team3s              Sunday, April 8 2001              Volume 01 : Number 458

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 16:42:12 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Power Window Problem

Most likely the window lock switch --- or do a search of the archives.

        Jim Berry
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Hull <mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Cc: Team 3/S List <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 3:42 PM
Subject: Team3S: Power Window Problem

> My passanger side power window stopped working and it is stuck down and i
> need to fix the problem or atleast get it up. I can not control it from
> the driver or passanger side, but the door locks do work. The light
> that illuminates the window/locks on the passanger side buttons is also
> not working, so I think its just a electrical connection somewhere. Any
> help would be great. Thanks!!
>
> Matt
> 94' Stealth R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 19:53:26 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: OBD II Help

Everyone,

I have been talking via e-mail with someone from Autotap about their new OBD
II datalogger they came out with ($289 I think). I asked him whether his
system would work on a 94 TT and a 95 VR4 (transition years).

He asked me the following question:
>"Mike,
>    Can you send me the engine size for these vehicles and the pin out of
>the OBDII connector. I just need to know which pins are populated. Thanks,
>Joe"

I looked on Vinnet's CD and can't quite figure out all the pins for the DATA
LINK CONNECTOR (16 pins). I also looked on Jeff Lucius' page, and the
Awesome Manual he has on there is for a 1st gen car. Can anyone tell me the
info in the question above (pins of DATA LINK CONNECTOR and engine size -- I
assume he doesn't want to know it's a 3.0 L...he probably needs the engine
code).

Thanks a lot.

Info on the company I'm talking with.
Joe Ebner
B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
707 Dayton Rd.,P.O.Box 1040
Ottawa,Il 61350
Ph. (815)433-5100 Ext.242
Fax (815)433-5104
E-Mail:jebner@bb-elec.com
E-Mail:jebner@autotap.com
Would you like to be an AutoTap Insider?
Visit www.autotap.com/insider.html

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 19:53:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Power Window fixed

The Window lock was the problem!! I can't believe I am that dumb, I
thought even with the lock on the driver side could still control the
tother side. Thanks!!!

- -Matt

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 18:11:25 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power Window fixed

If it makes you feel any better, I know several people that this has
happened to, myself included. Join the club.

The time it happened to me, I drove about 60 miles in the rain on the
highway with my passenger window down over half way until I realized what I
had done.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> The Window lock was the problem!! I can't believe I am that dumb, I
> thought even with the lock on the driver side could still control the
> tother side. Thanks!!!
>
> -Matt

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 18:11:13 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power Window fixed

If it makes you feel any better, I know several people that this has
happened to, myself included. Join the club.

The time it happened to me, I drove about 60 miles in the rain on the
highway with my passenger window down over half way until I realized what I
had done.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> The Window lock was the problem!! I can't believe I am that dumb, I
> thought even with the lock on the driver side could still control the
> tother side. Thanks!!!
>
> -Matt

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 21:51:55 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OBD II Help

No OBDII reader will work on '94-95 cars; they have their own protocol. The
only tools I know of that can read codes and get datastream from these cars
are the Mitsubishi MUT-II, Chrysler DRB series, Snap On MT2500, and OTC
3337.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'95 Chevrolet K1500 Z71

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 6:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: OBD II Help

> Everyone,
>
> I have been talking via e-mail with someone from Autotap about their new
OBD
> II datalogger they came out with ($289 I think). I asked him whether his
> system would work on a 94 TT and a 95 VR4 (transition years).
>
> He asked me the following question:
> >"Mike,
> >    Can you send me the engine size for these vehicles and the pin out of
> >the OBDII connector. I just need to know which pins are populated.
Thanks,
> >Joe"
>
> I looked on Vinnet's CD and can't quite figure out all the pins for the
DATA
> LINK CONNECTOR (16 pins). I also looked on Jeff Lucius' page, and the
> Awesome Manual he has on there is for a 1st gen car. Can anyone tell me
the
> info in the question above (pins of DATA LINK CONNECTOR and engine size --
I
> assume he doesn't want to know it's a 3.0 L...he probably needs the engine
> code).
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Info on the company I'm talking with.
> Joe Ebner
> B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
> 707 Dayton Rd.,P.O.Box 1040
> Ottawa,Il 61350
> Ph. (815)433-5100 Ext.242
> Fax (815)433-5104
> E-Mail:jebner@bb-elec.com
> E-Mail:jebner@autotap.com
> Would you like to be an AutoTap Insider?
> Visit www.autotap.com/insider.html
>
>
> -MIKE-
> 95 Red VR4
> Detroit Metro Area, MI

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 22:58:12 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Low Coolant Level!

Everyone,

For the past month I have been getting my low coolant level light has been
turning on in the morning for the 1st 1 minute of driving. When I check the
coolant level in the morning it looks very low in the overfill container.
However, when I get to my destination (after the car is warmed up) the
container is full much above the FULL line.

For a while, I thought I had a leak in the cooling sys, however, after
extensively reffiling the overfill container every morning for several
mornings, I realized that it was spilling out coolant and messing up the
engine bay. So I stopped filling up the car anymore, and I have been
ignoring the coolant light for the 1st minute.

Do you guys think I have air in the system? Maybe I should flush everything
out. Does anyone know of the capacity of the cooling sys (95 VR4)?

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 22:40:18 -0500
From: "charles pendleton" <gotmilk2000@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: HELP ALL 3/SI MECHANICS!

ok here is the deal. i just got myy stealth back from the shop. they
replaced the valve stem seals,timing belt,clutch,ect. .....anyway, i noticed
that it has a very lumpy and off sounding idle ( like an over cam'ed V8) and
also it now has a lifter tick ( or ping). they told me that this is normal
and it was just from the air in the valves. that it (the off idle/ no power)
and the sound (tick)would go away in about a day or so and if it didnt to
bring it back. is this right? help please!

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 22:42:04 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power Window fixed

On a side note - the window switches on the passenger side are not powered
as there are no lights inside them to power.

You can custom wire in some LED's like I did - pretty cool effect too...

- -Cody

#If it makes you feel any better, I know several people that this has
#happened to, myself included. Join the club.
#
#The time it happened to me, I drove about 60 miles in the rain on the
#highway with my passenger window down over half way until I realized what I
#had done.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 05:24:04 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV

I can say with experience, on my personal BOV, that I was unable to reach
1.00 bar with the stock BOV in place during the summer in Atlanta. I spent
quite a while trying to find the boost leak. The second I replaced the
stock BOV with a DSM 1G, I had no problems reaching 1.0 bar.

Michael
98 VR4

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 16:03
> To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>
>
> Now were you guys blowing into the main opening *and* the little pipe
> on top? The BOV is designed to work on pressure differential. So when
> you blow only into the big main opening you are duplicating the case
> where the Y-pipe has more pressure than the plenum. The BOV does just
> what it's supposed to do in this situation - "leak"! Try your
> experiments again, but apply pressure to both openings.
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
> To: "'Team3s'" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 1:45 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>
> I've done that with stock BOV's from different TT's. I haven't found
> a stock BOV yet that I couldn't blow air through with my mouth.
> Plastic pieces of crap.
>
> Michael
> 98 VR4
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Walton C.
> Gibson
> > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 14:53
> > To: Team3s
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
> >
> >
> > > Considering the materials used in the manufacture of the
> > stock BOV, I don't think there is a definitive level in which
> > they "all" begin to leak, and would expect a large amount of
> > variation from one to the next.
> >
> > FWIW, I can take my stock BOV, put it to my lips, and blow
> > air through it.
> > It does leak that much. I'd hate to know what it did under full
> boost
> > before I
> > replaced it with the Greddy.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 10:45:00 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation/Missing at high boost (need diagnosis help)

I turned up the boost to 1.2 bar and I'm getting something that feels like
missing/backfire and severe hesitation. It almost feels like when I first
got the DSBC and had the plugs at original gap.

I filled up with 100 octane race gas and there is no knock at all. I'm
running ARC2, 720s, 357 Turbos, Ceramic Coated Pistons, Supra Fuel Pump,
Iridium Plugs gapped @ 32, Magnecor Wires, and all the usual goodies.

I reviewed the datalogger, and there does not seem to be a fuel cut ( a
sharp spike down on IDC during WOT) There was a spike down for the O2
levels during a WOT and I'm pretty sure there was the missing/hesitation
here. Arc2 settings seem OK at WOT with a strong .92-.94 O2 readings. I
was thinking of taking out the front three plugs and inspecting them. Any
ideas?? Should I regap the plugs to 30?? This makes me nervous because this
is a new rebuild and I expect the car to be running very strong.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 15:41:55 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation/Missing at high boost (need diagnosis help)

Hey Rich,

I highly recommend you inspect your plugs (as you already know, start with
the front 3 then if needed check the rear 3). In fact, I also highly
recommend you go back to the stock NGK plugs gapped at .030 to .032 - I'm not
familiar with the Iridium Plugs.

If that doesn't cure the problem, you may want to upgrade your stock ignition
(I'm assuming you still have the stock ignition).

just my .02 cents.......best of luck to ya.

Ahmed "AL-Crazy"

In a message dated 4/8/01 12:46:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
richfowler2@home.com writes:

> I turned up the boost to 1.2 bar and I'm getting something that feels like
> missing/backfire and severe hesitation. It almost feels like when I first
> got the DSBC and had the plugs at original gap.
>
> I filled up with 100 octane race gas and there is no knock at all. I'm
> running ARC2, 720s, 357 Turbos, Ceramic Coated Pistons, Supra Fuel Pump,
> Iridium Plugs gapped @ 32, Magnecor Wires, and all the usual goodies.
>
> I reviewed the datalogger, and there does not seem to be a fuel cut ( a
> sharp spike down on IDC during WOT) There was a spike down for the O2
> levels during a WOT and I'm pretty sure there was the missing/hesitation
> here. Arc2 settings seem OK at WOT with a strong .92-.94 O2 readings. I
> was thinking of taking out the front three plugs and inspecting them. Any
> ideas?? Should I regap the plugs to 30?? This makes me nervous because this
> is a new rebuild and I expect the car to be running very strong.
>