team3s
Saturday, February 17
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
410
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:05:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
Mikael,
Thanks for the great
info. You have mentioned in the past that you
and SL might market the 18T
hybrid as a kit. Are you still
considering this and what might the price
range be and the earliest
availability?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 16, 2001 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T
turbos???
Lag is not a problem with the 18T turbos (IMHO).
<snip>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:07:33
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Complete oilchange
> If my memory serves me, the tranny
and transaxle require
> about 2 quarts (or liters) total, 1/2 in
the transfer
> case and 1.5 in the tranny. The rear axle takes
about
> 1 quart. That means you need two quarts of the fluid
>
for the tranny/transfer case, which I use RedLine (I
> think it is "MT90"
which is really 75W90 GL-4) and one
> for the rear (I think I use RedLine
75W90 maybe
> GL-5?).
The transaxle actually takes more on the
order of 2.5 quarts (2.3 liters),
not 1.5 quarts. Transfer case is
right around 1/3 of a quart - you can use
the same lube in there, but I use
Redline shockproof heavy in my transfer
cases and have never had a
problem. It provides better gear cushioning
under heavy stresses (ie:
launching a heavy AWD car) than the typical stuff.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:31:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
Roger is very correct and I agree.
Boost (when measured in the plenum along with air temperature) is
an
absolute measure of air flow *if* VE is known. It is only a
relative
measurement otherwise. In my post I made many
simplifications
(including leaving out the ICs) concerning the temperature
and
density changes of air as it proceeds from the air intake to
the
cylinders. For those that are interested, I have more
complete
discussions that cover these points in detail and more at my two
web
pages below.
"A Pressurization Primer" at:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htm"3S
Turbo Upgrade Guide" at:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmI
guess my point was that there is not a "yes" or "no" answer to the
question
of how much boost a particular turbo can hold to redline. It
just depends (on
exhaust backpressure, head flow, IC efficiency and
heat soak, elevation,
turbo compressor efficiency, IC pipe
configuration, and other factors).
People who add 15G or larger
turbos rarely keep everything else stock on the
car. In fact, we are
doing what we can to *lower* boost pressure while
keeping air mass
flow *higher*. Lower pressure also means lower chances of
detonation.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 16, 2001 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T
turbos???
>Boost is NOT a measure of air flow; it measures
"backpressure" or
the
>inability of an engine to process the air
volume/mass being supplied
You may add that the term MAP (manifold
absolute pressure) to
correctly specifiy what is meant. From the point of cfm
, boost is a
measure of air flow for sure as the pressure is a multiplying
factor
for the airflow amount. I think it is necessary to tell that
an
engine "sucks" in air volume/mass and without any pressure applied
to
it. The more air will be supplied (compressed by a charging system)
the
more pressure will be found in the manifold. This finally results
in more
airflow measured at the intake.
>So can 15Gs hold 20 psi to redline?
Quite possibly in a stock
engine.
>But I hope not in a modified
6G72.
I think this is too easy to be said ! What about the loss in the
intercoolers and every bend in the tubing ? The higher the airflow,
the
more restrictive become these parts and play an important rule.
We currently
do not have any pressure measuring in the intercooler
pipings and therefore
do not know the real loss and my guess is up to
3 psi at 20psi and may be
lower on a good FMIC. This loss is not
linear and therefore hard to be
calculated. Therefore when we need 20
psi in the manifold, the turbos must
produce 23 psi. Therefore I
think we must ask "can the turbos hold 23 psi to
the redline ?"
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch__________________________________________________
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:38:58
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
Håkan,
Some of your questions are
answered at my web page below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htmThat
page and many more can be found from the Garage Page at my
web
site.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.comPS. It's funny
how posts don't arrive in chronological order
sometimes.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <Håkan Johansson>; "Vreten AB" <
hakan@vreten.se>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 10:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: Complete
oilchange
First, excuse my bad english.
Is there a page on the web
that describes a complete
oilchange(tranny, front/rear diff and so on) on a
-93 3000GT VR-4? If
not, what oils should I use and how much is needed for
each thing?
Are there any seals that needs to be replaced when removing
the
plugs?
best regards
Håkan Johanssson //
Sweden
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:22:55
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbo exhaust system question
> I sent this message the other
day and didn't get much a response, so I
> thought I'd try it one more
time. :)
Probably because it's pretty well covered in the archives.
Here's a keeper
from Roger Gerl:
> Well, the exhaust path
is not critical before the turbo as one should
know
> what keeps
the turbine wheel turning. It's the pressure difference
between
>
before and after the turbine ! So the higher the pressure before and
the
> lower the exhaust backpressure after the wheel the better the
efficiency
of
> the system ! This is why an open exhaust after
the turbine outlet is what
> is the best for high rpm while some
backpressure should be there on the
low
> rpm basis where the
turbine doesn't act as a big restriction and the
engine
>
produces more tourque due to the backpressure.
>
> There are
many restrictions that can be found in the path but this is how
> an
engine is built. Some parts are designed for mass-production and
>
improvement can be found. Just have a look on my project page and one
can
> see the exhaust path after the valve and how it can be
improved to
prevent
> restrictions and especially turbulences
(our biggest emeny outside the
> mufflers)
>
>
After the turbos, every bend in the piping acts like a restriction
and
the
> IC itselfs is the biggest as it acts as a slow-down for
the air stream.
> Correctly said, the stream stays the same but
pressure is slower built up
> on a large intercooler.
>
Then there is a trhottle-body with the plate that is a restriction
again
> that causes heavy turbulence.
> Now enter the
intake plenum and find the rear core that allows to keep
> enough
pressure to provide a balanced feed to the cylinders. Of course,
>
this would be much better with a central or double feed.
> Then the
entries of the runners, not the best thing in the world but how
>
would one do it better for the mass ?
> The runners lead to the
intake manifold where we find a thin gasket that
is
> larger than
the openings. Gasket matching the 6 channels helps in
> increasing
the amount of air traveling per minute. Increasing the size of
> the
runners would increase the amount too but the same time the speed
is
> decreased what would result in an necessity to change the
lenght of the
> runners too !
> Finally the path leads
to the intake valves, where still a good
turbulence
> free
mixture flow is needed.
> The stock injectors do help in this case
as they do have a dual spray
> pattern. No larger injector does this
and therefore is not optimal as it
> sprays to the wall between the
valves. Work on this part for the
increased
> pressure and amount
of mixture. It should be machined to get the edge
more
> far away
from the injector. This is also due to the fact that most
>
injectors are longer at their nozzle and do create more turbulence
than
> expected.
> Finally the path to the valves is now
optimized and the valve design
gives
> the intake stream the
necessary swirl to provide an optimal filling of
the
> chamber.
This can only be provided by a good fast stream with a high
>
velocity sent above the shape of the valve body.
> For the outlet
speed is also interesting, as the chamber should be
> evaporated as
fast as possible. The exhaust manifold then doesn't play a
> big
rule, at least not in our cars, as the turbine housing is what
acts
as
> the biggest restriction. Before the turbine housing the
pressure gets
> increased and pushes against the turbine wheel. The
wheel then turns and
> the exhaust gases speed up in their velocity.
The smaller diameter to the
> turbine increases this while pressure
stays the same or even increases
due
> to the increasing rpm. But
if pressure becomes too high, the temperature
> quickly rises and
hits back into the chamber causing a lean situation...
> what leads
to detonation. This can be seen on high EGT as an example.
now,
>
the exhaust manifold can be designed in many different ways, Kenne
Bells
> "Maximum Boost" gives a good description in that
case.
>
> Finally, if one does a modification to the intake or
exhaust he always
> should do the whole path because onyl the
combination of these rules. So
it
> isn't necessary to improve
the exhaust part when there is no more mixture
> that can be filled
in !
>
> Happy porting,
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch- - --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Porterfield cryo-treated
rotors, R4S pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:28:09
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch opinion???
> My stock clutch just cannot handle the 14
PSI of boost anymore [ ... ]
> As of now, my only engine mods are K&N
air filter and Apexi boost
controller.
I have the same mods and the
OEM clutch has lasted 81k miles so far, 47k
stock, the rest at .95 - 1.00
bar. How much wear does a clutch endure once
it's engaged? I
would expect most of the wear to be due to slippage.
Perhaps that explains
the discrepancy?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Porterfield cryo-treated
rotors, R4S pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 12:15:52
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Getrag
individual parts available from Mitsu ??? !!!!
I'm VERY that surprised
nobody has responded to this...
Funny, I also noticed that tranny parts
were listed just last
week while looking for my 60k parts. Could it be true
?? !! :)
I've sent emails to Rockville, West Broad and Tallahasee so I
guess
I'll find out in 2-4 days.
>Time and time again I have read
that Kormex is one of if not the only
>place to get synchros for our
transmissions, but I was looking
>through West Broad Mistubishi's web site
and they have the synchros
>listed as for sale and have prices on them
($153). Do they not stock
>these synchros, or is this a new item
they have listed? I haven't
>contacted them yet to see if we can
order them, but I will soon. My
>VR4 has 58K on it. We all
know what that means. :(
Ths Mitsu CAPS program shows that 3-4, 5-6
and reverse synchros have
part numbers, but the picture is blank except for
text that says
"Component parts for this manual transmission are not
serviced."
I tried some close part numbers and found there may be other
parts
also, such as 1-2 synchros (!!).
Below is the list of parts I
see on West Broad's website:
Part ID Part Description List Price Your
Price Action
OEM Part Number: MR166912
232327 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 3RD & 4TH Gear Synchronizer
Assy, 3000 Gt $433.56
$390.20
OEM Part Number: MR166911
232332 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 5TH & 6TH Gear Synchronizer
Kit, 3000 Gt $433.56
$390.20
OEM Part Number: MR166913
232350 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, Reverse Gear Synchronizer Kit,
3000 Gt $428.47
$385.62
OEM Part Number: MR166910
232345 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 1ST & 2ND Synchronizer Hub
Assy, 3000 Gt $344.91
$310.42
OEM Part Number: MR166909
232353 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, Intermediate Gear Bearing, 3000
Gt $51.36
$46.22
OEM Part Number: MR166908
232338 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, Reverse Idler Gear Bearing,
3000 Gt $14.53
$13.08
OEM Part Number: MR166900
232351 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, Intermediate Shaft Reverse
Gear, 3000 Gt $226.92
$204.23
OEM Part Number: MR166901
232348 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, Intermediate Shaft 5TH Speed
Gear, 3000 Gt $291.53
$262.38
OEM Part Number: MR166902
232349 Manual Transaxle -
W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, Intermediate Shaft 6TH Speed
Gear, 3000 Gt $291.53
$262.38
Mike.
94 R/T TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:41:05
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo exhaust system question
After looking on Roger's page a
little, here's the order of restrictions
I
found:
Precats
Downpipe
Cat-back
Main Cat
I've
already done the precats, so I looks like the next step is a
new
downpipe.
Thanks!
- - Brian
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jim Matthews [
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:23 AM
> To: Geddes, Brian J
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo exhaust system question
>
>
>
> I sent this message the other day and didn't get much a
> response,
so I
> > thought I'd try it one more time. :)
>
> Probably
because it's pretty well covered in the archives.
> Here's a
keeper
> from Roger Gerl:
>
>
> > Well, the
exhaust path is not critical before the turbo as
> one should
>
know
> > what keeps the turbine wheel turning. It's the pressure
difference
> between
> > before and after the turbine ! So
the higher the pressure
> before and the
> > lower the
exhaust backpressure after the wheel the better
> the efficiency
>
of
> > the system ! This is why an open exhaust after the turbine
> outlet is what
> > is the best for high rpm while some
backpressure should be
> there on the
> low
> > rpm
basis where the turbine doesn't act as a big
> restriction and
the
> engine
> > produces more tourque due to the
backpressure.
> >
> > There are many restrictions that
can be found in the path
> but this is how
> > an engine
is built. Some parts are designed for mass-production and
> >
improvement can be found. Just have a look on my project
> page and one
can
> > see the exhaust path after the valve and how it can be
improved to
> prevent
> > restrictions and especially
turbulences (our biggest emeny
> outside the
> >
mufflers)
> >
> > After the turbos, every bend in the
piping acts like a
> restriction and
> the
> > IC
itselfs is the biggest as it acts as a slow-down for
> the air
stream.
> > Correctly said, the stream stays the same but
pressure is
> slower built up
> > on a large
intercooler.
> > Then there is a trhottle-body with the plate
that is a
> restriction again
> > that causes heavy
turbulence.
> > Now enter the intake plenum and find the rear
core that
> allows to keep
> > enough pressure to provide
a balanced feed to the
> cylinders. Of course,
> > this
would be much better with a central or double feed.
> > Then the
entries of the runners, not the best thing in the
> world but how
>
> would one do it better for the mass ?
> > The runners
lead to the intake manifold where we find a
> thin gasket that
>
is
> > larger than the openings. Gasket matching the 6 channels
helps in
> > increasing the amount of air traveling per minute.
> Increasing the size of
> > the runners would increase
the amount too but the same
> time the speed is
> >
decreased what would result in an necessity to change the
> lenght of
the
> > runners too !
> > Finally the path leads
to the intake valves, where still a good
> turbulence
> >
free mixture flow is needed.
> > The stock injectors do help in
this case as they do have a
> dual spray
> > pattern. No
larger injector does this and therefore is not
> optimal as it
>
> sprays to the wall between the valves. Work on this part for
the
> increased
> > pressure and amount of mixture. It
should be machined to
> get the edge
> more
> > far
away from the injector. This is also due to the fact that most
>
> injectors are longer at their nozzle and do create more
>
turbulence than
> > expected.
> > Finally the path
to the valves is now optimized and the
> valve design
>
gives
> > the intake stream the necessary swirl to provide an
> optimal filling of
> the
> > chamber. This can
only be provided by a good fast stream
> with a high
> >
velocity sent above the shape of the valve body.
> > For the
outlet speed is also interesting, as the chamber should be
> >
evaporated as fast as possible. The exhaust manifold then
> doesn't play
a
> > big rule, at least not in our cars, as the turbine housing
> is what acts
> as
> > the biggest restriction.
Before the turbine housing the
> pressure gets
> >
increased and pushes against the turbine wheel. The wheel
> then turns
and
> > the exhaust gases speed up in their velocity. The smaller
> diameter to the
> > turbine increases this while
pressure stays the same or
> even increases
> due
>
> to the increasing rpm. But if pressure becomes too high,
> the
temperature
> > quickly rises and hits back into the chamber
causing a
> lean situation...
> > what leads to
detonation. This can be seen on high EGT as
> an example.
>
now,
> > the exhaust manifold can be designed in many different
> ways, Kenne Bells
> > "Maximum Boost" gives a good
description in that case.
> >
> > Finally, if one does a
modification to the intake or
> exhaust he always
> >
should do the whole path because onyl the combination of
> these rules.
So
> it
> > isn't necessary to improve the exhaust part
when there is
> no more mixture
> > that can be filled in
!
> >
> > Happy porting,
> >
Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch>
>
> - --
>
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super
Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830
Battery
> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff=
SPHvy)
> Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, R4S pads, braided lines
>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,
354 lb-ft torque
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 12:13:00
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: H&R spacer kit install (= 1st gen VR4 wheels / snow tires for
sale)
I'm lumping a couple of responses together since they're
related..
Oskar wrote:
+>
+> what part of the wheel was
touching the caliper? Is it the inside of the
+> spokes? Also,
what thickness of the spacer? Must have been the 5mm? I
+>
would assume the 15mm would create enough clearance.
The spokes clear
just fine on the inside. Going from memory, I think
there are 2
"ledges" behind the spokes. The first was what I initially
saw as the
problem, and clears fine once you space the wheel out ~6mm
or more.
The second is what I didn't realize was still going to be a
problem. I
used the 15mm spacers, but the second clearance problem can't
(realistically)
be eliminated by spacers. I'm sure this isn't going to
make make sense
unless I get a picture of it. I'll try to do so over the
weekend.
Roger wrote:
+>
+> >recap: I bought an
H&R spacer kit for 2 reasons. 1) to help correct
+>
> the understeer problem our
cars have, and 2) to allow me to fit
+>
> first gen 17" VR4 wheels
that I bought with snow tires..
+>
+> To be honest, this is not a
solution for oyur problems.
+>
+> If your car is experiencing too
much understeer then you may change the
+> wheel alignement as well as
your driving style and how you take the turns.
+> After I went to the
racing school, the car "lost" its understeer as I
+> learned how to use
the AWD. The spacers may help a little but is definitely
+> not THE
solution. Especially when you now are experiencing oversteer, what
+> is
not easier to control than understeer.
well, that's why I asked the
question a couple weeks ago. Nobody stepped
up and said it was a bad
idea. It was mostly an issue of trying to
accomplish 2 objectives at
once, although probably not the best way.
+>
+> >Moral of
the sotry: I'm the idiot here to tell everyone once and for all,
+>
>1st gen wheels don't fit 2nd gen calipers even with spacers.
+>
+> Regarding the wheels, many of us run stock 17" on 2nd gen cars with
larger
+> brakes. Even more the European 1st gen cars all came with 2nd
gen brakes
+> and stock 17" wheels so I'd say that the wheels are 16" of
the early 1st
+> gens or just not original Mitsubishi ones. Do you have
any pictures of them
+> on the car including where they touch the
calipers ? Have you tried both
+> sides ?
From what I've gathered
in wheel discussions, there must be an interior
clearance difference in stock
17" wheels between the 91-93 VR4 style, and
some 94+ styles. I believe
people have no problems with (obviously) a 94
VR4 17" or the 97-99 SL wheels
clearing 2nd gen VR4 calipers. I can't say
for any of the Stealth
wheels. I suppose maybe the euro VR4 wheels are
different as
well.
Um, 16" wheels? come on Roger.. I can read the
markings on the tires
(and wheels).. ;) I even wrote in the
initial message that the wheel/tire
set (245/45/17) are now for
sale.. And yes, for sure they are original
factory Mitsubishi VR4
wheels. I was too pissed off to take pictures
at the time,
although now I wish I had as it would probably make more sense
to show you
all the problem area. I didn't try both sides. I figured if
one
side didn't clear, it probably didn't matter if the other one did.
:)
Again, going from memory the point of contact is now at the top
outer-most
"corner". It's probably close enough that you could shave
down the
caliper surface by ~2-3mm and be ok, but I don't know just how much
thickness there is in the material at that point. Not sure it would
be
worth it regardless.
Like I said, I'll try to get some pictures if
I find time over the weekend.
Otherwise, if someone has a good clear picture
of the interior of a stock
91-93 VR4 17" wheel, let me know where to find it,
and I can doctor it
up with arrows to show the problem.
also, before I
got the spacer idea, I was going to sell the wheels anyway,
so I did take
pics of a wheel and tire. Anyone interested in the set can
check them
out at:
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/wheels.html
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87
Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:18:54
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Getrag
individual parts available from Mitsu ??? !!!!
Here's the response I got
from Shawn at Tallahassee:
That part number for the synchro assy
is no good in my computer.
Mitsubishi still does not have internal parts
available for the getrag
trannys.
Sorry.
Shawn
Michael Reid wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Can you
tell me if you stock or can get the following Mitsubishi part ?
>
> OEM Part Number: MR166910
> 232345 Manual Transaxle - W/A.W.D. 6
Speed, 1ST & 2ND Synchronizer Hub
> Assy, 3000 Gt
>
> I
was under the impression that Mitsubishi did not sell individual parts
for
the
> Getrag 5 and 6 speeds in the 3000GT VR-4 . If we CAN now buy these,
many
3000GT
> and Stealth owners will be very happy.
>
>
Thank you,
> Mike Reid.
Now why would Mitsu create a part number
if you can't get the part ? I'm
wondering it Mitsu's contract with Getrag has
run out ?
Mike.
94 R/T TT.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 12:57:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
The flow maps show a huge lag problem
when compared to the 15G.
I'll use a map to judge useful RPM ranges on a
turbo..if you dont mind.
No offense..but the maps tell the story without
prejudice.
On Fri, 16 Feb 2001, Mikael Kenson wrote:
> Lag is
not a problem with the 18T turbos (IMHO). Spool up is very quick, actually it's
so quick that the boost controller have a hard time trying to keep the boost
down. (waste gate needs to be ported) With the stock turbos you had to shift at
5500 or the boost would creep down now I can rev to 7500 under full boost so the
engine actually has a much wider and nicer working range now. I love the feel of
this engine :) I also changed to autronic engine management system so now I'm
running full sequential and that really helped drivability. Smothe idle and very
crisp revving. This is the way the engine should have been from the
factory.
>
> Since I haven't done any 402 runs with timing yet I
don't know what kind of times to expect but by "butt dyno" I think next summers
timeslips will be interesting... (the Gtech 0-60 are .5 sec quicker now)
>
> I plan (not sure yet) to change the small mitsu exhaust housings to a
bigger size 7 housings, I don't think this will hurt spool up very much but it
will help keeping the temp down and inprove top end power.
> I will also
use performance cams and ported heads.
>
> /Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu>
>
>
*** Info:
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>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:58:10
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Getrag individual parts available from Mitsu ??? !!!!
My suspicion is
that those part numbers are for internal use only. I'm
rather surprised
you got them. Some time back, Mitsubishi decided to send
their Getrag
rebuilds to an outside firm whose name I can't recall. It
would make
sense that this outside company would need the original part
numbers as a
means to order to obtain replacements from Getrag. So when the
manual
says "This assembly is not serviceable" that translates to
"not
DEALERSHIP or CUSTOMER serviceable". I believe that Mitsu was concerned
with
the quality of the rebuilds due to the tight tolerances of the
gearbox,
hence the "non-serviceable" status. But the trannies have been
rebuilt in
the past and will continue to be for some time.
Jeff
V
jeffv@1nce.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:04:12
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch opinion???
>
>Whatever you do, stay away from
RPS. I'm on number 4-5? This clutch is
>and has
been sitting at RPS since November 12ish (I'd have to look
the
exact
>date up) I have no updates from RPS regarding this
clutch.
>
I would say that if alot of people are having problems with
RPS, buy OEM. I
have an RPS classic (stage I?) Turbo clutch on my car
for the last
30,000miles. My cars a daily driver and the clutch pedal
can get pretty
tiring in bumper to bumper traffic for about an hour at a time
each day. My
left leg is bigger then my right! It grabs pretty
damn hard out of first
though, and my car can maintain about 12-15 psi in
first from about 4-6500
rpm. Usually, the tires break loose (or I hit
1.22 kg/cm2 and hit fuel cut
where the car backfires). This clutch can
handle a hard slip from about
4500rpm. Anything higher and it will just
keep slipping. In short, its a
very aggressive street clutch, but the
stock one felt the same when it was
new (lasted 60,000 miles!!). Good
luck!
Sam
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:13:58
-0500
From: "Karl Siebert" <
ksiebert@gow.org>
Subject: Team3S:
Changing trans fluid
Ok, I have a 91 stealth ES, and need to change the
trannie fluid. I know
that there are some links that tell how
(generally), but I need to hear from
somebody that has done it. Where
exactly is the fill plug? (a pic would be
great), where is the drain
plug? What is the total capacity? What are the
torques of the
bolts? What is the reccommended fluid to use (synthetic, or
regular,
and what grade)? The more information, the better, and thanks
in
advance!
Karl
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:01:48
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Changing trans fluid
Karl -- I believe Jeff Lucius' page
tells all. If not then it links to
many, many others (User pages and
things) who would have this. I keep
finding his site and this list more
and more invaluable everyday. Great
conversions into Spanish,
Jeff. I don't need it but it shows the care you
have taken for your
page.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius<
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius>
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Siebert [
mailto:ksiebert@gow.org]
Sent: Friday,
February 16, 2001 20:14
Ok, I have a 91 stealth ES, and need to change
the trannie fluid. I know
that there are some links that tell how
(generally), but I need to hear from
somebody that has done it. Where
exactly is the fill plug? (a pic would be
great), where is the drain
plug? What is the total capacity? What are the
torques of the
bolts? What is the reccommended fluid to use (synthetic, or
regular,
and what grade)? The more information, the better, and thanks
in
advance!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:33:59
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
15G vs 18T turbos???
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
Mikael Kenson <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
>
> The
flow maps show a huge lag problem when compared to the 15G.
>
>
I'll use a map to judge useful RPM ranges on a turbo..if you dont mind.
>
Huge lag problem ?!?!?!?! ---- the 18T show a little increase in
lag, the 368 has what could
be construed as a huge increase in
lag.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 23:45:37
-0600
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
15G vs 18T turbos???
I went for a ride with Mikael last fall. There
is NO problem with lag.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
>
>
>
Huge lag problem ?!?!?!?! ---- the 18T show a little increase in lag, the
368
has what could
> be construed as a huge increase in
lag.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
>
*** Info:
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*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 15:56:58
-1000
From: Michael Korsinczky <
m.korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au>
Subject:
Team3S: maximum performance from standard turbos
Hi
I have just
brought in a 1992 twin turbo GTO from Japan to Australia. I
want to
know what is the maximum performance I can obtain with
standard
turbos.
I had the heads polished and ported and a VRS head
gasket kit fitted
last week. It already had an Apexi Super Megaphone
exhaust. I am
having it dyno tuned and boosted next week and am
wondering what is the
safest boost to obtain maximum horsepower.
It has
also been lowered 2 inches and has 18 inch volk racing rims. I
also
have a GTR front mount intercooler arriving next week for it.
I don't
want to spend much more.
What is the safest maximum horsepower I can
achieve and what sort of
quarter miles will it
run.
Michael
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 07:20:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: maximum performance from standard turbos
"What is the safest
maximum horsepower I can achieve?"
Safest? Then it is that HP amount
where knock is not a problem. With
your '92 you can hook up a TMO and G-Tech
and then tell us. The stock
turbos and fuel system may support about 400 bhp;
whether that level
is safe for your car you will have to determine. You can
of course
"safely" increase net bhp by decreasing losses - blueprint
and
balance block, lightweight drivetrain components, better
flowing
exhaust, better efficiency ICs, WI, etc.
Roger Gerl's and Jim
Matthews' web sites show the results of some
dyno sessions with stock and
other turbos. Those links and 700 more
(including about 270 3S owners) are
found on the HUGE Links page at
my web site.
Off Topic: Michael, is it
true that GTOs do not have O2 sensors?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Korsinczky" <
m.korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, February 17, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: maximum performance from
standard turbos
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End of team3s V1
#410
*********************
