team3s
Saturday, March 10
2001 Volume 01
: Number
430
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Mar 2001 15:53:40 -0500
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: air
escape
I have this exact problem with my 1991 VR4, When I accelerate hard
I hear
that whining sound, and I also get a chemical type smell from the
car.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of raul cinelli
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:05 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: air escape
First, I'm sorry about my english, I speak spanish
but
I'll try to do my best...
Since I bought my 95 GT VR4, it makes a
noise when the
turbos start working. The noise seems to come from
under
the dash, on the left side of the car, and it is
bigger when you push the
throtle, and it dissapears as
soon as you release the throtle.
I feel the
car is slower than my former 3000 VR4, wich
was a 93 model, even when my
actual car has 20 more
horses.
The noise sounds like an Air leak, and I
even can feel
the air in my left leg sometimes when accelerating
the
car.
I tried changing the clutch pump (the one behind the
clutch
pedal), checking the hoses, and nothing, it is
always the same.
Another
thing I notice is a smell like gas, not too
strong, but it is like that.
I
need some help here please.
Thanks a lot,
Raul Cinelli from
Argentina
95 3000 GT VR4
white
pearl
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:53:27
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Basics
The best source is definitely Jeffs pages under
www.stealth316.com as he
has all the
links to the great articles.
Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
At 15:30 07.03.2001 -0800, Bob Forrest wrote:
>Use the Team3S
Search Page for *dozens* of discussions about "knock".
>
>Use the
Team3S FAQ page to read Roger's "Treatise on Knock".
(Under
>'Engines')
>
>Use Roger's home page for even
more:
www.rtec.ch>
>Best,
(from a
NON-guru),
>
>Forrest
>www.Team3S.com
>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "John Stegall III" <
john.stegall@e247.com>
> >
All right list, I need some help, especially from you gurus, Roger,
>Bob,
Matt (and anyone else I forgot -- those three just answer my
>questions
most often). My little brother recently purchased a 97
>Eclipse GS-T
Spyder and had a few questions about turbo cars. I found
>myself
shocked when I realized one question I could answer, but not give
>him any
technical background on, and the other I really had no clue.
>
>
> > The first question he asked me was what is knock. I was
able to give
>him a basic definition of what knock is and a "laymans
terms" of what
>causes it, but I really don't know any of the technical
info on it. Can
>any of you gurus give me the tech info behind knock
- what it is and its
>results on the engine?
> >
> > The
second question he asked was about better gas mileage on
turbo
>cars. To give a basic example (one he gave me), is it better
gas
>mileage to drive in fourth gear at 4000 RPM with the
turbo(s)
>boosting -10 psi, or is it better in fifth gear at 2500 RPM with
the
>turbo(s) boosting 0
psi?
>
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:26:18
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Timing
mark differences between 2 and 4 bolt blocks
As I've been working on
assembling my new 4-bolt motor, I've been noticing
some significant parts
differences that no one has mentioned in previous
discussions about the
2-bolt to 4-bolt upgrade. Most important was the one
I noticed last
night. The timing mark on the 2g oil pump does not line up
with the
timing mark on the 1g lower timing belt gear. Has anyone dealt
with
this before? I hate to think that I'll have to buy another timing
gear
since I wanted to have the motor in the car this weekend. At the same
time,
does anyone have a 4-bolt engine they're parting out? I need a
few odds and
ends. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
Jeff
V.
jeffv@1nce.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 08:54:46
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Basics
> You are quite close with your theory, but off on
one point.
> You said that max vacuum would be the ideal fuel
efficiency
> point. I agree that that the least amount of air
consumes
> the least amount of fuel, however max vacuum is not
true.
> Actually, vacuum is a force that the engine creates, and
in
> doing so does work. This work is a very large drag force on
> the engine, and sacrafices efficiency. The best
efficiency
> is actually when the engine is operating at minimum
vacuum,
> or closest to WOT. Now DON'T take this to mean that WOT
is
> the best way to get efficiency (legal disclaimer), but that is
the
> effect.
So what you are saying is that I should go WOT all
the time? Cool! Just
kidding...
Points well taken...
I suppose part of it depends on the types of roads you
drive on as
well. The ones around here are lots of long slight grades, and
curves,
etc. On a turbo car it is very easy to have it sneak into
boosting
where your fuel economy starts going WAY down. Assuming that
the roads are
pretty flat and straight (ie: a long slab of freeway like an
interstate)
then I totally agree with you that staying around "0" vacuum is
preferable.
Once you go into boost, the ECU starts dumping in large
quantities of fuel,
so you want to avoid that if possible (assuming you are
actually trying to
save fuel economy). Fluctuations in throttle
position which aren't done
gradually also increase fuel consumption - so you
want to pick a gear where
it is easy to hold speed as well.
Overall
conclusion seems to be that you want to pick the gear with the
lowest RPM
that is closest to "0" vacuum and doesn't require large changes
in throttle
position to hold your desired speed. Have I got it right?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:59:02
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Basics
For me to add my measly 2 hp ...
I noticed that
while cruising in 6th gear down from Bristol, TN toward the
Blue Ridge
Gathering last year that I got tremendous gas mileage. I think
it was
close to 24 mpg (450 miles at 19 gallons of gas). The rpms and
speed
stayed right where the cruise control was but the turbos kept spooling
and
going to vacuum.
I soon realized that a gradual slope in 6th had
the turbos spooling and this
was wasting gas. If I shift down to 5th
then there is a vacuum, slightly
higher rpms (but not much) and then back to
6th after the top.
This is the better way to maximize efficiency so yes -
depending on the road
topography this can also play into the
equation.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 ... with my rollbar test-installed last
night ... sweet!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:55
AM
So what you are saying is that I should go WOT all the time?
Cool! Just
kidding...
Points well taken... I suppose part
of it depends on the types of roads you
drive on as well. The ones
around here are lots of long slight grades, and
curves, etc. On a turbo
car it is very easy to have it sneak into boosting
where your fuel economy
starts going WAY down. Assuming that the roads are
pretty flat and
straight (ie: a long slab of freeway like an interstate)
then I totally agree
with you that staying around "0" vacuum is preferable.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:31:36
-0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt
Hey Folks, as my 29 Stealth RT tt
odometer slowly creeps higher, I'm
beginning to wonder how many miles I can
expect to get out of this car, and
at what cost. I have juts over 90k
miles and put almost 30k highway miles
per year on the car.
the car is
stock and all the service is done at the dealer. I use Mobile 1
oil and
filter every 3-4000 miles. The car runs great. the tranny
was
replaced under warranty at about 40k and is problem free. The
interior and
body are quite clean. People still ask me if it's a "new'
car.
What do you think? 90k miles isn't a lot for me. My 90VW
has 190k. My
buddy's 85 IROC Camero has almost 290k. My concern
is that the Stealth is a
complicated car that is expensive to fix. I
want the car to be reliable.
But if I need/should replace the turbos at my
120k service along with the
usual $1200 bill that's a lot of $$$ to sink into
the beast. On the other
hand if I could get another 100k miles out of
the car I'd gladly spend the
money.
Chip
92 RT tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 12:39:36
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: life
expectancy of a Stealth tt
I have lost two motors past 100,000
miles. 119,000 for my 91 non-turbo and
105,000 for my TT. In all
fairness, both engines had a rough life before I
got ahold of them. Both were
due to spun rod bearings. I've heard of
several other people losing
bottom ends at similar mileage due to oil pump
and/or bearing failures.
My advice would be to give it a serious overhaul
sometime between 100,000 and
120,000 miles. New bearings (a bargain at $65
for upgraded Clevite
bearings) a new oil pump and possibly a turbo rebuild
just as preventative
maintenance. The bottom end work should probably be
scheduled with the
120k service to save money on the oil pump replacement.
It might seem pricey
to do all this, but it's a LOT cheaper than rebuilding
the whole motor.
I believe these engines could last a long time with the
right
treatment. Even my abused broken motors still had the original
honing
marks visible in the bores and were relatively clean inside.
Good luck.
Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chip Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:32 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt
Hey Folks, as my 29 Stealth
RT tt odometer slowly creeps higher, I'm
beginning to wonder how many miles I
can expect to get out of this car, and
at what cost. I have juts over
90k miles and put almost 30k highway miles
per year on the car.
the car is
stock and all the service is done at the dealer. I use Mobile 1
oil and
filter every 3-4000 miles. The car runs great. the tranny
was
replaced under warranty at about 40k and is problem free. The
interior and
body are quite clean. People still ask me if it's a "new'
car.
What do you think? 90k miles isn't a lot for me. My 90VW
has 190k. My
buddy's 85 IROC Camero has almost 290k. My concern
is that the Stealth is a
complicated car that is expensive to fix. I
want the car to be reliable.
But if I need/should replace the turbos at my
120k service along with the
usual $1200 bill that's a lot of $$$ to sink into
the beast. On the other
hand if I could get another 100k miles out of
the car I'd gladly spend the
money.
Chip
92 RT
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:40:26
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?
I'm trying to get a
little edumakated about them spring-thingies before I
give ground control a
call...
BTW, I don't intend to take my NA 3000GT to the drag strip - I'd
be going
road-coursing at SIR or PIR, and maybe some autoX.
Is there a
magic number/formula/rule of thumb that one can use to determine
what springs
to use in a particular car? Do you figure how much weight you
expect to
transfer to each corner and then get a spring that will not
compress more
than X inches?
Car weighs about 3700lbs (3400 curb wt. + 300lbs of me
and stereo)
Weight is about 59/41 front/rear
Stock spring rates are
162 lb/in front and 190 lb/in rear
Estimated stock corner
weight(lb):
Front Driver: 1000 Front Passenger: 1000
Rear
Driver: 700 Rear Passenger: 700
Estimated current(w/me
+ stereo) corner weight(lb):
Front Driver: 1100 Front Passenger:
1000
Rear Driver: 850 Rear Passenger:
750
Any idea how much weight I should realistically expect to
transfer in a hard
corner? if I were on 2 wheels, I suppose I could
transfer an additional
1100lbs to the front passenger corner, but I don't
plan on getting that
crazy :-) If I were to take a hard left turn, I
know that the weight of the
car is going to shift forward and rightward, but
how much? I also know that
I've got about 4" of ground clearance up
front (assuming I don't lower it),
so do I just say, "I expect a total of 900
extra lbs to be transferred to
the front corner during a hard turn, and I
don't want the car to drop more
than 2", so I need 450 lb/in
springs?"
BTW, I plan to get the GAB Sports adjustable shocks so I can
have a street
setting that won't chip my teeth on imperfect roads. IOW,
I plan to get
somewhat stiffer springs, keep the shocks on the hard side on
the track, and
soften the shocks up for the road so it's not so rough of a
ride. Is that a
realistic expectation?
Thanks!
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 76,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
74,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:19:16
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring
rates?
Erik,
Welcome to the small group of open
trackers on the list. I am just
starting to set up the car and will
have to wait another year for the $1,500
Tein install on my car (the only
catalog part that fits these suckers).
Merritt has some good
stuff but is on his way to Germany so I'll step in
for him. He runs a
very stiff spring rate (something like 650/450
front/rear) and he says this
can jar loose fillings if you are not careful.
This is for the track and not
recommended for street driving where you
encounter potholes. At one
time he had his car lowered enough to where he
could push around a
turned-over Coke can in the parking lot. Again ... only
for track
use.
Others have similar spring rates (550-750 front/350-550
rear) but it
depends on what you want. A stiffer spring in the rear, I
seem to recall,
will cause the back to swing around better and make the car
more neutral
instead of understeering. Be careful as other things (like
tire pressure,
tire width, tire compound, sway bars, strut tower braces,
etc.) can also
help/hurt this.
I don't know that there is a
calculation for the amount of weight in a
corner and the springs since there
are also struts/shocks to take into
account. With my G-Tech Pro I have
taken turns up to about 0.95 G
(instantaneous). If we use your numbers
for front driver corner then that
corner just saw a weight of 2,145 # (1,100
+ (0.95*1100)). It will take
1,100 pounds just sitting still but an
additional 0.95 G of force is then
applied (of course the opposite corner has
negative G's which might add a
further weight transfer to this
corner).
I have pictures of my car at AutoX and with stock
suspension I am about
3" from hitting the ground on a hard turn. I can
send these to you if you
are interested. If you have only 4" of
clearance (5.7" is stock for the
VR-4) then you need to get a stiff enough
spring to make sure you are not
scraping. I don't have any suspension
upgrade so I have to wait for the
open track folks and AutoX folks. Oh,
and what you want is a coilover so
you can change the ride height and
suspension stiffness (and rebound on some
models).
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
Stock suspension
Autopower Race Rollbar
Sparco Evo Competition
race seat
Simpson 5-point Camlock safety harness
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:40 PM
I'm trying to get a little edumakated
about them spring-thingies before I
give ground control a call...
Any
idea how much weight I should realistically expect to transfer in a
hard
corner? if I were on 2 wheels, I suppose I could transfer an
additional
1100lbs to the front passenger corner, but I don't plan on getting
that
crazy :-) If I were to take a hard left turn, I know that the
weight of the
car is going to shift forward and rightward, but how
much? I also know that
I've got about 4" of ground clearance up front
(assuming I don't lower it),
so do I just say, "I expect a total of 900 extra
lbs to be transferred to
the front corner during a hard turn, and I don't
want the car to drop more
than 2", so I need 450 lb/in springs?"
BTW,
I plan to get the GAB Sports adjustable shocks so I can have a street
setting
that won't chip my teeth on imperfect roads. IOW, I plan to
get
somewhat stiffer springs, keep the shocks on the hard side on the track,
and
soften the shocks up for the road so it's not so rough of a ride.
Is that a
realistic expectation?
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 76,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
74,000mi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 10:38:05
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?
Thanks for the reply,
Darren. I'll have to ask Rich about some of his stuff
when he gets
back.
>[Merritt] runs a very stiff spring rate (something like
650/450)
Yeah, I remember something like that - I think I'll go with
something a
little gentler than that :-)
> Others
have similar spring rates (550-750 front/350-550
> rear) but it depends
on what you want. A stiffer spring in the
> rear, I seem to
recall, will cause the back to swing around
> better and make the car
more neutral instead of understeering.
Yeah, that makes
sense. Also, for us FWD people, I think the stock rears
are stiffer to
prevent excessive weight transfer to the rear under
acceleration.
(FWD f/r=162/190 and AWD f/r=212/157)
> Be careful as other things
(like tire pressure,
Yeah, I'll chalk or shoe polish them sometime at the
track or a big parking
lot.
> tire width,
Stock is 225/55 on
16x8 rims, and I'm planning to get a set of 17x8.5 rims
and put 245/45s on
there. Think I should look at 255 or 275?
> tire
compound
I gotta say, I love my Firehawk SZ50s, and they've improved them
(SV50EP),
so I think that's what I'm gonna go with.
> sway
bars
probably won't mess with that now, unless there's a really
compelling
reason...
> strut tower braces
think that'd help
much? I could slap one on if it really needs the bracing.
> If
you have only 4" of clearance (5.7" is stock for the VR-4)
Maybe it's 6"
and I'm smokin something :-) I measured the front jacking
point to the
ground at one point when I was changing my oil.
> Oh, and what you
want is a coilover so you can change
> the ride height and suspension
stiffness (and rebound
> on some models).
The Ground Control + GABs
would give me that right? BTW, that setup will
run me about
$1200.... is the Tein much better (more than $300 better)?
Thanks
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 14:33:22
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?
Erik,
>
Yeah, that makes sense. Also, for us FWD people, I think the stock
rears
> are stiffer to prevent excessive weight transfer to the rear
under
> acceleration.
> (FWD f/r=162/190 and AWD
f/r=212/157)
Actually I think mine is 350f/150r or something. I
have it somewhere. Good
enough for me without the ECS (those guys have
yet a different number).
> Stock is 225/55 on 16x8 rims, and I'm
planning to get a set of 17x8.5 rims
> and put 245/45s on there.
Think I should look at 255 or 275?
Wider is better until you hit water
and hydroplane. Try with what you have
now and then look at upgrading
later. I have 17x8.5 racing rims (1999 SL
wheels I think) and run
Yokohama Advan 032-R 255s on them for racing. Works
nicely. I
don't want to recommend people waste money if they are happy with
something
already.
> I gotta say, I love my Firehawk SZ50s, and they've improved
them (SV50EP),
> so I think that's what I'm gonna go
with.
Again. Everyone has different likes, treadwear,
etc.
> Maybe it's 6" and I'm smokin something :-) I measured the
front jacking
> point to the ground at one point when I was changing my
oil.
Regardless - the heavy car in a hard corner will tend to dip.
Give someone
a roll of 800 speed film and have them take pictures or a video
of you
taking a hard corner in your car. Pictures speak
volumes.
> The Ground Control + GABs would give me that right?
BTW, that setup will
> run me about $1200.... is the Tein much
better (more than $300 better)?
For me there is no alternative.
$1,500 was from the Tein webpage (converted
from Yen). GT-Pro quoted it
at $2,000 (including labor and shipping I
imagine). No other catalog
set will fit the 1995 VR-4 with automatic
sunroof (due to a difference in the
rear spring perch or something). Trust
me. Nothing in any catalog
fits and several of us have tried to find them.
Those are 14-way adjustable
and would be overkill for your car. GC for
$600-$1,200 is the best
advisable solution I believe (4/8-way adjustable).
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:46:54
-0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <
Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?
Erik,
Remember
that you have a FWD car and your spring rates will be completely
different
than AWD. Both cars have a tendancy to push so having higher rear
spring
rates will help. I'd suggest calling Jay (owner) at ground control
and just
asking for a suggestion for a baseline. Tell him what you wanna do
with your
car and how "race stiff" you won't mind.
Remeber, if you do plan on track
driving your car, one of the best
investments to make is going to a competent
race shop. Have your car "corner
weight" adjusted and aligned. Corner
weighting is the process of adjusting
each coilover's ride height to properly
balance the car. They put your car
on scales (a scale under each wheel) and
adjust ride height for best
balance. They might also suggest moving heavy
items like your battery and
such.
Run your car at the track and see
how it feels. If you are still getting
understeer, try an addco rear sway
bar. Or playing with your corner weights.
But if you do a corner weight and
race align, at least you will have a good
baseline. Then you can play with
spring rates if you get serious!
Hoser
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:55:22
-0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <
Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?
Oh yeah, to answer
your original question,
I doubt there is a formula for determing optimal
spring rates. Unless
someone has done testing with various spring rate
combo's for your
particular car, you would have to do it. I would just order
what Jay
recomends for a track setup and play from there.
solving
oversteer:
- stiffer front springs
-
stiffer front sway bar
- bias weight by cornerweighting or
relocating components
- softer rear tire pressure (or
higher fronts... depends on WHERE your
tire pressure are to begin
with)
solving understeer:
- stiffer rear
springs
- stiffer rear sway bar
-
bias weight by cornerweighting or relocating components)
-
softer front tire pressure (or lower rears... depends on WHERE your
tire
pressure are to begin with)
Hoser
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 15:44:24
-0500
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: life
expectancy of a Stealth tt
I have a 1991 3000GT VR4 with 182,000 miles on
it. I bought it with
179,000. I have had some work done to the
car.
Timing belt
Clutch
New Tie rod ends
New left front 1/2
shaft
New front drive shaft
New Slave cylinder
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chip Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:32 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt
Hey Folks, as my 29 Stealth RT tt
odometer slowly creeps higher, I'm
beginning to wonder how many miles I can
expect to get out of this car, and
at what cost. I have juts over 90k
miles and put almost 30k highway miles
per year on the car.
the car is
stock and all the service is done at the dealer. I use Mobile 1
oil and
filter every 3-4000 miles. The car runs great. the tranny
was
replaced under warranty at about 40k and is problem free. The
interior and
body are quite clean. People still ask me if it's a "new'
car.
What do you think? 90k miles isn't a lot for me. My 90VW
has 190k. My
buddy's 85 IROC Camero has almost 290k. My concern
is that the Stealth is a
complicated car that is expensive to fix. I
want the car to be reliable.
But if I need/should replace the turbos at my
120k service along with the
usual $1200 bill that's a lot of $$$ to sink into
the beast. On the other
hand if I could get another 100k miles out of
the car I'd gladly spend the
money.
Chip
92 RT
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:02:10
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: air escape
Hola Raul,
I had a loud boost related hiss for
awhile too. It was caused by the hose
connection to my aftermarket
boost gauge when I had it connected directly to
the intake plenum. When
I moved the connection to the fuel pressure
regulator hose, the noise
disappeared.
Good luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "raul cinelli" <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 12:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: air
escape
> First, I'm sorry about my english, I speak spanish
but
> I'll try to do my best...
> Since I bought my 95 GT VR4, it
makes a noise when the
> turbos start working. The noise seems to come
from
> under the dash, on the left side of the car, and it is
>
bigger when you push the throtle, and it dissapears as
> soon as you
release the throtle.
> I feel the car is slower than my former 3000 VR4,
wich
> was a 93 model, even when my actual car has 20 more
>
horses.
> The noise sounds like an Air leak, and I even can feel
>
the air in my left leg sometimes when accelerating the
> car.
> I
tried changing the clutch pump (the one behind the
> clutch pedal),
checking the hoses, and nothing, it is
> always the same.
> Another
thing I notice is a smell like gas, not too
> strong, but it is like
that.
> I need some help here please.
> Thanks a
lot,
>
> Raul Cinelli from Argentina
> 95 3000 GT VR4
>
white pearl
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 20:25:37
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: More Knock
I hate to beat this dog, but you seldom see the most
relevant form of knock
referred to in any of our tech. articles.
Pre-ignition and detonation are
problems with severly out of tune
engines. For the rest of us, knock almost
always occurs near the end of
normal combustion in the end gas (the last bit
of unburned air/fuel).
It's easy to imagine that as combustion progresses,
the remaining unburned
air/fuel is exposed to higher heat and pressure until
the final remaining
amount explodes in a most innelegant way. Fortunately,
knock has a
delay from onset to explosion. If the air/fuel can be consumed
through
normal combustion within this delay period, knock is avoided.
(Unfortunately,
as the conditions that induce knock get worse, this delay
period is
shortened). This is one reason why fast burn/high turbulance
combustion
chambers are popular.
Sorry to
technobabble,
DaveT/92TT
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#430
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