team3s
Tuesday, April 10
2001
Volume 01 : Number
460
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:23:16 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how to test greddy bov
Sorry for dragging this along so much, but
I didn't have time to work on my
car this weekend and I have some more
questions on the Greddy Type-S BOV.
I tried to test the Greddy with my
vacuum tester, and was unable to get it
to open. My little hand help
vacuum pump gauge registered 20 and the valve
still did not open.
Is
this normal ?
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 22:15:18
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AirCon
The cold sign only means that the AC likes to make the
environment cooler
than it "thinks" it is. This is due to the temp sensor
under the roof
(totally wrong place) as well as the sunlight sensor on the
dash. Also it
depends where the blue arrow points to so this is where the
colder air is
comming out. I for myself never changed the AC fluid or did
something else
to it since 1994 and it still works without a problem
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Someone mentioned some
time back about getting their AirCon recharged. Now
> UK weather is such
that it is very seldom we need the air con to blow cold
> but today I
noticed that even when the left indicator showed COLD (very
> bottom bar)
it was still quite warm air being blown from the vents. How
> often does
the aircon need recharged? What's involved? As I said AirCon of
> any type
is not common in the UK (N Ireland).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:55:57
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FYI: Curb Weight Data for '95 3000GT
I was going to
weigh one wheel at a time at a weigh station, and I was told
that these
weights would NOT be valid. Supposedly, the only way to get
valid
corner weights is to weigh all four tires at the same time.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 1:24 PM
>
To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; Team3S List (E-mail); Starnet 3Si Mailing List
>
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: FYI: Curb Weight Data for '95
3000GT
>
> > Cool! How did you do the corner
weights? Level surface, I hope!
>
> I live near a weigh
station where the scales are always on and the readout
> is visible if you
peer in the window (easier at night). Doing the corners
> and
keeping it level was tricky (F/R and total are easy), but I think I
>
got
> it (the numbers add up).
>
> > Without you in the
car is not necessarily helpful: a couple
> > hundred more pounds
on the driver's side might make you
> > consider raising the left
suspension to get neutral.
>
> With a driver or passenger in the
car, the weight distribution is about
> 55%
> on the rear and 45% on
the front. This is consistent with the seating
> position being
slightly aft of the center of mass. I didn't mess with
> corners
with a person in the car, but I'll check that sometime when I have
>
time.
>
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 16:13:30
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Kormex
I just got off the phone with Frank from Kormex(nice
guy)..anyway just
wanted everyone to know that I just installed a rebuilt
5sp and xfer case
for one of the MN3s club members and I'm real happy with
their work. I know
that it is a little early to tell, but the quality
of the rebuild seems
good. The tranny is tight and shifts really
well. I would recommend them
to anyone in the market for a
tranny. FYI..the cost for a rebuilt 5spd and
xfer case was $2000 +
$750 core(shipped).
I also asked about 6spds. He said that they
haven't rebuilt many because
they recently came across a bunch of NEW
ones. I think that he said they
got 40 new 6spds. He is asking
$2K each(exchange).
Of course, everyone knows that he does have the 1-2
synchro inner cone(the
one that causes 1-2 shifting problems) that he sells
for $125.
www.kormextrans.com800-429-5464
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 14:39:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations
Has someone counted the number of
teeth on the two bevel gears inside
the 6-speed transfer case? I am guessing
they are 23 and 24. This
still leads to a 0.1% mismatch between front and
rear ratios:
57/18 ~= (23/24)x(43/13).
This small mismatch must be of no
consequence.
The 5-speed front and rear gears match exactly, however:
52/18 == (22/27)x(39/11).
Hmmmm, maybe a teensy advantage to the 5-speed
in the wear
department?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Monday, April
09, 2001 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations
Gear
ratios.
5-spd front diff 2.889
5-spd transfer
case 0.815
5-spd rear diff 3.545 (0.815 x
3.545 = 2.889)
6-spd front diff 3.166
6-spd
transfer case 0.958
6-spd rear diff 3.307
(0.958 x 3.307 = 3.168; roundoff error)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:08:27
-0400
From: "Eddie" <
stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Atlanta 92 stealth r/t forsale cheap
I have a 92 stealth r/t
(twin turbo all wheel drive). 127,000 miles, green,
motor rebuilt 15K miles
ago, new tires, well cared for. owned "her" for
approx. 3 1/2
years.
Looking to sell fast and at a fair price, moving across country
(3,000
miles) and must part with this car. Located in Atlanta, GA.
If
you or anyone you know is interested please let me know.
Thank
you!
Eddie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:37:50
-0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Strange idle
List,
On the way home from work today I
encountered my first battle with stop and
go traffic in my VR4. I crept
along with the pack one car length at a time
until I was able to get off at
my exit. When I got to the red light I could
hear someone revving their
engine at me in even patterns. I looked around
to determine who.
No one seemed to be making a challenge. I looked down at
my tach and
noticed it was my car that was revving on it's own. It would
hit aboout
1,200RPM then rev to 2,000RPM, then drop back off to 1,200RPM
and
repeat. Once the car would stop moving the idle would run all the
way up to
2,500RPM and hold there until I let the clutch out to move.
It would rev
that high regardless of if the clutch was in or if it was out
and I was in
neutral.
Any ideas on what could have caused this?
My initial thought was the
throttle cable did not have enough slack to allow
the car to adjust idle.
When I got home I let the car cool off a little then
put some more slack in
to the throttle cable. The car cranked and ran
fine for the 2 minutes or so
I let it run. I'm pretty sure this is not
the fix, as the cable had decent
slack in it to begin with. Is it
possible I tricked the ECU in to adjusting
the idle higher due to the
extended time I sat in traffic letting the clutch
pull the car instead of
giving it gas to get moving? I know this is not the
best way or even a
recommended way to handle the short stop and go traffic,
but like I said, I
am still new to this car and the way it acts. I reverted
to driving it
like my Storm, and they are no where near the same. I'll
learn, but for
now I'd like to hear any thoughts on this you guys may have.
Thanks!
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT
'94 3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:48:07
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Making an S bend
How about plastic, bendable downspouts for roof
gutter leaders. I bought
some for that purpose, but my pop saw them in
my garage and took them home
to use on his house.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
echeek@cox-internet.com <
echeek@cox-internet.com>;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, April 07, 2001 6:05 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Making an S
bend
>At 12:57 AM 4/7/01 -0500, Eric Cheek wrote:
>>ROFL,
and I would think this to be such a simple task (J/K) :)... I
think
>>the clothes dryer exhaust ducting should work, you can get it
in plastic
or
>>some aluminized plastic stuff.
>
>Might
be too big.
>
> The other thing that I can think of would
be
>>a replacement hose for the vacuum cleaners you pay 50 cents to
clean out
the
>>car.
>
>Home vacuum cleaner hose is way
too small and the big hose on my big 'ol
>shop vac won't make the
bend.
>
>Also what about a radiator hose? I've seen some of those
that bend in a
>>110-120 degree bend
>
>I never thought of
radiator hose. Hmmm.
>
>... I think it was in a Jeep Cherokee ....
OH and what
>>about the old heat riser ducting that used to go on the
old Chevy motors
..
>>the ones with the big round air cleaner holder
and the "snoot" that was on
>>the driver side .. as I recall that was
about 2.5 inches and really
>>flexible.
>
>You mean that
flexible silver stuff? I have a length of that type of hose
>that I've
tried to use before. It just never seems to want to cooperate.
>Believe me
when I say I've tried just about everything in the way of hoses,
>ducts,
scoops, intakes, you name it.
>
>I REALLY like the radiator hose
idea. Thanks. If some parts store would
>just let me snoop
around...
>
>Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 01:13:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: how to test greddy bov
> I tried to test the Greddy with
my vacuum tester, and was unable to get it
> to open.
You applied
pressure or vacuum ?
> My little hand help vacuum pump gauge
registered 20 and the valve
> still did not open.
>
> Is this
normal ?
If tested correctly it should open. You may disassemble the BOV
to check
everything (very easy, just watch the
spring)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:06:48
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anyone installed a carbon fiber dash
Easy. I did it while I
waited for a client in the parking lot at
work--about 15-20minutes
It
looks pretty good, but some kits are better then others.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
Team 3S List Submissions <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, April 09, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: Team3S: anyone installed a carbon
fiber dash
>I am thinking about getting one of those carbon fiber
dash kits for my 1997
>VR-4 and was wondering if anyone has installed one
?
>
>Are they easy to install ?
>Are they good looking or do
they look cheap ?
>How good is the glue on them ?
>
>I am
thinking about a yellow/black kit on ebay and was wondering if anyone
>has
dealt with this vendor before ?
>
>A friend told me about dashboards
plus, and I saw a kit on their web site,
>but it is really
expensive.
>
>Any suggestions, comments
?
>
>Thanks
>Anthony
Melillo
>anthonymelillo@home.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:12:12
-0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boosting problems
I have been having a boost problem lately and
it has me stumped so I'm
hoping someone can
help. I have 357 turbos,
720cc inj., ARC2 and the HKS fuel pump but for
some reason when I get on
it
my boost gauge increases until I hit 1 bar but then very rapidly drops to
.7
bar and feels almost like
fuel cut. I have checked all visible IC
connections but all seem tight.
This problem came about
immediately after
I changed out my old intake plenum('96) for a new
polished/gasket matched
plenum
out of a ('99). The only real difference between the two plenums
was the
gasket matching and 1 extra
hose barb near the throttle body which
I plugged (the old one had 1 barb and
the new had 2). I used
a new
plenum gasket and torqued everything to specs.
Any ideas what
could be causing this stuttering at only 1 bar? Plugs are
NGK and
gapped at .034
Also, if I set my Apexi boost controller to .8 bar
it seems to be OK and
does not overshoot.
Troy '96 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:07:32
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
AirCon
Okay;-) So can those in the know please post what type (R-12
or R-134A) is
required for which years of our cars. It will
save a lot of monkey motion
for those whom it does or may
effect.
91
92
93
94
95
96
Darc
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:12:24
EDT
From:
Sedaso@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch
how do you bleed the clutch on an N/A
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:26:14
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fidanza Flywheels Group Buy (expires end of April)
Looks like we have hit
10 committed people which gets us a smokin $390
per flywheel. Anyone else
please contact Steve since 25 committed people
gets it down significantly
lower. How often do you get an option to buy
at wholesale cost? I don't think
I have ever seen them sell for less
then about $475.
Rich
92
Stealth TT
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> Guys and Gals
> There
is a group buy just started up from 3SXperts.com that offers the
> Fidanza
aluminum flywheel for our cars.
>
> If at least 10 of our members
total will buy from them on a group buy for
> both TT's and NA's they will
offer them for $375 shipped to the door for
> NA's and $390 for TT's (in
the continental USA). The prices will even go
> lower when there are 25
buyers, $350 for the NA's and $365 for the TTs !
> Normal prices can be
found around $429 for the NA and $489 for the TT, so
> it's a great deal
IMHO.
>
> Weight of it is only 11lbs (22 lbs stock flywheel for TT)
and 8 lbs (15 lbs
> stock NA).
>
> This offer would expire at
the end of April.
>
> If you are interested email Steve at
Steve@3SXperts.com>
>
------
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 21:44:29
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: FYI: Curb Weight Data for '95 3000GT
Try Longacre Racing
Products, Inc. for info on the scales used to measure
cars.
www.longacreracing.com-
-Paul
92R/T
> I was going to weigh one wheel at a time at a weigh
station, and I was told
> that these weights would NOT be
valid. Supposedly, the only way to get
> valid corner weights
is to weigh all four tires at the same time.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:53:10
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 60/120k service revisted - tool + parts
Well, I finally got
around to tearing down the stealth. For the
crankshaft pulley I set out to
craft one of the previously tried and
tested methods for loosening/tightening
it. In the process though
I came across one method that is atleast as easy
and cheap,
since a) my crescent wrench pliers were slightly too small
to
drill holes at the mouth of and b) sawing at the end of the flat
iron
seemed like too much work for this sap.
Instead, I decided to
utilize a piece of 2" wide (narrower might have
been easier) 1/8" thick flat
steel I had sitting around, cutting it off to
around 14-18" long. I drilled
the 3/8" holes at around 2-9/16" (i think)
apart as close to one end as I
safely could. I actually used a 29/64 drill
bit on the holes, and this ended
up giving a slight bit more room to play
on the crankshaft pulley insertion
holes. I used two 3/8" x 2-1/2" long hex
bolts to run through the metal,
once the piece was in place between
the motor and frame, otherwise it's too
difficult to maneuver,
and impossible if the socket wrench is not already in
place
beneath it. I only used the 1/2" socket wrench portion inserted
into
the bolt of the crankshaft pulley, as opposed to a hex socket,
since that
wouldn't work in this instance anyway. If this is used, and the
bolts are
the right length, it's a piece of cake. Though some kind of breaker
bar (and
for me my leg) is needed. The "tool" actually rested against the
lower
control arm whatdoyacallit. And here is a rough
sketch:
__________________________________
|
flat
steel
O O
|
__________________________________|
| |
wrench -->|
|
Now that I've gotten
down to the nitty gritty however, I noticed the
parts I received from
carparts.com were incorrect: water pump,
timing cover seal, timing tensioner,
and timing belt. This is frustrating
and I hope I can get a refund as its
been longer than 30 days that I
actually ordered them. I suppose I should not
have gone through them
for these particular parts(?). In the dallas area, the
only timg parts available
through the dealerships are the idler pulley and
the belt, no gaskets or
tensioner (which is funny, because for such a basic
and essential process -
60,120k service - one woudl think they would stock
atleast the gaskets in house).
Is there a recommended place to get all of
the essential parts, where I'm not paying
an arm and a leg? Carparts.com has
several brands of timing belts listed for
atleast a third of typical local
carrier's. Are these not recommended? The one
I ordered/received, was a Gates
T139. But it's only about 60-75% the width
of my original belt, and
essentially looks too narrow for the gears.
muchas gracias,
john 93
stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:22:59
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: BG
synchroshift
Anybody know who sells BG synchroshift trans fluid
????????????
Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:29:14
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BG
synchroshift
Jim;
Try GM Synchromesh. Black container. A heck of a
lot cheaper, readily
available, and IMHO just as
good.
Darc
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry"
<
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 09, 2001 8:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: BG
synchroshift
> Anybody know who sells BG synchroshift trans fluid
????????????
>
> Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 02:07:11
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust Dilema
3S Veterans,
I ahve
just installed an Apexi AVCR, and Greddy S-Type BOV.. Already
have
K&N FIPK.. My dilema is my next choice of an exhaust.. I am
planning
on Cat_back system with a DP and high flow Cat.. I am partial
to Borla, but
I am more concerned with performance.. Which Exhaust
system has the largest
diameter piping and the most popular w/ you regular 3S
contributors.. I am
being told the Gredy is best for performance but Im
not partial to the trash
can exhaust tip.. Any reccomendations would be
greatly
appreciated..
Regards,
Scott
(
94
VR4)
K&N
FIPK
Greddy
Type S
BOV
Apexi
AVC-R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 23:54:05
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust Dilema
The HKS Super Drager has 3.5 inch piping, but I
don't think you'll like the
5" tip since you aren't fond of the Greddy. The
Greddy has 3" piping and
exits at a 5" tip, but the tip on the greddy is
smaller that the HKS because
it's tapered whereas the HKS is pretty much 5"
all the way to the muffler.
The HKS is better than the Greddy in terms of
both performance and build
quality (and looks IMO). I've had both so I
guess I'm qualified to compare
the two.... haha. Both are single
exhausts too. I actually like the
Bozzspeed exhaust a lot, but it's $1500 and
removes the catalytic converter.
It's just a shade louder than the HKS, and
the HKS is quite a bit louder
than the Greddy. The Bozzspeed looks like the
stock exhaust because it's got
dual tips on each side of the bumper, but the
tips are a little larger than
the stock tips. The Bozzspeed is also a true
dual exhaust where there are
two exhaust pipes that each run from the
pre-cats to one of the sides of the
rear bumper. I doubt there is a pre-made
exhaust that is better flowing than
that one. My friend has the bozzspeed
exhaust on his VR-4.
Chris
92 R/T TT
2001
S2000
> 3S
Veterans,
>
> I ahve just installed an Apexi AVCR,
and Greddy S-Type BOV.. Already
> have K&N FIPK.. My
dilema is my next choice of an exhaust.. I am
planning
> on
Cat_back system with a DP and high flow Cat.. I am partial to
Borla,
but
> I am more concerned with performance.. Which Exhaust
system has the
largest
> diameter piping and the most popular w/ you
regular 3S contributors.. I
am
> being told the Gredy is best for
performance but Im not partial to the
trash
> can exhaust tip.. Any
reccomendations would be greatly appreciated..
>
>
>
>
Regards,
>
> Scott
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 06:09:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch
It should be very similar to the turbo models. Just
identify the
corresponding parts for the Mitsu trany. See my detailed
instructions
at the link below for turbo models.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-clutchbleeding.htmThere
are many more helpful links on the Garage Page at my web site.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sedaso@aol.com To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Sent:
Monday, April 09, 2001 6:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
how do you
bleed the clutch on an N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 08:57:35
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust Dilema
Which Exhaust system has the
largest
>diameter piping and the most popular w/ you regular 3S
contributors..
I just put on a custom exhaust for about $200. It
includes a 3-in.
mandrell-bent pipe to a Xelerator straight-through muffler.
Seems to work
just fine.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:21:40
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: More
exhaust questions
I have some of my own exhaust questions I was hoping
that I could get
answered. I'm looking to build a single pipe custom
exhaust on my TT and
I'm lost trying to choose a muffler and tip combo.
Several people have
recommended Flowmasters, but I'm not sure which one would
give a good sound
but won't have a bad drone effect at constant speed.
I'm trying to go with
the sleeper look. That brings my to my problem
with exhaust tips.
Everything I see is either some 5 inch Honda rice cannon
or a tin POS that
belongs on an 87 Mustang. I'd like something that
resembles stock, but I
have no idea where to find them. The best
I've come up with so far is a
Konig Mozart model (muffler + twin tips) but I
can't find a retailer. Sorry
to ramble on. Thanks for
listening.
Jeff V.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 09:36:07
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More exhaust questions
At 10:21 AM 4/10/01 -0400, Jeff
VanOrsdal wrote:
>I have some of my own exhaust questions I was hoping
that I could get
>answered. I'm looking to build a single pipe
custom exhaust on my TT and
>I'm lost trying to choose a muffler and tip
combo. Several people have
>recommended Flowmasters, but I'm not
sure which one would give a good sound
>but won't have a bad drone effect
at constant speed. I'm trying to go with
>the sleeper look.
Before I bought an Xelerator, the dealer showed me a comparison
of
backpressure ratings, where the Xelerator outperformed just
about
everything (including Flowmasters by a long shot), generating nearly
zero
backpressure. It's not very loud -- more of a mellow rumbling sound.
I
haven't noticed a drone, but then I haven't taken any highway trips with
it
yet. For a chrome tip, I just have a single 3-in. angle tip, kinda
like a
pickup truck.
- --------/
_____ /
We built the
custom exhaust from two three-in 60-deg elbows. We cut into
the stock
cat-back pipe just before the rear diff, and welded the whole
system
together. I'll have pix one of these days.
Rich/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:14:10
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: hard shifting when cold after dealer manual trans oil change
A
few months ago, I had the manual transmission gear oil changed at
the
dealer. I bought the car used, and decided to have it done as a
precaution.
But now when the weather is cold, it is very hard to
shift. After it warms
up it is a lot better.
Any ideas ?
Did they put the wrong oil in there ?
I am thinking about changing the
manual trans and rear axle lube, just in
case. Any suggestions
?
Thanks all
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:38:56
-0500
From: Danny Melton <
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hard shifting when cold after dealer manual trans oil
change
>But now when the weather is cold, it is very hard to
shift. After it warms
>up it is a lot better.
>Any
ideas ? Did they put the wrong oil in there ?
I was under the impression
that it was normal for the car to be difficult to shift when it was cold. I
believe the manual even states this as normal.
Was the car easy to shift
when you originally bought it?
Just my thoughts, I am by no means an
expert...
Later,
Danny Melton
'91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:24:15
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: what gear lube for trans and rear axle
I was looking at different
gear oil's to use in my manual transmission, and
rear axle, but the service
manual lists different viscosities, and I am not
sure what one to
use.
I have a 1997 3000GT VR-4, and any suggestions will be greatly
appreciated.
Thank you
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 09:41:57
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: what
gear lube for trans and rear axle
As I noted in an earlier post, GM
Synchromesh is a good option to the more
expensive Synchroshift
that many members use in their trannies. Both give
smooth
shifting. In the rear axel I would advise sticking with tthe
OME
product with the Mitsu friction additive that is added to it. The X
case is
best filled with Redline Shockproof Heavy.
Darc
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 10, 2001 9:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: what gear lube for trans and
rear axle
> I was looking at different gear oil's to use in my
manual transmission,
and
> rear axle, but the service manual lists
different viscosities, and I am
not
> sure what one to
use.
>
> I have a 1997 3000GT VR-4, and any suggestions will be
greatly
appreciated.
>
> Thank you
>
> Anthony
Melillo
>
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:18:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what gear lube for trans and rear axle
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 10, 2001 10:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: what gear lube for trans
and rear axle
I was looking at different gear oil's to use in my
manual
transmission, and rear axle, but the service manual lists
different
viscosities, and I am not sure what one to use.
I have a
1997 3000GT VR-4, and any suggestions will be
greatly
appreciated.
Thank you
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:26:20
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: hard shifting when cold after dealer manual trans oil
change
If this isn't in the FAQ, it sure should be!
Everybody has
an opinion on this, but I can provide you with a 3-car vote -
replace
whatever's in the transaxle, transfer case, and rear axle with
Redline
products. I think I'm using MT-90 in the transaxle and transfer
case
(takes 3 L) and something else in the rear axle (1 L), like MTL, or
something
(maybe it was Redline 75W90?). The hard shifting in the
cold
(especially into reverse) goes away immediately on changing the
transaxle
fluid.
I'm sure someone will correct me if I named the wrong
stuff for the rear
axle.
Good luck!
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: anthonymelillo
[SMTP:anthonymelillo@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 10:14
AM
> To: Team 3S List Submissions
> Subject: Team3S: hard shifting
when cold after dealer manual trans
> oil change
>
> A few
months ago, I had the manual transmission gear oil changed at the
>
dealer. I bought the car used, and decided to have it done as a
>
precaution.
>
> But now when the weather is cold, it is very hard
to shift. After it
> warms
> up it is a lot better.
>
> Any ideas ? Did they put the wrong oil in there ?
>
> I am thinking about changing the manual trans and rear axle lube, just
in
> case. Any suggestions ?
>
> Thanks all
>
Anthony Melillo
>
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:55:21
+0100
From: "Simon Jones" <
Team3S@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject:
Team3S: Big Red Kit
Hi,
Is the Big Red kit still available from
Brad? I tried e-mailing him last
week, but haven't had any
response.
Also, is the part number for Porterfield cryo'd front discs for
the kit
JBR785 regardless of the year of the car. What pads do people
use with this
kit?
Many thanks,
Simon Jones
'94 GTO
www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uk***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:59:09
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel Deal
Anyone buying new wheels check out
http://www.importhookup.com/wheels/price.htm-
--
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:13:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Kit
> Is the Big Red kit still available from
Brad? I tried e-mailing him last
> week, but haven't had any
response.
- ---
They should be, let us know what happens
there.
> Also, is the part number for Porterfield cryo'd
front discs for the kit
> JBR785 regardless of the year of the car.
What pads do people use with this
> kit?
- ---
Yes, you should be
using the 785 rotor for the BR kit.
The SL uses a 583, and the 1st Gen
uses a 582.
Brad will supply you pads, and I can replace them with
porterfield pads
for 126 or 135 depending if you want a streetable pad, or a
race pad.
Merrit got his a few weeks ago I think.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
I own a lotta cars. But in the best interests
of not having to continualy
edit this file to meet the needs of eight
specific lists, and no to awaken the
idiots within others who think -thier-
cars are the best and Im a fool for
having anything -but- thier kind of
car..I have not listed them. If Im on
the list you are reading..I have
one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 14:07:56
-0400
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Erratic O2 readings
I'm glad to hear that there's nothing wrong
with the O2 sensors. It there
something else that would cause the engine to
rev up and down while idling?
That's probably the question that I should have
asked in the first place.
Mark
Mark Creekmore wrote:
>
Jeff,
>
> I think that the palmlogger is accurate. The engine is
definitely revving
> up and down slightly. You can see the tach
move.
>
> You can get the csv file at:
>
http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.zip>
>
It contains - RPM, Knock, Timing, O2, Inj P/W, TPS, Coolant and O2
Trim.
>
> Mark
>
> Jeff Lucius wrote:
>
>
> The O2 readings look normal for idle. What you are seeing is the
ECU
> > richening a little then leaning a little in an attempt to get a
~14.7
> > A/F, and the O2 sensor is just responding to that. When the
engine
> > revs increase (not under load) the O2 will sweep faster.
Under load,
> > the O2 voltage should stop sweeping and hang out at the
0.9 volt end.
> >
> > The RPM should be close to rock steady
at idle. I have only seen my
> > RPM and timing vary like that when my
timing (CAS) was set wrong. I
> > don't think this is the problem with
your car. Looks like the
> > pocketlogger still has some bugs to work
out.
> >
> > I would be very interested in seeing the XLS or
CSV file if you would
> > like to attach it to an email to me at
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>
> > Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
> > To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 10:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S:
Erratic O2 readings
> >
> > Sorry, the correct url is"
>
>
> >
http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.gif>
>
> > Mark
> >
> > Mark Creekmore wrote:
>
>
> > > I just recently connected a pocketlogger to my '92
Stealth TT. I
> > noticed
> > > that the O2 readings are
all over the place. Constantly going back
> > and
> > >
forth from around .1 to .9. Also the RPMs at idle seem to bounce
> >
between
> > > 650 to 850.
> > >
> > > Is
this normal? Do I have bad O2 sensors?
> > >
> > > You
can see a chart of O2, RPM and timing at:
> > >
http://home.att.net/~stealth/palmlog.gif>
> >
> > > Sorry about the presentation, this is my first
attempt at charting
> > a log
> > > file with MS
Excel.
> > >
> > > Mark Creekmore
> > > '92
Stealth R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 14:25:17
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Transformer under Driver's Seat?
I took my seats out today to
recondition them and I saw some black and green
wires going to something
mounted to the floor of the car. What is this?
what's it
do? Does this have anything to do with the wires that check if the
seat belts are fastened?
- -Paul
92/RT/NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:30:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings
Some possibilities:
- Extreme
timing advance - check with timing light, adjust with CAS
('91 and '92 only).
Neither the TMO nor palmlogger report absolute
timing.
- ISC/IAC
stepper motor - check with ohm-meter at connector or check
stepper motor coil
voltage at ECU plug. Does palmlogger report ISC
step count?
- ???
bad idle air by-pass valve ???
- ??? bad ECU capacitors ???
-
??? vacuum leak ???
- ??? bad injector ??? Can palmlogger turn
injectors off
individually? Does palmlogger report fuel trim
values?
The service manual lists about 2 dozen items to check that
are
related to idle.
Why don't you record some logs with about
everything "turned on" on
the palmlogger. Record one at idle for about 15
seconds. Record
another with decent accel through the gears.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 10, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2
readings
I'm glad to hear that there's nothing wrong with the O2
sensors. It
there something else that would cause the engine to rev up and
down
while idling? That's probably the question that I should have
asked
in the first place.
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 14:41:00
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Transformer under Driver's Seat?
There should have been two connections
under the drivers seat and one under
the passenger seat. The thin,
2-wire connectors are your seatbelt sensors.
The extra connection under the
drivers seat (and the little device bolted to
the floor) is the G-sensor for
the ECS system. It measures the vertical
acceleration of the chassis to
adjust the ECS damping.
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSent:
Tuesday, April 10, 2001 2:25 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Transformer under Driver's Seat?
I took my seats out today to
recondition them and I saw some black and green
wires going to something
mounted to the floor of the car. What is this?
what's it do? Does
this have anything to do with the wires that check if
the
seat belts are
fastened?
- -Paul
92/RT/NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:46:13
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FYI: Curb Weight Data for '95 3000GT
> I was going to
weigh one wheel at a time at a weigh station,
> and I was told that these
weights would NOT be valid.
> Supposedly, the only way to get valid
corner weights is to
> weigh all four tires at the same
time.
Assuming that the ground is completely level and the amount
of downward
travel exhibited by the plate in response to the weight of the
car is
negligible, I don't see why they wouldn't be valid. BTW, the
scales I used
are only accurate to +/- 10lbs, so if you want extremely
accurate
measurements, you'd have to get a more precise scale. Since
all the corner
weights add up to the Front, Left, Right, and Rear subtotals,
as well as the
total weight of the car, and the front/rear and total weights
agree with mfg
data, I'm pretty confident in my measurements.
Maybe
I'll go back and try 3 wheels on one plate and 1 on another plate,
just to be
sure.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 77,000 mi
Magnacor KV85, M1
10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
Tein HA Coilovers,
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around
corners" Corolla 74,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 15:05:15
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big Red Kit
I got mine a few more weeks ago and can get part
numbers for you. I have
pictures of the whole install but have not
written any install notes yet so
that is why they are not on anyone's web
page yet (Team3S, Lucius, and
Bedell's). Sorry guys - I'm getting to it
slowly.
* Big Red kit with brackets from Brad
* Pagid Orange pads for
racing from Brad for the front
* Goodridge SS lines on all corners from
Brad
* Cryo-treated front stock rotors from Mohler
* Porterfield R4-S
pads for racing from Mohler
* Motul 600 brake fluid from Mohler
*
Porsche 993 pads for the street from the Porsche store
* Speed bleeder brake
bleeders for all corners from Speed Bleeder
First event is a PCA
driving event this weekend at Mid-Ohio. I am stoked.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 2:13
PM
To: Simon Jones
Cc: 3S Tech List
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Red
Kit
> Is the Big Red kit still available from Brad? I tried
e-mailing him last
> week, but haven't had any response.
- ---
They
should be, let us know what happens there.
> Also, is the
part number for Porterfield cryo'd front discs for the kit
> JBR785
regardless of the year of the car. What pads do people use
with
this
> kit?
- ---
Yes, you should be using the 785 rotor for
the BR kit.
The SL uses a 583, and the 1st Gen uses a 582.
Brad
will supply you pads, and I can replace them with porterfield pads
for 126 or
135 depending if you want a streetable pad, or a race pad.
Merrit got his
a few weeks ago I think.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 2001 13:10:37
MDT
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re:
Team3S: Erratic O2 readings]
Thanks for the info. The palmlogger does
report ISC and fuel trim values, and
you can disable the injectors
individually. Of course I picked this weekend to
start my ARC2 install so the
car isn't running at all right now. Hopefully I
won't compound the issue by
introducing other problems. I should have it wired
up this weekend and I'll
do some more logs with better information.
Thanks
again,
Mark
Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
wrote:
Some possibilities:
- Extreme timing advance - check with
timing light, adjust with CAS
('91 and '92 only). Neither the TMO nor
palmlogger report absolute
timing.
- ISC/IAC stepper motor - check
with ohm-meter at connector or check
stepper motor coil voltage at ECU plug.
Does palmlogger report ISC
step count?
- ??? bad idle air by-pass
valve ???
- ??? bad ECU capacitors ???
- ??? vacuum leak
???
- ??? bad injector ??? Can palmlogger turn injectors
off
individually? Does palmlogger report fuel trim values?
The service
manual lists about 2 dozen items to check that are
related to
idle.
Why don't you record some logs with about everything "turned on"
on
the palmlogger. Record one at idle for about 15 seconds. Record
another
with decent accel through the gears.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 10, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2
readings
I'm glad to hear that there's nothing wrong with the O2
sensors. It
there something else that would cause the engine to rev up and
down
while idling? That's probably the question that I should have
asked
in the first place.
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 15:20:54
EDT
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Big Red Kit
Anyone have any idea on what the total cost would be for a
1992 3000GT VR4??
Total cost for all parts for the Big Red Brake
Kit??
Thanks in advance,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy".
In a message
dated 4/10/01 2:08:16 PM Central Daylight Time,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
writes:
> I got mine a few more weeks ago and can get part numbers
for you. I have
> pictures of the whole install but have not written
any install notes yet so
> that is why they are not on anyone's web page
yet (Team3S, Lucius, and
> Bedell's). Sorry guys - I'm getting to it
slowly.
>
> * Big Red kit with brackets from
Brad
> * Pagid Orange pads for racing from Brad for the
front
> * Goodridge SS lines on all corners from
Brad
>
> * Cryo-treated front stock rotors from
Mohler
> * Porterfield R4-S pads for racing from
Mohler
> * Motul 600 brake fluid from Mohler
>
> * Porsche 993 pads for the street from the Porsche
store
> * Speed bleeder brake bleeders for all corners
from Speed Bleeder
>
>
>
> First event is a PCA
driving event this weekend at Mid-Ohio. I am stoked.
>
>
--Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> 3Si
#577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
> Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, April 10, 2001 2:13 PM
> To: Simon
Jones
> Cc: 3S Tech List
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Red Kit
>
> > Is the
Big Red kit still available from Brad? I tried e-mailing him last
>
> week, but haven't had any response.
> ---
> They should be, let
us know what happens there.
>
>
> > Also, is the part
number for Porterfield cryo'd front discs for the kit
> > JBR785
regardless of the year of the car. What pads do people use with
>
this
> > kit?
> ---
> Yes, you should be using the 785
rotor for the BR kit.
>
> The SL uses a 583, and the 1st Gen uses a
582.
>
> Brad will supply you pads, and I can replace them with
porterfield pads
> for 126 or 135 depending if you want a streetable pad,
or a race pad.
>
> Merrit got his a few weeks ago I
think.
