team3s
Tuesday, February 20
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
413
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:25:53 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
SHOOTOUT ENTRY LIST Updated 2-19-01
DSM SHOOTOUT July 20-22 2001 List of
Entrants So Far, Update 2-19-2001--
Norwalk Raceway Park, Norwalk
Ohio
Sponsor: Buschur Racing
Our Shootout is on Friday July 20;
Autocross July 21; ALL IMPORT
Shootout on July 22.
If you have
info/missing/needing change, email ME DIRECT
xwing@execpc.comYou can post info here,
or (better) at
http://64.39.19.113/ (the
"Track
Times" board on 3SI),
? denotes not sure if coming. Info
needed:
1)Your full name + "3SI nickname"
2)Car/color/Shop (if
associated with one)
3)City/State of origin
4)Hotel you're staying
at
5)email
1 Aaron "zentelis", 94 RT/TT, Hanover PA
2 Ryan Alavi
"StreetRacer", 95 VR4 black Altered Atmosphere, Bowie MD,
GTeklnc@aol.com3 Shaun Atkinson "Yellow
ES", 92 Stealth ES yellow, Farmersville OH,
4 Dave Best "Dave Best", 92 VR4
maroon, Kingstown VA, Amerihost Suites,
WDB039@erols.com5 Brian Bochenek, 93 VR4
black Altered Atmospheres/ Alamo Motorsports,
New Britain CT,
badblackVR4@snet.net6 Terry Bosserman
"black95rttt", 95RT/TT Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, Findlay
OH,
black95rttt@hotmail.com7 Brian
"allengineSL", 95 3000GT SL, Chicago IL
8 ?Bruce "Bruce", 95 VR4 red, Granada
Hills CA
9 Joe Canella, 96 VR4 Spyder Altered Atmosphere, MD
10 Wayne
Carickhoff "WAYNECAR", 95 VR4 yellow, Harrisonburg VA,
TTAWD@aol.com11 ?Scott Cowan, 92 VR4 black
P1pedream Motorsports, Waukesha WI,
sjcOu812@juno.com12 Eric Doerr, 93RT/TT
white Altered Atmosphere, MD
13 Shawn Enz, 94 3000GT SL, Philadelphia PA,
EnzS@towers.com14 Hans Ertl "Hans91GT", 91
3000GT, + 92 RT/TT Ground Zero Performance,
hertl@snip.net15 Mike Feryok "MikeF", 92
RT/TT white, Detroit MI
16 ?Rob Flynn "akira410", 92 VR4 white + 97 VR4
white, Irvine CA
17 "igots2", 92 VR4
18 Joe Gonsowski "JoeG", 92 RT/TT
GTPro/GK Racing, Westland MI,
twinturbo@mediaone.net19 Rick
Hawley "Huntervr4", 93 VR4 green, Greenwood IN,
TT_3KGT@hotmail.com20 Matt Jannusch
"mjannusch", 95 VR4 Spyder white, Minneapolis MN,
mjannusch@marketwatch.com21
?J.B., 94 3000GT SL TT Altered Atmosphere
22 Jeff "mr2turb", 95VR4, Columbus
OH
23 Jim Juliff, 92 RT/TT black, Lenexa KS, Amerihost Suites,
jejuliff@yahoo.com24 Trent Karr
"TKarr", 93 RT/TT, Wyomissing PA
25 Jim Kielma, RT/TT, Cudahy WI,
jkielma@aol.com26 Jeff Lucius "Jeff
Lucius", 92 RT/TT red, Golden CO, Ramada Ltd,
jlucius@stealth316.com27 Shawn
MacArthur "BigBadVR4", 92VR4 black GT Pro,
Shawnmac@usa.net28 Mike Mahaffey
"Lotoboost", 94 Stealth + 96 VR4 Altered Atmosphere,
29 Omar Malik "ojm", 92
RT/TT or 92 TT Ground Zero Performance,
Philadelphia PA,
ojm@iname.com30 "Mellon", 91RT/TT
white
31 Dan Mercier "DanM_94_VR4", 94 VR4 green 3SX Automotive
Technology/GT
Pro, Louisville KY,
dan@3sxperts.com32 Matt Monett
"snakeskinner", 93 RT/TT white Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, NM
33 Nino "hated", 91
RT/TT "The Lab", San Diego CA, Super 8 Hotel,
hated@hotmail.com34 Anthony Ng "Antmay",
95 VR4, Rocky River OH,
anthony.ng@onbase.com35 Shawn M.
O'Connor "soc3GT95basn20", 95 3000GT n/a red, Charlotte NC
36 Oskar, RT/TT
white, Minneapolis MN,
Osk@mediaone.net37 Pete Palamara
"palamarap", 92 VR4 blue Action Turbo/Altered
Atmosphere, Greenwood Village
CO,
pala@gwl.com38 "pokey293", 91
VR4 Dynamic Racing/GTPro, Phoenix AZ
39 "Racer X", RT/TT, Stockbridge
GA
40 Jetinder Raja "Raja", 94 VR4 yellow, Lawrence KS
41 Greg Rush
"rushvr4", 92 VR4 silver, Cincinnati OH,
rush@siscom.net42 Ryan "Shadowfax", 92
RT/TT
43 Ryan "PriOityp", 94 SL
44 James S. "James S", 94 RT/TT yellow,
Rockford IL,
FastYZFR6@aol.com45
Darren Schilberg, 95 VR4 black, Pittsburgh, PA,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com46
Matt Schneider "Schneider80", 95 VR4 blue, Chicago IL,
matt@cbcast.com47 Rob Schoen "rob", MI,
rschoen@home.com48 Vineet Singh, 92 RT/TT
blue, Naperville IL, Econolodge or Best
Western,
eagletek@ecanfix.com49 Josh Slusher
"Slush5", 91 Stealth SOHC blue/white, Celina OH,
Amerihost Inn,
slush5@hotmail.com50 Chris Smyrniotis
"fierce" 92 RT/TT green GT Pro, Chicago IL,
TridentD5@aol.com51 Jose Soriano
"Amahoser", 91 RT/TT red GT Pro, Southern CA
52 Jack Tertadian "xwing", 94
VR4 red Atomic Motorsports, Oak Creek WI,
Econolodge,
xwing@execpc.com53 Charles Theiss, 94
RT/TT yellow Altered Atmosphere Bethesda MD,
StealthCT@aol.com54 ?Trevor "Trevor"
96RT/TT red
55 Mike Tucker "1badVR4", 93 VR4 chameleon GT Pro, San Antonio
TX
56 Kevin Umbreit "unclesam099", 91 RT blue,
unclesam099@hotmail.com57
Christian Williamson "daprguy", 91 RT/NA champaign GTPro, S. CA
58 Jeff
Williamson "JeffW3000", 92 VR4 red, Belleville MI,
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com59 Bob
Witmer, 93 RT/TT, MI
60 Peter Yaghi "crazey", 96 VR4 white East Side
Motorsports, Columbia
SC,
Crazylc@hotmail.comNumber of
people: 60
Number of Shops: 11 (Alamo Motorsports, Altered Atmosphere,
Atomic
Motorsports, Dynamic Racing, East Side Motorsports, GKRacing,
Ground
Zero Performance, GT Pro, The Lab, P1pedream Motorsports,
3SX
Engineering)
Number of Stealths: 29 (some have not listed their car,
some have more
than one car)
Number of 3000GTs: 33
BEEEE
THEEEEERRE!!!
Thanks!
Jack Tertadian, Atomic Motorsports
:)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:38:59
+1300
From: Kenneth Wells <
k.wells@morganbanks.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
I'm about to replace my stock
rotors with Porterfield Cryo treated ones (As
they seem to be the recommended
replacement).
I don't do any track racing, but drive quite hard on the
winding open roads
over here in New Zealand. I've managed to eat 2-3mm into
my stock rotors
with Hawk pads, so I've got a set of EBC kevlar pads (which
have a very good
reputation in NZ) ready to go on with the new rotors.
My
only problem at the moment is where to get the porterfields... their
web-site
seems to be down, and I've searched the web for dealers, but no
luck.
Is
crossdrilling or sloting recommended? I guess I like the idea because of
the
look, but I'm really more interested in the performance.
Thanks for any
info from anyone,
Kenneth Wells
'91 GTO TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:51:16
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ID bad shocks/struts
Hello everyone,
I have a set of ECS shocks
and struts from my '91 Stealth TT and was
wondering how to tell if they are
in ok condition to sell.. They are off
of the car, as I have parted it
out. Any and all help appreciated =)
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:02:34
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
Porterfield you
say..
Heres the Speedtoys.Com pricing on VR4 porterfield
hardware.
These are for 2nd gen only. I Can get 1st gen (obviously)
but you SHOULD
upgrade to 2nd gen anyway *grin*
> > 1995
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 List price:
> > Front Rotors JBR 785
$99.50* $109
> > Rear Rotors JBR 786
$94.00* $104
> > Front R4-S Pads AP 531
$57.00 $89
> > Rear R4-S Pads AP 631
$64.00 $99
I might be able to find another $10 off
these, will find out tomorrow.
The additional following treatments are
$40/ea per rotor:
Cryo (highly recommended)
Slotting (OK, but not
required)
Drilling (Why bother..slot if you _must_ do
something)
On Tue, 20 Feb 2001, Kenneth Wells wrote:
> I'm
about to replace my stock rotors with Porterfield Cryo treated ones (As
>
they seem to be the recommended replacement).
> I don't do any track
racing, but drive quite hard on the winding open roads
> over here in New
Zealand. I've managed to eat 2-3mm into my stock rotors
> with Hawk pads,
so I've got a set of EBC kevlar pads (which have a very good
> reputation
in NZ) ready to go on with the new rotors.
> My only problem at the moment
is where to get the porterfields... their
> web-site seems to be down, and
I've searched the web for dealers, but no
> luck.
> Is crossdrilling
or sloting recommended? I guess I like the idea because of
> the look, but
I'm really more interested in the performance.
>
> Thanks for any
info from anyone,
> Kenneth Wells
> '91 GTO TT
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:54:01
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>Is crossdrilling or
sloting recommended?
No. Crossdrilling will make them crack.
I don't
know about slotting.
Better you don't fool with them. These are mighty
rotors. I've been through
five sets of race pads and never warped them. After
five sets, I did wear
them down to below recommended thickness. Rotors are,
after all, a wear item.
To contact them, try:
e-mail
timg@globalpac.com phone
949/548-7783
fax: 949/548-7783
web site:
www.porterfield-brakes.comTry
the site again. I just did, and it worked.
You may have left out the dash.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:04:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
Also:
> > Full
Case of Motul-600 $79.00
> > Full Case of Motul 5.1 $46.80
600
is best for racing IMHO.
5.1 is just as excellent, just not as heat resistant
(race temps only are
a problem) but doesnt absorb water and require flushing
as much as the
600.
*should do a caliper volume flush after
every serious track event*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:01:55
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
At 08:04 PM 2/19/01 -0800,
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>Also:
>
>> > Full Case of Motul-600
$79.00
>> > Full Case of Motul 5.1 $46.80
>
I don't know if
you have U.S.-based Ford dealers there in NZ, but check
with them anyway to
see if they carry Ford High Performance Brake Fluid.
It's the greatest
bargain in racing: about $3 a pint and it has a 550 F
boiling point. Only
problem: You GOTTA bleed the brakes before every track
event. It does not
recover well from repeated boiling at the track like
Motul does, so you gotta
keep replacing it. But, at $3 a pint, you can
replace a LOT of
fluid.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:24:05
-0800
From: Ferry Holidjaja <
tetu@surfcity.net>
Subject: Team3S:
19" Rims
Hi,
I have a question: Will 19" wheel fits on 3000GT base
model ??
Thanks.
Yours,
Ferry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 01:09:42
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Windshield washer bottle in front bumper addition to
2G
Dan,
Thanks for the reply. So, I know the ERL is the way
to go now.
>1. The tank will fit the 2nd gen cars. Roger got one for
me and it works
>great.
I'll wait for Roger to put up a webpage on
where to get the washer tank.
>2. You can hook up a low level warning
light. The tank has a hole in the
>bottom of it that will accept the float
switch. The float switch is
>identical to the one for you windshield
washer tank. I wired my own led
>warning lamp into the WI tank float
switch.
I'll look into how much the float switch costs, and maybe I can
splice the
wires from the new tank float switch to the old tank float
swich. Roger
mentioned that it is the same dashboard light that turns
on when level is
low.
>3. The tank should fit the Stealth with no
problem. The area under the
>bumper is the same on either car and this is
where the tank mounts. I made
>up my own brackets to mount the tank as
there are none there from the
>factory. It was very easy.
I'll have to
look at the tank when I get it to see what brackets to make
for
it.
>4. The ERL system that Roger and I use is the finest that
I have seen on
the
>market. It isn't cheap but the system is of the
highest quality. If you're
>interested in the ERL unit let me know. My
company 3SX Automotive
>Technologies is a retail distributor for
ERL.
How much does your company sell the unit for (either the ERL Aquamist
System
1s or 2s)? Is there any way I can get a discount through you, or
does the
list get any slecial privileges with your company? Do you have
the ERL WI
1s or 2s system?
>5. Roger will have to help you with
the part numbers for the tank and
filler
>tube. I can't seem to find
them around here anywhere.
Roger is putting a webpage together with the part
numbers and relevant info.
>Let me know if you would like to see some
pictures of my WI installation.
That would be great. I would appreciate
you letting me see some pics of
your installation.
>Dan
Mecier
>3SX Automotive Technologies
>
www.3Sxperts.com>1994 3000GT
VR-4
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 01:09:38
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Windshield washer bottle in front bumper addition to
2G
Roger,
>> Do you know if I
can
>>plug the "low light level" into my harness?
>
>Hmm, I
do have the european manual too and I will check by comparing with
>the US
harness. On mine it lights up the same water level lamp like for
the
>windshield washer bottle.
Dan Mercier mentioned that this washer
tank uses the same float switch to
indicate a low level. I'll look into
how much the float switch costs, and
maybe I can splice the wires from the
new tank float switch to the old tank
float swich output wires since it is
the same dashboard light that turns on
when level is low. But then
again, if there is a connector there, I'll just
plug the switch in
it.
>I do not recommend the 2s as it simply is not necessary. You
can shop for
>the System 1s as it is the best solution for us. Cost at the
moment is £307
>from ERL (
www.aquamist.co.uk) and this is with a
prepressurized path (the
>high end solution for sure, but fully
reliable).
I see you are reccomending the cheaper of the 2 alternatives
(1s). How many
of the features are you currently using from the
2s? Are you spraying
various amounts of water at different boost
levels, RPM, air flow values,
injector signals, etc.? Baisically, is it
good to have a map (for example,
like my Apexi AVC-R boost controller has) or
it is OK to just inject a set
amount of water whenever you exceed a set boost
(ie. 10 psi)? Is there any
way we can dump too much water in the
engine?
>There are other systems but I'm not happy with the systems as
they do not
>spray such a fine mist as the ERL one. But as said, the
System 1 is enough
>for our application and I got System 2 in the hope to
get some fine tuning
>possibilities. In fact the system does allow me much
to do but itis not
>necessary on our cars.
I will look around for the
price differences between the 1s and 2s and will
make an educated decision
which way to go. I do not like picking 2nd best
too much, so I will
have to see the USD version of the (£307 and £556).
>Yes, it is as the
temperature in the intake before the throttle body should
>be less than
60°C. Best is around 39°C. I once measured 94°C without WI at
>the intake
and about 144°C at the turbo discharge.
>I'd Install a cheap temp
sensor with a small digital display that can be
>get for about $50 or so.
The temp range should go up to 300°C (sensor)
Thanks for the temp
ranges.
>I'm setting up a page with the parts needed for the tank
(only available in
>europe) so everyone will be able to get it
easily.
I'll wait untill you have time to put up your webpage. No
rush. I'm not
going to order tomorrow.
Different topic
question:
My mods are Pexi AVC-R (0.8 and 1 bar settings) and K&N FIPK on
my 95 VR4.
My plugs are still factory originals (@ 40000 miles). Does
this present
more of a dettonation or missfiring risk than a lower
setting? My brother's
94 TT plugs are set @ 0.34. Should I set
mine at 0.34, 0.32 or what? I
have a spare intake gasket in case I need
to regap my plugs. It would
probably be a goo opportunity to examine
the plugs and take pictures for you
and the list to see for dettonation
problems.
Any new info on the MSD knock sensor and correlation with TMO
datalogger?
Is it a good, reliable, and good quality toy(important safety
feature)? If
this works, you just solved everyone's knock monitoring
problem, including
mine and my
brother's.
>Regards
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:56:43
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Windshield washer bottle in front bumper addition to
2G
Please bear with me as I cannot find the pictures of the tank alone
anymore
and I don't have the part number for it. I will call Mitsu today as
the
european parts are not included in the CAPS on Vinnies
CD.
Basically, the front washer kit consists of the tank itselfs, a pump
on it,
the low level sensor switch, a rubber hose with clamps and a plstic
tube
piece that can be extended with a cap. With this it is easier to fill
in
water/alcohol. Of course one can have the tank without this stuff but it
fits perfectly :) I will take some pics of the stuff on the car
too.
>Thanks for the reply. So, I know the ERL is the way to go
now.
It's one way. There are others around but the Spearco has a weak
pump and
no check valves. There is also another system but the ERL is the
only one
with a real strong high pressure pump that works with any
tank.
> >1. The tank will fit the 2nd gen cars. Roger got one for
me and it works
> >great.
>I'll wait for Roger to put up a
webpage on where to get the washer tank.
During this week.
>
>2. You can hook up a low level warning light. The tank has a hole in
the
> >bottom of it that will accept the float switch. The float switch
is
> >identical to the one for you windshield washer tank. I wired my
own led
> >warning lamp into the WI tank float switch.
The
switch is damn expensive for what it is ! Maybe one can get it out of a
trashed car from a salvage yard for a few bucks.
>I'll look into
how much the float switch costs, and maybe I can splice the
>wires from
the new tank float switch to the old tank float swich.
Roger
>mentioned that it is the same dashboard light that turns on when
level is
>low.
I will present the wiring diagram on my pages
then.
> >4. The ERL system that Roger and I use is the finest that
I have seen on
>the
> >market. It isn't cheap but the system is
of the highest quality. If you're
> >interested in the ERL unit let me
know. My company 3SX Automotive
> >Technologies is a retail distributor
for ERL.
Yes, unfortunately it is expensive but it also allows you to use
the new
flow switch that tells you when water is really flowing. The System
2s
incorporates the technology and lights up an LED when water is blocked.
It
can even be wired with the stock boost solenoid to bypass any aftermarket
boost controller. This will provide you with a safety feature if water is
empty or a jet is blocked.
>How much does your company sell the
unit for (either the ERL Aquamist System
>1s or 2s)? Is there any
way I can get a discount through you, or does the
>list get any slecial
privileges with your company? Do you have the ERL WI
>1s or 2s
system?
If you ask me and RTEC then there is no gain when I give it for
my price.
This due to the fact that the US resellers have better prices than
me in
Europe. So it is worth to ask a dealer in your State. My System is
2s.
>Roger is putting a webpage together with the part numbers and
relevant info.
The part numbers will not help you at all as you cannot
order anything from
Mitsu that isn't in the CAPS database. I'll try to get
several tanks so
shipping will be lower.
> >Let me know if you
would like to see some pictures of my WI installation.
>That would be
great. I would appreciate you letting me see some pics of
>your
installation.
Yes, sure, we all want to see them
:)
Cheers
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:08:20
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 19" Rims
What year and what width?
I believe 20" rims
(maybe 20x9.5) fit on the rear of a second gen car. My
front can handle
the stock wheel of 18x8.5 with stock offset but can not
handle any tire over
270mm wide without spacers (I tried 265 and it fit and
275 did not so I am
assuming here).
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 VR-4 with stock 18x8.5 rims and 245/40/18 tires
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ferry Holidjaja [
mailto:tetu@surfcity.net]
Sent: Monday,
February 19, 2001 23:24
Hi,
I have a question: Will 19" wheel fits on
3000GT base model ??
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:38:59
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
Jeff, I didn't
find the noise in your car "unbearable". I guess there is
some blessing
in the "noise notch" I have from shooting guns without ear
plugs. Maybe I was
more concerned about the approach of Turn 1 than the
noise.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff [
SMTP:spydervr4@home.com]
> Sent:
Sunday, February 18, 2001 12:02 PM
> To: Brad Bedell; Team3S
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
>
> Well, I've tried it:
>
> 1) Top down, helmet on at the
Texas World Speedway and it wasn't that bad.
> I think the helmet muffles
a lot of the noise.
> 2) Top up, windows down, helmet on, and it wasn't
that bad either. Once
> again, I think the helmet made a big
difference, but even so I didn't hear
> any shrieking, just a lot of wind
noise.
> 3) Top up, windows up, no helmet. Right at 120 you can hear
the
> shrieking/jet engine noise starting and by 130 or 135 it's
unbearable.
>
> As far as the rattles, yeah mine got louder when I
lowered the car too.
> I'm
> not quite so worried about that.
It's the high speed noise that bothers
> me
> because my old
hatchback never had this problem and the Spyders in all the
> mags
supposedly top out at 151 or so bone stock. Well maybe it can,
maybe
> it can't, but I can't find out because I don't have ear
plugs.
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '95
Chevrolet K1500 Z71
>
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
> To:
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
"'Jeff'"
> <
spydervr4@home.com>; "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 8:35 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:
Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
>
>
> > If
you're traveling that fast, you should have a helmet on :) Ear
plugs
> > would be a good addition to anyone who owns a spyder
also.
> >
> > I get a lot of wind noise from my quarter
windows and the seam directly
> > overhead. (similar noise as the
sun-roof makes on some cars)
> > My spyder is actually quieter with the
top down.
> >
> > The noises DID get worse when I put springs
on the spyder, I'm going to
> > assume most of the noise is from
chassis flex and age.
> >
> > This summer I'm going to stitch
weld the unibody on the spyder,
> hopefully
> > this will help
the flex a little.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:09:39
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
[Willis, Charles E.]
Okay, okay, you heard everybody else's
opinion. I like the
crossdrilling. I don't like the slotting. I would
rather have flat
rotors than slotted ones. There is a large amount of
sentiment that
anything that reduces the amount of rotor surface area is
bad, because it
reduces friction. I believe crossdrilling improves the
pad's bite into
the rotor, improves cooling, and gives the metal somewhere
to expand during
heating. All these opinions are based on beliefs from
personal
experience. I also cracked my first crossdrilled rotor in four
seasons
last track event.
So now you are as confused as the rest of
us!
Chuck Willis
>
> Is crossdrilling or sloting
recommended? I guess I like the idea because
> of
> the look, but
I'm really more interested in the performance.
>
> Thanks for any
info from anyone,
> Kenneth Wells
> '91 GTO TT
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:01:26
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
> [Willis, Charles
E.] Okay, okay, you heard everybody else's
> opinion. I like
the crossdrilling. I don't like the slotting. I would
> rather have
flat rotors than slotted ones. There is a large amount of
>
sentiment that anything that reduces the amount of rotor surface area is
>
bad, because it reduces friction.
- ---
It does..it removed the
available area to create friction ON..it doesnt
reduce it itself. This
leads to hotter rotors, quicker fade..and if youre
in a situation where the
brakes are barely large enough for your car in
the first place..the lost
friction area + decreased thermal mass to absorb
that heat with..conspire
with each other to make your day suck. Theres no
such thing as pad
gassing either with a good pad design. OEM type
pads..yes, may gas..but
once that hot they will be useless anyhow.
> I believe crossdrilling
improves the
> pad's bite into the rotor, improves cooling, and gives the
metal somewhere
> to expand during heating.
- ---
Believe as you
will..but it doesnt increase bite, will improve cooling in
a non-vented rotor
only..and actually causes expansion "issues" no matter
who makes the
rotor. A good rotor with proper breaking in will handle
heat expansion
just fine. (none of these things can solve a bad hat
design
tho).
> All these opinions are based on beliefs from
> personal
experience. I also cracked my first crossdrilled rotor in four
>
seasons last track event.
- ---
I cracked mine at the hub in 7
laps. *heh*
> > Is crossdrilling or sloting recommended? I
guess I like the idea because
- ---
Slotting can be marginally better IF
you glaze your pads. If its just for
looks..thats $160 worth of drillin
to look cool.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:42:58
-0600
From: "Jim" <
devlin@jobe.net>
Subject: Team3S: max
tire width
Does anyone know the widest tire size that I could use on my
stock 95-SL. I
have 16" factory crome wheels. I now have 245x16's. Im
looking for that
meaner look without tire rub.
Thanks,
Jim from
Missouri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:57:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: max tire width
Wheel width * 25.4 * 1.2 should be the max
"sporty" width you want.
Width * 25.4 * 1 is optimal for best performance
from your tire.
On Tue, 20 Feb 2001, Jim wrote:
> Does anyone
know the widest tire size that I could use on my stock 95-SL. I
>
have 16" factory crome wheels. I now have 245x16's. Im looking for that
>
meaner look without tire rub.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim from
Missouri
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:02:20
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
I don't believe there is no
such thing as pad offgassing. I don't believe
the amount of material
removed in crossdrilling makes a significant
difference in the overall mass
of the rotor, they stil seem pretty heavy to
me. Stillen Metal Matrix
pads are not OEM type but gas (a bunch). Cracking
at the hub doesn't
really have anything to do with the crossdrilling, does
it? Mine has
radial fracture lines across one face in two places.
I got flamed pretty
bad the last time I said something disparaging about our
car's brakes being
marginal.
What do you mean by "glazing your pads"? Between events I
clean my pads
with solvent and scotch brite pads to remove glaze, and I turn
my rotors to
remove glaze. Glaze sounds "smooth" which seems like the
antithesis of
friction.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [
SMTP:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:01 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
>
Cc: 'Kenneth Wells';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>
> >
[Willis, Charles E.] Okay, okay, you heard everybody else's
> >
opinion. I like the crossdrilling. I don't like the slotting. I
would
> > rather have flat rotors than slotted ones. There is a
large amount of
> > sentiment that anything that reduces the amount of
rotor surface area is
> > bad, because it reduces friction.
>
---
>
> It does..it removed the available area to create friction
ON..it doesnt
> reduce it itself. This leads to hotter rotors,
quicker fade..and if youre
> in a situation where the brakes are barely
large enough for your car in
> the first place..the lost friction area +
decreased thermal mass to absorb
> that heat with..conspire with each
other to make your day suck. Theres no
> such thing as pad gassing
either with a good pad design. OEM type
> pads..yes, may gas..but
once that hot they will be useless anyhow.
>
> > I believe
crossdrilling improves the
> > pad's bite into the rotor, improves
cooling, and gives the metal
> somewhere
> > to expand during
heating.
> ---
> Believe as you will..but it doesnt increase bite,
will improve cooling in
> a non-vented rotor only..and actually causes
expansion "issues" no matter
> who makes the rotor. A good rotor
with proper breaking in will handle
> heat expansion just fine.
(none of these things can solve a bad hat
> design tho).
>
>
> All these opinions are based on beliefs from
> > personal
experience. I also cracked my first crossdrilled rotor in four
>
> seasons last track event.
> ---
>
> I cracked mine at
the hub in 7 laps. *heh*
>
> > > Is crossdrilling or
sloting recommended? I guess I like the idea
> because
> ---
>
Slotting can be marginally better IF you glaze your pads. If its just
for
> looks..thats $160 worth of drillin to look cool.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:12:31
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
> I don't believe
>
the amount of material removed in crossdrilling makes a significant
>
difference in the overall mass of the rotor, they stil seem pretty heavy
to
> me.
- ---
Your welcome to your opinion too. Im just
stating what physics are
involved..and they dont shift based on what the
driver thinks. VR4 brakes
on stock calipers a really just a tad too
small for the car, and every
ounce counts.
> Stillen Metal Matrix
pads are not OEM type but gas (a bunch).
- ---
If you are using
MMatrix pads as a high-performance pad example..then we
are both clearly on
different pages here. The Matrix pad aint high
performance. Ive
melted two sets on supras, and theres been one really
cool meltdown on a S3K
thats documented as well.
> at the hub doesn't really have anything to
do with the crossdrilling,
> does
> it? Mine has radial
fracture lines across one face in two places.
- ---
Not really, but
non-cast drilling has shown in many cases..to be a
cracking problem.
But it all depends on what you call "performance"
braking.
> I got
flamed pretty bad the last time I said something disparaging about our
>
car's brakes being marginal.
- ---
Im not gonna flame ya..*grin*.
But the VR4 brake setup is rather
marginal.
> What do you
mean by "glazing your pads"? Between events I clean my pads
> with
solvent and scotch brite pads to remove glaze, and I turn my rotors to
>
remove glaze. Glaze sounds "smooth" which seems like the antithesis
of
> friction.
- ---
Glaze is where the pad face has overheated
and reconstituted itself in a
manner..where its coefficient of friction is
severely reduced.
Standing on the bad and gridning it a tad on the
concrete under your foot
is one of those 'best practices' at the track to
clean that off if you
have issues with it.
Turning the rotor only does
two things when its not required because of
warping.
1) Removes
mass (doesnt SEEM like a lot..but it IS. This is why rotors
have
minimum thickness tolerances)
2) Removes that nice bedded in brake pad
material..which enhances pad
performance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:02:50
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>I got flamed pretty bad
the last time I said something disparaging about our
>car's brakes being
marginal.
>
Oh, yeah? Well, let me join in. I agree with Chuck: Our
brakes are pretty
marginal. They will stop you from 120 mph....ONCE. After
that, they are
history.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:26:08
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
One thing that crossdrilling
does (in a physics sense) is increase the
surface area of the rotor that is
available for heat transfer from the rotor
to the air (that's the area inside
the holes).
Agreed, MMatrix pads are not high performance, but they are
also better than
OEM (your original post). We drove on them for three
seasons and they don't
last well, they get gassy, and they dust a lot.
They will, however, stop
the car. I've graduated to Carbotech Panther
Pads, which were great for my
'93, but now had to have them custom made for
my '94 rear brakes. Dealer
wants me to try HPPlus pads, because I am
driving street and track. He
recommends HP Blue for track only
application, becasue he has had problems
with them flaking during street use,
because of the higher operating
temperature.
I like your idea of
standing on the pad and grinding it on the concrete!
That's a
keeper!
Chuck
(please don't be cross(drilled) with
me!)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [
SMTP:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:13 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
>
Cc: 'Geoff Mohler'; 'Kenneth Wells';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>
> > I
don't believe
> > the amount of material removed in crossdrilling makes
a significant
> > difference in the overall mass of the rotor, they
stil seem pretty heavy
> to
> > me.
> ---
> Your
welcome to your opinion too. Im just stating what physics are
>
involved..and they dont shift based on what the driver thinks. VR4
brakes
> on stock calipers a really just a tad too small for the car, and
every
> ounce counts.
>
> > Stillen Metal Matrix pads are
not OEM type but gas (a bunch).
> ---
>
> If you are using
MMatrix pads as a high-performance pad example..then we
> are both clearly
on different pages here. The Matrix pad aint high
>
performance. Ive melted two sets on supras, and theres been one
really
> cool meltdown on a S3K thats documented as well.
>
>
> at the hub doesn't really have anything to do with the
crossdrilling,
> > does
> > it? Mine has radial fracture
lines across one face in two places.
> ---
>
> Not really,
but non-cast drilling has shown in many cases..to be a
> cracking
problem. But it all depends on what you call "performance"
>
braking.
>
> > I got flamed pretty bad the last time I said
something disparaging about
> our
> > car's brakes being
marginal.
> ---
> Im not gonna flame ya..*grin*. But the VR4
brake setup is rather
> marginal.
>
>
> >
What do you mean by "glazing your pads"? Between events I clean my
pads
> > with solvent and scotch brite pads to remove glaze, and I turn
my rotors
> to
> > remove glaze. Glaze sounds "smooth"
which seems like the antithesis of
> > friction.
> ---
>
> Glaze is where the pad face has overheated and reconstituted itself in
a
> manner..where its coefficient of friction is severely reduced.
>
> Standing on the bad and gridning it a tad on the concrete under your
foot
> is one of those 'best practices' at the track to clean that off if
you
> have issues with it.
>
> Turning the rotor only does
two things when its not required because of
> warping.
>
> 1)
Removes mass (doesnt SEEM like a lot..but it IS. This is why
rotors
> have minimum thickness tolerances)
> 2) Removes that nice
bedded in brake pad material..which enhances pad
>
performance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:29:52
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
Rich,
In all fairness
to the flamers, it all depends on your application. I was
directed to a
Road and Track magazine article that showed 2nd generation
cars having the
shortest stopping distance among many cars. Since I still
haven't taken
the '94 to the track, I'm reserving judgement.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [
SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:03 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Geoff
Mohler'; Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: 'Kenneth Wells';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>
>
>
>I got flamed pretty bad the last time I said something disparaging
about
> our
> >car's brakes being marginal.
> >
>
Oh, yeah? Well, let me join in. I agree with Chuck: Our brakes are
pretty
> marginal. They will stop you from 120 mph....ONCE. After that,
they are
> history.
>
> Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:29:16
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>In all fairness to the
flamers, it all depends on your application. I was
>directed to a
Road and Track magazine article that showed 2nd generation
>cars having
the shortest stopping distance among many cars.
Yeah, once! Try it
again, with stock pads and rotors, and see what
happens.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:38:12
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
> One thing that
crossdrilling does (in a physics sense) is increase the
> surface area of
the rotor that is available for heat transfer from the rotor
> to the air
(that's the area inside the holes).
- ---
Which on a vented rotor is
negligible..you should work with cooling behind
the rotor..focing air into
the vanes.
> I like your idea of standing on the pad and
grinding it on the concrete!
> That's a keeper!
-
---
*grin*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:41:06
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
> directed to a Road and
Track magazine article that showed 2nd generation
- ---
One should
view magazine tests as highly speculative..and not real-world.
ya..it
stopped ok cold...but they dont do repeated stops.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:43:35
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield cryo treated rotors
>In all fairness to the
flamers, it all depends on your application. I was
>directed to a
Road and Track magazine article that showed 2nd generation
>cars having
the shortest stopping distance among many cars. Since I
still
>haven't taken the '94 to the track, I'm reserving
judgement.
This is true but don't ask anybody about the second or third
time one is
doing these tests !!!
He recently had the new Porsche
Bi-Turbo on a road track that was equipped
with the new ceramic compound
brakes. We did 5 100km/h - 0 tests and got no
fading nor any warping
feeling. But the setting is about 10k ... ouch. We
made back to back tests
with the Audi RS2 with the Porsche/Brembo calipers
and Porsche rotors
(standard equippment). This heavy car stopped well the
first three times but
then the fourth and fifth became significantly longer
(over 40 m !). I had
my car with the Bremsas two years ago on the same
testtrack and had the same
braking results as the Porsche Bi-Turbo (normal
brakes) what was about 36
meters. Also after the fith stop I was still
below 40 m but then the pads
got eaten up by the slotted and bored rotors.
Indeed the pads showed som
holes in them as the cracked out.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:07:39
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team 3S: Bad news...heads blown?
All,
Had a bad
Friday.
My car has been in and out of service for the last week and a
half, trying to get an issue resolved. When my car is hot, and I go to restart,
my idle will hunt for approx. 3 minutes, then things will level out. The dealer
told me it was my throttle body/injectors, and did a cleanup job/flush. I told
them I didn't have much faith in that prognosis, and sure enough, I was
correct.
Friday I took the car out, and sure enough the idle starting
going nuts again. I had already made another appointment at this point, but
ended up towing my car in Saturday instead. Turns out, while my idle was going
haywire, the temperature gauge peaked and the smell of coolant pervaded the air.
White smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. Needless to say, I was pretty
ticked.
FYI: The car is a 94 Stealth Turbo, with usual mods and stock
boost. 83000 miles on the clock.
I am awaiting info from the
dealership...Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:28:30
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Getrag individual parts available from Mitsu ??? !!!!
Unfortunately I got
negative responses from Tallahassee, Rockville,
AND West Broad. Besides the
Mitsu CAPS program, it was West Broad's
website @
http://www.westbroadmitsubishi.com/parts.htm
where I got
the parts numbers and prices from eg:
OEM Part Number:
MR166910
232345 Manual Transaxle - W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 1ST & 2ND
Synchronizer Hub
Assy, 3000 Gt $344.91
$310.42
OEM Part Number: MR166912
232327 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 3RD & 4TH Gear Synchronizer
Assy, 3000 Gt
$433.56 $390.20
It seems "cruel" to dangle these
Mitsu parts numbera (and retail/discount
prices !!)
in front of us if we
can't order them. I wonder if these parts might be
orderable
from a
Japanese or European Mitsu dealer ??
Mike.
94 TT,
black.
>From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
>
>My suspicion
is that those part numbers are for internal use only. I'm
>rather
surprised you got them. Some time back, Mitsubishi decided to
send
>their Getrag rebuilds to an outside firm whose name I can't
recall. It
>would make sense that this outside company would need
the original part
>numbers as a means to order to obtain replacements from
Getrag.
>
>Jeff V
>
jeffv@1nce.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:33:40
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Question
rich -
I mixed the wheels on my car
and didn't think about it... big mistake for me. Make sure that they are
the same tread on the tires. Its okay for different brands, but if they
aren't the same tread you'll fishtail and slide all over the place when it
rains. The problem isn't as bad when its dry, though its definately still
there (which means no racing on the roads if there's turns).
John
1994
3000GT VR-4
Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.comSend & receive large
files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:50:34
-0500
From: "Michael Chan" <
michael.chan@hummingbird.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS Error Codes
Hello List,
I've got the dreaded 'ABS
light is on all of the time' syndrome and I'm
trying to link this to an
insurance claim so I have to go to my dealer (ugh)
on this one. To be
brief, the passenger front fender of my Stealth was
crushed a few weeks
ago. My ABS light has been on since, however the stupid
dealer could
not find any error codes.
They cleared the codes and told me to bring the
car back after a couple of
days. Monday morning they told me that ABS
light was not on and no codes
were
showing. When I picked up the
car, the light was on and I forced the
manager to have someone look at it
again after hour.
They found the following...
52 Motor Relay
[related to the hydraulic unit?]
51 Valve Relay [related to the hydraulic
unit?]
55 ECU Error [???]
Anyone have any ideas what this could mean
or what I can expect? My ABS
Hydraulic Unit failed 1 week after my 5
year warranty expired. Chrysler
covered it then, now almost 5 years
later this it may be happening again!
I have a 91 Stealth RT/Turbo, HKS
intake, EVC IV, SSBV, Turbo
Exhaust
etc....
Thanks,
Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:20:55
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team 3S: Bad news...heads blown?
Idle hunting is a symptom of
one of a couple of things - notably 1) idle
servo controller failure - which
should cause a Trouble code and 2)
humongeous intake leak - I had this happen
with my '91 GSX - one of the
hoses leading to the intercooler was
disconnected.. "things leveling out"
is disturbing - it's like when the
car warms up, the problem disappears.
Coolant smell could easily be from the
overflow reservior if the engine got
hot as you said. Did the car get
it's water pump replaced when you did the
60K? Anybody do a compression
test yet?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Daniel Jett [
SMTP:djett@corp.ultratech.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 12:08 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Team 3S: Bad news...heads blown?
>
> All,
>
> Had a bad Friday.
>
> My car has been in and out of
service for the last week and a half, trying
> to get an issue resolved.
When my car is hot, and I go to restart, my idle
> will hunt for approx. 3
minutes, then things will level out. The dealer
> told me it was my
throttle body/injectors, and did a cleanup job/flush. I
> told them I
didn't have much faith in that prognosis, and sure enough, I
> was
correct.
>
> Friday I took the car out, and sure enough the idle
starting going nuts
> again. I had already made another appointment at
this point, but ended up
> towing my car in Saturday instead. Turns out,
while my idle was going
> haywire, the temperature gauge peaked and the
smell of coolant pervaded
> the air. White smoke started pouring out of
the exhaust. Needless to say,
> I was pretty ticked.
>
> FYI:
The car is a 94 Stealth Turbo, with usual mods and stock boost. 83000
>
miles on the clock.
>
> I am awaiting info from the
dealership...Any ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Dan
Jett
> 94 Stealth TT
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 14:49:32
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth
and 3000GT production numbers
I have my final production number totals
here. I'll get these
up on a website somewhere eventually.
These
numbers were derived by writing a program to scan the
C:\PASEN\SHARYO.IDX and
C:\PASEN\SHARYO.DAT files included
with the Mitsubishi CAPS program. After
fixing it up and
verifying the numbers every which way from Sunday, I
feel
reasonably confident these numbers are accurate.
I believe these
numbers represent production at the Nagoya
plant for Canada and the US only,
but I'm not sure about Europe.
The numbers I've seen elsewhere are sales
numbera only and
are incomplete in some areas.
It's possible to break
these numbers down further, but these
numbers will do for now.
(For
example, I'm the owner of one of 924 1994 Stealth R/T Turbo's.
Of those, ~125
were black, ~100 of those had the 27A interior, 41
of those had the C6B
option package, 14 of those were built for
Canada, and only 1 of those (mine)
was built in the 1st week of
February 1994.)
Note that some messing
with model year designations occurred.
For example, 1997 Spyders were
actually 96 (or 95?) Spyders,
according to their VINs and date of production.
Also, there
were no 1995 Stealth TT's produced (although I've heard
of
them and seen one). I suspect that any 1995 Stealth TT is
really a
left-over 1994 model (which still included the AWS).
I also suspect that
low demand and the changeover to the non-AWS
Stealth TT may have taken an
extra model year. If you have a 96
Stealth TT (only 57 made, none for
Canada), it's one of only 57
Stealth TT's without AWS.
Note of
interest: The first 2 Stealth TT's made for the 94 model year
have a very
unusual transmission code of "Q". I suspect these cars
MAY have been the long
rumored automatic transmission Stealth TT's.
Perhaps there were created for
testing and the initiative was
dropped. (Made for emissions testing and
didn't pass or transmission
had reliability problems or Chrsyler started
backing away from Mitsu?)
They were both made in June 1996 (93/06/1) and
the first had California
emissions and the second had Federal emissions. The
VINs and the codes
I found for them are:
JB3AN74K6RY000028
MQGFL7D 93/06/1 ? W29
17A
JB3AN74K8RY000029 MQGFL2D 93/06/1 Z17
Y99 27A
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
------
Dodge Stealth and Mitsubishi 3000GT production totals by
model year
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Model
Year 91
92 93 94
95 96 97
98 99
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stealth
17280 19696 15249 8444
4274 360
0 0
0
3000GT 9927 13233
12266 16103 15612 5135 5850
4758 3267
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total
27207 32929 27515 24547 19886
5495 5850 4758 3267
Grand Total all
Stealth and 3000GT: 151454
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
------
Dodge Stealth production totals by model year:
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Model
Year 91
92 93
94 95 96
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Base
4529 4811 6351
4346 2856
188
ES
5756 5283
5282 0
0
0
R/T
3979 5247 2317
2493 1418 115
R/T
Luxury 0
0 0
681 0
0
R/T Turbo 3016 4355
1299 924
0 57
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Total
17280 19696 15249
8444 4274 360
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Dodge
Stealth production totals for all years:
-
----------------------------------------------
Base
23081
ES
16321
R/T
15569
R/T Luxury
681
Turbo
9651
- ---------------------
Grand Total:
65303
These numbers match reasonably well with the sales numbers
reported
originally in the January-February 1996 edition of "Chrysler
Car
Enthusiast Engines etc ..." on page 8.
Those numbers can be found
on Santo Nucifora's old website at
http://stealth.senecac.on.ca/frames/production.html
or at Eric Bowden's
website at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/3s-production.html
.
Note that those numbers are sales by CALENDAR year, not model
year,
and the numbers for 95-96 (and probably 94) are incomplete.
Also note that
not all cars produced are sold, some probably get
driven off the pier and
some may be given away as gifts or destroyed.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
------
Mitsubishi 3000GT production (and reported sales) totals by
model year:
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Model
Year
91
92
93
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Base
364 (151) 1322 (1313)
5361
(5314)
SL
5870 (6015) 6964 (6877)
4310
(4271)
VR-4
3693 (3646) 4947 (4853)
2595 (2550)
SL
Spyder
0
0
0
VR-4
Spyder
0
0
0
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Total
9927 (9812) 13233 (13043) 12266 (12135)
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Unsold
115
190
131
-
------------------------------------------------------------
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Model
Year
94
95
96
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Base
8840 (8812) 9149 (9102)
3233
(3184)
SL
5613 (5570) 4245 (4167)
876
(835)
VR-4
1650 (1591) 1311 (1263)
315 (880)
SL
Spyder
0
376 (*)
365 (*)
VR-4
Spyder
0
531 (*)
346 (*)
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Total
16103 (15973) 15612 (14532) 5135 (4899)
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Unsold
130
1080
236
-
------------------------------------------------------------
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Model
Year
97
98
99
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Base
4055 (3810) 2916 (1427)
1936
(289)
SL
1285 (1553) 1611 (1036)
1044
(192)
VR-4
510 (646) 231
(156) 287 (45)
SL
Spyder
0
0
0
VR-4
Spyder
0
0
0
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Total
5850 (6009) 4758 (2619)
3267 (526)
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Unsold
-159
2139
2741
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Mitsubishi
3000GT production totals for all years:
-
--------------------------------------------------
Base
37176
SL
31818
VR-4
15539
SL Spyder 741
VR-4
Spyder 877
-
---------------------
Grand Total
86151
(!) Either about 200 base's were sold as SL's in 1991
or
the VINs for some SL's indicate they are
base's.
(*) Spyder sales figures appear to be scattered from 95-97 and
skew the
figures.
(*) Sales figures for 95 & 96 (& so called 97)
VR-4 Spyders appear to be
included in the
figures shown
for 95, 96 & 97 VR-4's.
(!) Some sales numbers were corrected due to
math errors.
The production numbers match reasonably well with the
sales numbers reported
by Stephanie Molaskey (Case Manager, Vehicle
Assistance) at Eric Bowden's
website at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/3s-production.html
.
Note that the sales numbers are sales by MODEL year, not
calendar
year, and the numbers for 98-96 (and probably 97) are
incomplete.
Also note that not all cars produced are sold, some probably
get
driven off the pier and some may be given away as gifts or
destroyed.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
------
Regards,
Mike.
94/02/1 Black TT, 27A interior, C6B option
package, Canadian.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#413
*********************