team3s Thursday, February 15 2001 Volume 01 : Number 408

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:38:42 -0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject: Team3S: Synchros

Time and time again I have read that Kormex is one of if not the only
place to get synchros for our transmissions, but I was looking
through West Broad Mistubishi's web site and they have the synchros
listed as for sale and have prices on them ($153). Do they not stock
these synchros, or is this a new item they have listed? I haven't
contacted them yet to see if we can order them, but I will soon. My
VR4 has 58K on it. We all know what that means. :(

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)

'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock + new short block, custom shifter boot / Green)

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:55:38 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation

>I have the Blitz, and although I am very happy with it I still find it
>frustrating that it will does not compensate for the differing ranges
>of RPM.

Not necessary if the system is tuned properly.

> I can be in city traffic and have it dialed in perfectly in 1st
>and 2nd gear at or less than 4,000 rpm, but when I get on the
>interstate and go WOT in 3rd and 4th gear the boost rises much
>faster and it tends to overboost too frequently.

The Gain is too big as well as the engine is not under full load until in
3rd gear !

> A variable 'gain'
>would be great but alas it only has a single setting. Not to mention
>an amber backlight to match the rest of the dash :-)

Yes, I agree on this although I only have to adjust when the season are
changing. In reality I never changed gain again since I found the right
setting (between 15 and 18). Regarding the overboost, this is what the
limiter is for. Just be aware of the Apexi as it DON'T has a limiter and
not always holds the set boost. In fact it also overboosts alot if the BADC
is not set low. The gear and rpm behaviour is not something you gain of
until you are always driving on flat roads and with the same amount of
weight in your car. It simply depends on under what load the engine is and
this is not rpm-specific. The rpm stuff is good when running 1/4 miles as
the load is then the same over the range and shifting is also the same.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 13:16:36 EST
From: LizVong21@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: tires for sale

I have a few sets of tires i'd like to sell

4 245/45 17ZR Dunlop SP9000 with 1/2in of tread left - $450

4 245/45 17ZR Goodyear tires stock tires on VR-4 about 1/2 in of tread left-
$250

4 235/40 17ZR Ventrus tires used for 500 miles $400

4 275/40 18ZR Goodyear F1 with about 3 mm of tread left -$250

ALL PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 11:11:42 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cat removal

Actually as long as we're on the subject, what (in order of restriction) are
the bottle necks in the stock exhaust system? Improving the flow of a
system can only be acheived by improving the flow of the most restrictive
part, so there must be an order in which exhaust mods should be performed.
For example, if the stock cat can flow more exhaust than the stock muffler,
it seems to me that removing the cat without changing the muffler will do
nothing (except possibly make your car louder). So...what's the order?

- - Brian

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Petry [mailto:sjpsys@rit.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:29 AM
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Cat removal
>
>
> I have a '91 VR4 I purchased in California and had it sent to
> NY. I would
> like to remove the cat's. How hard is this to do? Will I
> gain anything by
> removing the cat's?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:42:31 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Synchros

Don't get too paranoid, Travis, my '93 is at 88K on the original
transmission ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ukyo@speedfactory.net [SMTP:ukyo@speedfactory.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 11:39 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Synchros
>
> Time and time again I have read that Kormex is one of if not the only
> place to get synchros for our transmissions, but I was looking
> through West Broad Mistubishi's web site and they have the synchros
> listed as for sale and have prices on them ($153). Do they not stock
> these synchros, or is this a new item they have listed? I haven't
> contacted them yet to see if we can order them, but I will soon. My
> VR4 has 58K on it. We all know what that means. :(
>
> --Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)
>
> '94 3000GT VR4 (Stock + new short block, custom shifter boot / Green)
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 17:14:53 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch time!

Thanks to all who responded with my questions RE: stereo serial number and
fluid choices.

Today, in fifth gear going over 100mph, I felt my clutch going south...fast.
I should probably have the tranny done as well but I think I can live with
the second gear grind for awhile since it is the only syncro going...

So I'm gonna do the 60k service along with the clutch job ASAP here at 80k.
I'm trying to decide on OEM clutch or aftermarket. Looking at the
mvpmotorsports.com site, I see an Unorthodox Racing lightweight aluminium
flywheel along with their clutches. Anybody running one of these setups? I
would tend to think that this mod would be a good bet even for a stock car,
no? Anybody running this flywheel? How much longer should an aftermarket
clutch last over OEM?

TIA to all the listers who make owning a VR-4/TT much less of a PITA.;-)

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:44:45 -0500
From: GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?

I am in the middle of calibraiting my MSD knock sensor with my new TMO
datalogger.I am running in DOS because the computer is old, I just got it up and
running and saw that the TMO is seeing 0 sum for knock. This is a brand new
motor with JE pistons that have been coated by HPC and 15c turbos running @ 12
psi no cats and a BORLA exhaust with dual EGTS @ the manifolds. It looks like I
should have replaced the knock sensor when I had the chance.
rushvr4

"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:

> > To correctly find out what is showing the test with a
> > datalogger should be done again together with the LED.
>
> That would be great, but as you very well know the 2G cars do NOT have
> access to a datalogger with any sort of knock indication no matter whether
> you can use an OBD-II scanner or not.
>
> I'll take a rough-guess, not-very-accurate, anything-I-can-get hacked-on LED
> warning light as opposed to the non-solution that is routinely heard on this
> problem. The answer is always "Verify it with a datalogger", but 2G guys
> CAN'T DO THAT!
>
> Something is better than nothing.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:49:33 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Dead battery

I have my car in winter storage, and I start it up every ten days or so.
Lately, the battery has been down, and I have been jump starting it. It
always has enough juice to sound the door buzzer, but not enuf to crank it
over.

Any problems with this? Will draining the battery do anything serious to
the computers and electronics?
What about constant jump starting? That can't be too good for the
electronics either. I shut everything off before jumping.

If somebody had shot that $#%#@ groundhog, I'd be putting the car back on
the road, heading up to Mnpls to get the boost controller and water
injection put in (I can taste that Moose Drool beer already!) and getting
set for another season. Alas, it snowed again today.

Rich/old poop

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 22:26:45 -0500
From: "Steve Sullivan" <Sully@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Test and Tune Day

Hey if anyone in the southeast is interested in some serious 1/4 track time,
I am organizing a priate track day at Darlington dragway Friday Feb 23rd.
It will be limited to 25 cars and I already have about 20 signed up. The
cost is $35 per car. It will be mostly American made cars but all are
welcome. I won't have my VR-4 there because I will be dilaing in a new
front mount intercooler on my Grand National. Email me @
sully@carolina.rr.com if you want any more info.

Sully
94 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:19:15 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dead battery

Get yourself (well, your car actually) a low amperage trickle charger. Two
amps should do the trick. Find one that knows how to shut itself off. This
will keep the battery fresh and save the potential damage from jump starting
it, and it'll keep the ECU's memory intact.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have my car in winter storage, and I start it up every ten days or so.
> Lately, the battery has been down, and I have been jump starting it. It
> always has enough juice to sound the door buzzer, but not enuf to crank it
> over.
>
> Any problems with this? Will draining the battery do anything serious to
> the computers and electronics?
> What about constant jump starting? That can't be too good for the
> electronics either. I shut everything off before jumping.
>
> If somebody had shot that $#%#@ groundhog, I'd be putting the car back on
> the road, heading up to Mnpls to get the boost controller and water
> injection put in (I can taste that Moose Drool beer already!) and getting
> set for another season. Alas, it snowed again today.
>
> Rich/old poop

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:29:20 -0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?

Hi all,

Time for my 2 cents worth.

First of all a company called Link Electrosystems make a unit called a
Knocklink. Made here in New Zealand. It just wires up to the existing knock
sensor. It does basically the same as the MSD . I have bought one but it's
not wired in yet. I do know people who have them with no complaints. Price
is about NZ$100 which is only approx US$43. Can't go wrong at that price.
Now as far as monitoring the stock BC solenoid goes, it all depends if
you've upgraded the injectors.Simple really when you think about it. With
standard injectors the ECU modulates the BC solenoid to try to keep the
boost from exceeding the factory preset level. Monitoring it for knock wont
work, however if the injectors have been upgraded like mine have to 550s,
the stock BC solenoid can't limit the boost anymore because we have tricked
the ECU into thinking there is less airflow than what there really is, in
order to keep the mixture correct. In the case of 550 injectors we are
telling the ECU that we have approx 66% of the actual airflow because 550
injectors are approx 50% over stock. The BC solenoid will try to limit boost
at well over 20 pounds.Knock will normally happen well before this so
monitoring the solenoid for knock should work ok.

Steve Cooper

http://www.nzgto.cjb.net.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 03:47:31 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Windshield washer bottle in front bumper addition to 2G

Hello everyone,

I have seen on the list now and again that some of you have windshield
washer bottles in the front bumper. So, do you have an empty space by the
battery in the engine bay (where I have my stock washer bottle). The reason
why I'm asking is:

Can I buy one of these washer bottles and put it in the bumpers of my 95 VR4
and my brother's 94 TT? Has anyone done this addition to a 2G car? Keeping
my options open for a water injection tank in the future without having to
disable my stock water tank and without having to place something all the
way to the trunk.

- -MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4

John, brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow TT

Detroit Metro Area, Michigan

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:11:20 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Windshield washer bottle in front bumper addition to 2G

- --=====================_4310357==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Mike,

I have seen on the list now and again that some of you have windshield
washer bottles in the front bumper.

All European cars do have a light-washer installed. This consists of a
shaped water tank that sits upon the crash guard. It fits every 3S but I
don't know if it does on an aftermarktet front.

my options open for a water injection tank in the future without having to
disable my stock water tank and without having to place something all the
way to the trunk.

http://www.rtec.ch/water_injection.html

Here's the tanks show (about 4 liters volume)
Contact me privately if you want one. It has to be ordered from Japan and
therefore it takes some time. Price is about $80 without shipping. I do
have to check out as Mistu rised the parts prices for about 20% this year :(

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- --=====================_4310357==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
 
Mike, 
 
I have seen on the list now and again that some of you have
windshield 
washer bottles in the front bumper. 
 
All European cars do have a light-washer installed. This consists of a
shaped water tank that sits upon the crash guard. It fits every 3S but I
don't know if it does on an aftermarktet front. 
 
my options open for a water injection tank in the future without having
to 
disable my stock water tank and without having to place something all
the 
way to the trunk. 
 
<a href="http://www.rtec.ch/water_injection.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.rtec.ch/water_injection.html 
 
</a>Here's the tanks show (about 4 liters volume) 
Contact me privately if you want one. It has to be ordered from Japan and
therefore it takes some time. Price is about $80 without shipping. I do
have to check out as Mistu rised the parts prices for about 20% this year
:( 
 
Roger 
93'3000GT TT 
www.rtec.ch 
</html>

- --=====================_4310357==_.ALT--

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:45:30 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question? (ONLY TT)

>Knocklink. Made here in New Zealand. It just wires up to the existing knock
>sensor. It does basically the same as the MSD . I have bought one but it's
>not wired in yet. I do know people who have them with no complaints. Price
>is about NZ$100 which is only approx US$43.

Yes, it's nothing else than a microphone amplifier with volume meter. It
may work pretty well when it doesn't foul the stock microphone circuit i
nthe ECU. This is why I really need the ECU layout and schematics diagram
to find out.

>Now as far as monitoring the stock BC solenoid goes, it all depends if
>you've upgraded the injectors.Simple really when you think about it. With
>standard injectors the ECU modulates the BC solenoid to try to keep the
>boost from exceeding the factory preset level.

You are right on what the ECU to the BCS does under normal conditions but
it is also deactivated (i.e. closed to flow all the pressure to the
wastegate actuators) when knock occurs, the fuel value jumps off the
tables, ignition is retarded heavily or it falls into the emergency limp
program.

>Monitoring it for knock wont
>work, however if the injectors have been upgraded like mine .....
>...... at well over 20 pounds.Knock will normally happen well before this so
>monitoring the solenoid for knock should work ok.

You say it won't and then it should ?

To make it short, as we all increased boost and some of us installed an A/F
tweaker the ECU indeed sees lower airflow to let it think it sprays less
fuel. Therefore, the boost solenoid will be open much longer until it
calculates the rate where to close it. This leads to the assumption that
the LED on the BCS will work better on cars with an AFC installed as it
will not be initiated by the ECU due to airflow. When knock occurs the
timing gets retarded and on a higher value the BCS closed for safety.

Conclusion : If one has installed an AFC the easy LED Knock Monitor should
really show when knock is there. Not how much but the presence of any. I
think this is worth a try for sure ... damn, another split into the
harness. Attention : Although this works on all year models, it will
probably not act the same due to the different AFC settings we are using.
We need different test-cars with the datalogger that have a different setup
to fix the findings that then can be adopted to the 2nd gen cars.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:43:21 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?

>I am in the middle of calibraiting my MSD knock sensor with my new TMO
>datalogger.I am running in DOS because the computer is old, I just got it
>up and
>running and saw that the TMO is seeing 0 sum for knock. This is a brand new
>motor with JE pistons that have been coated by HPC and 15c turbos running @ 12
>psi no cats and a BORLA exhaust with dual EGTS @ the manifolds. It looks
>like I
>should have replaced the knock sensor when I had the chance.

Why replacing the knock sensor ? I'm not seeing any knock until 15 psi on
my "old" engine too. And at 12 psi with the larger turbos what results in
lower combustion temperatures I would be worried if I'd see any sign of
knock above a sum of 10.With your setup, you should not see any knock as
you also have upgraded thefuel system for sure (why else would you run
larger turbos).

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:16:43 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dead battery

As a resident of Pennsylvania and living a mere 80 miles from Punxsutawney
(where Phil the Groundhog gives his annual weather report) I beg to differ
that we would have Spring had someone shot the $#%#@ groundhog.

On the contrary, you should use this time to practice cold-weather driving,
snow traction techniques, cold tire adhesion principles, etc.

Back to the question at hand I would suggest a racing battery (like Optima
and the like) that don't have acid to leak and can take repeated 100% drains
without zapping battery life. There are several out there and the links are
on Jeff's awesome webpage. At only $60 for a stock battery or so it is a
cheap price for sound performance. For a bit more I feel the racing
batteries offer good power (750+ CCA) and the safety and peace of mind of a
non-leaking battery.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 with an Optima Red Top battery on the way
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 21:50

If somebody had shot that $#%#@ groundhog, I'd be putting the car back on
the road, heading up to Mnpls to get the boost controller and water
injection put in (I can taste that Moose Drool beer already!) and getting
set for another season. Alas, it snowed again today.

Rich/old poop

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 13:31:46 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo exhaust system question

I sent this message the other day and didn't get much a response, so I
thought I'd try it one more time. :)

- - Brian

> Actually as long as we're on the subject, what (in order of
> restriction) are
> the bottle necks in the stock exhaust system? Improving the flow of a
> system can only be acheived by improving the flow of the most
> restrictive
> part, so there must be an order in which exhaust mods should
> be performed.
> For example, if the stock cat can flow more exhaust than the
> stock muffler,
> it seems to me that removing the cat without changing the
> muffler will do
> nothing (except possibly make your car louder). So...what's
> the order?
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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End of team3s V1 #408
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