team3s
Tuesday, March 13
2001
Volume 01 : Number
433
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Mar 2001 06:50:23 -0500
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Worn valve guides or bad turbo's?
My 95 VR-4 has a problem where
the car will smoke after idling then
moving.(i.e stopping at a light, then
moving when it turns green.) It is
usually a puff of blueish smoke so I've
determined it is oil. Again this
only happens I've idled for a bit. However
when driving, there are no signs
of smoke.
Compression test done on my
car has shown good compression in all cylinders,
so I have ruled out the
possibility of worn rings or valve seals.
After doing some research, I
have found that my problem may be worn valve
guides. I was certain this
was my problem since I've learned this is a
common problem in our cars, and
my car seemed to have the symptoms. With
98,000 miles on my car I wouldn't be
surprised.
But, after doing some more research I found a post from
someone who swore he
had worn guides also, but it turned out to be one of his
turbo's. He said
oil in the i/c pipes was a clear indication of this and that
replacement of
his turbo's solved his problem.
There happens to be oil
in my i/c piping also. Now what I'm trying to do is
find out what exactly is
causing me to smoke after idling, before I spend
major $$$ and reduce the
chance of fixing the wrong thing.
Anyone have any
suggestions/ideas?
One last thing, suppose it is the valve guides. Would
I be able to just pull
the head off and send it to a machine shop to get the
guides fixed? Also
I've heard something about the clearances for the guides
being too big? If
so what do I do to remedy?
Thanks in
advance,
Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:52:55
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basics
I get the best gas mileage if I stay about 3000rpm at
0-vacuum. 6th gear on
a vette will give you best results at speeds over
80 and you are sitting at
a low 2000 something rpm, but I believe you get
better mileage if the rpm is
at the point where the engine is making lots of
torque. 6th gear at 70 or
80 in my car will give me 25% less gas
mileage then 5th at about 3000rpm. I
just assumed it had something to
do with being on the threshold of boosting,
but not enough to need that extra
amount of fuel that running 10-15 psi is
like.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: cody <
overclck@starband.net>
To: Ken
Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Cc: Team3S <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, March 08, 2001 4:13 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Basics
>In other words - you are trying to say that like a
transmission - there is
>an initial power loss through the internals of
the engine, and with vacuum
>the loss can be more - so a car making more
than idle type power will have
a
>better efficiency per volume of fuel
to output HP. But this is also just
>engine efficiency - we also
need to mention that we are talking about fuel
>economy and wind
resistance and such... Conserving as much gas - not
trying
>to
get the most HP per volume fuel.
>
>Maybe thats why those smaller
engine cars have some higher gas milage
>ratings - cause they have to use
more of their available power output,
>therefore being closer to the
optimum engine speed for the most efficient
hp
>to fuel
ratio.
>
>At what point does the engine start losing efficiency - At
what RPM that
>is???
>Am I making
sense???
>
>-Cody
>
>
>#Matt (and
all)
>#
>#You are quite close with your theory, but off on one
point. I am
>#working on a
>#project that takes advantage of
this part of engine theory, and
>#can contribute
>#here.
>#You
said that max vacuum would be the ideal fuel efficiency point.
># I agree
that
>#that the least amount of air consumes the least amount of fuel,
however
max
>#vacuum is not true. Actually, vacuum is a force
that the engine
>#creates, and in
>#doing so does work. This
work is a very large drag force on the
>#engine, and
>#sacrafices
efficiency. The best efficiency is actually when the engine
is
>#operating at minimum vacuum, or closest to WOT. Now DON'T
take
>#this to mean
>#that WOT is the best way to get efficiency
(legal disclaimer), but
>#that is the
>#effect. Think of a Geo
Metro or other 4-cylinder - still doing
>#the same work to
>#push
the car x speed, but the throttle has to be more open to
get
>#there. This
>#amounts to less engine drag, and more
efficiency. We're talking 10-15%
>#efficiency with that drag
alone. *sigh* That's enough for tonight, I hope
>#there's more
discussion on this!! =)
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:13:24
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coolant Reserve Tank
The second tube (I have pix if you want
them) hangs out the front of the
overflow tank (the white plastic tank just
behind the left fan) and vents to
the ground. This is when the overflow
tank overflows. I have a VR-4 but
the tanks should be in the same
place.
The overflow tank is lower than the fill spout (up to the left of
the plenum
a bit) so all overflow drains downward. Then any overflow
from the overflow
drains downward. Yes it just hangs there.
I
suggest if you don't want to stain your driveway from this dripping
overflow
on hot or cold days then install a simple peanut butter jar catch
can.
I have seen leaks from my car recently and it is not overflowing and
not
leaking so I'm having trouble finding the cause. Small drips that a
$3
bottle a month can take care of are mindless anyway.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
AABOMB1@aol.com
[mailto:AABOMB1@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 11:32 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@dragnet.com;
stealth-d@starnet.netSubject:
Team3S: Coolant Reserve Tank
Hello list members. I'm sure this is a
stupid question, but I will ask
anyway:
On the coolant reserve tank,
there are two pipes connected to the cap. One
of
them comes from the
engine to it can vacuum out more coolant if the engine
is
low. The other
one is just hanging out on my car. I'm assuming that this
other pipe is
supposed to be hanging out so it can dump out any extra
coolant
- --- am
I right about this? Is it just supposed to be hanging out or is it
supposed
to be connected to something?
Thank You.
'94 3000 GT
(Naturally Aspirated DOHC)
AA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 09:08:06
-0500
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Active Aero - Thanks and Question
Some time back, there was a
thread on the Active Aero system concerning the
rear spoiler. One of you
(either Ken or Bob I think) suggested that the 2
micro-switches on the cam
gear should be suspect and replaced first, before
spending big bucks at a
dealer for a new motor assy. My rear spoiler has
been working intermittently
for some time now. It would go up and not come
down until a couple days of
driving. So this weekend, I went to Radio Shack
and picked up 2 switches for
$1.99 each, installed them and --- whoa ---
problem solved! Thanks to person
who suggested this as a fix.
On a related issue, the front spoiler is
stuck in the down position. This
happened as I was driving. It went up and
down fine several times during
the trip, then got stuck in the down position
and the AERO warning light
came on. Now the warning light comes on any time
the car is started, and
front spoiler is still stuck down. The rear spoiler
works fine until the
car is started and the warning light comes on. I removed
the access panels
under the front spoiler to access the shaft and levers that
operate the
front spoiler. I lubricated them heavily with WD40. I tried to
manually
move the linkages but couldn't. With the key in the OFF position, I
pressed
the Active Aero switch off and on several times, and the rear spoiler
works
fine, but the front spoiler still does not move. What is the next
step?
What should I be looking for?
Thanks,
Jeff
W.
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:49:47
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Active Aero - Thanks and Question
You are talking about the
front air dam (not spoiler). Have you recently
run over a curb or
something? You need to take off the whole front air dam
and look for
damage. The motor is on the passender side with a linkage to
the
driver's side. WD40 is not the lubricant of choice for this stuff
-
more like all purpose grease would be better. There's a bracket near
the
motor that can bend over and cause an interference. You can
have someone
activate the switch with the air dam off so you can observe the
motor and
linkage mechanism. Good luck.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
[SMTP:Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:08
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Active Aero - Thanks and Question
>
> Some time
back, there was a thread on the Active Aero system concerning
>
the
> rear spoiler. One of you (either Ken or Bob I think) suggested that
the 2
> micro-switches on the cam gear should be suspect and replaced
first,
> before
> spending big bucks at a dealer for a new motor
assy. My rear spoiler has
> been working intermittently for some time now.
It would go up and not come
> down until a couple days of driving. So this
weekend, I went to Radio
> Shack
> and picked up 2 switches for
$1.99 each, installed them and --- whoa ---
> problem solved! Thanks to
person who suggested this as a fix.
>
> On a related issue, the
front spoiler is stuck in the down position. This
> happened as I was
driving. It went up and down fine several times during
> the trip, then
got stuck in the down position and the AERO warning light
> came on. Now
the warning light comes on any time the car is started, and
> front
spoiler is still stuck down. The rear spoiler works fine until the
> car
is started and the warning light comes on. I removed the access panels
>
under the front spoiler to access the shaft and levers that operate the
>
front spoiler. I lubricated them heavily with WD40. I tried to manually
>
move the linkages but couldn't. With the key in the OFF position, I
>
pressed
> the Active Aero switch off and on several times, and the rear
spoiler
> works
> fine, but the front spoiler still does not move.
What is the next step?
> What should I be looking for?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Jeff W.
> Belleville, MI
> '92 VR4
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 09:29:03
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Here's what's up with GAB shocks/struts:
- -----------------from
shox.com----------------------
Dear Shox.com Customer,
Thank you for
your recent order. The total amount billed
to your credit card,
including all applicable taxes and
shipping charges is
$0
We are sorry to say that we can not fill your order
for GAB.The importer
we have been using is not shipping anything out for
about a month.They may
not resume. If you would like to check back with us
around the end on the
month I'll be happy to check in with them on this.
-
----------------------------------------------------
-
--------------from cyberauto.com--------------------
Thanks for
writing! Unfortunately, everyone is having this problem with
GAB.
Their main distributor just went belly up and it is going to be at
least 4-6
weeks until we are able to get GAB again. Please check back
with
us. If you're not dead set on GAB, we carry KYB and in case you
didn't
know, KYB makes GAB then puts their name on it and charges more!
-
----------------------------------------------------
"If you're
not dead set on GAB, we carry KYB and in case you didn't
know, KYB makes GAB
then puts their name on it and charges more!"
I'm gonna check on
that... is that right? Can't be...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:40:26
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Blitz SBC-iD
It has come time to replace my stolen EVC IV boost
controller.
I am looking at all options here but just saw the Blitz SBC-iD
new controller
and it certainly sounds like it's the best one
there.
Has anyone got any experience with it (I know it's new and
all)???
What I need from a controller is:
1) Easy
installation:
There's bugger all specialist expertise in
Ireland for tuning and the one
place I found to fit the EVC IV made a
complete balls of it.
2) Easy setup:
Most
controllers seem to need you to work the wohle way through the
rev-range in
3rd gear to set the unit up. This isn't possible as the car is
Japanese
import and restricted to 112mph.... Less than redline in 3rd.
3) Ability
to have it shipped to Ireland
4) I want it NOW NOW NOW :)
Any
advice appreciated.
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Dark Grey Metallic VR4
(japanese import)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:47:48
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Do Octane Boosters Work?
Hi All,
I have a question about
octane boosters - the kind you get in a bottle at the
auto store. I'm
working on an after-market turbo application and I'm
concerned about knock
while I'm in the process of tuning and tweaking the
car. I'd like to
know if anyone has first hand experience with the
effectiveness of
off-the-self octane boosters. Do they really raise octane
noticeably? Does anyone have any before-and-after testimonials or
brand
recommendations. I've heard some people say that you can raise
92-pump gas
to around 96 - 98 with a bottle or two - this is all I need to
be safe. I've
heard others say that you'll get only half a point at
most - 92.5. What's
the truth here? Does anyone have any
scientific data/facts? I'd really like
to avoid having to buy race gas
while I get the bugs worked out so any help
here would be greatly
appreciated.
In case anyone's interested, I've put my VR-4 project on
hold for a while -
my fiancée bought a new Miata, imagine my delight when I
found out you can
turbo charge these little cars and make up to 300
streetable crank hp with no
internal modifications. Long story short
my fiancée is now driving a turbo
charged Miata. These little motors
can take 15 psi with all stock internals
(9.5:1 compression). My best
run on the dyno so far was 239 wheel HP @ 13
psi - that was without any
tuning! I'm trying to get it up to 15 psi, but I
get indications of
high speed knock, most people say 15 psi should be no
problem with the Miata
motor, so until if figure out what's causing knock, I
want to play it safe
and boost the octane.
The Miata list was no help on this subject, just a
lot of anecdotal stories
about a friend of a friend that put a bottle of
104+ in their car and it now
makes 200 more HP ...... this is why I'm asking
you guys, I know I'll get a
real answer here.
If I have to run racing
fuel, does anyone have any recommendations on a
convenient/cheap source
located in the SF Bay Area - East bay would be nice.
BTW - my g-tech
gives me a 0 - 60 of 5.3 seconds with a LOT of wheel spin in
1st and 2nd
gear (still on stock tires), no quarter mile times yet.
Thanks in
advance
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#433
*********************