team3s
Thursday, February 22
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
416
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:49:59 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbo questions
>When people are busy making all these
hybrids, wouldn't an analysis
>of our system give these turbo designers
exactly what they need to make a
>turbo that is perfect for street /track/
and drag uses? Just wondering what
>the problem is.
I highly
agree with you as most "designers" only put some stuff together
and tell us
"this will work great, believe me" ... and some do ! You are
also right that
the more air is squeezed through the heads the more heat is
produced ! in
fact there are formulas around that do show this.
Under the line,
ultra-large turbos may have a huge draw-back as one may end
in the surge
area what is pretty bad. As boost gets increased the more air
flows and
there is no limit in amount that flows. Just think of a water
hose where you
open the valve more and more and the water flows with the
pressure given. If
this pressure is increased more water flows until the
hose cannot handle the
pressure anymore and cracks (this reminds me to our
pistons and
gaskets).
The problem with big boost/flow is that the turbos may not be
able to
handle this and the pressure at the turbine is too big so it can be
pushing
back into the chamber. This is very bad and may cause huge
detonation.
Therefore, not only the compressor wheel but also the turbine
wheel should
be reworked. As an example, the GT368 I have use a larger wheel
and bored
out turbine housing what provides a better
flow.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:53:34
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Kick Back Problem
>I just purchased my 1994 VR-4 and I've
noticed that when I'm stopped at a
>sign/light or in traffic, and I shift
into first gear, that my car "kicks
>back" I guess you could
say.
Clutch or synchros.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:05:26
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Turbo Cool Down
>"way" to let my
turbos spool down and cool off. But in the discussion I
>noticed
various people saying it's not the greatest way at all, and that a
>much
better way to let your turbos spool/cool down is to "lazy drive" the
>car
and take it easy during the last couple of minutes before you reach
>your
destination.
Yes, this is true as the oil is cooled during driving as
well the engine.
> So my question is this, can anyone
define "lazy driving" for me? Does
> that mean keep the turbos at
no work (-10 psi), at no boost (0 psi) or
> its perfectly okay for them
to do some work (1+ psi) as long as they're
> not doing work the whole
way?
Lazy driving means to keep boost below -20 mmhg as then there is the
best
cool down provided.
The easist way is to get the Dual Turbo
Timer from Blitz as it reads the
pressure and increases/decreases the time
it runs after switching off (min
= 10 sec). When I'm commign home it never
reads more than 13 seconds unless
I was testdriving and reads 1 min 23 sec
then ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:08:21
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Supercharger hybrids
> Does
such exist, or has it been thought of for our cars?
No, also there ar
lots of drawbacks. Also check out the different design of
the 3s and
Porsches.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:12:56
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: trip to the dealership fruitless
Possible causes for such
problems :
- - bad accessories ECU (bad connection to it)
- - bad
ground
- - bad ... battery ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch > -power windows don't
operate
> -headlight doors remain up
> -windshield
Intermittent does not work (constant does however)
> -cd and tape
won't play - no sound from radio (fuse good)
> -fan blower works
only occasionally
> -idles a bit high (1050 in drive, ~1500
P/N)
> -actuating blinker causes the altemeter gauage needle to
slightly bounce
in response.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 06:17:49
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Kick Back Problem
Roger,
I had this problem on my 92
Stealth TT, and it would happen when putting the car in first or reverse, so
synchros would not be an accurate diagnosis.
The clutch could be the
problem, if it is not disengaging completely...another problem I have found to
be common with these cars. Both my 92 and 94 exhibit this behavior, but only the
92 had the "clunk" when putting the car into gear at a stop.
Dan
Jett
94 Stealth TT
>>> Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 2/22/01 5:53
AM >>>
>I just purchased my 1994 VR-4 and I've noticed that
when I'm stopped at a
>sign/light or in traffic, and I shift into first
gear, that my car "kicks
>back" I guess you could say.
Clutch or
synchros.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 07:19:20
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Kick Back Problem
My '94 VR4 has done this on two occasions. First
time the clucth was on its
way out. Even though it did not slip and
held power just fine, upon
disassembly (unrelated to clutch) it was clear
that the clutch was on its
last legs. The second time it did this was
due to a mal-adjusted linkage.
Proper asjustment cured the
problem.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Roger,
>
> I had this problem
on my 92 Stealth TT, and it would happen when
> putting the car in first
or reverse, so synchros would not be an
> accurate
diagnosis.
>
> The clutch could be the problem, if it is not
disengaging
> completely...another problem I have found to be common with
these
> cars. Both my 92 and 94 exhibit this behavior, but only the
92
> had the "clunk" when putting the car into gear at a
stop.
>
> Dan Jett
> 94 Stealth TT
>
>
>>> Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 2/22/01 5:53
AM >>>
>
> >I just purchased my 1994 VR-4 and I've
noticed that when I'm
> stopped at a
> >sign/light or in traffic,
and I shift into first gear, that my
> car "kicks
> >back" I
guess you could say.
>
> Clutch or synchros.
>
>
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 06:19:37
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods
Fortunately, ICs are a bit more useful in everyday
driving, or at
least in events that last more than 12 seconds (or 11 seconds
for the
gifted). :) But as Jack suggested, IC efficiency is rarely
measured,
so we in general just don't know how effective larger ICs are.
I
also, would put it low on the "performance-enhancing" mods
list,
especially considering the $2000-$4000 price.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Mods
<snip>
Faster does cost more, but oh my do some people
like spending money
for little to no gain...
Intercooler/s:
Useless...unless long track racing in which case I'll
allow they MAY help (no
data on that, just data that BIG/free flowing
SIDEmounts such as Alamo's or
HKS did NOT help my ET/MPH at dragstrip
AT ALL. MAYbe a frontmount
helps, but I sure didn't have them for
any of my records--they were all
through stock
intercoolers).
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 08:25:23
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My turbo failing??
Amplifying what Jeff said, there are
copper washers (two?) that go along
with that pan-head supply
connection. They are cheap and listed as
"non-reusable" parts in the
service manual. You could tourque it using an
appropriate-sized
crows-foot socket.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:39 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
>
> Hmmm, possibly just a leak in
the oil supply line (it's on top)? My
> supply line leaked at the
connection after the rebuild. I got in
> there with a flare-nut wrench (14
mm maybe?) and tightened it up (no
> easy way to use a torque wrench so be
careful), leak stopped. Mitsu
> does sell some parts that go in the
fitting that may save replacing
> the entire supply line if that is the
problem and tightening doesn't
> help.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: My turbo
failing??
>
> Will take a look in the morning just noticed it now.
But I'm just
> trying to figure out where all that sludge came from. Can't
think of
> any other place but the turbo. If it is, that can't be good,
can it?
> If it's just as bad inside, then it's safe to assume that
something's
> wrong with that turbo?
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:23 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
>
>
Aren't those pics of the outside of the rear IC pipe? What does the
>
inside look like?
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:15 PM
> Subject: Team3S: My turbo
failing??
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great
prices!
>
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> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 06:27:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbo questions
"What does a turbo that flows 800cfm each do
for me for our
application?"
IMHO, nothing. I think that turbos in the
400 to 500 cfm range (or
thereabouts) are ideal for our cars. Joe Gonsowski
has been doing
some interesting work evaluating turbos. You should take a
look at
his web page.
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/Turbos_Under_Investigation.htmlJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 1:39 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo
questions
Yah okay, my numbers were guesses from memory, but the
question still
remains and my 400 number was for all practical purposes the
max
number I remember seeing at redline cause thats what you need to
know
to be sure your turbo can flow that much,- right?. What does a
turbo
that flows 800cfm each do for me for our application?
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo
questions
>Whoa! Two different air flows! The stock heads flow
about 230 cfm
>each according to some old Team3S posts. The air the heads
flow is
>*compressed* (when there is boost at the plenum). The rated air
flow
>for turbos is *uncompressed* air that enters the turbos. When
the
air
>exits the turbo the volume is reduced and the temperature
and
density
>are increased (hopefully). Volume is further reduced when
the ICs
>lower the temperature (and increase the density) - but
hopefully
with
>little loss in pressure. At 7000 RPM, if the cylinders
were to
>completely fill with fresh charge (compressed or not), there
would
be
>about 367 cfm of air flow. At 8000 RPM and 100% VE that
number goes
>up to about 420 CFM.
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmhttp://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htmhttp://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htm>
>Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 08:44:24
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
Re-read Rich's post - you CAN
rotate the tires between sides by having them
demounted and remounted inboard
side/ outboard.
Looks like if the garage could not loosen your toe adjustment
bolts, then
they should have only charged you for 1/2 the alignment job.
Looks like they
didn't make much effort to get the two sides to be the same
either. Get some
penetrating oil and a big breaker bar extension or an impact
tool.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Khang Hoang
[
SMTP:khanghoang@e247.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:29 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
>
> First I'd like to
thank you all for replying. The problem is that there
> is a fix
such as elongate the mounting hole, bend/shorten the lower
> control arm
but to find someone to perform this fix is next to impossible
> in my
area. Dave, I've tried CDR Motorsport and suggested him the fix
>
listed above but he refused to do it. I've tried
> Firestone,
Pepboys, Avellinos Tires, NTB, backyard garages you name it ,
> to see if
they would perform this fix for me. They all say no. Now I
>
feel like buying a torch and do it myself!!! Firestone was able to
bring
> the front back to specs but not the rear. They
mentioned
> that my rear toe adjustment bolts froze so they couldn't
really adjust the
> toe. I asked them if they tried to heat it up
with a torch and they said
> it's too close to the gas tank thus it's not
safe to do so. I bet if they
> could break the toe adjustment bolts
loose, they could reduce my negative
> camber abit. Am I
right? I'm don't know much about the relationship
> between toe and
camber. By the way my car is 94 GT base
> with 18" aftermarket
rims. I guess -1.5 camber is not that serious but I
> prefer to stay
within specs. Also I think my tires are unidirectional so
> I can
only rotate front to back and vice versa but not cross like this
> pattern
"X" if you know what I mean. Well, thanks again
> Ken
>
>
This info is from the computer printout
>
>
LF
RF
> Actual
Range
Actual
Range
> -0.2 -.5 to
.5
Camber
-0.3 -0.5 to
0.5
>
.02 -.12 to
.12
Toe
-.03 -.12 to
.12
>
>
LR
RR
> Actual
Range
Actual
Range
> -1.2 -.5 to
.5 Camber
-1.6 -.5
to .5
> -.59 -.08 to
.12 Toe
-.85
-.08 to .12
>
>
>
>
>
> >Wasn't
there a trick to fix this? Something about "oval-ing" the
>
>mounting holes to get the camber closer to spec?
> >
>
>I am gonna lower mine within the next year or so, and this was the fix
I
> >was going to do. For a daily driver, -0.5 to -1.0 should be
the max you
> >need. With this much negative camber, excessive
wear should not be a
> >problem.
> >--
> >Marc J.
Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4
> >xDSL Hardware Development
> >Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
> >
> >***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.com> Send & receive
large files with 100MB of storage
>
> *** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 08:47:00
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Kick Back Problem
If you are at a dead
stop and you shift gears with the clutch in and the car
bucks, it sounds like
the clutch is not fully disengaged.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: John Stegall III [
SMTP:john.stegall@e247.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:57 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Kick Back Problem
>
> Okay,
after all the information I've been seeing go through this list in
> the
past week or so I've come up with a number of questions myself about
>
turbos and our cars; especially help in troubleshooting a problem with
my
> car, which I'll get to first. To keep it from being a long
email, I'll
> send my questions out in parts and hope I get
responses.
>
> I just purchased my 1994 VR-4 and I've noticed that
when I'm stopped at a
> sign/light or in traffic, and I shift into first
gear, that my car "kicks
> back" I guess you could say. It feels
almost as though someone hit the
> back of my car doing say maybe 5 miles
an hour. I never ran into this
> problem with my Talon TSi and
unfortunately I haven't managed to find a
> place I can reliably take my
car into and have it checked out that's
> within driving distance. I
live in San Bernardino county (california) and
> I know GT-Pro is in the
city of industry, but due to traffic its too much
> of a drive. I've
taken my car to be looked at by every Mitsu dealer
> within 50 miles of my
home and each of them has always told me various
> things are wrong with
the car. I'm not stupid, I may not know this car
> very well, but I
know cars quite well and I know when they're bull
> shitting me. So
I was wondering first if anyone can help me in diagnosing
> what this
"kick back" in my car is being caused by and!
> how I can fix
it?
>
> Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.com> Send & receive
large files with 100MB of storage
>
> *** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 07:18:55
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch issues... was "Kick Back Problem"
List,
Recent
posts regarding clutch disengagement issues have hit a nerve with me. Like I've
said in past posts, I have had problems with my clutch not fully disengaging on
both of my Stealths, and is something I have had to accept and live with for a
number of years.
I have had this problem on stock clutch/pressure plates
as well as on three Centerforces. It doesn't seem to be a wear issue, as most
recently I have been encoutering this problem with a clutch that is less than a
year old, with no aggresive launching, etc.
Any ideas on possible
contributors? (Clutch master/slave cylinder? Clutch fluids? Pressure plate
rating? Driveline play?) I would love to get to the bottom of this as I fear
going through my current clutch too quickly. I usually leave my car in first as
I idle at stoplights, and now I leave it in nuetral for fear of wearing down the
clutch...
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 09:50:53
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch issues... was "Kick Back Problem"
> Any ideas on
possible contributors? (Clutch master/slave cylinder?
> Clutch fluids?
Pressure plate rating? Driveline play?) I would love to
> get to the
bottom of this as I fear going through my current clutch
> too quickly. I
usually leave my car in first as I idle at stoplights,
> and now I leave
it in nuetral for fear of wearing down the clutch...
I have had the very
same problem for the last few months, and it is
not a problem with the
clutch disc or the pressure plate (these have
less than 5000 miles on them).
The clutch system has been
disengaging the clutch disc just fine when the
car is still cold. After
driving it for a while (say 30 minutes) I will
start to lose clutch
system pressure and it becomes very difficult to shift.
One night I
even had the clutch pedal to the floor with it in 1st gear and
the car
still moved !
My slave cylinder is leaking clutch fluid
(collecting in a puddle on
top of the transaxle), so I'll be putting in a
new master and slave
next week. When I was at the dealer ordering the parts
my service
manager friend even admitted that this is a very common problem
with the 3/s (slave going bad, difficulty shifting, etc), but he rarely
sees it in any of mitsubishi's other cars.
Walton C.
Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 10:23:22
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch issues... was "Kick Back Problem"
Dan,
I am
installing an after market slave cylinder that is larger and
more aggressive.
If that doesn't work we are going to extend the clutch rod
for more push.
Hope to have the new slave cylinder in Fri 23Feb01. Will let
you know how it
goes.
Wish me luck.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-----------------------------------------------
Recent posts regarding
clutch disengagement issues have hit a nerve with me.
Like I've said in past
posts, I have had problems with my clutch not fully
disengaging on both of my
Stealths, and is something I have had to accept
and live with for a number of
years.
I have had this problem on stock clutch/pressure plates as well as
on three
Centerforces. It doesn't seem to be a wear issue, as most recently I
have
been encoutering this problem with a clutch that is less than a year
old,
with no aggresive launching, etc.
Any ideas on possible
contributors? (Clutch master/slave cylinder? Clutch
fluids? Pressure plate
rating? Driveline play?) I would love to get to the
bottom of this as I fear
going through my current clutch too quickly. I
usually leave my car in first
as I idle at stoplights, and now I leave it in
nuetral for fear of wearing
down the clutch...
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 09:42:43
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Kick Back Problem
As always, I'm the last to reply, one of
the drawbacks for living on the West
Coast ;). Anyway as many have
already mentioned, the problem you are having is
"clutch drag", that is the
clutch is not fully disengaging. Thus when you
shift, you hear and feel
the slack being removed from the drivetrain. I too
have experienced
this problem for years. I've adjusted the clutch pedal,
replaced the
clutch master cylinder, the slave cylinder, and installed 2 slave
cylinder
rebuild kits. Usually after repairing/bleeding the system, the
clutch
would feel fine for a week or two, then the symptoms would return
again. Also,
I have been blowing out the slave cylinder seals about
every 12-13 months. The
last time was a couple of months
ago.
Anyway, it's possible I may have found the culprit -- BRAKE
FLUID. For the last
few years, I have been using Valvoline Synthetic
Brake Fluid for my clutch and
brake systems. After so many slave
cylinder seal failures, I began to suspect
that this fluid might somehow be
causing the seals to prematurely degrade. So
last December when my
slave seal failed last, I rebuilt the slave cylinder, but
I used the highly
recommended Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake Fluid that Rich Merrit
is always
touting as the best bargain ($3.50/pint) in high performance
brake
fluid. I flushed/bled the system with the Ford fluid, and the
clutch release
has been great ever since, well over two months now.
I
would definitely try this first, since it is very inexpensive. Next, I
would
try to adjust the clutch since this is free.
If you need help,
let me know. I will be in San Berdo this weekend, or Sunday
at
least.
Good luck,
Ken
** PS ** Since you are new to the list,
you will no doubt be happy to hear that
there are some Mitsu dealers that
offer very good discounts on OEM parts to list
members. One happens to
be Norco Mitsubishi, right in your backyard. A slave
cylinder rebuild
kit should cost about $8.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be
home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion
Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:52:18
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Re: Kick Back Problem
::Chuckles:: Hey, I'm not always last
to reply and I live on the west coast. The west coast is the best!
Unfortunately this weekend will be difficult, as I'm moving and will be doing
such probably the whole weekend. But I appreciate the offer to help me
out. I'll have to go down and buy some of that Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake
Fluid and do the clutch adjustments at the same time. Thanks for the
advice.
As far as being new to the list, actually I've been part of the
list for about a year now. However, it was only a week ago that I
purchased my VR-4. I owned a base model 97 3000GT and all I could ever do
was read about what everyone was saying because little of it was relevant to
base model (or even an SL) car. But now that I own a VR-4 (practically my
dream car) I'm getting much more active on the list.
One thing I'm very
surprised to hear was your trust in the dealerships here in the area.
During the year I owned my 97 3000GT, which I purchased from Norco Mitsubishi,
they tried to rip me off at least 5 or 6 times. I never tried to purchase
just parts, but getting any kind of work done there and they always claimed
different things were going to fail or already broken (which of course I checked
out and found to be complete BS). I've found that all of them are that way
actually - Norco Mits, Riverside, Pomona/Dynamic, Anaheim... all have tried to
rip me off on my car. I'm thankful however that GT Pro is also right in my
backyard... as long as there's no traffic.
I've made this email long
enough... thanks for the advice though. I'll have to try doing all that
stuff hopefully friday or sometime soon.
John Stegall
1994 3000GT
VR-4
Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.comSend & receive large
files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 09:57:35
-0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SMC Alky kit group buy....
Hi All.. if anyone is
interested..
Here's the link for more info on the kit:
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.htmlHere's
the link for group buy:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=1ead83de3115cac6f2a04769f91c278d&threadid=21993Thanks,
George
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 10:09:33
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
Remember that Ford DOT 3
Heavy Duty Brake Fluid has a DOT 3-rated wet
boiling point of only 290ºF. The
cheap price and high dry BP of 550ºF
makes this fluid attractive for track
use. But its tendency to absorb
water (very low wet BP) makes it a poor
choice for street use unless
you change fluid often. For only $2.50 more per
liter ($8.50 vs.
$6.00) you can have Ate Super Blue brake fluid with a wet BP
of 392ºF
and dry BP of 536ºF.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Stegall III" <
john.stegall@e247.com>
To: "Ken
Middaugh" <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Re: Kick Back
Problem
<snip>
I'll have to go down and buy some of that Ford
DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake
Fluid and do the clutch adjustments at the same
time.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 10:12:00
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SMC Alky kit group buy....
Is anyone currently using this
system? Where do you put that big bottle?
> Hi All.. if anyone
is interested..
>
> Here's the link for more info on the
kit:
>
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html>
> Here's the link for group buy:
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=1ead83de3115cac6f2a04769f91c278d&threadid=21993-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:40:48
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Re: Kick Back Problem
[Willis, Charles E.] " One
thing I'm very surprised to hear was
your trust in the dealerships here in
the area. During the year I owned my
97 3000GT, which I purchased from
Norco Mitsubishi, they tried to rip me off
at least 5 or 6 times. I
never tried to purchase just parts, but getting
any kind of work done there
and they always claimed different things were
going to fail or already broken
(which of course I checked out and found to
be complete BS). I've found
that all of them are that way actually - Norco
Mits, Riverside,
Pomona/Dynamic, Anaheim... all have tried to rip me off on
my car. I'm
thankful however that GT Pro is also right in my backyard... as
long as
there's no traffic. [Willis, Charles E.] "
I think it's real
important to understand that the parts and service
operations at most
dealerships are independent profit centers. The
management of these two
operations is often very different. I purchase
parts almost exclusively
from one local dealer, but I would not have an oil
change performed in their
shop.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:33:53
-0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Stealth and 3000GT production numbers
Mike,
This (
mreid@magma.ca) email address still didn't work
for me. Our
server might be messed up.
Michael Reid
wrote:
>
> I don't have a good idea yet what those
>
option and interior codes mean. Perhaps you could tell me what you
> have
like leather/cloth, sunroof, and any other factory options ?
>
I
have black leather interior, 6 disc CD changer, infinity stereo,
manual
sunroof, front floormats, climate control. Exterior has 4WS,
ECS,
Active Aero - the usuals.
The code could be for leather color. I
have seen brown(tan) and black
interiors in the Black VR-4s.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:48:35
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
Is low boiling point
really a problem for clutch hydrallic fluid?
Again, how much exposure to
water does the clutch fluid get in a closed
system?
Your points are
absolutely correct for brake fluid, which reaches high
temperatures and gets
saturated with water from the air of several months.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:10 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
>
> Remember
that Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake Fluid has a DOT 3-rated wet
> boiling
point of only 290ºF. The cheap price and high dry BP of 550ºF
> makes this
fluid attractive for track use. But its tendency to absorb
> water (very
low wet BP) makes it a poor choice for street use unless
> you change
fluid often. For only $2.50 more per liter ($8.50 vs.
> $6.00) you can
have Ate Super Blue brake fluid with a wet BP of 392ºF
> and dry BP of
536ºF.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "John Stegall III" <
john.stegall@e247.com>
> To:
"Ken Middaugh" <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:52 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Re: Re: Kick
Back Problem
>
> <snip>
> I'll have to go down and buy
some of that Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake
> Fluid and do the clutch
adjustments at the same time.
> <snip>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great
prices!
>
http://auctions.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:54:50
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> Is low boiling point
really a problem for clutch hydrallic fluid?
The clutch line and slave
cylinder are both close to the engine
block. How hot does the space back
there get during reasonable
driving? Would this have any effect on different
clutch fluids?
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:05:29
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
The clutch hydraulic
system is "closed" in the same way that the
brake hydraulic system is. Also,
the clutch hydraulic fluid is
probably less likely to get changed as often
the brake fluid by most
people. I mean for $2.00 (per liter) why not buy
better? It takes
perhaps 4 oz. to flush and change the clutch
fluid.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-clutchbleeding.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was:
Kick Back Problem)
Is low boiling point really a problem for clutch
hydrallic fluid?
Again, how much exposure to water does the clutch fluid
get in a
closed system?
Your points are absolutely correct for brake
fluid, which reaches
high
temperatures and gets saturated with water from
the air of
several
months.
Chuck
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:20:09
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> The clutch
hydraulic system is "closed" in the same way that the
> brake hydraulic
system is. Also, the clutch hydraulic fluid is
> probably less likely to
get changed as often the brake fluid by most
> people. I mean for $2.00
(per liter) why not buy better? It takes
> perhaps 4 oz. to flush and
change the clutch fluid.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-clutchbleeding.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:15:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> Is low boiling
point really a problem for clutch hydraulic fluid?
It is not the boiling
point, per se, in this case. It is the fact
that a low BP indicates a higher
propensity to absorb water.
FWIW, I am using the Safeway $2.50/bottle DOT
3 brake fluid in my
clutch hydraulic system. It was the easiest available
after my clutch
hose developed a pin-prick size hole. I examined the area
with a 20x
hand lens and could find no sign of external damage or wear to
the
hose. The damn thing just sprung a leak. I will be putting Ate
Super
Blue in it soon when I use the same to flush and replace my
brake
fluid.
PS. It is kinda fun to ride in a tow truck with your car
on a flat
bed in back.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:33:15
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
Jeff,
I am pretty
cheap myself, but you are right about $2.00 if the issue is
quality.
But, the original post was ascribing repeated clutch seal problems
to the
higher DOT grade fluid. Sometimes more exotic brake fluids are
also
more aggressive solvents. Maybe this is a problem with the
seals in the
clutch hydrallic system. I know I now use exam gloves when
I work with my
brake fluid, because Motul seems to go right through my
skin!
I think there is better access to the brake system by humidity
because there
is more surface area of wet seals, the reservoir top is vented,
and I
believe there are greater temperature variations in the brake
fluid.
Somebody pointed out the location of the slave cylinder in the
engine
compartment and the master cylinder, but I still believe that
these
locations are cooler than direct contact with the brake calipers
perhaps by
a couple of hundred degrees.
How much evidence of water
corrosion do you guys see when you rebuild the
clutch slave cylinders?
I know the brake caliper pistons frequently show
internal corrosion.
Chuck
(I'd ask you guys to correct me if I'm wrong, but I know
you will without
any invitation!)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 2:05 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
>
> The
clutch hydraulic system is "closed" in the same way that the
> brake
hydraulic system is. Also, the clutch hydraulic fluid is
> probably less
likely to get changed as often the brake fluid by most
> people. I mean
for $2.00 (per liter) why not buy better? It takes
> perhaps 4 oz. to
flush and change the clutch fluid.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-clutchbleeding.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:07:15
-0500 (EST)
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Rear Camber problem th GC
Khang,
My brother lowered his 94 TT too
wit the Eichback Pro Springs (I think),
and his front is within speck but his
rear cambers are @ -1.5 deg. My
question about dismounting the tires
off the rims and then remounting them
on the opposite rim is:
Does
this not hurt the tires (rubbers)? I saw how the guys dismount
the
tires, and they are not that careful. If the inner lip of the tire
(that
seals up against the rim) gets damaged, would that not be a potential
for
a tire failure? About halfway through the tires lives (10k-15K and
1-2
years later) the ruber is old and prone to damage when dismounted.
Just a
thought. Maybe it works for Rich Meritt because he goes through
his tires
much quicker (estimating here --> 1 summer season).
I
wonder what Meritt thinks?
Just a thought. It's something my
brother is considering to do unless he
can get his allignment shop to do the
"dril;l and washer idea" to bring
the car back into speck.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001
02:48:14 +0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: Khang Hoang <
khanghoang@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
Just lowered my car with GC and now my
rear camber are at -1.5 degree. Is
there a fix for this? Do they
sell camber kit for the rear?
If there is a fix anyone knows one in
Washington DC area who would
do it
?
Thank
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:16:10
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch issues... was "Kick Back Problem"
Hi all
I am
installing an after market slave cylinder that is larger and
>more
aggressive.
Won't a larger slave cylinder give you less travel?
If
that doesn't work we are going to extend the clutch rod
>for more
push.
I don't think that will work either.
I think you need to find
the original problem rather than just modify it.
Stava
Cooper
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:23:06
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Rear Camber problem th GC
Actually, if the tire dismount
is done properly, it is an opportunity to
clean, reseat, and rebalance the
tire to compensate for wear. Discount Tire
does this for me. I'd
encourage you to develop a close relationship with a
reputable tire
dealer. I am also pretty compulsive about maintaining my
tires,
including correct air pressures, especially before highway trips,
and
frequent cleaning. I put tire shine products on the sidewalls of my
street
tires, and all over my track tires (and bag them) between
events. I believe
that the silicon products extent the life of the
rubber.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mihai
Raicu [
SMTP:aa2345@wayne.edu]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 3:07 PM
> To:
khanghoang@e247.com; Rich RMerritt
>
Cc: Team 3S International
> Subject: Team3S: RE: Rear Camber problem th
GC
>
> Khang,
>
> My brother lowered his 94 TT too wit
the Eichback Pro Springs (I think),
> and his front is within speck but
his rear cambers are @ -1.5 deg. My
> question about dismounting the
tires off the rims and then remounting them
> on the opposite rim
is:
>
> Does this not hurt the tires (rubbers)? I saw how the
guys dismount the
> tires, and they are not that careful. If the
inner lip of the tire (that
> seals up against the rim) gets damaged,
would that not be a potential for
> a tire failure? About halfway
through the tires lives (10k-15K and 1-2
> years later) the ruber is old
and prone to damage when dismounted. Just a
> thought. Maybe
it works for Rich Meritt because he goes through his tires
> much quicker
(estimating here --> 1 summer season).
>
> I wonder what Meritt
thinks?
>
> Just a thought. It's something my brother is
considering to do unless he
> can get his allignment shop to do the
"dril;l and washer idea" to bring
> the car back into speck.
>
> -MIKE-
> 95 Red VR4
> Detroit Metro Area, MI
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:35:03
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
All DOT 3 and DOT 4
fluids are polyglycol-based and mix freely with
each other. The high-end
brake fluids I list on my brake page are
actually DOT 4 fluids
(chemistry-wise) with DOT 5.1 performance
standards or DOT 5.1 (which mixes
freely with DOT 3 or DOT 4).
Perhaps the "synthetic" fluid referred to (in
that post) that caused
problems was a silicone-based DOT 5.
Old
Chinese proverb: "Only fool use DOT 5". :)
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 22, 2001 1:33 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was:
Kick Back Problem)
<snip>
But, the original post was ascribing
repeated clutch seal problems to
the higher DOT grade fluid.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:36:59
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Rear Camber problem th GC
>a tire failure? About
halfway through the tires lives (10k-15K and 1-2
>years later) the ruber
is old and prone to damage when dismounted. Just a
>thought.
Maybe it works for Rich Meritt because he goes through his tires
>much
quicker (estimating here --> 1 summer season).
>
>I wonder what
Meritt thinks?
I don't swap tires on wheels because (a) I rotate the race
tires front to
rear and side to side all weekend at the track, and (b) they
are only good
for 4 or 5 track events anyway, and (c) I haven't seen any wear
on my
street Michelin Pilots, so I don't worry about it.
I run
radical camber (-2.5 up front and -1.5 in the rear) but my Kumhos
wear
evenly, so it has not been a problem for me. At one point, I was
thinking
about swapping the Kuhmos on the wheels because I expected to get
severe wear
on the outside edges, but careful measurements and observation
revealed that
the tires wore evenly. Maybe it was all the rotating and
swapping trackside
that did it. (Getting the Kuhmos shaved helped
immensely!!! I couldn't
believe it!! This is not for street tires, of course)
Also, I get all my
tire work done at the local Tires Plus because they have
one guy who really
knows his way around wide tires and alloy wheels.
With our cars, it is
VITAL to find people who know WTF they are doing. I
have been very fortunate
to find, here in Cedar Rapids, a good wheel/tire
guy, an excellent alignment
shop, a great brake and suspension shop, and
even a good Mitsu dealer. I wish
you folks find the same, because it makes
living with our cars much more
pleasant.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:39:00
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
>
>Old Chinese
proverb: "Only fool use DOT 5". :)
Older Chinese proverb:
"Man with two wristwatches never know what time it
is."
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:55:24
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> How much evidence
of water corrosion do you guys see when you rebuild the
> clutch slave
cylinders? I know the brake caliper pistons frequently show
>
internal corrosion.
I didn't notice any corrosion when I replaced the
slave or master cylinders, nor
when I rebuilt the slave twice. Only
once did I see any wear, and that was a
hole in the slave cylinder seal a
year after I installed the new slave
cylinder. The seals that came out
from the last two rebuilds 'looked' fine
although they weren't holding
pressure properly, i.e. there was fluid in the
slave cylinder boot.
-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:02:25
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> Perhaps the
"synthetic" fluid referred to (in that post) that caused
> problems was a
silicone-based DOT 5.
Sorry I forgot to indicate that in the original
post. The Valvoline Synthetic
is a DOT 4 fluid. What originally
attracted me to it was the high dry boiling
point, in the mid 500's F, as
well as the price, ~$4 a quart.
BTW, it has been fine for the
brakes. I do bleed once a year though, and before
track events.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:48:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> and dry BP of
536ºF.
- ---
Ive boiled that fluid in the Celica on the track
*heh*
Motul600 fixed me up finally..now I just need larger
brakes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:49:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
Its not a closed
system...ahhh..
The caps vent air in and out of the cyler
tanks.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> Is low
boiling point really a problem for clutch hydrallic fluid?
>
>
Again, how much exposure to water does the clutch fluid get in a closed
>
system?
>
> Your points are absolutely correct for brake fluid,
which reaches high
> temperatures and gets saturated with water from the
air of several months.
>
> Chuck
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:10 PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
> >
> >
Remember that Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake Fluid has a DOT 3-rated wet
>
> boiling point of only 290ºF. The cheap price and high dry BP of
550ºF
> > makes this fluid attractive for track use. But its tendency
to absorb
> > water (very low wet BP) makes it a poor choice for street
use unless
> > you change fluid often. For only $2.50 more per liter
($8.50 vs.
> > $6.00) you can have Ate Super Blue brake fluid with a
wet BP of 392ºF
> > and dry BP of 536ºF.
> >
> >
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htm>
>
> > Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Stegall III" <
john.stegall@e247.com>
> >
To: "Ken Middaugh" <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
> Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:52 AM
> > Subject: Team3S:
Re: Re: Kick Back Problem
> >
> > <snip>
> >
I'll have to go down and buy some of that Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty Brake
>
> Fluid and do the clutch adjustments at the same time.
> >
<snip>
> >
> >
__________________________________________________
> > Do You
Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great
prices!
> >
http://auctions.yahoo.com/> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:46:33
EST
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Car out of storage. Tip?
-
--part1_af.77f5e8e.27c70ce9_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I'm just about to
take my car out of storage. It has been there since the
first snow
fall. Before I but it away all I did was top off the tank,
disconnect
the (-) battery terminal, and start it up about every two weeks
for about 10
minutes. Is there anything that I should do when I take it out?
Change any fluids, or anything mechanical. I know I was supposed
to take
off the tires, but I didn't since I'm getting new ones and heard
somewhere
that it's better to keep the suspension compressed.
Thanks for
any input.
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
-
--part1_af.77f5e8e.27c70ce9_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>I'm just about to take my car out of storage. It has been
there since the
<BR>first snow fall. Before I but it away
all I did was top off the tank,
<BR>disconnect the (-) battery
terminal, and start it up about every two weeks
<BR>for about 10
minutes. Is there anything that I should do when I take it out?
<BR> Change any fluids, or anything mechanical. I
know I was supposed to take
<BR>off the tires, but I didn't since I'm
getting new ones and heard somewhere
<BR>that it's better to keep the
suspension compressed.
<BR>Thanks for any
input.
<BR>Chris
<BR>1992 Dodge Stealth
ES</FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_af.77f5e8e.27c70ce9_boundary--
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:55:04
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
I tried that in the RX7
in a pinch once.
huge mistake on the track..drove the car 400 miles and
got one half-asses
session out of it. Brake fluid just went to
heck...and came out black
when we bled it the following week.
On Thu,
22 Feb 2001, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > Perhaps the "synthetic" fluid
referred to (in that post) that caused
> > problems was a
silicone-based DOT 5.
>
> Sorry I forgot to indicate that in the
original post. The Valvoline Synthetic
> is a DOT 4 fluid.
What originally attracted me to it was the high dry boiling
> point, in
the mid 500's F, as well as the price, ~$4 a quart.
>
> BTW, it has
been fine for the brakes. I do bleed once a year though, and
before
> track events.
> --
> If you lived in your car, you'd
be home by now.
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General
Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 18:57:02
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Fluid (was: Kick Back Problem)
>huge mistake on the
track..drove the car 400 miles and got one half-asses
>session out of
it. Brake fluid just went to heck...and came out black
>when we bled
it the following week.
>
Old Chinese proverb: "Always bleed brakes
BEFORE an event, grasshopper."
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#416
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