team3s
Saturday, March 17
2001 Volume 01
: Number
438
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 16 Mar 2001 12:29:13 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: valve noise redux
Hey Folks, have any of you used CD2? It's
supposed to quiet noisy lifters.
I have replaced my lifters, done the ATF
trick, and still experience noisy
lifters from time to time?
Chip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 12:52:52
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Vr4 Downpipe recommendations?
Brian,
You can read
about my experience with the ATR exhaust at my web page
below. As far as fit,
I had to grind the outer edge of the flange on
the front of the downpipe
about 1/8 inch near the bolt holes in order
to fit to the front pre-cat
housing (1992 TT). Otherwise, the fit and
finish were excellent. The ATR DP
is 5 pounds lighter than the stock
DP (10 lbs vs 15 lbs) and is stainless
steel. 1991-1993 and 1994+ DPs
are different.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-atr.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
"Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet
Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Friday, March 16, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: Team3S: Vr4 Downpipe
recommendations?
All -
I've been thinking lately about a new
downpipe that would replace my
main cat (I don't have to get emmisions
testing where I live!). So
far I've found the ATR for $315 and the
Stillen for $400. Any
experience (good/bad) with these?
Thanks,
- -
Brian
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001
20:54:39
From: "John Stegall III" <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Results of gas mileage test
All right list, after going through
four tanks of gas in the past three weeks I can tell everyone where the best gas
mileage is. This is considering filling up the tank, and driving until the
orange low fuel light first flickers on. Throughout the entire run,
whatever gear I was in I sat at 3000 RPM and tried to stay at 0 vaccum.
Below is details of my little project:
Car: 1994 3000GT VR-4 (no
mods)
Fuel: 92 Octane gas from Mobile
Terrain: 60% flat, 35% small
inclines/declines, and 5% steep incline/decline (45 degrees
approximately).
My first test was driving the car in fourth gear at -10
vaccum to 0 vaccum. Doing this straight through the terrain, I managed to
get a meager 320 miles. 320 miles/19.2 gallons = 17 miles to the
gallon.
My second test was driving the car in sixth gear at -10 to 0
vaccum. Doing this straight through the terrain, I managed to get much
better mileage at 360 miles. 360 miles/19.2 gallons = 19 miles to the
gallon.
My third run was driving the car in sixth gear at -10 to 0
vaccum. I did this through most of the terrain, but whenever my (stock)
gauge tried to go above 0 vaccum, I\'d downshift into fifth gear; this was
typically on longer inclines and the one steep incline during my commute.
Doing this, I managed a whopping 390 miles on that tank. 390 miles/19.2
gallons = 20 miles to the gallon.
My fourth, and most successful run,
special thanks to Sam, was going through the entire commute in fifth gear at -10
to 0 vaccum. At no time did my car lag, not even up the steep hill.
The turbos never boosted above 0 and it was a smooth ride. When it ended,
I had managed 440 miles on the tank. That\'s right, 440 miles (mostly
highway) on 92 octane gas, no octane booster at all, nothing, and a bone stock
car. 440 miles/19.2 gallons equates to 23 miles to the gallon.
All
being said, it appears that during longer drives, its best to cruise in fifth
gear at 3000 RPM, where the engine has reached max torque. Doing this
drive I stayed steady at 80 mph. I\'m planning on doing one other run
later in which I\'ll be in 6th gear at 3000 RPM. I\'m not sure, but I
think that would put me at 100 mph. In which case that\'s where I\'d
probably get the best fuel economy.
I doubt this is really going to be
truly useful information, but at least it gives us (or me) an idea of where the
best gas mileage is (at least for city highway driving). I\'ll let the
list know later how well the fuel economy was in sixth gear at 3000 RPM and 0
vaccum (I have a feeling it would be better than fifth gear
results).
John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 12:58:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Results of gas mileage test
So in the end...we all know that
a TT without turbos gets the best gas
mileage. Right?
On Fri, 16
Mar 2001, John Stegall III wrote:
> All right list, after going
through four tanks of gas in the past three weeks I can tell everyone where the
best gas mileage is. This is considering filling up the tank, and driving
until the orange low fuel light first flickers on. Throughout the entire
run, whatever gear I was in I sat at 3000 RPM and tried to stay at 0
vaccum. Below is details of my little project:
>
> Car: 1994
3000GT VR-4 (no mods)
> Fuel: 92 Octane gas from Mobile
> Terrain:
60% flat, 35% small inclines/declines, and 5% steep incline/decline (45 degrees
approximately).
>
> My first test was driving the car in fourth
gear at -10 vaccum to 0 vaccum. Doing this straight through the terrain, I
managed to get a meager 320 miles. 320 miles/19.2 gallons = 17 miles to
the gallon.
>
> My second test was driving the car in sixth gear at
-10 to 0 vaccum. Doing this straight through the terrain, I managed to get
much better mileage at 360 miles. 360 miles/19.2 gallons = 19 miles to the
gallon.
>
> My third run was driving the car in sixth gear at -10
to 0 vaccum. I did this through most of the terrain, but whenever my
(stock) gauge tried to go above 0 vaccum, I\'d downshift into fifth gear; this
was typically on longer inclines and the one steep incline during my
commute. Doing this, I managed a whopping 390 miles on that tank.
390 miles/19.2 gallons = 20 miles to the gallon.
>
> My fourth, and
most successful run, special thanks to Sam, was going through the entire commute
in fifth gear at -10 to 0 vaccum. At no time did my car lag, not even up
the steep hill. The turbos never boosted above 0 and it was a smooth
ride. When it ended, I had managed 440 miles on the tank. That\'s
right, 440 miles (mostly highway) on 92 octane gas, no octane booster at all,
nothing, and a bone stock car. 440 miles/19.2 gallons equates to 23 miles
to the gallon.
>
> All being said, it appears that during longer
drives, its best to cruise in fifth gear at 3000 RPM, where the engine has
reached max torque. Doing this drive I stayed steady at 80 mph. I\'m
planning on doing one other run later in which I\'ll be in 6th gear at 3000
RPM. I\'m not sure, but I think that would put me at 100 mph. In
which case that\'s where I\'d probably get the best fuel economy.
>
> I doubt this is really going to be truly useful information, but at
least it gives us (or me) an idea of where the best gas mileage is (at least for
city highway driving). I\'ll let the list know later how well the fuel
economy was in sixth gear at 3000 RPM and 0 vaccum (I have a feeling it would be
better than fifth gear results).
>
> John
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 14:02:37
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Results of gas mileage test
Thanks for sharing. I have been
curious about this myself.
- -----Original
Message----------------------------------------------
From: John Stegall III
[mailto:john.stegall@e247.com]
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 1:55 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Results of gas mileage test
All right list, after going
through four tanks of gas in the past three
weeks I can tell everyone where
the best gas mileage is. This is
considering filling up the tank, and
driving until the orange low fuel light
first flickers on. Throughout
the entire run, whatever gear I was in I sat
at 3000 RPM and tried to stay at
0 vaccum. Below is details of my little
project:
Car: 1994
3000GT VR-4 (no mods)
Fuel: 92 Octane gas from Mobile
Terrain: 60% flat,
35% small inclines/declines, and 5% steep incline/decline
(45 degrees
approximately).
My first test was driving the car in fourth gear at -10
vaccum to 0 vaccum.
Doing this straight through the terrain, I managed to get
a meager 320
miles. 320 miles/19.2 gallons = 17 miles to the
gallon.
My second test was driving the car in sixth gear at -10 to 0
vaccum. Doing
this straight through the terrain, I managed to get much
better mileage at
360 miles. 360 miles/19.2 gallons = 19 miles to the
gallon.
My third run was driving the car in sixth gear at -10 to 0
vaccum. I did
this through most of the terrain, but whenever my (stock)
gauge tried to go
above 0 vaccum, I\'d downshift into fifth gear; this was
typically on longer
inclines and the one steep incline during my
commute. Doing this, I managed
a whopping 390 miles on that tank.
390 miles/19.2 gallons = 20 miles to the
gallon.
My fourth, and most
successful run, special thanks to Sam, was going through
the entire commute
in fifth gear at -10 to 0 vaccum. At no time did my car
lag, not even
up the steep hill. The turbos never boosted above 0 and it
was a smooth
ride. When it ended, I had managed 440 miles on the tank.
That\'s
right, 440 miles (mostly highway) on 92 octane gas, no octane
booster at all,
nothing, and a bone stock car. 440 miles/19.2 gallons
equates to 23
miles to the gallon.
All being said, it appears that during longer
drives, its best to cruise in
fifth gear at 3000 RPM, where the engine has
reached max torque. Doing this
drive I stayed steady at 80 mph.
I\'m planning on doing one other run later
in which I\'ll be in 6th gear at
3000 RPM. I\'m not sure, but I think that
would put me at 100
mph. In which case that\'s where I\'d probably get the
best fuel
economy.
I doubt this is really going to be truly useful information, but
at least it
gives us (or me) an idea of where the best gas mileage is (at
least for city
highway driving). I\'ll let the list know later how well
the fuel economy
was in sixth gear at 3000 RPM and 0 vaccum (I have a feeling
it would be
better than fifth gear results).
John
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 13:08:28
-0800
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Results of gas mileage test
> Throughout the entire run,
whatever gear I was in I sat at 3000 RPM and
tried to stay at 0 vaccum.
On my 92 TT stock Vacuum gauge, as in accurate as it is, I find
it
impossible to stay at 0 vacuum unless I am continually accelerating, and
as
I cannot continually accelerate indefinately(but wouldn't it be fun) I
am
wondering if there is maybe something wrong with my car.
As
that was badly worded let me sum up:
If I cannot maintain a constant
3000RPM at 0 vac. do I have a vacuum leak or
some other
problem.
Although I understand that the stock gauge is highly inaccurate
to measure
boost shouldn't it still be adequate for measuring zero
vac.
Thanks,
Justin
P.S. I am going to be in Austin Texas
for 2 weeks of training, any Team3s
types out that way want to meet up, I am
interested in how my car should
sound and act.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 23:41:59
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: alarm
Hello..
Also reference a post I wrote a few months
ago entitled "FIX - Alarm
System."
I found in quite a few cars that the
door switch does not always ground
properly. If it does ground, the
alarm sets and then later when the
wind blows or anything, it again
disconnects and the alarm goes off.
Fixing this simply involved pulling the
door sensors out of the body (1
screw) and cleaning off the
contacts.
Best of luck,
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
Jim Berry wrote:
> Is
the alarm activated when it goes off ???
>
> I had a similar
problem when my alarm was set --- it would go
> off by itself. I found
that the switch under the hood [ passenger
> side by the headlight ] was
not making good contact with the
> hood and would set off the alarm. By
bending the switch up a
> little the problem went
away.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
> PS --- your English is excellent, better than some of our
U.S.
>
members.
> ============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
> To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:53 PM
> Subject: Team3S:
alarm
>
> > Hi:
> > I always apologize about my bad
english, sorry :-)
> > I have problems with the alarm of my 95 VR4.
It
> > activates alone, and at different moments. It is not
>
> inmediate, but after a while, it starts.
> > Can someone please
tell me if there's a switch or
> > something to solve this problem, or
if I can turn it
> > off, may be taking a fuse out ??.
> >
Thank you,
> >
> > Raul Cinelli from Argentina
> > 95
3000 GT VR4
> >
> >
> >
__________________________________________________
> > Do You
Yahoo!?
> > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> >
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 00:53:05
-0500
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lifter tick?
Did they ever put the "new" lifters in the newer
cars? I've got a 98 and
have never experienced the lifter tick.
If so, what year?
Michael
98 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 23:05:38
-0800
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Problem
I have discovered a strange new problem with my
car... wondering if anyone
has any ideas... My stock head unit, 2 din, has
intermittent operations...
sometimes it will work and sometimes it
won't... I get in the car one time
and the lights are on the clock
display, the next time I get in its blank
and pressing the power button does
nothing.
If anyone has any ideas...
Justin
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 03:22:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lifter tick?
According to CAPS, the "rocker arm lash
adjuster" changed part
numbers to MD337687 beginning with January 1997
production of DOHC
engines (mid 1997 model year?). From when the first cars
were
produced (April 1990) through December 1996, part number MD149309
was
used. MD337687 is listed as the replacement part for all 3S
DOHC
engines.
To determine when your car was produced, you can enter
the VIN into
the CAPS or the production date is located on a sticker on
the
B-pillar.
I would be curious to know when the newer lifters were
actually
stocked on dealer shelves. My engine was rebuilt in Spring of
1998
and I would like to think the builder used the revised
adjusters.
Unfortunately he was horrible at keeping records and never
produced a
receipt that would have the part number on it. I have
only
experienced loud adjuster ticking once (a month ago) after
letting
the car sit 3 months without starting it. The ticking
diminished
somewhat after warm up and revving the engine a little. I am
guessing
it will disappear completely once the oil is changed (Mobil 1
synth)
and the car is back on the road and used regularly.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, March 16, 2001 10:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: Lifter tick?
Did they
ever put the "new" lifters in the newer cars? I've got a 98
and have
never experienced the lifter tick. If so, what year?
Michael
98
VR4
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:20:39
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lifter tick?
I just checked my repair records for my '91 TT,
along with the part # that
Jeff just ref'd. I found that I replaced my
original lifters with the newest
style about 1 year before the car was
wrecked. Result: still ticking.
HOWEVER, the dealer that
installed them I no longer trust, and I am unsure of
if they could have been
adjusted again since I have sold the motor. I really
noticed no
improvement though on my upgrade.
Best of luck,
Ken Stanton
'91
Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer-3SI Rochester (NY)
Michael Dorsey
wrote:
> Did they ever put the "new" lifters in the newer cars?
I've got a 98 and
> have never experienced the lifter tick. If so,
what year?
>
> Michael
> 98 VR4
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:26:05
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Problem
Hi Justin,
Sounds like you have a bad
connection in the back of the radio. They are
really easy to remove,
and you can check those connections back there.
Carefully pry the plastic
radio trim away (I've found that prying from the
bottom works best) and set
it aside. Remove the 4 phillips head screws facing
you, making sure you
have a grip on the radio! It is now in your hands, pull
it carefully
toward you and set it securely on the center console. Inspect the
wires
for broken connections, the connectors for loose plugs, and the like.
Also,
be aware that black electrical tape _may_ mean that someone has 'tapped'
into
these wires for power to a radar detector or the like. These
connections
sometimes break. If you or someone you know has some
electrical experience,
check all the connections with a voltmeter for power
and ground connections,
and let us know what you find!
Best of
luck,
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI
Rochester(NY)
"Maupin, Justin" wrote:
> I have discovered a
strange new problem with my car... wondering if anyone
> has any ideas...
My stock head unit, 2 din, has intermittent operations...
> sometimes it
will work and sometimes it won't... I get in the car one time
> and
the lights are on the clock display, the next time I get in its blank
>
and pressing the power button does nothing.
>
> If anyone has any
ideas...
>
> Justin
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:30:29
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine 'Cleaning' for lifters?
Hello everyone,
For all those who
have done the deep cleaning bath for their engines,
how are they doing
now? Many of us are still wondering how it works to
see if it can help
our cars. Be in touch!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:05:56
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Custom Carbon Fiber Hood
Check out
www.carbonfiberhoods.comThey
have a custom group order available.
According to their websit - it is
$450 per hood with a group order of 5
hoods.
That is cheap
cheap. If we can get 5 orders for $450 per hood, plus
shipping (maybe
$100 or so), then I would love to do this.
Anyway - whoever would like to
do this - contact me at
overclck@starband.netThe hood I
am concentrating on will be the 2nd Gen hood - and we can add air
vents and
stuff as long as its not too much of a change from the standard
hood (a vent
or two). If anyone is interested in the 1st gen hood -
www.carbonfiberhoods.com already
carries them, but is anyone is interested
in a custom one, I can handle that
also - depending upon who contacts me
~seriously~ interested.
Like
I mentioned - if you are interested in either hood, contact me at
overclck@starband.net (PLEASE NOT ON THE
MAILING LIST) and once we get a few
people interested - we will finalize all
the details. The hoods will be
made by Carisma.
Any questions
about the hoods - feel free to ask on the list - but there is
not too much to
explain about a lightweight carbon fiber hood.
Thanks For Your
Time
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:34:34
-0500
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air
charger whistle?
I must be extra special because I have all the
noises. I get the turbo
whining on spool up and the I get to hear the
goose / owl noise. I have
come to like that sound. Plus it is a
great way to really start a
conversation about the car. If you were
driving in someone else's car for
the first time and heard a goose / owl
sound from under the hood.. Wouldn't
you ask ..."What was that?," or you
might hear, "Did you hear that noise"
So it makes for a good
conversation lead about.. YOUR CAR of COURSE!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Darc
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 12:47 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?
Mark;
Some
make no noise at all. No honking noise, and no whistle to speak of.
The
whistle may be heard if you listen really close, as on mine, but I
have to
be paying more attention to listening for it than to my driving
;-)
I replied to Rogers original post on this but inadvertently hit reply
rather
than reply to all, which would have posted to the list. So I will post
his
response to me back here for your information. It reaffirms what I have
have
just . I trust you do not mind eh Roger ;-)).
>Roger... do I
assume this means lack of the whistling sound is also okay
>with this
installation?
Yes, no problem. I learned that it highly depends on how
much the BPV is
pushed into the bottom of the intake rubber part. I had the
FIPK for a long
time and never experienced the goose under the hood. I then
changed to the
HKS and later went back and voila, got the goose as well as
some BOV like
sound.
>The honking goose may or may not appear with
this
>installation as has been discussed at length previously. However,
absence
or
>presence of this whistle has never been discussed to
the same length. Must
>it be present, or like the GOOSE, is it a matter of
being noticeable on
some
>cars and not on others?
I never
heard the blow off sound on my car (i.e whistle) but of course it
became more
noticeable the higher the boost was cranked (more blow off)
Later,
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:37:59
-0500
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Turning
rotors
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
--Boundary_(ID_EASLsIRyGCWM1BRftIeQ7g)
Content-type: text/plain;
charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
My rotors are shot,
if I am going 80MPH+ and use the brakes hard (Like you
just past a cop kinda
hard) then my cars shakes like a mother f____er
How hard is it to turn the
rotors? How much should I expect to pay to have
this done by a
garage?
Or are used / replacements a better way to
go
Thanks
Steve
'91 3000 VR4
180K
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:22:23
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turning
rotors
<excerpt><color><param>0000,0000,8080</param>My
rotors are shot, if I am
going 80MPH+ and use the brakes hard (Like you just
past a cop kinda
hard) then my cars shakes like a mother
f____er
<fontfamily><param>Arial</param><smaller>How
hard is it to turn the
rotors? How much should I expect to pay to have
this done by a garage?
Or are used / replacements a better way to
go
</smaller></fontfamily></color>
</excerpt><<<<<<<<
Most
brake shops will inspect brakes for free.
They will lie to you of
course, but you get a chance to look in there to
see if you have any
problems.
Check to see if you have any pad left. If you are down to
the metal,
there's your problem. Replace the pads and turn the rotors. Brake
shops
should do this for about $100-$150 (not at a dealer, of course) for
both
sides. Stock replacement pads are about $65 a set (I think) plus
an
hour's labor ($35-65) plus turning rotors ($10 each), so that's
about
$150 tops. Watch to make sure that they DO NOT use an impact wrench
to
tighten your lug nuts -- that can warp the rotor. Insist they use
a
manual torque wrench. A dealer will charge you $300 or more to do
all
this.
If you know what you are doing, you can change pads in
10 minutes per
side, so don't let them give you a bunch of crap about how
long it takes.
Presumably, a brake shop knows what it is doing.
As for the rotor, you can take it off yourself easy as pie. Just
jack up
the car, remove the front wheels, reach around behind the caliper
and
take out the two big bolts holding the caliper on, and the caliper
slides
right off. Lay it on a bucket or cement block so you don't stretch
the
brake hoses. Grab the rotor and pull it straight off. You may have
to
whack it with a rubber hammer to break it loose from the rust
and
corruption, but it should come right off. Take the rotors to a brake
shop
to get them turned. My shop charges me $5 each, but others should do
it
for $10 or so per rotor. If the shop says you are worn down past
the
recommended thickness, then order a set of new rotors (I
prefer
Porterfield cryogenically treated stock rotors, available for $150
each
less our 20% club discount). Install a new set of pads (Porterfield
R4S
is good) and you are back in business.
Our brakes are the
worst part of our magnificent cars, but they are very
easy to work on.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 14:24:30
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fwd: FW: MOMO Harness - Safety Issue
Please forgive me if this
has made the rounds here, but MOMO is trying
to get the word out about
possible defects in some of their harnesses.
- -Steve
'92
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Coco Strayer
[mailto:coco@trackschedule.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 11:03
AM
To: Trackschedule.Com News!
Subject: MOMO Harness - Safety
Issue
Trackschedule.Com News! -
http://www.trackschedule.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 16:19:12 -0500
> From: NASA-VA
Rep Jon Felton <
nasa-va@juno.com>
> Subject: Fw:
Notice re MOMO Harness Belts
>
> FYI... safety-related so please
read on...
> ____
>
> MOMO Automotive has determined that a
defect exists in certain
> of its racing harnesses which causes the
harnesses to be unsafe.
> These harnesses, which bear the MOMO Corse or
MOMO name
> (and in the case of certain Dodge Vipers only, the label
"ACR")
> have labels on the lap strap referring to one or more of the
following
> certification numbers: "FIA B-143.T/98," "FIA
C-154.T/98,"
> "FIA D-153.T98," "FIA D-142.T/98," "SFI" or "SFI
16.1."
> Only MOMO harnesses marked as FIA or SFI certified are
involved.
>
> USE OF THESE HARNESSES SHOULD CEASE
IMMEDIATELY
>
> We are attempting to reach purchasers of these
harnesses directly but
> would appreciate it if you would contact your
membership with this
> information as soon as possible and instruct your
marshals to check
> for these harnesses and to prevent them from being
used in any races.
> If you have any other methods or can suggest any
other means of notifying
> drivers of this please contact
> Darick
Schmitt of MOMO Automotive at (800) 749-MOMO, or
>
daricks@momousa.com <
mailto:daricks@momousa.com>.
>
Thank you for your
assistance.
______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 15:26:43
-0500
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Team3S: High stock boost?
Hi list.
I just installed my after
market boost gauge yesterday and went for a run.
Last night it was hitting at
about 10 psi. Today when I pushed it I got a
reading of 12.5 psi and
than again at 13 psi! WOW! I still haven't got in
my new NGK
plugs so I still have the stutter under load, but I did notice
that the car
would stutter right when peak boost would hit. Is it possible
that the
high boost is blowing the crappy plugs (Autolite Platinum... dealer
put them
in, not me) out? The gap on the plugs is surprisingly low at
.037.
I was going to add in a bleeder valve this weekend, as well.
But I was
going to set it at 13.5 psi or a little lower until I could get a
proper BC.
I still do not have the gauge mounted so I went ahead and took it
out until
the pod comes in. The car may be boosting even higher than
13.5 psi. I
didn't really have enough open road to open it up beyond
3rd today.
So now I have two questions:
1) The
stutter: Is there a reason it occurs at peak boost? Does
this
sound like something that could be realted to the plugs / wires, or with
it
happening at peak could it be something else?
2) High
boost: Stock boost should be somewher around 10 psi for my
second
gen. What could be causing the high levels? I am going to
be replacing all
of the vaccuum hoses as a lot of them are showing their
age. Could this be
the reason I am boosting so high? A possible
leak in the hose to the boost
solenoid? I checked it as best I could,
but I did not see any signs of
cracks or holes. This assumes I was
looking at the right hose... The one I
was inspecting is the upper hose
on the right solenoid (if you are facing
the car from the front). Is
that the right hose?
I appreciate any help you guys can offer on
this. I have some a long way on
as far as my knowledge of these cars is
concerned and it's greatly in part
of this list.
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle /
Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (K&N Air Charger / Green)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#438
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