team3s
Wednesday, March 21
2001 Volume 01
: Number
441
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 20 Mar 2001 13:59:53 EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
questions
Hello all.
I presently have my engine and drivetrain
sitting on a dolly in my garage. Since everything is far more accessible, I
thought I'd check out the condition of the timming belt. The car has 84,xxx
miles and I am pretty sure the 60k service has been performed by Mitsubishi.
What I found when I removed the upper timming belt covers was the
following:
- -The belt and what I can see of the water pump look to be
fairly new.
- -The cams and the inside of the timing belt cover were pretty
dusty. More specifically, they were covered with a fine black powder.
-
-There was some oil around the joint for the front valve cover to the head-
mostly around the front (heaviest directly below the oil fill cap) but also a
bit on the cam side.
- -The timming belt seems pretty loose! Not quite enough
to lift the belt up and move it a tooth over (although I am sure I could with a
medium amount of force and if I took out all the slack in one place). Also, it
has enough slack that I was able to reach down and spin the water pump pully
freely with little or no effort.
So my qestions are as follows:
-
-Does anyone know of a friendly Mits tech or service manager who could run my
VIN through Mits system and confirm or disprove that the 60k service had been
performed (at least by Mits)?
- -Does everyone who has taken off their
timming belt covers found their cams and covers to be pretty dusty? I can also
see the belt cord along the side in some parts of the visible timming belt-the
rear cover had been knocked up again the cam but for only a very short period of
time and the belt sits pretty centered on the cam.
- -As far as I can see,
the valve covers have never been off. Does the front valve cover seal typically
fail first (the rear is bone dry) or should I just attribute all the oil to a
leaking oil cap seal(which is definately leaking)?
- -So what about this
loose timming belt? The car runs OK (at least from the 1-2 miles its been driven
before the engine was dropped), but I'm concerned maybe the tensioner(piston?)
needs replacing or wasn't properly tightend.
I can't take this to any shop
as the engine is out of my car and in the garage. I am capable of changing the
timing belt, but am sqeamish about trying it and won't if I don't have to. Of
course if I was to do it, it definately looks to be easier now than when the
engine is back in the car. Is there a way to remove and replace the tensioner
without disturbing the belt too much (assumming that is the cause of the
problem)?
BTW, in case it makes a difference (which I don't think it
does), the car is a 94 SL, auto tranny, Cali emissions.
Thanks in advance
for your responses.
Ron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 20:57:48
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HID and MP3
Having finally diceded to install a Bellof HID system
I am wondering what
price these go for in the US as the UK has so far proven
more expensive for
any Mitsu parts or add-ons. If anyone can get me a quote
for a system for
9006 conversion please email me.
On another note
(sorry for the pun) I have just got hold of a MP3 system
that works with the
std. Head unit - 800hrs of music yet weighs less than
1lb and can be hidden
under the seat. If anyone is interested I can take
pics of the install and
post them on a site. By removing the CD changer and
stuff I hope to save some
weight and add to the enjoyment of having al my
music with me. Sorry if this
is a bit off topic but I though someone might
be interested. Again email if
you want further
info.
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 17:49:19
-0800
From: "rick pierce" <
rick.pierce@alphadog.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SF Bay Area Mechanic needed
Hi Everyone,
I just purchased
a 1992 3000 GT VR-4 and it has a few things that need
fixing (that I either
can't do or don't have the back/neck to do anymore).
The previous owner had
the engine rebuilt and they evacuated the A/C. Since
it was winter they
never charged the system, and I'm unsure if it was ever
converted to R-134
prior. I would like to get my A/C working but I want
someone who is
trustworthy and will not gouge me to do the work. Do you
know anyone in
the Bay area who I might try. I live in Richmond (El Cerrito
border)
and work in the SF financial district. I e-mailed Bob Forrest
(SF
Admin) directly and he mentioned Les Vogel Dodge in Burlingame and the
Mitsu
dealer in San Jose, but I was hoping for something closer.
Also
the Suspension light blinks Tour/Sport, so I also think one of the
struts may
be bad (thanks messageboard) - I still have to get under the dash
with a
voltmeter to read the error signal to determine exactly what is
wrong, so
this is probably on my list as well (if it is only one strut, I'll
keep the
active suspension in tact).
I did search the messages/FAQs but didn't see
any recommendations.
Thanks, feel free to e-mail me directly,
Rick
Pierce
Rick.Pierce@AlphaDog.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 21:02:08
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Getrag Drag
I have a question about my 6-speed getrag.
If I drive my car hard, or more then about 15 - 20 miles on the freeway, the
tranny makes noise. It can't be heard from inside the car, but if I
park it
and leave it in neutral, you can hear rattling comming from the
right
passenger side of the car. It kind of sounds like there is some
sort of
'end-play' in the gears, almost like the gear sets are rattling
around. I
don't have any other problems with the tranny, but it's
pushing 45K miles and
I'd like to get if fixed before my warranty runs
out.
Is there anyway to inspect the tranny for problems - other then
taking it
apart? The dealer claims that Mistu won't even let them open
up the tranny.
According to Mitsu, Getrag has a special method of
assembling the tranny (
heat certain parts, freeze other parts) that makes
the tranny much stronger
- - yeah, that's why they blow up at 50K
miles!! The dealer basically told me
that unless the tranny breaks
they won't touch it - I couldn't duplicate the
rattling noise for the dealer
so they said they won't do anything for me, and
to come back when it blows
up - they'll be glad to sell me a new tranny for
$5000 after my warranty
expires.
BTW - I have a '97 VR-4 (build date Sep '96), I few months ago I
got bad
lifter ticking. I took it in to have it fixed and Mistu
refused to cover it
under warranty because I didn't have receipts for oil
changes from a Mitsu
dealer - of course I change my own oil and keep a log
that shows the oil
changes but that wasn't enough for them. Initially
they refused to honor the
warranty because I use Mobil 1. Any advice
on how to handle this? Does
anyone know if there are laws about
this? I honestly feel that Mitsu should
pay for the repair since they
produced a defective product, and, well, it IS
under warranty. Can
Mitsu really put specific restrictions in the warranty?
This doesn't
seem right to me: What's next? My tranny breaks but it's not
covered because I drove the car on the 3rd Sunday of the 4th lunar cycle
without first making a sacrafice to the Sun god?
I tried going
to another dealer but it turns out it is the regional Mitsu rep
that makes
these decisions. The dealer has no control over warranty
coverage.
Thanks in advance for the help
Cyrus
Glacier White '97
VR-$
San Francisco
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 20:15:33
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SF Bay Area Mechanic needed
>I just purchased a 1992 3000
GT VR-4 and it has a few things that need
>fixing (that I either can't do
or don't have the back/neck to do anymore).
>The previous owner had the
engine rebuilt and they evacuated the A/C. Since
>it was winter they
never charged the system, and I'm unsure if it was ever
>converted to
R-134 prior. I would like to get my A/C working but I want
>someone
who is trustworthy and will not gouge me to do the work.
A word of
warning here: If the system was never charged after evacuation,
it is
probably completely trashed (corroded, rusted, etc). It may never
work again
without replacing everything. I hope they left enough coolant in
there to
protect the system but if they didn't, fixing it might cost you a
small
fortune. If that's the case, rip it all out and lighten the car.
If it is
fixable, don't bother converting to R134. Keep using freon until
it's no
longer available.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:22:37
EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag Drag
- --part1_e4.12a11418.27e9787d_boundary
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
Cyrus,
The rattling noise you're hearing might be your throw
out bearing. Engage
your clutch pedal and see if the noise
disappears.....if it does, then don't
worry about it. That's a pretty
normal symptom with our cars..........just
my .02cents.....I've had that
noise (when in idle and in neutral) for 76,000
miles! Noise is gone
when you press down the clutch pedal.
Same with the lifter tick
noise....normal symptom for our cars.......check
the archives for some
remedies using various additives.
Good luck!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" -
'92 VR4 - too many mods to list.....Feeling the NEED for
SSSSSSSSSS(the
sound of my turbos)SSSSSPEED this upcoming Race season!!!!!!!
In a
message dated 3/20/01 8:04:36 PM Central Standard Time,
NassiriC@aol.com writes:
>
I have a question about my 6-speed getrag.
> If I drive my car
hard, or more then about 15 - 20 miles on the freeway,
> the
>
tranny makes noise. It can't be heard from inside the car, but if I park
> it
> and leave it in neutral, you can hear rattling comming from
the right
> passenger side of the car. It kind of sounds like there
is some sort of
> 'end-play' in the gears, almost like the gear sets are
rattling around. I
> don't have any other problems with the tranny,
but it's pushing 45K miles
> and
> I'd like to get if fixed before
my warranty runs out.
>
> Is there anyway to inspect the tranny for
problems - other then taking it
> apart? The dealer claims that
Mistu won't even let them open up the
> tranny.
> According
to Mitsu, Getrag has a special method of assembling the tranny (
> heat
certain parts, freeze other parts) that makes the tranny much stronger
>
> - yeah, that's why they blow up at 50K miles!! The
dealer basically told
> me
> that unless the tranny breaks they
won't touch it - I couldn't duplicate
> the
> rattling noise for
the dealer so they said they won't do anything for me,
> and
> to
come back when it blows up - they'll be glad to sell me a new tranny for
> $5000 after my warranty expires.
>
> BTW - I have a '97
VR-4 (build date Sep '96), I few months ago I got bad
> lifter
ticking. I took it in to have it fixed and Mistu refused to cover
>
it
> under warranty because I didn't have receipts for oil changes from a
Mitsu
> dealer - of course I change my own oil and keep a log that shows
the oil
> changes but that wasn't enough for them. Initially they
refused to honor
> the
> warranty because I use Mobil 1. Any
advice on how to handle this? Does
> anyone know if there are laws
about this? I honestly feel that Mitsu
> should
> pay for
the repair since they produced a defective product, and, well, it
> IS
> under warranty. Can Mitsu really put specific restrictions in the
> warranty?
> This doesn't seem right to me: What's
next? My tranny breaks but it's not
> covered because I drove the
car on the 3rd Sunday of the 4th lunar cycle
> without first making a
sacrafice to the Sun god?
>
> I tried going to another
dealer but it turns out it is the regional Mitsu
> rep
> that
makes these decisions. The dealer has no control over warranty
>
coverage.
>
> Thanks in advance for the help
> Cyrus
>
Glacier White '97 VR-$
> San Francisco
>
>
-
--part1_e4.12a11418.27e9787d_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Cyrus,
<BR>
<BR>The rattling noise you're hearing
might be your throw out bearing. Engage
<BR>your clutch
pedal and see if the noise disappears.....if it does, then don't
<BR>worry about it. That's a pretty normal symptom with our
cars..........just
<BR>my .02cents.....I've had that noise (when in
idle and in neutral) for 76,000
<BR>miles! Noise is gone
when you press down the clutch pedal.
<BR>
<BR>Same with the
lifter tick noise....normal symptom for our cars.......check
<BR>the
archives for some remedies using various
additives.
<BR>
<BR>Good
luck!
<BR>
<BR>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - too many mods to
list.....Feeling the NEED for
<BR>SSSSSSSSSS(the sound of my
turbos)SSSSSPEED this upcoming Race season!!!!!!!
<BR>
<BR>In
a message dated 3/20/01 8:04:36 PM Central Standard Time,
NassiriC@aol.com
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE
TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT:
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have a question about my 6-speed getrag.
<BR>If I drive my car hard, or more then about 15 - 20 miles
on the freeway,
<BR>the
<BR>tranny makes noise. It
can't be heard from inside the car, but if I park
<BR>it
<BR>and leave it in neutral, you can hear rattling comming from the
right
<BR>passenger side of the car. It kind of sounds like
there is some sort of
<BR>'end-play' in the gears, almost like the
gear sets are rattling around. I
<BR>don't have any other
problems with the tranny, but it's pushing 45K miles
<BR>and
<BR>I'd like to get if fixed before my warranty runs
out.
<BR>
<BR>Is there anyway to inspect the tranny for
problems - other then taking it
<BR>apart? The dealer claims
that Mistu won't even let them open up the
<BR>tranny.
<BR>According to Mitsu, Getrag has a special method of
assembling the tranny (
<BR>heat certain parts, freeze other parts)
that makes the tranny much stronger
<BR>
<BR>-
yeah, that's why they blow up at 50K miles!! The dealer basically told
<BR>me
<BR>that unless the tranny breaks they won't touch it
- I couldn't duplicate
<BR>the
<BR>rattling noise for the
dealer so they said they won't do anything for me,
<BR>and
<BR>to come back when it blows up - they'll be glad to sell me a new
tranny for
<BR>$5000 after my warranty
expires.
<BR>
<BR>BTW - I have a '97 VR-4 (build date Sep
'96), I few months ago I got bad
<BR>lifter ticking. I took
it in to have it fixed and Mistu refused to cover
<BR>it
<BR>under warranty because I didn't have receipts for oil changes from
a Mitsu
<BR>dealer - of course I change my own oil and keep a log that
shows the oil
<BR>changes but that wasn't enough for them.
Initially they refused to honor
<BR>the
<BR>warranty because I use Mobil 1. Any advice on how to
handle this? Does
<BR>anyone know if there are laws about
this? I honestly feel that Mitsu
<BR>should
<BR>pay for the repair since they produced a defective product, and,
well, it
<BR>IS
<BR>under warranty. Can Mitsu
really put specific restrictions in the
<BR>warranty?
<BR>This doesn't seem right to me: What's next?
My tranny breaks but it's not
<BR>covered because I drove
the car on the 3rd Sunday of the 4th lunar cycle
<BR>without first
making a sacrafice to the Sun god?
<BR>
<BR>I tried
going to another dealer but it turns out it is the regional Mitsu
<BR>rep
<BR>that makes these decisions. The dealer
has no control over warranty
<BR>coverage.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks in advance for the
help
<BR>Cyrus
<BR>Glacier White '97 VR-$
<BR>San
Francisco
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000"
SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT
COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_e4.12a11418.27e9787d_boundary--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:47:22
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SF Bay Area Mechanic needed
I would first check to make sure
that all connectors were clean, in tact,
and are not frayed, etc.
Most
of the time it seems that when someone has the blinking light symptom,
it is
generally just a bad/loose connection instead of a bad strut. I'm
not
saying its not a bad strut - but I would check the wiring first, as i
know I
would be a little mad had I replaced a working strut, and all it ended
up
being was a loose connection.
- -Cody
#Also the Suspension
light blinks Tour/Sport, so I also think one of the
#struts may be bad
(thanks messageboard) - I still have to get
#under the dash
#with a
voltmeter to read the error signal to determine exactly what is
#wrong, so
this is probably on my list as well (if it is only one
#strut, I'll
#keep
the active suspension in tact).
#
#I did search the messages/FAQs but
didn't see any recommendations.
#
#Thanks, feel free to e-mail me
directly,
#Rick Pierce
#Rick.Pierce@AlphaDog.com#
#
#***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 00:35:17
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Greedy EGT!- Results, Thanks, a bit more help with the Ground
Jeff
Lucius,
I wanted to tell you THANKS for helping me out with the wiring
for the EGT.
It was a bit challenging identifying the Ignition Switch, but I
managed.
Now all I have to do is my brother's TT. It should be a piece
of cake the
2nt time around, thanks to you.
I did a run with the car
to see the EGT rersults:
430 deg C - Idle after engine is warm (after
driving, let it sit 1 min)
620 - 40 mph cruise control, 4th gear
750 -
70 mph cruise control, 5th gear
720 - 70 mph cruise control, 6th
gear
950 - higest value obtained in 4th gear @ 6000RPM (WOT) - high speed
run
900 - WOT, high speed run @ 145 mph (was a little uphill)
These
numbers look verry high, only to find out when I got home that my
ground is
tied in to the rheostat (dimmer) switch.
So, I only did this @
idle:
430 - Rheostat, maximal dashboard intensity
360 - Rheostat,
minimal dashboard intensity
I know I have to reroute the ground. I
should just reroute it to the chasis
somewhere under the dashboard,
right? Where did you say that you connected
your GROUND?
I
wonder if all the above numbers are off by 70 deg C, or increased
by
16.28%. In the first scenario, my reading of 950 would be 880, or in
the
2nd scenario it would be 795 deg C. Of course I like the %
difference
better, since the readings would be lower. I shifted early
out of 4th gear
because I was scared of such a high EGT temp (the
950).
Thanks Jeff,
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 06:46:52
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Getrag Drag
Ahmed's right, check to see if the noise goes away
when you push in the
clutch pedal. If it does, no prob. If it
doesn't you're probably low on
tranny fluid. Check the level, and top
it off, then wipe the case of the
trans clean, and check it every day for
signs of leakage. I had a very
similar noise and simply chucked it up
to the throw out bearing (never
actually checked). Turned out my case
had a crack, the fluid had leaked
out, and I locked up the tranny about 2
months later.
I'm pretty certain you have some legal options to pursue
with Mits on you
warranty claim. As long as the oil you use is of
sufficient rating for the
car (SF/SG, etc...) and proper weight, they can't
decline your claim. The
law states, that unless they give you a certain
maintenance part for free
(oil, air filter, etc...) you are free to use
whichever brand you wish. Do
check the archives first about the ticking
though. Many have fixed it
without need to replace the lifters. I
am not one of those lucky folks
though. Hope this helps.
John
Basol
'95 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 06:09:44
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Getrag Drag
There are some tests you can do to determine if
the noise is really
from the trany or not. Maybe the following can
help.
With the car parked (driveshafts not turning), engine
running
(flywheel turning), and Getrag trany in neutral (all synchros
are
disengaged from the gears), here's what turning in the trany in
the
following two situations.
1) The clutch pedal is out or up
(meaning the clutch is engaged). The
clutch and pressure plate are spinning
and so is the input shaft, its
synchros, and some drive gears (and their
bearings) are turning.
However, because no synchro is engaged, the
intermediate shaft,
center differential and viscous coupler, front
differential, and the
output shaft to the transfer case are NOT
turning.
2) The clutch pedal is in or down (meaning clutch is
*disengaged*).
After the clutch and pressure plate have finished spinning
down,
NOTHING is turning in the transaxle. The input shaft can only
turn
when the clutch is engaged (when the car is not moving). Our
input
shaft does not touch the flywheel, and so there is no pilot
bearing.
With wheels not turning also, no trany shafts or gears are
turning
either. If there is still a "rotating" or "tumbling" noise it is
not
from the trany internals.
Pics and other info regarding our AWD
system can be found at my web
page below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-AWD.htmNow
as for your dealer problems, I recommend avoiding dealers like
the plague
(except for discount OEM parts). Fortunately for the
majority of 3S turbo
owners, our cars are old enough to not have to
worry about
warranties.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com - ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 20, 2001 7:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: Getrag Drag
I
have a question about my 6-speed getrag.
If I drive my car hard, or
more then about 15 - 20 miles on the
freeway, the tranny makes noise.
It can't be heard from inside the
car, but if I park it and leave it in
neutral, you can hear rattling
comming from the right passenger side of the
car. It kind of sounds
like there is some sort of 'end-play' in the
gears, almost like the
gear sets are rattling around. I don't have any
other problems with
the tranny, but it's pushing 45K miles and I'd like to
get if fixed
before my warranty runs out.
Is there anyway to inspect
the tranny for problems - other then
taking it apart? The dealer claims
that Mistu won't even let them
open up the tranny. According to Mitsu,
Getrag has a special method
of assembling the tranny ( heat certain parts,
freeze other parts)
that makes the tranny much stronger - yeah, that's why
they blow up
at 50K miles!! The dealer basically told me that unless
the tranny
breaks they won't touch it - I couldn't duplicate the rattling
noise
for the dealer so they said they won't do anything for me, and
to
come back when it blows up - they'll be glad to sell me a new
tranny
for $5000 after my warranty expires.
BTW - I have a '97 VR-4
(build date Sep '96), I few months ago I got
bad lifter ticking. I took
it in to have it fixed and Mistu refused
to cover it under warranty because I
didn't have receipts for oil
changes from a Mitsu dealer - of course I change
my own oil and keep
a log that shows the oil changes but that wasn't enough
for them.
Initially they refused to honor the warranty because I use Mobil
1.
Any advice on how to handle this? Does anyone know if there are
laws
about this? I honestly feel that Mitsu should pay for the
repair
since they produced a defective product, and, well, it IS
under
warranty. Can Mitsu really put specific restrictions in
the
warranty? This doesn't seem right to me: What's next?
My tranny
breaks but it's not covered because I drove the car on the 3rd
Sunday
of the 4th lunar cycle without first making a sacrafice to the
Sun
god?
I tried going to another dealer but it turns out it is
the regional
Mitsu rep that makes these decisions. The dealer has no
control over
warranty coverage.
Thanks in advance for the
help
Cyrus
Glacier White '97 VR-$
San Francisco
***
Info:
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***
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Yahoo!?
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:27:15
EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag Drag
- --part1_c0.1178aa14.27ea1443_boundary
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I think
Darc meant to send this to our mailing list and Cyrus; rather than
just to
me individually.
Cyrus, I highly recommend you visit Jeff Lucious'
website at:
www.stealth316.comValuable site for
all of us........thanks again, Jeff !!
Happy racing everyone!
Looking forward to re-connecting with all my fellow
3S owners/friends this
upcoming race season!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - too many mods to
list.....Feeling the NEED for
SSSSSSSSSS(the sound of my turbos)SSSSSPEED
this upcoming Race season!!!!!!!
In a message dated 3/20/01 10:42:18 PM
Central Standard Time,
wce@telus.net
writes:
> Cyrus;
>
> Ahmed has likely solved my
passenger side engine compartment noise as
> well, with
his advice to you on it being the "throw out bearing rattle" of
>
notoriety ;-) It has been perplexing me for a bit, and like you, I
could
> not pin it down. It ~is not the tranny~ so cool your worries on
that. The
> lifter noise will go away with an oil flush product.
Also insure you idle
> down for a few minutes before every shutdown
so you do not bake the oil in
> the turbos. This well help forestall
having to use a flush regularly. Erik
> Gross recently posted on
noisy lifters, and his Mopar product solution is
> worth exploring as
well. Change your oil, (Mobil 1 or otherwise) with
> regularity as the
turbos do a job on it. You have a great and legendary car,
> (but with
notoriously poor Company support BTW) and like everyone who owns
> one,
you are likely a bit paranoid of the tranny stories, lifter stories, on
>
infinitum. If you treat it right, it should treat you right. You are in
the
> right forum for advice and in no time will be advising those
like yourself
> who arrive here ;-)
>
> Darc
>
>
>
>
-
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>I think Darc meant to send this to our mailing list and Cyrus; rather
than
<BR>just to me individually.
<BR>
<BR>Cyrus, I
highly recommend you visit Jeff Lucious' website
at:
<BR>
<BR>www.stealth316.com
<BR>
<BR>Valuable
site for all of us........thanks again, Jeff !!
<BR>
<BR>Happy
racing everyone! Looking forward to re-connecting with all my fellow
<BR>3S owners/friends this upcoming race
season!
<BR>
<BR>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - too many mods to
list.....Feeling the NEED for
<BR>SSSSSSSSSS(the sound of my
turbos)SSSSSPEED this upcoming Race season!!!!!!!
<BR>
<BR>In
a message dated 3/20/01 10:42:18 PM Central Standard Time,
wce@telus.net
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE
TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT:
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Cyrus;
<BR>
<BR>Ahmed has likely
solved my passenger side engine compartment noise
as
<BR>well, with his advice to you on it being the
"throw out bearing rattle" of
<BR>notoriety ;-) It has been
perplexing me for a bit, and like you, I could
<BR>not pin it down. It
~is not the tranny~ so cool your worries on that. The
<BR>lifter noise
will go away with an oil flush product. Also insure you
idle
<BR>down for a few minutes before every shutdown so you
do not bake the oil in
<BR>the turbos. This well help forestall having
to use a flush regularly. Erik
<BR>Gross recently posted on
noisy lifters, and his Mopar product solution is
<BR>worth exploring as
well. Change your oil, (Mobil 1 or otherwise) with
<BR>regularity as
the turbos do a job on it. You have a great and legendary car,
<BR>(but
with notoriously poor Company support BTW) and like everyone who
owns
<BR>one, you are likely a bit paranoid of the tranny stories,
lifter stories, on
<BR>infinitum. If you treat it right, it should
treat you right. You are in the
<BR>right forum for advice and in no
time will be advising those like yourself
<BR>who arrive here
;-)
<BR>
<BR>Darc
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT
COLOR="#0f0f0f" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT></FONT><FONT
COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>
-
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*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 06:33:11
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Greedy EGT!- Results, Thanks, a bit more help with the
Ground
Hi Mike,
Thanks for verifying the effects of attaching both
pos and neg wires
from a meter to the rheostat.
All of my internal
gauges and control units that do not attach to the
ECU use a bolt that is on
the dash panel (aka firewall) near the
brake pedal (or thereabouts, if I
remember correctly). One wire
attaches to the bolt and then there are
sequences of pigtails off of
that. Every connection can be unplugged if
neccessary. Devices that
attach directly to the ECU connector also use the
ECU for +12V and
ground.
EGT values depend as much (if not more) on
timing advance as on A/F.
Also the location of the pyrometer will affect the
temp. It would be
best to have access to a wideband O2 sensor and meter to
know exactly
what A/F the EGTs correspond to when the engine is under
various
loads. AAM uses one of these when it uses its AWD dyno for
tuning.
Otherwise, the stock O2 voltage offers some clue as to the real
A/F,
as well as spark plug appearance, carbon deposits on pistons
and
exhaust pipes, etc.
I have seen my EGTs go as high as 1000ºC
under heavy load (but only
about 900ºC or so in 1/4 mile drags). You know of
course that only
the gas is that hot. Piston crowns (especially forged
pistons)
usually run much cooler than that (by several 100s of ºC).
Probably
the most danger is to the turbo exhaust housing and components.
Most
turbos are designed to handle only 900-950ºC exhaust temps.
An
additional danger would be if 900+ºC temps really indicate a
lean
mixture and the related detonation that often occurs.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 20, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: RE: Greedy EGT!- Results, Thanks, a
bit more help with the
Ground
Jeff Lucius,
I wanted to tell
you THANKS for helping me out with the wiring for
the EGT. It was a bit
challenging identifying the Ignition Switch,
but I managed. Now all I have to
do is my brother's TT. It should be
a piece of cake the 2nt time
around, thanks to you.
I did a run with the car to see the EGT
rersults:
430 deg C - Idle after engine is warm (after driving, let it
sit 1
min)
620 - 40 mph cruise control, 4th gear
750 - 70 mph
cruise control, 5th gear
720 - 70 mph cruise control, 6th gear
950 -
higest value obtained in 4th gear @ 6000RPM (WOT) - high speed
run 900 - WOT,
high speed run @ 145 mph (was a little uphill)
These numbers look verry
high, only to find out when I got home that
my ground is tied in to the
rheostat (dimmer) switch.
So, I only did this @ idle:
430 -
Rheostat, maximal dashboard intensity
360 - Rheostat, minimal dashboard
intensity
I know I have to reroute the ground. I should just
reroute it to the
chasis somewhere under the dashboard, right? Where
did you say that
you connected your GROUND?
I wonder if all the above
numbers are off by 70 deg C, or increased
by
16.28%. In the first
scenario, my reading of 950 would be 880, or in
the 2nd scenario it would be
795 deg C. Of course I like the %
difference better, since the readings
would be lower. I shifted
early out of 4th gear because I was scared of
such a high EGT temp
(the 950).
Thanks Jeff,
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area,
Michigan
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:53:25
EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag Drag
- --part1_63.136ec61d.27ea1a65_boundary
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Thanks
for the clarification, Jeff.
I should have said, "press the clutch
pedal in" instead of "engage the clutch
pedal".
;-)
Ahmed.
In a message dated 3/21/01 8:10:42 AM Central
Standard Time,
stealthman92@yahoo.com
writes:
> 2) The clutch pedal is in or down (meaning clutch is
*disengaged*).
In a message dated 3/20/01 9:24:01 PM Central Standard
Time,
TurboDrvn@aol.com
writes:
> The rattling noise you're hearing might be your throw out
bearing. Engage
> your clutch pedal and see if the noise
disappears.....if it does, then
> don't
> worry about it.
That's a pretty normal symptom with our cars..........just
> my
.02cents.....I've had that noise (when in idle and in neutral) for
>
76,000
> miles! Noise is gone when you press down the clutch pedal.
>
>
-
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Thanks for the clarification, Jeff.
<BR>
<BR>I should have said, "press the clutch
pedal in" instead of "engage the clutch
<BR>pedal".
<BR>
<BR>;-)
<BR>
<BR>Ahmed.
<BR>
<BR>In
a message dated 3/21/01 8:10:42 AM Central Standard Time,
<BR>stealthman92@yahoo.com
writes:
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT:
#0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">2)
The clutch pedal is in or down (meaning clutch is
*disengaged*).</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT
COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message
dated 3/20/01 9:24:01 PM Central Standard Time,
<BR>TurboDrvn@aol.com
writes:
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT:
#0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT:
5px">The rattling noise you're hearing might be your throw out bearing.
Engage
<BR>your clutch pedal and see if the noise
disappears.....if it does, then
<BR>don't
<BR>worry about
it. That's a pretty normal symptom with our cars..........just
<BR>my .02cents.....I've had that noise (when in idle and in neutral)
for
<BR>76,000
<BR>miles! Noise is gone when you
press down the clutch pedal.
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT
COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_63.136ec61d.27ea1a65_boundary--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:18:02
-0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: head gasket
Alright,
how impossible would it be for someone
without much car experience to
replace their head gaskets? I know that it
takes a while (mechanic said that
it would take them approx. 9 hours), but is
it that complicated? I don't
have a service manual, but I wouldn't begin any
work without one? Would it
help, or am I doomed to spend 900+ bucks to have
these replaced?
Thank you,
Dusan
92 Stealth
(SOHC)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:27:15
EST
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag Drag
I think Darc meant to send this to our mailing list and
Cyrus; rather than
just to me individually.
Cyrus, I highly recommend
you visit Jeff Lucious' website at:
www.stealth316.comValuable site for
all of us........thanks again, Jeff !!
Happy racing everyone!
Looking forward to re-connecting with all my fellow
3S owners/friends this
upcoming race season!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - too many mods to
list.....Feeling the NEED for
SSSSSSSSSS(the sound of my turbos)SSSSSPEED
this upcoming Race season!!!!!!!
In a message dated 3/20/01 10:42:18 PM
Central Standard Time,
wce@telus.net
writes:
> Cyrus;
>
> Ahmed has likely solved my
passenger side engine compartment noise as
> well, with
his advice to you on it being the "throw out bearing rattle" of
>
notoriety ;-) It has been perplexing me for a bit, and like you, I
could
> not pin it down. It ~is not the tranny~ so cool your worries on
that. The
> lifter noise will go away with an oil flush product.
Also insure you idle
> down for a few minutes before every shutdown
so you do not bake the oil in
> the turbos. This well help forestall
having to use a flush regularly. Erik
> Gross recently posted on
noisy lifters, and his Mopar product solution is
> worth exploring as
well. Change your oil, (Mobil 1 or otherwise) with
> regularity as the
turbos do a job on it. You have a great and legendary car,
> (but with
notoriously poor Company support BTW) and like everyone who owns
> one,
you are likely a bit paranoid of the tranny stories, lifter stories, on
>
infinitum. If you treat it right, it should treat you right. You are in
the
> right forum for advice and in no time will be advising those
like yourself
> who arrive here ;-)
>
> Darc
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:23:43
+0400
From: Andrew Spargo <
spargo@emirates.net.ae>
Subject:
Team3S: Stillen downpipe+Borla cat-back
After reading as much as I can
from the list reference exhausts for our
cars, I would like to fit the
Stillen downpipe with the Borla cat-back
system, so I would have no
cats/pre-cats etc. only the small resonated tips
at the tailpipe. Remember
guys I'm in the Middle East so we have no emission
controls at present and we
don't switch to unleaded for another 6 years. The
only thing they might be
able to catch me on is noise (i.e. Decibels), so my
question is, just how
much noise does this set-up give? Basically,
forgetting emissions, could you
guys in the States drive down the road with
this set-up without getting
pulled over?
Andy Spargo
Abu Dhabi
United Arab
Emirates
e-mail
spargo@emirates.net.ae***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:31:56
-0600
From: Danny Melton <
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: head gasket
The head gasket isn't really TO difficult to
replace. In my opinion, the
most difficult part of the job would be putting
the timing belt back on. If
you mess this up, you can almost rest assured
that you will have much more
to worry about than a blown head gasket. If you
are dead set on saving some
money and doing this yourself (much like I am
about things :) I would
recommend getting a service manual and changing the
head gasket yourself,
BUT, when it comes time to re-assemble everything, I
would tow it to a
dealer (or trained mechanic) and have them put your timing
belt back on,
and then tow the car back to wherever you are going to work on
it and
re-assemble the rest by yourself.
I am still an aspiring import
mechanic myself, and have screwed up my fair
share of stuff, but I've
learned that it's the only way to learn.
Good Luck!
Danny
Melton
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:34:13
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Windshield wipers not on automatically
As a follow-up to the
list ... I crawled into the driver's footwell to
investigate the windshield
wiper problem.
Problem: The wipers had no variable speed control in
Intermittent mode. The
wipers would not wipe when the wiper arm was
pulled to squirt washer fluid
onto the front windshield.
Solution:
Check the fuses.
Summary: The paper manual shows the driver's footwell
fuse box as having a
fuse for the "Doom light" which I assume it supposed to
be "Dome light." I
like having a fuse labeled "Doom light" though -
good conversation piece.
Also, the fuse in the paper manual
labeled "Headlight relay" is wrong as
these relays should be under the hood
in the engine bay in the other fuse
box. This mis-labeled "Headlight
relay" fuse was blown and replacing it
gave me my variable speed and washer
fluid then wipers go control back
again.
The fuse in the
paper manual marked as "Windshield wiper" was not blown
but does control the
movement of the wipers in general.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, rollbar, harnesses, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm
<
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:29 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
Schilberg, Darren
Subject: RE: Team3S: Windshield wipers not on
automatically
My 92-96 service manual shows the cig lighter is Junction
Block
multi-purpose fuse #5 (not #1 which is for the seat belt,
active
aero, and MFI relay - hmmm, a good one to take out to deter
theft
along with #19 for the ECU) for all years. It also mentions a
thermal
fuse associated with the lighter. Maybe this has broken? The
manual
also shows the accessory socket and wipers are related through
J/B
fuse #10 (not #8 which is empty, except in my car when I have the
TMO
plugged in). Pages 22 and 54-119 to 54-123 in the 92-96 manual. Are
we
talking about the same fuses and car parts?
J/B fuse #1 is upper left and
fuse #19 is lower
right.
1-2-3-4-5
6-7-8-9-10-11-12
13-14-15-16-17-18-19
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:41:41
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Temperature Sensor Specs
I just recently moved and have misplaced
my 3/S Manual CD, but I need to
know what the resistance measurement for the
intake air temp sensor is
supposed to be. Is there anything in the
service manuals that gives a
specification for testing that? It should
be something listed like "5000
ohms at 78 degrees F", or somesuch. If
someone can find it, I'd be grateful
if you could send it to me
off-list. I doubt many folks on the list are
looking for that
info. :-)
Thanks!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:48:17
-0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: head gasket
hmmm... thank you for your reassuring words :)
The bad part is that I didn't
even know I would have to remove the timing
belt... maybe I should leave
this one to the pros, or, since I have another
vehicle that I currently use,
I could give it a try just for the hell of it.
There is no better way of
learning something new... rite?
Thank
you,
Dusan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Melton"
<
dmelton@hypertech-inc.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 21, 2001 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: head
gasket
> The head gasket isn't really TO difficult to replace. In
my opinion, the
> most difficult part of the job would be putting the
timing belt back on.
If
> you mess this up, you can almost rest assured
that you will have much more
> to worry about than a blown head gasket. If
you are dead set on saving
some
> money and doing this yourself (much
like I am about things :) I would
> recommend getting a service manual and
changing the head gasket yourself,
> BUT, when it comes time to
re-assemble everything, I would tow it to a
> dealer (or trained mechanic)
and have them put your timing belt back on,
> and then tow the car back to
wherever you are going to work on it and
> re-assemble the rest by
yourself.
> I am still an aspiring import mechanic myself, and have
screwed up my fair
> share of stuff, but I've learned that it's the only
way to learn.
> Good Luck!
> Danny Melton
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:58:05
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: head gasket
At 11:48 AM 3/21/01 -0500, Dusan Simovic
wrote:
>hmmm... thank you for your reassuring words :) The bad part is
that I didn't
>even know I would have to remove the timing belt... maybe I
should leave
>this one to the pros, or, since I have another vehicle that
I currently use,
>I could give it a try just for the hell of it. There is
no better way of
>learning something new... rite?
>
I am a strong
believer in "let the painters do the painting."
I will crawl under my car and
piddle with things I understand, such as
brakes, cooling ducts, water
injection and suspension. In fact, I love it.
But I leave the tough,
detailed, technical jobs to pros. Besides, if you
screw it up, you have no
recourse. If they screw it up, they gotta do it
over.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:13:44
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
head gasket
- ----- Original Message -----
Dusan Simovic
wrote:
> >hmmm... thank you for your reassuring words :) The bad
part is that I didn't
> >even know I would have to remove the timing
belt... maybe I should leave
> >this one to the pros,
Merritt
responded:
> I am a strong believer in "let the painters do the
painting."
> I will crawl under my car and piddle with things I
understand, such as
> brakes, cooling ducts, water injection and
suspension. In fact, I love it.
There is some merit [ sorry about
that ] in what you say, but, if everyone
followed that path there would only
be one generation of painters.
While head gaskets, without a mentor,
might be a little ambitious I think
too much of the car culture is being
left to the pros --- if I page through
turbo magazine, it seems that the
owner of the hot new car provides only
a checkbook, while the pros do all the
work.
I do almost all of my own work and get satisfaction not only from
saving
money, but, from accomplishing a task that some would leave to
others.
EOS [end of
sermon]
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:18:06
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: head gasket
I'll add my 2 hp worth here (not done making puns
are we?) and say that I
just did a Big Red install. I did it with a
friend who knows his stuff (not
about our cars but in general). I was
fine that everything was fitting
together but will take it to my Meineke shop
or Performance shop for their
approval that I didn't cap one brake line
shut.
Same thing with head gaskets, downpipes, exhaust headers,
etc. Feel free to
do them yourself but get it checked to be doubly sure
about it.
The K&N FIPK was one thing but trusting my life to four
very small brake
lines and two very large calipers while doing 145 mph
approaching a
90-degree turn ??? this is where I prefer to have it
double-checked by a
professional.
The rollbar was the same way.
It is installed perfectly but a Safety
Technician approved by the Porsche
Club of America must certify its
installation before I am allowed on the
track with them. There are
differences between the Shadetree Mechanic
(brake bleeding, air filters) and
the DIY (valve timing, brakes, suspension,
etc.).
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, rollbar, harnesses, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm
<
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
[mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 12:14 PM
To:
Dusan Simovic;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st; Danny
Melton; Merritt
Subject: Re: Team3S: head gasket
There is some merit [
sorry about that ] in what you say, but, if everyone
followed that path there
would only be one generation of painters.
While head gaskets, without a
mentor, might be a little ambitious I think
too much of the car culture is
being left to the pros --- if I page through
turbo magazine, it seems that
the owner of the hot new car provides only
a checkbook, while the pros do all
the work.
I do almost all of my own work and get satisfaction not only
from saving
money, but, from accomplishing a task that some would leave to
others.
EOS [end of
sermon]
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:13:31
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Greedy EGT!- Results, Thanks, a bit more help with the Ground
Jeff
Lucius,
Thanks for the reply. I just finished rewiring the Ground
to the Ground
location by the under the dash fuses. Now, at idle the
gauge seems to work
(350 deg C) and is not affected by the dimmer function of
the rheostat
switch. However, the illumination of gauge only has a
bright setting. I
cannot dim it down like before. It should be
fine this way, however, if
your EGT gauge maintains the dimmer function, it
would be nice to know where
the last wire (white - parking light source) is
plugged in.
Right now, the white wire is plugged in to the Green with
Yellow Stripe wire
of the Rheostat.
I'll let you know of the new
temps.
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Subject: Re: Greedy EGT!- Results, Thanks, a
bit more help with the
Ground
Hi Mike,
Thanks for verifying
the effects of attaching both pos and neg wires
from a meter to the
rheostat.
All of my internal gauges and control units that do not attach
to the
ECU use a bolt that is on the dash panel (aka firewall) near
the
brake pedal (or thereabouts, if I remember correctly). One
wire
attaches to the bolt and then there are sequences of pigtails off
of
that. Every connection can be unplugged if neccessary. Devices
that
attach directly to the ECU connector also use the ECU for +12V
and
ground.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#441
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