*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:19:37
-0700
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Struts
I got my front strut replacements from Norco
Mitsubishi... with the discount
the price was around 140 each... but there
are no Aftermarket that work with
the ECS... If you don't want the ECS
you have several options for
replacement.
Justin
Emerald 1992
Stealth R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
ThorHolth@aol.com
[mailto:ThorHolth@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 1:54 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Front Struts
Egads, I just found out I need to have the front
struts replaced in my 1991
Stealth R/T Turbo. The car has the
Electronically controlled suspension,
which make it, of course, more
expensive.
Is there an aftermarket replacement, and if so, from where?
Right now, the
estimate is $225.00 each for the parts. (i'll replace them
myself).
thanks for any input.
- -Thor
1991 Stealth R/T
Turbo (just bought last week)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:25:35
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gettin down low
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles
E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
The instructions accompanying our Ground Control setup included cutting
the
> bump stops. I don't understand why you say it would be
"dangerous" if you
> hit a bump while the car is sitting on the bump stop
- uncomfortable, yes.
The danger comes from the upsetting of the chassis
when you go from a
spring rate of 200# [ stock springs ] to 1000# [ bump
stop material ]. Under
normal driving it probably wouldn't be a problem
but in a racing environment
it could prove
disconcerting.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 09:09:57
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gettin down low
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
opentracking@topica.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
My car is about as low as it can go.
> I'm wondering if maybe it's too
low.
>
> One of the ROWGs around here said that if you go too low,
you can encounter
> bump steer.
I did a quick Google.com search and
found a bunch of info --- a couple of links
are included here.
http://www.huntertw.com/articles3.htmlhttp://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 11:51:23
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New exhaust
Just put a new custom-made exhaust on the ol'
VR4.
My fabulous local muffler shop -- Denny's Mufflers, in Cedar
Rapids, IA
- -- ordered two 60-deg mandrel-bent 3-in. elbows, then
welded up a neat
little system. (For those of you who don't know the
difference -- surely
not on our list! -- a mandrel bent pipe has no kinks in
it. It is a
perfectly smooth bend, exactly what we need for our exhaust. Few
local
muffler shops can do this. Denny's had to order the elbows from
a
specialty bender).
Denny's cut off the stock dual exhaust just
forward of the diff, removed
the entire furshlugginer stock system in one
piece (Jeez, that thing is
heavy! It's stainless steel, too), welded the two
elbows together and to
the straight tail pipe coming from the cat, and bolted
in an Xelerator
muffler with a chrome tip. The Xelerator is a straight
through design,
and claims to have the least amount of back pressure of any
muffler on
the market.
It is a very simple system with only two
60-deg bends, and it looks very
neat tucked up in there. The hangers bolt to
all the stock exhaust system
mounts. I can't tell you the exact cost because
they are being very nice
to me these days, but I s'pose you could have the
same done at your local
shop for around $200.
I thought it would
be real loud, but it turned out to be mellow. Kind of
a deeper sound than the
raspy stock muffler, but not as loud. Or maybe
it's as loud, just a different
sound. I would rather it had been louder,
but I'll settle for no back
pressure.
It may be my imagination, but the car seems to run much
better now. It
seems to have faster spoolup, and it revs quickly. Only the
watch will
tell the difference of course.
I took photos, but have
no way of scanning them in. If anybody wants to
volunteer their scanner, I'll
send you the pix, and then put the images
on my web site (
www.bazillionbooks.com).
It
occurs to me that I could probably cut the pipe off, send it off to
the
bender, and have copies of it mandrell bent into a one piece pipe for
anyone
who wanted one. I may do that some day. Maybe next
winter.
<bold>Shameless plug for Denny's:</bold>
These guys do all my brake,
suspension, alignment and (now) exhaust work.
They are reasonably priced,
they do good work, they know what they are doing,
and -- best of all --
they actually look forward to working on the car.
If you are within
driving distance, I highly recommend getting your Ground
Control
suspension, camber plates, Big Reds, SS lines, alignment or exhaust
work
done at Denny's Muffler Center, West office, Cedar Rapids,
Iowa,
319/363-5245, ask for Mike or Shelby, and tell 'em that Rich sent
you.
Rich/old poop
94 VR4 w/custom exhaust
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:32:37
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gettin down low
It's known as "bottoming out the
suspension"! If you're not bottoming it
out, you're not trying hard
enough! There is a limit to the travel on all
setups: you can hit
the bump stops in the stock configuration, too, the
body just rolls more
before hitting them!
I still don't understand the "dangerous" word here
- you bottom out when you
are doing something to the car, whether a turn,
hard braking, hard
accelleration, so you should be expecting it. The
bump stop itself is
rubber, which makes is more forgiving than metal to metal
contact.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim
Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 10:26
AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'cody';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gettin down low
>
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
> > The instructions accompanying our Ground Control setup included
cutting
> the
> > bump stops. I don't understand why you
say it would be "dangerous" if
> you
> > hit a bump while the car
is sitting on the bump stop - uncomfortable,
> yes.
>
> The
danger comes from the upsetting of the chassis when you go from a
>
spring rate of 200# [ stock springs ] to 1000# [ bump stop material
].
> Under
> normal driving it probably wouldn't be a problem but in
a racing
> environment
> it could prove disconcerting.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:35:43
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gettin down low
This is GREAT STUFF! Thanks,
Jim!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry
[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 11:10 AM
>
To:
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
Merritt
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Gettin down low
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: <
opentracking@topica.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > My car is about as low as it can go.
> > I'm wondering
if maybe it's too low.
> >
> > One of the ROWGs around here
said that if you go too low, you can
> encounter
> > bump
steer.
>
> I did a quick Google.com search and found a bunch of
info --- a couple of
> links
> are included here.
>
>
http://www.huntertw.com/articles3.html>
>
http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13>
> Jim Berry
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:47:02
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gettin down low
> It's known as "bottoming out the
suspension"! If you're not
> bottoming it out, you're not trying
hard enough! There is
> a limit to the travel on all setups:
you can hit the bump
> stops in the stock configuration, too, the body
just rolls
> more before hitting them!
Unless you know there are
no bumps in the course/road, you should not be
riding on the bumpstops.
If you are routinely on the bumpstops, then you
should increase your spring
rate. Once the spring is used up, cornering
traction reduces over even
minor pavement imperfections. If this weren't
so, then racecars would
have no suspension travel at all. Why bother with
all the extra weight
of dampers and spings and such? Just throw a couple
springs on the
bottom of the seat and you are all set, right?
> I still don't
understand the "dangerous" word here - you
> bottom out when you are
doing something to the car,
> whether a turn, hard braking, hard
accelleration, so
> you should be expecting it. The bump stop itself
is
> rubber, which makes is more forgiving than metal to
> metal
contact.
It could be dangerous if all the suspension travel is used up
(and therefore
the suspension is now "solid") and you go over a bump or
pavement
imperfection while at the maximum traction limit of the tire.
In that case,
the additional force will exceed the traction limit of the tire
and the car
will slide off-course.
Yes, you can "race" while banging
the car against the bumpstops, but it is
far from an optimal setup as you
aren't making maximum use of the
suspension's ability to make the most of the
tires' traction limits.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
A-Prepared
autocrosser
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 11:15:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotor size
Anyone recall the rotor diameter on the Vr4?
(94+)?
Ive gotta 330mm kit im putting on the Celica, and wanted to
compare. I
wont have the brakes till next week, just left Italy
today.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
I own a lotta cars. But in the best interests
of not having to continualy
edit this file to meet the needs of eight
specific lists, and no to awaken the
idiots within others who think -thier-
cars are the best and Im a fool for
having anything -but- thier kind of
car..I have not listed them. If Im on
the list you are reading..I have
one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 11:29:01
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rotor size
The fronts on my '94 VR4 were measured at 322mm although
others have
reported slightly different measurements. I double and
triple checked at
the time and they were 322mm.
As I recall that is
right around 12.6".
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Anyone recall the rotor diameter on the
Vr4? (94+)?
>
> Ive gotta 330mm kit im putting on the Celica, and
wanted to compare. I
> wont have the brakes till next week, just
left Italy today.
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:34:28
EDT
From:
Shivy13@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Gutting pre-cats
I
know that this is probably a frequently asked question but I was
wondering
if anyone can give me some idea on what exactly I need to do to gut
my pre
cats. Any suggestions, do's don'ts. Any and all advice would be
great. Thanks to all of you!
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:34:13
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
Hi everyone:
My dream came thru! I
got my VR-4, 1996, Pearl white, only 14k miles.
It's all stock
(virgin).
I want to start making some mods.
Which ones you
recommend first?
HKS Mega flow filter
Borla exhaust system
Boost
controller (electronic, which one)
HKS blow off valve
Wastegate upgrade,
necessary?
Your input will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Victor
L. Berrios
'93 3K GT, Base, Black
and '96 VR-4, Pearl white
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 21:08:33
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor size
> The fronts on my '94 VR4 were measured at
322mm although others have
> reported slightly different
measurements. I double and triple checked at
> the time and they
were 322mm.
1st gen is 296mm
2nd gen is
314mm
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 21:10:47
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
> Which ones you recommend
first?
>
> HKS Mega flow filter
> Borla exhaust
system
> Boost controller (electronic, which one)
> HKS blow off
valve
> Wastegate upgrade, necessary?
- - Filter
- - Boost
Controller
- - BOV (not really)
- - Injectors, fuel computer, pump
- -
gutting precats
- - exhaust
......
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:18:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
> HKS Mega flow filter
> Borla
exhaust system
> Boost controller (electronic, which one)
> HKS blow
off valve
> Wastegate upgrade, necessary?
All except BOV. No
wastegate changes necessary with a boost controller.
Should put you close to
400hp.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 15:13:45
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gutting pre-cats
I have some instructions on my
website:
http://www.3000gtvr4.net/mods/atr.html-
----- Original Message -----
From:
Shivy13@aol.comTo:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Tuesday, April 03, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: Gutting
pre-cats
I know that this is probably
a frequently asked question but I was
wondering if anyone can give me some
idea on what exactly I need to do to
gut
my pre cats. Any
suggestions, do's don'ts. Any and all advice would be
great. Thanks to
all of you!
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 15:16:58
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
1/4 mile runs.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 2:54
PM
To: Berrios, Victor L
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods in a Stock
VR-4
At 02:42 PM 4/3/01 -0500, you wrote:
>It's going to be a
street car, but I may take it to the race track on the
>weekends.
drag or road course?
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 15:21:26
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
Is this is the model with round front
lights?
I have seen a lot of them here.
I went to a car show back
in February and the Subaru was showing all of
their new models.
(I saw a
Racing 2001 Jaguar, Ossom)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April
03, 2001 3:13 PM
To: 'Berrios, Victor L'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods in a
Stock VR-4
Nevermind. You are in Puerto Rico. Have you
seen any new Subaru WRX cars
down that way at all?
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:25:50
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gutting pre-cats
> I was wondering if anyone can give me
some idea on what exactly
> I need to do to gut my pre cats. Any
suggestions, do's don'ts.
> Any and all advice would be great. Thanks to
all of you!
You need a long, large drill bit. I used a 1" spade
bit with about a 16"
shaft. A bench grinder to sharpen the bit is nice
to have, or at a minimum
a file to touch it up. Put the parts in a vise
to hold it. After making
swiss cheese out of it with the drill, use a
chisel and hammer to chop the
material into sections. Use a long
needle-nose pliers to pull the pieces
out. The front pre-cat comes off
easy. The rear one - not so easy, but I
think it is easier to do a good
job with it off the car (mine was off while
I was upgrading to 15G turbos, so
it was a "freebie" for me. Remove any
sensors that might be attached to
any of the stuff you are working on to
prevent damaging them.
Use a
dust mask and goggles for your eyes. The dust is NASTY!
Figure on
spending a good portion of an afternoon messing around with it.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 15:25:49
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
Thanks for all the input.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC)
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 3:11 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Mods in a Stock VR-4
> Which ones you recommend
first?
>
> HKS Mega flow filter
> Borla exhaust
system
> Boost controller (electronic, which one)
> HKS blow off
valve
> Wastegate upgrade, necessary?
- - Filter
- - Boost
Controller
- - BOV (not really)
- - Injectors, fuel computer, pump
- -
gutting precats
- - exhaust
......
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 16:10:23
-0700
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Buying Tires on the Net
I know this is redundant.
Sorry. Could someone recommend a reliable vendor for
tires? I
need a pair of Yokohamas, 245/40-18 ZR, and am shopping
price.
Alternatively, if someone has a used pair with at least 5k miles left,
drop me a
note.
Thanks!
- - Dan
'95 Black
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 17:56:54
-0400 (EDT)
From: John Stegall III <
fenix@mailroom.com>
Subject: Team3S:
DSM Upgrades
-
---17871825.986335014636.JavaMail.nobody.webfo1
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have a friend who's
a hard core DSMer (as I used to be) and he's got a bunch of stock parts from his
car. He has a 1st gen (90) Eclipse Turbo and he's willing to give me his
BOV, Fuel Pump, and Fuel injectors, as well as his two turbos all for
free. I was wondering how many of these parts, or if all of these parts
can be used as upgrades in our cars (or are some of those parts smaller in the
DSMs than in ours) and if all of them can be used, is there any documentation on
installation procedures and any mods needed to put these parts in our
cars. Also, obviously I need two turbos, but do I need more than one set
of fuel injectors (4 injectors or more? he has 4) will the BOV work and
will it be better than the stock one, etc? I have a 1994 VR-4 that's
stock. Thanks in advance.
John
1994 VR-4
-
---17871825.986335014636.JavaMail.nobody.webfo1--
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:19:41
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rotor size
Well, like I said Roger, mine are 322 mm as measured with a
caliber known to
be accurate. They were also measured by AutoHaus when
we (Brad and I) were
researching the Porsche brake kit and they came up with
322mm also. No
explanation as to why mine are 8mm larger than what
others report, other
than it is what it is.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Roger Gerl (RTEC)
>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 12:09 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotor size
>
>
> > The fronts on my
'94 VR4 were measured at 322mm although others have
> > reported
slightly different measurements. I double and triple
> checked
at
> > the time and they were 322mm.
>
> 1st gen is
296mm
> 2nd gen is 314mm
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 16:51:08
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM Upgrades
> I have a friend who's a hard core DSMer (as
I used to be) and
> he's got a bunch of stock parts from his car.
He has a 1st
> gen (90) Eclipse Turbo and he's willing to give me his
BOV,
> Fuel Pump, and Fuel injectors, as well as his two turbos all
> for free. I was wondering how many of these parts, or if all
> of these parts can be used as upgrades in our cars (or are
>
some of those parts smaller in the DSMs than in ours) and if
> all of
them can be used.
BOV will work with a fabricated adaptor. Fuel
pump is significantly worse
than the stock VR4 fuel pump. Injectors
will work, but you need 6 instead
of 4. That'll upgrade you from 380cc
injectors to 440cc. It might or might
not run correctly with the stock
ECU - a bit of a gamble there, which would
require an aftermarket fuel
controller to correct the problem if it is too
rich.
Stock DSM turbo
can be made to fit with fabrication work to mate it to the
exhaust manifold
and to the downpipe - even worse for the back side turbo as
you'd have to
create some piping and such for the pressurized output. You
said
"turbos" (plural) - I doubt he has two of the same kind of turbo, so
you
would need to acquire a mate for one of his two which would work.
All
in all, way more trouble than it is worth. Much easier to get 13G's
or
15G's (or the compatible hybrids) and just bolt them in (which in itself
is
a terrible pain in the butt).
> Is there any documentation on
> installation procedures and any mods needed to put these
> parts
in our cars. Also, obviously I need two turbos, but do
> I need
more than one set of fuel injectors (4 injectors or
> more? he has
4) will the BOV work and will it be better than
> the stock one,
etc? I have a 1994 VR-4 that's stock. Thanks
> in
advance.
Need 6 injectors. BOV is better than the stock 3/S one,
but as I said - it
requires an adaptor. Other than that, there isn't
much that you can use
easily.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 21:01:58
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
strut tower bar - installation question
What is the correct method for
installing a rear strut tower bar on my TT?
I have seen posts suggesting that
the rear should be on the ground, while
others state that the rear shoud be
jacked up. Seems to me that the car
should be on the ground.
Also, how much should the bar be tightened.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 03:51:30
EDT
From:
LizVong21@aol.comSubject: Team3S: motor
for sale
I have a modified 3.2 yes 3.2 liter motor for sale from a 92
stealth twin
turbo motor has tons of mods including JE pistons polished and
ported heads
and one big intercooler . will sell really cheap need to get it
out of the
garage never been started . call me at 605-310-3439
Vong Teso
SF,SD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 15:29:26
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Fidanza Flywheels Group Buy (expires end of April)
Guys and
Gals
There is a group buy just started up from 3SXperts.com that offers the
Fidanza aluminum flywheel for our cars.
If at least 10 of our members
total will buy from them on a group buy for
both TT's and NA's they will
offer them for $375 shipped to the door for
NA's and $390 for TT's (in the
continental USA). The prices will even go
lower when there are 25 buyers,
$350 for the NA's and $365 for the TTs !
Normal prices can be found around
$429 for the NA and $489 for the TT, so
it's a great deal
IMHO.
Weight of it is only 11lbs (22 lbs stock flywheel for TT) and 8 lbs
(15 lbs
stock NA).
This offer would expire at the end of
April.
If you are interested email Steve at
Steve@3SXperts.com-
------
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 07:08:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump flow tests and voltage drop
Hi all,
I had RC
Engineering flow test my 56,000-mile-old stock Stealth TT
fuel pump and the
Denso 95130-1020 (aka Supra Turbo pump) I installed
about 2000 miles ago. For
those interested, the results are at my
fuel pump upgrade web page at the
link below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htmThe
TT/VR4 pump flowed below expected (usually rated at 180 lph @43
psi @ 12 V,
or so I have seen reported) and I expect this is because
it is old. Something
to think about for you guys modifying older
cars. The "Supra" pump flowed as
expected.
Some of you might remember that a year ago I mentioned that
the "same
as 340 lph HKS" pump I bought from one of the 3S specialty shops
had
the part numbers ground off. I removed the pump last month and took
a
close look at it. I can barely make out the "1020" under the
grinding.
The RC flow test verifies that this is not a 340 lph pump.
Good thing I never
installed those 720 injectors!
RCE only tested the flow at 13.5 V, which
leads to my question. Has
anyone measured the voltage AT THE PUMP?
Looking at the our circuit diagrams I have found the
following
current path to the pump.
1) Battery [+ terminal]
2)
Fusible link [30A term. 4]
3) Ignition switch [IG1]
4) Multipurpose fuse
[15A term. 12]
5) Engine control relay
6) Fuel pump relay
6a)
Resistor [switched by ECU at idle through the pump relay]
7) Fuel pump
8)
Chassis ground [-] at point number 10 in luggage compartment
I don't
recognize any device here (other than the resistor) that
would reduce the
voltage to the pump from the nominal (greater than)
13.4 operating voltage
(from the alternator when ambient is less than
140ºF). Am I wrong?
I
am guessing that the pump might draw about 8 amps at 60-70 psi load
(less
amps at lower psi). The current wire is 1.25mm, or about 16
gage, and should
have a resistance of 0.0047 ohms per foot. Figuring
maybe 14 feet of wire to
the pump gives about 0.5 V max voltage drop
(8A x (0.0047ohm/ft x 14') = 0.5
V.
My guess is that we should always see about 13 volts or more to
the
pump. Has anybody measured this?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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#453
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