team3s
Thursday, March 22
2001 Volume 01
: Number
442
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:18:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: head gasket
> I do almost all of my own work and get
satisfaction not
> only from saving money, but, from accomplishing a
task
> that some would leave to others.
Ditto. Plus I try to
document most things on my web site (with help
from Jim and others here at
Team3S, thanks guys).
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Dusan Simovic"
<
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>;
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Danny
Melton"
<
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>;
"Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 21, 2001 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: head
gasket
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:03:09
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Viscous Coupling Unit needed
Hey everyone,
A good buddy of
mine is trying to find a working viscous coupling for the
center diffential
on a 5 speed Getrag. He just bought his 92 Stealth R/T TT
last week
and has determined that the viscous is shot. Obviously with the
"no
parts availble" status of our trannies, trying to get a good one is
going to
be difficult. I know Team3S members like Jack T, Brad Bedell and
Jim
Berry have torn into the 5 speeds, and I'm hoping someone out there has
parts of a 5 speed available. If you do, please shoot off an e-mail to
Russ
at:
conquest_tsi@hotmail.comThanks,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org_________________________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 08:25:07
+1000
From:
M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.auSubject:
Team3S: transfer case
Hi
Does anyone have a second-hand input
shaft transfer case and transfer
case gear from the gear box to the transfer
case for sale? Can anyone
source these for me? Are there other
options?
Michael
1992 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:59:12
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Update on Carbon Fiber Hoods (2nd Gen)
OK - heres the low
down. I have decided against dealing with
~carbonfiberhoods.com~
because I have found they are a fairly new company,
and their pricing quoted
is wrong (unless they wanna lose money) on hoods
ordered through
Carisma. I contacted Carisma directly, and the actual cost
is $550 per
hood, with a minimum order of about 10 hoods. Unfortunately -
They
recommend (and I understand why) not adding any type of Hood Scoops and
such,
and that raising the hood in order for a strut bar would raise costs
alot
because things might have to be custom fit, and it might be a trial and
error
type basis (this is from my mouth - not theirs). The reason
scoops
aren't really recommended is that in using a single piece of carbon
fiber,
it would have to be stretched beyond its design limit for the scoop,
and
would cause a brittle area in the hood. Anyway - our best bet is a
stock
looking second gen hood. Hood pins are not required, but are
recommended in
order for the hood to last longer - there is less stress on
the hood.
Carbon Fiber is strong, but can also be brittle/fragile. The
finish is
carbon fiber, and can be left that way (smooth), or if you want it
to be
extremely shiny, clear coating is recommended, and will also protect
(a
little) against rock chips and such - the good thing is that if you leave
it
bare (whether clear coated or not) - you will never see rock chips again
(on
the hood). They can also be painted the color of your car with no
problems,
and any paint shop will be able to do this (its exactly like
painting
fiberglass). Time frame on a first, finished hood is
approximately 10 - 14
days, with additional hoods taking 1 - 2 days
max. Shipping will be via
truck - with 3 day delivery times to just
about everywhere in the US (may be
as soon as 2 days, but as many as 5 days
or so).
Here's the money part:
Each hood costs $550.00
Shipping
(individual) is $150
Total per hood is $700.00
I have more than 10 people
interested, its just if we can come together and
get this done. I will
be taking orders through my company - Paradise
Electronics, but those living
in Texas (where I am) will need to send the
money to me individually in form
of check or money order. Everyone else can
send money order, check, or
use their credit card through my business. I
will have to charge a
small % on credit cards just to absorb my cost that I
pay
MC/Visa/Discover/Amex. In - state people - that would like to order
on
their credit card - I am sorry, but I would have to charge sales
tax. I am
just trying to work this out and make it as convenient as
possible. - I Hope
you all understand.
One note on shipping - if
someone wants to order like 4 or 5, or there are 4
or 5 people in the
immediate area, they can get shipping at $40 per hood.
Again - Any
questions, please e-mail me at
overclck@starband.net and I will
see
if I can get some info for ya.
Thanks
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 18:17:07
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Update
on Carbon Fiber Hoods (2nd Gen)
I am wary of dealing with a company that
is not skilled enough to build a
hood to stock specs and add a slight bulge
to it. I believe we only need an
additional 5 mm of clearance for a low
profile strut tower bar. I could be
wrong though. Also, since when do
you have to "stretch" carbon fiber to add
a scoop? Is it not possible
to add a hole in the main hood sheet and then
join a seperate scoop mold into
it? My understanding of composites is
somewhat limited, but this seems
like basic stuff. Granted, the GT Pro hood
is looking more and more like a
white elephant with each passing day, but
they do have a working prototype
with bar clearance, a scoop and underhood
air ducting. So obviously it
CAN be done.
Jeff V.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 17:24:04
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Update on Carbon Fiber Hoods (2nd Gen)
It can be done - but
who wants a two piece CF hood? the additional
clearance needed is more
on the ~inches~ range. you figure the hood sits
within 1/4 to half an
inch above the strut tower (easier to see for 1st gen
people), and that the
sturt bar will be at least 2 - 3" tall (2
conservatively. its not that
they can't - its just the price factor. The
bulge is already there in
the middle of the hood - the problem is on the
sides where it is
contoured.
- -Cody
#-----Original Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff VanOrsdal
#Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 5:17 PM
#To:
Team3s Tech List
#Subject: Team3S: Update on Carbon Fiber Hoods (2nd
Gen)
#
#
#I am wary of dealing with a company that is not skilled
enough to build a
#hood to stock specs and add a slight bulge to it. I
believe we
#only need an
#additional 5 mm of clearance for a low profile
strut tower bar. I could be
#wrong though. Also, since when do you have
to "stretch" carbon fiber to add
#a scoop? Is it not possible to add a
hole in the main hood sheet and then
#join a seperate scoop mold into
it? My understanding of composites is
#somewhat limited, but this seems
like basic stuff. Granted, the GT Pro hood
#is looking more and more like a
white elephant with each passing day, but
#they do have a working prototype
with bar clearance, a scoop and underhood
#air ducting. So obviously it
CAN be done.
#
#Jeff V.
#
#
#*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 19:49:43
-0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
15G turbos needed
Hello everybody,
I blew my front turbo. If anybody
is selling their 15G turbos, or knows
of a good deal anywhere,
please let
me know.
thank you very much
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 17:01:00
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Viscous Coupling Unit needed
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Curt Gendron <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
>
Hey everyone,
>
> A good buddy of mine is trying to find a working
viscous coupling for the
> center diffential on a 5 speed Getrag.
Talk to Frank at Kormex --- he probably has a used unit or two laying
around.
They don't seem to fail a lot so maybe they have a pile of
them.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 19:22:38
-0600
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: head gasket
I have to pipe in a bit here. Just because you
bring it to a
shop/dealer. Even a reputable
one does not guarantee
that you will get a "professional"
mechanic. Believe me, I
worked
around a lot mechanics. Every place will have a range of
capabilities in
regards to
their
workers.
$0.02
Shane
>I'll add my 2 hp worth here
(not done making puns are we?) and say that I
>just did a Big Red
install. I did it with a friend who knows his stuff (not
>about our
cars but in general). I was fine that everything was
fitting
>together but will take it to my Meineke shop or Performance shop
for their
>approval that I didn't cap one brake line
shut.
>
>Same thing with head gaskets, downpipes, exhaust headers,
etc. Feel free to
>do them yourself but get it checked to be doubly
sure about it.
>
>The K&N FIPK was one thing but trusting my
life to four very small brake
>lines and two very large calipers while
doing 145 mph approaching a
>90-degree turn ??? this is where I prefer to
have it double-checked by a
>professional.
>
>The rollbar was
the same way. It is installed perfectly but a Safety
>Technician
approved by the Porsche Club of America must certify its
>installation
before I am allowed on the track with them. There are
>differences
between the Shadetree Mechanic (brake bleeding, air filters) and
>the DIY
(valve timing, brakes, suspension,
etc.).
>
>--Flash!
>dschilberg@freemarkets.com
>
>3Si
#577
>1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, rollbar, harnesses, and a custom spark
plug
>plate
>http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm <
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Jim Berry
[mailto:fastmax@home.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001
12:14 PM
>To: Dusan Simovic;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st; Danny
Melton; Merritt
>Subject: Re:
Team3S: head gasket
>
>There is some merit [ sorry about that ] in
what you say, but, if everyone
>followed that path there would only be one
generation of painters.
>
>While head gaskets, without a mentor,
might be a little ambitious I think
>too much of the car culture is being
left to the pros --- if I page through
>turbo magazine, it seems that the
owner of the hot new car provides only
>a checkbook, while the pros do all
the work.
>
>I do almost all of my own work and get satisfaction not
only from saving
>money, but, from accomplishing a task that some would
leave to others.
>
>EOS [end of
sermon]
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:55:19
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Greedy EGT!- Results, Thanks, a bit more help with the Ground
Jeff
Lucius,
After I connected the ground wire to a real ground on the car
(and not to
another positive on the rheostat switch), I was able to drive the
car and
not affect the temp reading by dimming up/down the
rheostat.
The readings are basically the same as before:
340 -
Idle, after driving the car 1/2 hr, and letting it cool down
extensively (5
min). A/C off.
370 - Idle (A/C on)
(Notice the +30 deg C difference
for A/C usage. When running your car hard,
don't forget to turn the A/C
off. Every once in a while I forget though.
620 - 40 mph cruise
control, 4th gear
750 - 70 mph cruise control, 5th gear
720 - 70 mph
cruise control, 6th gear
I did not get a chance to observe higher
numbers, because the traffic did
not permit me to do a high speed
run.
>I wonder if all the above numbers are off by 70 deg C, or
increased by
16.28%. >In the first scenario, my reading of 950 would
be 880, or in the
2nd scenario >it would be 795 deg C. Of course I
like the % difference
better, since the >readings would be lower. I
shifted early out of 4th gear
because I was scared >of such a high EGT
temp (the 950).
Conclusion: The temps seem similar to what I got the nigh
before, except I
had more patience to get the true idle temp. At a
redlight it goes down to
about 450.
Also, I forgot to mention last
time that my spark plugs are still the
original factory ones (@ 43,000 miles
now). They have not been regapped. I
will try to regap them ASAP
to .32. First, I want to finish my brother's
EGT wiring on his 94 TT,
to see if his temps are lower, because he has his
new plugs gapped at
.34.
Worry:
If the previous day, when I saw EGT temps of 950 (@ 6000
RPM in 4th gear),
and if they were true, then I should be worried about
everything from
pistons to turbos withstanding that heat. Also, the
rear turbo had to be
hotter than the front one. I'l look throught the
archives to see what EGT
temps other people gave with regards to MAX. I
seem to remember 875 as max.
However, during the few times I did high speed
runs, I wonder what EGT temps
I hit. So far, 4th gear seemed the worst,
hence I did not try to redline
it. Once I swiched in 5th gear, the
temps went down to 900.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:53:27
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mechanic shops (was: head gasket)
Point taken. I did
not fully describe the place where I get my car
serviced.
* The owner,
Stan Cleva, is an ex-Can Am racer (pix of him in open- and
closed-cockpit
cars at Sebring, Daytona, etc.) as well as his own collection
of exotic
cars.
* They deal only in European and Japanese cars (or the like such as
Lexus
and Toyota or Saab and things) and routinely have an M3, the rare
M5,
Porsche Turbo, Audi S4, and the occasional Italian fleet
* The head
mechanic is a certified Ferrari mechanic with lots of years
experience there
(he is also the local PCA-certified safety technician)
* They build/replicate
many cars for the annual Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix
So yes I do respect
their work although every shop has the bad story to go
along with them (this
one for instance did not tighten the lug nuts on a
friend's car and off came
the wheel and bent lots of stuff). But in working
with as many cars as
they do it is expected.
I like the occasional stop in the garage to see a
Triumph Spitfire with a
Cosworth V8 engine or an authentic Shelby set up for
racing at Sebring or
the like with a staggering original odometer showing
only 200 miles or
something. That thing was worth well over $1
million.
Yes the work is a little more expensive here but it is well
worth it. A few
dollars here for lots of dollars down the road.
They even warned me of
impending danger on the car because of a leaking slave
cylinder and things
like that. Good luck to anyone else who has had
troubles with shops.
Please stop in at AutoTech Performance Cars,
http://www.autotechperformance.com/,
near Pittsburgh, PA and tell them Flash
sent ya. They do great
work.
- --Flash!
A good bit of safety mods on the 1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Shane Thoms
[mailto:shanethoms@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 20:23
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: head gasket
I have to pipe in a bit here. Just because
you bring it to a
shop/dealer. Even a reputable
one does not
guarantee that you will get a "professional"
mechanic. Believe me, I
worked
around a lot mechanics. Every place will have a range of
capabilities in
regards to
their
workers.
$0.02
Shane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:35:18
-0800
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Open track newbie
Hello all--and especially you
open-trackers:
Spring is here and I'm about to get my VR-4 out on the
track at Thunderhill
in Northern California. I've owned this car for almost a
year and have done
a lot of barnstorming through the mountains, but I've
never had it on a real
track.
If I luck out on the waiting list I'll
spend Monday with the SF Region Club
Z at Thunderhill--and then I'll go back
for two days in April with the
Thunderhill Street School.
I've been
lurking on the list for about a year and have learned a lot from
you all, and
love reading Merritt's track reports. Now I'd really appreciate
any tips or
words of wisdom before I don my helmet.
My car is basically stock: stock
engine, stock ECS suspension. New
Porterfield cryoed front rotors and their
R4S pads all the way around. SS
brake lines. Castrol SRF fluid. This is my
daily driver, so I'm on street
tires (Kumho 712).
I'm going to get an
alignment and am considering setting a bit of negative
camber. I don't want
to chew up the inner edges on the street but I don't
want to waste the outer
edges at the track (especially the fronts)--is there
a happy
medium?
Tire pressures?
Can you notice any effect from the Active
Aero?
How much gas in the tank for best weight
distribution?
I'm not going to be charging too hard the first time
out and they will have
instructors--though they probably won't be too
experienced with our cars. I
know I need to save the brakes and I know I need
to try to save the front
tires.
Any sage advice from you open-track
veterans? Any tips, guidance, or
reminders of "don't leave home without
it" would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
‹Jim
- -------------------------------------------
Jim
Elferdink
1994
VR-4
===========================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 01:40:17
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Open track newbie
Jim,
I am in no way
experienced in open track so run through the posts of
RMerritt, JChristian,
JMohler, GKuo, JBerry, BBedell, KMiddaugh, etc.
However, to anyone who is
skipping the advice of reading past open track
posts -- THE FIRST THING
RECOMMENDED FOR YOUR CAR is Brad's Big Red Brake
Kit. If you are
serious about going fast on these tracks then you had
better know how to slow
down your car first. Our cars are 4,000 pounds (2
tons) and easily
twice the weight of some cars on the course (a friend has a
1989 Supercharged
Toyota MR2 and it can be in the neighborhood of
2,300-2,800 pounds and a
gutted Probe GT is light too and those are on the
course
sometimes).
That being said (and all fatherly advice out of the
way) I will say that
you can have plenty of fun on the track without Big
Reds. These cars are a
blast in corners at 45 mph in second gear with
gobs of torque. However,
point #2 if you aren't going to add Big Reds
... go to a driving school or
street course from an Audi or Subaru club (or
the coveted Porsche Carrera C4
owner) and get some lessons in AWD and a car
on a race course.
The first time it steps out you will
compensate with the wheel or relax
the throttle or worse yet hit the brakes
and these will send you sailing off
the road. You need to know it is
coming and trust the AWS and AWD as it
tugs and pulls and pushes you through
the corner. Also, riding with someone
who knows how to take turns saves
time even if you are in a rental car
(thanks for the lessons,
JChristian). :)
Ask seriously at the track for someone who
is willing to teach someone in
an AWD car that is a mammoth weight to
stop. Don't get out of third gear
the first day at the track.
Christ. Third gear topped out on my VR-4 is
upwards of 110 mph and that
is nearly 170 feet per second. FEET PER SECOND.
When you see a turn 200
feet away you have less than one second to brake,
downshift, and turn in as
you prepare to accelerate easily through the apex
where you apply full
throttle to the exit. One second. One-Mississippi
BAM!
That's how much time you have before the BAM is you hitting the wall
that you
couldn't turn in front of.
I don't mean to scare anyone but I
have a picture of a R/T TT that ran
off the road because the back end got
loose and the driver hit the brakes
which sent the car into a clockwise spin,
hit the tire barrier backwards and
on the passenger's side, then rolled over
onto the roof. That was at about
70 mph into a 90-degree
right-hander. He did not know how to handle the car
and he nearly
totaled it and was lucky to only have a scratch.
My advice
(sorry to be so long-winded) is to buy some cheap tires and
practice on the
lone mountain roads. The cheap tires squeal much earlier
and tell you
to ease up. Soon you will be able to drive through the squeal
(turn the
radio down to ease hearing the squeal) and then you can upgrade to
better
tires or brakes or boost controller, etc. Walk before you can
run.
I am making sure my car can stop and is safe before adding
any speed mods
to it. Not the easiest to do but this makes me more
confident. The car
already has a top end of over 150 mph and I don't
know anyone who can hit
anything over 140 mph on any road course yet (on a
mostly stock car that is)
so I don't need any top end or launches out of the
corner yet. Slowly.
Is anyone still reading? Brakes,
racing pads, rotors, good brake fluid,
good tires. Those are all a
priority in order to be safe, fun, and good the
first few times out.
Then add your exhaust, boost controller, intercoolers,
turbos, injectors,
etc.
Get the old shoe polish out and chalk the tire edge
in a few places and
play with tire pressure. Everyone likes them
different. Definitely higher
than street. Depends how steep the
turns are.
There is never a straightaway long enough to
see if the Active Aero is
helpful or not. Also, I am not consistent
enough (or have to hang my arm
out the window too many times for people to
pass) that I can not run
consistently but I believe the Active Aero *does*
help a little. Anything
to deflect the airflow (like a plane wing) will
help.
Forget weight distribution with the gas
tank. With both turbos spooling
all the way around a 2-mile track ...
you will need a full tank just to run
4 hours. Boy I miss the VTEC on
the Honda. I think I calculated between
8-12 mpg on the last track
day.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds, rollbar, and harnesses
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Elferdink
[mailto:macintosh@sunra.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001
00:35
Hello all--and especially you open-trackers:
Spring is here
and I'm about to get my VR-4 out on the track at Thunderhill
in Northern
California. I've owned this car for almost a year and have done
a lot of
barnstorming through the mountains, but I've never had it on a
real
track.
If I luck out on the waiting list I'll spend Monday with
the SF Region Club
Z at Thunderhill--and then I'll go back for two days in
April with the
Thunderhill Street School.
I've been lurking on the
list for about a year and have learned a lot from
you all, and love reading
Merritt's track reports. Now I'd really appreciate
any tips or words of
wisdom before I don my helmet.
My car is basically stock: stock engine,
stock ECS suspension. New
Porterfield cryoed front rotors and their R4S pads
all the way around. SS
brake lines. Castrol SRF fluid. This is my daily
driver, so I'm on street
tires (Kumho 712).
I'm going to get an
alignment and am considering setting a bit of negative
camber. I don't want
to chew up the inner edges on the street but I don't
want to waste the outer
edges at the track (especially the fronts)--is there
a happy
medium?
Tire pressures?
Can you notice any effect from the Active
Aero?
How much gas in the tank for best weight
distribution?
I'm not going to be charging too hard the first time
out and they will have
instructors--though they probably won't be too
experienced with our cars. I
know I need to save the brakes and I know I need
to try to save the front
tires.
Any sage advice from you open-track
veterans? Any tips, guidance, or
reminders of "don't leave home without
it" would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
Jim
Elferdink
1994 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:31:55
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open track newbie
>. Now I'd really appreciate
>any
tips or words of wisdom before I don my helmet.
>
>My car is
basically stock: stock engine, stock ECS suspension. New
>Porterfield
cryoed front rotors and their R4S pads all the way around. SS
>brake
lines. Castrol SRF fluid. This is my daily driver, so I'm on street
>tires
(Kumho 712).
Take out the R4S pads and install a new set of R4 pads.
You'll go through a
set of pads over the weekend, so put the R4S pads back in
on Monday.
>
>I'm going to get an alignment and am considering
setting a bit of negative
>camber. I don't want to chew up the inner edges
on the street but I don't
>want to waste the outer edges at the track
(especially the fronts)--is there
>a happy medium?
Not a problem.
Crank in 1-2 deg negative camber, +0.15 (positive) toe.
Rears should be stock
toe.
>
>Tire pressures?
44/38 cold. Use white shoepolish to check
if the tires are rolling under.
Any racer can help you read the
tires.
>
>Can you notice any effect from the Active Aero?
No.
>
>How much gas in the tank for best weight distribution?
You'll
go through nearly a tank a day, so fill it up in the morning or
you'll have
to leave the track to get more gas.
>
>I'm not going to be
charging too hard the first time out and they will
have
>instructors--though they probably won't be too experienced with our
cars. I
>know I need to save the brakes and I know I need to try to save
the front
>tires.
Brakes yes, tires no.
Just rotate the
tires side to side or front to rear once or twice over the
weekend and you
will be fine. At the speeds you will be running, the car
should be handling
perfectly neutral, so you won't be overstressing the
fronts. We don't
experience understeer until the car is pushed really,
really hard, and I
doubt if the instructor will let you do that yet. If you
see abnormal wear up
front, you probably are not driving correctly, and
your instructor should fix
that.
Here's the correct driving procedure: Brake and downshift in a
straight
line. Turn in. Back on the gas before the apex (feed it in gently
then hard
on). Clip the apex (touch the curb). Drift to the track out pylon
(touch
the curb). Pretty simple, eh? No fancy stuff like trail braking for
us.
Don't need it.
Be sure to pull the front tires and check the brake
pads, especially
Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday. Bring a flashlight
and a mirror so
you can check the inner pads. Those are the ones you can't
see very well,
and for some strange reason (Murphy's Law?), they wear
fastest. Whenever
I've scored a rotor, it's always on the inside! You
will be amazed how
fast those pads will wear down, especially on Sunday --
one session you'll
have enough pad depth and next thing they will be down to
the metal. You
don't want to score those new Porterfield rotors, so watch the
pads. Bring
the R4S pads along as spares. If the edges of the R4 pads are
turning
white, you are hitting 1400 F and you better figure out some way to
cool
those pads next time out. The hotter they get, the faster they wear. I
went
through a set of R4 pads in one day at Road America.
Ask your
instructors to help you concentrate on correct braking. Do it
right, and the
pads last longer.
The best brake-saving technique I've found is to not hit
the brakes at any
speed over 100 mph -- just coast down to 100, then hit the
brakes very hard
(don't BANG on them) for the shortest amount of time. The
longer you apply
the brakes, the hotter they get. The absolute worst thing
you can do is
s..l..o..w..l..y apply the brakes (like we do on the street) or
trail brake
- -- they just get hotter that way.
When you pull into the
pits, drop your instructor and then drive around the
paddock area for 10
minutes or so, cooling off the brakes. When you pull
into your parking area,
DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKES. Coast to a stop or leave
it in gear and cut the
engine. If you touch the brakes, you will put
white-hot pads up against a
red-hot rotor, and this can warp the rotor.
Hang around your car for five
minutes or so, then roll it forward a half
turn of the wheel, to move the
pads to a different spot. You won't be able
to go anywhere near those wheels
for 15 minutes, they will be so hot.
(Hey guys: Do you suppose we could
use our emergency brakes to stop the car
for parking? That's a different set
of brakes, right? I must admit I've not
spent much time with the rears --
only replaced the pads back there one
time -- so I'm not all that familiar
with the emergency brakes.)
>
>Any sage advice from you
open-track veterans? Any tips, guidance, or
>reminders of "don't leave
home without it" would be greatly appreciated!
Be prepared to do a
pad change Saturday night or sometime Sunday. Bring
tools, spare pads,
gloves, and maybe even coverhauls (brake work is
DIRTY!). Learn how to do a
pad change before you go. It's not all that
difficult (except for the first
time, when it's a little confusing), and
there is a 95% chance that you'll
either have to change pads or go home
early on Sunday.
Apply
anti-sieze compound to your wheel studs before you go. They will
get
extremely hot (from the brakes) and sieze on you. I broke off three
wheel
studs before discovering this little trick. A little of that stuff goes
a
long way, so don't slop it on.
Remove the dust shield from the front
rotors. It keeps cooling air from
getting in.
Run cooling ducts to
the rotors (see
www.bazillionbooks.com, race
photos,
to see where to mount the scoops)
Torque your lug nuts before
each session (they loosen up) when the wheels
are cold.
You'll need a
floor jack, two jack stands, torque wrench (95 lb cold),
brake tools, oil,
tire pressure gauge and brake fluid.
Watch the temperature gauge. If you
run a lot of boost, it'll heat the car
up fast. The best way around that is
to run in higher gears.
Keep the shiny side up.
Remember, we have
magnificent cars and they are designed for what you are
about to do. The only
weak part of our cars is the brakes. Once you fix
those with a set of Big
Reds, you will be able to keep up with anything on
the track, including M3s,
911s, 930s, C5s, 5.0s -- anything, that is,
except twin turbo Porsches and
Vipers. But until you get better brakes,
lesser cars will catch up to you
under braking, and there isn't anything
you can do about it. So just relax,
listen to your instructor, learn the
proper way to drive and brake, and let
those lesser cars go by. When you
get brakes, you'll destroy them.
Let
us know how it went. We've never gotten a track report from
Thunderhill.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 06:34:37
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: transfer case
You can check at the trany shops I list on the
Garage Page at my web
site to see if they can help. Kormex (Frank Martin)
would be first on
my list to check with.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 21, 2001 3:25 PM
Subject: Team3S: transfer
case
Hi
Does anyone have a second-hand input shaft transfer case
and transfer
case gear from the gear box to the transfer case for sale?
Can
anyone
source these for me? Are there other
options?
Michael
1992
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 09:01:03
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open track newbie
> >My car is basically stock: stock
engine, stock ECS suspension. New
> >Porterfield cryoed front rotors
and their R4S pads all the way around. SS
> >brake lines. Castrol SRF
fluid. This is my daily driver, so I'm on street
> >tires (Kumho
712).
- ---
If youre on stock brake calipers..the pad choice wont
matter. You'll
easily pass 1200-1400d, cook the pads, and boil the
fluid unless you
mentally force yourself to keep things kinda
sane.
YMMV...etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:32:37
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Street Tyres
I have to change my tyres tomorrow for the MOT (UK)
what do you guys think
of the Kumho tyres for street/highway use given that
the UK weather in
usually rain dry rain snow dry frost rain all within 10
mins I don't want to
got to high spec/price tyres at the moment as I am due
to change my
wheels/tyres in 5 weeks. 235/45 17 Marshal PR II fitted at
moment.
-
--
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 10:07:55
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What about NA cars? WAS: Open track newbie
Regarding stock
brakes (or lack thereof):
While the NA cars are lighter than the TTs,
they're still pushing
3700-3800lbs with gas and a driver. About 3400lbs curb
weight - gonna weigh
mine soon. And we don't have the larger
stock calipers up front (let alone
big reds).
Soooo... is it realistic for me to be able to go to a road
course (SIR or
PIR) for the first time, learn a few things, have some fun,
and still be
able to stop when the day is over on my STOCK brakes? I
have an extra set
of stock pads/shims/etc. that I'll take with me since my
current ones are
about 30-40% worn. I've changed the pads on the rears
before, and it wasn't
that hard, so I'm pretty sure I can do the fronts,
too. That is if the
pads/calipers/rotors/fluid will put up with the
abuse. This will be my
first time, so I don't think I'll be going
too crazy out there, and I won't
be going as fast as the TTs, either.
Am I asking for trouble with a NA car with stock brakes at the
track? Or
can I go stock this time and then mess with the brakes as I
get
better/faster?
Darren mentioned getting cheap tires to "play" and
learn - I could put some
on my stock 16" wheels... good idea for the
first few times, or should I
just go with my 17" wheels and nice
tires?
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT)
76,000 mi
SOON: Firehawk SZ50EP 2[45]5/40/17 tires, 17x8.5" wheels
SOON:
Aftermarket Springs/Shocks/Struts (GC/GAB?)
Magnacor KV85, NGK
plugs 0.040", K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV CC,
M1 10W30, OEM filter,
SZ50 245/50/ZR16, 16x8" stock wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around
corners" Corolla 74,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:50:19
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Open track newbie
Okay, Geoff, you've goaded me into
contributing to this discussion.
1. I drive stock calipers all
the time - the pad choice definitely DOES
matter.
2. Jim, if this
is your first time on a road course, don't worry about
"saving the
brakes". Worry about driving slow enough to learn the course
and learn
how to execute turns properly. Learn to drive the "line" first.
You
don't have to use all the horsepower the car has. Learn to drive
smoothly,
speed will come naturally afterwards.
3. If you learn that you like
this, the next thing to think of is track
tires - they make the next biggest
difference on the track.
4. The next thing after track tires is
suspension. Stiffen the suspension
and the car will work much better,
at least when the track's dry.
5. Brake upgrades are wonderful.
That's the third thing worth doing, in
that order.
6. Notice I
didn't mention anything about horsepower upgrades - K&N is
cheap, and a
boost controller either manual or dual solenoid helps you enjoy
the car, but
these are less important that learning to drive the track and
modifying the
car so it will negotiate the track better.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001
11:01 AM
> To: Merritt
> Cc: Jim Elferdink;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Open track newbie
>
> > >My car is
basically stock: stock engine, stock ECS suspension. New
> >
>Porterfield cryoed front rotors and their R4S pads all the way
around.
> SS
> > >brake lines. Castrol SRF fluid. This is my
daily driver, so I'm on
> street
> > >tires (Kumho
712).
> ---
>
> If youre on stock brake calipers..the pad
choice wont matter. You'll
> easily pass 1200-1400d, cook the pads,
and boil the fluid unless you
> mentally force yourself to keep things
kinda sane.
>
> YMMV...etc.
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:58:54
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What about NA cars? WAS: Open track newbie
1.
Replace the brake fluid with some high temp stuff like Motul and bleed
the
lines good.
2. Get yourself some more aggressive pads than stock - it
won't cost that
much.
3. The street tire wear from one event is not
going ruin you, especially on
your debut. If you start doing this a
lot, you are going to want track
tires - how cheap is cheap? Do you
want to have fun or worry about losing a
tire in the middle of a track
weekend? Race tires tend to cost a little
less than street tires, and
the adhesion is a HELL of a lot better.
4. You may be surprised about
how you do in relation to high horsepower
cars, especially if you take the
time to learn how to drive the track.
Sure, you won't have as big a hammer
with the throttle, but if you execute
the turns properly, your exit speeds
can easily give you a 10 mph advantage
over a poorly driven high horsepower
car. The more turns on the track, the
less advantage to the
TT.
5. You'll be driving the car. Nobody, including your
instructor can make
you go any faster than you want to, and you shouldn't try
to go faster than
your comfort level. Remember, slow in, fast
out.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross,
Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 12:08
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: What about NA cars? WAS: Open track newbie
>
> Regarding stock brakes (or lack thereof):
>
> While the NA
cars are lighter than the TTs, they're still pushing
> 3700-3800lbs with
gas and a driver. About 3400lbs curb weight - gonna
> weigh
> mine
soon. And we don't have the larger stock calipers up front
(let
> alone
> big reds).
>
>
Soooo... is it realistic for me to be able to go to a road course (SIR
or
> PIR) for the first time, learn a few things, have some fun, and still
be
> able to stop when the day is over on my STOCK brakes? I have an
extra set
> of stock pads/shims/etc. that I'll take with me since my
current ones are
> about 30-40% worn. I've changed the pads on the
rears before, and it
> wasn't
> that hard, so I'm pretty sure I can
do the fronts, too. That is if the
> pads/calipers/rotors/fluid will
put up with the abuse. This will be my
> first time, so I
don't think I'll be going too crazy out there, and I
> won't
> be
going as fast as the TTs, either.
>
> Am I asking for trouble with
a NA car with stock brakes at the track? Or
> can I go stock this
time and then mess with the brakes as I get
> better/faster?
>
> Darren mentioned getting cheap tires to "play" and learn - I could
put
> some
> on my stock 16" wheels... good idea for the first
few times, or should I
> just go with my 17" wheels and nice
tires?
>
> Thanks!
> --Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT)
76,000 mi
> SOON: Firehawk SZ50EP 2[45]5/40/17 tires, 17x8.5" wheels
> SOON: Aftermarket Springs/Shocks/Struts
(GC/GAB?)
> Magnacor KV85, NGK plugs 0.040", K&N
FIPK, Skippy PCV CC,
> M1 10W30, OEM filter, SZ50
245/50/ZR16, 16x8" stock wheels
> '94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around
corners" Corolla 74,000mi
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:01:08
-0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Open track newbie
I've run at Thunderhill 3 times in the last
few years. First time I went
with stock brakes and they were literally
toast after 3 sessions. There
were three run groups and each group had
5 20 minute sessions in the day. I
even had to run off the track once
when the brakes faded prior to turn 8A
(last turn before home straight in the
short course). I did return to the
4th and 5th sessions but couldn't
run without being extremely conservative
since the brakes had
faded.
Upon returning home, I purchased Stillen's cross drilled rotors
and R4S pads
for all corners together with Motul 600 fluid. Upgraded
the system,
seasoned the rotors, bedded the pads. Next track time was
more than a year
later also at Thunderhill, this time for a two day
event. I brought along
new R4S pads, fluid, and all the stuff to work
on them, but I didn't have to
use it.
Thunderhill is a pretty tight
course even when the long course is in play.
With the car now modified to
produce 1 Bar of boost, top speed in the
straight before turn 1 was still
limited to 115 due to the chicane. On the
back side I reached 110
before turn 11 which was had some downhill
compression before turn in.
You really can't go much faster anywhere on the
course. The best
drivers get around quicker by skillfully working the
connected turns in
3-5 and 11-13.
Overall, the R4S pads held up with almost no fade in 20
minute sessions for
2 days. If the sessions were 30-40 minutes, I think
fade would have come
into play and I would have needed the R4
composition. With the added boost,
I had enough power to challenge even
the Vipers; however, my skill level in
corners consistently kept me off their
pace.
Upon returning home, I did a full tear down and replaced the pads
and fluid.
The pads had some small gouges and were white around the
edges. There was
lots of reddish material embedded in the cross drilled
holes but the rotors
were clean without any micro cracks observed around the
holes. A new set of
R4S pads and new fluid went in.
Thunderhill
is a great newbie course; you can't go too fast and there is
lots of runoff
if you make a mistake. Rich's advice to be prepared should
be taken
seriously however. Nothing worse than finishing your day early
because
your car can't perform.
Jim
91-VR4
95-VR4
Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:40:57
-0500
From: John Sterling <
jsterlin@lan.tjhsst.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: New member
I apologize if i'm breaking any of the netiquette
here, your signup site
seemed pretty emphatic about keeping to protocol, but
i'd just like to
introduce myself.
My name is John Sterling and i have
a 97 Supra TT, modded with almost
everything short of a new turbo (which
seems to come a lot later for
supras than it does for 3/s's i've
gathered).
My friend just got himself a vr-4 and i thought i'd take the
chance to
learn about them, especially because he'll probably be expecting me
to
help him with most of his installations. I'd also like to learn
about
some of the Supra's best competition.
What I was wondering was
if there is a site that details the
installation of modifications (much like
the tech articles on the
mkiv.com site). I found those very helpful and
always had a printout or
two with me while i was fiddling with wires or
hoses. I've seen
something that had the installation of a boost
controller, which i can
also use for his boost gauge and turbo timer most
likely, but i was
wanting for details of more advanced mods. If its
exists, great. If
not, maybe down the line, we'll put it up.
TIA
for all your help
- -john
97 supra tt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#442
*********************