team3s
Saturday, April 7
2001
Volume 01 : Number
457
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 6 Apr 2001 16:26:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do you get the lights out? Got 'em!
Merritt:
Since
you brought up air scoops..
Been trying hard to find a way to get em on
our RX7-TT. Just doesnt seem
like theres enough room at all to get the
aliuminum hose to the rotor area
at all thru the suspension/steering
geometry.
Is it worth it to use 2" host instead of 3"? Then _maybe_
I could get
something in there that the movement of the tie rod wouldnt mess
up.
On Fri, 6 Apr 2001, Merritt wrote:
> OK, it's very easy, as
it turns out.
> First, you take out the inboard phillips screw, easily
reachable from the
> front grille.
> Then, using a long phillips
screwdriver, reach in through the intercooler
> grille opening and take
out the outboard screw.
> Finally, unscrew the height adjuster screw all
the way, and the sucker pops
> right out.
> Three phillips-head
screws, and that's all it takes.
>
> I took both of the lights
out, because I see a way to run brake scoops from
> there.
> I
think a big round black brake scoop looks a lot better than those dinky
>
driving lights anyway. All the rubes will be wondering what they are for.
>
> Speaking of useless, now that I see the air dam I can't help
but wonder why
> they went to all that trouble to shove a dinky piece of
sheet metal about
> 1-in. down into the air stream. Mine is gone now, into
the same box as
> those useless driving lights. Musta saved 3-4 lb.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/drivinglightless
>
> My
original question:
>
> I am trying to take out my front air
dam.
> There is one last bolt up near the right teeny tiny driving light.
> So I have to take the driving light out...now howinhell does that
sucker
> come out of there? I can see bolts and stuff way back up in
there, but
> you'd have to have a hand the size of a two-year old to get
in there.
> Actually, I can get a wrench on them to get them off, but I'd
never be able
> to put them back in.
> I know those driving lights
are absolutely useless pieces of junk so, if I
> have to, I'll take them
off and leave them off, but I'd rather not.
> Help.
>
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
I own a lotta cars. But in the best interests
of not having to continualy
edit this file to meet the needs of eight
specific lists, and no to awaken the
idiots within others who think -thier-
cars are the best and Im a fool for
having anything -but- thier kind of
car..I have not listed them. If Im on
the list you are reading..I have
one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 18:27:02
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How do you get the lights out? Got 'em!
> Speaking of
useless, now that I see the air dam I can't help
> but wonder why they
went to all that trouble to shove a
> dinky piece of sheet metal about
1-in. down into the air
> stream. Mine is gone now, into the same box as
those
> useless driving lights. Musta saved 3-4 lb.
Do you mean
the flap that hangs down from the air dam, right in line with
the transfer
case/transaxle interface? The flap is there because early cars
rusted
the splines off the tranny output shaft due to water and road grit
getting in
there - the flap prevents that stuff from flying up in there.
Might wanna
put that back on, if that's the one you are talking about....
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 19:16:03
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Interior Bubbles & Service manual section requests
I may
start offering these "Curestrips" again very soon, been really
busy with our
project car, and to tell you the truth, I have no more
room to setup these
and make more. We did get a new MIG welder, and it
works great, and I also
have some more materials left over, so maybe
in a few weeks... I could have
some made again. There are some
pictures on the www site at
http://www.ecanfix.com/users/doordoctor/
,
and also a "installation diagram" that shows how you can make your
own
if you wanted to.
The ones I installed in my car over 6 months ago
still look great, and
no more bubbles have appeared! (Yay!). I've asked
people if they look
out of place, or do they look like an OEM part... they
are like what
are you talking about? (which means it looks normal to them I
guess :)
Also, if anyone needs a section of the manual sent to them, or
put on
my samples section, just mail me your request! I often don't have
time
to read each digest as well as I would like to, and occaisionally
miss
these posts that ask for wiring, or other diagrams, and I am more
than
willing to help you out. There is already a lot of stuff under
the
samples section, so check it out if you want.
Thanks for looking
out for me guys/gals, you all make this enjoyable!
I hope to see some of you
at the DSM shootout!
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
>Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 15:59:18
-0400
>From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Interior Bubbles
>I thought Vineet Singh had a fancy way
of attaching a brass or
aluminum
>strip of metal down where the armrest
part meets the vertical part of
the
>door. He had some pictures
on his page
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 22:23:24
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Making an S bend
I have exhausted the parts departments of my
local Menard's, Payless
Cashways, hardware stores, industrial hose and tubing
places, etc. Either I
am not asking the right questions, or the world is full
of people who
simply do not understand the crying need for fabricating brake
ducts. I
have been through the plumbing, HVAC and gutter departments to
no avail
(although I had some success using gutter downspouts for a
while.) With
all those resources, the best brake duct scoop I can find
that will neck
down to 2.5 in. hose is still a McDonald's plastic
cup.
Here's the situation. I have a perfect place to mount a big round
brake
duct scoop in my grille. However, I have to connect the scoop to 2.5 to
3.0
in. tubing that makes an S or Z bend; that is, it must immediately go
90
deg down then 90 deg back. Something like
this:
\
\
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
air
in I
IIIIIII
I
/
I
IIIIIIIII
/
I air to
brakes
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
I thought finding a scoop was hard. Sheesh. Experience
tells me the perfect
solution is a very simple part, something that is
somehow staring me in the
face. Kinda like the McDonald's cup. Maybe a 3 in.
plumbing elbow or
flexible exhaust pipe or a vacuum cleaner part or the
left-handed
veeblefetzer off a potrezebie.
Anybody got any
ideas?
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 03:52:24
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Making an S bend
check your local hardware store for some
dryer ducting. they should also
have pipe size reducers for you.
or you could try PVC pipe... just a
suggestion that i hope will help
you out.
- --Kevin Umbreit
http://www15.brinkster.com/unclesam099>From:
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
opentracking@topica.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Making an S bend
>Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 22:23:24
-0500
>
>I have exhausted the parts departments of my local
Menard's, Payless
>Cashways, hardware stores, industrial hose and tubing
places, etc. Either I
>am not asking the right questions, or the world is
full of people who
>simply do not understand the crying need for
fabricating brake ducts. I
>have been through the plumbing, HVAC and
gutter departments to no avail
>(although I had some success using gutter
downspouts for a while.) With
>all those resources, the best brake
duct scoop I can find that will neck
>down to 2.5 in. hose is still a
McDonald's plastic cup.
>
>Here's the situation. I have a perfect
place to mount a big round brake
>duct scoop in my grille. However, I have
to connect the scoop to 2.5 to 3.0
>in. tubing that makes an S or Z bend;
that is, it must immediately go 90
>deg down then 90 deg back. Something
like this:
>
>\
> \
>
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
> air
in I
>
IIIIIII I
>
/
I
IIIIIIIII
>/
I air to
brakes
>
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
>
>I thought finding a scoop was hard. Sheesh.
Experience tells me the perfect
>solution is a very simple part, something
that is somehow staring me in the
>face. Kinda like the McDonald's cup.
Maybe a 3 in. plumbing elbow or
>flexible exhaust pipe or a vacuum cleaner
part or the left-handed
>veeblefetzer off a
potrezebie.
>
>Anybody got any ideas?
>
>Rich/94
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 23:59:45
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Making an S bend
What about that ~make your own exhaust~ type
bendable stuff? It seems like
that would be a little more rigid than
dryer ducting, and more flexible than
PVC????
- -Cody
#check
your local hardware store for some dryer ducting. they should
also
#have pipe size reducers for you. or you could try PVC
pipe... just a
#suggestion that i hope will help you
out.
#
#--Kevin
Umbreit
#http://www15.brinkster.com/unclesam099
#
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 00:11:02
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Making an S bend
At 11:59 PM 4/6/01 -0500, cody
wrote:
>What about that ~make your own exhaust~ type bendable stuff?
It seems like
>that would be a little more rigid than dryer ducting, and
more flexible than
>PVC????
>
The problem is, I am trying to go
from where the driving lights used to be.
I have to go straight down and then
straight back, and there is not a lot
of room. Anything that has a big bend
radius - like exhaust pipe - probably
won't work.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 00:57:48
-0500
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Making an S bend
ROFL, and I would think this to be such a
simple task (J/K) :)... I think
the clothes dryer exhaust ducting should
work, you can get it in plastic or
some aluminized plastic stuff. The other
thing that I can think of would be
a replacement hose for the vacuum cleaners
you pay 50 cents to clean out the
car. Also what about a radiator hose? I've
seen some of those that bend in a
110-120 degree bend ... I think it was in a
Jeep Cherokee .... OH and what
about the old heat riser ducting that used to
go on the old Chevy motors ..
the ones with the big round air cleaner holder
and the "snoot" that was on
the driver side .. as I recall that was about 2.5
inches and really
flexible.
Eric 92 VR4 in major need of a tune
up
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 12:11 AM
To: cody; Kevin
Umbreit; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Making an S bend
At 11:59 PM
4/6/01 -0500, cody wrote:
>What about that ~make your own exhaust~ type
bendable stuff? It seems like
>that would be a little more rigid
than dryer ducting, and more flexible
than
>PVC????
>
The
problem is, I am trying to go from where the driving lights used to be.
I
have to go straight down and then straight back, and there is not a lot
of
room. Anything that has a big bend radius - like exhaust pipe -
probably
won't work.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 01:02:22
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Making an S bend
At 12:57 AM 4/7/01 -0500, Eric Cheek
wrote:
>ROFL, and I would think this to be such a simple task (J/K) :)...
I think
>the clothes dryer exhaust ducting should work, you can get it in
plastic or
>some aluminized plastic stuff.
Might be too big.
The other thing that I can think of would be
>a replacement
hose for the vacuum cleaners you pay 50 cents to clean out the
>car.
Home vacuum cleaner hose is way too small and the big hose on my big
'ol
shop vac won't make the bend.
Also what about a radiator hose?
I've seen some of those that bend in a
>110-120 degree bend
I
never thought of radiator hose. Hmmm.
... I think it was in a Jeep
Cherokee .... OH and what
>about the old heat riser ducting that used to
go on the old Chevy motors ..
>the ones with the big round air cleaner
holder and the "snoot" that was on
>the driver side .. as I recall that
was about 2.5 inches and really
>flexible.
You mean that flexible
silver stuff? I have a length of that type of hose
that I've tried to use
before. It just never seems to want to cooperate.
Believe me when I say I've
tried just about everything in the way of hoses,
ducts, scoops, intakes, you
name it.
I REALLY like the radiator hose idea. Thanks. If some parts
store would
just let me snoop around...
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 01:13:53
-0500
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when cold
OK, what is "cold temp" ? MY 92
VR4 majorly hesitates under boost conditions
until it reaches normal
operating temps. It always has. So my question is
how long do you have to
drive it till you can boost normally ? I have .2
miles of dirt road to
traverse before hitting the nice pavement (really
curvy and hilly running
beside the lake). I usually have to get to the 2nd
set of double back curves
before I can lay into the turbo's .. about 1.5
miles of black top at 35 MPH
(the posted speed limit)So that's about 7
minutes of warm up time (drive
really slow on the dirt road don't want any
dust or rattles :)...... ) Once
the temp reads about 1/4 up the scale it
boosts pretty good, and once it hits
about the half way mark he he welp she
goes .......
Hope that
helps,
Eric 92 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Watkins, Jim
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 12:41 PM
To: 'Team3S
(E-mail)'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when cold
I had
a BC installed previously. When I removed it, I returned everything
to
stock except the plug gap. I think the gap is not contributing
anything
to the problem. The car runs perfectly after reaching
operating
temperature. The issue is that there is a hesitation in boost
when the
engine is cold. I believe the same problem existed when the BC
was
installed in this car. I now have the BC in another car and there
is no
problem at cold temp in that car and the plugs are gapped to .032 as
well.
Jim
91-VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darc
[mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 10:27 AM
To: 'Team3S
(E-mail)'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when cold
Why
have you gapped at .032 if you are not running a BC? Was the problem
apparent
at higher gap? When you regaled, did you do (or not do) something
in that
reinstallation, particularly the tricky back bank, that might be
have
contributed to the problem?
Darc
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
To:
"'Team3S (E-mail)'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when
cold
> Let me try this question once again:
> > My
91-VR4 does not want to boost when the engine is still warming up
to
> > normal operating temperature. There is a hesitation,
almost a stumble
and
> > then the boost kicks in. After warm
up, the boost is immediate and
> > strong. No mods were made to
the stock configuration except the plugs
are
> > gapped to
.032. Any ideas?
> >
> > Jim
> >
91-VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 09:18:36
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Transfer
case combinations
Hi,
Is it possible to use the stronger 95+
transfer case in combination with a 5 speed (93) gearbox if you use a propeller
shaft from a 6 speed?
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 09:04:08
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
With all of the talk about how
bad the stock BOV is, have to agree with Jeff
on this. I've been
boosting up to 18 psi for 2 yrs. My original BOV has
always worked
fine. In the mean time, I'll find something more usefull
to
upgrade.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
> And no I haven't done
this. I replaced the stock BOV with the GReddy
> Type-S because I like the
pretty purple top. :) I didn't really have
> a problem with the
stocker.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 08:32:32
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Making an S bend
The key here is probably to make what you need --- hobby
stores sell ABS
plastic in various sizes and thicknesses and It's easy to
work with. You can
cut it with a saw or just scribe it and break it, you can
heat it and bend it then
let it cool and it'll retain it's shape. You glue it
with ABS cement [ any hardware
store ], hold it in place somehow for an hour
and it's done.
In your case it sounds like you need an 'S' shaped box
---- just a bunch of
straight cuts and some glue. The attached picture
shows how easy it was
to bend and glue a piece of trim. For ducting you would
proably need to
reinforce the edges etc. but as I said it's easy to work with
and it's cheap if
you screw it up.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
I have exhausted the parts departments of my local Menard's, Payless
>
Cashways, hardware stores, industrial hose and tubing places, etc. Either
I
> am not asking the right questions, or the world is full of people
who
> simply do not understand the crying need for fabricating brake
ducts. I
> >
> Here's the situation. I have a perfect
place to mount a big round brake
> duct scoop in my grille. However, I
have to connect the scoop to 2.5 to 3.0
> in. tubing that makes an S or Z
bend; that is, it must immediately go 90
> deg down then 90 deg back.
Something like this:
-
------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C0BF3D.49F6DF80
Content-Type:
image/jpeg;
name="momowheel3.jpg"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
base64
Content-Disposition:
attachment;
filename="momowheel3.jpg"
--------------unreadable code
snipped--------------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 10:33:16
-0500
From: RK Sales & Consultants <
rksales@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: team3s V1 #454
I have a 92 r/t twin stealth. One turbo is
smoking really bad. Huge clouds of white smoke (oil,
I presume).
Anyone have an idea what it takes to fix? Can it be repaired or does it
have to be
replaced?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 11:43:34
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stop Making S bends
Thanks to everyone who responded to my plea
for help.
I bet everybody else on the list is getting bored with this topic
by now,
so let's take it off list.
If anyone has any more helpful
suggestions, contact me directly at:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netRich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 12:08:16
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Making an S bend
I have seen some flexible after market hose
replacement products,
that might work.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday,
April 06, 2001 9:23 PM
To:
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Making an S bend
I have exhausted the parts departments of my
local Menard's, Payless
Cashways, hardware stores, industrial hose and tubing
places, etc. Either I
am not asking the right questions, or the world is full
of people who
simply do not understand the crying need for fabricating brake
ducts. I
have been through the plumbing, HVAC and gutter departments to
no avail
(although I had some success using gutter downspouts for a
while.) With
all those resources, the best brake duct scoop I can find
that will neck
down to 2.5 in. hose is still a McDonald's plastic
cup.
Here's the situation. I have a perfect place to mount a big round
brake
duct scoop in my grille. However, I have to connect the scoop to 2.5 to
3.0
in. tubing that makes an S or Z bend; that is, it must immediately go
90
deg down then 90 deg back. Something like
this:
\
\
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
air
in I
IIIIIII
I
/
I
IIIIIIIII
/
I air to
brakes
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
I thought finding a scoop was hard. Sheesh. Experience
tells me the perfect
solution is a very simple part, something that is
somehow staring me in the
face. Kinda like the McDonald's cup. Maybe a 3 in.
plumbing elbow or
flexible exhaust pipe or a vacuum cleaner part or the
left-handed
veeblefetzer off a potrezebie.
Anybody got any
ideas?
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 12:07:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: team3s V1 #454
If it turns out to be a turbo, our stock
turbos can be rebuilt. You
may also consider upgrading to a 13G or 15G turbo.
They are direct
replacements but do require fuel upgrades in order take
full
advantage of them. I list many shops on my Turbo Upgrade web
page
that will either rebuild your turbos to stock specs, upgrade
yours,
or sell you new turbos.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "RK Sales & Consultants" <
rksales@flash.net>
Cc: <
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 07, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re: team3s V1 #454
I
have a 92 r/t twin stealth. One turbo is smoking really bad.
Huge
clouds of white smoke (oil, I presume). Anyone have an idea what
it
takes to fix? Can it be repaired or does it have to
be
replaced?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 15:15:38
-0400
From: "Paul Smith" <
pauldavidsmith@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Update on Transmission Problems
I had my first transmission on my
93 3000GT replaced at 70000 miles in 1997.
At first the dealership asked me
to pay $7000, I told them I would have to
look at my options like lawyers,
nhtsa, better business bureau, attorney
generals office etc, interesting
enough the next morning before I called
anyone they called me to say that
they agreed to cover the whole thing. Now
its 2001 my Mitsubishi 300GT
VR4 has 139,000 miles on it. I have read the
digest and have seen
updates on the getrag transmissions going back several
years, availability of
parts, etc. What is the latest on this subject? Was
this defect
found in the closet along with all the other defect Mitsubishi
locked away?
What does Mitsubishi say now? Are parts or rebuilts
now
available? Any current information on this subject would be
helpful. Thanks
Paul Smith
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 20:13:18
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Big Problem
ok guys, here goes:
i changed my plugs/wires on my
'91 DOHC non turbo about 2 months ago. i
used NGK (OEM) and NGK
wires. gapped to .044, new gaskets on the plenum and
throttle
body. i cleaned out the plenum with carb cleaner and the throttle
body
as well, being careful not to get anything into the openings. i
cleaned out the intake manifold and i was going to pull the injectors to
polish the fuel rails (pulled the injectors out of the manifold but didn't
do anything else). i was going to take the manifold off the car, but i
decided not to. i just used a towel with cleaner on it and wiped it
out.
when i put it all back together, it ran (and still runs) like
crap. a rough
idle, hesitation, won't rev as quickly as it did, and
when it hits 6k RPMs,
there is a loud noise coming from the engine and is
almost like fuel
cut--doesn't want to acclerate at all and quits
pulling.
i took it to a garage to have the ignition checked. it's
fine. then i took
it to conicelli mitsu and they diagnosed that i need
a new TPS and O2
sensor. i put a new O2 sensor in today and it didn't
do anything. i had a
pocketlogger that i plugged into the car to make
sure the O2 sensor was
reading ok. it was but it read that there was
26 degrees of timing. is
this what it could be? i didn't touch
the timing at all. please help me!!!
i miss my
acceleration.
- --Kevin Umbreit
http://www15.brinkster.com/unclesam099***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 21:43:58
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Problem
I did double check all of the wires and they're
written right next to the
coil packs. i did make sure today that the
crank angle sensor wiring
harness was indeed plugged in correctly and it
was. it is a huge mystery to
me.
- --Kevin
Umbreit
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 18:42:00
-0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Window Problem
My passanger side power window stopped
working and it is stuck down and i
need to fix the problem or atleast get it
up. I can not control it from
the driver or passanger side, but the
door locks do work. The light
that illuminates the window/locks on the
passanger side buttons is also
not working, so I think its just a electrical
connection somewhere. Any
help would be great.
Thanks!!
Matt
94' Stealth R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 16:46:24
-0700
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Power Window Problem
Make sure the Window Lock switch (next to
the window switches on the
driver's door) isn't on. I know, it sounds
stupid, but once I wasted
2 hours troubleshooting that same problem, until I
traced it down to
having accidently set that switch! D'OH!
:-)
Matthew Hull wrote:
>
> My passanger side power window
stopped working and it is stuck down and i
> need to fix the problem or
atleast get it up. I can not control it from
> the driver or
passanger side, but the door locks do work. The light
> that
illuminates the window/locks on the passanger side buttons is also
> not
working, so I think its just a electrical connection somewhere.
Any
> help would be great. Thanks!!
>
> Matt
>
94' Stealth R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#457
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