team3s Wednesday,
February 14 2001 Volume 01
: Number
407
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:09:46 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.
> > My
guess is that the peak is for a short duration and is due
> > to the
increased turbo spool-up speed.
>
> What increased the spool-up
rate?
He put in a new down pipe and gutted the precats.
> > I doubt that replacing the stock boost control solenoid
>
> will solve the overboost, though perhaps you could
> > borrow one
from a TT/VR4 owner in the neighborhood.
>
> I agree with this, I
doubt a new solenoid is the answer. If the solenoid is
>
mechanically bad, if anything the boost would go down or remain the
same.
>
> > Most likely, the ECU and stock solenoid can't
handle
> > the faster spoolup times (the ECU has a lot of other
>
> things to do too).
>
> The ECU doesn't really try to control
the boost level.
Sure it does, it just is not as sophistocated as
it could be. It doesn't adjust
the boost level based on a pressure
measurement in a closed control loop (this
is probably what you meant).
It will however modulate the solenoid at (I'm
guessing) a predetermined
frequency in order to make boost. The solenoid isn't
always modulating
-- just when the ECU wants it to, based on some type of
measurment no doubt
(perhaps throttle position or air flow). Also if the ECU
detects knock,
it will lower the frequency of the modulation to decrease chance
of
knock. This definitely is a form of boost level control.
>
It does try to
> flatten out the curve a little bit, but it has no idea of
what the boost
> pressure actually is. I think there is probably an
air leak somewhere in
> the hoses or connectors between the Y-pipe
connection and the wastegates or
> boost control solenoid. Only a
leak should allow overboost.
Could very well be a leak, but there are
frequently other possibilities we
sometimes overlook. A faster spool-up
time could also be the reason. Looking
for leaks is definitely a good
first step and also the cheapest.
> > An electronic boost
controller will solve overboost since it
> > has a cpu dedicated to
boost control and will probably react
> > faster than the ECU.
>
> Even with the stock boost control solenoid open at all times the
car
> shouldn't overboost.
Not sure what you mean here by "open at
all times". If you mean the solenoid is
not modulating but is
constantly energized so that pressure is constantly being
bled off, there
will definetly be overboost, up to 19+ psi at low RPM for the
9B's.
This is the same thing as disconnecting a hose off the boost
control
solenoid.
> Of course a better method of boost
control is always
> an advantage - but I think there's probably a simpler
(and less expensive)
> solution here somewhere if the only goal is to
eliminate the overboost.
If the overboost is due to a leak, then yes,
there is a simpler and less
expensive solution. If the overboost
results from faster spoolup time, then
some way to control the spool up rate
is the solution, i.e. some sort of
restriction in the exhaust path, a boost
controller, or possibly something else
we haven't thought of yet.
Good
discussion!
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:15:06
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: "Owl hoot" in engine bay
Yes thanks for those tips. I
think of it as not a bug but an undocumented
feature (that's the IT way of
saying a bug). I'll give that a shot.
One key piece of info that
might have led to this in the past week that
wasn't there for months and
months was the recent addition of some silicone
vacuum hoses on lots of
places. I might have clamped these tighter/looser
than the stock ones
were before causing a bit of the air breathing problem.
Thanks and I'll
report if any changed occur after some slight modifications.
Thanks to
all.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com1995
Black VR-4 w/ honking goose option
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 19:16:52
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem
>The same
place you have your DSBC hooked up to for the boost guage feature
>of the
DSBC.
Yep, this is correct.
>Ok, being that the solenoid is
eliminated from the setup and I peak at
>.59bar. You say I should not be
going past .4bar. So then I may have a leak
>somewhere from the bottom
hose of the solenoid down, or the actuators
>themselves?
Yes, this
is a possibility that there is a small crack in the hose. You can
check this
with a pressure holding hand pump by applying pressure. If it
fades away
(hook up the boost sensor to the actuator line) you definitely
have a
leak.
Or do you have a chance to test it with another boost meter
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 19:21:29
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.
>it was
plugged to the solenoid. This leads me believe that fault is in
the
>solenoid, seems as if it is always in an open position.
Yes,
it is possible too.
>There are two hoses connected to the wastegate
solenoid. The top hose leads
>to the intake of the rear turbo. The second
hose which I disconnected leads
>to a four-way connector.
It
doesn't matter what is where.
>A leak in any of the hoses at these
points would affect the signal going to
>the wastegates and cause an
overboost situation.
Yep, absolutely
right.
>connecting to the fourway connector, or the
wastegates. So all that's left
>now is the solenoid, and being that if I
bring the solenoid back into the
>picture my car will overboost
again......I think the problem is in the
>solenoid.
No, a small cut
in the vacuum hoses may also cause such a situation.
Just make the
vacuum/pressure test and yo ukow for sure then (go up to 1
bar
pressure)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:25:39
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.
>No, a
small cut in the vacuum hoses may also cause such a situation.
>Just make
the vacuum/pressure test and yo ukow for sure then (go up to 1
>bar
pressure)
Thanks, will do the vacuum/pressure test and let you know the
results.
Thanks for your input and everyone else who
responded.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:33:59
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.(was What
isstoc k boost for a 95 VR-4? )
> Question for all you turbo gurus out
there: is this actually the way the
> stock boost control setup
works? I always assumed that the wastegate
> solenoid was the sole
controller of whether the wastegates were open or
> closed (ie the
wastegates would open under any pressure). From this
> description
is sounds like the wastegates have their own pressure sensors
> that cause
them to open at a given (and I'm assuming non-adjustable)
>
pressure. If the latter is the case, then what's the purpose of
the
> wastegate solenoid?
(substitue wastegate solenoid with boost
control solenoid)
As Roger stated, the wastegate actuators have springs
that open around 6 psi of
pressure. The job of the boost control
solenoid is to regulate the amount of
air being bled off. If the
solenoid is closed, no air gets bled, the wastegates
will open around 6 psi
so that will be the max boost attained. If the solenoid
is open all the
time, then pressure is constantly bled, so it will take around
19 psi at the
source for the wastegate to see the required 6 psi because some of
the 19 psi
pressure is bled off. If the solenoid is modualated, then it takes
less
than 19 psi to actuate the wastegates. The ECU modulates the solenoid
so
1st gen cars make about 9.5 psi and 2nd gen cars make about 12
psi.
> And would replacing the wastegate solenoid with a
>
contraption that only opened at a predefined pressure (say, .9 bar)
>
effectively control boost?
This is exactly what a manual boost controller
does. It uses an adjustable ball
& spring valve to bleed air at the
desired setting. Thus you can adjust the
spring pressure so that it
requires 15 psi off boost to actuate the wastegates.
- --
If you
lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:34:00
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Non-member needs stock 3k BOV...
Non-member, non-owner, but maybe
someone can help him out. Please reply
to him
privately...
TIA,
F
- --------------------
Hello
list,
I am a stranger to these parts. I am involved with Rally
racing and am
building a Lancer to race this year. I need a stock 3000
GT BOV with
the metal ring visible around the diameter. If you have one
to sell me
please contact me at:
timmerman_paul@hotmail.comI
just want a stock 3000GT BOV, and your list will have them in droves.
If you
can just pass a note to your list that I want to buy one I would
be truly
grateful. It is an upgrade to the all plastic model that came
on my
Lancer EVO iV, which I hope to build into a rally
special.
Thanks,
Paul Timmerman
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:40:24
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
Actually Roger, it does. I have
been using it for a year now. It informed
me under no uncertain
circumstances that I had knock present. An inspection
of the water
injection tank (found to be empty) confirmed that probability.
John
Basol
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [
SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:44 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:
Knock sensor question?
>firewall. You just hook up a
resistor and LED on the output wire
from the
>ECU and watch to see if
the light is continually on.
Nah, this doesn't work on our
cars.
>"smoother" so flickering is okay. If it is on all the
time, then
the ECU
>has detected excessive knock and is trying to
reduce boost to
reduce the
>amount of knock.
No, it is always on
after a particular amount of air sensed compared
to the
rpm and the
calculated load (i.e to control boost)
>It essentially functions the
same as it does for the DSM guys. For
2G cars,
>look
here:
Not really, it's the same stuff but we measure another amount of
air
and
our ECU doesn't work the same way to control
boost.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:41:08
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.(was
What isstoc k boost for a 95 VR-4? )
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 10:34 AM
> To: Geddes, Brian J
>
Cc: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my
overboost
> problem.(was What isstoc k boost for a 95 VR-4? )
>
>
>
> > Question for all you turbo gurus out there: is
this
> actually the way the
> > stock boost control setup
works? I always assumed that the
> wastegate
> > solenoid
was the sole controller of whether the wastegates
> were open or
>
> closed (ie the wastegates would open under any pressure). From
this
> > description is sounds like the wastegates have their own
> pressure sensors
> > that cause them to open at a given (and
I'm assuming non-adjustable)
> > pressure. If the latter is the
case, then what's the purpose of the
> > wastegate solenoid?
>
> (substitue wastegate solenoid with boost control solenoid)
>
> As Roger stated, the wastegate actuators have springs that
>
open around 6 psi of
> pressure. The job of the boost control
solenoid is to
> regulate the amount of
> air being bled off.
If the solenoid is closed, no air gets
> bled, the wastegates
>
will open around 6 psi so that will be the max boost
> attained. If
the solenoid
> is open all the time, then pressure is constantly bled, so
it
> will take around
> 19 psi at the source for the wastegate to
see the required 6
> psi because some of
> the 19 psi pressure is
bled off. If the solenoid is
> modualated, then it takes
>
less than 19 psi to actuate the wastegates. The ECU
> modulates the
solenoid so
> 1st gen cars make about 9.5 psi and 2nd gen cars make about
12 psi.
>
>
> > And would replacing the wastegate
solenoid with a
> > contraption that only opened at a predefined
pressure (say, .9 bar)
> > effectively control boost?
>
>
This is exactly what a manual boost controller does. It uses
> an
adjustable ball
> & spring valve to bleed air at the desired
setting. Thus you
> can adjust the
> spring pressure so that
it requires 15 psi off boost to
> actuate the wastegates.
>
I assume this will produce an 'all-or-nothing' boost behavior...is that
any
more prone to overboosting or harder on the turbos than the stock
boost
control solenoid?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:46:24
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.
> Not
sure what you mean here by "open at all times". If you
> mean the
solenoid is not modulating but is constantly
> energized so that pressure
is constantly being bled off,
> there will definetly be overboost, up to
19+ psi at low
> RPM for the 9B's. This is the same thing as
>
disconnecting a hose off the boost control solenoid.
It isn't the same as
unhooking the hose because the inner diameter going
through the boost
solenoid is much smaller than the diameter of the hose.
In fact, on the
earlier cars ('91-93) there is a restriction orifice
inserted in the end of
the solenoid to further reduce the bleedoff flow to
keep boost down to the
300hp level. Disconnecting the hose will allow a
substantially greater
amount of air to bleed off than the solenoid allows.
> Good
discussion!
I agree! There are a lot of little quirks in the boost
control system on
these cars - and when a person first looks at it and tries
to figure it out,
the workings of it isn't immediately clear.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:52:47
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.(was
Whatisstoc k boost for a 95 VR-4? )
> > > And would replacing
the wastegate solenoid with a
> > > contraption that only opened at
a predefined pressure (say, .9 bar)
> > > effectively control
boost?
> >
> > This is exactly what a manual boost controller
does. It uses
> > an adjustable ball
> > & spring
valve to bleed air at the desired setting. Thus you
> > can
adjust the
> > spring pressure so that it requires 15 psi off boost
to
> > actuate the wastegates.
> >
>
> I assume
this will produce an 'all-or-nothing' boost behavior...is that any
> more
prone to overboosting or harder on the turbos than the stock boost
>
control solenoid?
>
Folks that use them report very good results
actually. They don't spike much
and they hold very stable
pressure. They just don't remain open or closed --
they actually
modulate themselves as pressure rises and falls about their set
point.
-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:03:13
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem.
> >
Not sure what you mean here by "open at all times". If you
> >
mean the solenoid is not modulating but is constantly
> > energized so
that pressure is constantly being bled off,
> > there will definetly be
overboost, up to 19+ psi at low
> > RPM for the 9B's. This is the
same thing as
> > disconnecting a hose off the boost control
solenoid.
>
> It isn't the same as unhooking the hose because the
inner diameter going
> through the boost solenoid is much smaller than the
diameter of the hose.
> In fact, on the earlier cars ('91-93) there is a
restriction orifice
> inserted in the end of the solenoid to further
reduce the bleedoff flow to
> keep boost down to the 300hp level.
Disconnecting the hose will allow a
> substantially greater amount of air
to bleed off than the solenoid allows.
Depends on which hose you
disconnect. Disconnecting the hose that comes off the
H connector and
goes to the solenoid will provide the least restriction and
allow the
greatest amount of overboost. Disconnecting the hose that goes from
the
solenoid to the intake behind the rear turbo will provide results
very
similar to the solenoid being open all the time.
- --
If you
lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:13:15
EST
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
convertable 92 stealth TT
In a message dated 2/13/01 7:47:10 AM Eastern
Standard Time,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
writes:
<< and for that price and mileage ... it must be
either a base or at
most an ES model. >>
The body id
definitely that of an RT. But its missing the TT insignia on the
doors.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:30:04
-0600
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: convertable 92 stealth TT
Nope, look closely at the first
photo in the auction description, Twin Turbo is clearly visible. Furthermore,
only 1st Gen. Stealth TT's had dual exhaust exits. R/T's and below had only
single exits on the driver's side.
For What It's
Worth..
Craig
94 Twin Turbo
>>> <
Merlin916@aol.com> 02/13/01 01:13PM
>>>
In a message dated 2/13/01 7:47:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
writes:
<< and for that price and mileage ... it must be
either a base or at
most an ES model. >>
The body id
definitely that of an RT. But its missing the TT insignia on the
doors.
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:31:14
-0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: convertable 92 stealth TT
Craig Golema wrote:
>
Nope, look closely at the first photo in the auction description, Twin
Turbo is clearly visible. Furthermore, only 1st Gen. Stealth TT's had dual
exhaust exits. R/T's and below had only single exits on the driver's
side.
>
> For What It's Worth..
>
> Craig
> 94
Twin Turbo
>
Besides, that doesn't matter. I've got a '91 TT
and it never had the Twin Turbo isignia on the doors. This car has been on
EBay before. THe seller was asking ALOT more for it the first time
around. Must be soemthing wrong
with it...structurally or otherwise for
them to dump it at a drastically cheaper price like that.
- --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:47:51
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Convertible Sources (was: convertible 92 stealth TT)
I missed seeing the
one on eBay, but there are undoubtedly many shops
that can do a good
conversion. Typically, the frame is beefed up with
additional X-members
underneath and with angle irons on the door posts.
Then the top is chopped
and the body resculpted, and a hand-made top is
installed.
There's a
trio of shops in the Newport Beach / Costa Mesa (CA) area, all
of which have
done 3S converts: The oldest and best (if they're still
around - I
couldn't find them) is Richard Straman, who did the first
Stealth conversion
in '91; it was showcased in Automobile Magazine and
R&T. [I have
one article scanned - email privately if you want it].
Straman gained even
more notoriety a few years ago when he did the
Austin Powers "Flower Power"
VW Bug convert. His versions usually
include redesigned rear quarter
power windows, since he specializes in
custom jobs for the Testarossa
set... Pretty sophisticated stuff. As
of a year ago, he was
charging around $15k for a power top - and he's
done close to 100 of
them.
The other 2 shops are SVC (Special Vehicle Concepts, contact:
Peter
Cameron) and NCE (Newport Convertible Engineering, contact: Al
Zadeh).
Sorry, I don't have the Phone#s or URLs for any of
them...
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
I've actually seen that car somewhere before. It is an AWD/TT car,
>
converted by a shop in Florida. I think he tried to sell it last
year
also.
> There is actually quite a lot of structural strength in
the 3/S cars
> built-in, which is part of the reason they are so
heavy. Removing the
roof
> is always questionable as to how much
rigidity is left, but
reinforcement
> doesn't usually have to be very
extensive. Something as simple as a
few
> strong angle-iron
pieces under the door sills can be enough in some
cases.
>
> It
looks like the conversion was well done, and the roof sits nice
when
>
down. It even looks good with the top up. I think there was a
black
one
> that was featured in Road and Track or one of the other car
magazines
a
> while back which was extremely well done.
>
>
It ends in 10 minutes, so you might wanna hurry if you want it.
;-)
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> (I like the
retracting hardtop better though...)
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:10:44
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Would any other tranny fit our cars???
I was reading through
Excellence and was thinking about how strong the
transmission must be in the
911's and then I was reading car and driver and
saw where on the Mosler
MT900 they mounted a Porsche transmission to the
LT-1. Would it be
possible to mount a different tranny to a VR-4/TT? I
know that it
probably would not bolt right up to the engine but couldn't a
mounting plate
be fabricated to allow the two to
mate?
Michael
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 00:39:34
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation (was RE: Found what was
causing my overboost problem)
Michael,
>I think I'll opt for
the boost controller, any opinions on boost
controllers besides the Blitz
DSBC.
>
>Regards,
>Michael Bulaon
Both myself and my
brother have the new APEXI AVC-R boost controllers
installed on our cars (95
VR4 and 94 TT). It is a great unit, and we are
both happy. It
reccords RPM, SPEED, BOOST, Throttle, Soleonoid, Injector
Duty Cycle.
It has numerical gauges, analog gauges, and bar graph displays.
It uses fuzzy
logic and it learns different gears if you so chose to. If
left in
learning mode it will adjust to different altitudes, barometric
pressures,
and temps. Its boost and dutyies are adjustable in increments of
500
RPM(smallest increment)(real nice). It also has a peak hold value
to
monitor the maximum values reached. It has night and day settings
for
different light conditions that get changed automatically.
Al in
all, it is a very nice unit. Go for it! It is a bit tricky to
tune
at the beginning, but once you do it once or twice, it becomes a piece
of
cake. Keep in mind that you will need the K&N FIPK and a
reputable Boost
Gauge (in a pod) aside from the unit. The EGT Gauge is
optional, but a nice
thing to have for your car's safety.
Accelerated
Accessories-Chris (mention 3SI)
301-393-8800
Here are the prices I
paid:
Apexi AVC-R Actuator Valve Controller Type-R - KIT $500.00
K&N
Filter Charger Injection Performance Kit $159.00
Autometer Boost Gauge
$60.00
Gredy EGT Gauge $163.00
Dual Pod $30.00
Shipping for above 5
items $20.00
TOTAL $932.00
Shop around and see if anyone can beat
these prices. Also, the prices may
have come down a bit in 1/2 yr since
the install. It's best to get
everything from one place
though.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
John,
brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed
after mods 169 mph
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:48:30
-0800
From: "John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation (was RE:
Found what was causing my overboost problem)
FYI there is a group
purchase on the AVC-R on 3si.org. Take a look in the
classifieds section. If
we can get 10 people the price is going to be $400
plus shipping...which
shouldn't be all that much.
John Paul Dauber
1991 3000GT VR-4
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation
(was RE: Found what was causing my
overboost problem)
> Michael,
>
> >I think I'll opt
for the boost controller, any opinions on boost
> controllers besides the
Blitz DSBC.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Michael
Bulaon
>
> Both myself and my brother have the new APEXI AVC-R boost
controllers
> installed on our cars (95 VR4 and 94 TT). It is a
great unit, and we are
> both happy. It reccords RPM, SPEED, BOOST,
Throttle, Soleonoid, Injector
> Duty Cycle. It has numerical gauges,
analog gauges, and bar graph
displays.
> It uses fuzzy logic and it
learns different gears if you so chose to. If
> left in learning
mode it will adjust to different altitudes, barometric
> pressures, and
temps. Its boost and dutyies are adjustable in increments
of
>
500 RPM(smallest increment)(real nice). It also has a peak hold value
to
> monitor the maximum values reached. It has night and day
settings for
> different light conditions that get changed
automatically.
>
> Al in all, it is a very nice unit. Go for
it! It is a bit tricky to tune
> at the beginning, but once you do
it once or twice, it becomes a piece of
> cake. Keep in mind that
you will need the K&N FIPK and a reputable Boost
> Gauge (in a pod)
aside from the unit. The EGT Gauge is optional, but a
nice
>
thing to have for your car's safety.
>
> Accelerated
Accessories-Chris (mention 3SI)
> 301-393-8800
>
> Here are
the prices I paid:
> Apexi AVC-R Actuator Valve Controller Type-R - KIT
$500.00
> K&N Filter Charger Injection Performance Kit $159.00
>
Autometer Boost Gauge $60.00
> Gredy EGT Gauge $163.00
> Dual Pod
$30.00
> Shipping for above 5 items $20.00
> TOTAL
$932.00
>
> Shop around and see if anyone can beat these
prices. Also, the prices may
> have come down a bit in 1/2 yr since
the install. It's best to get
> everything from one place
though.
>
>
>
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu> 95 Red VR4
>
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
>
> John, brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu> 94 Pearl
Yellow TT
> Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> K&N FIPK,
Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
> G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4
mph)
> Top speed after mods 169 mph
>
> Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 03:22:09
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: Knock sensor question?
Matt,
Thanks for the idea about a knock
LED on the wire between the ECU and stock
soleonoid. It sounds easy
enough to do. Can this be detrimental to the
ECU?
If the list
arrives at the consensus that putting an LED on the knock wire
of the stock
soleonoid is OK, I guess I will opt to do it. It's a verry
cheap
solution.
However, I'm still curious how Roger Gerl's (more scientific
method of
measuring knock) MSD knock sensor turns out to work. $150 is
not a bad
price either for peace of mind.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jannusch, Matt [
mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>
I think John was talking about the stock boost control solenoid on the
>
firewall. You just hook up a resistor and LED on the output wire from
the
> ECU and watch to see if the light is continually on. On
second
> gen cars it
> kind of flickers here and there to try to
modulate boost to be a bit
> "smoother" so flickering is okay. If it
is on all the time, then the ECU
> has detected excessive knock and is
trying to reduce boost to reduce the
> amount of knock. At that
point it usually stays on for quite a
> while, over
> multiple
driving sessions.
>
> It essentially functions the same as it does
for the DSM guys.
> For 2G cars,
> look here:
>
>
http://www.jps.net/~warranty/DSM/KnockLED.htm>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:55:24
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
> Thanks for the idea about a
knock LED on the wire between the
> ECU and stock soleonoid. It
sounds easy enough to do. Can
> this be detrimental to the
ECU?
As long as you use a resistor inline with the LED to provide some
resistance
on the circuit you'll be okay. Use the same setup as on the
URL that I sent
out in the original message and you should be fine.
With a resistor of
proper value it'll just look like a very small load on
that circuit, nothing
in comparison to the load the solenoid
provides.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:08:47
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
Matt,
I guess I don't
understand how this works. Perhaps I misinterpreted
the LED setup. The
manuals explain that when the ECU allows current
to go to the solenoid (and
so lighting the LED), the solenoid opens a
valve and air bleeds off, thus
*increasing* boost. The manuals imply
that when knock is detected boost is
reduced, meaning that current is
*not* sent to the solenoid (or that the LED
is not lit, or lit less
often). So how exactly does this LED setup indicate
knock again?
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
aa2345@wayne.edu>; "Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor
question?
> Thanks for the idea about a knock LED on the wire
between the
> ECU and stock soleonoid. It sounds easy enough to
do. Can
> this be detrimental to the ECU?
As long as you use
a resistor inline with the LED to provide some
resistance on the circuit
you'll be okay. Use the same setup as on
the URL that I sent out in the
original message and you should be
fine. With a resistor of proper
value it'll just look like a very
small load on that circuit, nothing in
comparison to the load the
solenoid provides.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year!
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:27:58
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
> I guess I don't understand
how this works. Perhaps I misinterpreted
> the LED setup. The manuals
explain that when the ECU allows current
> to go to the solenoid (and so
lighting the LED), the solenoid opens a
> valve and air bleeds off, thus
*increasing* boost. The manuals imply
> that when knock is detected boost
is reduced, meaning that current is
> *not* sent to the solenoid (or that
the LED is not lit, or lit less
> often). So how exactly does this LED
setup indicate knock again?
It works because when the ECU wants to close
the solenoid it turns OFF the
power by removing ground from the
circuit. The patch of least resistance
then becomes the LED's circuit
and the LED lights up.
http://www.jps.net/~warranty/Pictures/KnockLED.jpg-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:42:16
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
Thanks! Now I understand. The
picture explains it. I don't think I
would use this as the only knock
detector (since I have a '92), but
it certainly is a lot better than
nothing.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
"Team3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor
question?
> I guess I don't understand how this works. Perhaps I
misinterpreted
> the LED setup. The manuals explain that when the ECU
allows current
> to go to the solenoid (and so lighting the LED), the
solenoid opens
a
> valve and air bleeds off, thus *increasing* boost.
The manuals
imply
> that when knock is detected boost is reduced,
meaning that current
is
> *not* sent to the solenoid (or that the LED
is not lit, or lit less
> often). So how exactly does this LED setup
indicate knock again?
It works because when the ECU wants to close the
solenoid it turns
OFF the power by removing ground from the circuit.
The patch of
least resistance then becomes the LED's circuit and the LED
lights
up.
http://www.jps.net/~warranty/Pictures/KnockLED.jpg-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a
year!
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:53:54
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
>would use this as the only
knock detector (since I have a '92), but
>it certainly is a lot better
than nothing.
Well, it is still not sure what it really will show because
on my car it
flashed the LED with zero knock on the Datalogger. After teh
airflow went
up to a specific level it was always on as it tried to decrease
power (to
less than 10 psi). The Datalogger still not showed any knock. I
haven't
done more testings as I didn't wanted to increase knock for this
puprose
and teh Datalogger was much more reliable than this mode as well as
my WI
system activates a warning light when the water-pressure goes
down.
To correctly find out what is showing the test with a datalogger
should be
done again together with the LED.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 10:09:39
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
> To correctly find out what is
showing the test with a
> datalogger should be done again together with
the LED.
That would be great, but as you very well know the 2G cars do
NOT have
access to a datalogger with any sort of knock indication no matter
whether
you can use an OBD-II scanner or not.
I'll take a rough-guess,
not-very-accurate, anything-I-can-get hacked-on LED
warning light as opposed
to the non-solution that is routinely heard on this
problem. The answer
is always "Verify it with a datalogger", but 2G guys
CAN'T DO
THAT!
Something is better than nothing.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:34:32
-0700
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation (was RE:
Found what was causing my overboost problem)
I bought mine for $380
(including shipping) from one of the places off of
Jeff Lucius' links
page. I'll look it up and post it. I didn't have to get
10 people
to help out either. :)
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@worldnet.att.net>
To:
<
aa2345@wayne.edu>; <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
Reccomendation (was RE: Found what was causing my
overboost problem)
> FYI there is a group purchase on the AVC-R on
3si.org. Take a look in the
> classifieds section. If we can get 10 people
the price is going to be $400
> plus shipping...which shouldn't be all
that much.
>
> John Paul Dauber
> 1991 3000GT
VR-4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mihai Raicu"
<
aa2345@wayne.edu>
> To:
<
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>
Cc: "Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:39 PM
> Subject: Team3S: RE: Apexi
AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
Reccomendation
> (was RE: Found what
was causing my overboost problem)
>
>
> > Michael,
>
>
> > >I think I'll opt for the boost controller, any opinions on
boost
> > controllers besides the Blitz DSBC.
> > >
>
> >Regards,
> > >Michael Bulaon
> >
> > Both
myself and my brother have the new APEXI AVC-R boost controllers
> >
installed on our cars (95 VR4 and 94 TT). It is a great unit, and
we
are
> > both happy. It reccords RPM, SPEED, BOOST,
Throttle, Soleonoid,
Injector
> > Duty Cycle. It has numerical
gauges, analog gauges, and bar graph
> displays.
> > It uses
fuzzy logic and it learns different gears if you so chose to.
If
> >
left in learning mode it will adjust to different altitudes, barometric
>
> pressures, and temps. Its boost and dutyies are adjustable
in
increments
> of
> > 500 RPM(smallest increment)(real
nice). It also has a peak hold value
to
> > monitor the
maximum values reached. It has night and day settings for
> >
different light conditions that get changed automatically.
> >
>
> Al in all, it is a very nice unit. Go for it! It is a bit
tricky to
tune
> > at the beginning, but once you do it once or
twice, it becomes a piece
of
> > cake. Keep in mind that you
will need the K&N FIPK and a reputable
Boost
> > Gauge (in a
pod) aside from the unit. The EGT Gauge is optional, but a
>
nice
> > thing to have for your car's safety.
> >
> >
Accelerated Accessories-Chris (mention 3SI)
> > 301-393-8800
>
>
> > Here are the prices I paid:
> > Apexi AVC-R Actuator
Valve Controller Type-R - KIT $500.00
> > K&N Filter Charger
Injection Performance Kit $159.00
> > Autometer Boost Gauge
$60.00
> > Gredy EGT Gauge $163.00
> > Dual Pod $30.00
>
> Shipping for above 5 items $20.00
> > TOTAL $932.00
>
>
> > Shop around and see if anyone can beat these prices.
Also, the prices
may
> > have come down a bit in 1/2 yr since the
install. It's best to get
> > everything from one place
though.
> >
> >
> >
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu> > 95 Red
VR4
> > Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> > K&N
FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
> >
> > John, brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu> > 94
Pearl Yellow TT
> > Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
>
> K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
> > G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4
mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
> > Top speed after mods 169 mph
>
>
> > Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
> >
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:45:22
-0700
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation (was RE:
Found what was causing my overboost problem)
I purchased mine from Mach V
Motorsports (
www.machv.com). I don't
see it
listed on their web page but they made me a pretty good deal and might
still
have them for around the same price. I am enjoying my AVC-R but
was very
frustrated with the setup. Most of my problem was that I'm at
an altitude
of 5600 feet which drastically changes they way that it needs to
be set up.
I've got it down pretty pat now though.
Good
Luck!
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
To:
"John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@worldnet.att.net>;
<
aa2345@wayne.edu>;
<
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 14, 2001 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
Reccomendation (was RE: Found what was causing my
overboost problem)
> I bought mine for $380 (including shipping)
from one of the places off of
> Jeff Lucius' links page. I'll look
it up and post it. I didn't have to
get
> 10 people to help out
either. :)
>
> Ken Wheeler
> '92 RT/TT
> '67
Mustang
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Paul
Dauber" <
jpdauber@worldnet.att.net>
>
To: <
aa2345@wayne.edu>; <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>
Cc: "Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Apexi
AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> Reccomendation (was RE: Found what was
causing my overboost problem)
>
>
> > FYI there is a group
purchase on the AVC-R on 3si.org. Take a look in
the
> > classifieds
section. If we can get 10 people the price is going to be
$400
> >
plus shipping...which shouldn't be all that much.
> >
> > John
Paul Dauber
> > 1991 3000GT VR-4
> >
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
> > To: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>
> Cc: "Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:39 PM
> > Subject: Team3S: RE:
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> Reccomendation
> > (was
RE: Found what was causing my overboost problem)
> >
>
>
> > > Michael,
> > >
> > > >I think
I'll opt for the boost controller, any opinions on boost
> > >
controllers besides the Blitz DSBC.
> > > >
> > >
>Regards,
> > > >Michael Bulaon
> > >
> >
> Both myself and my brother have the new APEXI AVC-R boost
controllers
> > > installed on our cars (95 VR4 and 94 TT). It
is a great unit, and we
> are
> > > both happy. It
reccords RPM, SPEED, BOOST, Throttle, Soleonoid,
> Injector
> >
> Duty Cycle. It has numerical gauges, analog gauges, and bar
graph
> > displays.
> > > It uses fuzzy logic and it learns
different gears if you so chose to.
> If
> > > left in
learning mode it will adjust to different altitudes,
barometric
> >
> pressures, and temps. Its boost and dutyies are adjustable in
>
increments
> > of
> > > 500 RPM(smallest increment)(real
nice). It also has a peak hold value
> to
> > > monitor
the maximum values reached. It has night and day settings for
> >
> different light conditions that get changed automatically.
> >
>
> > > Al in all, it is a very nice unit. Go for it!
It is a bit tricky to
> tune
> > > at the beginning, but once
you do it once or twice, it becomes a piece
> of
> > >
cake. Keep in mind that you will need the K&N FIPK and a
reputable
> Boost
> > > Gauge (in a pod) aside from the
unit. The EGT Gauge is optional, but
a
> > nice
> >
> thing to have for your car's safety.
> > >
> > >
Accelerated Accessories-Chris (mention 3SI)
> > >
301-393-8800
> > >
> > > Here are the prices I
paid:
> > > Apexi AVC-R Actuator Valve Controller Type-R - KIT
$500.00
> > > K&N Filter Charger Injection Performance Kit
$159.00
> > > Autometer Boost Gauge $60.00
> > > Gredy
EGT Gauge $163.00
> > > Dual Pod $30.00
> > > Shipping
for above 5 items $20.00
> > > TOTAL $932.00
> >
>
> > > Shop around and see if anyone can beat these
prices. Also, the prices
> may
> > > have come down a
bit in 1/2 yr since the install. It's best to get
> > >
everything from one place though.
> > >
> > >
>
> > -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu> > > 95 Red
VR4
> > > Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> > >
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
> > >
> > > John,
brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu> > > 94
Pearl Yellow TT
> > > Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost
Controller
> > > K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
> >
> G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
> > >
Top speed after mods 169 mph
> > >
> > > Detroit Metro
Area, Michigan
> > >
> > >
> > > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 11:10:15
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Reccomendation (was RE:
Found what was causing my overboost problem)
> you so chose to.
If left in learning mode it will adjust to different
> altitudes,
barometric pressures, and temps. Its boost and dutyies are
I have
the Blitz, and although I am very happy with it I still find it
frustrating
that it will does not compensate for the differing ranges
of RPM. I can be
in city traffic and have it dialed in perfectly in 1st
and 2nd gear at or
less than 4,000 rpm, but when I get on the
interstate and go WOT in 3rd and
4th gear the boost rises much
faster and it tends to overboost too
frequently. A variable 'gain'
would be great but alas it only has a single
setting. Not to mention
an amber backlight to match the rest of the dash
:-)
How is the apexi BC in this regard? I've often been running with
friends and been fine in town and then later gotten into the higher
gears and had to totally retune the blitz to keep it from shooting
right
past the limiter. The extra tuning involved wouldn't bother me
too
much.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:28:56
-0500
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Cat
removal
I have a '91 VR4 I purchased in California and had it sent to NY.
I would
like to remove the cat's. How hard is this to do? Will I
gain anything by
removing the
cat's?
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 11:33:40
-0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
SHOOTOUT ENTRY LIST Updated 2-14-01
DSM SHOOTOUT July 20-22 2001 List of
Entrants So Far, Updated
2-14-2001--
Norwalk Raceway Park, Norwalk
Ohio
Sponsor: Buschur Racing
Our Shootout is on Friday July 20;
Autocross July 21; ALL IMPORT
Shootout on July 22.
If you have
info/missing/needing change, email ME DIRECT
xwing@execpc.comYou can post info here,
or (better) at
http://64.39.19.113/ (the
"Track
Times" board on 3SI),
? denotes not sure if coming. Info
needed:
1)Your full name + "3SI nickname"
2)Car/color/Shop (if
associated with one)
3)City/State of origin
4)Hotel you're staying
at
5)email
1 Aaron "zentelis", 94 RT/TT, Hanover PA
2 Ryan Alavi
"StreetRacer", 95 VR4 black Altered Atmosphere, Bowie MD,
GTeklnc@aol.com3 Shaun Atkinson "Yellow
ES", 92 Stealth ES yellow, Farmersville OH,
4 Dave Best "Dave Best", 92 VR4
maroon, Kingstown VA, Amerihost Suites,
WDB039@erols.com5 Terry Bosserman
"black95rttt", 95RT/TT Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, Findlay
OH,
black95rttt@hotmail.com6 Brian
"allengineSL", 95 3000GT SL, Chicago IL
7 ?Bruce "Bruce", 95 VR4 red, Granada
Hills CA
8 Joe Canella, 96 VR4 Spyder Altered Atmosphere, MD
9 Wayne
Carickhoff "WAYNECAR", 95 VR4 yellow, Harrisonburg VA,
TTAWD@aol.com9 ?Eric Doerr, 93RT/TT white
Altered Atmosphere, MD
10 Shawn Enz, 94 3000GT SL, Philadelphia PA,
EnzS@towers.com11 Hans Ertl "Hans91GT", 91
3000GT, + 92 RT/TT Ground Zero Performance
hertl@snip.net12 Mike Feryok "MikeF", 92
RT/TT white, Detroit MI
13 ?Rob Flynn "akira410", 92 VR4 white + 97 VR4
white, Irvine CA
14 "igots2", 92 VR4
15 Joe Gonsowski "JoeG", 92 RT/TT
GTPro/GK Racing, Westland MI,
twinturbo@mediaone.net16 Rick
Hunter "Huntervr4", 93 VR4, Greenwood IN,
TT_3KGT@hotmail.com17 Matt Jannusch
"mjannusch", 95 VR4 Spyder white, Minneapolis MN,
mjannusch@marketwatch.com18
?J.B., 94 3000GT SL TT Altered Atmosphere
19 Jeff "mr2turb", 95VR4, Columbus
OH
20 Trent Karr "TKarr", 93 RT/TT, Wyomissing PA
21 Jim Kielma, RT/TT,
Cudahy WI,
jkielma@aol.com22 Jeff
Lucius "Jeff Lucius", 92 RT/TT red, Golden CO, Ramada Ltd,
jlucius@stealth316.com23 Shawn
MacArthur "BigBadVR4", 92VR4 black GT Pro,
Shawnmac@usa.net24 Mike Mahaffey
"Lotoboost", 94 Stealth + 96 VR4 Altered Atmosphere,
25 Omar Malik "ojm", 92
RT/TT or 92 TT Ground Zero Performance,
Philadelphia PA,
ojm@iname.com26 "Mellon", 91RT/TT
white
27 Dan Mercier "DanM_94_VR4", 94 VR4 green 3SX Automotive
Technology/GT
Pro, Louisville KY,
dan@3sxperts.com28 Matt Monett
"snakeskinner", 93 RT/TT white Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, NM
29 Nino "hated", 91
RT/TT "The Lab", San Diego CA, Super 8 Hotel,
hated@hotmail.com30 Anthony Ng "Antmay",
95 VR4, Rocky River OH,
anthony.ng@onbase.com31 Shawn M.
O'Connor "soc3GT95basn20", 95 3000GT n/a red, Charlotte NC
32 Pete Palamara
"palamarap", 92 VR4 blue Action Turbo/Altered
Atmosphere, Greenwood Village
CO,
pala@gwl.com33 "pokey293", 91 VR4
Dynamic Racing/GTPro, Phoenix AZ
34 "Racer X", RT/TT, Stockbridge GA
35
Jetinder Raja "Raja", 94 VR4 yellow, Lawrence KS
36 Greg Rush "rushvr4", 92
VR4 silver, Cincinnati OH,
rush@siscom.net37 Ryan "Shadowfax", 92
RT/TT
38 Ryan "PriOityp", 94 SL
39 James S. "James S", 94 RT/TT yellow,
Rockford IL,
FastYZFR6@aol.com40
Darren Schilberg, 95 VR4 black, Pittsburgh, PA,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com41
Matt Schneider "Schneider80", 95 VR4 blue, Chicago IL,
matt@cbcast.com42 Rob Schoen "rob", MI,
rschoen@home.com43 Vineet Singh, 92 RT/TT
blue, Naperville IL, Econolodge or Best
Western,
eagletek@ecanfix.com44 Josh Slusher
"Slush5", 91 Stealth SOHC blue/white, Celina OH,
Amerihost Inn,
slush5@hotmail.com45 Chris Smyrniotis
"fierce" 92 RT/TT green GT Pro, Chicago IL,
TridentD5@aol.com46 Jose Soriano
"Amahoser", 91 RT/TT red GT Pro, Southern CA
47 Jack Tertadian "xwing", 94
VR4 red Atomic Motorsports, Oak Creek WI,
Econolodge,
xwing@execpc.com48 Charles Theiss, 94
RT/TT yellow Altered Atmosphere Bethesda MD,
StealthCT@aol.com49 ?Trevor "Trevor"
96RT/TT red
50 Mike Tucker "1badVR4", 93 VR4 chameleon GT Pro, San Antonio
TX
51 Kevin Umbreit "unclesam099", 91 RT blue,
unclesam099@hotmail.com52
Christian Williamson "daprguy", 91 RT/NA champaign GTPro, S. CA
53 Jeff
Williamson "JeffW3000", 92 VR4 red, Belleville MI,
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com54 Bob
Witmer, 93 RT/TT, MI
Number of people: 54
Number of Shops: 8
(Altered Atmosphere, Atomic Motorsports, Dynamic
Racing, GKRacing, Ground
Zero Performance, GT Pro, The Lab, 3SX
Engineering)
Number of Stealths: 27
(some have not listed their car, some have more
than one car)
Number of
3000GTs: 30
BEEEE THEEEEERRE!!!
Thanks!
Jack
Tertadian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#407
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