team3s
Tuesday, April 3
2001
Volume 01 : Number
452
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 02 Apr 2001 07:13:10 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re:What to Gap Spark Plugs at for Blitz DSBC
Depends on what boost you
want to run. For up to 16psi with stock ignition
I'd use ~.032; for
more, I'd use ~.028. Our ignitions can be weak at high
boost.
9
year old wires, might as well change them out, though they are
probably
ok...
again, if you intend higher boost electricity starts
searching for less
resistance
pathways than the plug.
Jack
T.
Greg Gonzales wrote:
> replacing spark plugs, what
>
gap to set them to? since also installing Blitz DSBC.
> Is it
advisible to change wires at same time? Car has 40k
> but is a 92.
>
Greg G 92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 09:22:40
-0400
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Very rich exhaust at idle - VR4
Check out the engine coolant
temperature sensor. My stealth failed emissions
with hydrocarbons in the 400
range and that was the problem.
The way that I understand it is:
When
you start a cold engine it runs rich until it warms up. My stealth
never
thought that it was warm so it continued to run rich.
Mark
Creekmore
1992 Black Stealth R/T TT
"Geddes, Brian J"
wrote:
> All -
>
> I've suspected for a while that my VR-4
was running rich at idle, so when I
> was getting an oil change today I
asked the guys if I could play with their
> emissions test
equipment. They obliged (for free! :), and I found that my
> car is
indeed running VERY rich at idle - to the tune of hydrocarbons in the
>
350-400 range. At cruising engine speeds (but not under load), the
HC
> levels were much lower and in normal ranges.
>
> What
could cause rich exhaust at idle? Bad O2 sensor? Bad plugs?
My
> precats have been gutted, but the engine was nice and warm so I don't
think
> this should make a difference. Any ideas?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> - Brian
> 1994 Pearl Yellow VR-4
> 1996
Green 3000GT (For Sale!!!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:22:49
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sanity Check
Erik,
Bravo for you.
Tein HA are the ONLY coilover that will fit the VR-4.
These are about $1,500
to $2,000. How much did you get them for. If it is
less than that
then you either found a great deal or have them for the
Base/SL model.
Have that clarified as there are minor differences between
the models and
years (most notably that infamous spring perch on a 1995 VR-4
with automatic
sunroof). But anyone will know that a Spyder suspension is
beefier than
a Base and those should not be labeled "for all years and
models of
3000GT." Good catch. Good luck.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 2:57 PM
To:
Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Sanity Check
Quick
question:
I just ordered the Tein HA Coilover kit for my 3000GT (base
model). On the
invoice, it lists the kit as "Tein HA Coilover Kit for
1990-99 3000GT, All
Models" Um... maybe I'm missing something, but
shouldn't the kit for the
base/SL models be *different* than the kit TT for
the TT models (at least
the springs anyway)? The stock spring rates are
substantially different,
and the weight distribution is slightly different,
too. Should I be
worried, or just assume that Tein knows what they're
doing?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:29:54
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Driver's seat in passenger side?
Also, when removing the
front seats the seat belt connectors go with them.
This is labeled as Inner
Seatbelt (item 10 on page 52A-21 of the manual on
CD). Since I will
have a race seat and be required by US law to wear the
stock seatbelt - I
have to keep this connection intact. I know the seat
belt is bolted
sideways into the seat but I'll have to figure a way to mount
this to the
floor where the rear bolt came out of the seat rail or find one
from an
Eclipse and bolt that down somehow. Any ideas?
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren
[mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 7:56
AM
To:
'Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Team3S: RE: Driver's seat in passenger side?
Well swapping the driver's
and passenger's seat does not work. The floor is
not actually flat but
it angles (higher in the center and lower toward the
outside) so if you try
to switch the seat then it is angled quite a bit
because of this
offset. Perhaps some spacers would do the trick.
It appears as
though everything will work (the hand controls are not too
buried to still be
useful, etc.) and the distance between the front mounting
points (15-1/2")
and the rear mounting points (16-7/8") are the same on both
sides. The
only problem is that the seatbelt connector is on the opposite
side at
first. I did not see if this can be easily switched last night.
I
was just trying to see how well the race seat fits in the driver's
position
(it fits well by the way).
The only advisable option would be
to buy a driver's seat from a right-hand
drive car and install it
properly.
For anyone taking notes ... these are 14mm nuts on the front of
the seats
and 14mm bolts holding down the back. There is one harness
under the
passenger seat to unplug and there is a stock radio amplifier (on
the 1995
VR-4 at least) under the passenger seat. The driver's seat has
two
harnesses plugged into the seat and one harness sitting idle. There
is
nothing under the driver's seat. The passenger seat weighs 40 pounds
and
the driver seat weighs 60 pounds. The fiberglass race seat that
is
replacing the driver seat weighs 16 pounds and with the harness will
be
about 20 pounds total.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 11:08:24
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil
Gauge Survey
I'm curious what everyone's oil gauges read during a 70 mph
cruise on the
expressway. After my recent engine rebuild, mine seems a
bit high (needle
is at 2/3 of the gauge at 70 mph, ~3000rpm) Thanks for
any input.
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 15:56:59
-0000
From: "Susan ." <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: mass airflow sensor
My VR4 has been hard to start up then
sputtering a bit upon warm up, then
runs fine. A mechanic has just
told me that the "mass airflow sensor's
connector is dirty" and will need to
be replaced. He quoted me the new part
at $785. Is there any
chance in finding a used/reconditioned part? He's
also stated that by
possibly utilizing a reconditioned part, the indicator
light will most
likely come back on as the 'barometric pressure sensor will
probably not
have been reset'. Any feedback on this? Currently my check
engine, aero, and oil indicator lights are all on. Help!
~
Susan
'91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 09:01:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
I got one sitting right -here-.
I
dont need it.
On Mon, 2 Apr 2001, Susan . wrote:
> My VR4 has
been hard to start up then sputtering a bit upon warm up, then
> runs
fine. A mechanic has just told me that the "mass airflow sensor's
>
connector is dirty" and will need to be replaced. He quoted me the new
part
> at $785. Is there any chance in finding a used/reconditioned
part? He's
> also stated that by possibly utilizing a reconditioned
part, the indicator
> light will most likely come back on as the
'barometric pressure sensor will
> probably not have been reset'.
Any feedback on this? Currently my check
> engine, aero, and oil
indicator lights are all on. Help!
>
> ~ Susan
> '91
VR4
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
I own a lotta cars. But in the best interests
of not having to continualy
edit this file to meet the needs of eight
specific lists, and no to awaken the
idiots within others who think -thier-
cars are the best and Im a fool for
having anything -but- thier kind of
car..I have not listed them. If Im on
the list you are reading..I have
one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 11:18:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
This sounds bogus - electrical connectors
that are dirty can be cleaned with
electrical contact cleaner. If the
connector is BROKEN, then you might have
to replace (or repair) that portion
of the electrical harness. If the mass
airflow sensor itself is defective,
that's another matter. I still think I
would try cleaning it before
replacing it.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Susan .
[SMTP:vr4girl@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 10:57 AM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
>
> My VR4 has been hard to
start up then sputtering a bit upon warm up, then
> runs fine. A
mechanic has just told me that the "mass airflow sensor's
> connector is
dirty" and will need to be replaced. He quoted me the new
> part
> at $785. Is there any chance in finding a used/reconditioned
part? He's
> also stated that by possibly utilizing a reconditioned
part, the indicator
>
> light will most likely come back on as the
'barometric pressure sensor
> will
> probably not have been
reset'. Any feedback on this? Currently my check
> engine,
aero, and oil indicator lights are all on. Help!
>
> ~
Susan
> '91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 11:23:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
Just re-read your message - what error
codes is your mechanic getting? If
the check engine light is lit, it's
gotta be squawking about something
specific. The fact that the oil
light is lit, but if it "runs fine" when
warm, you must have oil and
oil pressure. That and the aero light lit
sounds light something
totally disconnected, like maybe the mass air flow
connector.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001
11:19 AM
> To: 'Susan .';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
>
> This sounds bogus -
electrical connectors that are dirty can be cleaned
> with
>
electrical contact cleaner. If the connector is BROKEN, then you
might
> have
> to replace (or repair) that portion of the electrical
harness. If the mass
> airflow sensor itself is defective, that's another
matter. I still think
> I
> would try cleaning it before
replacing it.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
From: Susan . [SMTP:vr4girl@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 02,
2001 10:57 AM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
> >
> > My VR4 has been
hard to start up then sputtering a bit upon warm up,
> then
> >
runs fine. A mechanic has just told me that the "mass airflow sensor's
> > connector is dirty" and will need to be replaced. He quoted
me the new
> > part
> > at $785. Is there any chance in
finding a used/reconditioned part?
> He's
> > also stated that
by possibly utilizing a reconditioned part, the
> indicator
> >
> > light will most likely come back on as the 'barometric pressure
sensor
> > will
> > probably not have been reset'. Any
feedback on this? Currently my
> check
> > engine, aero,
and oil indicator lights are all on. Help!
> >
> > ~
Susan
> > '91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 11:25:11
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: mass airflow sensor
> My VR4 has been hard to start up
then sputtering a bit upon
> warm up, then runs fine. A mechanic
has just told me that
> the "mass airflow sensor's connector is dirty" and
will need
> to be replaced. He quoted me the new part at $785.
Is there
> any chance in finding a used/reconditioned part?
If the
sensor's connector is dirty, why didn't he just clean it? Why rip
you
off for $785?
> He's also stated that by possibly utilizing a
reconditioned
> part, the indicator light will most likely come back on
as
> the 'barometric pressure sensor will probably not have
> been
reset'. Any feedback on this? Currently my check
> engine,
aero, and oil indicator lights are all on. Help!
The check engine
light should go out if the problem is resolved. If you do
actually have
a bad barometric pressure sensor in your MAF sensor, swapping
in a different
MAF should resolve the problem and the light should go out.
If it doesn't,
disconnecting the battery for a while should reset the
stored
codes.
Three different warning lights being on doesn't sound
good. The other two
(oil and aero) lamps aren't related to the Check
Engine light. Was the oil
lamp on before the mechanic messed around
with the car? There's an oil
pressure sensor near the oil filter that
probably got its wire bumped off
the connector during an oil change or
something. The active aero problem
should be troubleshooted
separately. There are some members' sites that
describe how best to fix
those issues.
First thing I'd do is find a different mechanic.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 12:40:39
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Help!!! Need Mitsubishi specialty tools for 60k service.
I
understand to do the 60K service on our cars the following
Mitsubishi
specialty tools are required:
Tensioner Pulley Socket for
tensioning of timing belt - MD998752-01
End Yolk Holder for holding of
crankshaft pulley when tightening or
removing - MD990767-01
Well I
went to my local Mitsu dealer to order the tools. However when
looking up the
tools, they couldn't find them in the system.
If anyone has the tools and
are looking to sell/rent/lend them or if you
know where I could acquire the
tools, drop me a line.
I'm also looking for another specialty
tool.
Cylinder head bolt wring for loosening and tightening of cylinder
head
bolt - MD998051.
According to the service manual, this tool is
required to remove the
cylinder head.
Michael
Bulaon.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 12:59:14
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help!!! Need Mitsubishi specialty tools for 60k service.
I can't help you
with the 60k tools, but I can tell you that you don't need
the Mitsu special
tool for the head bolts. I bought a Craftsman 10mm hex
head ratchet
fitting when I did mine. I've done two engine teardowns and
one
re-assembly with this tool and had no problems at all. Good
luck.
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.netSent:
Monday, April 02, 2001 12:41 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Help!!! Need Mitsubishi specialty tools for 60k
service.
I
understand to do the 60K service on our cars the following
Mitsubishi
specialty tools are required:
Tensioner Pulley Socket for
tensioning of timing belt - MD998752-01
End Yolk Holder for holding of
crankshaft pulley when tightening or
removing - MD990767-01
Well I
went to my local Mitsu dealer to order the tools. However when
looking up the
tools, they couldn't find them in the system.
If anyone has the tools and
are looking to sell/rent/lend them or if you
know where I could acquire the
tools, drop me a line.
I'm also looking for another specialty
tool.
Cylinder head bolt wring for loosening and tightening of cylinder
head
bolt - MD998051.
According to the service manual, this tool is
required to remove the
cylinder head.
Michael
Bulaon.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 17:19:08
-0000
From: "Susan ." <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MAS continued...
I forgot to mention that I just had the clutch
replaced, and when I picked
it up from the mechanic, that is when the check
engine, oil, and aero lights
were all on. Also upon pick up from the
mechanic, the headlights are stuck
in the 'up' postition, but not on, and
the on/off switch is ineffective.
They explained it was probably just
a blown fuse, and there was paint damage
and scraping across my bumper that
they refused happened there; so after
much teeth gnashing, I finally took
the car and left with these issues.
It is now at a different mechanic,
but could the aero, headlights, and the
mass airflow sensor all be related
to some fuse issue?
Susan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 12:27:30
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS continued...
It appears that you have a serious claim to
file with the original shop.
Have you escalated your complaint in their
organization? Also, where are
you located? Maybe someone can
recommend a reputable place.
Still sounds like they left electrical stuff
disconnected.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Susan .
[SMTP:vr4girl@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 12:19 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: MAS continued...
>
> I forgot to mention that I
just had the clutch replaced, and when I picked
>
> it up from the
mechanic, that is when the check engine, oil, and aero
> lights
>
were all on. Also upon pick up from the mechanic, the headlights
are
> stuck
> in the 'up' postition, but not on, and the on/off
switch is ineffective.
> They explained it was probably just a
blown fuse, and there was paint
> damage
> and scraping across my
bumper that they refused happened there; so after
> much teeth gnashing,
I finally took the car and left with these issues.
>
> It is now at
a different mechanic, but could the aero, headlights, and the
>
>
mass airflow sensor all be related to some fuse issue?
>
>
Susan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 13:00:35
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS continued...
I just replaced another clutch this
weekend...you do not "need" to
disconnect any wires to change the clutch,
other than the speedo and reverse
indicator, which, if left unconnected
would not give you the indicators that
you are seeing.
I have a
theory that may be what you are seeing. If you are not careful,
when
removing or installing the tranny, you can damage a large wire loom
runs
from the firewall to a motor mount around the shifter levers(on tranny)
and
up to the top of the bell housing. I do not know what wires are
contained in this loom, but there are many and it may have gotten
damaged...there are also some connectors above the bell housing that are
related to this loom that may have been pulled loose?? This can be
inspected by removing the MAS and associated.
If it was not acting up
when you brought it too them, it shouldn't be acting
up now!! Go to
the top, with the business that messed up your car, until it
is resolved to
your satisifaction.
Good Luck,
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT (Hoping
for the best)
>From: "Susan ." <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: MAS continued...
>Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 17:19:08
-0000
>
>I forgot to mention that I just had the clutch replaced,
and when I picked
>it up from the mechanic, that is when the check engine,
oil, and
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 13:05:17
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS continued...
Oops...before anyone calls me on this
one...you also need to disconnect the
MAS...that makes 3 connections...And
O2 sensors if you have a Calif. or OBD2
car with 4 O2
sensors.
Mark
>From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
>To:
vr4girl@hotmail.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS continued...
>Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 13:00:35
-0500
>
>I just replaced another clutch this weekend...you do not
"need" to
>disconnect any wires to change the clutch, other than the
speedo and
>reverse
>indicator, which, if left unconnected would
not give you the indicators
>that
>you are seeing.
>
>I
have a theory that may be what you are seeing. If you are not
careful,
>when removing or installing the tranny, you can damage a large
wire loom
>runs from the firewall to a motor mount around the shifter
levers(on
>tranny)
>and up to the top of the bell housing. I
do not know what wires are
>contained in this loom, but there are many and
it may have gotten
>damaged...there are also some connectors above the
bell housing that are
>related to this loom that may have been pulled
loose?? This can be
>inspected by removing the MAS and
associated.
>
>If it was not acting up when you brought it too them,
it shouldn't be
>acting
>up now!! Go to the top, with the
business that messed up your car, until
>it
>is resolved to your
satisifaction.
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Mark
Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT (Hoping for the best)
>
>
>>From:
"Susan ." <
vr4girl@hotmail.com>
>>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>Subject:
Team3S: MAS continued...
>>Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 17:19:08
-0000
>>
>>I forgot to mention that I just had the clutch
replaced, and when I picked
>>it up from the mechanic, that is when the
check engine, oil,
and
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 11:39:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ecs
My ECS seems to be wigging out. Sometime it will start
flashing both
"tour" and "sport" until the car is turned off. Sometimes
it goes away
when the car is restarted, sometimes it continues. I hope
it's just
something simple like a short or loose connector somewhere, because
I
really don't feel like replacing any expensive parts.
Dave
'91
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:53:32
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Front
Struts
Egads, I just found out I need to have the front struts replaced
in my 1991
Stealth R/T Turbo. The car has the Electronically
controlled suspension,
which make it, of course, more expensive.
Is
there an aftermarket replacement, and if so, from where? Right now, the
estimate is $225.00 each for the parts. (i'll replace them
myself).
thanks for any input.
- -Thor
1991 Stealth R/T
Turbo (just bought last week)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:00:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Struts
How do you know that they need to be
replaced?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
ThorHolth@aol.com
[SMTP:ThorHolth@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 3:54 PM
>
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Front Struts
>
> Egads, I just found out I need to
have the front struts replaced in my
> 1991
> Stealth R/T
Turbo. The car has the Electronically controlled suspension,
>
which make it, of course, more expensive.
>
> Is there an
aftermarket replacement, and if so, from where? Right now, the
>
>
estimate is $225.00 each for the parts. (i'll replace them myself).
>
> thanks for any input.
>
> -Thor
>
> 1991
Stealth R/T Turbo (just bought last week)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:45:46
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Very rich exhaust at idle - VR4
> Check out the engine coolant
temperature sensor. My stealth
> failed emissions with hydrocarbons in
the 400 range and that
> was the problem.
But if the temp sensor
goes south, then wouldn't the temp gauge on the dash
read low? I
thought that coolant temp was what the "Temp" gauge on the
dash
measured... or am I smoking something?
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 18:27:14
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ecs
Yup, sure is. Under the strut covers (under the hood)
are some wires that
control the ECS. Often if someone puts pressure on
the cover, the wires
crack or separate from the connector. Also, I
understand the connector has
come loose, failed, etc. Check this
area first, that is 95% of the cases
where those lights flash.
Best of
luck!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
David Margrave
wrote:
>
> My ECS seems to be wigging out. Sometime it
will start flashing both
> "tour" and "sport" until the car is turned
off. Sometimes it goes away
> when the car is restarted, sometimes
it continues. I hope it's just
> something simple like a short or
loose connector somewhere, because I
> really don't feel like replacing
any expensive parts.
>
> Dave
> '91 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:17:17
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
MAS continued...
Not to mention the possibility of a ground strap that is
missing or
improperly attached. My '94 VR4 had one on the
downpipe. It could be one
or more fuses.
In any case, Susan, it
sounds to me based on what I have read that someone
is attempting to rip you
off either through unknowing incompetence or via
malicous intent.
If
you cannot get any further with this outfit you may have to cut your
losses
and seek assistance through a competent mechanic.
If you need a new MAF,
see Mr. Mohler's post and make him an offer he can't
refuse. I hear he
gives stuff away <g>.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Oops...before anyone calls me on this one...you
also need to
> disconnect the
> MAS...that makes 3 connections...And
O2 sensors if you have a
> Calif. or OBD2
> car with 4 O2
sensors.
>
> Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 21:33:05
-0500
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil Gauge Survey
Well before my last oil change (Changed to
Mobile 1 synth) Mine would read 1
tick below 1/2, now it reads 2-3 ticks
above the 1/2 mark at 70 MPH in 5th
(92 VR4). Hope that helps
....
Eric C. 92 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 10:08 AM
To: Team3s
Tech List
Subject: Team3S: Oil Gauge Survey
I'm curious what
everyone's oil gauges read during a 70 mph cruise on the
expressway.
After my recent engine rebuild, mine seems a bit high (needle
is at 2/3 of
the gauge at 70 mph, ~3000rpm) Thanks for any input.
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 23:38:04
EDT
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Gutting precatts and O2 sensor questions
Hey Guys.
I'm
planning on gutting my precats tommorrow. Thing is my car is a Cailfornia model
with the 4 o2 sensors. I was wondering what gutting the precats will do to these
sensors (and what if any code they might generate) as they are directly before
and after both precats. What is the purpose of having this o2 setup anyway? This
car is a NA, BTW.
Thanks!
Ron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 23:35:07
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Gettin down low
My car is about as low as it can go.
I'm
wondering if maybe it's too low.
Lord knows, it scrapes on everything from
driveways to matchbox covers.
(you can see it at
www.bazillionbooks.com, race photos,
Heartland Park
November 2000)
One of the ROWGs around here said that
if you go too low, you can encounter
bump steer.
Since my car reverts from
neutral to classic understeer when it is really,
really pushed, I wonder if
this could be bump steer. (I guess I don't
really know what bump steer
does.)
I am thinking about raising it up an inch (it has Ground Control
adjustable
suspension with camber plates) and increasing the camber to maybe
-3 or
- -3.5 deg to see if that helps.
Any thoughts out there on ride
height, camber settings, and such as that?
It is a street car, but not
used for commuting. I drive it to and from the
track, maybe 300 miles one
way.
Rich
94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD twin turbo
Ground Control
suspension, 550 front/315 rear, camber plates, stock struts
Michelin Pilot
street tires, Kuhmo race tires.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 21:48:24
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
biggest tires on an SL
Anyone know the widest tires that will fit on a 91
SL?
I already upsized once to 245 45 17, but would like to go up to
18". To
match circumference, looks like the following two sizes would
work:
245 40 18
280 (or 275) 35 18
I have a feeling that the 280
(or 275) might not fit. Anyone know for sure?
What are the dimensions for the
stock 18" tires in the later model year
VR4s?
Thanks
Ryan
Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:13:52
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: biggest tires on an SL
245/40 ZR18 is what I have on my car
on aftermarket 18" Konigs. This is
factory size for 18"
wheels...
I believe 265 / 35 is the next logical step, and ~should fit~ -
it fits the
VR4's just fine.
- -Cody
#-----Original
Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ryan Peterson
#Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:48 PM
#To:
Stealth List
#Subject: Team3S: biggest tires on an SL
#
#
#Anyone
know the widest tires that will fit on a 91 SL?
#
#I already upsized once
to 245 45 17, but would like to go up to 18". To
#match circumference,
looks like the following two sizes would work:
#245 40 18
#280 (or 275) 35
18
#
#I have a feeling that the 280 (or 275) might not fit. Anyone know
for sure?
#What are the dimensions for the stock 18" tires in the later model
year
#VR4s?
#
#Thanks
#
#Ryan
Peterson
#www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp
#
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:18:47
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gettin down low
I have heard people refer to bump steeras two
different things. One I'm
sure is wrong, but there might be more
opinions out there on this.
Anyway - the one I have heard alot is bump
steer - (in laymans terms)
meaning when you hit a bump, the cars tendency to
steer itself in one
direction or another
the other one i heard was:
when turning so much that the outer edge of the
car is effectively riding on
its bump stops, or the spring is so compressed
that it has no more useful
travel, thus creating a solid contact between the
frame and the road with no
effective suspension, meaning nothing to soak up
bumps, so when you hit a
bump in this situation, it can be actually quite
dangerous.
I swear I
remember reading somewhere (SCC maybe?) that in order to
reduce
bumpsteer, or avoid it, to cut your bumpstops (on cars with normal
lowering
springs).
Now - thats all I really know about the subject, so
someone please correct
me where I;m wrong....
-
-Cody
#-----Original Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
#Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:35 PM
#To:
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st#Subject:
Team3S: Gettin down low
#
#
#My car is about as low as it can
go.
#I'm wondering if maybe it's too low.
#Lord knows, it scrapes on
everything from driveways to matchbox covers.
#(you can see it at
www.bazillionbooks.com, race photos,
Heartland Park
#November 2000)
#
#One of the ROWGs around here said
that if you go too low, you can encounter
#bump steer.
#Since my car
reverts from neutral to classic understeer when it is really,
#really pushed,
I wonder if this could be bump steer. (I guess I don't
#really know what bump
steer does.)
#
#I am thinking about raising it up an inch (it has Ground
Control adjustable
#suspension with camber plates) and increasing the camber
to maybe -3 or
#-3.5 deg to see if that helps.
#
#Any thoughts out
there on ride height, camber settings, and such as that?
#
#It is a street
car, but not used for commuting. I drive it to and from the
#track, maybe 300
miles one way.
#
#Rich
#94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD twin
turbo
#Ground Control suspension, 550 front/315 rear, camber plates, stock
struts
#Michelin Pilot street tires, Kuhmo race tires.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 01:50:39
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: biggest tires on an SL
On my 1995 VR-4 ...
(Stock)
245/40/18 tires on 18x8.5J rims and stock offset.
(Racing) 255/40/17 tires on
17x8.5J rims and stock offset.
The rear will house a 275/xx/17 tire but
the front will not.
I have not tried a 265-width up front but even if it did
then its sidewall
is too "thin" or "short" to be supportive during hard
cornering and that is
why the 255 is recommended. Also, when at full
turn the wider wheels begin
rubbing the front of the splashguard or oil
cooler plastic covering.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com1995 VR-4 for
road racing and daily driver (17" race wheels and Yoko race
tires, Big Reds,
Rollbar, Harnesses, Race seat)
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
[mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001
01:14
245/40 ZR18 is what I have on my car on aftermarket 18"
Konigs. This is
factory size for 18" wheels...
I believe 265 /
35 is the next logical step, and ~should fit~ - it fits the
VR4's just
fine.
- -Cody
#-----Original Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#Sent:
Monday, April 02, 2001 11:48 PM
#
#What are the dimensions for the stock
18" tires in the later model year
#VR4s?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 23:12:56
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Gettin down low
Well, the second one of these definitions is definitely
not correct. The
first is a symptom of bump steer.
To understand
bump steer you have to think of how wheels move in relation to
the suspension
components. Static alignment (camber, castor, toe) really is
a poor
reflection by itself of how a wheel on a given car will react to
various
geomtery changes of the supension and weight transfer of car as
it
accelerates (brakes, turns, moves forward faster).
Typical
alignment settings try and optimize (compromise) between the best of
both
worlds for real world driving conditions and moptimized ride
comfort,
response, control and tire wear. In these compromises there
lie points
where vertical movement of the wheel causes changes in toe and
castor.
These chanegs are usually acceptably. However, excessive camber
settings
for a particular suspension design will exacerbate the occurence of
other
geometry settings during wheel movement. Lowering (or raising)
the
suspension can also cause this situation depending upon the design of
the
suspension and steering mechanism. Ideally the dreg link and tie
rods (or
equivalent mechanisms) should be parallel within the usable
suspension
range. When these get out of whack bump steer can be more
severe.
Bump steer happens most often on a racetrack on the outside front
wheel. If
you are actually experiencing bump steer on the track you
might try and
increase the toe a little. At odds with this is the fact
that some toe out
may reduce the front end push. Don't ignore the rear
suspension as you can
adjust it with some work to increase or decrease the
load on the front
wheels to help control bump steer. Nasty
game.
What I would suggest is to call GC and ask them what they
think. One of the
owners may have enough recent memory about
doing up the Stealth he worked
on to comment. Plus, these guys put some
damned fast cars on the track and
should know there stuff.
Having said
all that, I don't think you are necessarily experiencing bump
steer.
Usually you can feel it in the steering wheel just as though there
was
steering input that you didn't put there -- in fact that is exactly what
is
happening with bump steer. If this is not the case then you likely
do
not have a bump steer problem to worry about. Now that I think about
it
some more, try some more +ve toe (in relation to wherever it is now) and
see
what happens. You may induce bump steer but you may find a spot
where there
is a nice balance betwwen that phenomenon and less front end
push. Again,
think about the back end of the car here
too.
Enough babbling already.
Just for kicks, here's a bump steer
gauge I found a while back when looking
for alignment tools within reach of
the average person:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/102008.htmBarry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> I have heard people refer to bump
steeras two different things. One I'm
> sure is wrong, but there
might be more opinions out there on this.
>
> Anyway - the one I
have heard alot is bump steer - (in laymans terms)
> meaning when you hit
a bump, the cars tendency to steer itself in one
> direction or
another
>
> the other one i heard was: when turning so much that the
outer edge of the
> car is effectively riding on its bump stops, or the
spring is so
> compressed
> that it has no more useful travel, thus
creating a solid contact
> between the
> frame and the road with no
effective suspension, meaning nothing
> to soak up
> bumps, so when
you hit a bump in this situation, it can be actually quite
>
dangerous.
>
> I swear I remember reading somewhere (SCC
maybe?) that in order to reduce
> bumpsteer, or avoid it, to cut your
bumpstops (on cars with
> normal lowering
>
springs).
>
> Now - thats all I really know about the subject, so
someone please correct
> me where I;m wrong....
>
>
-Cody
>
> #-----Original Message-----
> #
> #
>
#My car is about as low as it can go.
> #I'm wondering if maybe it's too
low.
> #Lord knows, it scrapes on everything from driveways to matchbox
covers.
> #(you can see it at
www.bazillionbooks.com, race photos,
Heartland Park
> #November 2000)
> #
> #One of the ROWGs
around here said that if you go too low, you
> can encounter
> #bump
steer.
> #Since my car reverts from neutral to classic understeer when
it
> is really,
> #really pushed, I wonder if this could be bump
steer. (I guess I don't
> #really know what bump steer does.)
>
#
> #I am thinking about raising it up an inch (it has Ground
Control
> adjustable
> #suspension with camber plates) and
increasing the camber to maybe -3 or
> #-3.5 deg to see if that
helps.
> #
> #Any thoughts out there on ride height, camber
settings, and such as that?
> #
> #It is a street car, but not used
for commuting. I drive it to
> and from the
> #track, maybe 300
miles one way.
> #
> #Rich
> #94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD
twin turbo
> #Ground Control suspension, 550 front/315 rear, camber
plates,
> stock struts
> #Michelin Pilot street tires, Kuhmo race
tires.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 23:36:20
-0700
From: "John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: DR-500 Turbos
Does anybody else have the DR-500 turbos? They are
available from Matt at
Dynamic racing for $1299. I just put a set in my 91
VR-4 and am truely
amazed with the increased performance. I wanted to know if
anybody else has
used these turbos and to offer my personal experiences
with them to anybody
who is interested.
Thanks,
John Paul
Dauber
91 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 02:19:08
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gettin down low
Barry:
Thanks for the detailed
explanation.
I do remember this part from previous
discussions:
>Lowering (or raising) the
>suspension can also
cause this situation depending upon the design of the
>suspension and
steering mechanism. Ideally the dreg link and tie rods
(or
>equivalent mechanisms) should be parallel within the usable
suspension
>range. When these get out of whack bump steer can be
more severe.
It was explained to me that if the car is so low that the
suspension
components have gone beyond being parallel, and are pointing up
instead of
down, that I can get bump steer. I'll have to check that out.
>
>Just for kicks, here's a bump steer gauge I found a while back
when looking
>for alignment tools within reach of the average
person:
>http://www.bakerprecision.com/102008.htm
>
$379 is out
of MY reach.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 07:45:08
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gutting precatts and O2 sensor questions
I also have an OBDII
car with 4 O2 sensors, 2 before and 2 after the
pre-cats. Gutting the
pre-cats has not caused any problems. I haven't even
had so much as a
flicker out of the check engine light.
Michael
98 VR4
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of
RDO26@aol.com> Sent: Monday, April 02,
2001 23:38
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Gutting precatts and O2 sensor
questions
>
>
> Hey Guys.
>
> I'm planning on
gutting my precats tommorrow. Thing is my car
> is a Cailfornia model with
the 4 o2 sensors. I was wondering
> what gutting the precats will do to
these sensors (and what
> if any code they might generate) as they are
directly before
> and after both precats. What is the purpose of having
this o2
> setup anyway? This car is a NA, BTW.
>
>
Thanks!
>
> Ron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 09:04:23
-0400
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Very rich exhaust at idle - VR4
I'd think that it would read low.
The question is how low. It wasn't low enough
that I noticed it, but I wasn't
really looking. There's probably a fine line
between cold and warm. I think
that mine was reading something like 12 - 18
degrees to low.
All I can
tell you for sure is that they replaced it and I passed
emissions.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will chime
in.
Mark
"Gross, Erik" wrote:
> > Check out the
engine coolant temperature sensor. My stealth
> > failed emissions with
hydrocarbons in the 400 range and that
> > was the
problem.
>
> But if the temp sensor goes south, then wouldn't the
temp gauge on the dash
> read low? I thought that coolant temp was
what the "Temp" gauge on the dash
> measured... or am I smoking
something?
>
> --Erik
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#452
*********************