team3s
Monday, February 12
2001 Volume 01
: Number
405
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 11 Feb 2001 13:37:32 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension, Springs Struts, Camber Plates??????
>What is
the max you can lower the car with GC springs?
With camber plates, you
can put it ON THE GROUND (literally). The camber
plates replace a three-inch
section at the top of the strut, so it
immediately lowers it by that much;
you have to crank the adjustable
suspension back up to get it off the
ground. We had my car so low it could
not clear a 1-in. curb to get
onto the alignment rack. We had to use a ramp
to get over the lip. We set it
at a more reasonable ride height once we got
onto the rack. (you can see it
at
www.bazillionbooks.com, click on
race
photos, Heartland Park November 2000). It's still pretty dang low. I
might
raise it up another inch; I hate to, because I've dialed out most of
the
understeer that way, but it's too low. It hits everything down there.
Without camber plates, about 1.5 in. front and rear. That's low enough
to
get rid of the unsightly space above the tire.
>and what would
be the
>optimum spring rate to get?
The optimal spring rate
depends on what you plan to do with the car. I race
it, so I have 550/315
front/rear, but I do not recommend this for daily
commuting. It will knock
your fillings out. Talk to the boys at GC; they
give good
advice.
>
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:59:09
EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Parts needed (OT?)
Hey there guys who are parting your cars out.
I'm trying to finish repairng a car I have. In order of importance, I
need the following parts:
- -Blower box
- -Evaporator box
-
-Heater box
(all three of these are under the dash and roughly 1' cubes)
- -Right front rail
- -Radiator support
- -ABS bracket unit
-
-Air canister
- -Subframe front member (with mount)
- -Subframe left
side member
There are some other parts that I need but they are either
model, transmission or generation specific. It would help me out a great deal if
you where to tell me your model, year and location (the closer to me the better)
and color if you REALLY want to help me out. I would also like it if you would
give me a price for what you have to offer. I know what Mits and Dodge want for
these things: WAY more than I'm willing to pay. I am of course looking to buy
these parts from fellow members as cheaply as possible. If you are not sure by
what I mean and think you might have the part, please feel free to email me with
any questions.
Thanks for reading down this far.
Ron
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:24:32
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Parts needed (OT?)
Hello Ron,
I have a bunch of these
things, here's my list:
Blower box
Evaporator box
Heater box
ABS
bracket unit - have all ABS stuff, can you clarify?
Air canister - evap
canister, right next to radiator?
Radiator support - the crossmember?
If yes, I have it.
I'm in Rochester, NY, these are all from a '91 Stealth
TT, stock colors =)
I would really like to sell these to you, they are in my
way... so I'm willing to work with you on prices and shipping.
Be in
touch!
Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
RDO26@aol.com wrote:
> Hey there guys
who are parting your cars out.
>
> I'm trying to finish repairng a
car I have. In order of importance, I need the following parts:
>
>
-Blower box
> -Evaporator box
> -Heater box
> (all three of
these are under the dash and roughly 1' cubes)
> -Right front rail
>
-Radiator support
> -ABS bracket unit
> -Air canister
>
-Subframe front member (with mount)
> -Subframe left side
member
>
> There are some other parts that I need but they are
either model, transmission or generation specific. It would help me out a great
deal if you where to tell me your model, year and location (the closer to me the
better) and color if you REALLY want to help me out. I would also like it if you
would give me a price for what you have to offer. I know what Mits and Dodge
want for these things: WAY more than I'm willing to pay. I am of course looking
to buy these parts from fellow members as cheaply as possible. If you are not
sure by what I mean and think you might have the part, please feel free to email
me with any questions.
>
> Thanks for reading down this
far.
>
> Ron
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:46:13
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Questions about travel in Germany
Hi,
Sorry for
the off topic post. I know that some list members live in Germany
and
I was wondering if I could get a little info/help in planning a trip. A
friend and I will be staying in Erlanger, and I would love to check out some
of the interesting places and do the typical site seeing, can anyone offer
any advise on what to do?
Thank you,
Michael D.
Crose
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:59:02
-0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 rear noise.
>I still don't know if the noise is wheel
noise,
>transfer case or drive shaft related. Do any of you 4WDers
have
>experience with the alignment or noise from the drive system that I
can
>use as a starting point to solve this problem? The noise is a dull
roar
>that can be heard when slowing down and comming to a stop. It
does not
>change with braking.
Pladnier-
I also have what sounds
like a bearing noise. Trying to get rid of it has
resulted in two
transaxel changes, and three transfer cases. The noise
is still with
me. As you said, you can hear it any time the car is in
motion,
but
stops exactly when the wheel stops rotating. Thus by the process
of
elimination, I believe that one of the driveshaft support bearings
is
producing the noise. It could be the rear diff. but I doubt
it. It
doesen't
sound like it's coming from that direction.
When I get a chance, I'm
gonna "stethoscope" the drive shaft supports.
If I find the problem
I'll post a note about
it.
Regards,
ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 06:17:21
-0300
From: "Jack Purcell" <
omegasac@eircom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: ignition problems
Mitsub GTO 3000 1990
Engine is turning over
but wont start.Aside from plugs, what could be
causing
this?
TIA
Jack.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 23:23:24
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Knock sensor question?
MSD Knock Alert:
http://www.msdignition.com/1protool.htm#anchor168229I've
got the sensor installed on my block already but haven't installed the
box
yet. I need to rewire power and ground to all my acessories and I'm
waiting
for that to do this and my Alcohol Injection.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.17@116.392 GMC Typhoon
13.96@96.4- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock sensor
question?
> > Is there a gauge, sensor or indicator light that
I should install to
show
> I
> > am getting
knock?
>
> No, otherwise there would not be such a debate going on.
On the 1st gen
cars
> we can log the knock with the TMO Datalogger or
the Pocket LOGGER. On all
> other cars, we do not have any chance than
installing a seperate device.
The
> MSD knock sensor is a microphone
that can be installed in a tread into the
> block. A box then shows the
amount of vibration with a bar-graph. It would
> show a constant bar if no
knock and spikes and wavey behavior if there is
> knock. But it doesn't
tell you the exact amount of knock.
>
> Remember, each engine with
its mods is totally different. Just ask Mikael
> about his latest
experience or two of my customers that are having knock
at
> only 0.6
bars of boost. Then increasing boost would cause a bang if the
> problem
is not resolved.
>
> The sources provided on Jeff's pages are a MUST
read for all of us who
like
> to increase boost for more power. The
water injection is one solution to
> fight against it and the bigger
intercooler and bigger turbos another. But
> then we don't know how good
the filling of the combustion chamber is and
> there are possible lean
spots at the piston edges ! Therefore, just
> installing parts and then
running a particular boost for a longer period
is
> not
safe.
>
> The MSD knock sensor can be installed in place of the rear
water-bolt. But
> it will be hard to read unless we have comparison data
to the datalogger.
I
> currently do not have any as my car is still not
running.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 04:41:39
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Knock sensor question?
Joe,
Good point. I will try
to knock manually on the engine with something in
order to see the response
on the voltmeter. I wasn't too fond of putting
bad gas in the car
anyway.
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
SNIP
-
-----------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:17:35
EST
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Knock sensor question?
If you just want to simulate
knock in your engine, Ill give you the test
that, to the best of my
knowledge, is used by every tech for evey
manufacturer out there. Just
knock the engine.
- ------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:35:46
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ignition problems
> Mitsub GTO 3000 1990
> Engine is
turning over but wont start.Aside from plugs, what could be
> causing
this?
A huge number of things can cause it to not start, but they all
boil down to
two things:
No Fuel
or
No
Spark
Check all the fusible links under the hood, as well as all the
fuses in the
interior to start. Where to go from there if you don't
find the problem
depends on your mechanical and troubleshooting
ability.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:07:37
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Knock sensor question?
Roger,
You mentioned the MSD knock
sensor. Is that the same thing as the MSD DIS-4
ignition sistem
installed in your car, or is that a separate component? How
much is
this MSD knock sensor? How much trouble did you have installing it?
How
reliable is its data? My assumption is that it needs to be tuned with
a
TMO datalogger (if I'm correnct, that rules out 94+ cars).
There was
an intresting article on Jeff Lucius page entitled "Knock Sensor
Sounds"
(direct link:
http://home.netcom.com/~bsundahl/knock/sound/KnockSounds.htm
). It talks
about taping into the wire somwhere between the piezo
knock
sensor/microphone and the ECU and recording the signal on a tape
reccorder.
Then, with the aid of sound software (SPECTROGRAM) you can
transfer the file
to a computer and analize the file and look for
knock. This probably needs
to be callibrated with a TMO also on a 1st
gen car, and then it can probably
be used on 94+ TT/VR4's.
Read the
above article please. This solution almost looks to easy too.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
SNIP
-
-------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 17:19:06
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Knock sensor question?
The MSD knock sensor works the very
same way and it uses an analog circuit
to finally present the amount of knock
on a 10 LED bar graph.
When using a voltmeter or build one of your own,
it is risky as the
impedance of the measurment circuit has an influence to
the knock circuit in
the ECU. People who already tried to do this fried the
ECU part or the knock
sensor itselfs.
The idea of hooking up the
voltmeter is not new but at the end is not that
simple. But it would be
interesting to see if we can find a significant
change in the voltage when
real knock appears. For this, a logging device
that records the voltage, rpm
and time is necessary when doing the
comparison to the datalogger. This is
not easy to do but also not
impossible. My sensor logger is able to do this
but the voltage sensing
device doesn't read in this small millivolt region.
Then the two data must
be synchronised to get the technically correct
comparison.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch-
-------------------------------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:15:34
EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: ignition problems
<< > Mitsub GTO 3000 1990
>
Engine is turning over but wont start.Aside from plugs, what could be
>
causing this?
A possiblity (in light of your cars age) is the capicitors
in your ECU may have leaked or exploded. This is fairly common in early
90's DSM cars (and Geo Trackers/Suzuki Sidekicks-which have a Mits labled ECU)
and I have heard or our cars getting that too. The ECUs run a couple of hundred
dollars, the capacitors are usually fifty or so cents each (you need two or
three). If that turns out to be the problem, post, and I'll try and point you to
a possible repair method.
Ron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:33:47
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 rear noise.
Hub/bearings are a lot cheaper to replace
than transaxles and transfer
cases. The usual ways to detect bad wheel
bearings, like excessive free
play or excessive runout, don't seem to be very
sensitive to detecting noisy
bearings in our cars. How many miles on
the car? I really feel like the
bearings only last about 90-100K
miles.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul T.
Golley [
SMTP:ptgolley@hiwaay.net]
>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 10:59 PM
> To:
pladnier@mediaone.net;
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 rear noise.
>
>
>
> >I
still don't know if the noise is wheel noise,
> >transfer case or drive
shaft related. Do any of you 4WDers have
> >experience with the
alignment or noise from the drive system that I can
> >use as a
starting point to solve this problem? The noise is a dull roar
> >that
can be heard when slowing down and comming to a stop. It does not
>
>change with braking.
> Pladnier-
> I also have what sounds like
a bearing noise. Trying to get rid of it has
> resulted in two
transaxel changes, and three transfer cases. The noise
> is still
with me. As you said, you can hear it any time the car is in
>
motion,
> but stops exactly when the wheel stops rotating. Thus by
the process
> of elimination, I believe that one of the driveshaft support
bearings is
> producing the noise. It could be the rear diff. but I
doubt it. It
> doesen't
> sound like it's coming from that
direction. When I get a chance, I'm
> gonna "stethoscope" the drive
shaft supports. If I find the problem
> I'll post a note about
it.
> Regards,
> ptg
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:15:50
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
>You mentioned the MSD knock
sensor. Is that the same thing as the MSD DIS-4
>ignition sistem
installed in your car, or is that a separate component?
No, it is totally
different. Check it out at
http://www.msdignition.com/1protool.htm#anchor168229
part Engine Knock
Alert - PN 8964
>How much is this MSD knock
sensor?
The last time I saw it it was $149
>How much trouble
did you have installing it?
Zero ... but the heads were out. If you are
able to reach the rear water
jacket bolt then your fine.
>How
reliable is its data? My assumption is that it needs to be tuned with
a
>TMO datalogger (if I'm correnct, that rules out 94+ cars).
This
is correct. But with the time we will learn how to use it.
>about
taping into the wire somwhere between the piezo knock
>sensor/microphone
and the ECU and recording the signal on a tape reccorder.
Or directly
into the mic entry of the notebook. This is an alternative for
sure and the
MSD is nothign else than such a microphone amplifier with some
filters in
it.
>Then, with the aid of sound software (SPECTROGRAM) you can
transfer the file
>to a computer and analize the file and look for
knock.
Yes, this is true and Bill already did this.
>to be
callibrated with a TMO also on a 1st gen car, and then it can probably
>be
used on 94+ TT/VR4's.
And then ???
>Read the above article
please. This solution almost looks to easy too.
I know the article
but then it is not possible to see knock easily as well
it is still not
clear what are the correct signs! Also we need a tool that
is able to read
the correct knock signs easily and reliable. The MSD knock
sensor is an
additional tool and doesn't hook into the stock sensor line.
If somebody
has any schematics of the ECU around I'd be happy to get it
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:17:37
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Fwd: Re: Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
>>You mentioned the MSD
knock sensor. Is that the same thing as the MSD DIS-4
>>ignition
sistem installed in your car, or is that a separate
component?
>
>No, it is totally different. Check it out at
>
http://www.msdignition.com/1protool.htm#anchor168229
part Engine Knock
>Alert - PN 8964
>
>>How much is this
MSD knock sensor?
>
>The last time I saw it it was
$149
>
>>How much trouble did you have installing
it?
>
>Zero ... but the heads were out. If you are able to reach the
rear water
>jacket bolt then your fine.
>
>>How reliable
is its data? My assumption is that it needs to be tuned with
a
>>TMO datalogger (if I'm correnct, that rules out 94+
cars).
>
>This is correct. But with the time we will learn how to
use it.
>
>>about taping into the wire somwhere between the piezo
knock
>>sensor/microphone and the ECU and recording the signal on a
tape reccorder.
>
>Or directly into the mic entry of the notebook.
This is an alternative for
>sure and the MSD is nothign else than such a
microphone amplifier with
>some filters in it.
>
>>Then,
with the aid of sound software (SPECTROGRAM) you can transfer the
file
>>to a computer and analize the file and look for
knock.
>
>Yes, this is true and Bill already did
this.
>
>>to be callibrated with a TMO also on a 1st gen car, and
then it can probably
>>be used on 94+ TT/VR4's.
>
>And then
???
>
>>Read the above article please. This solution almost
looks to easy too.
>
>I know the article but then it is not possible
to see knock easily as well
>it is still not clear what are the correct
signs! Also we need a tool that
>is able to read the correct knock signs
easily and reliable. The MSD knock
>sensor is an additional tool and
doesn't hook into the stock sensor line.
>
>If somebody has any
schematics of the ECU around I'd be happy to get it
;-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:16:40
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need 6-speed tranfer - broken ok!
> I am in need of a
transfer case for a AWD 2nd/3rd generation 3/S. I
> don't care if it is
broken (not working internally is ok, it can't have
> a cracked case!) or
if you really want to sell the tranny with it!
Here are the usual
sources:
Kormex Transmissions, Ontario CA, 800-429-5464,
http://www.lormextrans.comMD Auto, San
Diego CA, 619-390-0450
They both sell rebuilt transfer cases for less
than $850, and they both carry an
assortment of parts
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:26:40
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ignition problems
> Mitsub GTO 3000 1990
> Engine is
turning over but wont start.Aside from plugs, what could be
> causing
this?
Other possibilities...
My '91 VR4 started acting up
around November. Died while driving. Wouldn't
start. I
thought it was the ECU, but upon inspection, the capacitors looked
and
smelled fine. Finally, I took apart my aftermarket alarm and
cleaned the relay
contacts with TV Tuner Cleaner (from Radio Shack). I
also rapped on another
loose relay by the alarm, and I rapped on my HKS Turbo
Timer. The car is a
daily driver and has been running fine ever since
(the ECU caps I bought are
still in the glove box).
- --
If you lived
in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:18:52
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Misubishi CAPS program, VIN numbers, production numbers
I'm looking to do
my 60K service and downloaded the Mitsu CAPS program
to help with part
numbers.
Was surprised to find that CAPS accepts my Stealth VIN and was
able
to tell me option codes, color codes, etc. Are the options
embedded
in the VIN or is there a database I asked myself...
Turns out
the CAPS program includes a huge database of what appears
to be all Mitsu and
partner (Chrysler only ?) VINs. Don't know how
far back these go, but all
recent Mitsu vehicles seem to be in there.
These are in the
C:\PASEN\SHARYO.DAT and C:\PASEN\SHARYO.IDX files,
114 Meg and 69 Meg
respectively. The VINs are in the .IDX file.
So, I think I've found a way
to determine how many of each car type
for given years were produced. Don't
know yet if these are worldwide
production numbers or North American or US
only. Was the Stealth
ever sold anywhere but US and Canada ?
It may
even be possible, with some programming effort, to determine
how many cars of
a given color or with certain option packages were built.
I wonder if it
would be possible to confirm the much rumored automatic
tranny VR-4s and
other unusual models?
I'm aware of the numbers at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/3s-production.htmland
many of these numbers seem to match, at least roughly.
Would it be an
"invasion of privacy" to list VINs of special cars ?
Carfax's don't
list
home addresses or any such thing do they ?
When I have time, I'll
find a way or write a small program to get better
numbers,
but my current
"low-tech" counting method produced the following
rough
estimates:
Would appreciate any info about these numbers or the
"?" question marks anyone
can provide. Please email directly to
mreid@magma.ca, unless it's of general
list
interest.
Some items of interest:
VIN codes changed in 1993,
although the style and options changed
a good bit in 1994.
There is a
grand total of 1 SL Spyder using a VIN of JA3AM65J?SY, rather
than the normal
JA3AV65J?SY, the VIN is JA3AM65J3SY800002. This looks like an
"experimental"
serial number 8000002.
I can't find any 1995 Stealth TT's in the
VINs.
All Spyders:
1629
95 Spyders:
914
96 Spyders:
715
SL Spyders:
746
VR-4 Spyders: 883
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
VIN Information Table (eg. JB3XD44B1NY000001):
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
Digit Description Possible
Value(s)
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
1
Country J -
Japan
2
Make A -
Mitsubishi
B - Dodge
3 Vehicle
Type 3 - Passenger
Car
4
Others X - 91-92 Driver
Air Bag, Passenger Manual
Seatbelt
B - 93 Driver Air Bag, Passenger Manual
Seatbelt
A - 94-96 Driver and Passenger Air
Bag
5
Line D - 91-92
FWD
Hatchback
E - 91-92 AWD
Hatchback
M - 93-96 FWD
Hatchback
N - 93-96 AWD
Hatchback
V - 95-96 FWD Convertible
W - 95-96 AWD Convertible
6 Price
Class 4 -
High
5 - 91-93 Premium. 94 Sports
?
6 - 91-93 Special, 94 Premium
?
7 -
Ultimate
8 - 95-96 "New" Stealth RT or 95-99 "New" 3000GT
SL
7
Body 4 - 3
Door
Hatchback
5 - Convertible
8
Engine B - 91-92 3.0
litres (181.4 cu. in.)
(DOHC-MPI)
C - 91-92 3.0 litres (181.4 cu. in.)
(DOHC-MPI-Turbo)
S - 91-92 3.0 litres (181.4 cu. in.)
(SOHC-MPI)
J - 93-99 3.0 litres (181.4 cu. in.) (DOHC MFI)
K - 93-99 3.0 litres (181.4 cu. in.) (DOHC MFI
Turbo)
H - 93-99 3.0 litres (181.4 cu. in.) (SOHC
MFI)
9 Check
Digit
0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,X.
10 Model
Year M -
1991
N -
1992
P -
1993
R -
1994
S -
1995
T -
1996
V -
1997
W -
1998
X - 1999
11
Plant Y - Nagoya
Plant
12-17 Serial Number 000001-999999
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
Dodge Stealth:
1991:
JB3XD44S?MY
~4,600
SOHC Dodge Stealth Base
JB3XD54B?MY
~5,800
DOHC Dodge Stealth ES
JB3XD64B?MY
~4,000
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
JB3XE74C?MY
~3,050
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
Turbo
(See JB3XE74C0MY000053, built
90/04)
1992:
JB3XD44S?NY
~4,800
SOHC Dodge Stealth Base
JB3XD54B?NY
~5,200
DOHC Dodge Stealth ES
JB3XD64B?NY
~5,200
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
JB3XE74C?NY
~4,400
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
Turbo
1993:
JB3BM44H?PY
~6,300
SOHC Dodge Stealth Base (?
None
sold in Canada ?)
JB3BM54J?PY
~5,280
DOHC Dodge Stealth ES
JB3BM64J?PY
~2,340
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
JB3BN74K?PY
~1,300
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
Turbo
(See JB3BN74K0PY000933, built
92/06)
1994:
JB3AM44H?RY
~4,400
SOHC Dodge Stealth Base (?
None
sold in Canada ?)
JB3AM54J?RY
~2,480
DOHC Dodge Stealth
ES (? None
sold in Canada
?) ??
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ-Specs1.htm
Shows no
ES for 94 ??, Same with
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ-3Sprices.htmJB3AM64J?RY
~690
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
JB3AN74K?RY
~930
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
Turbo
1995:
JB3AM44H?SY
~2,900
SOHC Dodge Stealth Base (?
None
sold in Canada ?)
JB3AM84J?SY
1,431
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T ??
Why
8 == Unknown "Price Class" ?? New R/T type
?
JB3AN74K?SY
0??!!
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo ??
Why
no 1995 R/T Turbo's ??
1996:
JB3AM44H?TY
187
SOHC Dodge Stealth Base (?
None
sold in Canada ?)
JB3AM84J?TY
116
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T ??
Why
8 == Unknown "Price Class" ?? New R/T type
?
JB3AN74K?TY
58
DOHC Dodge Stealth R/T
Turbo
(See JB3AN74K7TY005973, built 96/03)
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
Mitsubishi
3000GT:
1991:
JA3XD54B?MY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT Base
See
JA3XD54B6MY000036
(90/04/1)
JA3XD64B?MY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
See
JA3XD64BXMY000014
(90/04/1)
JA3XE74C?MY 3686
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
See
JA3XE74C6MY000040
(90/04/1)
1992:
JA3XD54B?NY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
Base
JA3XD64B?NY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
See
JA3XD64B0NY000010
(91/06/1)
JA3XE74C?NY 4996
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
See
JA3XE74C8NY000008
(91/06/1)
1993:
JA3BM54J?PY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
Base
JA3BM64J?PY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
SL
JA3BN74K?PY 2574
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4
1994:
JA3AM54J?RY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
Base
JA3AM64J?RY
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
SL
JA3AN74K?RY 1646
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4
1995:
JA3AM54J?SY 4331
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT Base (New
SL?)
JA3AM65J?SY
1 DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL Spyder under SL
(93-96
FWD Hatchback) "Line" code (only JA3AM65J3SY800002
94/05/1)
JA3AM84J?SY 9151
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL (New
Base?)
JA3AN74K?SY 1323
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4
JA3AV65J?SY 378
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
Spyder
JA3AW75K?SY 535
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
Spyder
1996:
JA3AM54J?TY
886 DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT Base (New
SL?)
JA3AM84J?TY 3218
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL (New
Base?)
JA3AN74K?TY 316
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4
JA3AV65J?TY 367
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
Spyder
JA3AW75K?TY 348
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
Spyder
1997:
JA3AM44H?VY
4098 SOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SOHC
Base
JA3AM84J?VY 1297
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
(New?)
JA3AN74K?VY 513
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4
1998:
JA3AM44H?WY 2852
SOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SOHC
Base
JA3AM84J?WY 1628
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
(New?)
JA3AN74K?WY 233
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4
1999:
JA3AM44H?XY 1955
SOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SOHC
Base
JA3AM84J?XY 1054
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
(New?)
JA3AN74K?XY 290
DOHC Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
Mike Reid
94 Black Stealth R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:46:37
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question? Another Monitor!
I stumbled
across this the other day and may be of some interest to those
"knock"
conscious folks.
http://www.safeguard.bizland.com/It
is a knock sensor(monitor) that can act much like our ECU (when engine
knock
is occuring) by retarding timing and reducing boost....
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>>
>>You mentioned the MSD knock
sensor.
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:48:22
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: 60K
Service - Camshaft & Crankshaft Seals ? - Crankshaft Damper Pulley ? - Oil
Pump ?
I'm about to order my 60K service parts for the timing belt
portion only.
The spark plugs and other things can wait for
now.
Biggest problem I've had is making sure the part numbers are proper
for
my car - 94 Stealth R/T TT w/ AWD, ECS. There are a few different
lists
of parts, but they mostly apply to the list writers car, and not all
3S's.
I feel myself volunteering to create a Comprehensive Definitive
60K
(and general high mileage) parts list given that it appears I've done
most
of the work for this already. Some of these parts only apply to
certain
year and month ranges, so it's rather a pain...
There are
various recommendations for what to replace, and a lot of it
is opinion. As
far as the timing belt and related items, there appears
to be only 1 part
officially 100% required for 91-99 DOHC and Turbos:
"Valve Timing Belt"
MD193874.
The parts below however, seem to be recommended and make sense
to me.
If any of these parts break, your engine could be trashed. so for
the
relatively low prices, I'd replace them.
These parts seem to be
universal for the DOHC and Turbo from 91-99
except for the Power Steering
Belt and the A/C Belt also known as an
Accessory, Drive, Alternator, or
Serpentine belt. (Price was obtained
online at Rockville, Tallahassee and
West Broad. Anyone know why Rockville
would quote me 40-50% higher prices by
email ? BTW, at least they
responded.)
Part
Mitsu Part # Quan. Price
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Valve
Timing
Belt
MD193874
1
97/103/110
Timing(Belt)[Tensioner]Adjuster
MD319040
1 62/66/93
Timing (Belt) Tensioner
Pulley MD140071
1 22/23/25
(Timing Belt) Idler
Pulley
MD319022
1 20/22/23
Waterpump
Kit
MD972005
1 80/85/91
Thermostat
Kit
MD174234
1 16/19/19
Power Steering
Belt
MD172376
1 13/13/?
A/C
Belt
MB879764
1 22/23/? This
one
looks more appropriate. (aka MD813600)
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyone
see any errors ? Anyone know for sure which A/C Belt or Alternator
Belt (not
both ?) I need for a 94 Stealth TT ? The CAPS program says
I want MB879764,
but the Rockville person and some of the 60K lists claim
I need MD187463
which only seems to apply to DOHCs/Turbos made from
90/04 - 93/05. My TT was
made 94/02. CAPS seems to claim that MD813600
is good for 90/04 - 91/01 and
that MB879764 (which supercedes MD813600?)
is good for 91/02 -
99/99.
Some people have also recommended changing Camshaft and
Crankshaft seals,
as well as Crankshaft Damper Pulley (Harmonic Balancer?),
and possibly
the engine oil pump. Is this just paranoia or should these be
replaced
if problems are seen or unconditionally ?
Please share your
opinions; I don't want anyone to have to go in there
once my timing belt is
changed, until at least the next 60K service.
Thanks,
Mike.
94
Black Stealth TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:11:13
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Re:
Team3S: RE: Knock sensor question?
Just as an FYI for those that are
thinking of tying anything into the stock
knock sensor, don't. I
attempted, and actually succeeded at creating a
somewhat crude monitor to
attach to the knock sensor line of my Stealth. It
used a glass breakage
sensor circuit as a basis for the electronics and I
simply added a filtering
circuit as well to it. The problem I ran into was
a mismatch in
impedance. I tried as best as I could to measure and match
the
impedance of the stock knock sensor, but my circuit must not have been
close
enough. Everything seemed to work well for about 4-6 weeks. It
gave
very predictable results while Curt Gendron and I were running
water
injection tests. After time though my car started behaving a tad
strange.
I removed all my gadgetry and took it in to the dealer for some
"warranty
work". :-) What they found was a knock sensor that
wouldn't respond any
more. $80 sensor, $350 in labor, thank god for the
warranty. Now, looking
at the voltage alone isn't going to do anything
to it, but like Roger said,
it really won't tell you anything either.
Like he said it is just a
microphone. Imagine hooking just a DVM up to
your amplifier's speaker
outputs, and then trying to determine what artist
was playing on the radio
by looking at the voltage. It's about that
tricky. :-) Well, almost. :-)
What I have done now is monitor the
boost control solenoid. If you learn
how this behaves you can determine
when excessive knock is present. The DSM
guys use this a lot. You
don't find out as quickly as with something like
the MSD, but it's better
than nothing.
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:33:22
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Misubishi CAPS program, VIN numbers, production numbe rs
>
I can't find any 1995 Stealth TT's in the VINs.
>
> All Spyders: 1629
>
> 95 Spyders:
914
> 96 Spyders:
715
>
> SL Spyders:
746
> VR-4 Spyders: 883
Hmm,
the production numbers I got from Mitsubishi when I asked were "1250
Spyders
in total, 10% of which were VR4's". I wonder if there's a way
to
confirm these numbers?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:37:46
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Spyder
production numbers
There seem to be some wildly varying estimates and
anecdotes
about Spyder production numbers. I don't know yet if the
VIN
database in the CAPS program on the Team3S website includes
worlwide
production or Canada/US only. Perhaps someone could
email me some Japanese or
European or other VINs to check.
I think the VIN database gives
production numbers, not
sales or US only sales. Some people may be
quoting
sales numbers.
At 01:33 PM 2/12/2001 -0600, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
>> I can't find any 1995 Stealth TT's in the VINs.
>>
>> All Spyders: 1629
>>
>> 95 Spyders:
914
>> 96 Spyders:
715
>>
>> SL
Spyders: 746
>> VR-4
Spyders: 883
>
>Hmm, the production numbers I got from Mitsubishi
when I asked were "1250
>Spyders in total, 10% of which were VR4's".
I wonder if there's a way to
>confirm these
numbers?
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
It makes sense
to me that market demand should dictate that much more
than 10% of Spyders
would be VR-4. When you're spending that much more
for the "Spyder option",
you might as well spend the extra money on
a VR-4 model.
Here are
some estimates and anecdotes I've seen in the 3Si archives.
Sorry if I'm
unable to give credits to the people who wrote them.
(1) and (2) seem to
be reasonably close to my numbers. (2) is almost
bang on for 95 (perhaps 26
95 Spyders were destroyed or were given
to company execs etc.), and the low
146 number for 96 could be a sales
figure... many didn't sell until
97.
1) I was told that there were about 2000 spyders made in 95 and
96.
2) ...there was a production run of 888 in 1995, ... and an
additional
146 in 1996, for a total of 1,034.
3) The original plan was
for 1800 each year, but they only produced
about 1500 in 95 and 1000 or less
in 96.
4) From what I understand there were around 1000 SL Spyders made
and
about 120 VR-4 Spyders.
5) I was told by a "archivist" at
Mitsubishi that 520 VR-4 spyders
were made in 1995, and 96 were made in
1996.
6) The only number I've heard for Spyder production is 188.
Total.
SL and VR-4. More were VR-4, that I know.
Mike.
94
Black Stealth R/T TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#405
*********************