team3s
Monday, March 5
2001
Volume 01 : Number
427
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Mar 2001 13:32:25 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Steering Wheel Vibration
> I just started getting a
vibration through the steering wheel
> whenever I turn the wheel.
It's more pronounced when I turn...
> I checked what suspension components
I could with the wheel
> off. Everything looked ok to my somewhat
untrained eye, the
> wheel bearings still feel tight...
Did you get
the alignment checked? Vibrations are most often due to
alignment
problems or unbalanced wheels. Have a trusted alignment shop
check the
alignment and wheel balance and see if that turns anything up.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 18:50:45
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: 3S and
Nagoya VIN databases available - email me
mreid@magma.caI've generated comma
delimited files with all of
the Mitsu CAPs VIN database info for Nagoya plant
91-99
production and smaller files with 3S info only (151,454
VINs worth
of data).
I've imported these files into Microsoft Access
database, so
also have some MDB files.
If you'd like ZIP files with any of all of
these
files, or my latest source code or executables used to
generate
these files, let me know. The ZIP files range
from 1-3 Megabytes in
size.
Mike.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 08:55:43
-0600
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Windshield wipers not on
automatically
Jeff,
Thanks. I noticed this
weekend that there is no variable speed available
in Intermittent mode on the
wipers. They are always on about a 10-second
delay (Slow) and go no
faster. This is puzzling as the delay works, but the
variable switch to
make it go faster does not. Possibly just a bad switch
now and most
likely in conjunction with the power outlet and cigarette
lighter
plug.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:29 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
Schilberg, Darren
Subject: RE: Team3S: Windshield wipers not on
automatically
My 92-96 service manual shows the cig lighter is Junction
Block
multi-purpose fuse #5 (not #1 which is for the seat belt,
active
aero, and MFI relay - hmmm, a good one to take out to deter
theft
along with #19 for the ECU) for all years. It also mentions a
thermal
fuse associated with the lighter. Maybe this has broken? The
manual
also shows the accessory socket and wipers are related through
J/B
fuse #10 (not #8 which is empty, except in my car when I have the
TMO
plugged in). Pages 22 and 54-119 to 54-123 in the 92-96 manual. Are
we
talking about the same fuses and car parts?
J/B fuse #1 is upper left and
fuse #19 is lower
right.
1-2-3-4-5
6-7-8-9-10-11-12
13-14-15-16-17-18-19
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 09:21:50
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ARC-2 questions
I've got one of those things with the standard
sized airflow meter, a set of
550cc injectors and a Supra fuel pump.
The issue I'm having is that it
seems to be somewhat temperature
sensitive. If I set it to run fine when
starting the car with the Accel
knob it'll idle pretty much okay until it
warms up, at which point it likes
to stall when slowing down for a stoplight
(or the idle is very wavy between
about 600 rpm and 1200 rpm). If I then
set Accel to balance that
behavior out, it will then be crappy again when
the car is first
started.
What gives? Is it getting confused due to changing
underhood temperatures?
It doesn't seem to have anything hooked up to measure
the temperature of the
incoming air - does that have something to do with
it? Is this a common
problem with the ARC-2? I kept hearing how
drivability wasn't affected at
all with the ARC-2, and I've heard the same
complaints from others that
their idle sucks. Anyone else on the list
having these problems, or has
anyone found a solution to minimize or
eliminate the problem?
GTPro tuned the car (the guys who helped MAKE the
kit, as well as distribute
it) and it STILL does it. Argh. I'm
about ready to rip it off the car and
do an S-AFC if I can't get this figured
out. :-(
Would adding an intake air temp sensor help? That's
the only thing I can
figure would affect how it works between cold/warm
operation. Is this a
2G-only issue with the ARC-2?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 09:58:12
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery
Sorry If this double posts - i
accidentally set my deafault e-mail account -
and got this bouced the first
time...
Just bought a Sealed Battery for my car (Optima Yellow
Top). And am
planning on trunk mounting it. What do I need to do
special for it? I have
4 gauge power wire back there already - so I was
thinking just run it to the
positive on the battery, and in front where all
the wires run together put a
junction block. Is 4 gauge
sufficient. I don't think even the factory used
4 gauge, but my run
is alittle longer than the factory. Also - Is there
any special
mounting procedure for a sealed battery? I know that whenever I
go to
car shows and stuff - even the daily driven cars have sealed batteries
just
bolted down - no special enclosures for them. Is this
OK?
Thanks
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 16:45:13
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery
Voltage Drop is caused by a
conductor's electrical resistance (Ohms)
and may be calculated according to
Ohm's Law--
(1) Voltage Drop (Volts) = Electrical Resistance (Ohms) X
Current(Amps)
Power Loss is calculated by--
(2) Power Loss (Watts) =
Voltage Drop (Volts) X Current(Amps)
By substituting the Voltage Drop
Equivalence from equation (1) into
equation (2), we find--
Power Loss
(Watts) = Ohms X Amps2
If we have a 12V system with a 100 ft. wire run of
12 gauge wire
(0.33 Ohms) and a 72 watt load, there will be a 6 amp current
(Amps
= Watts/Volts) and a power loss of 12 watts (0.33 Ohms X [6
Amps]2).
-
--
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of cody
Sent: 05 March 2001 15:58
To: starnet; Team3S
Subject:
Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery
Sorry If this double posts - i
accidentally set my deafault e-mail account -
and got this bouced the first
time...
Just bought a Sealed Battery for my car (Optima Yellow
Top). And am
planning on trunk mounting it. What do I need to do
special for it? I have
4 gauge power wire back there already - so I was
thinking just run it to the
positive on the battery, and in front where all
the wires run together put a
junction block. Is 4 gauge
sufficient. I don't think even the factory used
4 gauge, but my run
is alittle longer than the factory. Also - Is there
any special
mounting procedure for a sealed battery? I know that whenever I
go to
car shows and stuff - even the daily driven cars have sealed batteries
just
bolted down - no special enclosures for them. Is this
OK?
Thanks
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 10:56:25
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trunk Mounting Battery
OK - I knew that. The problem is
how much power do I need to get from the
back of the car to the front of the
car to start it, and to keep the battery
in the rear charged via the
alternator?
- -Cody
#Voltage Drop is caused by a conductor's
electrical resistance (Ohms)
#and may be calculated according to Ohm's
Law--
#(1) Voltage Drop (Volts) = Electrical Resistance (Ohms) X
Current(Amps)
#Power Loss is calculated by--
#(2) Power Loss (Watts) =
Voltage Drop (Volts) X Current(Amps)
#By substituting the Voltage Drop
Equivalence from equation (1) into
#equation (2), we find--
#Power Loss
(Watts) = Ohms X Amps2
#
#If we have a 12V system with a 100 ft. wire run
of 12 gauge wire
#(0.33 Ohms) and a 72 watt load, there will be a 6 amp
current (Amps
#= Watts/Volts) and a power loss of 12 watts (0.33 Ohms X [6
Amps]2).
#Just bought a Sealed Battery for my car (Optima Yellow
Top). And am
#planning on trunk mounting it. What do I need to do
special for
#it? I have
#4 gauge power wire back there already - so
I was thinking just run
#it to the
#positive on the battery, and in front
where all the wires run
#together put a
#junction block. Is 4 gauge
sufficient. I don't think even the
#factory used
#4 gauge, but my
run is alittle longer than the factory. Also - Is there
#any
special mounting procedure for a sealed battery? I know that
#whenever
I
#go to car shows and stuff - even the daily driven cars have
sealed
#batteries
#just bolted down - no special enclosures for
them. Is this OK?
#
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 19:15:07
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC-2 questions
>The issue I'm having is that
it
>seems to be somewhat temperature sensitive.
Yes, this is true.
I'd say it is definitely ambient sensible
> If I set it to
run fine when
>starting the car with the Accel knob it'll idle pretty much
okay until it
>warms up, at which point it likes to stall when slowing
down for a stoplight
>(or the idle is very wavy between about 600 rpm and
1200 rpm). If I then
>set Accel to balance that behavior out, it
will then be crappy again when
>the car is first started.
I do not
use the Accell at all with my 720cc setup.
>What gives? Is it
getting confused due to changing underhood temperatures?
Well underhood
temp changes on a wide range when it is cold outside. If
thsi happens, I
always have to adjust one click when it has warmed up and I
have to stand
still on a light.
>It doesn't seem to have anything hooked up to
measure the temperature of the
>incoming air - does that have something to
do with it?
This is correct. No temp adjusting.
>
Is this a common
>problem with the ARC-2? I kept hearing how
drivability wasn't affected at
>all with the ARC-2, and I've heard the
same complaints from others that
>their idle sucks.
No problem on
my car but when the season changes to cold I have to change
the Low
setting.
> Anyone else on the list having these problems,
or has
>anyone found a solution to minimize or eliminate the
problem?
You may try to tune it without the Accel knob. just use low and
mid. Also
what voltage is the TPS reading when the throttle is closed
?
>I'm about ready to rip it off the car and
>do an S-AFC if I
can't get this figured out. :-(
Sure, you can do this, but then you
probably run into the very same
problem. maybe not with 550cc as I do not
have any experience with them.
>Would adding an intake air temp sensor
help? That's the only thing I can
>figure would affect how it works
between cold/warm operation. Is this a
>2G-only issue with the
ARC-2?
No ARC2 has a temp sensor to compensate anything. The ARC
simulates 18°C to
the car what will provide the best performance when fuel
is calculated.
This wire could be cut and a temp sensor with the SAME specs
than in the
MAS could be hoocked u ptothe stock MAS connector. This will
then allow the
ECU to compensate for the different
temps.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:45:28
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Trunk Mounting Battery
Starter current is probably 100+ amps --- 4 gauge
is 'probably' OK. I'm
moving mine in a month or so but I'm going for 2 ga.
or maybe a pair of 4 ga.
wires. It's probably overkill but I'd rather go with
overkill than have a low voltage
problem, I'll also add a relay to run the
fuel pump so I'm guaranteed full fuel flow
when I do my
mods.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: cody <
overclck@starband.net>
To: <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Cc:
Team3S <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 05, 2001 8:56 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Trunk Mounting
Battery
> OK - I knew that. The problem is how much power do
I need to get from the
> back of the car to the front of the car to start
it, and to keep the battery
> in the rear charged via the
alternator?
>
> -Cody
>
>
> #Voltage Drop is
caused by a conductor's electrical resistance (Ohms)
> #and may be
calculated according to Ohm's Law--
> #(1) Voltage Drop (Volts) =
Electrical Resistance (Ohms) X Current(Amps)
> #Power Loss is calculated
by--
> #(2) Power Loss (Watts) = Voltage Drop (Volts) X
Current(Amps)
> #By substituting the Voltage Drop Equivalence from
equation (1) into
> #equation (2), we find--
> #Power Loss (Watts) =
Ohms X Amps2
> #
> #If we have a 12V system with a 100 ft. wire run
of 12 gauge wire
> #(0.33 Ohms) and a 72 watt load, there will be a 6 amp
current (Amps
> #= Watts/Volts) and a power loss of 12 watts (0.33 Ohms X
[6 Amps]2).
>
>
> #Just bought a Sealed Battery for my car
(Optima Yellow Top). And am
> #planning on trunk mounting it.
What do I need to do special for
> #it? I have
> #4 gauge
power wire back there already - so I was thinking just run
> #it to
the
> #positive on the battery, and in front where all the wires
run
> #together put a
> #junction block. Is 4 gauge
sufficient. I don't think even the
> #factory used
> #4 gauge,
but my run is alittle longer than the factory. Also - Is
there
> #any special mounting procedure for a sealed battery? I know
that
> #whenever I
> #go to car shows and stuff - even the daily
driven cars have sealed
> #batteries
> #just bolted down - no
special enclosures for them. Is this OK?
> #
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#427
*********************