team3s
Friday, April 6
2001
Volume 01 : Number
456
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 5 Apr 2001 17:25:12 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 6 Speed Tranny
What do you mean by the "tranny has started
slipping"? That sounds more
like the CLUTCH is
slipping.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John
Stegall III [SMTP:fenix@mailroom.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001
4:27 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 6 Speed Tranny
>
> The tranny on my 94 VR-4 has
started slipping and I think its going to go
> soon. I've checked
out a few places for used trannies and have managed to
> find them for
about $3000. I was wondering before that though, if any
> work can
be done to the 6 speed trannies. I know the 5 speeds from 1st
> gens
can be partially rebuilt and worked on. Was wondering if there are
>
any tranny shops that can rebuild our trannies, or possibly if anyone
has
> looked into replacing our trannies with those off another
car.
> I spoke with Getrag reps about it and
as of current they had little
> to say other than they made nothing for
new cars that could be used in our
> cars. They did however mention
that 4th gen Eclipses, ETA 2004, may be a
> solution. That Mitsu is
working on twin turboing the 6 cyl. eclipses and
> having getrag build the
trannies again (or possibly doing it on their
> own). Does anyone
know anything more about that? Or if there is another
> possible
replacement tranny... or if anyone is even looking into it? I
> know
that was a deluge of questions, thanks in advance for any answers...
>
especially anything more about 4th gen eclipses (new replacement
>
parts...).
>
> ------------
> "If you stand all the women in
the world upside down with their legs
> split, they'd all look the
same."
> John
> 1994 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 20:35:10
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
Now I think I understand
better. Is there anything in the service manual
that will help me
understand how all this complicated stuff works ?
After installing the
Greddy BOV, I had thought that it allowed the boost
gauge to go higher than
the top, 14.
But, after putting the stock BOV back to do a comparison, I
noticed that it
also allowed the boost to go slightly past 14 (top of the
gauge).
I guess It was just that the Greddy allowed the boost to increase
that much
faster, so it just surprised me.
Next week, I am going to
try and put the Greddy back in, and mount it a
little better. I want to
make sure it doesn't move.
Thanks guys for all the help and
clarification
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 12:53:06
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
Hi all
When my 13g
turbos were fitted they would only hold 13psi at 7000 rpm.I then
fitted the
dragsport bov, still 13psi at redline. After careful adjustment,
trial &
error I now have 15psi boost at 7000rpm. Adjustment at idle is not
sufficient
because there is nowhere near as much vacuum on the
operating
line at idle as there is when closing the throttle at part or
full boost.
Steve Cooper
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 17:53:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield, Hawk, Motul Group Buy FRAUD???
All will be
happy to know the last set of brake pads went out this
afternoon. I'm
sorry I was not able to address the list sooner. Due
to some bad timing
delivery took longer than expected, I hope
everyone will forgive the
delays. We should be settled into the new
shop by the end of the
month.
Enjoy,
Casey Rayman
CTC Motorsports
Dallas,
TX
972.575.7473
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 21:17:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
> Now I think I understand
better. Is there anything in the
> service manual that will help me
understand how all this
> complicated stuff works ?
The Technical
Manual on Jeff's sweet website is a great primer to how all
the systems on
the car interact.
http://www.stealth316.com> After
installing the Greddy BOV, I had thought that it
> allowed the boost gauge
to go higher than the top, 14.
Higher than the top, "14"? Are you
talking about the stock boost gauge? If
so, you can't use that gauge to
tell ANYTHING as far as boost is concerned.
It is a total guesstimate, and
the more modifications you make to the car
the more inaccurate it gets.
Get a real boost gauge before making any more
modifications so you can
accurately judge how your modifications are
affecting boost.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 23:09:39
-0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dan@3sxperts.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3SX
ERL goup buy
Thanks to all of those that participated in the group buy on
the Aquamist
System 1S and 2S group buy from 3SX. The units have been ordered
from ERL
and will ship within the next week or so. We will turn them around
to our
customers as soon as we receive them.
Currently we have Eibach
and Intraxx lowering springs and Fidanza aluminum
flywheels on group buys for
the month of April.
Pleas email privately if you are interested at
dan@3sxperts.comThanks and sorry for
the spam,
Dan Mecier
3SX Automotive Technologies
www.3Sxperts.com1994 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 05:22:47
-0000
From: "Susan ." <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 wiring diagram
Anyone have a wiring diagram for a '91
VR4? Particularly relevant to the
mass airflow sensor connector
wiring...
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 03:00:22
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Veilside input
Any team 3S members
have experience with Veilside body kits? If so,
Do they get the seal of
approval? Also, Anyone who could approximate the
installation and
painting costs would be greatly appreciated...
All the
Best,
Scott
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 06:17:30
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
As the masual states, I
connected a hand vacuum pump to the top nipple.
It began leaking between
10 and 11 psi.
Dan J
94 Stealth TT
>>> Jeff Lucius
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com> -
4/5/01 1:02 PM >>>
Now were you guys blowing into the main opening
*and* the little pipe
on top? The BOV is designed to work on pressure
differential. So when
you blow only into the big main opening you are
duplicating the case
where the Y-pipe has more pressure than the plenum. The
BOV does just
what it's supposed to do in this situation - "leak"! Try
your
experiments again, but apply pressure to both openings.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To:
"'Team3s'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 05, 2001 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust
Greddy BOV
I've done that with stock BOV's from different TT's. I
haven't found
a stock BOV yet that I couldn't blow air through with my mouth.
Plastic pieces of crap.
Michael
98 VR4
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Walton C.
Gibson
>
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 14:53
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>
>
> > Considering
the materials used in the manufacture of the
> stock BOV, I don't think
there is a definitive level in which
> they "all" begin to leak, and would
expect a large amount of
> variation from one to the next.
>
>
FWIW, I can take my stock BOV, put it to my lips, and blow
> air through
it.
> It does leak that much. I'd hate to know what it did under
full
boost
> before I
> replaced it with the
Greddy.
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 08:41:55
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: BFG
Comp T/A R1 clearance at Tirerack.
Just an FYI to those interested.
For example: 245/45/17 are $120.
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 06:44:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
Remember that what we are
calling on our cars a blow-off valve (BOV)
is really a compressor by-pass
valve.
"Our BOV has nothing to do with boost levels,
******
unless it is leaking ******."
A properly functioning and non-leaking BOV
will remain closed within
its **mechanical limits** when we are "boosting".
The BOV (as used on our cars) is not designed to open at a
particular
boost level. But it probably is designed to leak at some boost
level.
Clever Mitsu. :)
Our BOV is designed to open when there is a
pressure difference on
either side of the throttle plate. This occurs when
you let off on
the throttle pedal.
I list about 100 links to
technical articles on the Tech Page at my
web site. The following one goes
into little detail on by-pass valves
and compressor valves.
http://www.turbobricks.org/cbv_bov.htmlThis
article does have some problems as it describes a by-pass valve
actually
by-passing the turbo somehow. Nonsense on our cars. All air
that enters the
intake track goes through the turbos. All our stock
"BOV" can do is route air
out of the Y-pipe and back into the intake
track before the turbos (but after
the MAS if one is installed). And,
again, this is designed to occur when the
Y-pipe air pressure is
greater than the plenum air pressure. Air moves from
high to low
pressure, so the air moves out of the Y-pipe.
At some
boost level, the pressure inside the "BOV" forces air to go
around the piston
or diaphragm or seal (whatever is used) and we call
this "leaking". It is not
the boost pushing on the spring (or piston,
etc.) as there is pressure on
**both** sides. My GReddy Type-S will
"leak" also at some boost level,
hopefully higher than the stock BOV
limit. It looks like the DSM valve you
are using has a higher "leak"
limit than the stock one you were
using.
Hope that helps,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 05, 2001 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust
Greddy BOV
so if "our BOV has nothing to do with boost", how does the
rest of
your explanation of function follow?
Aren't you saying that the
maximum boost level that can be maintained
is affected by the pressure that
the BOV opens?
Honestly, this doesn't make sense to me. I just know that
when I
swapped my stock BOV for a DSM BOV I got an immediate change of 1
psi
in the boost level without any change to the setting of my
manual
boost controller. I attribute that to a different (higher)
operning
pressure. Where am I getting confused?
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 12:31
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>
> Our BOV
has nothing to do with boost levels, unless it is leaking.
>
> The
BOV action occurs when the pressure on the plenum side of the
> throttle
body is less than the pressure on the Y-pipe side of the
TB
> by some
set amount. The BOV adjustment is to set the pressure
> difference amount
that triggers the BOV to release air from the
> Y-pipe back into the
intake track just after the MAS (or to the
> atmosphere if you have that
type).
>
> Adjust the GReddy BOV too "light" and the slightest
lift of the
pedal
> will start the air recycling. Adjust it too "stiff"
and the air
will
> recycle only at high pressure differences (such as
very quick
closing
> of the throttle plate). The only way I could
adjust my GReddy BOV
was
> to drive around and see what happened. No
boost guage is needed.
>
> For what its worth to you guys
considering a BOV upgrade, leaving
the
> stock BOV alone is an
excellent idea unless you have upgraded your
> fuel system. The stock BOV
tends to "leak" around 14-15 psi, thus
> helping to limit boost to a safe
level with the stock fuel
injectors
> and pump. Of course, aftermarket
BOVs can produce a very neat
sound.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 08:48:20
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BFG Comp T/A R1 clearance at Tirerack.
More specifically it is the comp
T/A g-force R1.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 15:50:31
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Interesting link
Hi,
This is a very interesting link (IMHO),
especially the handling and suspension section. I strongly recommend you to
check it out.
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/lancia/58/technical_school/tech_index.htm/Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 08:50:56
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Heatcycling tires at Tirerack
Hello all,
According to the
TireRacks sales lit. it is the greatest thing since sliced
bread. How
does it work in reality - does it really help the life of the
tire?
Does it eliminate the need to work the tires at the track?
I am asking
because I ordered mine this way, and after receiving them
I'm
skeptical. They arrived less than 48 hours after ordering (I live
in MN)
and the stickers were fully intact. It seems to me that if the
tire was
being worked to the point where heat was reaching the core of the
tire, the
labels would take a beating.
Thanks for any
input,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 15:34:59
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
I think we told this
million times :
The stock BOV (correct : bypass valve) MUST leak as it
has a small hole
(about 3 mm) inside. This provides a smoother operation as
it is a small
"compensator" and eliminates the behaviour of a too fast or
slow
opening/closing valve. So everyone that blows inside the hole will
think
that there is a leak and he's right. And this is absolutely
correct.
When blowing with the mouth into the intake, I doubt that one
can do this
with the necessary pressure that would open the
valve.
Over the years, the stock valves inside spring becomes weaker and
therefore
the valve may start to leak as the spring-pressure
+manifold-pressure
become less then the y-pipe pressure. This can be
calculated as the
pressure (kg/cm2) is higher on the valve-plate as on the
small actuating
pipe connected to the manifold.
>Now were you guys
blowing into the main opening *and* the little pipe
>on top? The BOV is
designed to work on pressure differential. So when
>you blow only into the
big main opening you are duplicating the case
>where the Y-pipe has more
pressure than the plenum. The BOV does just
>what it's supposed to do in
this situation - "leak"! Try your
>experiments again, but apply pressure
to both openings.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 07:04:01
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Interesting link
Mikael,
Great link! I think this
would be a good primer for newcomers to the list who have little
experience/knowledge with the mechanics/theory behind automotive
science...
That, and of course Mr. Lucius' page(s), are quite
informative!
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
San Jose, Ca
>>> "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se> - 4/6/01 6:50 AM
>>>
Hi,
This is a very interesting link (IMHO), especially
the handling and suspension section. I strongly recommend you to check it
out.
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/lancia/58/technical_school/tech_index.htm/Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:12:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
The manual states (page 11-9
in file dsc.pdf on the manuals on cd) to
apply **negative** pressure, or a
vacuum as we say, to the nipple
(little pipe) on the BOV. The BOV should
start to open at 400 mm Hg
(16 in Hg, or 7.7 psi using the handy unit
converter on my web site).
Now I'm not sure what you mean by "leak".
Since the BOV is supposed
to open when you apply vacuum at the nipple why are
you saying
"leak"?
If the BOV didn't open till 10+ psi (517+ mm Hg) of
**vacuum** then
that means it is a little out of spec and stays closed longer
than it
should, possibly causing extra wear on the turbo.
If you are
applying **pressure** to the nipple and none to the main
opening then this is
a condition that the BOV was not designed for
nor would it encounter when
mounted properly in our cars.
To test to see if our BOV leaks, then the
same **pressure** (not
vacuum) must be applied to both the main opening (that
connects to
the Y-pipe) and to the nipple (that connects to the plenum). Air
will
"leak" through the opening that connects to the intake hose.
And
no I haven't done this. I replaced the stock BOV with the GReddy
Type-S
because I like the pretty purple top. :) I didn't really have
a problem with
the stocker.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Daniel Jett" <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust
Greddy BOV
As the masual states, I connected a hand vacuum pump to
the top
nipple.
It began leaking between 10 and 11 psi.
Dan
J
94 Stealth TT
>>> Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com> - 4/5/01
1:02 PM >>>
Now were you guys blowing into the main opening *and*
the little pipe
on top? The BOV is designed to work on pressure differential.
So when
you blow only into the big main opening you are duplicating the
case
where the Y-pipe has more pressure than the plenum. The BOV does
just
what it's supposed to do in this situation - "leak"! Try
your
experiments again, but apply pressure to both openings.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 09:11:18
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heatcycling tires at Tirerack
>
>According to the
TireRacks sales lit. it is the greatest thing since sliced
>bread.
How does it work in reality - does it really help the life of
the
>tire? Does it eliminate the need to work the tires at the
track?
Yes. You can do it yourself, if you are willing to spend about two
hours of
your time and 100 miles of road wear (one hour to heat cycle them,
then one
hour to take them off the car and replace them with street
wheels)
>
>I am asking because I ordered mine this way, and after
receiving them I'm
>skeptical. They arrived less than 48 hours after
ordering (I live in MN)
>and the stickers were fully intact. It
seems to me that if the tire was
>being worked to the point where heat was
reaching the core of the tire, the
>labels would take a
beating.
Tire Rack is usually pretty good, but I caught them charging me
for shaved
tires when the little tits were still there. I raised hell, and
they said
they would give me a credit for it, but the Kuhmos wore badly
because they
were not shaved, so it still cost me a bundle. I think I'd give
'em a call
and ask what's up. Maybe they just warm them up in an oven, and
don't
actually run the tire.
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 07:30:51
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
Jeff,
Good points.
I guess I should have checked my conversions, and it brings to light that there
might have been other forces at work when I did my BOV swap.
Like I said
in an earlier post, I did notice a power increase (seat of the pants, I know)
when I put the Greddy type S in. I assumed at that point that my stock BOV must
have been leaking, although I also did part throttle lifts with the stock and
could hear the stock valve actuating sooner than the Greddy unit, as I have it
set.
Again, apart from all of this, as I stated earlier I find it hard to
believe that the stock BOV on ALL cars will hold boost to 14 psi, mostly due to
the materials used, though you are correct that unless there is a closed
throttle position (thus a pressure difference) that it should matter.
I'm just glad we don't drive Saab's, with a real pop-off
valve!
DJ
>>> Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com> - 4/6/01
7:12 AM >>>
The manual states (page 11-9 in file dsc.pdf on the
manuals on cd) to
apply **negative** pressure, or a vacuum as we say, to the
nipple
(little pipe) on the BOV. The BOV should start to open at 400 mm
Hg
(16 in Hg, or 7.7 psi using the handy unit converter on my web
site).
Now I'm not sure what you mean by "leak". Since the BOV is
supposed
to open when you apply vacuum at the nipple why are you
saying
"leak"?
If the BOV didn't open till 10+ psi (517+ mm Hg) of
**vacuum** then
that means it is a little out of spec and stays closed longer
than it
should, possibly causing extra wear on the turbo.
If you are
applying **pressure** to the nipple and none to the main
opening then this is
a condition that the BOV was not designed for
nor would it encounter when
mounted properly in our cars.
To test to see if our BOV leaks, then the
same **pressure** (not
vacuum) must be applied to both the main opening (that
connects to
the Y-pipe) and to the nipple (that connects to the plenum). Air
will
"leak" through the opening that connects to the intake hose.
And
no I haven't done this. I replaced the stock BOV with the GReddy
Type-S
because I like the pretty purple top. :) I didn't really have
a problem with
the stocker.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Daniel Jett" <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust
Greddy BOV
As the masual states, I connected a hand vacuum pump to
the top
nipple.
It began leaking between 10 and 11 psi.
Dan
J
94 Stealth TT
>>> Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com> - 4/5/01
1:02 PM >>>
Now were you guys blowing into the main opening *and*
the little pipe
on top? The BOV is designed to work on pressure differential.
So when
you blow only into the big main opening you are duplicating the
case
where the Y-pipe has more pressure than the plenum. The BOV does
just
what it's supposed to do in this situation - "leak"! Try
your
experiments again, but apply pressure to both openings.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:38:52
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Heatcycling tires at Tirerack
The following link from the Tire Rack tech
tips section describes the heat
cycle operation ---- The inflated tire is run
between rollers and no heat is
added ---- I would suspect that the operation
was not done.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/heatcycletech.htm
Jim Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Oskar <
osk@mediaone.net>
To: Team3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 6:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Heatcycling tires at
Tirerack
> Hello all,
>
> According to the TireRacks
sales lit. it is the greatest thing since sliced
> bread. How does
it work in reality - does it really help the life of the
> tire?
Does it eliminate the need to work the tires at the track?
>
> I am
asking because I ordered mine this way, and after receiving them I'm
>
skeptical. They arrived less than 48 hours after ordering (I live in
MN)
> and the stickers were fully intact. It seems to me that if the
tire was
> being worked to the point where heat was reaching the core of
the tire, the
> labels would take a beating.
>
> Thanks for
any input,
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:41:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>> Again, apart from
all of this, as I stated earlier
>> I find it hard to believe that the
stock BOV on ALL
>> cars will hold boost to 14 psi, ...
I agree.
Sorry if I implied that all stock BOVs performed the same.
It was meant to be
just an average sort of number from what people
commonly report.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Jett" <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust
Greddy BOV
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 09:51:00
-0500
From: Danny Melton <
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Problems, very strange!
-
--=====================_64147078==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
First, let me apologize for the length
of this post, and my rambling. I am
trying to explain things as thorough as
I can and it can be kind of long.
Okay, this is kinda weird. My car is
totally back together now. My mechanic
has inspected everything, and re-ran
all my vacuum lines.
I get the car back and according to the AutoMeter boost
gauge, I am
boosting at about 7psi.
I un-hook the two vacuum lines that
control the waste-gates (DUMB, normally
you would overBOOST!) and I am still
boosting at 7psi.
I then unplugged the last vacuum line on the Y-pipe before
the throttle
body (black w/red ends) and I hit about 14-15psi EASY before I
get off of it.
Here's my theory. The last vacuum line on the Y-pipe goes
down to a
connecter behind the intake. One of the two vacuum lines that goes
to the
waste-gate solenoid comes off this connecter. I (think) know that it
takes
boost pressure to open the waste-gates after the computer "does its
thing"
(whatever that may be). SO, if you disconnect the two vacuum lines
from the
waste-gate solenoid, then one bleeds to the air and the other gets
no
reading, so you will keep building boost until (a) the waste-gates open
(which never happens), (b) the engine blows, or (c) the turbos max out. In
my case, the second hose, never gets a reading, so you would thing that I
would over-boost because the waste-gates wouldn't open. BUT I think the
first hose (the one branching off the connecter that the line from the
Y-pipe connects to) is clogged; AND, since there is no vacuum leak,
the
max boost I can hit is the boost set my the computer. If I remember
correctly, I heard the computer will let you boost to 7psi and then the
waste-gate solenoid on the firewall takes over.
Does anybody have a
clue what is wrong with my boost? Granted, the car is
still fast and fun
w/7psi but 13-14psi would be sooo much more fun.
Any help will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Danny Melton
'91 3000gt VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 16:45:23
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>Now I'm not sure what you
mean by "leak". Since the BOV is supposed
>to open when you apply vacuum
at the nipple why are you saying
>"leak"?
Jeff is right when states
to apply vacuum against the ambient when testing
or lessThe stock valve has
a HOLE in it... and holes obviously leak :-)
>If you are applying
**pressure** to the nipple and none to the main
>opening then this is a
condition that the BOV was not designed for
>nor would it encounter when
mounted properly in our cars.
True !
>To test to see if our BOV
leaks, then the same **pressure** (not
>vacuum) must be applied to both
the main opening (that connects to
>the Y-pipe) and to the nipple (that
connects to the plenum). Air will
>"leak" through the opening that
connects to the intake hose.
Again and again, there is a hole in it ...
it WILL LEAK ... guys, no
discussion necessary the thing is designed to leak
with a great small hole
in it !!!!!
>And no I haven't done this. I
replaced the stock BOV with the GReddy
>Type-S because I like the pretty
purple top. :)
Me too :)
> I didn't really have
>a
problem with the stocker.
"Whooooooop" after playing with other parts
-> Greddy installed. No other
issue :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 11:33:58
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Racing harnesses in a VR-4
I need a response to my question of
where to place some racing harnesses in
my car? I am having trouble
getting the small triangular plate into the
small channel where the rear seat
belts tie to near the outside of the car
and am wondering if it is easier to
drill new holes and attach these through
some plates.
Is it advisable
to attach anything to the crossbrace member that goes from
the strut tower to
strut tower?
I know I need Grade 8 hardware to pass the safety check of
the local PCA
(and it is advised by the manufacturer also) but does anyone
have harnesses
in their car? Does anyone know how a "Clip-in" set of
hardware will fit in
the car?
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 09:40:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
a nissan altima smoked me
Help! This is very humiliating!
I
know our cars are heavy, and I do have a subwoofer box in the back
that
weighs in at another 40-50lbs, and 1st gear is always a little sluggish
it seems, but jeez!
I'm seriously contemplating getting a PC Dyno
unit so I can get some hard
factual data on what any tune-ups and mods give
in the way of performance.
Every aftermarket part out there claims to add 15
HP! At this time, I'm
completely stock.
Dave
'91 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 17:01:54
-0000
From: "Susan ." <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Formula 1 team engineers
I'm entertaining 8 Formula 1 racing team
engineers from the UK this weekend
who are on a tour of the US meeting with
NASA tech transfer offices on
lightweight materials, propulsion technology,
etc. They'd like to get ahold
of a wiring diagram for my VR4 to check out a
mass airflow sensor wiring
issue (just for fun since I've been a great
host!). Anyone who may have
access to or know how I could obtain such
a diagram would be well
appreciated. If you can get yourself to the
UK, a tour a Formula 1 design
facility may be in order for the provider of
this info!
The Coswell team engineer races street cars in his spare time,
and would
likely entertain any questions if you send them to
me...
Thanks for any help on the diagram -
Susan
'91
VR4
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 10:03:01
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation on boost when cold
Let me try this question once
again:
> My 91-VR4 does not want to boost when the engine is still
warming up to
> normal operating temperature. There is a hesitation,
almost a stumble and
> then the boost kicks in. After warm up, the
boost is immediate and
> strong. No mods were made to the stock
configuration except the plugs are
> gapped to .032. Any
ideas?
>
> Jim
> 91-VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 10:26:50
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hesitation on boost when cold
Why have you gapped at .032 if you are not
running a BC? Was the problem
apparent at higher gap? When you regaled, did
you do (or not do) something
in that reinstallation, particularly the tricky
back bank, that might be
have contributed to the
problem?
Darc
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Watkins,
Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
To:
"'Team3S (E-mail)'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when
cold
> Let me try this question once again:
> > My
91-VR4 does not want to boost when the engine is still warming up
to
> > normal operating temperature. There is a hesitation,
almost a stumble
and
> > then the boost kicks in. After warm
up, the boost is immediate and
> > strong. No mods were made to
the stock configuration except the plugs
are
> > gapped to
.032. Any ideas?
> >
> > Jim
> >
91-VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 10:41:24
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when cold
I had a BC installed
previously. When I removed it, I returned everything
to stock except
the plug gap. I think the gap is not contributing anything
to the
problem. The car runs perfectly after reaching
operating
temperature. The issue is that there is a hesitation in boost
when the
engine is cold. I believe the same problem existed when the BC
was
installed in this car. I now have the BC in another car and there
is no
problem at cold temp in that car and the plugs are gapped to .032 as
well.
Jim
91-VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darc
[mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 10:27 AM
To: 'Team3S
(E-mail)'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when cold
Why
have you gapped at .032 if you are not running a BC? Was the problem
apparent
at higher gap? When you regaled, did you do (or not do) something
in that
reinstallation, particularly the tricky back bank, that might be
have
contributed to the problem?
Darc
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
To:
"'Team3S (E-mail)'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation on boost when
cold
> Let me try this question once again:
> > My
91-VR4 does not want to boost when the engine is still warming up
to
> > normal operating temperature. There is a hesitation,
almost a stumble
and
> > then the boost kicks in. After warm
up, the boost is immediate and
> > strong. No mods were made to
the stock configuration except the plugs
are
> > gapped to
.032. Any ideas?
> >
> > Jim
> >
91-VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 13:44:46
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Racing harnesses in a VR-4
Correction. There is no rear
strut tower brace but it is the stock
crossbrace that separates the trunk
from the cabin (at the bottom of the
rear seatbacks and stuff).
There
appears to be a way to use an eye bolt into the stock mounting
position and
then add a clip (like a carabiner) onto the end of the harness
and clip this
in to and out of the eye bolt when needed instead of dealing
with bolts all
the time.
I have a picture through the trunk of my car for anyone who
wants to see the
setup but it is also on the Team3S Rollbar FAQ page.
The stock seat will be
removed and replaced with a race seat so the height of
the shoulder is
different. Sorry for the confusion.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 12:03 PM
To: Schilberg, Darren
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Racing harnesses in a VR-4
Darren
I'm not sure why you're using
the rear mounts ---- I have the eye bolt for
my
competition belt in place
of the bolts for the stock front belts with the
stock
belts left in place.
When I install my race seat I'll have to move the
inside belt
attachment
point as it attaches to the side of the stock seat. When not
racing I
just unclip the comp belts and I'm good to go.
I attach my shoulder
harness's to my rear strut bar ' BUT ' it is the
Roadrace
engineering bar
---- it's made of 1½" rollbar material. I wouldn't attach to
something flimsy
like the Cusco bar. I thought you bought the Autopower
rollbar with the belt
bar ???
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 14:33:58
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Factory Radio
I have a '91 dodge stealth R/T Turbo (awd/aws), and the c/d
player recently
stopped accepting and ejecting discs. Does anybody
know where I can get the
mitsu factory radio repaired?
Thor
Holth
'91 Stealth (red/black)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 14:33:17
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
Is anyone else getting
multiple copies of this message (and others)? I've
gotten a copy about
every hour since the original was sent. ????
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Jett
[mailto:djett@corp.ultratech.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 9:31
AM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealthman92@yahoo.com> Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: proper way to adjust Greddy BOV
>
>
>
Jeff,
>
> Good points. I guess I should have checked my
conversions,
> and it brings to light that there might have been other
> forces at work when I did my BOV swap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 15:37:09
-0400 (EDT)
From: "Mark William Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Interior Bubbles
This is an old topic, but did anyone ever find
an efficient, working solution
to the interior bubbles that pop up on our
doors?? i think this is due to the
heat inside the car, and the glue
gets dried out underneath the vynal thus
detaching its hold to the car door
wall.
Some have said to try some silicon glue in a syringe and inject
some in there
and then smear it around! has any one successfully done
this, and what product
did you use?
Thanks
all.
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 12:41:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Interior Bubbles
Maybe Vinny can help.
http://www.ecanfix.com/~doordoctor/That
link and MANY more are available on the Garage Page at my
web
site.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mark William Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealth@starnet.net>;
<
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 1:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Interior Bubbles
This
is an old topic, but did anyone ever find an efficient, working
solution to
the interior bubbles that pop up on our doors?? i think
this is due to
the heat inside the car, and the glue gets dried out
underneath the vynal
thus detaching its hold to the car door wall.
Some have said to try some
silicon glue in a syringe and inject some
in there and then smear it
around! has any one successfully done
this, and what product did you
use?
Thanks
all.
Mark
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 15:59:18
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Interior Bubbles
I thought Vineet Singh had a fancy way of
attaching a brass or aluminum
strip of metal down where the armrest part
meets the vertical part of the
door. He had some pictures on his page
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark William Hindelang
[mailto:hindelan@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 3:37 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.net;
mi3si@yahoogroups.comSubject:
Team3S: Interior Bubbles
This is an old topic, but did anyone ever
find an efficient, working
solution
to the interior bubbles that pop up on
our doors?? i think this is due to
the
heat inside the car, and the
glue gets dried out underneath the vynal thus
detaching its hold to the car
door wall.
Some have said to try some silicon glue in a syringe and
inject some in
there
and then smear it around! has any one
successfully done this, and what
product
did you use?
Thanks
all.
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 16:36:12
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: How do you get the lights out?
I am trying to take out my front
air dam.
There is one last bolt up near the right teeny tiny driving light.
So I have to take the driving light out...now howinhell does that
sucker
come out of there? I can see bolts and stuff way back up in there,
but
you'd have to have a hand the size of a two-year old to get in
there.
Actually, I can get a wrench on them to get them off, but I'd never be
able
to put them back in.
I know those driving lights are absolutely
useless pieces of junk so, if I
have to, I'll take them off and leave them
off, but I'd rather not.
Help.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 14:43:17
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Formula 1 team engineers
I've got a manual but no flatbed scanner ----
maybe I can figure out a way to
do a file transfer from my cd version of the
manual. If I can figure it out I'll
send it off.
BTY --- does the
check engine light stay on
????????
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Susan . <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 10:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: Formula 1 team
engineers
> I'm entertaining 8 Formula 1 racing team engineers
from the UK this weekend
> who are on a tour of the US meeting with NASA
tech transfer offices on
> lightweight materials, propulsion technology,
etc. They'd like to get ahold
> of a wiring diagram for my VR4 to check
out a mass airflow sensor wiring
> issue (just for fun since I've been a
great host!). Anyone who may have
> access to or know how I could
obtain such a diagram would be well
> appreciated. If you can get
yourself to the UK, a tour a Formula 1 design
> facility may be in order
for the provider of this info!
>
> The Coswell team engineer races
street cars in his spare time, and would
> likely entertain any questions
if you send them to me...
>
> Thanks for any help on the diagram
-
>
> Susan
> '91 VR4
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 18:18:32
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: How do you get the lights out? Got 'em!
OK, it's very easy, as it
turns out.
First, you take out the inboard phillips screw, easily reachable
from the
front grille.
Then, using a long phillips screwdriver, reach in
through the intercooler
grille opening and take out the outboard
screw.
Finally, unscrew the height adjuster screw all the way, and the sucker
pops
right out.
Three phillips-head screws, and that's all it takes.
I took both of the lights out, because I see a way to run brake scoops
from
there.
I think a big round black brake scoop looks a lot better than
those dinky
driving lights anyway. All the rubes will be wondering what they
are for.
Speaking of useless, now that I see the air dam I can't help
but wonder why
they went to all that trouble to shove a dinky piece of sheet
metal about
1-in. down into the air stream. Mine is gone now, into the same
box as
those useless driving lights. Musta saved 3-4 lb.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4/drivinglightless
My original question:
I am trying to
take out my front air dam.
There is one last bolt up near the right teeny
tiny driving light.
So I have to take the driving light out...now howinhell
does that sucker
come out of there? I can see bolts and stuff way back up in
there, but
you'd have to have a hand the size of a two-year old to get in
there.
Actually, I can get a wrench on them to get them off, but I'd never be
able
to put them back in.
I know those driving lights are absolutely
useless pieces of junk so, if I
have to, I'll take them off and leave them
off, but I'd rather not.
Help.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#456
*********************