team3s
Thursday, February 22
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
415
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:20:51 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
We had an interesting thread
about negative camber and specs a couple of
weeks ago.
- -1.5 degrees
might be outside of spec (?-0.5 degrees max?), but it doesn't
"sound"
excessive to me.
How much did you lower the car from stock? Part
of my problem being
concerned is that we lower our cars for the track and
then raise them for
the street. We are not seeing unusual tire wear
patterns in either
application.
What is the front wheel camber
measurement?
I'm assuming this is a VR4 with 18" wheels.
All tires
are expensive nowadays!
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Khang Hoang [
SMTP:khanghoang@e247.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:07 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
Willis, Charles E.
> Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th
GC
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong but I have heard that
excessive camber
> will wear your tires more quickly. Am I correct?
I lowered the car cuz I
> want to get rid of the big gap between the wheel
and fender lip but still
> want to be able put a lots of miles on my
tires. 18" tires are expensive
> nowaday :-0
> Thanks
>
Ken
>
> >So what's wrong with that? Negative camber is
good!
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >>
From: Khang Hoang [
SMTP:khanghoang@e247.com]
>
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 8:48 PM
> >> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>> Subject: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
> >>
>
>> Just lowered my car with GC and now my rear camber are at -1.5
degree.
> Is
> >> there a fix for this? Do they sell
camber kit for the rear?
> >> If there is a fix anyone knows one in
Washington DC area who would
> >> do it ?
> >>
Thank
> >> Ken
> >>
> >> Get your free
e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.com>
>> Send & receive large files with 100MB of storage
> >>
> >> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.com> Send & receive
large files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 16:45:43
-0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
Wasn't there a trick to fix
this? Something about "oval-ing" the
mounting holes to get the camber
closer to spec?
I am gonna lower mine within the next year or so,
and this was the fix I
was going to do. For a daily driver, -0.5 to
-1.0 should be the max you
need. With this much negative camber,
excessive wear should not be a
problem.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94
VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:13:31
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Will '93 VR4 exhaust fit on '94 VR4?
My Stillen pipe says
91-99 VR-4 on it and has different sets of bolt holes
in the flanges for the
"differences" in model year.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
'xwing@execpc.com' <
xwing@execpc.com>; Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Will '93 VR4
exhaust fit on '94 VR4?
>I don't even remember how much of the
exhaust system I've got in the garage
>- I think it is only the dual
tailpipe section, so the down pipes would
>remain in place. Maybe if
I'm lucky, the part that was cut will allow me
to
>install a
telescoping section of tubing to properly adjust the length.
>Else, I
guess I get to cut it again. These things are stainless steel,
so
I
>don't think I'll be welding anything. I'm thinking of just
clamping stuff
>together. Think it'll
work?
>
>Chuck
>
>> -----Original
Message-----
>> From: xwing [
SMTP:xwing@execpc.com]
>> Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:45 AM
>> To: Team3S
>>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Will '93 VR4 exhaust fit on '94
VR4?
>>
>> The downpipes are different between 1st (5 speed)
and 2nd (6 speed)
>> generations,
>>
>> and can't
QUITE fit a 1st gen downpipe on a 2nd gen. properly...
>> and I THINK
the length of the downpipe going back toward rear of car may
>>
be
>> different too, so you may have a gap (or too much pipe) mating up
to the
>> downpipe.
>> JT
>>
>> "Willis,
Charles E." wrote:
>>
>> > Anybody out there know if the
1st generation VR4 exhaust will fit on
the
>> 2nd
>> >
generation VR4? My '94 has this aftermarket exhaust with a
12"
>> diameter
>> > resonator
>> > and a 4"
diameter tailpipe.
>> > Chuck
Willis
>>
>>
>> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:15:19
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: My turbo failing??
I posted not too long ago about some problems
I was having with overboost.
Well I've discovered that overboost only happens
in 3rd and 4th gear. It'll
spike a little over 1.00bar, then drop to about
.3bar and hold there.
However in the lower gears it'll never overboost, and
it'll peak at .4bar
then hold a .3bar. I remember that it didn't used to
that. The needle never
dropped under .5bar while under boost even in the
lower gears.
So anyway I started playing with the thought that one of my
turbos' might be
going south. Pulled of the two hoses that connect to the
Y-pipe and found a
little oil in there. Then when I looked at the rear turbo,
I noticed that
there was some oil sludge around the compressor outlet. Here
are links to
some pics I took of it. Take a look and tell me what you
think.
http://www.3000gtvr4.net/images/tech/turbo_fail1.jpghttp://www.3000gtvr4.net/images/tech/turbo_fail2.jpghttp://www.3000gtvr4.net/images/tech/turbo_fail3.jpgThanks
in advance to all replies,
Michael Bulaon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:23:08
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
Aren't those pics of the outside of the
rear IC pipe? What does the
inside look like?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: My turbo
failing??
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:26:16
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My turbo failing??
Will take a look in the morning just
noticed it now. But I'm just trying to
figure out where all that sludge came
from. Can't think of any other place
but the turbo. If it is, that can't be
good, can it? If it's just as bad
inside, then it's safe to assume that
something's wrong with that turbo?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:23 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
Aren't those pics
of the outside of the rear IC pipe? What does the
inside look
like?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: My turbo
failing??
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:32:12
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo questions
After hearing everyone talk about reading Corky
Bells book 'Max Boost', I
actually did so. In it it clearly explains
the practical method of choosing
turbos for an app. with some quicky formulas
for figuring out A/R P/R and
cfm ratings. It shows how to read the flow
maps etc. My question is this.
I once read that our heads flow about
400cfm (each?). If thats the max our
heads can flow, anymore from a
turbo would be wasted unless we could rev
much higher then 7400rpm.
Also, 15psi is about all one can push with a CR
of 8:1 and 93 octane.
So, after pressure losses through the system, we need
a turbo that flows at
least 18 psi to redline in its efficiency Island and
can pump 400 or so
cfm. Now heres the question. If the turbos available to
bolt on
(no mod) leaves us with the stock turbo exhaust housing meant for a
lower
flowing compressor (cold side), but we increase the compressor side to
say a
17g wheel, aren't we losing power by trying to squeeze more air
through this
small orifice creating more heat? Can this exhaust side be
fixed by
porting? Is this already done on say a 357 magnum or
similar
turbo? When people are busy making all these hybrids, wouldn't
an analysis
of our system give these turbo designers exactly what they need
to make a
turbo that is perfect for street /track/ and drag uses? Just
wondering what
the problem is.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 9:46 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber problem
th GC
>Wasn't there a trick to fix this? Something about
"oval-ing" the
>mounting holes to get the camber closer to
spec?
>
>I am gonna lower mine within the next year or so, and this
was the fix I
>was going to do. For a daily driver, -0.5 to -1.0
should be the max you
>need. With this much negative camber,
excessive wear should not be a
>problem.
>--
>Marc J. Jacobs
Blue '94 VR-4
>xDSL Hardware Development
>Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:38:49
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
Hmmm, possibly just a leak in the oil
supply line (it's on top)? My
supply line leaked at the connection after the
rebuild. I got in
there with a flare-nut wrench (14 mm maybe?) and tightened
it up (no
easy way to use a torque wrench so be careful), leak stopped.
Mitsu
does sell some parts that go in the fitting that may save
replacing
the entire supply line if that is the problem and tightening
doesn't
help.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: My turbo
failing??
Will take a look in the morning just noticed it now. But I'm
just
trying to figure out where all that sludge came from. Can't think
of
any other place but the turbo. If it is, that can't be good, can it?
If
it's just as bad inside, then it's safe to assume that something's
wrong with
that turbo?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:23 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
Aren't those pics of
the outside of the rear IC pipe? What does the
inside look like?
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: My turbo
failing??
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:38:08
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth
and 3000GT production numbers/Paint Codes...
>I was wondering if you
could do the same for my car.
I've replied off list.
>I am
looking forward to knowing exactly how "rare" my car is.
Common question.
I'll post the Windows utilities and their source code
on a website within the
next week or so, so others can make ad-hoc queries.
>It would be
cool to make a website that the user could enter the VIN,
>and it would
extract this data for the user automatically.
Yes, but website CGI
scripts etc. are a hassle. The utilities and CAPS will
work for anyone really
interested in ad-hoc queries, and a bunch of web-pages
could list VINs and
their data for those who just need to query for 1 car.
All the 3S VIN
data (~153,000 cars) could take as little as 8-9 Megabytes
and should
probably be split up for casual web access. I wonder if there are
any privacy
or data ownership problems here though. I don't want Mitsu
to
demand
removal of the CAPS program or this program from the
website...
Regarding the possible automatic transmission Stealth
TT's:
Someone ran the VIN's through CarFax and neither appears to
have
ever been sold. I'm almost certain these were pre-production
models
of some sort.
Regarding the "Stealthily" invisible 95
Stealth Turbos's:
It appears these DO exist, with proper 95 VIN codes,
but not one
of them appears in Mitsu's CAPS database. I did a "Missing
VIN"
analysis and found that 550 more VINs than usual were missing
for 95.
So I suspect that about 550 1995 Stealth Turbo's were
produced, but Mitsu
lost the data or never entered their VINs.
I also found that some 3500
VINs are missing from 1991, and
about 561 VINs are missing from 97. All other
years have normal
levels of missing VINs, usually within the first 100. Ahh,
the
horrors of incomplete and partly mangled data... :)
Exterior
Paint Color Codes:
The Mitsu option codes and interior codes still remain
a mystery,
but the exterior paint color code analysis is underway.
Perhaps
someone could help some with these paint codes in the
database:
Some of these color code names are a guess, if you see an
error
please send me private email (
mreid@magma.ca ). Note that most
of these
codes are different than the codes you may find elsewhere,
such as the sales
order forms or the codes I've seen posted from
the manual/CD. Some codes seem
related, like "RA8" and "R38" for red.
I've only looked at the TT and
VR-4 codes yet.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
91 Stealth TT colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Firestorm
Red RA8 1048
Jet
Black
XA4 698
Pearl
White? WA5
748
Bright Blue?
TA7
235
Fiji Blue Metallic ?
Light Beige?
SA2
40
Wheat Beige Metallic
?
Red?
RA5
154
Kutani Red Pearl
?
Turquoise?
TA2
93
Napier Blue Metallic ?
-
----------------------------------
All
3016
92 Stealth TT colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Firestorm
Red RA8 1319
Jet
Black
XA4 753
Pearl
White? WA5
951
Emerald Green? GA4
763 New for 92
Bright
Blue? TA7
327
Fiji Blue Metallic ?
Light Beige?
SA2
242
Wheat Beige Metallic ?
-
----------------------------------
All
4355
93 Stealth TT colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
RA1 353
New for 93 ?
Jet
Black
XA4
208
White?
WA9 228
New for 93 ?
Emerald Green?
GA4 293
Pearl
Blue?
BA4 135
New for 93 ?
Dark Blue Pearl? HA8
82 New for 93 ?
-
----------------------------------
All
1299
94 Stealth TT colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71 184
Jet
Black
X94
119
Lamp Black
Brilliant White? W29
138
(Includes
JB3AN74K6RY000029 MQGFL2D)
Emerald Green
Pearl?G84 170
Dark Blue Pearl?
H28 43
Pearl
Yellow? Y99
235
(Includes
JB3AN74K6RY000028 MQGFL7D
Pearl
Blue?
B34 35
-
----------------------------------
All
924
96 Stealth TT colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71 19
Greyish White
Pearl?W75
17
Galaxy White Pearl
Emerald Green Pearl?G84
8
?
L79
6
Amethyst?
A26
3
Dodge Exclusive 96
color
?
Amethyst?
P82 4
-
----------------------------------
All
57
91 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Firestorm
Red RA8 1242
Jet
Black
XA4 684
Pearl
White? WA5
760
Bright Blue?
TA7
214
Fiji Blue Metallic ?
Light Beige?
SA2
81
Wheat Beige Metallic
?
Red?
RA5
293
Kutani Red Pearl
?
Turquoise?
TA2
129
Napier Blue Metallic
?
Red?
R25
1
Black?
X94
1
?
W2D
1
?
R38
1
?
S22
1
Unknown
? 285 Color Data is missing
-
----------------------------------
All
3693
92 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Firestorm
Red RA8 1478
Jet
Black
XA2 787
Pearl
White? WA5
983
Emerald Green? GA4
460 New for 92
Bright
Blue? TA7
214
Fiji Blue Metallic
?
Red?
RA5
344
Kutani Red Pearl
?
?
HA4
294
?
HA9 387
-
----------------------------------
All
4947
93 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
RA1 868
New for 93 ?
Jet
Black
XA2
398
White?
WA9 504
New for 93 ?
Emerald Green?
GA4
566
Red?
RA5
122
Kutani Red Pearl ?
Dark Blue Pearl?
HA9 136
New for 93 ?
Firestorm Red
RA8 1
-
----------------------------------
All
2595
94 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71 383
Jet
Black
X94 264
Brilliant White?
W29 315
Emerald Green
Pearl?G84 339
Pearl
Blue?
B34
126
Amethyst?
P03 68
Pearl
Yellow? Y99 155
-
----------------------------------
All
1650
95 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71 409
Jet
Black
X94
280
White?
W75
276
Galaxy White Pearl
Emerald Green Pearl?G84
200
Pearl Blue?
B34
49
Amethyst?
P03 55
Pearl
Yellow? Y99 42
-
----------------------------------
All
1311
96 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71
90
Black?
X08
71
White?
W75
76
Galaxy White Pearl
Emerald Green Pearl?G84
50
Pearl Blue?
B34
7
?
L79
1
Amethyst?
P82
19
Unknown
? 1 Color Data is missing
-
----------------------------------
All
315
97 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71
166
Black?
X08
150
White?
W75
110
Galaxy White
Pearl
Green?
G84
71
?
L79 9
Pearl
Blue?
B34 4
-
----------------------------------
All
510
98 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71
70
Black?
X08
71
White?
W75
70
Galaxy White
Pearl
Green?
G13 20
-
----------------------------------
All
231
99 VR-4 colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Red?
R71
82
Black?
X08
103
White?
W75
86
Galaxy White
Pearl
Green?
G13 16
-
----------------------------------
All
287
95 & 96 VR-4 Spyder colors:
-
----------------------------------
Color
Code Number
-
----------------------------------
Firestorm
Red R71 510
Jet
Black
X94
140
Lamp Black
Brilliant White? W75
127
Galaxy White Pearl
Pearl White/Blue?? X08
84
Pearl Yellow?
Y99 14
Midnight Green?
G84 2
-
----------------------------------
All
877
Here's a list I got from the archives, with
some
cross-reference info to the codes above:
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-------------------------------------------------
This is from page 106 of
the Body.pdf from Vineet's Manual on CD and should
list all colors for US
3000GT/Stealths:
(M): Metallic paint
(P): Pearl tone paint
Body
color: White
Body color code:
W20
Not used on 3/S Turbo's.
Color number: AC1 0920
Body color name: Super
Pure White
Engine/luggage color number: AC 10955
Engine/luggage color
name: White
Body color: White
Body color code:
W75
Used on 3/S Turbo's.
Color number: AC1 0875
Body color name: Galaxy White
(P)
Engine/luggage color number: AC 10863
Engine/luggage color name:
White
Body color: Lamp Black
Body color code:
X94
Used on 3/S Turbo's.
Color number: AC10894
Body color name: Lamp Black
Engine/luggage color number: AC1 0539
Engine/luggage color name: Dark
Gray
Body color: Red
Body color code:
R25
Not used on 3/S Turbo's.
See RA5.
Color number: AC1 0925
Body color
name: Kutani Red (P)
Engine/luggage color number: AC1 0632
Engine/luggage
color name: Maroon
Body color: Red
Body color code:
R38
Not used on 3/S Turbo's.
See RA8.
Color number: AC1 0938
Body color
name: Passion Red
Engine/luggage color number: AC1 0795
Engine/luggage
color name: Red
Body color: Light Beige
Body color code:
s22
Not used on 3/S Turbo's.
See SA2.
Color number: AC1 0922
Body color
name: Wheat Beige (M)
Engine/luggage color number: AC1 0956
Engine/luggage
color name: Light Beige
Body color: Turquoise
Body color code:
T72
Not used on 3/S Turbo's.
See TA2.
Color number: AC1 0872
Body color
name: Napier Blue (M)
Engine/luggage color number: AC1 0898
Engine/luggage
color name: Turquoise
Body color: Bright Blue
Body color code:
T87
Not used on 3/S Turbo's.
See TA7.
Color number: AC1 0887
Body color
name: Fiji Blue (M)
Engine/luggage color number: AC1 0823
Engine/luggage
color name: Blue
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-------------------------------------------------
Mike.
94
TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:41:06
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: My turbo failing??
> Pulled of the two hoses that connect
to the Y-pipe and found a
> little oil in there. Then when I looked at the
rear turbo, I noticed that
> there was some oil sludge around the
compressor outlet.
Yes, this is really a lot but doesn't look like it is
comming from the turbo
from my point of view. To proove, I'd remove the rear
intercooling pipe and
check out the turbo outlet for its color. The behaviour
sounds strange and
it may point to a defective turbo too. Take some pics of
what you see inside
the y-pipe as wel las the compressor
outlet.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:51:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbo questions
Whoa! Two different air flows! The stock
heads flow about 230 cfm
each according to some old Team3S posts. The air the
heads flow is
*compressed* (when there is boost at the plenum). The rated air
flow
for turbos is *uncompressed* air that enters the turbos. When the
air
exits the turbo the volume is reduced and the temperature and
density
are increased (hopefully). Volume is further reduced when the
ICs
lower the temperature (and increase the density) - but hopefully
with
little loss in pressure. At 7000 RPM, if the cylinders were
to
completely fill with fresh charge (compressed or not), there would
be
about 367 cfm of air flow. At 8000 RPM and 100% VE that number goes
up
to about 420 CFM.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmhttp://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htmhttp://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo
questions
After hearing everyone talk about reading Corky Bells book
'Max
Boost', I actually did so. In it it clearly explains the
practical
method of choosing turbos for an app. with some quicky formulas
for
figuring out A/R P/R and cfm ratings. It shows how to read the
flow
maps etc. My question is this. I once read that our heads flow
about
400cfm (each?). If thats the max our heads can flow, anymore from
a
turbo would be wasted unless we could rev much higher then 7400rpm.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:29:22
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: Khang Hoang <
khanghoang@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
First I'd like to thank you all for
replying. The problem is that there is a fix such as elongate the mounting
hole, bend/shorten the lower control arm but to find someone to perform this fix
is next to impossible in my area. Dave, I've tried CDR Motorsport and
suggested him the fix listed above but he refused to do it. I've
tried
Firestone, Pepboys, Avellinos Tires, NTB, backyard garages you name it
, to see if they would perform this fix for me. They all say
no. Now I feel like buying a torch and do it myself!!! Firestone was
able to bring the front back to specs but not the rear. They
mentioned
that my rear toe adjustment bolts froze so they couldn't really
adjust the toe. I asked them if they tried to heat it up with a torch and
they said it's too close to the gas tank thus it's not safe to do so. I
bet if they could break the toe adjustment bolts loose, they could reduce
my negative camber abit. Am I right? I'm don't know much about the
relationship between toe and camber. By the way my car is 94 GT base
with
18" aftermarket rims. I guess -1.5 camber is not that serious but I prefer
to stay within specs. Also I think my tires are unidirectional so
I can
only rotate front to back and vice versa but not cross like this pattern "X" if
you know what I mean. Well, thanks again
Ken
This info is from the
computer
printout
LF
RF
Actual
Range
Actual
Range
- -0.2 -.5 to
.5
Camber
-0.3 -0.5 to
0.5
.02 -.12 to
.12
Toe
-.03 -.12 to
.12
LR
RR
Actual
Range
Actual
Range
- -1.2 -.5 to
.5 Camber
-1.6 -.5
to .5
- -.59 -.08 to
.12 Toe
-.85
-.08 to .12
>Wasn't there a trick to fix this?
Something about "oval-ing" the
>mounting holes to get the camber closer to
spec?
>
>I am gonna lower mine within the next year or so,
and this was the fix I
>was going to do. For a daily driver, -0.5 to
-1.0 should be the max you
>need. With this much negative camber,
excessive wear should not be a
>problem.
>--
>Marc J. Jacobs
Blue '94 VR-4
>xDSL Hardware Development
>Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:57:26
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Kick Back Problem
Okay, after all the
information I've been seeing go through this list in the past week or so I've
come up with a number of questions myself about turbos and our cars; especially
help in troubleshooting a problem with my car, which I'll get to first. To
keep it from being a long email, I'll send my questions out in parts and hope I
get responses.
I just purchased my 1994 VR-4 and I've noticed that when
I'm stopped at a sign/light or in traffic, and I shift into first gear, that my
car "kicks back" I guess you could say. It feels almost as though someone
hit the back of my car doing say maybe 5 miles an hour. I never ran into
this problem with my Talon TSi and unfortunately I haven't managed to find a
place I can reliably take my car into and have it checked out that's within
driving distance. I live in San Bernardino county (california) and I know
GT-Pro is in the city of industry, but due to traffic its too much of a
drive. I've taken my car to be looked at by every Mitsu dealer within 50
miles of my home and each of them has always told me various things are wrong
with the car. I'm not stupid, I may not know this car very well, but I
know cars quite well and I know when they're bull shitting me. So I was
wondering first if anyone can help me in diagnosing what this "kick back" in my
car is being caused by and!
how I can fix it?
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:01:20
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Turbo Cool Down
My next question is a
direct result of some info I saw flying around about 2 weeks ago on the
list. I noticed a discussion about Turbo Timers and their
usefulness. With my Talon, I used a turbo timer, perhaps due to ignorance,
I always thought it was the "way" to let my turbos spool down and cool
off. But in the discussion I noticed various people saying it's not the
greatest way at all, and that a much better way to let your turbos spool/cool
down is to "lazy drive" the car and take it easy during the last couple of
minutes before you reach your destination. So my question is this, can
anyone define "lazy driving" for me? Does that mean keep the turbos at no
work (-10 psi), at no boost (0 psi) or its perfectly okay for them to do some
work (1+ psi) as long as they're not doing work the whole way? Sorry for
the barrage of questions, but I just purchased this car and I'm finding
modifications for it are much more difficult and expensive than my
Talon.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:04:13
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mods
Since I recently purchased my 1994 3000GT VR-4, I've learned
from local shops (such as GT Pro) that mods to this car are much more expensive
and more difficult to do than my Talon TSi (which I expected, but didn't think
they'd be THIS much more difficult). I don't plan on making this car so
fast its not street legal, and I probably will never even take it to the track,
I would however like it be my fastest car and my prized possession. I was
wondering what mods those of you gurus on this list would suggest I do to the
car -- such as turbo timers, controllers, exhaust, intake, ignition, turbo
chargers, etc? Thanks in advance,
John
1994 3000GT
VR-4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:06:57
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Camber problem th GC
>e rear. They
mentioned
>that my rear toe adjustment bolts froze so they couldn't really
adjust the
toe. I asked them if they tried to heat it up with a torch
and they said
it's too close to the gas tank thus it's not safe to do
so. I bet if they
could break the toe adjustment bolts loose, they
could reduce my negative
camber abit. Am I right?
One has only
a slight effect on the other, and the last thing you want is
positive toe
back there.
> Also I think my tires are unidirectional so
>I
can only rotate front to back and vice versa but not cross like this
pattern
"X" if you know what I mean.
Don't believe everything you hear about
unidirectional.
Besides, you can always swap the tires on the rims, and then
swap the left
and right wheels. That will give you three rotates in all
(front to rear,
swap all fours on the rims and swap side to side, then front
to rear
again). Might even be a 4th rotate in their somewhere.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:08:37
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Supercharger hybrids
Something else I ran
across was the idea of a supercharger-turbocharger hybrid kit. I may be
totally inaccurate in what I'm about to say, which is that I've heard there are
some supra, dsm, and even porsche parts that are useable on our cars. In
fact one of those being that I'm checking on using Getrag's trannies for the
Porsche Carerras in our cars (still waiting to hear from them). My dad
owns a porsche Carerra and that was twin turbo and instead he found a custom
fabrication for it with a hybrid supercharger-turbocharger setup. It
increased his horsepower by using a larger turbo and fairly good sized
supercharger, made his car much quicker, and there is absolutely NO LAG at all
in his car... and I mean none. I was wondering if such a fabrication is in
existence for our cars or if the thought of one has come up. I know
superchargers run off belts, thus making reducing lag to virtually nothing,
which would allow us to use bigger turbos and hold more boost. Does such
!
exist, or has it been thought of for our cars? Or could we use
such a thing from the custom porsche designs?
John
1994 3000GT
VR-4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:14:40
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Kick Back Problem
>I just purchased
my 1994 VR-4 and I've noticed that when I'm stopped at a
sign/light or in
traffic, and I shift into first gear, that my car "kicks
back" I guess you
could say. It feels almost as though someone hit the
back of my car
doing say maybe 5
>miles an hour.
I suppose you've already
ruled out the clutch. A clutch that does not fully
disengage could cause
something like that.
Does it do the same if you shift into 2nd first,
then 1st? Does it jump
even a little?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:53:45
-0800 (PST)
From: adams john <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: trip to the dealership fruitless
Hello, perhaps someone with
patience is willing to
listen in
and give a little advice as I recently
got my car back
from
a local dodge dealership in dallas - to diagnose
(not
through warranty) a few
electronic symptoms of mine - and after two
days they
returned
with a sorry, we just don't feel comfortable
working
on the
vehicle. Well that's fine and understandable I
suppose,
although
they said they didnt even have the shop manuals to do
any
work!
The only thing they got around to doing was break off
the
power
window control plate on the driver door and
leave it sitting
in the
floorboard for me to discover. I certainly
wasn't going to wait
around
another day while they "figured out some way of
getting it back in".
At any rate, enough venting, here is what my problem
is:
Most
recently what sounds to be the MFI (fuel inj)
relay has been intermittently
going wacky and clicking with the engine also kicking
in and out. When i
got the
car back it seemed fine, but the past few days it
would act up
and then smoothen
out after a minute of driving or so. The rest of
the
problem rundown is as follows,
which i posted before but w/o
response:
- -power windows don't operate
- -headlight doors remain
up
- -windshield Intermittent does not work (constant does
however)
-
-cd and tape won't play - no sound from radio (fuse
good)
- -fan blower
works only occasionally
- -idles a bit high (1050 in drive, ~1500 P/N)
-
-actuating blinker causes the altemeter gauage needle
to
slightly bounce
in response.
Obviously Im not expecting any miracles of far
away
analysis,
but if this indicates a familiar problem to anyone
-
perhaps
an underlying thread or connection - it would greatly
help.
I realize
perhaps some of the mentioned components took a shock
or wore
down and
dont operate as a consequence of it. Ive gone through
some
aspects doing
obvious checks and what not - nothing supremely
thorough as
of yet. And
I replaced the ECU and TCU, since the components
looked a bit
in need of
it. Eventually I may take her into the mitsubishi
dealership -
but my luck
is never good with such places it seems.
Thanks for your
time, and thanks I hadnt gotten around
to giving to Marc Jacobs for sending
instructions on
the tool fabrications.
john,
93 stealth es
automatic
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:06:06
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: trip to the dealership fruitless
You need to call the
district office, and raise holy hell with them.
Its thier fucking
car..they need to know how to diagnose it OR read a
damn
manual.
Yes..use those exact words. I got serious mileage
at Toyota once when
they got all stupid on "we dont feel comfortable working
on your car
because of the modifications" when all I had was a K&N FIPK
on it.
On Wed, 21 Feb 2001, adams john wrote:
>
> Hello,
perhaps someone with patience is willing to
> listen in
> and give a
little advice as I recently got my car back
> from
> a local dodge
dealership in dallas - to diagnose (not
> through warranty) a few
>
electronic symptoms of mine - and after two days they
> returned
>
with a sorry, we just don't feel comfortable working
> on the
>
vehicle. Well that's fine and understandable I
> suppose, although
>
they said they didnt even have the shop manuals to do
> any work!
>
The only thing they got around to doing was break off
> the
> power
window control plate on the driver door and
> leave it sitting
> in
the floorboard for me to discover. I certainly
> wasn't going to wait
> around another day while they "figured out some way of
> getting
it back in".
>
> At any rate, enough venting, here is what my
problem
> is:
>
> Most recently what sounds to be the MFI
(fuel inj)
> relay has been intermittently
> going wacky and
clicking with the engine also kicking
> in and out. When i got the
> car back it seemed fine, but the past few days it
> would act up
and then smoothen
> out after a minute of driving or so. The rest of
the
> problem rundown is as follows,
> which i posted before but
w/o response:
>
> -power windows don't operate
> -headlight
doors remain up
> -windshield Intermittent does not work (constant
does
> however)
> -cd and tape won't play - no sound from radio
(fuse
> good)
> -fan blower works only occasionally
> -idles a
bit high (1050 in drive, ~1500 P/N)
> -actuating blinker causes the
altemeter gauage needle
> to
> slightly bounce in response.
>
> Obviously Im not expecting any miracles of far away
>
analysis,
> but if this indicates a familiar problem to anyone -
>
perhaps
> an underlying thread or connection - it would greatly
>
help. I realize
> perhaps some of the mentioned components took a
shock
> or wore down and
> dont operate as a consequence of it. Ive
gone through
> some aspects doing
> obvious checks and what not -
nothing supremely
> thorough as of yet. And
> I replaced the ECU
and TCU, since the components
> looked a bit in need of
> it.
Eventually I may take her into the mitsubishi
> dealership - but my luck
> is never good with such places it seems.
>
> Thanks for
your time, and thanks I hadnt gotten around
> to giving to Marc Jacobs for
sending instructions on
> the tool fabrications.
>
>
john,
> 93 stealth es automatic
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 20:05:12
-0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: trip to the dealership fruitless
Look at the "security
ECU" located left of the steering wheel directly
behind the mirror
switch. 233.00 retail. This controls, lights, wipers,
windows and I'm
sure other items.
However with all the "problems" your car has, I tend to
think you have a bad
ground somewhere, various "unrelated" problems
usually mean a bad chassis
ground.
Good luck.
Brad
Check out
my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of adams john
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:54 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: trip to the dealership fruitless
Hello, perhaps someone with
patience is willing to
listen in
and give a little advice as I recently
got my car back
from
a local dodge dealership in dallas - to diagnose
(not
through warranty) a few
electronic symptoms of mine - and after two
days they
returned
with a sorry, we just don't feel comfortable
working
on the
vehicle. Well that's fine and understandable I
suppose,
although
they said they didnt even have the shop manuals to do
any
work!
The only thing they got around to doing was break off
the
power
window control plate on the driver door and
leave it sitting
in the
floorboard for me to discover. I certainly
wasn't going to wait
around
another day while they "figured out some way of
getting it back
in".
At any rate, enough venting, here is what my
problem
is:
Most recently what sounds to be the MFI (fuel
inj)
relay has been intermittently
going wacky and clicking with the
engine also kicking
in and out. When i got the
car back it seemed fine,
but the past few days it
would act up and then smoothen
out after a minute
of driving or so. The rest of the
problem rundown is as follows,
which i
posted before but w/o response:
- -power windows don't operate
-
-headlight doors remain up
- -windshield Intermittent does not work (constant
does
however)
- -cd and tape won't play - no sound from radio
(fuse
good)
- -fan blower works only occasionally
- -idles a bit high
(1050 in drive, ~1500 P/N)
- -actuating blinker causes the altemeter gauage
needle
to
slightly bounce in response.
Obviously Im not expecting
any miracles of far away
analysis,
but if this indicates a familiar
problem to anyone -
perhaps
an underlying thread or connection - it would
greatly
help. I realize
perhaps some of the mentioned components took a
shock
or wore down and
dont operate as a consequence of it. Ive gone
through
some aspects doing
obvious checks and what not - nothing
supremely
thorough as of yet. And
I replaced the ECU and TCU, since the
components
looked a bit in need of
it. Eventually I may take her into the
mitsubishi
dealership - but my luck
is never good with such places it
seems.
Thanks for your time, and thanks I hadnt gotten around
to
giving to Marc Jacobs for sending instructions on
the tool
fabrications.
john,
93 stealth es
automatic
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:59:23
-0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Fuel Pump COMPARISON
I've gotten at least a couple questions on this so
here is public post:
Yes.
Our cars, and many (like Supra) have a
boost-sensing
fuel pressure regulator, that adds 1 psi of fuel
pressure
per 1 psi boost.
So, if you are making 0psi boost, it adds 0
psi to the base
fuel pressure (43 lbs in our cars).
At 5 psi boost it adds
5 psi , so 48 psi fuel pressure.
at 20 psi boost it adds 20 psi, so 63 psi
fuel pressure, etc.
This makes the fuel injector spray the same amount
of
fuel at any certain duty cycle. If the fuel pressure
weren't
higher, the extra intake manifold pressure (INTO WHICH
the fuel
injector is spraying) would have an EXTRA RESISTANCE
proportional to the
boost, so with higher and higher boost the
injector would spray less and less
fuel.
The extreme example would be:
Boost pressure = 43 psi; fuel
pressure = 43 psi; with NO
boost compensation, NO FUEL would spray out
because
the AIR pressure is equal to the FUEL pressure across
the
injector! With NO pressure differential across the fuel
injector,
no fuel would flow.
Thus, add 1 psi fuel pressure for each 1 psi
boost.
Boost sensing fuel pressure regulator.
Hope that
helps;
Jack
The Orsels wrote:
> Jack, fill me in will ya
?
> > They run fuel pressures of about 42-46 psi + boost, so at
>
>20-25psi are running 62-71 psi fuel pressures!
> Does that mean at
20-25 lbs of boost you have the fuel pressure to the
> injectors go up ?
How and why ?
> Hank 95tt
Mark William Hindelang wrote:
>
so can you change the psi of the pump to output more fluid?
> im confused
on this.. to up the boost, we need fuel computer and fuel pump and
>
injectors.. so how do we make the fuel pump BLAST that stuff out.. is there
a
> way to configure the psi of the pump for my current setup or, is that
what the
> AFC does?
>
> > I have seen this fuelpump flow
test, and it is IMO in question for three
> reasons,
> > at
least:
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:24:31
-0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Mods
If you want to go 12's ("probably never even take it to the track"
etc) then it certainly is NOT
expensive. Just get a boost
controller (from a bleeder valve at $3.50 or so, to an electronic
unit for
$300-600); an air filter for $75-150; and an after-catalyst exhaust for
$150-700...
there you are, in the 12's, for as little as $400.
Faster
does cost more, but oh my do some people like spending money for little to no
gain...
Intercooler/s: Useless...unless long track racing in which case
I'll allow they MAY help
(no data on that, just data that BIG/free flowing
SIDEmounts such as Alamo's or HKS
did NOT help my ET/MPH at dragstrip AT
ALL. MAYbe a frontmount helps, but I
sure didn't have them for any of
my records--they were all through stock intercoolers).
Supra fuel pump is
good idea after the above simple 3 mods; good to take the car
to 120-125 mph
quartermile speeds with proper other equipment.
Well, there are lots of
"staged mods" pages and sites out there, just be leery of
anybody/place
telling you you "need" an intercooler until you are IN the 11's or
BETTER;
their eyes may be more on your pocketbook or too slavishly attentive
to "their"
buildup scheme.
IMHO :)
Jack Tertadian
10.81 @
128.44mph world's quickest dragraced 3S
John Stegall III
wrote:
> I purchased 1994 3000GT VR-4, I've learned from local shops
(such as GT Pro) mods are much more expensive/more difficult to do than my Talon
TSi (which I expected, but didn't think they'd be THIS much more
difficult). I don't plan on making car so fast its not street legal, and
probably will never take it to track, I'd like it be my fastest car/my prized
possession. I wonder what mods you gurus would suggest -- turbo timers,
controllers, exhaust, intake, ignition, turbo chargers, etc?
>
John 1994 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 08:39:01
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo questions
Yah okay, my numbers were guesses from memory,
but the question still
remains and my 400 number was for all practical
purposes the max number I
remember seeing at redline cause thats what you
need to know to be sure your
turbo can flow that much,- right?. What
does a turbo that flows 800cfm each
do for me for our
application?
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo
questions
>Whoa! Two different air flows! The stock heads flow
about 230 cfm
>each according to some old Team3S posts. The air the heads
flow is
>*compressed* (when there is boost at the plenum). The rated air
flow
>for turbos is *uncompressed* air that enters the turbos. When the
air
>exits the turbo the volume is reduced and the temperature and
density
>are increased (hopefully). Volume is further reduced when the
ICs
>lower the temperature (and increase the density) - but hopefully
with
>little loss in pressure. At 7000 RPM, if the cylinders were
to
>completely fill with fresh charge (compressed or not), there would
be
>about 367 cfm of air flow. At 8000 RPM and 100% VE that number
goes
>up to about 420 CFM.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htm>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htm>
>Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
>To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 12:32 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo
questions
>
>After hearing everyone talk about reading Corky Bells
book 'Max
>Boost', I actually did so. In it it clearly explains the
practical
>method of choosing turbos for an app. with some quicky formulas
for
>figuring out A/R P/R and cfm ratings. It shows how to read the
flow
>maps etc. My question is this. I once read that our heads flow
about
>400cfm (each?). If thats the max our heads can flow, anymore
from a
>turbo would be wasted unless we could rev much higher then
7400rpm.
><snip>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do
You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great
prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/>
>***
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 05:30:50
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Turbo Questions: Kick Back Problem
John,
This is
a somewhat common problem with our cars, and I have found this to be an example
of what happens when you have a little too much play in the
driveshaft.
Regards,
Dan J
94 Stealth TT
>>>
John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com> - 2/21/01 4:57
PM >>>
Okay, after all the information I've been seeing go through
this list in the past week or so I've come up with a number of questions myself
about turbos and our cars; especially help in troubleshooting a problem with my
car, which I'll get to first. To keep it from being a long email, I'll
send my questions out in parts and hope I get responses.
I just purchased
my 1994 VR-4 and I've noticed that when I'm stopped at a sign/light or in
traffic, and I shift into first gear, that my car "kicks back" I guess you could
say. It feels almost as though someone hit the back of my car doing say
maybe 5 miles an hour. I never ran into this problem with my Talon TSi and
unfortunately I haven't managed to find a place I can reliably take my car into
and have it checked out that's within driving distance. I live in San
Bernardino county (california) and I know GT-Pro is in the city of industry, but
due to traffic its too much of a drive. I've taken my car to be looked at
by every Mitsu dealer within 50 miles of my home and each of them has always
told me various things are wrong with the car. I'm not stupid, I may not
know this car very well, but I know cars quite well and I know when they're bull
shitting me. So I was wondering first if anyone can help me in diagnosing
what this "kick back" in my car is being caused by and!
how I can fix
it?
Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.comSend & receive large
files with 100MB of storage
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 08:26:43
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods
John,
I think in the hands of a capable driver or
one who has learned the AWD
correctly a stock 3/S car vs. a stock Talon TSi
is no match. Modify your
Talon to the point that it is comparable to a
3/S and THEN you can have some
fun. That still means that the 3/S is
going to remain stock. It just has
meaner and beefier stuff to begin
with so upgrading them is more expensive
(top of the line parts that are no
longer in production) but yield better
performance.
Okay, now for the
non-technical stuff. How are you comparing what car is
fastest?
In a drag race I don't think anybody will ever beat a
nicely-modified Talon
except someone who is getting near 1,000-hp out of the
stock motor (I've
sworn not to say who this is until it happens and is
documented). And
since I am not a fan of a 4,000-pound car ever being able
to win a drag race
without blowing up some parts ... I suggest you take some
time trials on
those twisty roads and see which car wins. It should be the
3/S car
(bigger turbos, brakes, better cooling, etc.) but sometimes it will
feel
slower yet yield a faster time.
Of course, there are reasons why everyone
Rally Races the Talon and Eclipse
and not a Stealth or 3000GT.
*bog* My racing will be limited to open
tracks I suppose.
Good
luck.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com <
mailto:dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
1995 VR-4 getting set up for road racing in hopes of beating
a
nicely-modified, smaller, lighter, and more agile M3
- -----Original
Message-----
From: John Stegall III [
mailto:john.stegall@e247.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:04 PM
I would however like it be my
fastest car and my prized possession. I was
wondering what mods those
of you gurus on this list would suggest I do to
the car -- such as turbo
timers, controllers, exhaust, intake, ignition,
turbo chargers, etc?
Thanks in advance,
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End of team3s V1
#415
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