team3s Tuesday, March 6 2001 Volume 01 : Number 428

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:47:44 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: recent quote for 60K VR4 work

This is from one of three local Mitsu dealerships for 60K maintenance on a
3000GT VR4.

60K maintenance including plug replacement $469.00
Something I can't read $78.00
Timing belt replacement $449.00
Tensioner $109.00
Water Pump replacement $167.00
Seals $146.00

Grand Total $1418.00

Amazing! I may yet do-it-myself.

Chuck

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 17:10:50 -0500
From: Michael Reid <mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery

4 gauge MAY be OK, I don't know, but if 100 feet of it has 0.33 ohms
resistance, then 100 feet is way too much.

With 100 amps of current, 0.33 ohms would drop 100 amps * 0.33 ohms
or 33 volts, and you only have 12 volts to start with.

You MIGHT be able to start the car with as little as 6 volts, but ideally,
I think
you'd want no more than a 2 volt drop over the wire (especially with all of
our
electronics and computers), leaving 10 volts or so to start.

So the maximum wire resistance you'd want would be 2 volts / 100 amps =
0.02 ohms .

If the resistance of 4 gauge is 0.33 ohms per 100 feet (is that what it is?),
then you'd want no more than 6 feet or so, 3 feet if you run both a negative
and a positive line.

So 4 gauge might be OK for jumper cables, but I have severe doubts about
using 100 feet of it, or worse 200 feet for both positive and negative.

I think the "moral" might be that to do this right, you'd want to absolutely
minimize cable length, and use the biggest, most expensive cable you can.

And don't forget about the weight of all that cable, nor about the power
that will be dissipated in the cable during starting. A 2 volt drop at
100 amps causes 200 watts of battery power to turn into heat. Not too
bad for quick starts, but watch our for burning wires if you ever have
to crank the engine a bunch.

I = E / R
E = I * R
R = E / I
P = E * I

Where I = current in amps, E = voltage in volts, R = resistance in ohms,
P = Power in watts.

Mike.
94 Black R/T TT.

>Starter current is probably 100+ amps --- 4 gauge is 'probably' OK. I'm
>moving mine in a month or so but I'm going for 2 ga. or maybe a pair of 4 ga.
>wires. It's probably overkill but I'd rather go with overkill than have a
low voltage
>problem, I'll also add a relay to run the fuel pump so I'm guaranteed full
fuel flow
>when I do my mods.
>
> Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:58:42 -0800
From: "noble" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery

While we're on the subject of electricity,

I have an aftermarket stereo in my car, and I'm getting alternator whine
as the RPM's increase. There is no noise whatsoever when the engine is off.

I've been told I need a voltage regulator/filter of some sort.
Any ideas where I can find one, and how much?

Thanks in advance,
Noble

- ----- Original Message -----
From: George Shaw <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To: Team3S Technical Forum <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery

> Voltage Drop is caused by a conductor's electrical resistance (Ohms)
> and may be calculated according to Ohm's Law--
> (1) Voltage Drop (Volts) = Electrical Resistance (Ohms) X Current(Amps)
> Power Loss is calculated by--
> (2) Power Loss (Watts) = Voltage Drop (Volts) X Current(Amps)
> By substituting the Voltage Drop Equivalence from equation (1) into
> equation (2), we find--
> Power Loss (Watts) = Ohms X Amps2
>
> If we have a 12V system with a 100 ft. wire run of 12 gauge wire
> (0.33 Ohms) and a 72 watt load, there will be a 6 amp current (Amps
> = Watts/Volts) and a power loss of 12 watts (0.33 Ohms X [6 Amps]2).
>
>
> --
> EMail: george.shaw@xlsolutions.com
> EMail: george.shaw@btinternet.com
> Office: +44 (0) 28 9092 5000
> Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
> Mobile: +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
> Home: +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
> ICQ#: 1741675
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of cody
> Sent: 05 March 2001 15:58
> To: starnet; Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery
>
> Sorry If this double posts - i accidentally set my deafault e-mail
account -
> and got this bouced the first time...
>
> Just bought a Sealed Battery for my car (Optima Yellow Top). And am
> planning on trunk mounting it. What do I need to do special for it? I
have
> 4 gauge power wire back there already - so I was thinking just run it to
the
> positive on the battery, and in front where all the wires run together put
a
> junction block. Is 4 gauge sufficient. I don't think even the factory
used
> 4 gauge, but my run is alittle longer than the factory. Also - Is there
> any special mounting procedure for a sealed battery? I know that whenever
I
> go to car shows and stuff - even the daily driven cars have sealed
batteries
> just bolted down - no special enclosures for them. Is this OK?
>
> Thanks
> -Cody
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:24:20 -0800
From: Michael Korsinczky <m.korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au>
Subject: Team3S: tour/sport light flashing and power conversion

- --------------D29E297F51325263E7F6C00D
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Hey all

I would like to know how to fix my ECS. The car starts off in tour mode
and after about 2 mins driving, the tour/sport lights start flashing
until the car is turned off.

Also, my car made 173kW at the wheels with over 500 Nm-1 of torque.
Does anyone know what this equates to at the flywheel.

Michael

1992 GTO VR4

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<HTML>
Hey all

I would like to know how to fix my ECS.  The car starts off in
tour mode and after about 2 mins driving, the tour/sport lights start flashing
until the car is turned off.

Also, my car made 173kW at the wheels with over 500 Nm-1
of torque.  Does anyone know what this equates to at the flywheel.
  

Michael

1992 GTO VR4</HTML>

- --------------D29E297F51325263E7F6C00D--

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 16:28:49 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: ECS tour/sport light flashing

 Try cleaning the connector on top of the struts before you replace
any of them.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Korsinczky [mailto:m.korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au]
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:24 PM
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: tour/sport light flashing and power conversion

Hey all

I would like to know how to fix my ECS. The car starts off in tour mode and
after about 2 mins driving, the tour/sport lights start flashing until the
car is turned off.

Also, my car made 173kW at the wheels with over 500 Nm-1 of torque. Does
anyone know what this equates to at the flywheel.

Michael

1992 GTO VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 16:30:05 -0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery

>4 gauge MAY be OK, I don't know, but if 100 feet of it has 0.33 ohms
>resistance, then 100 feet is way too much.

According to my charts, 12 gauge has .145 ohms/100 ft, and 4 gauge has .025
ohms/100 ft.
4 gauge is approximately .25 inch diameter and weighs .126 lbs/ft

You really shouldn't need more than about 30 feet of 4 gauge which would be
about .008 ohms and less
than a volt drop when cranking 100 Amps. This assumes the ground can be
made locally to the battery
on the frame of the car. The resistance of the car frame should be much
lower than any practical
wire gauge.

Jim Watkins 95-VR4 Spyder

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 19:36:43 EST
From: Shivy13@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Alternator whine

- --part1_75.1116afda.27d58b1b_boundary
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 You can try a filter but that may not really be the problem. If you have
an external amp powering a sub woofer you may need to shorten the ground wire
on the amp. Make sure it is connected to a strong ground to. If that
doesn't work I would make sure you are using a good gauge wire for all of
your connections.

Michael

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<HTML>   You can try a filter but that may not really be the problem.  If you have
 an external amp powering a sub woofer you may need to shorten the ground wire
 on the amp.  Make sure it is connected to a strong ground to.  If that
 doesn't work I would make sure you are using a good gauge wire for all of
 your connections.  
 
 Michael
 
 </HTML>

- --part1_75.1116afda.27d58b1b_boundary--

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 21:56:46 -0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock amp (under dash)...

Hello everyone,

All those NorthEast people, enjoying the snow? =)

I am trying to figure out the purpose and wiring scheme of the stock
amplifier from my '91 Stealth TT. This is the one behind the deck, NOT
under the seat. How does it work, how is it wired? The repair manual
tells me nothing...

All help appreciated!

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)

_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 22:51:54 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock amp (under dash)...

Ken Stanton wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> All those NorthEast people, enjoying the snow? =)
>
> I am trying to figure out the purpose and wiring scheme of the stock
> amplifier from my '91 Stealth TT. This is the one behind the deck, NOT
> under the seat. How does it work, how is it wired? The repair manual
> tells me nothing...
>
> All help appreciated!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)

Ken,

 And others. I went through a "conversion" process where I changed my
stereo in my car to a later Infinity version stereo( I think it's from a
'93 or '94). (It actually worked!!!!)

 At any rate. I came up with some crude drawings that show the signal
path and the pinouts on the back of the stereo. Don't ask me any detailed
questions because it's been over two years since I've even driven my car,
longer since I did the stereo conversion.

 I'll have to scan these pages in and post them as .jpg files. I'll try
to get this done tomorrow first thing.

Hope this helps,
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
 '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
 2K Wrangler TJ Sport
 St. Louis, MO

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:36:11 -0800 (PST)
From: raul cinelli <raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Newbie temperature problems

I need some help please! 2,000 miles ago, the
thermostat of my '95 VR4 was broken. I couldn't get
one here in south america so I decide to take it off
and I continued using my car without any temperature
problem for the last 2,000 miles, but yesterday, the
temperature started to go higher and higher.
I checked the water level in the jar and in the
radiator and they are Ok. I also checked the radiator
fans and they are working right.
The water pump is not leaking.
Can you please tell me what can be causing this
problem.
Thanks a lot.

Raul Cinelli
95 3000 GT VR4
Argentina

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 03:38:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: tour/sport light flashing and power conversion

"Also, my car made 173kW at the wheels with over 500 Nm-1 of torque.
Does anyone know what this equates to at the flywheel."

173kW = 234 HP power
500Nm = 369 ft-lb torque

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-converters.htm

First, assuming those are peak values, those two numbers don't match
well - the wheel torque is way over stock *flywheel* torque yet HP is
typical for stock *wheel* power. But that aside, Roger Gerl's web
site, http://www.rtec.ch/ , has dyno charts with "coast-down"
driveline losses you could try using to estimate flywheel power and
torque.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Korsinczky
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: tour/sport light flashing and power conversion

Hey all
I would like to know how to fix my ECS. The car starts off in tour
mode and after about 2 mins driving, the tour/sport lights start
flashing until the car is turned off.
Also, my car made 173kW at the wheels with over 500 Nm-1 of torque.
Does anyone know what this equates to at the flywheel.

Michael
1992 GTO VR4

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 09:07:50 -0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

*First let me apologize for the basic questions contained here*

What does it feel like when your plugs fail to fire correctly? Could
it make the engine "skip" a little, but only under load? Would it
feel a little like multiple split second hesitations? Could it be
mistaken by someone who has never, *NEVER* had a slipping clutch as
cluth slip?

I ask because I have been reading up on spark plug gap in the
archives and I think that the "mechanics" that rebuilt my heads and
claim to have replaced my plugs either 1) did not gap them properly
or 2) did not replace them at all and there's a greatly incredible
chance that the plugs are fouled. Of course there's always then
chance that I need new wires, too.

After my engine rebuild and new clutch I started to feel what I
thought was clutch slip almost immediately under load. Now, the more
I think about it, I am entertaining the possibility that it could be
bad wires or plugs making the engine stutter under load and I am
mis-reading it as clutch slip. Is this possible, or do I need to
have my clutch looked at? The car idles OK, but I think I may hear a
minute miss (I have very untrained ears). Would a minute miss at
idle lead to choppy hesitation under quick acceleration (say like a
hard push in 3rd from 55 to 85)?

Any help on this would be appreciated! I'm almost 100% sure that
it's the plugs and / or wires, but I want to see what you guys have
to say before I get in to the whole plenum removal, plugs, and wires
ordeal this weekend coming.

Add to the shopping cart: 2 Mitsubishi oil filters, 9 quarts of
Mobil 1 Synthetic, 3 bottles of BG Syncroshift, 6 NGK Plugs, 6
Performance wires (maybe Magnacore), and one plenum gasket. ;)

It's going to be a busy weekend...

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)

'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with basically new engine / Green)

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 06:41:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

Yep..you got it. Just a short QUICK miss. Sometimes once, or a number of
times with random repeats and sequences. Slipping clutch is where motor
goes fastger...and you dont.

On Tue, 6 Mar 2001, ukyo@speedfactory.net wrote:

> *First let me apologize for the basic questions contained here*
>
> What does it feel like when your plugs fail to fire correctly? Could
> it make the engine "skip" a little, but only under load? Would it
> feel a little like multiple split second hesitations? Could it be
> mistaken by someone who has never, *NEVER* had a slipping clutch as
> cluth slip?
>
> I ask because I have been reading up on spark plug gap in the
> archives and I think that the "mechanics" that rebuilt my heads and
> claim to have replaced my plugs either 1) did not gap them properly
> or 2) did not replace them at all and there's a greatly incredible
> chance that the plugs are fouled. Of course there's always then
> chance that I need new wires, too.
>
> After my engine rebuild and new clutch I started to feel what I
> thought was clutch slip almost immediately under load. Now, the more
> I think about it, I am entertaining the possibility that it could be
> bad wires or plugs making the engine stutter under load and I am
> mis-reading it as clutch slip. Is this possible, or do I need to
> have my clutch looked at? The car idles OK, but I think I may hear a
> minute miss (I have very untrained ears). Would a minute miss at
> idle lead to choppy hesitation under quick acceleration (say like a
> hard push in 3rd from 55 to 85)?
>
> Any help on this would be appreciated! I'm almost 100% sure that
> it's the plugs and / or wires, but I want to see what you guys have
> to say before I get in to the whole plenum removal, plugs, and wires
> ordeal this weekend coming.
>
> Add to the shopping cart: 2 Mitsubishi oil filters, 9 quarts of
> Mobil 1 Synthetic, 3 bottles of BG Syncroshift, 6 NGK Plugs, 6
> Performance wires (maybe Magnacore), and one plenum gasket. ;)
>
> It's going to be a busy weekend...
>
> --Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)
>
> '94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with basically new engine / Green)
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 09:33:50 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

If your problem is plugs, you will hear missing as you increase throttle
WITHOUT load, like with the car sitting in neutral. If it's a "minute"
(little) miss at idle, you can still see if you disconnect each plug wire
individually and see if the engine sounds change. That's a way to isolate a
dead plug/cylinder.

A slipping clutch causes an INCREASE in rpm under load, until the clutch
"catches" and then the rpm goes back to normal for that speed and gear.

I get the sneaking suspicion you have a FUEL problem - it sounds like your
fuel pump or injectors cannot keep up with high demand. Have you ever
changed the fuel filter or run injector cleaner through the car?

The spark plugs come "factory-gapped". You won't notice a hesitation
problem with not having the 0.034" gap until you are operating at both high
boost and high speed simultaneously. Maybe that's what you describe as a
hard push from 55 to 85 in third.

"Misfire" is very different from "missing". Missing means the cylinder
doesn't fire sometimes or all the time. Misfire means the cylinder fires at
the wrong time in the four stroke cycle, like before reaching maximum
compression of the fuel air mixture, or during the exhaust cycle. Misfire
is a symptom of incomplete combusion, timing problems, or ignition problems,
like shorts.

How many miles/years on your car? Are these the wires that came with the
car?

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ukyo@speedfactory.net [SMTP:ukyo@speedfactory.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 8:08 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?
>
> *First let me apologize for the basic questions contained here*
>
> What does it feel like when your plugs fail to fire correctly? Could
> it make the engine "skip" a little, but only under load? Would it
> feel a little like multiple split second hesitations? Could it be
> mistaken by someone who has never, *NEVER* had a slipping clutch as
> cluth slip?
>
> I ask because I have been reading up on spark plug gap in the
> archives and I think that the "mechanics" that rebuilt my heads and
> claim to have replaced my plugs either 1) did not gap them properly
> or 2) did not replace them at all and there's a greatly incredible
> chance that the plugs are fouled. Of course there's always then
> chance that I need new wires, too.
>
> After my engine rebuild and new clutch I started to feel what I
> thought was clutch slip almost immediately under load. Now, the more
> I think about it, I am entertaining the possibility that it could be
> bad wires or plugs making the engine stutter under load and I am
> mis-reading it as clutch slip. Is this possible, or do I need to
> have my clutch looked at? The car idles OK, but I think I may hear a
> minute miss (I have very untrained ears). Would a minute miss at
> idle lead to choppy hesitation under quick acceleration (say like a
> hard push in 3rd from 55 to 85)?
>
> Any help on this would be appreciated! I'm almost 100% sure that
> it's the plugs and / or wires, but I want to see what you guys have
> to say before I get in to the whole plenum removal, plugs, and wires
> ordeal this weekend coming.
>
> Add to the shopping cart: 2 Mitsubishi oil filters, 9 quarts of
> Mobil 1 Synthetic, 3 bottles of BG Syncroshift, 6 NGK Plugs, 6
> Performance wires (maybe Magnacore), and one plenum gasket. ;)
>
> It's going to be a busy weekend...
>
> --Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)
>
> '94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with basically new engine / Green)
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:02:42 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

> If your problem is plugs, you will hear missing as you
> increase throttle WITHOUT load, like with the car
> sitting in neutral. If it's a "minute" (little) miss
> at idle, you can still see if you disconnect each plug
> wire individually and see if the engine sounds change.
> That's a way to isolate a dead plug/cylinder.

Actually on a turbo car bad plugs/wires will show up far sooner under load
than not under load. Your test works fine on naturally aspirated cars, but
on a turbo you need to see how it feels/sounds under load.

> "Misfire" is very different from "missing". Missing means
> the cylinder doesn't fire sometimes or all the time.
> Misfire means the cylinder fires at the wrong time in
> the four stroke cycle, like before reaching maximum
> compression of the fuel air mixture, or during the
> exhaust cycle.

If that's the definition of misfire, then our cars continually misfire as
there are only three coil packs and six cylinders. Each time a coil fires
it ignites one cylinder with mixture in it and one on the exhaust stroke
simply because it is simpler to have a useless spark than to set up six
individual coils.

"mis·fire (ms-fr)
v. intr. mis··fired, mis·fir·ing, mis·fires.
To fail to ignite when expected. Used of an internal-combustion engine."

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:46:33 -0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

The wires could be the original set. I am not sure. The car has 58K
on it. The injectors very well could be dirty, as well. I guess
while I have the plenum off I'll dig through my manual and figure out
how to clean them (I can smell the diesel fuel already). Since I'm
fairly sure that once I pull the plenum the car will never run again
(I need to have a little faith in myself...) I might as well do as
much damage... um, repairs as possible.

I just read a thread over on 3Si.org that sounded a lot like what is
happening to me (they called it a 'shudder' while boosting) and their
fix was to get properly gapped NGK plugs.

I'm sure the injectors would benefit from a good cleaning and I'll
look in to the fuel filter, too. Besides, I need to get these minute
but extremely important tune up issues resolved before I start
raising the boost.

Now I know for sure that it is not clutch related and that it is an
engine maintenace issue that I need to resolve. The RPMs never race
up when I get the hesitation. Like I said, I've never felt clutch
slip (even after driving various manual cars for years) so I had no
idea what I was feeling.

Thanks to all that have offered advise. A properly maintained VR4 is
a happy VR4.

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)

'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with basically new engine / Green)

At Tue, 6 Mar 2001 09:33:50 -0600 , you wrote:
>If your problem is plugs, you will hear missing as you increase
throttle
>WITHOUT load, like with the car sitting in neutral. If it's a
"minute"
>(little) miss at idle, you can still see if you disconnect each plug
wire
>individually and see if the engine sounds change. That's a way to
isolate a
>dead plug/cylinder.
>
>A slipping clutch causes an INCREASE in rpm under load, until the
clutch
>"catches" and then the rpm goes back to normal for that speed and
gear.
>
>I get the sneaking suspicion you have a FUEL problem - it sounds
like your
>fuel pump or injectors cannot keep up with high demand. Have you
ever
>changed the fuel filter or run injector cleaner through the car?

[SNIP]

>How many miles/years on your car? Are these the wires that came
with the
>car?
>
>Chuck

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 09:16:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

> The wires could be the original set. I am not sure. The car has 58K
> on it. The injectors very well could be dirty, as well. I guess
- ---

Highly..highly..highly doubtful Dirty injectors run oddly, they dont
miss. Unless theyre totally shot..then they do it all the time.

> while I have the plenum off I'll dig through my manual and figure out
> how to clean them (I can smell the diesel fuel already).
- ---

What does diesel have to do with a proper cleaning and balancing at RC?
_Thats_ how you clean injectors.

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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:40:53 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?

Thanks, Matt! I guess I shouldn't write about how to rebuild the carburetor
either!

Chuck
(also continually misfiring)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt [SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 10:03 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?
>
> > If your problem is plugs, you will hear missing as you
> > increase throttle WITHOUT load, like with the car
> > sitting in neutral. If it's a "minute" (little) miss
> > at idle, you can still see if you disconnect each plug
> > wire individually and see if the engine sounds change.
> > That's a way to isolate a dead plug/cylinder.
>
> Actually on a turbo car bad plugs/wires will show up far sooner under load
> than not under load. Your test works fine on naturally aspirated cars,
> but
> on a turbo you need to see how it feels/sounds under load.
>
> > "Misfire" is very different from "missing". Missing means
> > the cylinder doesn't fire sometimes or all the time.
> > Misfire means the cylinder fires at the wrong time in
> > the four stroke cycle, like before reaching maximum
> > compression of the fuel air mixture, or during the
> > exhaust cycle.
>
> If that's the definition of misfire, then our cars continually misfire as
> there are only three coil packs and six cylinders. Each time a coil fires
> it ignites one cylinder with mixture in it and one on the exhaust stroke
> simply because it is simpler to have a useless spark than to set up six
> individual coils.
>
> "mis·fire (ms-fr)
> v. intr. mis··fired, mis·fir·ing, mis·fires.
> To fail to ignite when expected. Used of an internal-combustion engine."
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:21:40 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch test (Was: What are some symptoms of misfire?)

- ----- Original Message ----- From: <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
- ---------snip------------
>>> After my engine rebuild and new clutch I started to feel what I
thought was clutch slip almost immediately under load. Now, the more I
think about it, I am entertaining the possibility that it could be bad
wires or plugs making the engine stutter under load and I am mis-reading
it as clutch slip. Is this possible, or do I need to have my clutch
looked at...?<<<
- -----------------snip------------

Hey, Travis,

To eliminate whether or not your clutch is slipping, do this simple
test:

With the E-brake on, put the car in 2nd gear at idle, and s-l-o-w-l-y
let out the clutch pedal...

If the car stalls, the clutch is fine.

If the car sort of "jumps" a few times and then dies, the plate is
warped.

If the car keeps going with the clutch out fully, the clutch is
slipping, and needs 'serious' adjustment or replacement.

Best,

Forrest

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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 19:21:47 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: swirl polished valves

I'm going to try this one again --- I got no response the first time, but I
can't beleive that nobody knows the answer.

> I've seen reference to swirl polished valves lately ---- what is it,
> what is the benefit and what should it cost [ assuming you have
> the valves out of the heads].
>
> Jim Berry

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End of team3s V1 #428
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