team3s Monday, April 2 2001 Volume 01 : Number 451

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Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 19:31:59 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: ADVICE

GREG RUSH wrote:

> 92 vr4 brand new motor. upgrade 15gs, saab 9000 BOV, gutted precats,
> ATR downpipe/Borla exhaust. HPC coated pistons mild porting
> heads; updated lash adjusters, new wires/plugs.
> synthetic oil at 2300 miles; 700 miles since
> used 1 quart; I dont know if burned that much
> because oil leak at pan.
> 10-11 psi, 94 octane. TMO data log; somthing doesn't feel right. EGT
> front bank <600f idle, while back bank 800f, in the manifolds. Under
> load they read the same. The front plugs #1 had black scum around rim and
>
> grey/brown/yellow glaze on insulator, while other 2 look great.

> #1 pistontop black; other 2 more grey.
> Timing was way retarded at first, but I think that would
> affect all plugs equally.My plans for future on fuel system will
> be upgraded pump, 550/60 inj. and either VPC or ARC-2.
> Question: could turbos be too much for stock fuel set up and
> increased boost?

Yes. You should have a pump upgade if going >15psi; Supra MkIV pump is
cheapest Denso (stock type) option, and what I use.

> If so how could it affect just the #1 piston/plug?

It essentially wouldn't, and if it DID, it would not generally be BLACK
SOOTY (rich indication) but bone white, with little aluminum
or blueblack balls of metal melted onto electrode, or melted
plug electrode.

> Did I go full synthetic to soon?

No. Some cars come from factory with Mobil 1 (Vettes etc), but some
like a little more friction/wear to seat the rings. You won't hurt anything

doing what you did.

> Or worse yet did the shop who replaced my
> guides not do it properly and that is why I have a black goo on just #1
> piston due to the valve guide leaking oil into the chamber.

One cylinder black could be: bad/fouling plug needing replacement;
stuck rich injector; bad coil (one plug in back bank would probably be
black too then, the one common to that coil); valveguide wear and
leakage of oil (would generally be an intake valve, as the vacuum in
manifold under idle/cruise would draw the oil into the intake port);
or a bad ring/broken piston ringland causing leak past rings; or a
leaking headgasket on that cylinder.. Computer
could be firing that injector strangely wrong/rich, but unlikely.
Try changing plug and see...

> Or could it be a weak coil?

I doubt it, see above; one rear plug should be bad too, usually; though
a bad plug WIRE could do it.

> I'll
> be troubleshooting with TMO.Se ya at DSM shootout and
> hopefully I will have a upgraded fuel system and good plugs.
> RUSHVR4

Hope that helps or gives ideas!
Jack Tertadian

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 22:01:47 -0500
From: GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ADVICE

Yes he is in florida.My price was 1500.00 I sent him my whole turbo. I beleive he said it was a 15c the old chargers usded these if I recall correctly. He is realy helpfull. but be prepaired to change the oil suply line and the water suply and return.The
new turbos that he sends back have a npt thread instead of banjo fitting threads.If he could retap the holes in the new housing for banjo fittings it would make the mod much easier.Also the rear turbo waste gate actuator arm needs two bends [make sure you
heat it before you bend the offsets and dont melt the acuators while doing this] put in it so to avoid the oil return line and I also had to grind one of the mounting tabs off and notch a bracket for clearance.The front turbo hits the radiator fan so I had
to grind on some plastic a little and shift the radiator forward a bit.Also the outlets and inlets are larger you will have to modify the air outlet tube that runs off the back turbo. I believe the inlet was 2 1/4" od and the outlet 2" od I used some
radiator hose for now.These are not exactly a drop in replacement but with a little plumbing work and a grinder its well worth the cost savings.These turbos realy want to pull hard on the top end but I just dont have the fuel system to support them.They do
not spool up like the 9bs but I am sure they will make up for it on the top end.I was running free flow exhaust but today I had to put my ATR cat on because my test pipe/homemade vibration eliminator cracked. I definatly noticed a difference, decline in top
end and spool up with the cat on. These babies want to breath.You can realy hear the turbines spooling. I just came in from a TMO data run and the air intake temps did not go above 100degees f. at 11 psi.Although its about 50 degrees out here in ohio.

RDO26@aol.com wrote:

> Hey there
>
> I can't help you with any words of advice. It does sound pecular that only that one cylinder is gunked. All I have heard is the cylinders at the end of the rail (1 and 4(?)) somnetime burn upt from lack of fuel. But that doesn't sound like your problem.
> However, I was wondering what your experience with Knight turbos was. The ones in Maimi, right? Did you have your turbos rebuilt to 15s? What was the price? If you don't mind, please let me know.
> Good luck on your problem.
>
> Ron
> In a message dated Sat, 31 Mar 2001 8:07:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net> writes:
>
> << I have 92 vr4 with a brand new motor. I upgraded the turbos to 15gs that
> came from knight turbos..I am using a saab 9000 BOV.Gutted pre cats with
> ATR down pipe and Borla exhaust. HPC coated pistons mild porting on the
> heads with updated lash adjustersKnew wires,plugs ect...I went to full
> synthetic oil at 2300 miles.I have put 700 miles on it since my oil
> change and used about 1 quart but i dont know if I have burned that much
> or not because I have an oil leak at the pan[fun].I am running about
> 10-11 psi on 94 octane.I finally got my hands on a good lap top to do
> some TMO data logging.Somthing does not feel right with the car.My EGT
> for the front bank reads less than 600f degrees at idle while the back
> bank EGT gauge reads 800f degrees both are in the manifolds.When under
> load they read prety much the same.I pulled the plugs out of the front
> bank and noticed #1 plug had black scum around the rim and a
> glaze[grey/brown/yellow] on the insulator while the other 2 did not they
> look great. I looked into the plug hole at the top of the piston and
> noticed #1 piston had black looking color while the other two were more
> of a grey.When I first got the car back I drove it a few hundred miles
> befor realizing the timming was way off [retarded] I think that it would
> affect all plugs equally.My plans for the future on the fuel system will
> be upgraded fuel pump, 550 or 660 inj. and either a VPC or a ARC-2.My
> question is could the turbos be to much for my stock fuel set up and
> increased boost?If so how could it affect just the #1 piston/plug?Did I
> go to full synthetic to soon? Or worse yet did the shop who replaced my
> guides not do it properly and that is why I have a black goo on just #1
> piston due to the valve guide leaking oil into the chamber.Or could it
> be a weak coil? Any input would be greatly apreciated!! Meanwhile I will
> be trouble shooting the car with the TMO.Se ya at the DSM shootout and
> hopefully I will have a upgraded fuel system and good plugs.
> RUSHVR4
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
> >>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 05:21:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ADVICE

The intake temp that the TMO reports is from the sensor in the MAS.
You weren't thinking that the 100ºF temp was at the plenum were you?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "GREG RUSH" <rush@siscom.net>
To: <RDO26@aol.com>
Cc: <team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2001 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ADVICE

<snip>
I just came in from a TMO data run and the air intake temps did not
go above 100degees f. at 11 psi.Although its about 50 degrees out
here in ohio.
<snip>

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Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 17:39:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ADVICE

Hi Greg,

I'd put in six new plugs (0.030gap)and see if the VR4
feels better.

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net> wrote:

>I pulled the plugs out of the front
> bank and noticed #1 plug had black scum around the
> rim and a
> glaze[grey/brown/yellow] on the insulator while the
> other 2 did not they
> look great. I looked into the plug hole at the top
> of the piston and
> noticed #1 piston had black looking color while the
> other two were more
> of a grey.When I first got the car back I drove it a

>.Se ya at
> the DSM shootout and
> hopefully I will have a upgraded fuel system and
> good plugs.
> RUSHVR4
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

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Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 01:23:45 -0600
From: "Greg Gonzales" <greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: What to Gap Spark Plugs at for Blitz DSBC

I am going to replace the spark plugs on my car and would like to know what
gap to set them to since I am also going to install a Blitz DSBC.

Also is it advisible to change my wires at the same time? My car has 40k on
it now but is a 92

Thanks
Greg G
92 RT TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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End of team3s V1 #451
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