team3s
Friday, February 16
2001 Volume 01
: Number
409
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:43:33 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo exhaust system question
> I sent this message the
other day and didn't get much a
> response, so I thought I'd try it one
more time. :)
The short answer is: it is all restrictive.
Reducing backpressure on the
exhaust side of the turbo will reduce turbo lag,
and reduce pumping losses.
I'd say if you are looking for
bang-for-the-buck, go this order:
Clean out the precats, or replace with
suitable piping.
Replace cat-back
Replace downpipe
Replace main cat
with a high-flow cat
Replace turbos with less restrictive
exhaust-side
...something along those lines. I think you'll find
some disagreement about
what parts are most restrictive though. I
personally don't think you see
much improvement until you do the whole thing,
although it definitely
"sounds" faster with just a cat-back system.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
(Borla cat-back, high-flow cat, Alamo
Downpipe, low-restriction pre-cats,
15G turbos)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:59:52
-0600
From: S J Cowan <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cold Air
Hey all:
I have recently been under the
hood
relocating my modified Summit Racing PCV Breather System. I have
found
a small "hole" on the drivers side of the intercooler hoses which
seems
to
work nicely. However, I continue to stare at my HKS Dual Mega Flow
and
question the temperature of the air going in there. I also
continue
to
review the stock airbox design in my mind and the tube that
extends from
it, which to my memory puts it above the ABS pump and behind
the
passenger pop up headlight assembly. I have been seriously
considering
adapting that old
tube and/or using an intake from my shop vac
and some tubing to build a
directional cold air flow stream from this same
location. I guess what I
am
trying to say is that maybe, just maybe,
the stock air box design does
allow for colder air vs. the HKS, and a
combination of the two may not be
that far away. I am suggeting a
simple funnel, not a closed up system.
Anyone have any thoughts on
this? Fry? Beuller? Blank, blank D O O
economics?
Anyone?
Best,
SJ
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:13:32
-0500
From: Mark W <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
Injectors
I have 8 450cc injectors from DSM cars. I plan to run
them this year,
replacing them next year when I replace my turbos. My
problem is that 1
set of injectors is from a first gen. talon and the other
is from a second
gen. Both sets are rated at 450cc/min but they have
different ends on
them. The first gen have a single hole, and the
second gen have what
appears to be 2 holes (or nearly, like there is a split
in the hole). Is
there an issue with running these injectors?
Should I just go get a set of
either first or second gen so I have a
complete set all the same? Is there
a way to change the end of the
injectors so they have the same spray pattern?
Thanks in advance for any
insights.
Mark
'93 R/T TT
PS. Use the following links for
pics of the injectors side by side.
http://binka.x.siscom.net/images/side.jpghttp://binka.x.siscom.net/images/outletnozzles.jpghttp://binka.x.siscom.net/images/top.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:13:54
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Question regarding rebuilding brake calipers
I was wondering if we would
ever need to rebuild our brake calipers.
I know the housings are made of
alumium and didn't know if they had a steel
sheve in them, or not, or if it
was machined alumium. If they are not
steel, then we won't have to
worry about rust forming in and around the
piston and effecting the
seals.
A friend of mine doesn't drive his car very much during the winter
and was
wondering if this was a concern.
I remember when you needed to
change pads on the older cars that, when you
pushed the piston back in, if
there was any rust, in time it would eat up
the seals and they would start to
leak. I didn't know if this was a problem
any longer or not. I
just have never heard of anyone having to rebuild the
caliper on our cars and
was just wondering if we ever needed to do it.
Thanks,
Dave
Best
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:44:34
-0500
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Knock sensor question?
I ran to the top end of third gear this
morning and got a knock sum of 2 briefly.
So it looks like stock knock sensor
is working. I thought I would see more knock
activity thats why I felt the
knock sensor was bad. I have to turn the MSD 3/4 of
the way to see any
noise at all.
rushvr4
Roger Gerl wrote:
> >I am in
the middle of calibraiting my MSD knock sensor with my new TMO
>
>datalogger.I am running in DOS because the computer is old, I just got
it
> >up and
> >running and saw that the TMO is seeing 0 sum
for knock. This is a brand new
> >motor with JE pistons that have been
coated by HPC and 15c turbos running @ 12
> >psi no cats and a BORLA
exhaust with dual EGTS @ the manifolds. It looks
> >like I
>
>should have replaced the knock sensor when I had the chance.
>
>
Why replacing the knock sensor ? I'm not seeing any knock until 15 psi
on
> my "old" engine too. And at 12 psi with the larger turbos what
results in
> lower combustion temperatures I would be worried if I'd see
any sign of
> knock above a sum of 10.With your setup, you should not see
any knock as
> you also have upgraded thefuel system for sure (why else
would you run
> larger turbos).
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 00:00:33
-0500
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?H=E5kan_Johansson=2C_Vreten_AB?= <
hakan@vreten.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Complete oilchange
First, excuse my bad english.
Is there a page
on the web that describes a complete oilchange(tranny, front/rear diff and so
on) on a -93 3000GT VR-4? If not, what oils should I use and how much is needed
for each thing? Are there any seals that needs to be replaced when removing the
plugs?
best regards
Håkan Johanssson //
Sweden
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:26:49
-0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Complete oilchange
>Is there a page on the web that describes
a complete oilchange(tranny,
front/rear diff and so on) on a -93 3000GT VR-4?
If not, what oils should I
use and how much is needed for each thing? Are
there any seals that needs to
be replaced when removing the
plugs?
Team 3S-
In the same vein, I read somewhere on this list
that Red Line has said that
their
lubricants (MT-90, I guess), should not
be used in the Getrag transaxels.
Is
this a fact? Thanks in
advance.
Regards,
ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:30:53
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Complete oilchange
My tranny was recently replaced with a
rebuilt one and refurnished with Red
Line MT-90 oil. The gears feel
"gummy" (as if there is sap or syrup in the
transmission gears instead of
oil). Can anyone with a replaced tranny tell
me if this works itself in
after some time or should I take it back to have
it looked at?
Tranny
was replaced about 1,000 miles ago and I've done 50/50 city
driving/open road
driving. No high-speed shifts that broke my synchro have
been done
either.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ replaced tranny and new clutch at 52k
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul T. Golley [
mailto:ptgolley@hiwaay.net]
Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 18:27
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
>Is there a page on the web that
describes a complete oilchange(tranny,
front/rear diff and so on) on a -93
3000GT VR-4? If not, what oils should I
use and how much is needed for each
thing? Are there any seals that needs to
be replaced when removing the
plugs?
Team 3S-
In the same vein, I read somewhere on this list
that Red Line has said that
their
lubricants (MT-90, I guess), should not
be used in the Getrag transaxels.
Is
this a fact? Thanks in
advance.
Regards,
ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:46:48
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
Let's put this "don't use Red Line in our
cases" nonsense to rest!
I just got off the phone with David at Red Line
(707-745-6100). He
said Red Line MTL and MT-90 are perfectly fine to use in
our AWD
transaxles and transfer cases. He recommends a blend of 1/1 or 3/2
of
MTL/MT-90. The blend is only to reduce the viscosity a little to
comply
with Mitsu's recommended fluid (Hypoid Gear Oil, SAE 75W-90 or
75W-85W
conforming to API classification GL-4). MTL is rated 70W80
GL4 and MT-90 is
rated 75W90 GL-4.
I hope this is the last word on this subject.
:)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Complete
oilchange
<snip>
Team 3S-
In the same vein, I read somewhere on
this list that Red Line has
said that their lubricants (MT-90, I guess),
should not be used in
the Getrag transaxels. Is this a fact? Thanks in
advance.
Regards,
ptg
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:14:35
-0800
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Eibach Pro Kit Springs Instalation $$$
Hello all,
A while back,
some of you mentioned that the instalation costs on the
Eibach Pro Kit
Spirngs should be around 2 hours worth of labor, which
would put it at about
$120 tops. I have been looking around (and not at
dealers) and the best
prices I have found have been $160 and $200 (after
barganing, since he
started at $300). My question is: for those of you
who paid someone to
change their springs, how much did you pay??? I
just want to know if I
am overpaying, and if so if I should keep
looking. If anybody in the
Detroit area has any info, that would be
greatly appreciated, but off coarse
anybody is welcome to give me
feedback like always. Thanks in
advance.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:56:47
-0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question regarding rebuilding brake calipers
>I remember
when you needed to change pads on the older cars that, when you
>pushed
the piston back in, if there was any rust, in time it would eat up
>the
seals and they would start to leak. I didn't know if this was
a
problem
>any longer or not. I just have never heard of anyone
having to rebuild the
>caliper on our cars and was just wondering if we
ever needed to do it.
I did a rebuild on mine when the rubber boots had
cracked. It is not very
difficult
to do, but costs about $40 per
caliper. I don't recall getting new pistons
in the
kit; I think it
was just the seals and clips and O rings which mount halfway
down the
pistons. I learned by trial and error that the pistons (VR4)
are
different sizes
and the O rings and clips are designed for that.
The small pistons are
first to
grip as the rotor rotates past the
caliper.
I didn't have any pitting on the pistons on my 91 VR4 and the O
rings were
still
in good condition. The rubber boots are really just
dust caps, the fluid is
held back
by the O rings alone.
Jim
91
VR4
95 VR4 Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:54:15
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
>I hope this is the last word on this
subject. :)
>
You gotta be kidding. It's an "evergreen"
topic.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:53:13
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Complete oilchange
Well my point is that the Red Line is
already in the tranny so I can't do
anything about that. However,
should I complain about the "gumminess" of
the shifting or will this wear in
after a month or several thousand miles?
First and Second aren't bad as I use
these all the time. Fifth and Sixth
are very hard to shift into and out
of and Reverse is also tricky. Could
something not be lined up
correctly making the shifting difficult?
I had the tranny in my ex-Honda
Accord changed (I know it is different) but
it was smooth as silk when I got
it back. This is very difficult and
aggravating to shift through so was
looking for advice.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 18:47
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc: Paul
T. Golley
Subject: Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
Let's put this
"don't use Red Line in our cases" nonsense to rest!
I just got off the
phone with David at Red Line (707-745-6100). He
said Red Line MTL and MT-90
are perfectly fine to use in our AWD
transaxles and transfer cases. He
recommends a blend of 1/1 or 3/2 of
MTL/MT-90. The blend is only to reduce
the viscosity a little to
comply with Mitsu's recommended fluid (Hypoid Gear
Oil, SAE 75W-90 or
75W-85W conforming to API classification GL-4). MTL is
rated 70W80
GL4 and MT-90 is rated 75W90 GL-4.
I hope this is the last
word on this subject. :)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:33:10
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: H&R spacer kit install (= 1st gen VR4 wheels / snow tires for
sale)
recap: I bought an H&R spacer kit for 2 reasons. 1)
to help correct
the understeer
problem our cars have, and 2) to allow me to fit
first gen 17" VR4 wheels that I
bought with snow tires..
well, fooey..
I spent a
rediculous amount of time (~7 hours) trying to get the new studs
in from my
H&R spacer kit, but since nothing would move far enough to allow
clearance, I gave up and took it to my mechanic.. (I truly hate it
when
I am beaten by relatively simple jobs..) Apparently everything was
too
corroded to do without a special mitsu hub puller..
translation: it cost me $250 to get my spacer kit
installed.. *sigh*
grumble.. ok.. well it's on..
the roads were crappy when I picked it
up, so I had to be extra careful (I
did not bring the other wheels to be
swapped after the install), and didn't
even get to play a bit to see if
the understeer had turned to
oversteer.. fine.. I was going to put the
1st gen wheels on when
I got home, but got busy with other things..
A couple days later I
watch the news and realize a big storm is coming in..
oh goody! a
reason to get my butt out in the garage and change the wheels..
1) jack
up right front.
2) remove 18" wheel
3) notice mechanic forgot to tighten a
hub assembly nut.
4) yell numerous profanities. consider demanding a
refund for labor.
5) calm down.
6) put 17" wheel on hub. yup,
sure enough that point of contact I saw on
the caliper is no
longer touching.
7) start to place lug nuts on. hmm.. why didn't
I notice this other part
of the caliper that looks really snug
to the wheel..
8) place light behind wheel to see if there's clearance.
er, no?
9) jack up car more to make sure the tire is totally off the
ground.
10) try to rotate wheel. it doesn't.
11) *blink*...
*blink*... (this goes on for about 5 minutes..)
Moral of the
sotry: I'm the idiot here to tell everyone once and for all,
1st gen
wheels don't fit 2nd gen calipers even with spacers.
and the
punchline?
I have a set of 1st gen silver 5 spoke VR4 wheels with killer
Goodear M&S
tires (nearly brand new 245/45/17 VR) for sale. I got a
great deal on the
set from another local 3S member and am willing to pass on
the same deal
to anyone else. (I do want to make sure he isn't
interested in getting
them back first though). I really don't want to
ship them, but if you make
the arrangements (and pay shipping) I'll deal
with it. The price is $440
before shipping, and I will deliver them in
the Denver metro area for
free.. So there's no confusion, these are not
pristine wheels. a couple
have some curb rash.. However, they're
not ugly and they're balanced and
ready to go for someone that would rather
keep their nicer wheels off the
winter streets.
I may sell the spacer
kit too.. haven't decided yet though..
PLEASE REPSOND
PRIVATELY!
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:46:17
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
+> Well my point is that the Red Line
is already in the tranny so I can't do
+> anything about that.
However, should I complain about the "gumminess" of
+> the shifting or
will this wear in after a month or several thousand miles?
+> First and
Second aren't bad as I use these all the time. Fifth and Sixth
+>
are very hard to shift into and out of and Reverse is also tricky.
Could
+> something not be lined up correctly making the shifting
difficult?
+>
+> I had the tranny in my ex-Honda Accord changed (I
know it is different) but
+> it was smooth as silk when I got it
back. This is very difficult and
+> aggravating to shift through so
was looking for advice.
+>
+> --Flash!
+>
dschilberg@freemarkets.comfwiw,
I had a new (rebuilt) transfer case put in right after I bought
my
car.. At the time everyone seemed to recommend Redline MT90 in
the
transaxle so I had it flushed and filled at that time.. I _think_ I
recall have the same feeling of "gumminess" at first, but discounted
it
as due to the cold weather (December).. Since then I've put 5K on
the
car and either I'm used to the feeling now, or the viscosity has
"lightened
up" enough to not notice anymore..
I never had great difficulty shifting
except in reverse, which turned
out to be interference with the linkage in
the engine compartment..
I doubt it's the problem, but it's really easy to
double check just in
case..
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87
Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:19:18
-0800
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch opinion???
Hello all again,
My stock clutch just cannot
handle the 14 PSI of boost anymore, so I
turned the boost controller off
until I change the clutch. It really
sucks being back to 7 PSI
:). As of now, my only engine mods are K&N
air filter and Apexi
boost controller. This coming summer, I plan to
get 720cc injectors,
ARC2 fuel controller, and a better fuel pump, and
maybe even exhaust related
stuff. Sometime in the near future (about a
year from now), I hope to
get either 15G or 17G turbos and bigger
intercoolers. Although this is
my daily driver, I only put about 8,000
~ 10,000 miles a year (I know it
sounds like a lot, but for it being the
only car I have, it really isn't that
much). The OEM clutch lasted
through 15K miles with a stock setup
(320HP) and 5K miles of the new
setup (400HP). Thus, I expect the next
clutch to last me at least 20K
miles, since I normally don't go to the drag
strip and or autocrosses.
Because of this, I don't want to get a clutch that
is just OK for what I
need now, but one that will support the power generated
by massive 15G
or 17G turbos. I have been on the list for probably
nearly a year, so I
have read all the stuff that you guys said on
clutches. My impression
is that none of them are as reliable as the OEM
stock clutches, but they
obviously hold more power. I am not implying
that I want a stock
clutch, but for the guys that are running the bigger
turbos and have got
the after market clutches, such as RPS, or Centerforce,
has there been a
consensus in regards which clutch is really the most
reliable, and most
likely to work without changing it several times because
of a design
fault. I know my question is very vague, but looking
through the
archive did not help in making me come to a conclusion. I
really don't
want to start a whole new heated discussion about this, since I
know the
topic has been beat to death, but I guess what I want is to just
have
some personal testimonials, and obviously, the more the merrier.
The
only thing to keep in mind is that I want the clutch to hold as much
as
possible, be as reliable as possible (from the beginning),
reasonably
priced, but yet be streetable. Do other things have to be
upgraded when
upgrading the clutch???
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:19:27
-0800
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: 15G
vs 18T turbos???
Hello all once again,
For those who know a lot
about turbos, can anybody tell me the
difference between 15G and 18T
turbos? Price wise, they are about the
same (~$2500 for the
pair). Since I am not the real technical kind of
guy, I am interested
in things such as its max HP realistically
attainable, difference in lag
compared to 9b turbos, and are they still
street driveable, and or do they
require even larger intercoolers than
15G do due to the more mass, more HP,
more heat... I still have another
year to go with school (MS in
computer science), so as soon as I finish
or just get a little extra cash
(like ~ $6000, since all I will need are
turbos and intercoolers), my goal is
to have the fastest 3S car in the
world!!! I know it is wishful
thinking, but I believe that anybody can
go as fast as they want, as long as
they are willing to invest the $$$.
I know that the record held by Jack T is
using 15G turbos in the low
11s, so if I go with 15Gs, the only way I could
beat him would be to be
a better driver, which I am sure I am not (the best
time I could get on
the G-Teck Pro with the car being stock was 0-60, 6.15
sec and 1/4 mile
in 14.5 seconds @ 100 mph). Therefore, I am inquiring
about these 18T
turbos that might produce more HP and give me that edge to go
in the 10s
without NOS. I hope that Jack T is not taking this as a
personally, but
I always believed that if you set high standards to yourself,
even the
worst possible outcome would still be damn better then the best
outcome
with low standards. For example, if after 15G or 18T turbos and
all the
rest of the gadgets, I only pull in the high 11s or low 12s, then
I
would still be damn happy because I know I would still be one of
the
fastest street legal cars around with AWD too.
Thanks for all the
patience...
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:21:26
-0800
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Eibach Pro Kit Springs Instalation $$$
Hello,
By the way, the $160
to $200 price tag for changing the springs does not include
an
alignment. Thanks.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
Ken
Middaugh wrote:
> If the $160-$200 includes an alignment, then it is
actually a good price!
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:50:30
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question regarding rebuilding brake calipers
Just a comment about
the "o-rings". They are actually trapezoid shaped with
the taper being on
the I.D. edge. Make sure you put them in with the taper
pointing down (into
the caliper body)
OUTSIDE
\ /
INSIDE
At 04:56
PM 2/15/01 , Jim wrote:
>I didn't have any pitting on the pistons on my 91
VR4 and the O rings were
>still
>in good condition. The rubber
boots are really just dust caps, the fluid is
>held back
>by the O
rings alone.
>
>Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:06:09
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Eibach Pro Kit Springs Instalation $$$
Struts, springs and alignment =
$120. Talked each other down (gently) from
$180.00 just because I was
referred by a mutual acquaintance and we shared
some mutual history. I
would have paid the $180 if need be though.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Hello all,
>
> A while
back, some of you mentioned that the instalation costs on the
> Eibach Pro
Kit Spirngs should be around 2 hours worth of labor, which
> would put it
at about $120 tops. I have been looking around (and not at
>
dealers) and the best prices I have found have been $160 and $200 (after
>
barganing, since he started at $300). My question is: for those of
you
> who paid someone to change their springs, how much did you
pay??? I
> just want to know if I am overpaying, and if so if I
should keep
> looking. If anybody in the Detroit area has any info,
that would be
> greatly appreciated, but off coarse anybody is welcome to
give me
> feedback like always. Thanks in advance.
>
>
John Raicu
> 94 Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:06:50
-0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch opinion???
John,
I've had the best luck with
the OEM clutch. I pulled numerous low 11 second
passes in my 92 with
it. If you don't drag race, you should be fine.
Whatever you do,
stay away from RPS. I'm on number 4-5? This clutch
is
and has been sitting at RPS since November 12ish (I'd have to look the
exact
date up) I have no updates from RPS regarding this
clutch.
Seems the RPS guys have a big ego problem, they told a customer
of mine "
for every bad clutch out there, there are 50 good
ones" My question is, out
of the 12-15 RPS clutches I have installed in
various different vehicles,
why has only 2 of them held up longer than a
month?
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Mihai Raicu
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 9:19 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Clutch opinion???
Hello all again,
My stock clutch just
cannot handle the 14 PSI of boost anymore, so I
turned the boost controller
off until I change the clutch. It really
sucks being back to 7 PSI
:). As of now, my only engine mods are K&N
air filter and Apexi
boost controller. This coming summer, I plan to
get 720cc injectors,
ARC2 fuel controller, and a better fuel pump, and
maybe even exhaust related
stuff. Sometime in the near future (about a
year from now), I hope to
get either 15G or 17G turbos and bigger
intercoolers. Although this is
my daily driver, I only put about 8,000
~ 10,000 miles a year (I know it
sounds like a lot, but for it being the
only car I have, it really isn't that
much). The OEM clutch lasted
through 15K miles with a stock setup
(320HP) and 5K miles of the new
setup (400HP). Thus, I expect the next
clutch to last me at least 20K
miles, since I normally don't go to the drag
strip and or autocrosses.
Because of this, I don't want to get a clutch that
is just OK for what I
need now, but one that will support the power generated
by massive 15G
or 17G turbos. I have been on the list for probably
nearly a year, so I
have read all the stuff that you guys said on
clutches. My impression
is that none of them are as reliable as the OEM
stock clutches, but they
obviously hold more power. I am not implying
that I want a stock
clutch, but for the guys that are running the bigger
turbos and have got
the after market clutches, such as RPS, or Centerforce,
has there been a
consensus in regards which clutch is really the most
reliable, and most
likely to work without changing it several times because
of a design
fault. I know my question is very vague, but looking
through the
archive did not help in making me come to a conclusion. I
really don't
want to start a whole new heated discussion about this, since I
know the
topic has been beat to death, but I guess what I want is to just
have
some personal testimonials, and obviously, the more the merrier.
The
only thing to keep in mind is that I want the clutch to hold as much
as
possible, be as reliable as possible (from the beginning),
reasonably
priced, but yet be streetable. Do other things have to be
upgraded when
upgrading the clutch???
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:49:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
My fairly-comprehensive turbo upgrade
guide may answer some questions
for you.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmI
think that so far Mikael Kenson is the only 3S owner to experience
the 18Ts.
If you want to hold more than 20 psi to redline in a
modified 6G72, you want
something bigger than 15Gs. Something in the
range of 500 CFM should
work.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: 15G vs 18T
turbos???
Hello all once again,
For those who know a lot about
turbos, can anybody tell me the
difference between 15G and 18T turbos?
<snip>
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:10:18
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
..but if you wanna get somewhere on
boost within a full city block..you
want 15Gs. *heh*
On Thu, 15
Feb 2001, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> My fairly-comprehensive turbo upgrade
guide may answer some questions
> for you.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm>
> I think that so far Mikael Kenson is the only 3S owner to
experience
> the 18Ts. If you want to hold more than 20 psi to redline in
a
> modified 6G72, you want something bigger than 15Gs. Something in
the
> range of 500 CFM should work.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:19 PM
> Subject: Team3S: 15G vs 18T
turbos???
>
> Hello all once again,
>
> For those who
know a lot about turbos, can anybody tell me the
> difference between 15G
and 18T turbos?
> <snip>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year!
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 00:29:17
EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: 3.5 liter 3/S?
I was wondering what if any developments has come
since the last discussion of using the Montero block in our cars. As I vaguely
recall, there was some issue with piston skirt oiling. I thinking it was Brad
who was looking into that. Any word? I am also interested in knowing which years
and trim level (if that does make a difference) Monteros this block exists in.
Lastly, what kind of horsepower gains might on expect in a NA application using
3/S NA heads? I have both a NA and TT that I scr*w around with more than drive,
so using this engine in either application interests
me.
Ron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 00:39:20
EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Gutting precats in a NA
OK, another question about our engines. I
have a Californa 3000GT with the precats and auto transmission I am thinking
about gutting the precats (and leaving the main cat) and wonder if anyone else
has ever done so before. I have read in the past about losing some bottom end
when gutting out the main cat on the NAs. But, arent the Clifornia cars 218 HP
verus the federal 222 HP? Has anyone experienced both a auto Fed car and Cali
car? I wonder of the extra restriction would give me more or less pep of the
line and how gas mileage might be impacted. I will also do the resonator mod and
add the K&N FIPK, of course. Any comments whould be
appreciated.
Ron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:48:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gutting precats in a NA
Probly be less pep off the
line..
Backpressure is your friend in an N/A down low.
On Fri, 16
Feb 2001
RDO26@aol.com wrote:
> OK,
another question about our engines. I have a Californa 3000GT with the precats
and auto transmission I am thinking about gutting the precats (and leaving the
main cat) and wonder if anyone else has ever done so before. I have read in the
past about losing some bottom end when gutting out the main cat on the NAs. But,
arent the Clifornia cars 218 HP verus the federal 222 HP? Has anyone experienced
both a auto Fed car and Cali car? I wonder of the extra restriction would give
me more or less pep of the line and how gas mileage might be impacted. I will
also do the resonator mod and add the K&N FIPK, of course. Any comments
whould be appreciated.
>
> Ron
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 10:28:11
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: H&R spacer kit install (= 1st gen VR4 wheels / snow tires for
sale)
>recap: I bought an H&R spacer kit for 2
reasons. 1) to help
correct
> the understeer
problem our cars have, and 2) to allow me to
fit
> first gen 17" VR4
wheels that I bought with snow tires..
To be honest, this is not a
solution for oyur problems.
If your car is experiencing too much
understeer then you may change the
wheel alignement as well as your driving
style and how you take the turns.
After I went to the racing school, the car
"lost" its understeer as I
learned how to use the AWD. The spacers may help
a little but is definitely
not THE solution. Especially when you now are
experiencing oversteer, what
is not easier to control than
understeer.
>Moral of the sotry: I'm the idiot here to tell
everyone once and for all,
>1st gen wheels don't fit 2nd gen calipers even
with spacers.
Regarding the wheels, many of us run stock 17" on 2nd gen
cars with larger
brakes. Even more the European 1st gen cars all came with
2nd gen brakes
and stock 17" wheels so I'd say that the wheels are 16" of
the early 1st
gens or just not original Mitsubishi ones. Do you have any
pictures of them
on the car including where they touch the calipers ? Have
you tried both
sides ?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 03:25:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
Absolutely!
This is the big
advantage of the "smaller" turbos and also why I
think the current records
are held by 15G and 17G cars (and of course
the excellent skills of Jack T.).
The GT PRO turbo hybrids
(especially the 368s) have been around for years,
yet no outstanding
1/4 mile records. Maybe the ball-bearing IHI RHF55 (maybe
close to
500 cfm in ported form from DNP) could be the exception.
Part
of the problem is that our "1.5 L" engine does not produce a lot
of exhaust
flow and heat for the turbine till 3rd gear (on flat
ground), as the engine
just is not under heavy load until then.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T
turbos???
..but if you wanna get somewhere on boost within a full
city
block..you
want 15Gs. *heh*
On Thu, 15 Feb 2001, Jeff
Lucius wrote:
> My fairly-comprehensive turbo upgrade guide may answer
some
questions
> for you.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm>
> I think that so far Mikael Kenson is the only 3S owner
to
experience
> the 18Ts. If you want to hold more than 20 psi to
redline in a
> modified 6G72, you want something bigger than 15Gs.
Something in
the
> range of 500 CFM should work.
>
> Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 05:49:00
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
"So 15Gs are not capable of holding >
20 psi up to redline?"
This question was emailed to me privately by one
of our members, but
I thought the answer might be of interest to many Team3S
members.
My (long) answer:
Well that depends. Note that I
carefully said a "modified 6G72" in my
post. You can use my air and fuel flow
calculators at my web page
below to determine the numbers I'll be
mentioning.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htmBoost
is NOT a measure of air flow; it measures "backpressure" or the
inability of
an engine to process the air volume/mass being supplied
it. Let me
demonstrate using 15G turbos that flow about 400 cfm each
over a wide range
of pressure ratios.
Assume that at sea level our 3.0L engine is running
at 7000 RPM and
has 100% volumetric efficiency (that is 100% of the swept
volume is
filled with fresh charge, not very likely in a turbo car
but
possible). This engine would flow 370 cfm of air, compressed or
not.
If that air is twice as dense as atmospheric air (or a density
ratio,
DR, of about 2.0, or about 15 psi), then it would take 760 cfm
of
uncompressed air to to fill the cylinders. This is a little less
than
the 800 cfm of uncompressed air that two 15Gs can handle. At 20
psi
of boost (DR ~ 2.36), it would take 873 cfm of uncompressed air
to
fill the cylinders completely at 7000 RPM. This is more
uncompressed
air than two 15G turbos can handle. In this situation, 15G
turbos
cannot hold 20 psi to redline.
Now let's assume this same
engine has only a 75% VE at 7000 RPM
(maybe similar to a stock 6G72 DOHC).
Instead of 370 cfm air flow,
there would only be about 278 cfm flowing. At a
DR=2.36 (or about 20
psi boost), the air flow would be equivalent to 656 cfm
of
uncompressed air. The 15G turbos (even 13G turbos) can handle this
much
uncompressed air. In this situation, 15G (even 13G) turbos can
hold 20
psi to redline.
These examples show that we can have the unfortunate
situation of
running higher boost (20 psi in the second example) but having
less
air flow 656 cfm (vs. 760 cfm at 15 psi in the first
example).
Improving VE is why we work on the heads and the exhaust.
So
can 15Gs hold 20 psi to redline? Quite possibly in a stock engine.
But I hope
not in a modified 6G72.
Just one more example. 20 psi boost at sea level
represents a density
ratio of about 2.4 ([20+14]/14). 20 psi boost at 6000
feet above sea
level (where air pressure is 12 psi) represents a density
ratio of
about 2.7 ([20+12]/12). A 3.0L engine at 6000 RPM and 100% VE
uses
about 318 cfm of air. At 20 psi boost at sea level, this engine
would
need 763 cfm of uncompressed air (2.4 x 318). At 20 psi boost ar
6000
ft ASL, this same engine would need about 858 cfm of uncompressed
air
(2.7 x 318). Same boost levels, different air flow (volume and
mass).
Turbos are volumetric devices. So while 15Gs may be adequate in
this
case at sea level, they may be too small for high boost levels
near
Denver CO.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmhttp://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:07:08
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question regarding rebuilding brake calipers
Rebuilding the
calipers after several years of use (like 7) is a good
preventive maintenance
chore. Take a look at the dust boots around the
pistons. If
they're melted that's a good indication that a caliper rebuild
is in
order. If you see any leakage around the pistons, its a
repair.
I've rebuilt the front calipers from both our '93 VR4's as
preventive
maintenance, and the rear ones on my '93 VR4 because they both
blew seals on
the track last Labor Day (in 107 degree weather). I have
some pictures of
the rebuild process on the front that I need to scan and
share. Some of the
seals in the front caliper pistons were pretty
swollen and misshapen. The
pistons are chrome to reduce corrosion, but
you will find some scoring and
corrosion, some of which can be removed with
scotchbrite pads. You can buy
replacement pistons if you need
to.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
WALTER D. BEST [
SMTP:WDBO39@erols.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:14 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Question regarding rebuilding brake calipers
>
> I
was wondering if we would ever need to rebuild our brake calipers.
>
> I know the housings are made of alumium and didn't know if they had
a
> steel
> sheve in them, or not, or if it was machined
alumium. If they are not
> steel, then we won't have to worry about
rust forming in and around the
> piston and effecting the seals.
>
> A friend of mine doesn't drive his car very much during the winter and
was
> wondering if this was a concern.
>
> I remember when
you needed to change pads on the older cars that, when you
> pushed the
piston back in, if there was any rust, in time it would eat up
> the seals
and they would start to leak. I didn't know if this was a
>
problem
> any longer or not. I just have never heard of anyone
having to rebuild
> the
> caliper on our cars and was just wondering
if we ever needed to do it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
Best
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:03:51
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
My 15G's can hold 20 psi to redline at 1330'
altitude...I've only tried it
once on 103-104 octane but it did it! Netted me
the time in my sig too.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.17@116.392 GMC Typhoon
13.96@96.4- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 16, 2001 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T
turbos???
> "So 15Gs are not capable of holding > 20 psi up to
redline?"
>
> This question was emailed to me privately by one of
our members, but
> I thought the answer might be of interest to many
Team3S members.
>
> My (long) answer:
>
> Well that
depends. Note that I carefully said a "modified 6G72" in my
> post. You
can use my air and fuel flow calculators at my web page
> below to
determine the numbers I'll be mentioning.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htm>
>
Boost is NOT a measure of air flow; it measures "backpressure" or the
>
inability of an engine to process the air volume/mass being supplied
> it.
Let me demonstrate using 15G turbos that flow about 400 cfm each
> over a
wide range of pressure ratios.
>
> Assume that at sea level our 3.0L
engine is running at 7000 RPM and
> has 100% volumetric efficiency (that
is 100% of the swept volume is
> filled with fresh charge, not very likely
in a turbo car but
> possible). This engine would flow 370 cfm of air,
compressed or not.
> If that air is twice as dense as atmospheric air (or
a density ratio,
> DR, of about 2.0, or about 15 psi), then it would take
760 cfm of
> uncompressed air to to fill the cylinders. This is a little
less than
> the 800 cfm of uncompressed air that two 15Gs can handle. At
20 psi
> of boost (DR ~ 2.36), it would take 873 cfm of uncompressed air
to
> fill the cylinders completely at 7000 RPM. This is more
uncompressed
> air than two 15G turbos can handle. In this situation, 15G
turbos
> cannot hold 20 psi to redline.
>
> Now let's assume
this same engine has only a 75% VE at 7000 RPM
> (maybe similar to a stock
6G72 DOHC). Instead of 370 cfm air flow,
> there would only be about 278
cfm flowing. At a DR=2.36 (or about 20
> psi boost), the air flow would be
equivalent to 656 cfm of
> uncompressed air. The 15G turbos (even 13G
turbos) can handle this
> much uncompressed air. In this situation,
15G (even 13G) turbos can
> hold 20 psi to redline.
>
> These
examples show that we can have the unfortunate situation of
> running
higher boost (20 psi in the second example) but having less
> air flow 656
cfm (vs. 760 cfm at 15 psi in the first example).
> Improving VE is
why we work on the heads and the exhaust.
>
> So can 15Gs hold 20
psi to redline? Quite possibly in a stock engine.
> But I hope not in a
modified 6G72.
>
> Just one more example. 20 psi boost at sea level
represents a density
> ratio of about 2.4 ([20+14]/14). 20 psi boost at
6000 feet above sea
> level (where air pressure is 12 psi) represents a
density ratio of
> about 2.7 ([20+12]/12). A 3.0L engine at 6000 RPM and
100% VE uses
> about 318 cfm of air. At 20 psi boost at sea level, this
engine would
> need 763 cfm of uncompressed air (2.4 x 318). At 20 psi
boost ar 6000
> ft ASL, this same engine would need about 858 cfm of
uncompressed air
> (2.7 x 318). Same boost levels, different air flow
(volume and mass).
> Turbos are volumetric devices. So while 15Gs may be
adequate in this
> case at sea level, they may be too small for high boost
levels near
> Denver CO.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htm>
>
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
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>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:13:38
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Fwd: Re: Team3S: H&R spacer kit install (= 1st gen VR4 wheels / snow tires
for sale)
>I have tried to fit my 93 stock american crome rims on a
3000GT 96 (AWD)
>imported from germany and they didn't fit
Well,
it seems that this is really an issue and our European 1st gen cars
do have
different Mitsu wheels. Are the Stealth wheels bigger
???
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:23:17
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs Instalation $$$
We did the ground
control conversion ourselves, because we couldn't find a
reasonable
price. The only special tools you need are jackstands, a torque
wrench,
and a spring compressor, which you can borrow from AutoZone.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Mihai Raicu [
SMTP:aa2345@wayne.edu]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:15 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
mi3si@yahoogroups.com> Subject:
Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs Instalation $$$
>
> Hello
all,
>
> A while back, some of you mentioned that the instalation
costs on the
> Eibach Pro Kit Spirngs should be around 2 hours worth of
labor, which
> would put it at about $120 tops. I have been looking
around (and not at
> dealers) and the best prices I have found have been
$160 and $200 (after
> barganing, since he started at $300). My
question is: for those of you
> who paid someone to change their springs,
how much did you pay??? I
> just want to know if I am overpaying,
and if so if I should keep
> looking. If anybody in the Detroit area
has any info, that would be
> greatly appreciated, but off coarse anybody
is welcome to give me
> feedback like always. Thanks in
advance.
>
> John Raicu
> 94 Yellow TT
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:38:57
+0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G
vs 18T turbos???
Lag is not a problem with the 18T turbos (IMHO). Spool
up is very quick, actually it's so quick that the boost controller have a hard
time trying to keep the boost down. (waste gate needs to be ported) With the
stock turbos you had to shift at 5500 or the boost would creep down now I can
rev to 7500 under full boost so the engine actually has a much wider and nicer
working range now. I love the feel of this engine :) I also changed to autronic
engine management system so now I'm running full sequential and that really
helped drivability. Smothe idle and very crisp revving. This is the way the
engine should have been from the factory.
Since I haven't done any 402
runs with timing yet I don't know what kind of times to expect but by "butt
dyno" I think next summers timeslips will be interesting... (the Gtech 0-60 are
.5 sec quicker now)
I plan (not sure yet) to change the small mitsu
exhaust housings to a bigger size 7 housings, I don't think this will hurt spool
up very much but it will help keeping the temp down and inprove top end
power.
I will also use performance cams and ported heads.
/Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:53:58
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Complete oilchange
Your English is better than most Americans
on this list!
The location of the drain and fill plugs and fill
quantities are inthe first
section of the service manual. I remember
somebody had a FAQ section
describing the process. My reason for replying is
to answer about the
"seals". When you change the ENGINE oil, it is
important to replace the
crushable gasket on the drain plug. If you
don't the oil pan will leak.
When you change the tranny, transaxle, and rear
axle, there are six (6)
copper washers than should also be replaced, one for
each drain and refill
plug. In a pinch, I have cleaned and reused
these, but the service manual
describes them as "non-reusable"
components. I did not notice a problem the
times I had to reuse the
copper washers.
If my memory serves me, the tranny and transaxle require
about 2 quarts (or
liters) total, 1/2 in the transfer case and 1.5 in
the tranny. The rear
axle takes about 1 quart. That means you
need two quarts of the fluid for
the tranny/transfer case, which I use
RedLine (I think it is "MT90" which is
really 75W90 GL-4) and one for the
rear (I think I use RedLine 75W90 maybe
GL-5?). I imaging it is a
little colder in Sweden than here in Texas. I'm
sure someone else on
the list will correct me if I am calling out the wrong
viscosities for the
gear oil.
Unless you are incredibly thin, you will need to raise the car
to perform
the service. It's convenient to have a hand pump to help
remove the old
oil, but especially to get the fresh oil in.
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Håkan
Johansson, Vreten AB [
SMTP:hakan@vreten.se]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 15, 2001 11:01 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Complete oilchange
>
> First, excuse my bad
english.
>
> Is there a page on the web that describes a complete
oilchange(tranny,
> front/rear diff and so on) on a -93 3000GT VR-4? If
not, what oils should
> I use and how much is needed for each thing? Are
there any seals that
> needs to be replaced when removing the
plugs?
>
>
> best regards
>
> Håkan Johanssson
// Sweden
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:57:03
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Complete oilchange
There is some disconcerting language on
one of the bottles of RedLine about
NOT FOR LIMITED SLIP
DIFFERENTIALS. I thought that was the MTL stuff,
while the MT90
said DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR LINITED SLIP DIFFERENTIALS. I
might have
these mixed up, but it sure disturbed me when I was trying to buy
the stuff
off the shelf wihtout my notes on what I used last time!
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:47 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
Paul T. Golley
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Complete oilchange
>
>
Let's put this "don't use Red Line in our cases" nonsense to rest!
>
> I just got off the phone with David at Red Line (707-745-6100).
He
> said Red Line MTL and MT-90 are perfectly fine to use in our
AWD
> transaxles and transfer cases. He recommends a blend of 1/1 or 3/2
of
> MTL/MT-90. The blend is only to reduce the viscosity a little
to
> comply with Mitsu's recommended fluid (Hypoid Gear Oil, SAE 75W-90
or
> 75W-85W conforming to API classification GL-4). MTL is rated
70W80
> GL4 and MT-90 is rated 75W90 GL-4.
>
> I hope this is
the last word on this subject. :)
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Complete
oilchange
> <snip>
> Team 3S-
> In the same vein, I read
somewhere on this list that Red Line has
> said that their lubricants
(MT-90, I guess), should not be used in
> the Getrag transaxels. Is this a
fact? Thanks in advance.
> Regards,
> ptg
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year!
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:02:57
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G vs 18T turbos???
>Boost is NOT a measure of air flow;
it measures "backpressure" or the
>inability of an engine to process the
air volume/mass being supplied
You may add that the term MAP (manifold
absolute pressure) to correctly
specifiy what is meant. From the point of
cfm , boost is a measure of air
flow for sure as the pressure is a
multiplying factor for the airflow
amount. I think it is necessary to tell
that an engine "sucks" in air
volume/mass and without any pressure applied
to it. The more air will be
supplied (compressed by a charging system) the
more pressure will be found
in the manifold. This finally results in more
airflow measured at the intake.
>So can 15Gs hold 20 psi to redline?
Quite possibly in a stock engine.
>But I hope not in a modified
6G72.
I think this is too easy to be said ! What about the loss in the
intercoolers and every bend in the tubing ? The higher the airflow, the
more restrictive become these parts and play an important rule. We
currently do not have any pressure measuring in the intercooler pipings and
therefore do not know the real loss and my guess is up to 3 psi at 20psi
and may be lower on a good FMIC. This loss is not linear and therefore hard
to be calculated. Therefore when we need 20 psi in the manifold, the turbos
must produce 23 psi. Therefore I think we must ask "can the turbos hold 23
psi to the redline ?"
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#409
*********************
