team3s
Thursday, April 5
2001
Volume 01 : Number
454
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 4 Apr 2001 07:23:28 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel pump flow tests and voltage drop
I have never personally measured
the voltage at the fuel pump but always
meant to do it. One possible
flaw may be your assumption about the
resistance. It is possible that
the chassis ground presents a higher
resistance than reflected by the power
wires alone.
Others claim that the fuel pump only sees about 11.5V.
My approach has been
to ensure a stellar chassis ground and see what happens
after that. I
suspect at least a few overlook ground straps. I
have put in two. I would
prefer not to have to go to the trouble of
running dedicated wire to the
fuel pump but if need be I will.
I'd be
curious to know what people are reading there too. I'll measure
mine
one of these days and post it. I should have also measured it
before the
new ground straps but oh well...
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
>
> RCE only tested the flow at
13.5 V, which leads to my question. Has
> anyone measured the voltage AT
THE PUMP?
>
> Looking at the our circuit diagrams I have found the
following
> current path to the pump.
>
> 1) Battery [+
terminal]
> 2) Fusible link [30A term. 4]
> 3) Ignition switch
[IG1]
> 4) Multipurpose fuse [15A term. 12]
> 5) Engine control
relay
> 6) Fuel pump relay
> 6a) Resistor [switched by
ECU at idle through the pump relay]
> 7) Fuel pump
> 8) Chassis
ground [-] at point number 10 in luggage compartment
>
> I don't
recognize any device here (other than the resistor) that
> would reduce
the voltage to the pump from the nominal (greater than)
> 13.4 operating
voltage (from the alternator when ambient is less than
> 140ºF). Am I
wrong?
>
> I am guessing that the pump might draw about 8 amps at
60-70 psi load
> (less amps at lower psi). The current wire is 1.25mm, or
about 16
> gage, and should have a resistance of 0.0047 ohms per foot.
Figuring
> maybe 14 feet of wire to the pump gives about 0.5 V max voltage
drop
> (8A x (0.0047ohm/ft x 14') = 0.5 V.
>
> My guess is
that we should always see about 13 volts or more to the
> pump. Has
anybody measured this?
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 07:23:16
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: X case
level
Have any of you, Brad, Jack, etc who change your x case fluid
regularly
(like at every oil change) found a method, or fabricated a
tool (other than
the "well engineered" bent paper clip method) to
measure fluid at the
stated specs which are below the filler hole
level?
Darc--clearly tired of the paper clip method.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 07:31:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: X case level
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htmand
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-oiltool.jpgNote
that 1993 5-spd and all 6-spd transfer cases are full at bottom
of fill hole,
not below fill hole as on 1991-1992 5-spd. My tool is
made out of some thin
brass I found in my toolbox. A notch is cut out
at the right
level.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com'92 transfer
case
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 04, 2001 8:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: X case
level
Have any of you, Brad, Jack, etc who change your x case
fluid
regularly (like at every oil change) found a method, or
fabricated a
tool (other than the "well engineered" bent paper
clip method) to
measure fluid at the stated specs which are below
the filler hole
level?
Darc--clearly tired of the paper clip
method.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:44:06
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel pump flow tests and voltage drop
I posted this on the other board
and got no response ---- has anyone tried
the dual pump method I've seen on
the Supra board. It looks simple in theory,
but, is there a requirement for
check valves or such. In my case I'll be
mounting my battery in the back and
I'll add a secondary fuel pump relay
and reduce the circuit path.
As per
Jeff's circuit list it looks like I'll have to solve a Idle resisor problem.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Hi all,
>
> I had RC Engineering flow test my 56,000-mile-old stock
Stealth TT
> fuel pump and the Denso 95130-1020 (aka Supra Turbo pump) I
installed
> about 2000 miles ago. For those interested, the results are at
my
> fuel pump upgrade web page at the link
below.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 11:01:49
-0500
From: Danny Melton <
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Buying Tires on the Net
Try
http://www.tirerack.com Their shipping isn't
outrageous. Every time
I've ordered something, I have received it within 2-3
days, and the prices
are hard to beat.
Later,
Danny
Melton
At 04:10 PM 4/3/01 -0700, you wrote:
>I know this is
redundant. Sorry. Could someone recommend a reliable
>vendor
for
>tires? I need a pair of Yokohamas, 245/40-18 ZR, and am
shopping price.
>Alternatively, if someone has a used pair with at least
5k miles left,
>drop me
a
>note.
>
>Thanks!
>
>- Dan
>'95 Black
VR4
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 09:02:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Buying Tires on the Net
In fact, Ive never been able to ship
tires anywhere as cheap as tirerack
does.
Im sure theyve gotta killer
deal with fedex on that.
On Wed, 4 Apr 2001, Danny Melton
wrote:
> Try
http://www.tirerack.com Their shipping isn't
outrageous. Every time
> I've ordered something, I have received it
within 2-3 days, and the prices
> are hard to beat.
>
Later,
> Danny Melton
>
>
> At 04:10 PM 4/3/01 -0700,
you wrote:
> >I know this is redundant. Sorry. Could
someone recommend a reliable
> >vendor for
> >tires? I
need a pair of Yokohamas, 245/40-18 ZR, and am shopping price.
>
>Alternatively, if someone has a used pair with at least 5k miles left,
> >drop me a
> >note.
> >
>
>Thanks!
> >
> >- Dan
> >'95 Black VR4
>
>
> >
> >*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
I own a lotta cars. But in the best interests
of not having to continualy
edit this file to meet the needs of eight
specific lists, and no to awaken the
idiots within others who think -thier-
cars are the best and Im a fool for
having anything -but- thier kind of
car..I have not listed them. If Im on
the list you are reading..I have
one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 12:23:54
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Greddy Type-S BOV Install Problem
I tried yesterday to install
the Greedy Type-S BOV Kit that I purchased from
GT-Pro, but had problems and
was hoping someone could help.
After installing the kit in my 1997 VR-4 I
was unable to shift into 3rd, or
5th gear. After some searching, I
found out that the BOV was interfering
with the shift linkage. I tried
repositioning the BOV and was able to get
3rd, but was unable to move it
enough to get 5th.
I looked at the stock part, and the opening on the
stock part that attaches
to the Y-Pipe is a 90 degree port, but the Greddy
with the adapter is
straight.
It seems that this forces the Greddy to
be parallel to the engine, where the
stock part is at a 90 degree angle to
the engine, and this allows the stock
part to not interfere with the shift
linkage.
I would really like to install this BOV. Is this the wrong
adapter ?
Can you please help ?
Thank you
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.comAnthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 11:26:49
-0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need ECS wiring harness...
Hey All...
If anyone has the
ECS wiring harness (fronts) for sale
please contact me (
jd@edge-software.com).
(Sorry for
the non-tech post.)
Thanks,
-JD
_______________________________________________________________________
__________ ____________
/ ____/ __ \/ ____/
____/
John C. Davidson
/ __/ / / / / / __/ __/
/ /__ / /_/ / /_/ /
/__
email:
jd@edge-software.com/_____/_____/\____/_____/
voice: (512)
371-EDGE
Inc.
fax: (512) 371-3351
_____S O F T W A R
E___________________________________________________
"Success
depends on having the EDGE."
http://www.edge-software.com_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 16:07:48
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Buying Tires on the Net
Just shipped two used tires less rims
to my son via UPS @ $25 each.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, April 04, 2001 11:03 AM
> To: Danny Melton
> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Buying Tires on the Net
>
> In fact, Ive never
been able to ship tires anywhere as cheap as tirerack
> does.
>
> Im sure theyve gotta killer deal with fedex on that.
>
>
On Wed, 4 Apr 2001, Danny Melton wrote:
>
> > Try
http://www.tirerack.com Their shipping isn't
outrageous. Every time
> > I've ordered something, I have received it
within 2-3 days, and the
> prices
> > are hard to beat.
>
> Later,
> > Danny Melton
> >
> >
> >
At 04:10 PM 4/3/01 -0700, you wrote:
> > >I know this is
redundant. Sorry. Could someone recommend a reliable
> >
>vendor for
> > >tires? I need a pair of Yokohamas,
245/40-18 ZR, and am shopping
> price.
> > >Alternatively, if
someone has a used pair with at least 5k miles left,
> > >drop me
a
> > >note.
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> >
>
> > >- Dan
> > >'95 Black VR4
> >
>
> > >
> > >*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> California, USA
>
> I own a lotta cars. But in the
best interests of not having to continualy
> edit this file to meet the
needs of eight specific lists, and no to awaken
> the
> idiots
within others who think -thier- cars are the best and Im a fool for
>
> having anything -but- thier kind of car..I have not listed them.
If Im on
>
> the list you are reading..I have one.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 14:17:04
+0000
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Brake line recall?
How long has there been a recall on the
front brake lines for the 94 Stealth
turbo?
Just took my car to have the
shifter linkage checked out and they're
replacing the front brake lines
(warranty).
Just wondering how long the recall has been out there.
- --
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 16:18:36
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Buying Tires on the Net
At 04:07 PM 4/4/01 -0500, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
>Just shipped two used tires less rims to my son via UPS
@ $25 each.
Good ol' Useless Parcel Service-- charging four times as
much as necessary
I shipped four race tires WITH '97 steel rims to Flash for
less than $50
via FedEx Ground (the green trucks). They seem to be the
cheapest.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 09:25:46
+1200
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Brake line recall?
Recall was done in 1996 for the '91
3000GT, so I assume a
similar recall was made for the Stealth and other
models.
See details below:
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_Recall1.txtCheers,
Kevin
Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 16:55:49
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Greddy Type-S BOV Install Problem
Try taking a zip tie and
wrapping the BOV tube coming out of the Y-pipe to
that metal bar running
from the frame up along the side of the y-pipe. This
will move the BOV
a good inch to the side and should clear your linkage
then. It worked
for my DSM BOV.
later,
Curt
CarParts at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html>From:
"anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
>To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Greddy Type-S BOV Install Problem
>Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 12:23:54
-0400
>
>I tried yesterday to install the Greedy Type-S BOV Kit that
I purchased
>from
>GT-Pro, but had problems and was hoping someone
could help.
>
>After installing the kit in my 1997 VR-4 I was unable
to shift into 3rd, or
>5th gear. After some searching, I found out
that the BOV was interfering
>with the shift linkage. I tried
repositioning the BOV and was able to get
>3rd, but was unable to move it
enough to get 5th.
>
>I looked at the stock part, and the opening on
the stock part that attaches
>to the Y-Pipe is a 90 degree port, but the
Greddy with the adapter is
>straight.
>
>It seems that this
forces the Greddy to be parallel to the engine, where
>the
>stock
part is at a 90 degree angle to the engine, and this allows the
stock
>part to not interfere with the shift linkage.
>
>I
would really like to install this BOV. Is this the wrong adapter
?
>
>Can you please help ?
>
>Thank you
>Anthony
Melillo
>anthonymelillo@home.com
>
>Anthony
Melillo
>anthonymelillo@home.com
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 17:53:56
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fidanza Flywheels Group Buy (expires end of April)
Roger Gerl
wrote:
> Guys and Gals
> There is a group buy just started up
from 3SXperts.com that offers the
> Fidanza aluminum flywheel for our
cars.
>
> Weight of it is only 11lbs (22 lbs stock flywheel for TT)
and 8 lbs (15 lbs
> stock NA).
Perhaps someone can answer the
following before I jump on the bandwagon (there
appears to be an extreme
amount of support for this product on the 3SI.org
board).
I thought
many of our top 1/4 milers preferred the heavier flywheel for
launches and
recovery after shifts. I remember Jack T. and others defending our
heavy
flywheels a couple years ago. Basicly, revving the engine in preparation
for
a hard launch puts a lot of potential energy (or kinetic depending on
your
perspective) into the flywheel waiting to catapult you off the line. A
light
flywheel will allow you to bog easier. Also on shifts, the extra energy
you put
into the flywheel to accelerate it to a higher speed is returned to
you when
the gear change and subsequent engine speed reduction is fought by
the faster
spinning heavy flywheel.
If the aluminum flywheel was a
clear cut advantage, I'd be in. I fully
understand the advantages it would
give to someone on the highway doing a third
gear pull through the rpms (in
terms of both inertial and translational
savings). I guess I'd like to hear
from people who have used both at the track.
Now when it comes to items
on the other side of the transaxle, I'm all about
weight reduction
(driveshaft, rims, etc.).
Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 00:14:17
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Greddy Type-S BOV Install Problem
http://www.rtec.ch/info_mods.htmlShows
the valve installed. The whole thing is a 90° angle otherwise you'd
not have
any chance to install it. Therefore it is ok. The proble mwith the
second gen
cars is that the linkage from the tranny is too close. Untighten
the clamps
of the intake rubber part after mas and turn it more clockwise to
angle it a
little. FInally use some larger zip ties to move tie the BOV out
of the
linkages way. This should work well.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> After installing the kit
in my 1997 VR-4 I was unable to shift into 3rd,
or
> 5th gear.
After some searching, I found out that the BOV was interfering
> with the
shift linkage. I tried repositioning the BOV and was able to get
>
3rd, but was unable to move it enough to get 5th.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 15:10:26
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Brake line recall?
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Ian Marks" <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
> How
long has there been a recall on the front brake lines for the 94
Stealth
turbo? Just took my car to have the shifter linkage checked out
and
they're replacing the front brake lines (warranty). Just wondering
how long
the recall has been out there.
> --
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Clark" <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
> Recall
was done in 1996 for the '91 3000GT, so I assume a similar
recall was made
for the Stealth and other models. See details below:
>
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_Recall1.txtOriginal
equipment brake lines were good quality, but were too short;
they didn't
notice the problem until years later-- If you frequented
bumpy roads
with lots of turns (where the suspension would go to its
full travel while
steering was at its full travel), the lines would
weaken and start to leak at
the fittings. The new lines are simply
about 1" longer. A list of
Recalls and TSBs is one of our FAQ pages;
find it under under "The
Basics":
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 15:49:00
-0700
From: "rick pierce" <
rick.pierce@alphadog.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGR Vacuum Line Question
Hi there all (Bob I apologize I may have
sent this earlier in HTML format -
sorry someone else's
browser),
Basically I think that when the previous owner had the engine
rebuilt the
mechanics didn't hook up the vacuum hoses properly. I have
a 1992 VR-4 and
the Turbo operation seems to work fine and those hoses do
seem to be hooked
up properly. My problem is with the other Vacuum
hoses especially the EGR
Valve's driver's side hose. This hose is off
the EGR valve and there are no
extra hoses not plugged into something.
I do have a copy of the Vacuum hose
diagram from the tech manual (page 17-45)
but it is too dark to make out the
hose color labeling. I have also
looked @ the underhood diagram but the
hookups are not defined enough for me
to exactly identify what is hooked up
wrong (note I am enclosing the post
below I placed on 3SI.org with more
detail - but it is fairly
cryptic).
I have in fact been able to determine that some of these lines
are not
hooked up correctly, but I was hoping someone with a 1992 VR-4 or TT
could
tell me exactly how their EGR vacuum lines are routed.
I need to
get a smog certificate for this so I would like to make sure the
EGR is
hooked up properly (as I have had cars failed for this before).
One
other thing if the EGR Valve driver's side hose does not actuate it
(the
passenger side hose does look to be hooked up to one of the vacuum
lines)
and therefore the EGR is "on" all the time then maybe this is all
academic
and I don't need to worry about it.
Sorry for the long
post
Thanks for any and all help, I will try to spare anyone who helps
from a lot
of pestering.
Rick Pierce
Vice President, Management
Reporting and Analysis
AlphaDog Procurement Management
Rick.Pierce@AlphaDog.com415-315-1832
Post
from 3SI.org:
Everyone, I will be taking my 92 VR4 in to get a CA smog
certificate. Since
I only recently got it I was doing a visual inspection and
noticed one of
the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve is not hooked up (the
driver's side hose).
Since the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, I'm
guessing they screwed
up on reattaching the hoses.
From the underhood
diagram and Jeff's Stealth 316 website (where I was able
to get a copy of the
vacuum hose routing) the level of detail is not clear
enough for me to
EXACTLY identify what is wrong - I think they got rid of
what looks like the
"Y" adapter before the "T" and plugged the Yellow hose
on the "T" in place of
the hose that's supposed to go to the EGR valve
(effectively eliminating the
EGR operation). I also think the red hose and
the hose from the T from the
hard tube front connector have been switched
(the diagram shows the red hose
being hooked up to the center hard tube not
the outside (as mine is)). I know
this is cryptically lame but it also
really looks like it is screwed
up!
Anyway I was wondering if someone with a 1992 twin turbo/VR4 could go
out to
their car and tell me exactly how the hoses should be hooked up
working
backwards from the EGR (e.g. Driver's side hose goes to center of T -
one
side of T to outside hard tube - other to ?? - Yellow hose from solenoid
to
??) etc. Or if someone could take a detailed picture of a proper setup.
Or
better yet if anyone is close to Richmond, CA maybe I could check it out
for
myself.
Sorry this is so long but I do need the help.
Rick
Pierce
Vice President, Management Reporting and Analysis
AlphaDog
Procurement Management
Rick.Pierce@AlphaDog.com415-315-1832
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 19:57:51
-0500
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need purchasing info
I am looking to lower my '95 VR4. ECS
and manual sunroof.
Anyone have success with a set of springs? I
want to get front
camber plates, matching manufacture of springs if
possible.
Also, can I get the rears into a livable amount of camber
without
notching the bolt holes?
Thanks in
advance,
Shane
Feel free to email
directly.
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 23:36:09
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGR Vacuum Line Question
Rick,
The top of the throttle
plate has a series of vacuum lines that branch out
all over the car.
If
you look carefully, you'll read the letters A, E, P
Each of these corresponds
to a series of interconnecting lines.
For example, the two connecting to your
EGR valve comes off T fittings from
the A and E
lines
respectively.
I have a schematic under 14A-6 Multport Fuel Injection in
my service manual
that outlines
where every line goes.
However, there
is no color; ya gotta follow each line manually (I know, been
there
:( )
Best,
Noble
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: rick pierce <
rick.pierce@alphadog.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 04, 2001 3:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: EGR Vacuum Line
Question
> Hi there all (Bob I apologize I may have sent this
earlier in HTML
format -
> sorry someone else's
browser),
>
> Basically I think that when the previous owner had the
engine rebuilt the
> mechanics didn't hook up the vacuum hoses
properly. I have a 1992 VR-4
and
> the Turbo operation seems to
work fine and those hoses do seem to be
hooked
> up properly. My
problem is with the other Vacuum hoses especially the EGR
> Valve's
driver's side hose. This hose is off the EGR valve and there
are
no
> extra hoses not plugged into something. I do have a copy
of the Vacuum
hose
> diagram from the tech manual (page 17-45) but it
is too dark to make out
the
> hose color labeling. I have also
looked @ the underhood diagram but the
> hookups are not defined enough
for me to exactly identify what is hooked
up
> wrong (note I am
enclosing the post below I placed on 3SI.org with more
> detail - but it
is fairly cryptic).
>
> I have in fact been able to determine that
some of these lines are not
> hooked up correctly, but I was hoping
someone with a 1992 VR-4 or TT could
> tell me exactly how their EGR
vacuum lines are routed.
>
> I need to get a smog certificate for
this so I would like to make sure the
> EGR is hooked up properly (as I
have had cars failed for this before).
One
> other thing if the EGR
Valve driver's side hose does not actuate it (the
> passenger side hose
does look to be hooked up to one of the vacuum lines)
> and therefore the
EGR is "on" all the time then maybe this is all academic
> and I don't
need to worry about it.
>
> Sorry for the long post
>
>
Thanks for any and all help, I will try to spare anyone who helps from
a
lot
> of pestering.
>
> Rick Pierce
> Vice
President, Management Reporting and Analysis
> AlphaDog Procurement
Management
>
Rick.Pierce@AlphaDog.com>
415-315-1832
>
> Post from 3SI.org:
> Everyone, I will be
taking my 92 VR4 in to get a CA smog certificate.
Since
> I only
recently got it I was doing a visual inspection and noticed one of
> the
vacuum hoses to the EGR valve is not hooked up (the driver's
side
hose).
> Since the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, I'm
guessing they screwed
> up on reattaching the hoses.
>
> From
the underhood diagram and Jeff's Stealth 316 website (where I
was
able
> to get a copy of the vacuum hose routing) the level of
detail is not clear
> enough for me to EXACTLY identify what is wrong - I
think they got rid of
> what looks like the "Y" adapter before the "T" and
plugged the Yellow hose
> on the "T" in place of the hose that's supposed
to go to the EGR valve
> (effectively eliminating the EGR operation). I
also think the red hose and
> the hose from the T from the hard tube front
connector have been switched
> (the diagram shows the red hose being
hooked up to the center hard tube
not
> the outside (as mine is)). I
know this is cryptically lame but it also
> really looks like it is
screwed up!
>
> Anyway I was wondering if someone with a 1992 twin
turbo/VR4 could go out
to
> their car and tell me exactly how the hoses
should be hooked up working
> backwards from the EGR (e.g. Driver's side
hose goes to center of T - one
> side of T to outside hard tube - other to
?? - Yellow hose from solenoid
to
> ??) etc. Or if someone could take a
detailed picture of a proper setup. Or
> better yet if anyone is close to
Richmond, CA maybe I could check it out
for
> myself.
>
>
Sorry this is so long but I do need the help.
>
> Rick
Pierce
> Vice President, Management Reporting and Analysis
>
AlphaDog Procurement Management
>
Rick.Pierce@AlphaDog.com>
415-315-1832
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 22:17:07
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need purchasing info
At 07:57 PM 4/4/01 -0500, Shane Thoms
wrote:
>
>I am looking to lower my '95 VR4. ECS and manual
sunroof.
>Anyone have success with a set of springs? I want to get
front
>camber plates, matching manufacture of springs if
possible.
I used an adjustable suspension from Ground Control, which
includes Eibach
springs and an adjustment collar for setting the height. My
problem is that
first I ordered the springs, then put in the camber plates
six months
later. This dropped it right down to the GROUND, because the
camber plates
replace the top strut mount, and take out about three inches of
strut
height. We adjusted it back up, but it is still much lower than I'd
like,
because I hit everything (you can see it at
www.bazillionbooks.com: scroll
down
to race photos, and click on Heartland Park, November 2000 if you want
to see
a LOW 3000GT).
I wanted to raise it an inch or so, but I am out of
adjustment. Tony at
Ground Control told me I would have to buy a new set of
longer springs to
raise it back up. My advice to you is to tell Tony what it
is you want to
do, and order the springs and camber plates at the same time,
so you don't
suffer my problem.
It sure does handle good,
though.
>Also, can I get the rears into a livable amount of camber
without
>notching the bolt holes?
Sure. The kit lowers it quite a
bit, but you only get about -0.5 to -1 deg
of negative camber back there. You
can live with that, especially
considering that the handling is
great.
Incidently, you don't need camber plates unless you plan to do
road racing.
You can still get about -0.5 deg camber without the plates. I
added camber
plates because I wanted -2.5 deg camber.
Rich/old
poop
94 VR4 w/Ground Control, Eibachs (550/315) and camber
plates.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 22:26:54
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Off-topic: Need someone in Woodstock IL area (trying to track down
a thief)
I recently had a purchase go bad for me over the internet.
I need help
looking someone up.
His name is Jeremy (or scott)
Quade.
phone # of 815 334 0974
The person who finds this person
can have all of what is collected. My
goal here is to press
charges with the proper authorities, not collect my
money.
As always,
direct your replies directly to me, not the list.
Thanks
again,
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 21:26:15
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Severe hesitation...coolant sensor related?
I have a very severe
hesitation from the engine under 3000 rpm. Seems to
get really bad when
the car warms up, but isn't so noticeable when the car
is still cold.
Could the coolant temperature gauge unit/sensor/switch
be
malfunctioning? This problem seemed to show up after the car
overheated
from a bad thermostat (boiled over...steam everywhere) and has
been getting
steadily worse since.
Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T
TT
01 Yellow S2000
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 08:28:36
-0400
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: carparts
Hello everybody,
are there any nice coupons floating
around for carparts.com? All the ones I
have are expired...
Thanks in
advance!
Dusan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 08:12:04
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Brake line recall?
forever.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ian Marks [SMTP:ianmarks@earthlink.net]
> Sent:
Wednesday, April 04, 2001 9:17 AM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Team3S:
Front Brake line recall?
>
> How long has there been a recall on
the front brake lines for the 94
> Stealth
> turbo?
> Just
took my car to have the shifter linkage checked out and they're
>
replacing the front brake lines (warranty).
> Just wondering how long the
recall has been out there.
> --
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 06:57:08
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: carparts
- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dusan
Simovic"
<
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
>
Hello everybody, are there any nice coupons floating around for
carparts.com?
All the ones I have are expired... Thanks in advance!
>
Dusan
>
Here are some codes for the current standard
discounts:
243628 for $30 off $100 for first time
customers
846955 for 10% off
afs50 for Free
Shipping
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 09:45:55
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: carparts
Dustin,
I always have the most current
CarParts deals on my page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
Right now, the 20% off coupon is the
best I have. Its a great coupon
because there is no maximum value on it.
This makes it great for big
purchases like exhausts. Just bookmark my page,
and you can always
check it out for the best deals. I don't post info on my
CarParts
deals on the Team 3S list very often. I save that for the Starnet
list. ;)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: "Bob
Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
>To: "Dusan
Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>, <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: carparts
>Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 06:57:08
-0700
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Dusan
Simovic"
><
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
> >
Hello everybody, are there any nice coupons floating around
for
>carparts.com? All the ones I have are expired... Thanks in
advance!
> > Dusan
> >
>
>Here are some codes for
the current standard discounts:
>
>243628 for $30 off $100 for
first time customers
>846955 for 10% off
>afs50 for Free
Shipping
>
>Best,
>
>Forrest
>
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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