team3s            Saturday, March 10 2001            Volume 01 : Number 430




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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 15:53:40 -0500
From: Steve Petry <sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: air escape

I have this exact problem with my 1991 VR4, When I accelerate hard I hear
that whining sound, and I also get a chemical type smell from the car.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of raul cinelli
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:05 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: air escape

First, I'm sorry about my english, I speak spanish but
I'll try to do my best...
Since I bought my 95 GT VR4, it makes a noise when the
turbos start working. The noise seems to come from
under the dash, on the left side of the car, and it is
bigger when you push the throtle, and it dissapears as
soon as you release the throtle.
I feel the car is slower than my former 3000 VR4, wich
was a 93 model, even when my actual car has 20 more
horses.
The noise sounds like an Air leak, and I even can feel
the air in my left leg sometimes when accelerating the
car.
I tried changing the clutch pump (the one behind the
clutch pedal), checking the hoses, and nothing, it is
always the same.
Another thing I notice is a smell like gas, not too
strong, but it is like that.
I need some help here please.
Thanks a lot,

Raul Cinelli from Argentina
95 3000 GT VR4
white pearl

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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:53:27 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Basics

The best source is definitely Jeffs pages under www.stealth316.com as he
has all the links to the great articles.

Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT

At 15:30 07.03.2001 -0800, Bob Forrest wrote:
>Use the Team3S Search Page for *dozens* of discussions about "knock".
>
>Use the Team3S FAQ page to read Roger's "Treatise on Knock".  (Under
>'Engines')
>
>Use Roger's home page for even more:  www.rtec.ch
>
>Best, (from a NON-guru),
>
>Forrest
>www.Team3S.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Stegall III" <john.stegall@e247.com>
> > All right list, I need some help, especially from you gurus, Roger,
>Bob, Matt (and anyone else I forgot -- those three just answer my
>questions most often).  My little brother recently purchased a 97
>Eclipse GS-T Spyder and had a few questions about turbo cars.  I found
>myself shocked when I realized one question I could answer, but not give
>him any technical background on, and the other I really had no clue.
> >
> > The first question he asked me was what is knock.  I was able to give
>him a basic definition of what knock is and a "laymans terms" of what
>causes it, but I really don't know any of the technical info on it.  Can
>any of you gurus give me the tech info behind knock - what it is and its
>results on the engine?
> >
> > The second question he asked was about better gas mileage on turbo
>cars.  To give a basic example (one he gave me), is it better gas
>mileage to drive in fourth gear at 4000 RPM with the turbo(s)
>boosting -10 psi, or is it better in fifth gear at 2500 RPM with the
>turbo(s) boosting 0 psi?
>
>
>
>
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:26:18 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Timing mark differences between 2 and 4 bolt blocks

As I've been working on assembling my new 4-bolt motor, I've been noticing
some significant parts differences that no one has mentioned in previous
discussions about the 2-bolt to 4-bolt upgrade.  Most important was the one
I noticed last night.  The timing mark on the 2g oil pump does not line up
with the timing mark on the 1g lower timing belt gear.  Has anyone dealt
with this before?  I hate to think that I'll have to buy another timing gear
since I wanted to have the motor in the car this weekend. At the same time,
does anyone have a 4-bolt engine they're parting out?  I need a few odds and
ends. Any suggestions are appreciated.  Thanks.

Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 08:54:46 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Basics

> You are quite close with your theory, but off on one point. 

> You said that max vacuum would be the ideal fuel efficiency
> point.  I agree that that the least amount of air consumes
> the least amount of fuel, however max vacuum is not true.
> Actually, vacuum is a force that the engine creates, and in
> doing so does work.  This work is a very large drag force on
> the engine, and sacrafices efficiency.  The best efficiency
> is actually when the engine is operating at minimum vacuum,
> or closest to WOT.  Now DON'T take this to mean that WOT is
> the best way to get efficiency (legal disclaimer), but that is the
> effect.

So what you are saying is that I should go WOT all the time?  Cool!  Just
kidding...

Points well taken...  I suppose part of it depends on the types of roads you
drive on as well.  The ones around here are lots of long slight grades, and
curves, etc.  On a turbo car it is very easy to have it sneak into boosting
where your fuel economy starts going WAY down.  Assuming that the roads are
pretty flat and straight (ie: a long slab of freeway like an interstate)
then I totally agree with you that staying around "0" vacuum is preferable.

Once you go into boost, the ECU starts dumping in large quantities of fuel,
so you want to avoid that if possible (assuming you are actually trying to
save fuel economy).  Fluctuations in throttle position which aren't done
gradually also increase fuel consumption - so you want to pick a gear where
it is easy to hold speed as well.

Overall conclusion seems to be that you want to pick the gear with the
lowest RPM that is closest to "0" vacuum and doesn't require large changes
in throttle position to hold your desired speed.  Have I got it right?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:59:02 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Basics

For me to add my measly 2 hp ...

I noticed that while cruising in 6th gear down from Bristol, TN toward the
Blue Ridge Gathering last year that I got tremendous gas mileage.  I think
it was close to 24 mpg (450 miles at 19 gallons of gas).  The rpms and speed
stayed right where the cruise control was but the turbos kept spooling and
going to vacuum.

I soon realized that a gradual slope in 6th had the turbos spooling and this
was wasting gas.  If I shift down to 5th then there is a vacuum, slightly
higher rpms (but not much) and then back to 6th after the top.

This is the better way to maximize efficiency so yes - depending on the road
topography this can also play into the equation.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 ... with my rollbar test-installed last night ... sweet!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:55 AM

So what you are saying is that I should go WOT all the time?  Cool!  Just
kidding...

Points well taken...  I suppose part of it depends on the types of roads you
drive on as well.  The ones around here are lots of long slight grades, and
curves, etc.  On a turbo car it is very easy to have it sneak into boosting
where your fuel economy starts going WAY down.  Assuming that the roads are
pretty flat and straight (ie: a long slab of freeway like an interstate)
then I totally agree with you that staying around "0" vacuum is preferable.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:31:36 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt

Hey Folks, as my 29 Stealth RT tt odometer slowly creeps higher, I'm
beginning to wonder how many miles I can expect to get out of this car, and
at what cost.  I have juts over 90k miles and put almost 30k highway miles
per year on the car.
the car is stock and all the service is done at the dealer. I use Mobile 1
oil and filter every 3-4000 miles.  The car runs great.  the tranny was
replaced under warranty at about 40k and is problem free.  The interior and
body are quite clean.  People still ask me if it's a "new' car.

What do you think?  90k miles isn't a lot for me.  My 90VW has 190k.  My
buddy's 85 IROC Camero has almost 290k.  My concern is that the Stealth is a
complicated car that is expensive to fix.  I want the car to be reliable.
But if I need/should replace the turbos at my 120k service along with the
usual $1200 bill that's a lot of $$$ to sink into the beast.  On the other
hand if I could get another 100k miles out of the car I'd gladly spend the
money.

Chip
92 RT tt


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 12:39:36 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt

I have lost two motors past 100,000 miles.  119,000 for my 91 non-turbo and
105,000 for my TT.  In all fairness, both engines had a rough life before I
got ahold of them. Both were due to spun rod bearings.  I've heard of
several other people losing bottom ends at similar mileage due to oil pump
and/or bearing failures.  My advice would be to give it a serious overhaul
sometime between 100,000 and 120,000 miles.  New bearings (a bargain at $65
for upgraded Clevite bearings) a new oil pump and possibly a turbo rebuild
just as preventative maintenance.  The bottom end work should probably be
scheduled with the 120k service to save money on the oil pump replacement.
It might seem pricey to do all this, but it's a LOT cheaper than rebuilding
the whole motor.  I believe these engines could last a long time with the
right treatment.  Even my abused broken motors still had the original honing
marks visible in the bores and were relatively clean inside.  Good luck.

Jeff V.
jeffv@1nce.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Chip Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:32 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt


Hey Folks, as my 29 Stealth RT tt odometer slowly creeps higher, I'm
beginning to wonder how many miles I can expect to get out of this car, and
at what cost.  I have juts over 90k miles and put almost 30k highway miles
per year on the car.
the car is stock and all the service is done at the dealer. I use Mobile 1
oil and filter every 3-4000 miles.  The car runs great.  the tranny was
replaced under warranty at about 40k and is problem free.  The interior and
body are quite clean.  People still ask me if it's a "new' car.

What do you think?  90k miles isn't a lot for me.  My 90VW has 190k.  My
buddy's 85 IROC Camero has almost 290k.  My concern is that the Stealth is a
complicated car that is expensive to fix.  I want the car to be reliable.
But if I need/should replace the turbos at my 120k service along with the
usual $1200 bill that's a lot of $$$ to sink into the beast.  On the other
hand if I could get another 100k miles out of the car I'd gladly spend the
money.

Chip
92 RT tt


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:40:26 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?

I'm trying to get a little edumakated about them spring-thingies before I
give ground control a call...

BTW, I don't intend to take my NA 3000GT to the drag strip - I'd be going
road-coursing at SIR or PIR, and maybe some autoX.

Is there a magic number/formula/rule of thumb that one can use to determine
what springs to use in a particular car?  Do you figure how much weight you
expect to transfer to each corner and then get a spring that will not
compress more than X inches?


Car weighs about 3700lbs (3400 curb wt. + 300lbs of me and stereo)
Weight is about 59/41  front/rear
Stock spring rates are 162 lb/in front and 190 lb/in rear


Estimated stock corner weight(lb):
Front Driver: 1000 Front Passenger: 1000
Rear  Driver:  700 Rear  Passenger:  700

Estimated current(w/me + stereo) corner weight(lb):
Front Driver: 1100 Front Passenger: 1000
Rear  Driver:  850 Rear  Passenger:  750


Any idea how much weight I should realistically expect to transfer in a hard
corner?  if I were on 2 wheels, I suppose I could transfer an additional
1100lbs to the front passenger corner, but I don't plan on getting that
crazy :-)  If I were to take a hard left turn, I know that the weight of the
car is going to shift forward and rightward, but how much?  I also know that
I've got about 4" of ground clearance up front (assuming I don't lower it),
so do I just say, "I expect a total of 900 extra lbs to be transferred to
the front corner during a hard turn, and I don't want the car to drop more
than 2", so I need 450 lb/in springs?"

BTW, I plan to get the GAB Sports adjustable shocks so I can have a street
setting that won't chip my teeth on imperfect roads.  IOW, I plan to get
somewhat stiffer springs, keep the shocks on the hard side on the track, and
soften the shocks up for the road so it's not so rough of a ride.  Is that a
realistic expectation?

Thanks!
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          76,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               74,000mi
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:19:16 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?

Erik,

   Welcome to the small group of open trackers on the list.  I am just
starting to set up the car and will have to wait another year for the $1,500
Tein install on my car (the only catalog part that fits these suckers).
   Merritt has some good stuff but is on his way to Germany so I'll step in
for him.  He runs a very stiff spring rate (something like 650/450
front/rear) and he says this can jar loose fillings if you are not careful.
This is for the track and not recommended for street driving where you
encounter potholes.  At one time he had his car lowered enough to where he
could push around a turned-over Coke can in the parking lot.  Again ... only
for track use.
   Others have similar spring rates (550-750 front/350-550 rear) but it
depends on what you want.  A stiffer spring in the rear, I seem to recall,
will cause the back to swing around better and make the car more neutral
instead of understeering.  Be careful as other things (like tire pressure,
tire width, tire compound, sway bars, strut tower braces, etc.) can also
help/hurt this.
   I don't know that there is a calculation for the amount of weight in a
corner and the springs since there are also struts/shocks to take into
account.  With my G-Tech Pro I have taken turns up to about 0.95 G
(instantaneous).  If we use your numbers for front driver corner then that
corner just saw a weight of 2,145 # (1,100 + (0.95*1100)).  It will take
1,100 pounds just sitting still but an additional 0.95 G of force is then
applied (of course the opposite corner has negative G's which might add a
further weight transfer to this corner).
   I have pictures of my car at AutoX and with stock suspension I am about
3" from hitting the ground on a hard turn.  I can send these to you if you
are interested.  If you have only 4" of clearance (5.7" is stock for the
VR-4) then you need to get a stiff enough spring to make sure you are not
scraping.  I don't have any suspension upgrade so I have to wait for the
open track folks and AutoX folks.  Oh, and what you want is a coilover so
you can change the ride height and suspension stiffness (and rebound on some
models).

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Stock suspension
Autopower Race Rollbar
Sparco Evo Competition race seat
Simpson 5-point Camlock safety harness

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:40 PM

I'm trying to get a little edumakated about them spring-thingies before I
give ground control a call...

Any idea how much weight I should realistically expect to transfer in a hard
corner?  if I were on 2 wheels, I suppose I could transfer an additional
1100lbs to the front passenger corner, but I don't plan on getting that
crazy :-)  If I were to take a hard left turn, I know that the weight of the
car is going to shift forward and rightward, but how much?  I also know that
I've got about 4" of ground clearance up front (assuming I don't lower it),
so do I just say, "I expect a total of 900 extra lbs to be transferred to
the front corner during a hard turn, and I don't want the car to drop more
than 2", so I need 450 lb/in springs?"

BTW, I plan to get the GAB Sports adjustable shocks so I can have a street
setting that won't chip my teeth on imperfect roads.  IOW, I plan to get
somewhat stiffer springs, keep the shocks on the hard side on the track, and
soften the shocks up for the road so it's not so rough of a ride.  Is that a
realistic expectation?

Thanks!
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          76,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               74,000mi

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 10:38:05 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?

Thanks for the reply, Darren.  I'll have to ask Rich about some of his stuff
when he gets back.

>[Merritt] runs a very stiff spring rate (something like 650/450)

Yeah, I remember something like that - I think I'll go with something a
little gentler than that :-)

>    Others have similar spring rates (550-750 front/350-550
> rear) but it depends on what you want.  A stiffer spring in the
> rear, I  seem to recall, will cause the back to swing around
> better and make the car more neutral instead of understeering. 

Yeah, that makes sense.  Also, for us FWD people, I think the stock rears
are stiffer to prevent excessive weight transfer to the rear under
acceleration. 
(FWD f/r=162/190 and AWD f/r=212/157)

> Be careful as other things (like tire pressure,

Yeah, I'll chalk or shoe polish them sometime at the track or a big parking
lot.

> tire width,

Stock is 225/55 on 16x8 rims, and I'm planning to get a set of 17x8.5 rims
and put 245/45s on there.  Think I should look at 255 or 275?

> tire compound

I gotta say, I love my Firehawk SZ50s, and they've improved them (SV50EP),
so I think that's what I'm gonna go with.

> sway bars

probably won't mess with that now, unless there's a really compelling
reason...

> strut tower braces

think that'd help much?  I could slap one on if it really needs the bracing.

> If you have only 4" of clearance (5.7" is stock for the VR-4)

Maybe it's 6" and I'm smokin something :-)  I measured the front jacking
point to the ground at one point when I was changing my oil.

> Oh, and what you want is a coilover so you can change
> the ride height and suspension stiffness (and rebound
> on some models).

The Ground Control + GABs would give me that right?  BTW, that setup will
run me about $1200....  is the Tein much better (more than $300 better)?

Thanks
- --Erik



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 14:33:22 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?

Erik,

> Yeah, that makes sense.  Also, for us FWD people, I think the stock rears
> are stiffer to prevent excessive weight transfer to the rear under
> acceleration. 
> (FWD f/r=162/190 and AWD f/r=212/157)

Actually I think mine is 350f/150r or something.  I have it somewhere.  Good
enough for me without the ECS (those guys have yet a different number).

> Stock is 225/55 on 16x8 rims, and I'm planning to get a set of 17x8.5 rims
> and put 245/45s on there.  Think I should look at 255 or 275?

Wider is better until you hit water and hydroplane.  Try with what you have
now and then look at upgrading later.  I have 17x8.5 racing rims (1999 SL
wheels I think) and run Yokohama Advan 032-R 255s on them for racing.  Works
nicely.  I don't want to recommend people waste money if they are happy with
something already.

> I gotta say, I love my Firehawk SZ50s, and they've improved them (SV50EP),
> so I think that's what I'm gonna go with.

Again.  Everyone has different likes, treadwear, etc.

> Maybe it's 6" and I'm smokin something :-)  I measured the front jacking
> point to the ground at one point when I was changing my oil.

Regardless - the heavy car in a hard corner will tend to dip.  Give someone
a roll of 800 speed film and have them take pictures or a video of you
taking a hard corner in your car.  Pictures speak volumes.

> The Ground Control + GABs would give me that right?  BTW, that setup will
> run me about $1200....  is the Tein much better (more than $300 better)?

For me there is no alternative.  $1,500 was from the Tein webpage (converted
from Yen).  GT-Pro quoted it at $2,000 (including labor and shipping I
imagine).  No other catalog set will fit the 1995 VR-4 with automatic
sunroof (due to a difference in the rear spring perch or something).  Trust
me.  Nothing in any catalog fits and several of us have tried to find them.
Those are 14-way adjustable and would be overkill for your car.  GC for
$600-$1,200 is the best advisable solution I believe (4/8-way adjustable).

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:46:54 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?

Erik,
Remember that you have a FWD car and your spring rates will be completely
different than AWD. Both cars have a tendancy to push so having higher rear
spring rates will help. I'd suggest calling Jay (owner) at ground control
and just asking for a suggestion for a baseline. Tell him what you wanna do
with your car and how "race stiff" you won't mind.

Remeber, if you do plan on track driving your car, one of the best
investments to make is going to a competent race shop. Have your car "corner
weight" adjusted and aligned. Corner weighting is the process of adjusting
each coilover's ride height to properly balance the car. They put your car
on scales (a scale under each wheel) and adjust ride height for best
balance. They might also suggest moving heavy items like your battery and
such.

Run your car at the track and see how it feels. If you are still getting
understeer, try an addco rear sway bar. Or playing with your corner weights.
But if you do a corner weight and race align, at least you will have a good
baseline. Then you can play with spring rates if you get serious!

Hoser




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:55:22 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How do you determine optimal spring rates?

Oh yeah, to answer your original question,

I doubt there is a formula for determing optimal spring rates. Unless
someone has done testing with various spring rate combo's for your
particular car, you would have to do it. I would just order what Jay
recomends for a track setup and play from there.

solving oversteer:
    - stiffer front springs
    - stiffer front sway bar
    - bias weight by cornerweighting or relocating components
    - softer rear tire pressure (or higher fronts... depends on WHERE your
tire pressure are to begin with)

solving understeer:
    - stiffer rear springs
    - stiffer rear sway bar
    - bias weight by cornerweighting or relocating components)
    - softer front tire pressure (or lower rears... depends on WHERE your
tire pressure are to begin with)


Hoser



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 15:44:24 -0500
From: Steve Petry <sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt

I have a 1991 3000GT VR4 with 182,000 miles on it.  I bought it with
179,000.  I have had some work done to the car.

Timing belt
Clutch
New Tie rod ends
New left front 1/2 shaft
New front drive shaft
New Slave cylinder


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Chip Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:32 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: life expectancy of a Stealth tt

Hey Folks, as my 29 Stealth RT tt odometer slowly creeps higher, I'm
beginning to wonder how many miles I can expect to get out of this car, and
at what cost.  I have juts over 90k miles and put almost 30k highway miles
per year on the car.
the car is stock and all the service is done at the dealer. I use Mobile 1
oil and filter every 3-4000 miles.  The car runs great.  the tranny was
replaced under warranty at about 40k and is problem free.  The interior and
body are quite clean.  People still ask me if it's a "new' car.

What do you think?  90k miles isn't a lot for me.  My 90VW has 190k.  My
buddy's 85 IROC Camero has almost 290k.  My concern is that the Stealth is a
complicated car that is expensive to fix.  I want the car to be reliable.
But if I need/should replace the turbos at my 120k service along with the
usual $1200 bill that's a lot of $$$ to sink into the beast.  On the other
hand if I could get another 100k miles out of the car I'd gladly spend the
money.

Chip
92 RT tt


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:02:10 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: air escape

Hola Raul,

I had a loud boost related hiss for awhile too.  It was caused by the hose
connection to my aftermarket boost gauge when I had it connected directly to
the intake plenum.  When I moved the connection to the fuel pressure
regulator hose, the noise disappeared.

Good luck,
Ken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "raul cinelli" <raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 12:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: air escape


> First, I'm sorry about my english, I speak spanish but
> I'll try to do my best...
> Since I bought my 95 GT VR4, it makes a noise when the
> turbos start working. The noise seems to come from
> under the dash, on the left side of the car, and it is
> bigger when you push the throtle, and it dissapears as
> soon as you release the throtle.
> I feel the car is slower than my former 3000 VR4, wich
> was a 93 model, even when my actual car has 20 more
> horses.
> The noise sounds like an Air leak, and I even can feel
> the air in my left leg sometimes when accelerating the
> car.
> I tried changing the clutch pump (the one behind the
> clutch pedal), checking the hoses, and nothing, it is
> always the same.
> Another thing I notice is a smell like gas, not too
> strong, but it is like that.
> I need some help here please.
> Thanks a lot,
>
> Raul Cinelli from Argentina
> 95 3000 GT VR4
> white pearl
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 20:25:37 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: More Knock

I hate to beat this dog, but you seldom see the most relevant form of knock
referred to in any of our tech. articles.  Pre-ignition and detonation are
problems with severly out of tune engines.  For the rest of us, knock almost
always occurs near the end of normal combustion in the end gas (the last bit
of unburned air/fuel).  It's easy to imagine that as combustion progresses,
the remaining unburned air/fuel is exposed to higher heat and pressure until
the final remaining amount explodes in a most innelegant way.  Fortunately,
knock has a delay from onset to explosion.  If the air/fuel can be consumed
through normal combustion within this delay period, knock is avoided.
(Unfortunately, as the conditions that induce knock get worse, this delay
period is shortened).  This is one reason why fast burn/high turbulance
combustion chambers are popular.

Sorry to technobabble,
DaveT/92TT


Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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