team3s
Tuesday, March 13
2001
Volume 01 : Number
434
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Mar 2001 04:55:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do Octane Boosters Work?
Generally...no.
When they say
a "Five point upgrade" it really means a difference of 92 to
92.5 octane..not
92 to 97.
Nothing beats simple common sense. if your pump fuel only
supports <x>
boost on a given day..then thats all you
run.
Gottat spare car or 4 laying around like I do..THEN you can consider
the
bleeding paper-cut edge.
On Mon, 12 Mar 2001
NassiriC@aol.com wrote:
> Hi
All,
> I have a question about octane boosters - the kind you get in a
bottle at the
> auto store. I'm working on an after-market turbo
application and I'm
> concerned about knock while I'm in the process of
tuning and tweaking the
> car. I'd like to know if anyone has first
hand experience with the
> effectiveness of off-the-self octane
boosters. Do they really raise octane
> noticeably? Does
anyone have any before-and-after testimonials or brand
>
recommendations. I've heard some people say that you can raise 92-pump gas
> to around 96 - 98 with a bottle or two - this is all I need to be
safe. I've
> heard others say that you'll get only half a point at
most - 92.5. What's
> the truth here? Does anyone have any
scientific data/facts? I'd really like
> to avoid having to buy
race gas while I get the bugs worked out so any help
> here would be
greatly appreciated.
>
> In case anyone's interested, I've put my
VR-4 project on hold for a while -
> my fiancée bought a new Miata,
imagine my delight when I found out you can
> turbo charge these little
cars and make up to 300 streetable crank hp with no
> internal
modifications. Long story short my fiancée is now driving a turbo
>
charged Miata. These little motors can take 15 psi with all stock
internals
> (9.5:1 compression). My best run on the dyno so far was
239 wheel HP @ 13
> psi - that was without any tuning! I'm trying
to get it up to 15 psi, but I
> get indications of high speed knock, most
people say 15 psi should be no
> problem with the Miata motor, so until
if figure out what's causing knock, I
> want to play it safe and boost
the octane.
>
> The Miata list was no help on this subject, just a
lot of anecdotal stories
> about a friend of a friend that put a bottle
of 104+ in their car and it now
> makes 200 more HP ...... this is why
I'm asking you guys, I know I'll get a
> real answer here.
>
> If I have to run racing fuel, does anyone have any recommendations on a
> convenient/cheap source located in the SF Bay Area - East bay would be
nice.
>
> BTW - my g-tech gives me a 0 - 60 of 5.3 seconds with a
LOT of wheel spin in
> 1st and 2nd gear (still on stock tires), no
quarter mile times yet.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Cyrus
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:12:47
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Do Octane Boosters Work?
I have a friend who has a Miata with
a supercharger, but I didn't realize
there was a turbocharger for a
Miata.
My son and I routinely use off-the-shelf octane booster at the
track but
only one bottle per tank. Race fuel is mighty
expensive. I ran last time
without the octane boost and my gas mileage
was lousy, although I didn't
notice any knock. I am only running 12.5
psi boost on my '93 with a manual
boost controller. My son runs 15 psi
boost and does not have knocking when
using octane boost. The
compression ratio for the VR4 is only like 8:1, I
think, so I'm guessing the
Miata will need higher octane numbers for 9.5:1
at the same boost to preclude
detonation.
Prepare yourself for the flood of replies from list members
that know this
topic intimately.
By the way, when my son hears a car
spinning it's wheels in 1st and 2nd gear
he says, "Humph, all I hear is
inefficiency."
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
NassiriC@aol.com
[SMTP:NassiriC@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 2:48 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Do Octane Boosters Work?
>
> Hi All,
> I
have a question about octane boosters - the kind you get in a bottle at
>
the
> auto store. I'm working on an after-market turbo application
and I'm
> concerned about knock while I'm in the process of tuning and
tweaking the
> car. I'd like to know if anyone has first hand
experience with the
> effectiveness of off-the-self octane
boosters. Do they really raise
> octane
> noticeably?
Does anyone have any before-and-after testimonials or brand
>
recommendations. I've heard some people say that you can raise
92-pump
> gas
> to around 96 - 98 with a bottle or two - this is
all I need to be safe.
> I've
> heard others say that you'll get
only half a point at most - 92.5. What's
>
> the truth
here? Does anyone have any scientific data/facts? I'd really
>
like
> to avoid having to buy race gas while I get the bugs worked out so
any
> help
> here would be greatly appreciated.
>
> In
case anyone's interested, I've put my VR-4 project on hold for a while
> -
> my fiancée bought a new Miata, imagine my delight when I found out you
can
>
> turbo charge these little cars and make up to 300
streetable crank hp with
> no
> internal modifications. Long
story short my fiancée is now driving a
> turbo
> charged
Miata. These little motors can take 15 psi with all stock
>
internals
> (9.5:1 compression). My best run on the dyno so far was
239 wheel HP @ 13
>
> psi - that was without any tuning! I'm
trying to get it up to 15 psi, but
> I
> get indications of high
speed knock, most people say 15 psi should be no
> problem with the Miata
motor, so until if figure out what's causing knock,
> I
> want to
play it safe and boost the octane.
>
> The Miata list was no help
on this subject, just a lot of anecdotal
> stories
> about a friend
of a friend that put a bottle of 104+ in their car and it
> now
>
makes 200 more HP ...... this is why I'm asking you guys, I know I'll
get
> a
> real answer here.
>
> If I have to run
racing fuel, does anyone have any recommendations on a
> convenient/cheap
source located in the SF Bay Area - East bay would be
> nice.
>
> BTW - my g-tech gives me a 0 - 60 of 5.3 seconds with a LOT of wheel
spin
> in
> 1st and 2nd gear (still on stock tires), no quarter
mile times yet.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Cyrus
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 16:15:27
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re:Worn valve guides or bad turbo's?
That might have been my post
:)
I was sure it was valve seals or some more complicated thing, but
with
the suggestion of a few on this list, I looked into the turbo's
more.
Best thing to do would be to take your downpipe off, and see
WHICH
side SMOKES. This way you have it down to one bank or another
(unless
you are really unlucky, and have both messed up :)
I found the
front bank to be smoking, which is easier to work on. Then
I took off all IC
piping related to the front turbo, and found it to
be much oilier than the
rear turbo (this means, the oil was coming
from before the head itself,
yeay!). I swapped in a fresh turbo and my
smoke problem went away! Just to do
it, I swapped the rear turbo too,
since they both were in parallel on these
cars.
I think the problem all occured from someone installing a new
front
turbo on the car before I bought it. One of the three bolts
was
missing on the manifold/turbo collector (yes, held on by 2 bolts),
and
the return line gasket had orange RTV around it. What seemed to
have
happened is, when they RTV'd the lower oil return line to the oil
pan,
the RTV squished on all sides, outside, AND INSIDE. This
almost
"closed" the hole meant for oil to drain easily using
gravity.
This probably built up oil pressure inside the turbo, where it's
not
meant to be that high, and leaked into both the exhaust and
compressor
sides. The turbo I took off spins very nicely, and no damage is
done
to it, except for the blown seals.
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
> Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 06:50:23
-0500
> From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>
Subject: Team3S: Worn valve guides or bad turbo's?
>
> My 95 VR-4
has a problem where the car will smoke after idling then
> moving.(i.e
stopping at a light, then moving when it turns green.)
It is
> usually
a puff of blueish smoke so I've determined it is oil. Again
this
> only
happens I've idled for a bit. However when driving, there are
no
signs
> of smoke.
>
> Compression test done on my car has
shown good compression in all
cylinders,
> so I have ruled out the
possibility of worn rings or valve seals.
>
> After doing some
research, I have found that my problem may be worn
valve
>
guides. I was certain this was my problem since I've learned this
is
a
> common problem in our cars, and my car seemed to have the
symptoms.
With
> 98,000 miles on my car I wouldn't be
surprised.
>
> But, after doing some more research I found a post
from someone who
swore he
> had worn guides also, but it turned out to
be one of his turbo's. He
said
> oil in the i/c pipes was a clear
indication of this and that
replacement of
> his turbo's solved his
problem.
>
> There happens to be oil in my i/c piping also. Now what
I'm trying
to do is
> find out what exactly is causing me to smoke
after idling, before I
spend
> major $$$ and reduce the chance of
fixing the wrong thing.
>
> Anyone have any
suggestions/ideas?
>
> One last thing, suppose it is the valve
guides. Would I be able to
just pull
> the head off and send it to a
machine shop to get the guides fixed?
Also
> I've heard something about
the clearances for the guides being too
big? If
> so what do I do
to remedy?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 09:23:45
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FYI: Tire Size Info
I talked to the Tire Rack guys this morning
about size recommendations for
3000GTs with 16x8 or 17x8.5 rims.
What
they said:
* 3000GTs (base models) are "notoriously under-tired"
* On
??x8.5" rims, the widest recommended is 245 for track use
* On ??x8" rims,
245/??/?? are FINE for track
* 245/??/?? can go on 7" to 8.5" rims and be
"OK"
* Larger than 245/??/?? tires on 17x8.5" rims may
have
fender/suspension clearance issues
* Firestone Firehawk SZ50EP
replaces SZ50, treadwear is now
340; it was 220. Handling and wet
traction are better and
more consistent with wear.
What I make of
this:
* If you stick with stock 16x8 rims, use 245/50/16s
* If you use
17x8.5 rims, use 245/45/17 for track
* If you don't have fitment issues, 255s
would be ok for track
on 8.5" rims
* If you use 17x8.5 for drag racing or
don't corner hard,
you might want to look at 265 or 275
* Firehawk
tires: I got 21,000 miles out of the old ones,
so I could possibly get
32,000 street miles out of the
new ones. YAY!
Questions:
I know of
at least 1 person who runs 255/40/17s on 17.5" rims on a
VR-4. Anyone
with a base/SL have 255s? Do they fit? Is there any reason
they
would fit on a VR-4 and not on a base model? I think the dimensions on
the
front suspension and wheel well are almost the same...
Thanks!
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 76,000
mi
BALD Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
AGING Stock Suspension
SOON: Firehawk SZ50EP 2?5/40/17
tires on 17" StealthTT wheels
SOON: Aftermarket Springs/Shocks/Struts
(GC/GAB?)
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 74,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:45:46
-0500
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Here's what's up with GAB shocks/struts:
>
>"If you're
not dead set on GAB, we carry KYB and in case you didn't
>know, KYB makes
GAB then puts their name on it and charges more!"
>
>I'm gonna check
on that... is that right? Can't be...
>
No way in Hell
is that right.
I've owned 2 sets of KYB for my Stealth (base), and they
are crap. I went
through both sets in about 15k miles each.
I have
a set GABs all the way around, and they are definitely better, not to
mention completely different (adjustable vs non-adjustable).
I had a rear
set of KYB for about 40k, then the spring perch rusted off
while I was
driving. Luckily it was at low speed.
I will never buy a set of
KYB again, nor would I ever recommend anyone to do
so either, unless he/she
had a death wish.
Regards,
Dennis
Bretton
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:37:04
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jose Soriano [mailto:Amahoser@linkline.com]
>
> I'd suggest calling Jay (owner) at ground control
> and just
asking for a suggestion for a baseline. Tell him
> what you wanna do with
your car and how "race stiff"
> you won't mind.
Cool, that's what
I planned on doing - I just wanted to bounce some ideas
around first so I can
talk with him somewhat intelligently :) Still pretty
green
here.
> Remeber, if you do plan on track driving your car, one of
the best
> investments to make is going to a competent race
shop.
Yep, if this ends up being more than an occasional track day here
and there,
I'll be doing that.
> Run your car at the track and
see how it feels.
That's where I'm headed, and normally I'd probably run
it a while before
playing with it, but a couple of things prevent me from
doing that... 1)
worn shocks/struts that need to be replaced and
2) almost bald tires that
need to be replaced.
As for the
shocks/struts, since the GABs aren't that much more than stock
parts, I
figure I'll get the GABs. Also, since getting the ground control
kit
would keep me from having to mess with a spring compressor (don't have
to
disassemble the stock strut/shock/spring assemblies), I figured while I'm
at
it, I'd install the GC kit. Thus the springs questions...
As for
tires, I just sent another post about that, so I won't repeat
it
here.
Thanks for the advice and comments!
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:45:46
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Here's what's up with GAB shocks/struts:
The KYB factory indeed does make
GAB shocks. However, the KYB versions are
not in the same league as the
GABs. The GABs are speced differently and
although the premium may not
be totally justified, there is a quality
difference between KYB and similar
GABs.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
<snipped>
> "If you're not dead set on GAB,
we carry KYB and in case you didn't
> know, KYB makes GAB then puts their
name on it and charges more!"
>
> I'm gonna check on that...
is that right? Can't be...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 20:27:24
-0900
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
Subject: Team3S: CD
Changer Pin Out
Does anybody know what the pin out is for the stock 6
disk CD changer? I
need to make a custom cable. I assume that
this has been done before but I
didn't have much luck with the site search
engine.
Charles Williams
95 Stealth R/T Jet Black
Eagle River, AK
99577
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#434
*********************