team3s
Friday, February 23
2001 Volume 01
: Number
417
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:06:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
I did..but was in a
pinch and had to use the Synth Valvoline fluid..like I
said.
it
sucks.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Merritt wrote:
>
> >huge
mistake on the track..drove the car 400 miles and got one half-asses
>
>session out of it. Brake fluid just went to heck...and came out
black
> >when we bled it the following week.
> >
> Old
Chinese proverb: "Always bleed brakes BEFORE an event, grasshopper."
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:39:06
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
It's mostly closed --- the rubber
diaphragm on the top isolates the fluid
from the vent holes in the cap, not a
perfect system but it should be
pretty good.[ that's my story and I'm
sticken to it ].
Jim
berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Its not a closed system...ahhh..
>
> The caps vent air in and out
of the cyler tanks.
>
> >
> > Again, how much exposure
to water does the clutch fluid get in a closed
> > system?
> >
> > Your points are absolutely correct for brake fluid, which reaches
high
> > temperatures and gets saturated with water from the air of
several months.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:47:10
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SMC Alky kit group buy....
A bunch of the Buick Grand National boys use
and swear by them.
I'll use some form of water/alcohol injection and mount
the tank in
the place where the battery was [ it's a sprial cell battery
mounted
in the back --- well almost mounted anyway
].
Jim Berry
P.S. Willow Springs ---- end of April --- no excuses, miss the
event
and suffer the wrath of the
racing Gods.
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
Is anyone currently using this system? Where do you put that big
bottle?
>
> > Hi All.. if anyone is interested..
> >
> > Here's the link for more info on the kit:
> >
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html>
>
> > Here's the link for group buy:
> >
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=1ead83de3115cac6f2a04769f91c278d&threadid=21993***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 22:02:28
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S:wheels and tires
On my way home from work today, I reached the
apex of a hill in the snow. I
started to slow down because I feel
uneasy whenever I go down steep hills in
the snow because the performance
tires just seem to get so hard in the cold
weather that they just
slide. I meant to turn down a side street, but the
back end kept going
down the hill. I hit the brakes like a jerk and the ABS
turned on
making the car continue its journey sideways down the hill. I hit
the
curb and bent the rim and ruined the tire. I hit at like 5 mph, and
the
steering is straight. What should I check out that could have been
damaged?
I might as well buy new wheels and tires and want 18x9 or wider for
a 95
VR-4. What do you all suggest? This car really is a tank--it
bent that
wheel pretty good for such a slow
impact.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:06:29
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: 60K
Service - Bent/Poked Intake Gasket, Rear Camshaft Seals etc.
I got my
comprehensive 60K parts package from Tallahassee Mitsu today
and everything
looks OK, except for my "Air Intake (Plenum) Gasket"
(MD143791).
One
end is bent about 25 degrees from horizontal between the first and
second
(5th and 6th?) cylinder holes. It's bent just barely enough to create
one
almost non-existent and one somewhat more severe crimp; it seems very
minor
but it's just enough that it could never be perfect again.
Also,
between an end bolt hole and the edge, there' what looks like a
punch
mark
and a pin-prick of light is visible through a hole. Should I
get this
replaced or
is this normal or no big deal ? Heck, it's only $6,
and I'm hoping the
intake manifold
won't be touched until the next
60K.
The water pump gasket is also slightly bent, about 15 degrees, but
it's not
crimped
and this doesn't seem that critical. (?)
(BTW, I
chose Tallahassee because they have a web-site with on-line ordering,
and
unlike Rockville and West Broad, they actually corrected (no
explanation
though)
my emailed list, rather than just quoting prices. The other places
would
have been
happy to sell me the wrong parts.)
I'm
having the service done by a local well known DSM shop here in Ottawa
(
http://www.speedstyle.com/ ) and want to
keep the labor charges reasonable.
But I also want to get virtually
EVERYTHING replaced that might break or leak
in the next 60K miles. (Or at
least those things that require removal of
timing
belt or intake manifold
or anything else in the 60K.)
My comprehensive parts list for my 94
Stealth R/T Turbo with virtually all
options is below. I don't think I've
missed anything that is generally
recommended.
But, should I bother
with the "Camshaft End Cap"s and "Rear Camshaft Seal"s ?
Could those leak and
is replacing them a big deal, now at the 60K service or
in the future
seperately ? Do these only require removing the valve covers ?
I've got
the "Front Camshaft Seal"s and I guess I should get these replaced,
since
they can leak and replacement requires a timing belt R&R. I guess
the
same applies to the "Front Crankshaft Oil Seal" also ??
Also, I've
heard of someone having to replace their "Water Inlet Tube"
(MD146833
$34.58) which runs from the water pump at front of engine,
under intake
manifold to back (pass. side) of engine. Anyone else hear
of this ?
Apparently the intake manifold must be removed for this so it'd
be best done
at 60K if needed before 120K. I'm not sure if my coolant has
ever been
changed (it will be now), so I'm paranoid about the cooling
system.
Does this list seem comprehensive or will I regret not
ordering some other
parts ?
(Air filter not included as I have an
HKS.)
Valve Timing
Belt
MD193874
Timing(Belt)[Tensioner]Adjuster MD319040
Timing (Belt) Tensioner
Pulley MD140071
(Timing Belt) Idler
Pulley MD319022
Waterpump
Kit
MD972005
Thermostat
Kit
MD174234
A/C
Belt
MB879764
Power Steering
Belt
MD172376
Throttle Body
Gasket
MD180361
Air Intake (Plenum) Gasket
MD143791
Fuel
Filter
MB658136
Spark
Plugs
MS851336 (6)
Spark Plug Cable
Set
MD193980
Front valve cover oil cap
MD317439
PCV
valve
MD153242
EGR Pipe
Gasket
MD149764
Front Camshaft
Seal
MD152603 (4)
Camshaft End
Cap
MF665538 (4)
Rear Camshaft
Seal
MD150785 (4)
Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
MD120700
Radiator
Cap
MB660701
Lower Radiator
Hose
MB605460
Upper Radiator
Hose
MB605459
Thanks and Regards from icy cold Ottawa,
Canada,
Mike.
94 R/T Turbo.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 18:22:50
-0800
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: time do do the brakes... suggestions?
Hi All,
It's time to do
my brakes ('92 VR4). I don't race, but I do
accelerate/decelerate quite
a lot. I'm open to the idea of installing
something other than stock
pads.
Questions.
I assume all I will need is pads, fluid, and get
the rotors turned?
What are good pads to buy?
What are pads to
avoid?
I like the idea of getting a second set of rotors, so that I can
just
swap them out, and not have to wait while they are being
resurfaced.
Is there any other advantage to this that I am missing?
What about
cost? What are good rotors to consider?
I'd like to
eliminate the inevitable disc warpage problem if possible.
Any thoughts
here?
Thanks for your time.
John
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:37:09
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: time do do the brakes... suggestions?
At 06:22 PM 2/22/01
-0800, Dr. John A. Tabler wrote:
>Hi All,
>It's time to do my brakes
('92 VR4). I don't race, but I do
>accelerate/decelerate quite a
lot. I'm open to the idea of installing
>something other than stock
pads.
>
Here's the standard answer, Doc:
Porterfield
cryogenically treated stock rotors, about $140 each. They don't
warp,
ever.
Porterfield R4S pads. Good street/high performance pad.
Flush and
replace the brake fluid with Ford High Performance brake fluid.
Best bargain
in racing. Available at your friendly Ford dealer for $3 a pint.
This
will fix you right up.
Oh, wait, you're a DOCTOR. Forget all that. See
Brad Bedell and get a set
of Big Red Porsche calipers, Pagid Orange pads, a
two-piece KVR rotor, BFG
stainless steel lines, Motul brake fluid,
etc,.
A doctor, eh? I have this pain in my gluteous
maximus...
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:31:49
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
Ya..mostly but it isnt a
closed system.
Humidity is everywhere, temperature changes (and they
surely exist under
the hood) cause condensation..etc.
Wet boilings
temps is important.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
>
It's mostly closed --- the rubber diaphragm on the top isolates the
fluid
> from the vent holes in the cap, not a perfect system but it should
be
> pretty good.[ that's my story and I'm sticken to it ].
>
> Jim berry
>
===============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
To: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
> > Its not a closed system...ahhh..
> >
> > The
caps vent air in and out of the cyler tanks.
> >
> > >
> > > Again, how much exposure to water does the clutch fluid get
in a closed
> > > system?
> > >
> > > Your
points are absolutely correct for brake fluid, which reaches high
> >
> temperatures and gets saturated with water from the air of several
months.
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:41:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: time do do the brakes... suggestions?
> Questions.
>
> I assume all I will need is pads, fluid, and get the rotors
turned?
>
> What are good pads to buy?
>
> What are
pads to avoid?
- ---
Here is what I can do on porterfield
hardware:
1st Gen Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
Front Rotors JBR 582 $77.00
Rear Rotors JBR 585 $85.00
Front R4-S AP 531 $57.00
Rear R4-S AP 532
TBD (Probly $45..need to dbl check)
Full Case
Motul-600 $79.00
Full Case Motul-5.1 $46.80
A case of fluid sounds
like a lot..but its worth it to just have it on
hand.
+ shipping
+
$5 paypal use fee
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:42:00
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: time do do the brakes... suggestions?
Geoff: How
much for 94 front rotors and how much for cryogenic
treatment?
Rich
>
>Here is what I can do on porterfield
hardware:
>
>1st Gen Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
>Front Rotors JBR
582 $77.00
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:49:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: time do do the brakes... suggestions?
2nd Gen Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4
Front Rotors JBR 785 $99.50
Rear Rotors JBR 786 $94.00
Front R4-S AP 531 $57.00
Rear R4-S AP 631 $64.00
Special Services
Cryo Treatment $40.00
Slotting $40.00
Drilling $40.00
On
Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Merritt wrote:
> Geoff: How much for 94
front rotors and how much for cryogenic treatment?
> Rich
>
>
> >Here is what I can do on porterfield hardware:
>
>
> >1st Gen Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
> >Front Rotors JBR 582
$77.00
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:51:30
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: time do do the brakes... suggestions?
Just..so were all on
the same page.
I have 0 markup..Im passing this along to all the good
members of the
Team3s list...anyone can feel free to Email me privately and I
can help
you out.
I head to Singapore on Sunday..so there will be a
day long delay as I
process Email at different times for 2 weeks.
On
Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Merritt wrote:
> Geoff: How much for 94
front rotors and how much for cryogenic treatment?
> Rich
>
>
> >Here is what I can do on porterfield hardware:
>
>
> >1st Gen Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
> >Front Rotors JBR 582
$77.00
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:10:25
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
Geoff
My point was --- the
only time humidity should get into the system is when
you remove the cap and
the rubber diaphragm. If the diaphragm is intact
and the lid is tight then
the system is closed, all venting occurs between the
cap and the
diaphragm.
I agree that wet boiling point but them of us what race don't
usually have the
fluid in the car long enough to absorb much water. I've been
using the
Valvoline synthetic, 502 dry and 334 wet with no adverse
results.
Now that your in the brake business what's my cost on 94+ front
rotors and
the R4 pads for the big reds [ Porsche 993 ]. I saw your post but
I'm not sure
what JBR rotors
are.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
> Ya..mostly
but it isnt a closed system.
>
> Humidity is everywhere,
temperature changes (and they surely exist under
> the hood) cause
condensation..etc.
>
> Wet boilings temps is important.
>
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > It's mostly
closed --- the rubber diaphragm on the top isolates the fluid
> > from
the vent holes in the cap, not a perfect system but it should be
> >
pretty good.[ that's my story and I'm sticken to it ].
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:25:40
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
If its sealed..and no
humidity can get in or out of there..then why isnt
the cap sucked down into
the res. when the fluid level drops?
Air..slowly but surely..does move in
and out of there.
Granted its only a problem for people who dont flush
fluid often
enough.but it happens.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Jim Berry
wrote:
> Geoff
>
> My point was --- the only time
humidity should get into the system is when
> you remove the cap and the
rubber diaphragm. If the diaphragm is intact
> and the lid is tight then
the system is closed, all venting occurs between the
> cap and the
diaphragm.
> I agree that wet boiling point but them of us what race don't
usually have the
> fluid in the car long enough to absorb much water. I've
been using the
> Valvoline synthetic, 502 dry and 334 wet with no adverse
results.
>
> Now that your in the brake business what's my cost on
94+ front rotors and
> the R4 pads for the big reds [ Porsche 993 ]. I saw
your post but I'm not sure
> what JBR rotors are.
>
> Jim Berry
>
================================================
>
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
To: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
>
> >
Ya..mostly but it isnt a closed system.
> >
> > Humidity is
everywhere, temperature changes (and they surely exist under
> > the
hood) cause condensation..etc.
> >
> > Wet boilings temps is
important.
> >
> > On Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Jim Berry
wrote:
> >
> > > It's mostly closed --- the rubber
diaphragm on the top isolates the fluid
> > > from the vent holes in
the cap, not a perfect system but it should be
> > > pretty good.[
that's my story and I'm sticken to it ].
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:28:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> Now that your in
the brake business what's my cost on 94+ front rotors and
> the R4 pads
for the big reds [ Porsche 993 ]. I saw your post but I'm not sure
> what
JBR rotors are.
- ---
JBR is just a part designation at
Porterfield. All thier pads are APs,
the Rotors are JBRs.
_shrug_
Front Rotors JBR 785 $99.50
Rear Rotors JBR 786 $94.00
If I could recall what car those rotors are natively found on..I
could get
a pad price.
Anyone? Bueller?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:33:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> If I could recall
what car those rotors are natively found on..I could get
> a pad
price.
- ---
Im betting its an AP594: Approximately $110 per set
for R4-S, and $115
for R4 and R4-Es.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:05:50
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Flywheel shield
-----Original
Message-----
From: Steve Cooper <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, 23 February 2001 05:29
Subject: Flywheel
shield
Hi all
Here in
New Zealand if we want to go on the dragstrip and do better than
13.00 we now
need a flywheel scattershield.I cheched NIRA rules today and
found thatthe
same applies in USA but the time is 12.00 or faster.
The
question is who has a scattershield, where do I buy one from, do I
have to
get one custom made, or do I just forget about it because it's too
hard to
do.
Comments please.
Steve
Cooper
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:12:53
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Flywheel shield
Re-read the rules.
They might say
(I think) that it is in the case where driver harm can
ocurr.
Our
flywhee is NOT bound to blow up all over the driver in the
transversal
design.
On Fri, 23 Feb 2001, Steve Cooper
wrote:
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Steve Cooper <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Friday, 23 February 2001 05:29
> Subject:
Flywheel shield
>
>
> Hi all
>
> Here in New Zealand if we want to go on the
dragstrip and do better than
> 13.00 we now need a flywheel
scattershield.I cheched NIRA rules today and
> found thatthe same applies
in USA but the time is 12.00 or faster.
> The
question is who has a scattershield, where do I buy one from, do I
> have
to get one custom made, or do I just forget about it because it's too
>
hard to do.
>
> Comments please.
>
> Steve Cooper
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:12:52
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active Spoiler ECU
Hi all
Sounds like your dealer
doesn't know what he's doing. Do they have any
decent auto electricians in
your part of the world? BTW is the car a UK spec
or Jap spec. Some of the
circuits can be a bit different from USA spec.
Steve
Cooper
>The Active Spoiler is not functioning due to either
>1.
two wires that run to it have breaks in them? (still to be checked)
>2.
The ECU is damaged.
>
>The green light shows on the switch when the
switch is off and ignition on,
>it goes out after the ignition is off, and
they say that they have checked
>everything motors, micro switches etc.
Any ideas as to what the two wires
>are they are talking
about?
>
>How much should an ECU cost for a 1995 Twin Turbo ?
Anyone have a spare
>working one they would ship to UK?
Cost?
>
>I showed them the archive pages on the web and some of the
members Web
sites
>and it blew them away. Also had a sneak peek at the
new Evo 7 nice very
nice
>going for a test drive tomorrow? It's
supposed to stick to the tarmac like
>you know
what.
>
>
>
>eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.com>eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com>Office:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
>Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
>Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
>Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
>Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
>ICQ#:
1741675
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:21:44
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Flywheel shield
Hi all
The rules might be new for
2001. They're at NIRA.com.The difference between
me & you people in USA
is that I'm in your passenger seat or you're in my
passenger seat. Im
in line with the flywheel. I'll bet there's never been a
documented failure
though.
Steve Cooper
- --
>Re-read the
rules.
>
>They might say (I think) that it is in the case where
driver harm can
>ocurr.
>
>Our flywhee is NOT bound to blow up
all over the driver in the
transversal
>design.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:28:17
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Flywheel shield
Ah bullocks.
Forgot about that
right-drive thing there...
On Fri, 23 Feb 2001, Steve Cooper
wrote:
> Hi all
>
> The rules might be new for 2001.
They're at NIRA.com.The difference between
> me & you people in USA is
that I'm in your passenger seat or you're in my
> passenger seat. Im
in line with the flywheel. I'll bet there's never been a
> documented
failure though.
>
> Steve Cooper
> --
>
>
>Re-read the rules.
> >
> >They might say (I think) that it
is in the case where driver harm can
> >ocurr.
> >
>
>Our flywhee is NOT bound to blow up all over the driver in the
transversal
> >design.
> >
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:31:54
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Flywheel shield
Hi all
>Ah
bullocks
>> >Our flywhee is NOT bound to blow up all over the driver
in the
transversal
>> >design.
I've just re checked
the rules.
It applies to all cars quicker than 11.99
Steve
Cooper
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:46:57
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE:Active Spoiler ECU
This is the ONLY Mitsubishi dealer in
Northern Ireland!
I have recived a price for the ECU (UK spec 1995)
£295.00 ($426.756) from
the dealer. Given the price I want to be dam sure
that it is the ECU, and
that a cheaper version is not available. Is there a
simple way to test that
it is the ECU that is at fault? What price are these
available at in the
US/Other? Does the ECU control anything else?
-
-----Original Message-----
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Steve Cooper
Sent: 24 February 2001 02:13
To: Team3S Technical
Forum
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active Spoiler ECU
Hi all
Sounds
like your dealer doesn't know what he's doing. Do they have any
decent auto
electricians in your part of the world? BTW is the car a UK spec
or Jap spec.
Some of the circuits can be a bit different from USA spec.
Steve
Cooper
>The Active Spoiler is not functioning due to either
>1.
two wires that run to it have breaks in them? (still to be checked)
>2.
The ECU is damaged.
>
>The green light shows on the switch when the
switch is off and ignition on,
>it goes out after the ignition is off, and
they say that they have checked
>everything motors, micro switches etc.
Any ideas as to what the two wires
>are they are talking
about?
>
>How much should an ECU cost for a 1995 Twin Turbo ?
Anyone have a spare
>working one they would ship to UK?
Cost?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 06:26:01
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S:wheels and tires
Sam,
Sorry. I
posted some warnings before about our cars. It is not the
speed -- it
is the momentum. Acceleration is 32 ft/sec^2 so 5 mph really
does mean
something (60 mph is 88 feet/sec so 5 mph is 7.3 feet/sec).
Multiply that by
nearly 4,000 pounds and you get a good amount of force
hitting a 40 pound
rim. I drop my insurance each winter down to $100
deductible.
Costs triple the premium for three months but the peace of mind
is well worth
it. I don't want some yahoo sliding into me and making me pay
$1,000
when it can get covered with $100.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and given one
scare this winter cuz my funds ran dry to purchase
Blizzaks -- never
again
- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [
mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Thursday,
February 22, 2001 17:02
This car really is a tank--it bent that
wheel
pretty good for such a slow impact.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 06:28:41
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60K Service - Bent/Poked Intake Gasket, Rear Camshaft Seals
etc.
Mike,
I had a recent run-in with Tallahassee Mitsu when they
sent me mudguards for
a Cordia *bog* instead of a VR-4. Three months
later I finally get an email
saying the previous two people have been sacked
and they will ship me a full
set of 4 and pay for the difference in shipping
and the price of 4 mudguards
instead of 2.
It took a while but their
customer service came through like a knight in
shining armor. They
might mess up a thing or two but I feel they really are
good, reputable
people.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael
Reid [
mailto:mreid@magma.ca]
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 21:06
I got my comprehensive 60K parts
package from Tallahassee Mitsu today
and everything looks OK, except for my
"Air Intake (Plenum) Gasket"
(MD143791).
(BTW, I chose Tallahassee
because they have a web-site with on-line
ordering,
and unlike Rockville
and West Broad, they actually corrected (no
explanation though)
my emailed
list, rather than just quoting prices. The other places would
have
been
happy to sell me the wrong parts.)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 08:20:22
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S:wheels and tires
Was the impact to the wheel at 90 degrees or
straight on as if you would
drive over the curb?
You need a new wheel,
or sometimes you can get wheels repaired - we have
such a place in Houston -
for $90.
You need a new tire, if the one on the other side is pretty
worn, you
probably want two new ones to even things out.
You should do
a four wheel alignment - if suspension parts are bent you'll
find out
then.
You should check the front wheel bearings for noise or excessive
free play.
I wish I had a weather excuse for the time I drove my son's
car over a curb
destroying two tires and wheels.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat [
SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:02 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S:wheels and tires
>
>
> On my way home from work
today, I reached the apex of a hill in the snow.
> I
> started to
slow down because I feel uneasy whenever I go down steep hills
>
in
> the snow because the performance tires just seem to get so hard in
the
> cold
> weather that they just slide. I meant to turn
down a side street, but the
> back end kept going down the hill. I
hit the brakes like a jerk and the
> ABS
> turned on making the car
continue its journey sideways down the hill. I
> hit
> the
curb and bent the rim and ruined the tire. I hit at like 5 mph,
and
> the
> steering is straight. What should I check out that
could have been
> damaged?
> I might as well buy new wheels and
tires and want 18x9 or wider for a 95
> VR-4. What do you all
suggest? This car really is a tank--it bent that
> wheel pretty good
for such a slow impact.
>
> Sam
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:09:06
-0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
I have gone 150 in
my 95-VR4 Spyder with the top up. Of course wind noise
was amplified,
but I have no rattles in the top at speed. There is a
technical service
bulletin (TSB SC-96-002) issued in May 96 called
"Retractable Hardtop
Upgrade" It is my understanding that all 95 Spyders
should have had the
upgrade performed as a recall and that 96 Spyders
(including those sold in
97) were upgraded prior to sale.
I am not clear on exactly what the
upgrade would have fixed. If you pay a
fee to ALLDATA, you can get the
complete text of the TSB.
Jim
95 3000GT VR4 Spyder
91 3000GT
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:21:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods
Hmmm, I wonder how much faster the runs may have been
with good ICs?
Does anybody have any performance data for before and
after just an
IC change? How about any IC data at all, such as pressure loss
at
different flow levels for the stock or any aftermarket setup? My
plans
are to add pressure taps to the IC pipes near the turbos and
ICs, but this is
not done yet.
Also, while actual performance may not change with upgraded
ICs, the
health of the engine may improve due to reduced air temps (from
less
pressure loss and better cooling) and so reduced detonation.
From
what I have read, in general, larger ICs have better
cooling
efficiency and less pressure loss than smaller
intercoolers.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Mods
<snip>
"Intercooler/s: Useless...unless long track
racing in which case
I'll allow they MAY help (no data on that, just data
that BIG/free
flowing SIDEmounts such as Alamo's or HKS did NOT help my
ET/MPH at
dragstrip AT ALL. MAYbe a frontmount helps, but I sure didn't
have
them for any of my records--they were all through
stock
intercoolers)."
<snip>
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:09:35
-0600
From: S J Cowan <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods
Jeff:
I agree. I realize that better IC's may
not pay off that much at the
dragstrip, but overall perfomance and engine
efficiency and maintenance
can only be better with this mod, especially
chasing Rich at open track
events.
Best,
SJ
On Fri, 23
Feb 2001 10:21:55 -0800 (PST) Jeff Lucius
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
writes:
> Hmmm, I wonder how much faster the runs may have been with good
ICs?
>
> Does anybody have any performance data for before and
after just an
> IC change? How about any IC data at all, such as pressure
loss at
> different flow levels for the stock or any aftermarket setup?
My
> plans are to add pressure taps to the IC pipes near the turbos
and
> ICs, but this is not done yet.
>
> Also, while actual
performance may not change with upgraded ICs,
> the
> health of the
engine may improve due to reduced air temps (from
> less
> pressure
loss and better cooling) and so reduced detonation. From
> what I have
read, in general, larger ICs have better cooling
> efficiency and less
pressure loss than smaller intercoolers.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>
> To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:24 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Re:
Mods
>
> <snip>
> "Intercooler/s:
Useless...unless long track racing in which case
> I'll allow they MAY
help (no data on that, just data that BIG/free
> flowing SIDEmounts such
as Alamo's or HKS did NOT help my ET/MPH at
> dragstrip AT ALL.
MAYbe a frontmount helps, but I sure didn't have
> them for any of my
records--they were all through stock
> intercoolers)."
>
<snip>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
>
http://auctions.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
________________________________________________________________
GET
INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for
less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:33:46
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods
>I realize that better IC's may not pay off that much
at the
>dragstrip, but overall perfomance and engine efficiency and
maintenance
>can only be better with this mod, especially chasing Rich at
open track
>events.
>
Who, me? Naw, I'm just an old fart who can
barely make it around the track.
You young pu....uh, drivers, won't have any
trouble getting by me, ICs or
no ICs.
Don't be scared by my tall
tales. Just cuz I can whup up on M3s, 911s and
C5s doesn't mean a thing. It's
all the CAR. As I have said a zillion times
on this list, we have better
street iron than anybody out there except for
TT Porsches and Vipers. Just
fix the brakes, and you'll have a
world-beater, even with a stock
engine.
Any of you young dudes with a VR4 or a TT Stealth can do the same
or better
than me with your lighting fast reflexes and superb car control.
C'mon out
and I'll show you.
And as for other old farts like me, you
guys come on out too. Our car puts
us on equal footing with all those young
punk Internet millionaires in
their brand new fancy 911s and M3s. I just love
to sit my old gray bones
down in the VR4 and pass those 24-year-olds in their
new cars. Damn! Makes
me feel GOOD!
Rich/creaky old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:40:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods
> C5s doesn't mean a thing. It's all the CAR. As I
have said a zillion times
- --
No..its all the driver.
*grin*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:16:57
-0800
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods
Aside from actually installing probes, my front mount
honestly makes
the car *feel* stronger during the hottest summer days@ the
same boost
settings; its like running on
a cool night, except during the
day.
According to Spearco's specs, it should have around 85-90% efficiency
on
anything more than about 30 mph, with about 1.5psi pressure
drop.
The stock ones always felt like they were pushing down a good 20hp
on
superhot days.
Once I get datalogging, I'll prove that I believe it
reduces temps, and in
turn detonation,
given the exact same boost levels
and conditions compared to the stock
intercoolers.
This is very important
to those that can't easily get race gas or any 100+
octane gas, like me
:)
I don't think front mounts will play a difference during the quarter
mile,
but hammering it
on a race course or extended lengths of boost (ie.
top speed runs on pump
gas) might prove different
results.
Best,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 23, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods
>
Hmmm, I wonder how much faster the runs may have been with good
ICs?
>
> Does anybody have any performance data for before and after
just an
> IC change? How about any IC data at all, such as pressure loss
at
> different flow levels for the stock or any aftermarket setup?
My
> plans are to add pressure taps to the IC pipes near the turbos
and
> ICs, but this is not done yet.
>
> Also, while actual
performance may not change with upgraded ICs, the
> health of the engine
may improve due to reduced air temps (from less
> pressure loss and better
cooling) and so reduced detonation. From
> what I have read, in general,
larger ICs have better cooling
> efficiency and less pressure loss than
smaller intercoolers.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 00:40:58
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Front bumper tank for WI-Systems
I've put the tank-information
onto the top of my 3000GT pages :
http://www.rtec.ch/3000gt.htmlCheck
it out and email me privately if interested. The price is what I've
been told
this week but is subject of change. I hope it will become cheaper
due to the
better exchange rate.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#417
*********************
team3s
Saturday, February 24
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
418
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:37:12 -0800
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
Hi Jim,
What
was the exact TSB again? You seemed to be missing 2 digits in
the
middle. I searched alldata
(
http://www.alldata.com/consumer/TSB/39/96392231.html),
and found this TSB:
96-42A-003 FEB
96 Operational Characteristics, 3000GT
Spyder
But it's the wrong date, wrong title.
I've got a 95 Spyder
VR4, it seems to have the same rattles Jeff described,
and I've actually been
afraid to take it much over 100 because I swear the
chassis flexes a lot more
than it should, and I'm worried the car will get
unstable. I will
gladly pay alldata for any info that might lead to an
improvement, but I
can't find the TSB you're talking
about...
Thanks,
Fred
"Watkins, Jim" wrote:
> I have
gone 150 in my 95-VR4 Spyder with the top up. Of course wind noise
>
was amplified, but I have no rattles in the top at speed. There is
a
> technical service bulletin (TSB SC-96-002) issued in May 96
called
> "Retractable Hardtop Upgrade" It is my understanding that
all 95 Spyders
> should have had the upgrade performed as a recall and
that 96 Spyders
> (including those sold in 97) were upgraded prior to
sale.
>
> I am not clear on exactly what the upgrade would have
fixed. If you pay a
> fee to ALLDATA, you can get the complete text
of the TSB.
>
> Jim
> 95 3000GT VR4 Spyder
> 91 3000GT
VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:41:44
-0800
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
Did another search
right after I clicked "send", and of course I
immediately found the
TSB
(
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/39/95392116.html).
Sorry about wasting
the bandwidth - but thanks for the info!
-
-Fred
Hi Jim,
What was the exact TSB again? You seemed to be
missing 2 digits in
the
middle. I searched alldata
(
http://www.alldata.com/consumer/TSB/39/96392231.html),
and found this
TSB:
96-42A-003 FEB
96 Operational Characteristics, 3000GT
Spyder
But it's the wrong date, wrong title.
I've got a 95 Spyder
VR4, it seems to have the same rattles Jeff
described,
and I've actually
been afraid to take it much over 100 because I swear
the
chassis flexes a
lot more than it should, and I'm worried the car will
get
unstable.
I will gladly pay alldata for any info that might lead to
an
improvement,
but I can't find the TSB you're talking
about...
Thanks,
Fred
"Watkins, Jim" wrote:
> I have
gone 150 in my 95-VR4 Spyder with the top up. Of course wind noise
>
was amplified, but I have no rattles in the top at speed. There is
a
> technical service bulletin (TSB SC-96-002) issued in May 96
called
> "Retractable Hardtop Upgrade" It is my understanding that
all 95 Spyders
> should have had the upgrade performed as a recall and
that 96 Spyders
> (including those sold in 97) were upgraded prior to
sale.
>
> I am not clear on exactly what the upgrade would have
fixed. If you pay a
> fee to ALLDATA, you can get the complete text
of the TSB.
>
> Jim
> 95 3000GT VR4 Spyder
> 91 3000GT
VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 13:46:08
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Front bumper tank for WI-Systems
Roger,
Thanks Roger for all the
info and the comprehensive page on the Water Tank.
I will let you know when I
will buy it. I want to put up for sale, on
e-bay, my auxillary Alpine
GPS/TV/TV tuner/CD-player/Radio system from my
car. The drawback is
that it is a JAPAN system, and the GPS will only work
there. Do you, or
any of the admins have a list of where everyone on the
list is from. I
am intrested in knowing who the Japanese members are, so
that I can point
themto the right website to see my system. I still have to
put up the
website.
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
- ---------------------------------------
From:
"Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Front bumper tank for WI-Systems
I've put the tank-information
onto the top of my 3000GT pages :
http://www.rtec.ch/3000gt.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 00:19:03
+0200
From: "Oleg" <
Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:
Front bumper tank for WI-Systems
I installed tank still half
a year ago, but I have the following problem:
water flows from the WIS pump
back into the tank and the pump cannot raise
it back. In the service
they recommend to place the valve, which it will not
this allow. Someone did
have this problem?
Oleg
www.3000gt.lv>
Roger,
>
> Thanks Roger for all the info and the comprehensive page
on the Water
Tank.
> I will let you know when I will buy it. I
want to put up for sale, on
> e-bay, my auxillary Alpine GPS/TV/TV
tuner/CD-player/Radio system from my
> car. The drawback is that it
is a JAPAN system, and the GPS will only
work
> there. Do you, or
any of the admins have a list of where everyone on the
> list is
from. I am intrested in knowing who the Japanese members are, so
>
that I can point themto the right website to see my system. I still
have
to
> put up the website.
>
>
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu> 95 Red VR4
>
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
>
---------------------------------------
> From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
Subject: Team3S: Front bumper tank for WI-Systems
>
> I've put the
tank-information onto the top of my 3000GT pages :
>
>
http://www.rtec.ch/3000gt.html>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:20:44
-0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
>> > The
noises DID get worse when I put springs on the spyder, I'm going to
>>
> assume most of the noise is from chassis flex and age.
I don't
understand how lowering could increase the noise.
Can someone enlighten
me?
>> > This summer I'm going to stitch weld the unibody on the
spyder,
>> hopefully
>> > this will help the flex a
little.
I assume stitch weld is the same as spot welding - right or
wrong?
Where would additional welding decrease the flexing?
Thanks for
any reply.
Regards,
ptg
>>
>> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 22:28:35
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods
At 09:04 PM 2/24/01 -0500, Willard Semple
wrote:
>Hi Rich,
>
>You may be forgetting, those young pu....
uh, drivers, haven't lived
>long enough to have developed the treachery us
old dudes have learned
>over the years. Watch him guys, he's trying to
lull you into a sense of
>false security.
>
Nah, I'm just trying
to get them to come out to the track.
I'll say or do anything to get some
company.
It's lonely out there. I have yet to see another Stealth/3000GT
on the
track with me, although I ALMOST got to run with Chuck Willis at
Heartland
Park last year. I get an Eclipse or a Talon as a stablemate on
rare
occasions, but that's about it.
If anybody in a 3000GT/Steath
comes out and is faster than me, I would be
ecstatic. It means there is
somebody I can learn from, whether it be
driving skill or equipment or
tuning. As it is, all I get are Mustang,
Porsche and BMW instructors who
don't really understand our cars.
Don't get me wrong, those instructors
were wonderful and got me to where I
am today. But I REALLY need help from
somebody who knows our cars. I need
to run with guys like Chuck and John and
Geoff and Jack T, who are much
faster than I am, so I can learn.
We
just need more folks out there period.
Rich/creaky old poop/94
VR4
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