team3s
Friday, March 16
2001
Volume 01 : Number
437
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Mar 2001 13:13:40 EST
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: RT
Disc Brake up grade, Please help
I have found a parts source on line :
"Buy Automotive Parts and Accessories
from CarParts.com"; "
http://www.alistauto.com/partsstore.html".
This source
has a section for our cars that includes most if not all
replacement parts
for our cars by model.
In the brake section, it
lists all the calipers, rotors, (standard and
slotted), and pads, (even full
metalic), and braded brake lines. But what I
need to know is do I need
a larger than the 16" factory rim that I have on my
car, and are there any
other parts that are needed. I have the ABS feature
on my car.
Any help would be appreciated.
Merrisa
RT 24Valve
non-turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:28:35
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question & answ
ers.
> I am hoping Jim can help me and us out with my
>
questions. I'm still wondering about the
> "anti-dumping
valve".
Since Jim's friend is a DSM guy, I would guess that the
"anti-dumping valve"
he is talking about is a clutch restrictor. It is
just a flow restriction
orifice that slows the rate of pressure drop in the
slave cylinder when the
clutch is released. They are found on 2G DSM
cars, but I haven't seen one
mentioned by anyone on our cars. Might be
worth checking out though.
Instructions are here:
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htm
I
just did my clutch replacement, so I'm not really excited about taking
apart
my engine compartment to get at the slave cylinder again. Anyone
have
theirs accessible that can verify if this thing exists on our cars or
not?
If it isn't found on a 1G car, it might be on a 2G car. 1G DSM
cars didn't
have it, most 2G DSM cars do (95 and later).
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:57:38
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RT Disc Brake up grade, Please help
Merrisa,
The parts you
need to upgrade the front brakes are the rotors, calipers,
hubs, and
spindles. You may also need to change the ABS sensors. I know for
a fact
that the 3000gt 16" wheels will fit over the 91-93 big brakes, but
i'm not
sure about the stealth 16" wheels, or the 94+ big brakes.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:39:40
-0800
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Norco
Does anyone have, or can they get me a number for a direct line to
Norco "
Parts" i.e.: Bill.. Their toll free number (i.e. 1-888-etc)
does not work
from Canada, and they are not responding to email thus far.
Maybe they check
the latter
infrequently.
Thanks
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:18:24
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Norco
This info is from the Garage page at my web
site.
Norco Mitsubishi
Corona,
California
888-689-1788
909-735-7100
ask for Bill or Paul
mitsparts@pe.netparts@norcomits.com http://www.norcomits.com/I have
dealt with Tallahassee Mitsu several times and highly
recommend
them.
Tallahassee Mitsubishi
2417 W. Tennessee St.
Tallahassee, FL
32304
888-825-5648
ask for Shawn or Jeremy
tallmits@mindspring.com http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 12:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: Norco
Does anyone
have, or can they get me a number for a direct line to
Norco "Parts"
i.e.: Bill.. Their toll free number (i.e. 1-888-etc)
does not workf rom
Canada, and they are not responding to email thus
far. Maybe they check the
latter
infrequently.
Thanks
Darc
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:00:11
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question & answ
ers.
That sounds exactly like what Rob described it as doing.
I
believe the "anti dumping valve" is the same thing as the
clutch
restrictor.
Any idea why Mitsubishi put them on.
I can't get
your web site to come up.
- -----Original
Message-----------------------------------------------------
From: Jannusch,
Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 11:29
AM
To: 'Jeff Lucius';
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question &
answ
ers.
> I am hoping Jim can help me and us out with my
>
questions. I'm still wondering about the
> "anti-dumping
valve".
Since Jim's friend is a DSM guy, I would guess that the
"anti-dumping valve"
he is talking about is a clutch restrictor. It is
just a flow restriction
orifice that slows the rate of pressure drop in the
slave cylinder when the
clutch is released. They are found on 2G DSM
cars, but I haven't seen one
mentioned by anyone on our cars. Might be
worth checking out though.
Instructions are here:
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htm
I
just did my clutch replacement, so I'm not really excited about taking
apart
my engine compartment to get at the slave cylinder again. Anyone
have
theirs accessible that can verify if this thing exists on our cars or
not?
If it isn't found on a 1G car, it might be on a 2G car. 1G DSM
cars didn't
have it, most 2G DSM cars do (95 and later).
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:35:22
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.
Thanks, for the
response.
Ok, my car doesn't smoke under any of those conditions nor does
it smoke all
the time. It only smokes after I've let it idled for a few
moments. You
barely see the smoke while it's idling, but once the car
starts moving
again it'll usually let out a huge puff of blue smoke. But as I
drive the
smoke goes away. When I come to a stop and let it idle again, like
at a
light or stop sign, the process repeats.
My spark plugs show no
traces of oil, except a little on the threads.
I'm almost sure it's not
the rings since I got good number from a
compression test done last
week.
Michael Bulaon
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
WALTER D. BEST <
WDBO39@erols.com>
To: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about worn
valve stem seals.
> Usually from what I have heard you'd know if
you valve stems were worn if:
> 1. you cars smokes when it is started, or
2. when you get on it hard and
let
> off quickly you'll get a puff of
blue smoke.
>
> Now if it smokes all the time it might even be your
rings. But you spark
> plugs should show signs of burning oil, if it
burns it all the time.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Dave
Best
>
http://davebest.topcities.com/>
>
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:59:20
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.
You may also want to
consider one of the turbos might be leaking (assuming
you have a TT)
It
could be puddling in the turbine while idling, and then being blown
through
the very hot converters when the exhaust pressure is high during
accelerating. (until the puddle is eliminated, then puddles back up when
you idle again)
Wayne
At 04:35 PM 3/15/01 , Michael Bulaon
wrote:
>Thanks, for the response.
>
>Ok, my car doesn't smoke
under any of those conditions nor does it smoke all
>the time. It only
smokes after I've let it idled for a few moments. You
>barely see
the smoke while it's idling, but once the car starts moving
>again
it'll usually let out a huge puff of blue smoke. But as I drive the
>smoke
goes away. When I come to a stop and let it idle again, like at a
>light
or stop sign, the process repeats.
>
>My spark plugs show no traces
of oil, except a little on the threads.
>
>I'm almost sure it's not
the rings since I got good number from a
>compression test done last
week.
>
>Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 19:10:58
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.
Yes I do have a TT. I
was also considering that one of my turbo's may be
bad. The rear turbo's i/c
pipe does have a slight film of oil, as does the
Y-pipe. However I've had
this problem since I got the car in August. I
recently changed my downpipe to
an ATR. When taking off the stock dp, I saw
no indications of oil in the dp.
Also when gutting my cat's, I saw no sign
of oil in the
pre-cats.
Because of this, I am more inclined to thinking that the smoke
is coming
from worn valve stem seals.
Will be taking off dp again this
weekend to determine which engine back is
smoking. Will inspect dp as well
for oil.
Anyone else have any ideas or suggestion.........
Michael
Bulaon
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: Team 3s
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about worn
valve stem seals.
> You may also want to consider one of the
turbos might be leaking (assuming
> you have a TT)
> It could be
puddling in the turbine while idling, and then being blown
> through the
very hot converters when the exhaust pressure is high during
>
accelerating. (until the puddle is eliminated, then puddles back up when
>
you idle again)
>
> Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:36:34
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Bad Gas Milage?
I was looking through the archives and I noticed
that a lot of people report
getting anywhere from 22 - 28 mpg on their
TT's. Unmodified I was getting an
absolute best of 20.5 mpg.
That was only once, on a long 6th gear, 60 mph
freeway cruise. Usually
I average 12 - 13, mixed, going as low as 10 mpg
with city only
driving.
Two points to note: From the factory my car would peak
boost to 1 kg/cm2
(14.22 psi), and it would attempt to hold .95 kg/cm2 (~
13.6 psi)- it was
like this from the begining with no modifications.
Also my car would put
13.6 second quarter mile times on my G-tech,
unmodified - my friends '95 with
less miles did a 14.1 best time on the same
G-tech.
Clearly, for some reason my car just makes more power then the
average TT,
but this still doesn't account for the huge gas milage
difference, especially
in freeway condiditons where it is not boosting at
all - after market boost
guage shows a lot of vacum at 60 mph in
6th.
Is it possible that my car is running a very overly rich condiditon
which is
surpressing knock - thus allowing the boost spikes, and over-all
high boost
levels. Can the 360cc injectors run overly rich at 14 - 15
psi? I was under
the impression that they were at or near 100% IDC at
15 psi in high rpm.
I reset the ecu and the boost levels dropped off to
the more normal 12 psi
for about a day of driving, but the next morning when
I started the car and
warmed it up, boost was spiking back up to 14+ psi and
trying to hold 13 - 14
psi.
Is there an easy way ( no data logger) to
test for a rich condiditon? Other
then the huge amount of soot on the
exhaust pipes (which I think is normal
for cars that are tuned to run on the
rich side of things) I don't have other
problems with the car, it fires up
instantly, and runs smoothly with no
stumbles. With the exception of
the soot, are there obvious signs of a rich
mixture - if it is running rich
what is the most likely problem - bad O2
sensors?
This is a
'97 VR-4, California car ~ 40K miles - best gas milage w/o mods
20.5,
best milage with mods 18.3 mpg (intake, manual boost controller, gasket
matched intake and exhaust.... etc)
Thanks
Cyrus
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 19:59:30
-0800 (PST)
From: "charles pendleton" <
gotmilk2000@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:58:14 -0600
I have a 92 base model
stealth that didnt come with power windows or locks.
I purchased a set of
both from a salvage ( wiring harnesses, locks, power
window
guides/rails...everything) and installed them in my doors. the
problem
is that i cant get power to anything in the door execpt for the door
light(
which i already had). I checked all the conections and they are snug,
the
locks and windows work when powered. Is there something i should know
about
the harness in the body that needs to be connected of is there a fuse
i may
need? If anyone could help me with this or if someone could tell me
the
color purposes( blue w/ yellow stripe=12v constant power, ect....) .
Thank
you ahead of time for any
help.
charles pendleton
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:55:14
-0600
From: "charles pendleton" <
gotmilk2000@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: power window add on
I have a 92 base model stealth that didnt
come with power windows or locks.
I purchased a set of both from a
salvage ( wiring harnesses, locks, power
window
guides/rails...everything) and installed them in my doors. the
problem
is that i cant get power to anything in the door execpt for the door
light(
which i already had). I checked all the conections and they are snug,
the
locks and windows work when powered. Is there something i should know
about
the harness in the body that needs to be connected of is there a fuse
i may
need? If anyone could help me with this or if someone could tell me
the
color purposes( blue w/ yellow stripe=12v constant power, ect....) .
Thank
you ahead of time for any
help.
charles pendleton
Shop online without a credit
card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 20:53:23
-0800 (PST)
From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: alarm
Hi:
I always apologize about my bad english, sorry
:-)
I have problems with the alarm of my 95 VR4. It
activates alone, and
at different moments. It is not
inmediate, but after a while, it
starts.
Can someone please tell me if there's a switch or
something to
solve this problem, or if I can turn it
off, may be taking a fuse out
??.
Thank you,
Raul Cinelli from Argentina
95 3000 GT
VR4
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:11:17
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
alarm
Is the alarm activated when it goes off ???
I had a
similar problem when my alarm was set --- it would go
off by itself. I found
that the switch under the hood [ passenger
side by the headlight ] was not
making good contact with the
hood and would set off the alarm. By bending
the switch up a
little the problem went
away.
Jim Berry
PS ---
your English is excellent, better than some of our
U.S.
members.
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: alarm
>
Hi:
> I always apologize about my bad english, sorry :-)
> I have
problems with the alarm of my 95 VR4. It
> activates alone, and at
different moments. It is not
> inmediate, but after a while, it
starts.
> Can someone please tell me if there's a switch or
>
something to solve this problem, or if I can turn it
> off, may be taking
a fuse out ??.
> Thank you,
>
> Raul Cinelli from
Argentina
> 95 3000 GT VR4
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:16:30
-0800 (PST)
From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: oil change and noise
Hi again:
I'm about to change the oil
of my 95 VR4, and I would
like to know what's the best oil I can use in my
car.
The weather in my country is not extreme (not too hot
and not too
cool)
I also need some advice about a "tic tac" noise the
car is making
some times. My mechanic told me that the
noise comes from one (or more)
lifters, and that
there's no big deal, and he told me to let them
like
they are, and that the lifter can't hurt my engine.
Is this correct
??
Do I have to use some other kind of oil in this
condition or some kind
of additives (if the noise
comes from a lifter)?
Thanks a
lot,
Raul Cinelli from Argentina
95 3000 GT
VR4
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 01:53:24
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil change and noise
The ticking noise you describe is more
than likely the all-famous lifter
tick. So - your mechanic is
right. Also - it does harm nothing. All it is
is a simple
nuisance that is annoying at worst. Many people, myself
included, have
noticed that by substituting a quart of ATF (automatic
transmission fluid) in
place of a quart of regular motor oil for your next
oil change - the ticking
will more than likely go away for some time. The
ATF has more
detergents than normal oil, and approximately the same
viscosity, so it
cleans out the oil passages, thus promoting freer flowing
oil through things
like the lifters (hydraulic), and of course the crank
also. Most people
find Mobil 1 oil (fully synthetic) in a 10W-30 or 5W-30
to be appropriate for
most average conditions. Others prefer Redline Oil,
or Amsoil.
Redline and Amsoil are a tad more expensive than Mobil 1 last
time I checked,
so pick and choose - I have personally only used Mobil 1 in
my car since I
bought it, and I will stick to it - because even before the
ATF fluid trick,
the Mobil 1 quieted the lifters more than any other oil (at
least it seemed
like it did)
Of course - you could always replace your lifters with
Mitsu's new specially
redesigned lifters, although I think I remember someone
mentioning they
still got the ticking every once in a while even with the new
lifters...
- -Cody
#Hi again:
#
#I'm about to change the
oil of my 95 VR4, and I would
#like to know what's the best oil I can use in
my car.
#The weather in my country is not extreme (not too hot
#and not
too cool)
#I also need some advice about a "tic tac" noise the
#car is
making some times. My mechanic told me that the
#noise comes from one (or
more) lifters, and that
#there's no big deal, and he told me to let them
like
#they are, and that the lifter can't hurt my engine.
#Is this correct
??
#Do I have to use some other kind of oil in this
#condition or some
kind of additives (if the noise
#comes from a lifter)?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 16:19:53
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: THROTTLE BODY
What will be happened with my Mitsu, if I removed
to clean throttle body
from carbon inside
Is there a part on it that must
be aware for example Idle Switch, Idle
Stepper Control, BISS or anything
else.
After throttle body cleaned and reinstalled, may I start the engine
directly
and what about the ignition, will it be hesitate or not. Sorry for
my silly
question.
Regards,
Duta
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 02:34:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: power window add on
Many relays in the car, including the
power window relay, are
connected to the ETACS unit. I don't know if your car
has the ETACS
(Electronic Time and Alarm Control System), but you might check
the
Electrical Volume of the Service Manual and the ETACS section of
the
Stealth Technical Information Manual (starting at page 8-20) that
is
available exclusively at my web site to see if anything is
helpful.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-stim.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "charles pendleton" <
gotmilk2000@netzero.net>
To:
"team3s" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 9:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: power window add
on
I have a 92 base model stealth that didnt come with power windows
or
locks. I purchased a set of both from a salvage ( wiring
harnesses,
locks, power window guides/rails...everything) and installed
them in
my doors. the problem is that i cant get power to anything in
the
door execpt for the door light( which i already had). I checked
all
the conections and they are snug, the locks and windows work
when
powered. Is there something i should know about the harness in
the
body that needs to be connected of is there a fuse i may need?
If
anyone could help me with this or if someone could tell me the
color
purposes( blue w/ yellow stripe=12v constant power, ect....) .
Thank
you ahead of time for any
help.
charles
pendleton
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 02:54:31
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: THROTTLE BODY
This is not a silly question. First you should
purchase the service
manual for your year and model car. Manuals are
available in digital
form on CD (
http://www.manualcd.com/ ). Manuals are also
available
from the dealers and sometimes from resellers such as Voss Motors
(
http://www.books4cars.com/
).
The manual emphasizes not not let any cleaning solvent enter the
2
bypass air vents (in "front" of the throttle plate) which lead to
the
ISC (aka IAC). With the TB off the car, this should be very
easy.
As long as you are doing all the work to take the TB off the
engine,
this would be a good time to check the integrity of all
the
vacuum/pressure hoses and perhaps even change the rear spark plugs
if
it's time.
I don't see any problem with re-starting the car just
because the TB
has been removed - assuming you have not messed with the BISS
and
have reconnected all hoses and wires correctly. You should
have
disconnected and removed the battery and this will "reset" the
ECU.
Some people report unusual idle for a while after this. I have
never
experienced any bad symptoms from disconnecting the battery. Be
sure
you have radio security codes if you need them before
disconnecting
the battery.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, March 16, 2001 2:19 AM
Subject: Team3S: THROTTLE BODY
What
will be happened with my Mitsu, if I removed to clean throttle
body from
carbon inside Is there a part on it that must be aware for
example Idle
Switch, Idle Stepper Control, BISS or anything else.
After throttle body
cleaned and reinstalled, may I start the engine
directly and what about the
ignition, will it be hesitate or not.
Sorry for my silly
question.
Regards,
Duta
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 11:47:25
+0100
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
FW: Nisshinbo Brake Pads anyone ?
Hello all
Recently my car had to
be inspected, and my belowed dealer found out that my
brake pads were,
ahem,paper thin (my mistake, I sould have checked before
myself), and decided
to replace them without asking me.(gggrrr, as I had
porterfields R4S for
it).
Anyway, he put on my 92 Stealth RT/TT Nisshinbo Brake Pads, designed
for a
GTO (Z16A).
The pads are close, but not identical to my R4S, and
brake like CRAP (i.e
not more 0.8 G, while I was at 0.98 with the
R4S)
It's so bad that on wet pavement, the ABS would not kick
in.
Have you ever heard of the above pads, are they any good, will
they improve
afgter some time (granted, they have only 500 km on them now),
or should I
trash them ASAP ?
Zee
you
Henri
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 11:52:01
-0600
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
oil change and noise
And a few others have reported it completely fixed
the problem .... it seems
that 3S cars have their fair share of what I call
"Ghosts in the Machine" .....
meaning strange things that happen for some
unknown reason. Like why some cars
with K&Ns get the BOV honking
noise and others don't and some have lifter
problems and others don't and for
some the new mitsu lifters fix the problem and
for others they don't.
If I had lifter tick I think I'd probably try the ATF
fix first and then if
that didn't improve it I'd probably try the new lifters
.... but that's
just me .... I hate rattles and squeals and things like that
..... like
fingernails on a chalk board. :-)
~ Greg
cody
wrote:
<Snip>
> Of course - you could always replace your
lifters with Mitsu's new specially
> redesigned lifters, although I think
I remember someone mentioning they
> still got the ticking every once in a
while even with the new lifters...
>
> -Cody
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 12:07:58
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil change and noise
> And a few others have reported it
completely fixed the
> problem .... it seems that 3S cars have their
fair
> share of what I call "Ghosts in the Machine" .....
> meaning
strange things that happen for some unknown reason.
> Like why some
cars with K&Ns get the BOV honking noise
> and others don't and some
have lifter problems and
> others don't and for some the new mitsu lifters
> fix the problem and for others they don't.
The BOV honking noise
is either dependent on how far in the BOV is pushed
into the intake snorkel
or on just how bad your particular valve is out of
tolerances. The
reasons are pretty much known at this point due
to
experimentation.
Lifter problems are 80% maintenance issues.
How often has the oil been
changed? What kind of oil are you
using? Do you use the Mitsu oil filters
with the bypass flapper or
not? Even if you take immaculate care of your
car, how well did the
previous owner care for it? The oil MUST be changed
every 3000 miles,
or lifter tick is the result as small grit particles in
the oil slowly
accumulate in the lifters. The newer lifter design is more
resistant to
the grit getting lodged in the lifter body, but it can still
occur with a
lack of proper maintenance. Just going late on a single oil
change can
be enough to make them start ticking.
Oh, and stay away from the Fram oil
filters. They suck. I can't find the
"better" oil filter data,
but here are the results of some tests the Honda
motorcycle enthusiasts did
with filters:
http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/fram.htmlI
took one of my Eclipse Fram filters apart and they were of the same
shoddy
construction as the Fram motorcycle filters. Bad, bad,
bad. I could easily
see bits of cardboard fiber coming loose and
lodging in the lifters, or
somewhere that's even more important.
Ugh!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 10:16:52
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vr4 Downpipe recommendations?
All -
I've been thinking
lately about a new downpipe that would replace my main
cat (I don't have to
get emmisions testing where I live!). So far I've
found the ATR for
$315 and the Stillen for $400. Any experience (good/bad)
with
these?
Thanks,
- - Brian
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#437
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