*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 18:28:59 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation/Missing at high boost (need diagnosis help)

>Iwas thinking of taking out the front three plugs and inspecting them. Any
>ideas?? Should I regap the plugs to 30?? This makes me nervous because
>this is a new rebuild and I expect the car to be running very strong.

First off, thanks everyone who replied. I checked the front three plugs and
they were at 34. All were very black on the metal part, but the electrode
and inner ceramic looked clean.   They also smelled like gas and the threads
were wet on two of the plugs. I clicked the ARC2 High setting down a notch
and the datalogger showed no knock and .90 to .92 O2 readings. I kept the
boost at 0.8 bar, and it was running fine at this boost level. Also, EGTs
didn't seem to go above 800 C. Is there any potential damage that running
the car so rich may have done to the engine? It has about 1500 miles so
far.

Rich

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 22:14:17 -0400
From: Mark W <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: Weird Tuning Problem (DSM)

I am aware that this is the Team3S list, but I know there are a lot of very
knowledgeable people that might be able to provide some insight into a
problem one of my friends is having. To save from cluttering the list,
please respond to me directly if you have any insights. Here is the story
(and problem):

My friend has a '91 Talon TSi AWD and has just done a major upgrade
job. He is now running 660cc injectors, Apexi SAFC, Garrett T3/T4 hybrid,
Teil External Wastegate, custom exhaust manifold, FMIC, and a custom intake
pipe with a filtered but un-metered small additional K&N on it. He has had
problems in the past tuning in the 660cc injectors with just the AFC and I
continue to urge him to get another solution. He is considering the
Haltech, as he doesn't know anyone (besides me) with the ARC2 and can't get
a 660cc chip (that he knows of) for the VPC. So I hooked my datalogger up
to his car tonight to see if we could start to tune the car in and raise
boost. Initially boost was set @ 16psi. First gear came and went like a
flash, second gear was quick as well and quite strong. The car felt very
strong, was running about .96v O2 and getting no knock. I was telling him
to make a couple of heavy load runs and then we would probably want to lean
out the HI throttle position some as .96v was too rich. Skipping a few
other identical runs.

We went to the highway and on the entrance ramp he down-shifted into 2nd
and got on it. The car pulled extremely hard. At about 6k RPM he pushed
in the clutch, let off the accelerator and tried to shift. This is where
the weird problem came in to play. The car started bouncing off of the rev
limiter. TPS voltage went down as if the sensor was working properly. He
hit the accelerator a few times and the car kept bouncing off of the rev
limiter. He shut the car off. When he started the car again the RPMs
started to rise again and he shut the car off again. The next time he
started the car, it idled fine. The car drove fine.

He was able to recreate the problem 2 more times by getting on it and
shifting above 6k RPMs, but it didn't happen EVERY time he shifted. It was
very bizarre. I have a link posted to an export he made of the logs I gave
him. If any of you gurus out there are interested in a very interesting
problem I would love to hear ideas about what exactly is going on with this
thing. ECU?

Thanks.

Mark W.
'93 R/T TT

A copy of the log extract is here:
http://www.siscom.net/~pagan/revcrazy.jpg

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 02:01:11 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: OBD II Help - answer

I have no idea. You'd have to really compare the wiring diagrams for the
'95 and '96 cars closely. Ordinarily I'd say you could plug in a '96 ECU
and find out, but after doing a plug swap on a friend's '97 I noticed a
small difference, which in and of itself isn't a big deal, but it makes you
wonder "What OTHER differences are there?"

His has what looks like a MAP sensor on the top of the intake manifold,
whereas my '95 Spyder VR-4 (California) and my old '95 VR-4 (Federal) did
not.

Also, I don't think it's worth it to switch because the '96+ will actually
give you a check engine light if you run long enough with no precats. My
'95 seems to ignore it, but I have to help reset codes on local 3000's every
so often.

I have tried using an OBDII scanner on my car and a TMO datalogger (put it
in using a bunch of jumper wires) and neither work. Only the tools listed
below will work, as far as I can gather from my research.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'95 Chevrolet K1500 Z71

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Jeff'" <spydervr4@home.com>; "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 8:09 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: OBD II Help - answer

>
> Is it possible to change the ODB II to a 1996+ ?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff [mailto:spydervr4@home.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 8:52 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: OBD II Help - answer
>
>
> No OBDII reader will work on '94-95 cars; they have their own protocol.
The
> only tools I know of that can read codes and get datastream from these
cars
> are the Mitsubishi MUT-II, Chrysler DRB series, Snap On MT2500, and OTC
> 3337.
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '95 Chevrolet K1500 Z71

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 08:13:48 -0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Removed EGR = check engine on???

I have a question concerning the reason why my "Check Engine" light is on?
I have recently had some work done on my '94 R/T TT which includes.
All syncros replaced
New clutch
K&N Filter
Bypass of the EGR valve (blocked off by plate)
Boost controller (set up to 1 bar, however I have not run the car
with it set above .85 bar)
Since then after about 100 miles the Check Engine light comes on. Could
this be because of the removal of the EGR valve? Can I just ignore the
warning, and pull the appropriate fuse? One thing to note is that I do live
in an area which does not require emissions inspection.

In an unrelated question, I'm thinking of buying a new set of aluminum
wheels to replace the heavy chrome stock ones. What style looks good on a
'94? And where is the best place to unload the stock chrome ones?

Michael Donnelly
1994 R/T TT
62,000 miles
nearing the end of a long line of repairs

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:56:58 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

My thermostat is bad and shows similar symptoms. At first it was only when
taking a hard right turn that the light came on. Then the car would take 30
minutes to give me hot air in the morning. It would blow hot air until I
pushed the clutch in. The temp needle stayed right in the middle but I
didn't trust it since I think the thermostat was stuck open (which is better
than sticking shut). It let so much coolant through that it would go from
full to empty in a matter of hours on the highway. One bottle of coolant
cured this.

It is at the dealer getting the thermostat replaced so I'm clear but see if
this is your problem.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu [mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 10:58 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Everyone,

For the past month I have been getting my low coolant level light has been
turning on in the morning for the 1st 1 minute of driving. When I check the
coolant level in the morning it looks very low in the overfill container.
However, when I get to my destination (after the car is warmed up) the
container is full much above the FULL line.

For a while, I thought I had a leak in the cooling sys, however, after
extensively reffiling the overfill container every morning for several
mornings, I realized that it was spilling out coolant and messing up the
engine bay. So I stopped filling up the car anymore, and I have been
ignoring the coolant light for the 1st minute.

Do you guys think I have air in the system? Maybe I should flush everything
out. Does anyone know of the capacity of the cooling sys (95 VR4)?

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 10:19:49 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Correction ... the dealer just called to say that I have a water pump that
is leaking bad.

This is good because they found the problem but as anyone knows - the only
way to know this is leaking is to get to it and the only way to get to it is
to remove the tranny and stuff. I know this is something that was going to
be replaced at the 60k service (less than 5k away) but I had them do it now.

This is only $700 (including labor) which means in 5k when they do the fuel
pump, etc. it will be a lot less than the $1,200 I was expecting to pay.
Baby steps.

So the thermostat might not have been leaking but the water pump was which
explains why the coolant would leak but no hoses or overflow tubes were wet.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ 55,555 miles (just passed it) Big Reds, Autopower
rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 9:57 AM
To: 'Mihai Raicu'; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

My thermostat is bad and shows similar symptoms. At first it was only when
taking a hard right turn that the light came on. Then the car would take 30
minutes to give me hot air in the morning. It would blow hot air until I
pushed the clutch in. The temp needle stayed right in the middle but I
didn't trust it since I think the thermostat was stuck open (which is better
than sticking shut). It let so much coolant through that it would go from
full to empty in a matter of hours on the highway. One bottle of coolant
cured this.

It is at the dealer getting the thermostat replaced so I'm clear but see if
this is your problem.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu [mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 10:58 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Everyone,

For the past month I have been getting my low coolant level light has been
turning on in the morning for the 1st 1 minute of driving. When I check the
coolant level in the morning it looks very low in the overfill container.
However, when I get to my destination (after the car is warmed up) the
container is full much above the FULL line.

For a while, I thought I had a leak in the cooling sys, however, after
extensively reffiling the overfill container every morning for several
mornings, I realized that it was spilling out coolant and messing up the
engine bay. So I stopped filling up the car anymore, and I have been
ignoring the coolant light for the 1st minute.

Do you guys think I have air in the system? Maybe I should flush everything
out. Does anyone know of the capacity of the cooling sys (95 VR4)?

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:32:43 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Removed EGR = check engine on???

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Donnelly, Michael <DonnellM@ctc.com>

> I have a question concerning the reason why my "Check Engine" light is on?
> I have recently had some work done on my '94 R/T TT which includes.

> All syncros replaced

Who replaced the synchros ---- I was under the impression that synchros for
3/4 and 5th were not available !?!?!?!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

> Since then after about 100 miles the Check Engine light comes on. Could
> this be because of the removal of the EGR valve? Can I just ignore the
> warning, and pull the appropriate fuse? One thing to note is that I do live
> in an area which does not require emissions inspection.

You need to read the code for the problem ---- a manual and a voltmeter are
all that is required. That should tell you specifically what the problem is.

        Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:34:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

>> but as anyone knows - the only way to know this
>> is leaking is to get to it and the only way to
>> get to it is to remove the tranny and stuff.

Flash,

Please do not let someone work on the car that thinks the trany must
be removed to change or inspect the water pump. They are after all on
opposite sides of the engine. Or did I misunderstand your comment?

Also, you can easily replace the fuel pump if you need to. See my
Garage page for that link and many others.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
To: "'Mihai Raicu'" <aa2345@wayne.edu>; "Team3S"
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 8:19 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Correction ... the dealer just called to say that I have a water pump
that is leaking bad.

This is good because they found the problem but as anyone knows - the
only way to know this is leaking is to get to it and the only way to
get to it is to remove the tranny and stuff. I know this is
something that was going to be replaced at the 60k service (less than
5k away) but I had them do it now.

This is only $700 (including labor) which means in 5k when they do
the fuel pump, etc. it will be a lot less than the $1,200 I was
expecting to pay.

Baby steps.

So the thermostat might not have been leaking but the water pump was
which explains why the coolant would leak but no hoses or overflow
tubes were wet.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ 55,555 miles (just passed it) Big Reds, Autopower
rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a
custom spark
plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 9:57 AM
To: 'Mihai Raicu'; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

My thermostat is bad and shows similar symptoms. At first it was
only when
taking a hard right turn that the light came on. Then the car would
take 30
minutes to give me hot air in the morning. It would blow hot air
until I
pushed the clutch in. The temp needle stayed right in the middle but
I
didn't trust it since I think the thermostat was stuck open (which is
better
than sticking shut). It let so much coolant through that it would go
from
full to empty in a matter of hours on the highway. One bottle of
coolant
cured this.

It is at the dealer getting the thermostat replaced so I'm clear but
see if
this is your problem.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu [mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 10:58 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Everyone,

For the past month I have been getting my low coolant level light has
been
turning on in the morning for the 1st 1 minute of driving. When I
check the
coolant level in the morning it looks very low in the overfill
container.
However, when I get to my destination (after the car is warmed up)
the
container is full much above the FULL line.

For a while, I thought I had a leak in the cooling sys, however,
after
extensively reffiling the overfill container every morning for
several
mornings, I realized that it was spilling out coolant and messing up
the
engine bay. So I stopped filling up the car anymore, and I have been
ignoring the coolant light for the 1st minute.

Do you guys think I have air in the system? Maybe I should flush
everything
out. Does anyone know of the capacity of the cooling sys (95 VR4)?

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:36:11 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

At 10:19 AM 4/9/01 -0400, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
>Correction ... the dealer just called to say that I have a water pump that
>is leaking bad.>This is good because they found the problem but as anyone
knows - the only
>way to know this is leaking is to get to it and the only way to get to it is
>to remove the tranny and stuff.

Whoa!! You don't take the tranny off to fix the water pump. You replace
the pump when you do the 60K tuneup for the timing belts. I thought you had
a warranty? This should be covered. Also, they replace the timing belts if
you have a leaky pump as part of the warranty, because if coolant gets on
the belts it eats them away. So, if you do have a warranty, then you get a
free 60K tuneup. I did. Your Mitsu dealer should be helping you on this.

Rich

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:41:19 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

Didn't get any answers to this qustion, I try to send it again, maybe I have better luck this time...

> Hi,
>
> Is it possible to use the stronger 95+ transfer case in combination with a 5 speed (93) gearbox if you use a propeller shaft from a 6 speed?
>
> /Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 07:59:09 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Removed EGR = check engine on???

When I blocked off the EGR with a plate, I get an intermittent check engine
light also. The datalogger showed the ECU error was EGR. I believe the
temp sensor is reporting an error because it's no longer getting hot without
the exhaust gas running through it. I've heard some remove the temp sensor
and move it closer to the manifold to stay warm and not trigger the ECU
error.

Rich

on 4/9/01 5:13 AM, Donnelly, Michael at DonnellM@ctc.com wrote:

> I have a question concerning the reason why my "Check Engine" light is on?
> I have recently had some work done on my '94 R/T TT which includes.
> All syncros replaced
> New clutch
> K&N Filter
> Bypass of the EGR valve (blocked off by plate)
> Boost controller (set up to 1 bar, however I have not run the car
> with it set above .85 bar)
> Since then after about 100 miles the Check Engine light comes on. Could
> this be because of the removal of the EGR valve? Can I just ignore the
> warning, and pull the appropriate fuse? One thing to note is that I do live
> in an area which does not require emissions inspection.
>
> In an unrelated question, I'm thinking of buying a new set of aluminum
> wheels to replace the heavy chrome stock ones. What style looks good on a
> '94? And where is the best place to unload the stock chrome ones?
>
>
> Michael Donnelly
> 1994 R/T TT
> 62,000 miles
> nearing the end of a long line of repairs

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:06:12 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Yes apologies to everyone when I mis-spoke.

They called saying that "since we are in there we might as well replace
those since the 60k service is coming up in about a month and you already
will have 3 hours wrapped up in the water pump, thermostat, and other things
you wanted us to check."

That led me to believe that I did not want to pay for another 3-hour
Mitsubishi labor bill so I gave them the green light to replace everything.

I am taking the car to a Porsche Driving Event this weekend and am just
making sure that everything is in good working order and this was one way to
make sure in my mind that the car was track worthy.

Thanks to everyone who commented, but this time also includes replacing the
rear spark plugs and spark plug wires since this takes me considerable time
and I don't have all the right tools yet. I would rather spend $500 now and
know the car is set rather than waiting until Friday and wasting the
non-refundable $350 for the Porsche Club driving event and assuming my car
would pass Tech.

A bird in the hand is safer than one overhead a freshly waxed car.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
Please do not let someone work on the car that thinks the trany must
be removed to change or inspect the water pump. They are after all on
opposite sides of the engine. Or did I misunderstand your comment?

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 10:22:36 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Removed EGR = check engine on???

Definitely get the code checked. My EGR tube has been removed for 2 years
and I have no check engine light. I do, however, still have the EGR valve
still there and hooked up.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'95 Chevrolet K1500 Z71

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <DonnellM@ctc.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 7:13 AM
Subject: Team3S: Removed EGR = check engine on???

> I have a question concerning the reason why my "Check Engine" light is on?
> I have recently had some work done on my '94 R/T TT which includes.
> All syncros replaced
> New clutch
> K&N Filter
> Bypass of the EGR valve (blocked off by plate)
> Boost controller (set up to 1 bar, however I have not run the car
> with it set above .85 bar)
> Since then after about 100 miles the Check Engine light comes on. Could
> this be because of the removal of the EGR valve? Can I just ignore the
> warning, and pull the appropriate fuse? One thing to note is that I do
live
> in an area which does not require emissions inspection.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 08:23:06 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

Mikael

I think the big issue is the number of splines on the output shaft of the trans.
The later models all have the 25 spline shaft. The 92 has the 18 spline and
I just replaced the trans/ transfer case in my 93 and it was a 25 spline but I'm
not sure when the change took place.

My car was manufactured in june of 92, but I bought the car used so it may
not be the origional combination.

I have no idea as to the length of the drive shaft.

        Jim Berry
=======================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mikael Kenson <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 7:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

> Didn't get any answers to this qustion, I try to send it again, maybe I have better luck this time...
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Is it possible to use the stronger 95+ transfer case in combination with a 5 speed (93) gearbox if you use a propeller
shaft from a 6 speed?
> >
> > /Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 16:42:12 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Off Topic worth reading (ADMIN message)

>Subject: Team3S: Off Topic worth reading

PLEASE do not reply to this message on the list. It is a rule that
off-topics are discussed offline. Furthermore this is a non-international
topic (nothing of interest for other than US or CHI) so please leave that
privately. The Starnet list and Message Board is the right place to post,
but not here.

Thanks for your support,
Roger for the Admins

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:36:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

Mikael,

Are you asking if you can use a 6-spd transfer case (with its
gearing) and a 5-spd transaxle (with its gearing) together?

While it might be possible to mechanically connect the two cases (I
don't know if the mounting bolt patterns are the same), the overall
front and rear gearing will not match. You would have the 5-spd front
diff (2.889) matched with the 6-spd xfer (0.958) and 5-spd rear diff
(3.545), 0.958 x 3.545 = 3.396. The overall front and rear ratios
would not match. The 5-spd xfer ratio equals 0.815, so 0.815 x 3.545
equals 2.889 (same as the front diff).

Simply, the front diff ratio must equal the rear diff ratio times the
transfer case ratio.

More details at my Illustrated Guide to our AWD system.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-AWD.htm

Now the question might be, could you take the bevel gears out of a
5-spd and place them in a 6-spd transfer case? And would there be any
advantage to this?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 8:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

Didn't get any answers to this qustion, I try to send it again, maybe
I have better luck this time...

> Hi,
>
> Is it possible to use the stronger 95+ transfer case in combination
with a 5 speed (93) gearbox if you use a propeller shaft from a 6
speed?
>
> /Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 12:44:19 -0400
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings

Sorry, the correct url is"

http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.gif

Mark

Mark Creekmore wrote:

> I just recently connected a pocketlogger to my '92 Stealth TT. I noticed
> that the O2 readings are all over the place. Constantly going back and
> forth from around .1 to .9. Also the RPMs at idle seem to bounce between
> 650 to 850.
>
> Is this normal? Do I have bad O2 sensors?
>
> You can see a chart of O2, RPM and timing at:
> http://home.att.net/~stealth/palmlog.gif
>
> Sorry about the presentation, this is my first attempt at charting a log
> file with MS Excel.
>
> Mark Creekmore
> '92 Stealth R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 18:57:37 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings

>I just recently connected a pocketlogger to my '92 Stealth TT. I noticed
>that the O2 readings are all over the place. Constantly going back and
>forth from around .1 to .9.

Normal

> Also the RPMs at idle seem to bounce between
>650 to 850.

Is this audible and visible on the tach too ?

>Is this normal? Do I have bad O2 sensors?
>
>You can see a chart of O2, RPM and timing at:
>http://home.att.net/~stealth/palmlog.gif
>
>Sorry about the presentation, this is my first attempt at charting a log
>file with MS Excel.

Yes, it doesn't say a lot. You shoudl always provide TPS voltage too.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 10:03:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings

The O2 readings look normal for idle. What you are seeing is the ECU
richening a little then leaning a little in an attempt to get a ~14.7
A/F, and the O2 sensor is just responding to that. When the engine
revs increase (not under load) the O2 will sweep faster. Under load,
the O2 voltage should stop sweeping and hang out at the 0.9 volt end.

The RPM should be close to rock steady at idle. I have only seen my
RPM and timing vary like that when my timing (CAS) was set wrong. I
don't think this is the problem with your car. Looks like the
pocketlogger still has some bugs to work out.

I would be very interested in seeing the XLS or CSV file if you would
like to attach it to an email to me at jlucius@stealth316.com

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Creekmore" <mcreekmore@usa.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings

Sorry, the correct url is"

http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.gif

Mark

Mark Creekmore wrote:

> I just recently connected a pocketlogger to my '92 Stealth TT. I
noticed
> that the O2 readings are all over the place. Constantly going back
and
> forth from around .1 to .9. Also the RPMs at idle seem to bounce
between
> 650 to 850.
>
> Is this normal? Do I have bad O2 sensors?
>
> You can see a chart of O2, RPM and timing at:
> http://home.att.net/~stealth/palmlog.gif
>
> Sorry about the presentation, this is my first attempt at charting
a log
> file with MS Excel.
>
> Mark Creekmore
> '92 Stealth R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 14:28:51 -0400
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings

Roger,

Yes, the RPM bounce is audible and visible on the tach.

You can get the csv file at:
http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.zip

It contains - RPM, Knock, Timing, O2, Inj P/W, TPS, Coolant and O2 Trim.

Mark

Roger Gerl wrote:

> >I just recently connected a pocketlogger to my '92 Stealth TT. I noticed
> >that the O2 readings are all over the place. Constantly going back and
> >forth from around .1 to .9.
>
> Normal
>
> > Also the RPMs at idle seem to bounce between
> >650 to 850.
>
> Is this audible and visible on the tach too ?
>
> >Is this normal? Do I have bad O2 sensors?
> >
> >You can see a chart of O2, RPM and timing at:
> >http://home.att.net/~stealth/palmlog.gif
> >
> >Sorry about the presentation, this is my first attempt at charting a log
> >file with MS Excel.
>
> Yes, it doesn't say a lot. You shoudl always provide TPS voltage too.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 14:31:50 -0400
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings

Jeff,

I think that the palmlogger is accurate. The engine is definitely revving
up and down slightly. You can see the tach move.

You can get the csv file at:
http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.zip

It contains - RPM, Knock, Timing, O2, Inj P/W, TPS, Coolant and O2 Trim.

Mark

Jeff Lucius wrote:

> The O2 readings look normal for idle. What you are seeing is the ECU
> richening a little then leaning a little in an attempt to get a ~14.7
> A/F, and the O2 sensor is just responding to that. When the engine
> revs increase (not under load) the O2 will sweep faster. Under load,
> the O2 voltage should stop sweeping and hang out at the 0.9 volt end.
>
> The RPM should be close to rock steady at idle. I have only seen my
> RPM and timing vary like that when my timing (CAS) was set wrong. I
> don't think this is the problem with your car. Looks like the
> pocketlogger still has some bugs to work out.
>
> I would be very interested in seeing the XLS or CSV file if you would
> like to attach it to an email to me at jlucius@stealth316.com
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Creekmore" <mcreekmore@usa.net>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 10:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Erratic O2 readings
>
> Sorry, the correct url is"
>
> http://home.att.net/~stealth_tt/palmlog.gif
>
> Mark
>
> Mark Creekmore wrote:
>
> > I just recently connected a pocketlogger to my '92 Stealth TT. I
> noticed
> > that the O2 readings are all over the place. Constantly going back
> and
> > forth from around .1 to .9. Also the RPMs at idle seem to bounce
> between
> > 650 to 850.
> >
> > Is this normal? Do I have bad O2 sensors?
> >
> > You can see a chart of O2, RPM and timing at:
> > http://home.att.net/~stealth/palmlog.gif
> >
> > Sorry about the presentation, this is my first attempt at charting
> a log
> > file with MS Excel.
> >
> > Mark Creekmore
> > '92 Stealth R/T TT
> >

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:27:32 +0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: AirCon

Someone mentioned some time back about getting their AirCon recharged. Now
UK weather is such that it is very seldom we need the air con to blow cold
but today I noticed that even when the left indicator showed COLD (very
bottom bar) it was still quite warm air being blown from the vents. How
often does the aircon need recharged? What's involved? As I said AirCon of
any type is not common in the UK (N Ireland).

- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions Ltd

eMail:                 george.shaw@xlsolutions.com
eMail:                 george.shaw@btinternet.com
Office:                 +44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice Mail:   +44 (0) 87 0831 4052
Mobile:               +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
Home:                 +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
ICQ#:                          1741675

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:23:48 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: FYI: Curb Weight Data for '95 3000GT

> Cool! How did you do the corner weights? Level surface, I hope!

I live near a weigh station where the scales are always on and the readout
is visible if you peer in the window (easier at night). Doing the corners
and keeping it level was tricky (F/R and total are easy), but I think I got
it (the numbers add up).

> Without you in the car is not necessarily helpful: a couple
> hundred more pounds on the driver's side might make you
> consider raising the left suspension to get neutral.

With a driver or passenger in the car, the weight distribution is about 55%
on the rear and 45% on the front. This is consistent with the seating
position being slightly aft of the center of mass. I didn't mess with
corners with a person in the car, but I'll check that sometime when I have
time.

- --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:06:00 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AirCon

Depending on your year of car and type of air condition system, you will
either need R-12 (more rare andmore expensive), or R-134A refrigerant.

R-134A is very cheap, and refill kits can be bought at any US parts store.
I would assume it is the same over there, though I may be wrong.

R-12 may be more difficult to find, but a R-12 system can be changed over to
R-134A with some new seals, and I believe a new compressor.

As far as how often it takes before it needs recharged, 2-3 years minimum I
would say, but I have also seen cars 7-8 years old with original freon, and
very very cold A/C. It probably depends on how much wear on the system
there is, and how well it was engineered to begin with.

Of course - if it's leaking, which it may be, you will need to take it to a
shop and have them determine where the leak is.

- -Cody

#Someone mentioned some time back about getting their AirCon recharged. Now
#UK weather is such that it is very seldom we need the air con to blow cold
#but today I noticed that even when the left indicator showed COLD (very
#bottom bar) it was still quite warm air being blown from the vents. How
#often does the aircon need recharged? What's involved? As I said AirCon of
#any type is not common in the UK (N Ireland).

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:09:46 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>

> Mikael,
>
> While it might be possible to mechanically connect the two cases (I
> don't know if the mounting bolt patterns are the same), the overall
> front and rear gearing will not match.

I thought the rear differential ratio is what was changed when they went
to the 6 speed --- or did they change the ratio of all three components ???

==================================================
> Now the question might be, could you take the bevel gears out of a
> 5-spd and place them in a 6-spd transfer case? And would there be any
> advantage to this?

The advantage to the 6 speed is that the case is cast iron as opposed to
aluminum --- supposed to be stronger.

        Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:09:27 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AirCon

At 03:06 PM 4/9/01 -0500, cody wrote:
>Depending on your year of car and type of air condition system, you will
>either need R-12 (more rare and more expensive), or R-134A refrigerant.
>R-134A is very cheap, and refill kits can be bought at any US parts store.
>I would assume it is the same over there, though I may be wrong.
>R-12 may be more difficult to find, but a R-12 system can be changed over to
>R-134A with some new seals, and I believe a new compressor.

Most R134A conversions are disastrous. 134 is much more permeable than R12,
and will leak out of everything -- hoses, seals, etc. It also is a terrible
refrigerant, and will not work as well as the old R12. As long as you can
buy R12, keep buying it. It's all part of the great Trillion-Dollar ozone
farce and ripoff.

Rich/old poop/boycotting the Chinese

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:20:47 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: anyone installed a carbon fiber dash

I am thinking about getting one of those carbon fiber dash kits for my 1997
VR-4 and was wondering if anyone has installed one ?

Are they easy to install ?
Are they good looking or do they look cheap ?
How good is the glue on them ?

I am thinking about a yellow/black kit on ebay and was wondering if anyone
has dealt with this vendor before ?

A friend told me about dashboards plus, and I saw a kit on their web site,
but it is really expensive.

Any suggestions, comments ?

Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:22:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

Gear ratios.

5-spd front diff     2.889
5-spd transfer case 0.815
5-spd rear diff      3.545 (0.815 x 3.545 = 2.889)

6-spd front diff     3.166
6-spd transfer case 0.958
6-spd rear diff      3.307 (0.958 x 3.307 = 3.168; roundoff error)

More details at my Illustrated Guide to our AWD system.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-AWD.htm

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case combinations

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>

> Mikael,
>
> While it might be possible to mechanically connect the two cases (I
> don't know if the mounting bolt patterns are the same), the overall
> front and rear gearing will not match.

I thought the rear differential ratio is what was changed when they
went to the 6 speed --- or did they change the ratio of all three
components ???

==================================================
> Now the question might be, could you take the bevel gears out of a
> 5-spd and place them in a 6-spd transfer case? And would there be
any
> advantage to this?

The advantage to the 6 speed is that the case is cast iron as opposed
to aluminum --- supposed to be stronger.

        Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #459
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