team3s
Tuesday, March 20
2001
Volume 01 : Number
440
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Mar 2001 12:22:36 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WI Life expectancy
> From what I've read about Spitfires
and Aero engines in general, the
>supercharger in the Spitfire was used
primarily to maintain sea level
>horsepower at higher altitudes. The
supercharger was disconnected at low
>altitude.
Umpf, didn't knew
that the Spitfire had a Supercharger as well. At least
the German BF109 had
the same system too and it could be activated during
dogfight for about 5
minutes. The engine had a supercharger that had
limited boost with a
pressure valve. This valve stays closed when the
system got activated
therefore produced more boost.
>All of us who modify our Engines and
race our cars are shortening our
>engines lives
anyway.
Unfortunately yes, but with WI it helps to increase life !
Otherwise
deotnation and preignition my happen what kills the internals.
With WI,
these bad signs can be lowered what helps to keep the fun longer
:-)
The only problems are overcooling and rust. I'm positive that the
large
engines in the WW2 fighters where not using much aluminum parts like
heads
and intakes. Therefore injectioning water did some bad to the
internals
when used too long. With todays material, I don't see big problems
i nthis
case anymore.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:17:26
EST
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S: HP
Calculation
What is the formula for calculating HP when you know your
cars weight, time and trap speed through the quarter mile? Is the product
of this calculation the HP at the wheels or the crank? Regards
Charles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:04:08
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HP Calculation
Here is a simple calculator from the DSM
world:
http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htmJust
remember these are "rough" estimates.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
StealthCT@aol.com>To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: HP Calculation
>Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:17:26
EST
>
>What is the formula for calculating HP when you know your
cars weight, time
>and trap speed through the quarter mile? Is the
product of this
>calculation the HP at the wheels or the crank?
Regards Charles
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 07:05:41
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: HP
Calculation
There are a couple of ways to approach this. These are
at best
approximations and subject to error from a number of factors not
considered,
but it will give you an idea. Try both calculations and you
will find that
the results will rarely agree. Really what it tells you
is the HP required
to do what was done, not how much HP the thing that did it
actually
produces.
1320 time:
hp = weight / (ET /
5.825)^3
or 1320' speed:
hp = weight * (speed / 234)^3
This is
(obviously) HP at the wheels.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> What is the formula for calculating HP when you
know your cars
> weight, time and trap speed through the quarter
mile? Is the
> product of this calculation the HP at the wheels or
the crank?
> Regards Charles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 06:08:46
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HP Calculation
Go to the Tech Page at my web site. I have a
section there with
formulas and calculators (links to other sites) that will
tell you
more than you want to know. Web searches often turn up good
finds
also. I believe most of these calculators are guessing at engine
HP
(I would think using V8-powered real-wheel drive cars as examples
for
their empirical formulas, maybe with drag slicks and
perfect
launches?).
You can use simple physics formulas for
calculating average and
instantaneous *wheel* power (which is the only kind
that matters on
the streets). I have a review at the link below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-fwp.htmJohn
Lawlor has a book out with tons of this stuff in it: Auto Math
Handbook -
Basic Calculations, Formulas, Equations and Theory for
Automotive
Enthusiasts, 1992, HPBooks, 146 p.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
StealthCT@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 19, 2001 6:17 AM
Subject: Team3S: HP Calculation
What is
the formula for calculating HP when you know your cars
weight, time and trap
speed through the quarter mile? Is the product
of this calculation the
HP at the wheels or the crank? Regards
Charles
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:22:32
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S:
5 Speed Viscous Coupling
I have a quick question that those of you have
taken the Getrags apart will
be able to answer for me (Cough, cough,..
Jeff!!!) :-)
A friend of mine just bought a '92 RT/TT, and was told
that the center diff
or viscous coupling was shot. Upon removing the
tranny this weekend he
found that he was able to spin the inner splines of
the viscous coupling
(using the shaft that slides into it). There was
resistance, but he was
able to turn it. Everything looked good inside
the tranny, front and center
diffs looked fine, all the gears and synchros
looked good. We're just
wondering about that viscous coupling.
Didn't look damaged or blued, so
we're thinking it's OK.
Thoughts?
John Basol
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:45:21
-0800
From: George Yin <
gyin@vt.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Ticket
I got a little problem and I need some help. I got a ticket this
weekend
for having my window tint too dark. I was wondering if anyone has
some
pictures of their hunter green second generation 3k. I can get the
ticket
dismissed if I take my tint off, but that is a waste of $200. I will
appreciate anyone that can help. Heck, I'll even pay for the pictures.
Reply privately at
gyin@vt.edu or call
(540)232-4486. I need the pictures ASAP.
George
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:18:00
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Vr4 Downpipe recommendations?
> The Stillen is of an
overall better quality made compared to
> the others. It also includes a
flex section to reduce the
> stress to the contections. The flanges are
made better than
> from the ATR. Its lenght is exactly to the stock
cat-back
> and fits very good. As it replaces the front precat
already
> it is my recommendeation and the higher price (you can find
> it below $400) is ok for the quality.
Is it possible to get the
Stillen pipe with flanges to fit a main cat on it?
Does it also have the O2
sensor connections for later model cars?
I've got the Alamo pipe and the
construction quality is terrible. The rear
exhaust manifold flange
doesn't line up with the flange on the pipe, so
exhaust leaks around it, the
pipe bangs against the frame near the same
location, and now the flex section
is deteriorating and falling apart.
Unhappy. :-( I know Alamo
has a lifetime warranty on the pipe, but I don't
want to have to go through
this again in another year.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 15:32:22
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: two questions
Here's a quick question or two. (First thanks for
the previous advice).
It may seem silly, but do our cars require a
spacer beneath the
battery to prevent current leak out (mine came w/ one,
though i was
never concerned with it on other, more normal cars)? In essence
I
suppose the rubber of the tires shoudl act as an insulator. I think
roger
was on the right track with the battery being part of my problem
(under
rated, for one)- and perhaps also the alternator which i just
removed and
am having tested. Secondly, someone had installed a cheap
viper alarm
system under the dash and left a real mess of the wires, plus
part of the
unit had corroded into oblivion. Anyway, I have these two
bosch 12v relays
with 5 male spade terminals that sat up high in the
underdash i was
curious about. I thought probably it was from the alarm
install, but
wasnt sure. They're black and have 0 332 204 150 numbers on
each. I
thought I
might ask first before I chunked them into the
trash bin - they sure dont
appear in the manual, but that at times is
abstract. Thanksamil...
later,
john 93 stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:51:31
-0800
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Problem
Ok so I am a moron, the problem origionally
occured when I pulled out the
radio and cd player do to cd problems... found
a blown fuse. Ok... So I had
the radio just sitting there in the
brackets didn't bother putting the
screws back in to hold it in place if I
was just going to be pulling it back
and forth trying to get the cd player to
work... well after driving around
like that for awhile... I started having
intermittent operation... well
playing around with it I noticed that if I
touched the sides of the dual din
bracket to the mounting bracket the stereo
would come on and then go off...
closer inspection showed a spark when the
connection was made...
Well since the stereo needs to be properly
grounded (-12v) to operate,
without the screws forming a connection between
the stereo bracket and the
mounting bracket (there is a plastic insert in
between the two)the stereo
just wouldn't run...
Thanks for the advice
guys... but I guess it was the ID10.T error!
Justin
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
[mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:26 AM
To:
Maupin, Justin
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt. st
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Problem
Hi Justin,
Sounds
like you have a bad connection in the back of the radio. They
are
really easy to remove, and you can check those connections back
there.
Carefully pry the plastic radio trim away (I've found that prying from
the
bottom works best) and set it aside. Remove the 4 phillips head
screws
facing
you, making sure you have a grip on the radio! It is
now in your hands,
pull
it carefully toward you and set it securely on the
center console. Inspect
the
wires for broken connections, the
connectors for loose plugs, and the like.
Also, be aware that black
electrical tape _may_ mean that someone has
'tapped'
into these wires for
power to a radar detector or the like. These
connections
sometimes
break. If you or someone you know has some electrical experience,
check
all the connections with a voltmeter for power and ground connections,
and
let us know what you find!
Best of luck,
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl
White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester(NY)
"Maupin, Justin"
wrote:
> I have discovered a strange new problem with my car...
wondering if anyone
> has any ideas... My stock head unit, 2 din, has
intermittent operations...
> sometimes it will work and sometimes it
won't... I get in the car one
time
> and the lights are on the
clock display, the next time I get in its blank
> and pressing the power
button does nothing.
>
> If anyone has any ideas...
>
>
Justin
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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You Yahoo!?
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 16:09:41
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Problem
You are not a moron - a moron cannot uncover his
own mistakes.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Maupin,
Justin [SMTP:Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001
3:52 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt. st
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: New Problem
>
> Ok so I am a
moron, the problem origionally occured when I pulled out the
> radio and
cd player do to cd problems... found a blown fuse. Ok... So I
>
had
> the radio just sitting there in the brackets didn't bother putting
the
> screws back in to hold it in place if I was just going to be pulling
it
> back
> and forth trying to get the cd player to work... well
after driving around
> like that for awhile... I started having
intermittent operation... well
> playing around with it I noticed that if
I touched the sides of the dual
> din
> bracket to the mounting
bracket the stereo would come on and then go
> off...
> closer
inspection showed a spark when the connection was made...
>
> Well since the stereo needs to be properly grounded (-12v) to
operate,
> without the screws forming a connection between the stereo
bracket and the
> mounting bracket (there is a plastic insert in between
the two)the stereo
> just wouldn't run...
>
> Thanks for the
advice guys... but I guess it was the ID10.T error!
>
>
Justin
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Ken Stanton [mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Saturday, March 17,
2001 7:26 AM
> To: Maupin, Justin
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt. st
(E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: New Problem
>
>
> Hi
Justin,
>
> Sounds like you have a bad connection in the back of
the radio. They are
> really easy to remove, and you can check those
connections back there.
> Carefully pry the plastic radio trim away (I've
found that prying from the
> bottom works best) and set it aside.
Remove the 4 phillips head screws
> facing
> you, making sure you
have a grip on the radio! It is now in your hands,
> pull
> it
carefully toward you and set it securely on the center console.
>
Inspect
> the
> wires for broken connections, the connectors for
loose plugs, and the
> like.
> Also, be aware that black electrical
tape _may_ mean that someone has
> 'tapped'
> into these wires for
power to a radar detector or the like. These
> connections
>
sometimes break. If you or someone you know has some electrical
>
experience,
> check all the connections with a voltmeter for power and
ground
> connections,
> and let us know what you find!
>
> Best of luck,
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
>
Organizer - 3SI Rochester(NY)
>
> "Maupin, Justin" wrote:
>
> > I have discovered a strange new problem with my car... wondering
if
> anyone
> > has any ideas... My stock head unit, 2 din, has
intermittent
> operations...
> > sometimes it will work and
sometimes it won't... I get in the car one
> time
> > and
the lights are on the clock display, the next time I get in its
>
blank
> > and pressing the power button does nothing.
>
>
> > If anyone has any ideas...
> >
> >
Justin
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 10:54:05
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine 'Cleaning' for lifters?
> For all those who have done
the deep cleaning bath for their engines,
> how are they doing now?
Many of us are still wondering how
> it works to see if it can help our
cars. Be in touch!
FWIW, I've done a ridiculous amount of work to
get rid of the ticking in my
engine. Some of it was definitely lash
adjuster-related, but after last
summer's thorough cleaning, I wonder if some
of the ticking wasn't valve
interference. In any case, here's the
shortened version:
Summer '99
Ticking very noticeable and
annoying. Flushed engine, ran combinations of
Marvel Mystery Oil,
Mobil1 10W30, and Mobil 10W30 to clean out any crap that
had built up in
there. Marginal results. Ran some industrial
strength
valve/injector cleaner (BG 44K) through. Ticking went
away.
Summer '00
Ticking started returning. For other reasons, I
found out that I had a lot
of carbon buildup on my pistons/valves. Ran
more BG44K through. Helped,
but only a little. Then thoroughly
cleaned out
cylinders/pistons/valves/intake/etc. with Mopar Combustion
Chamber Cleaner.
Ticking (and pinging) GONE. Hasn't come back.
Engine's running like a
champ - smooth, quiet, and pulls hard.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 76,000
mi
BALD Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
AGING Stock Suspension
SOON: Firehawk SZ50EP 2?5/40/17
tires on 17" StealthTT wheels
SOON: Aftermarket Springs/Shocks/Struts
(GC/GAB?)
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 74,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:49:02
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: two questions
John,
The only reason for the spacer is
to position the battery correctly for
mounting...so the bar that holds the
battery in place is effective. Without
the spacer the battery will sit
about an inch lower and the bar that is
supposed to hold the battery tight
to the tray will not do its job.
Secondly, to drain your battery, you
need a path from the positive terminal
to the negative terminal of your
battery(your tires being rubber has nothing
to do with it..wrong
ground). The path can be either through a dome light,
some powered
electronics(ie. alarm) or a SEVERELY corroded and dirty
battery/terminals
for example.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To:
"john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: two questions
>Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 15:32:22
-0600
>
>Here's a quick question or two. (First thanks for the
previous advice).
> It may seem silly, but do our cars require a
spacer beneath the
>battery to prevent current leak out (mine came w/ one,
though i was
>never concerned with it on other, more normal cars)? In
essence I
>suppose the rubber of the tires shoudl act as an insulator. I
think roger
>was on the right track with the battery being part of my
problem (under
>rated, for one)- and perhaps also the alternator
which i just removed and
>am having tested. Secondly, someone had
installed a cheap viper alarm
>system under the dash and left a real mess
of the wires, plus part of the
> unit had corroded into oblivion.
Anyway, I have these two bosch 12v
>relays
>with 5 male spade
terminals that sat up high in the underdash i was
>curious about. I
thought probably it was from the alarm install, but
>wasnt sure. They're
black and have 0 332 204 150 numbers on each. I
>thought
I
>might ask first before I chunked them into the trash bin - they sure
dont
>appear in the manual, but that at times is abstract.
Thanksamil...
>
>later,
>john 93
stealth
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 21:34:16
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: two questions
Hello and thanks for the reply,
My
general notion of the battery spacer is/was for height placement,
yet I had
to wonder due to the behavior of the car since removing it
and replacing the
battery - plus the advice that batteries should be
spaced between concrete
and metal desks, for instance when out
of the vehicle. Well, it turns out
that the diode in the alternator showed
up bad, so I am in route to buy a
replacement tomorrow when it arrives.
It is unfortunate these days the
exceeding price for some cars.
Well, it's all part of the global
stranglization on the poor scheme at
work, I'm sure.
Peace \
/,
john 93 stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 22:40:13
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: two questions
Hello and thanks for the reply,
My
general notion of the battery spacer is/was for height placement,
yet I had
to wonder due to the behavior of the car since removing it
and replacing the
battery (now fitting better) - plus the advice that
batteries
should be
spaced between concrete and metal desks, for instance when out
of the
vehicle. Well, it turns out that the diode in the alternator showed
up bad,
so I am in route to buy a replacement tomorrow when it arrives.
It is
unfortunate these days the exceeding price for some cars.
Well, it's all part
of the global stranglization on the poor scheme at
work, I'm
sure.
Peace \ /,
john 93 stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:58:06
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power emergency
My house is dead-center of a blackout today, ans
as such the mailing
lists, and www services for your domain here will be
affected when this
happens.
I fully expect things to come back up when
it returns after a few
hours..but with all things..it may not.
Just a
heads up.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
I own a lotta cars. But in the best interests
of not having to continualy
edit this file to meet the needs of eight
specific lists, and no to awaken the
idiots within others who think -thier-
cars are the best and Im a fool for
having anything -but- thier kind of
car..I have not listed them. If Im on
the list you are reading..I have
one.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#440
*********************