following
my Boost problem saga, i have an update.
> > I did some more testing on
my avcr and this is what i found.
> >
> > When i turn the AVCR
my boost guage piller pod hits 7 on the dot,
> > no spikes just right
up to 7, very quickly and stays there all the way
> > through
>
> to redline in every gear.. Then i turn on my AVCR and use setting A
at
> > 1.00 bar
> > and 30% duty ALL across the board, (every
rpm) and i do some runs, i
> > spike 10 on the
> > boost
guage then it immediately drops to 7 and stays, until i shift, it
> >
spikes 10 and then drops again.
> > Then i set the avcr to setting B,
which is set at .95 bar and in learn
> > mode which was set at 55% duty
all the way across the board... i hit 7
> > psi and stayed there,
nothing else.. but setting A spiked 10, and then
> > dropped to
seven. I havn't been able to go over 10 my entire time ive
>
> had this unit. Wondering if anyone has any more suggestions.. I
guess
> > this means that the avcr is installed correctly, wires.. I
also have the
> > AFC and both the throttle, and RPM's match so it must
be setup correctly
> > there.. I only have a few differences.. where
the voltage on the AVCR
> > goes crazy at idle until i rev it up then
it eases out.. The problem
> > here is that when idle the RPM guage on
the avcr goes crazy up and down
> > all over the place, until i rev it
then it smooths out and displays the
> > correct rpm... but when i let
off the gas it hits zero and then starts
> > jumping up and down very
quiclkly again. I havn't been able to fix this
> > since ive had the
unit.
> >
> >
> > Any and all suggestions are
welcome! Ive checked for leaks, and all
> > hoses seem to be
fine..
> > Im wondreing if my BOV is leaking? I have the HKS
super Sequential..
> > Has a nice sound when i shift,
> > and
i definitly would know if it was leaking due to the pressure air
> >
sound . but i don't think it is leaking
> > because i don't hear these
sounds, and on top of that i get a nice blow
> > off into the air when
i shift, meaning that the Bov is holding the air
> > pressure just
fine.
> >
> >
> > Please help.
> >
>
>
> > Mark
> >
> > Mods Include:
> >
Apexi AVCR
> > Apexi AFC
> > Apexi Boost Guage
> >
Magnecore Wires
> > K&N
> > HKS Super Seq BOV
> >
ATR Downpipe
> > ATR Cat Back Exhaust with Straight Pipe ( no cat
)
> > Greddy Turbo Timer
> > RSR Springs
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#465
*********************