team3s
Friday, February 9
2001 Volume 01
: Number
402
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Feb 2001 12:42:46 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>It could be overfilled
with fluid. All tranny's are vented to the outside,
>that's why SCCA
requires you to attach a gizmo to sop up all that stuff so
>it don't get
on the track!
>
If any one has a "gizmo" to sop up the stuff, please
let me know how to
make one.\
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:01:35
-0500
From: "Judson Smith" <
jsmith@fmbs.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Spoiler Retrofit
Team, I'd like to pose a question...I am a new 3K owner
(95 base) and hear a
lot about 1st and 2nd generation from the list... What
is the difference?
What is mine, 1st or 2nd
generation?
Advantages/disadvantages to both?
Thanks, Jud
Gorgeous
Caracass Red 1995 3000GT (corners like it's on rails)
no mods - yet
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Maupin, Justin <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 08, 2001 12:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Spoiler
Retrofit
> Is it possible to retrofit a GT Spoiler onto a
Stealth... I always liked
the
> 1st gen. GT spoilers...
>
>
Justin Maupin
> 92 TT
> NW Chapter
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 12:14:53
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spoiler Retrofit
+> Team, I'd like to pose a question...I
am a new 3K owner (95 base) and hear a
+> lot about 1st and 2nd generation
from the list... What is the difference?
+> What is mine, 1st or 2nd
generation?
+> Advantages/disadvantages to both?
+>
+>
Thanks, Jud
+> Gorgeous Caracass Red 1995 3000GT (corners like it's on
rails)
+> no mods - yet
+>
yours is a second
generation.
1st gen : 91-93
2nd gen : 94-99
regardless
of level (base, RT/SL, TT/VR4)
some people refer to 99s as a 3rd gen, but
it's only minor cosmetic
differences..
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black
3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 11:16:19
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
> I need to replace the Ball
Joints in the Front Axle.
> The Mitsu. dealer told me I have to replace
the whole "plate" because it is
> a one piece part.
> Question: If
there is any replacement for these Ball Joints?
I'm not sure if anyone
has ever found aftermarket ball joints that work.
Typically, you have to
replace the whole front A-arm. The part costs about $211
from one of
the lists' discount dealers. Labor should be about an hour or so
per
side, plus you will need a wheel alignment. If one side is bad, it
will
probably be wise to replace both at the same time.
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 13:04:01
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
I have a RH Control arm for
sale...$100+shp
Wayne
See my part-out project @
http://pages.prodigy.net/whietalaAt
12:16 PM 2/8/01 , Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > I need to replace the
Ball Joints in the Front Axle.
> > The Mitsu. dealer told me I have to
replace the whole "plate" because it is
> > a one piece part.
>
> Question: If there is any replacement for these Ball
Joints?
>
>I'm not sure if anyone has ever found aftermarket ball
joints that work.
>Typically, you have to replace the whole front
A-arm. The part costs
>about $211
>from one of the lists'
discount dealers. Labor should be about an hour or so
>per side,
plus you will need a wheel alignment. If one side is bad, it
will
>probably be wise to replace both at the same
time.
>
>Good luck,
>Ken
>--
>If you lived in your
car, you'd be home by now.
>
>Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
>General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego,
CA
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:07:50
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Aftermarket wheels and tires and their durability
Does anyone
have any technical expertise on the Konig Flight 18x8 or 18x8.5
rims and
whether or not they are durable and dependable for our heavy cars?
It's
either these or the stock 1995-1996 18" Stealth chrome 5-spoke wheels.
I
might be interested in them as I like the way the Konig look but I don't
know
anyone with them for some good data on whether they work well.
Also, I'm
looking for an affordable set of tires to go on these rims too. I
do
want the directional tread pattern and good long lasting performance,
but
have seen quite a few different brands. What should I look for in a
tire?
I currently have Pirelli P-Zero (awesome but at $265 a little pricey)
and
hear the Pirelli P-7000 are good if I want to stay with Pirelli ($180 or
so
and still good performance).
I've heard the Bridgestone Pole
Position S-02 are very nice, along with Yoko
AVS Sport and Michelin Pilot
Sports. Also the Firestone Firehawk SZ50EP,
Kuhmo Estca Supra tires and
Nitto NT555's?
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/stock Mitsu 6-spoke chrome rims and Pirelli
P-Zero
Asimmetrico 245/40/18
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 16:35:26
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fluids
Why are the temperature ranges rear differential so low?
The first is above
- -10 degrees F (SAE 90, 85W-90 or 80W-90), then -30
degrees F to -10 degrees
F (SAE 80W or 80W-90) or below -30 degrees F (SAE
75W)?
I think I'm gonna stick the 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in all three
cases.
Anybody have a good reason why I shouldn't?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:29:29
-0600
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Team3S:
clutch trouble
I've been having trouble getting the vr-4 to go into gear
sometimes.
Its felt as if I was losing clutch pressure. Tonight it was doing
it
again so I put the car in first, and pressed the clutch pedal all the
way to the floor. I released the brake, and the car moved forward.
So
obviously the clutch is not disengagin completely.
So, what should I
check first? slave or master cylinder? I just bled
the clutch about 1k miles
ago (and the reservoir was full this
afternoon) so I don't think it's fluid
related.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:35:57
-0500
From: "J. Couture" <
labrat101@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Balljoint \ Control arm help request
Hi,
I need to
replace both lower balljoints on my 92 Dodge Stealth rt\tt. I
see some
of you mention they can be had for around $210. Can anyone tell
me
specifically where or who to call? My local Dodge dealer quotes me
$442 per
side, no labor. I don't think that even includes a goodnight kiss or
a cab
ride home either... Local Mitsu dealer quotes $311 but needs to
verify
manufacture date on my car to ensure proper fit. I would really
appreciate
any help in obtaining a better
deal.
Thanks
jsee
92 stealth tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 22:27:52
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New Open Track Forum
For anyone who is interested in learning
more about driver schools and open
track events lists, try:
http://www.trackguys.com/scripts/ubb/Ultimate.cgiIt's
brand new, so we 3000GT/VR4 guys could dominate the conversations
before the
M3 dudes find it.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 09:22:11
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PocketLOGGER (revised !)
Important !
I reread the
dokumentation as well as tried to find out the producer of
this
product.
I still think it is a great tool but it lacks of some features
:
1) It is not able to transfer the data to the PC. This is a MUST have
feature as the different colors help to see what is really going on. Of
course on the page we are told that this feature will be available soon
(what is soon... next year ?) and we also don't know on what additional
cost.
2) No cursor. It is great that one can point at any point and get
the
results but a cursor line is missing.
3) No timeline
4) no
scale at the y-axis
5) no playback function
6) not fully
compatible with 3000GT / Stealths !!!!! (just the same like
the TMO
Datalogger)
Nobody can tell who the producer is nor would one stay up and
say he's the
one who did it. This leads to the assumption that the TMO
Datalogger has
beed hacked and ported to the Palm OS and it is tried to hide
the people
behind it. Why ? It is really interesting how CLOSE to the TMO
Datalaogger
the features as well as the look and feel are. Well not our
problem but the
one from Todd Day.
Finally, we don't know who's
behind it and therefore I wait until I buy it.
Especially I wait until I'm
getting a date comitted when the features and
compatibility issues to the
3000GT are solved.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 00:59 13.11.2000
-0600, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>Okay, here's the deal. I'm stuck with
a '95 car with incompatable OBD with
>all known datalogging tools.
I'm considering constructing a general-purpose
>datalogger which could
possibly read things like:
>
>O2 sensor readings (off multiple
sensors)
>Injector pulsewidth (or percentage of open-time)
>Airflow
signal
>Manifold pressure (via an aftermarket MAP sensor)
>Timing
advance (by taking the difference between crank sensor and
coil
>trigger)
>Coolant Temperature
>RPM
>Throttle
Position Sensor
>
>
>It would contain an 8-channel A/D
converter with 12-bit precision on a range
>between 0-5V or 0-10V
DC. It would also allow up to 40 lines of
digital
>I/O.
>
>It would also have either a 2-line by
23-character LCD or 2-line by
>32-character LCD display which could
display a few of the monitored signals
>on the display in
real-time.
>
>Figure raw hardware costs around $400, but it'll be
plenty powerful. For
>instance, if you had something like a set of
multi-axis accelerometers you
>could get directional G-force datalogging
as well. You'd eat up 2 analog
>inputs with O2 sensors, 1 with boost
pressure, 1 with coolant temp, 1 with
>TPS. That would leave 3
analog inputs to hook up to whatever you want. The
>ranges of those
analog inputs could be 0 to 5v, 0 to 10v, +-5v or +-10v.
>The sample rate
could be all the way up to 100,000 samples per second,
>although I'm
thinking that a rate more like 10-20 per second would be more
>than
adequate for this application (and to keep the datasize down for
>sending
to a laptop if you are actively logging).
>
>I doubt I could make
something work that could read the knock sensor and
>produce intelligent
data from it like the TMO datalogger, but to some extent
>the knock count
can be inferred from timing advance data.
>
>I'm considering making
it from the MultiTrax-II Multitasking Controller,
>which would seem to
work well for this application since it can do some
>level of multitasking
and has all the data acquisition hardware on-board and
>a serial
interface.
>
>
http://www.controltrax.com>
>Would
anyone else be interested in something like
this?
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 08:00:54
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fluids
How cold is it where you drive? I prefer a
little heavier stuff in the rear
axle here in Texas.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Desert Fox [
SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 5:35 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Fluids
>
> Why are the temperature ranges rear
differential so low? The first is
> above
> -10 degrees F (SAE 90,
85W-90 or 80W-90), then -30 degrees F to -10
> degrees
> F (SAE 80W
or 80W-90) or below -30 degrees F (SAE 75W)?
>
> I think I'm gonna
stick the 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in all three cases.
>
> Anybody
have a good reason why I shouldn't?
>
> --
>
Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi
exit
> formerly reasonable and prudent
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 08:10:48
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch trouble
I've replaced my clutch booster and it is a
pain. Also, dealers say they
have NEVER had one go bad. I still
have my old one in a box. Check the
vacuum hoses to the booster.
sometimes they get crimped or leak. Read a
lot on this list suggesting
looking at the slave cylinder while someone
actuates the clutch, of course,
just because the slave doesn't move, doesn't
exclude the master
cylinder.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
kalla@tripoint.org [
SMTP:kalla@tripoint.org]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:29 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: clutch trouble
>
> I've been having trouble
getting the vr-4 to go into gear sometimes.
> Its felt as if I was losing
clutch pressure. Tonight it was doing it
> again so I put the car in
first, and pressed the clutch pedal all the
> way to the floor. I
released the brake, and the car moved forward.
> So obviously the clutch
is not disengagin completely.
>
> So, what should I check first?
slave or master cylinder? I just bled
> the clutch about 1k miles ago
(and the reservoir was full this
> afternoon) so I don't think it's fluid
related.
>
> Walton C. Gibson
>
kalla@tripoint.org>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 10:35:59
-0800
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: FW: Team3S:
Aftermarket wheels and tires and their durability
Darren Hi
I am
currently using; and highly recommend the Yokohama. The best ones are
the AVS
but I am using the A520 (both are z rate ultra high performance)
and
the car feels completely different. Holds better and the noise from the
tires
is less. (Previously I been using the Pzero) I got them from
TIRERACK
for $140 ea plus shipping.
http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp
Visit their site you can learn allot for
tires.
Nikos the Greek
92'
RT TT 14.2'' @ 93mph
Puerto Rico
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Schilberg, Darren
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:08
PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket wheels and tires and
their durability
Does anyone have any technical expertise on the Konig
Flight 18x8 or 18x8.5
rims and whether or not they are durable and dependable
for our heavy cars?
It's either these or the stock 1995-1996 18" Stealth
chrome 5-spoke wheels.
I might be interested in them as I like the way the
Konig look but I don't
know anyone with them for some good data on whether
they work well.
Also, I'm looking for an affordable set of tires to go on
these rims too. I
do want the directional tread pattern and good long
lasting performance, but
have seen quite a few different brands. What
should I look for in a tire?
I currently have Pirelli P-Zero (awesome but at
$265 a little pricey) and
hear the Pirelli P-7000 are good if I want to stay
with Pirelli ($180 or so
and still good performance).
I've heard the
Bridgestone Pole Position S-02 are very nice, along with Yoko
AVS Sport and
Michelin Pilot Sports. Also the Firestone Firehawk SZ50EP,
Kuhmo Estca
Supra tires and Nitto NT555's?
* Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/stock Mitsu 6-spoke chrome rims and Pirelli
P-Zero
Asimmetrico 245/40/18
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 06:35:14
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Balljoint \ Control arm help request
Try the discount dealers
I list on the Garage and Links Pages at my
web site to see if they can get
you a better deal.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "J. Couture" <
labrat101@home.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Balljoint \ Control arm
help request
Hi,
I need to replace both lower
balljoints on my 92 Dodge Stealth
rt\tt. I see some of you mention they
can be had for around $210.
Can anyone tell me specifically where or who to
call?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a
year!
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 15:36:15
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PocketLOGGER (revised !)
I got in contact with Mike Montalvo,
the guy who did the PocketLOGGER and I
answer some questions here
:
>1) It is not able to transfer the data to the PC. This is a MUST
have
>feature as the different colors help to see what is really going
on. Of
>course on the page we are told that this feature will be
available soon
>(what is soon... next year ?) and we also don't know on
what additional cost.
It is planned to export to CSV file so it can be
imported in Excel. Should
be a bsic feature.
>2) No cursor. It is
great that one can point at any point and get the
>results but a cursor
line is missing.
With the pointing feature of the Palm it is not
necessary. I played now a
lot with it and there is not really one needed
after gettign familiar with it.
>3) No timeline
The ticks i
nthe mid line are in 1 seconds. When pointing to any graph, the
time is
schoed on the top. With the limited space o na Palm this is the
best he
could do. Nothing to be changed.
>4) no scale at the y-axis
The
value is showed above each graph when pointing to it. Is negligible
when one
is familiar with it.
>5) no playback function
The features
"follow that wat the TMO Datalogger does". Therefore it has no
playback
option. I described Mike the idea and possible way it can work.
>6)
not fully compatible with 3000GT / Stealths !!!!! (just the same like
>the TMO Datalogger)
Not yet solved because Mike was not aware of
this.
>Finally, we don't know who's behind it and therefore I wait
until I buy
>it. Especially I wait until I'm getting a date comitted when
the features
>and compatibility issues to the 3000GT are
solved.
Ok, I know now who's behind of the thing and hopefully, Mike is
able to
make some changes or implement some points on the wishlist (e.g.
direct
calculated IDC !). Unfortunately, Todd Day (TMO Datalogger) never did
and
this is why we have to live with what we have. If Mike is listening and
acting, we will have a great tool i nhand soon :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 06:45:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Can someone help with Spanish translation?
Would someone on this
list like to translate a few of my web pages
from English into Spanish? I
have been communicating with these
fellows below who are trying to replace
their own clutch. My Spanish
is very poor and their English is so-so. A
Spanish version of my
clutch and trany replacement page would help them a
lot.
Any volunteers?
Please respond privately to me at
stealthman92@yahoo.com
.
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "velma" <
alkar@prtc.net>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:50 PM
Subject: velma/jesus
THANKS
!!! WE ARE TRYING TO...but isno easy.. we have to translate
your
site..and some time we can not understand...but we are
going
in.... A few question later.... Thanks a lot
again,
Jeff....
Velma/Jesús
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a
year!
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 09:48:53
-0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: crankshaft oil seal
Part of the 60K service is the crankshaft and
camshaft oil seals
replacement. The camshafts were easy. The
manual says you have to drop
the oil pan to do the crank seal. Has
anyone done this? Do I really
have to remove the pan?
I am at the
120K point, and since the water pump wasn't done at 60K, I
doubt the seals
were. The cam seals were leaking a little.
Quick question,
is there a kit for relocating the oil cooler in front of
the
radiator?
Thanks
- --
Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4 in pieces.
xDSL
Hardware Development
Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 06:57:36
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can someone help with Spanish translation?
For starters, you can
try this on-line translator - it's pretty good.
http://www.translate.ru/eng/Forrest
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 09, 2001 6:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Can someone help with
Spanish translation?
> Would someone on this list like to
translate a few of my web pages
> from English into Spanish? I have been
communicating with these
> fellows below who are trying to replace their
own clutch. My Spanish
> is very poor and their English is so-so. A
Spanish version of my
> clutch and trany replacement page would help them
a lot.
>
> Any volunteers?
> Please respond privately to me at
stealthman92@yahoo.com
.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "velma" <
alkar@prtc.net>
> To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:50 PM
> Subject:
velma/jesus
>
> THANKS !!! WE ARE TRYING TO...but isno
easy.. we have to translate
> your site..and some time we can not
understand...but we are going
> in.... A few question
later.... Thanks a lot again,
Jeff....
>
Velma/Jesús
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 07:25:42
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can someone help with Spanish translation?
Problem solved.
Thanks!!!!!!!! to Craig, Victor, Roger, and Bob for
responding so
quickly.
I used Bob's suggestions below. Pretty cool. The Spanish to
English
is worded a bit funny ("Before the descent of the transaxle..."),
but
I think this will work for Velma and Jesús. I will add a link to
that
site to my major web pages for foreign language users.
Hasta la
vista,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 09, 2001 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Can someone help with
Spanish translation?
For starters, you can try this on-line translator -
it's pretty good.
http://www.translate.ru/eng/Forrest
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 09:35:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: crankshaft oil seal
No kit is neccesary, according to the
mechanic that rebuilt my engine
('92 TT) and moved the oil cooler to in front
of the radiator
(because of the big Alamo/Cartech side mount ICs). The stock
oil
lines can be used. I am not sure exactly how it is secured. Below is
a
link to a picture.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius3/j3-2-fmoc.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Jonathan Jacobs" <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 09, 2001 7:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: crankshaft oil
seal
<snip>
Quick question, is there a kit for relocating
the oil cooler in front
of the radiator?
Thanks
- --
Marc J.
Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4 in pieces.
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919)
850-6386
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 10:17:52
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clutch trouble
> I've been having trouble getting the vr-4
to go into gear sometimes.
> Its felt as if I was losing clutch pressure.
Tonight it was doing it
> again so I put the car in first, and pressed the
clutch pedal all the
> way to the floor. I released the brake, and the car
moved forward.
> So obviously the clutch is not disengagin
completely.
>
> So, what should I check first? slave or master
cylinder? I just bled
> the clutch about 1k miles ago (and the reservoir
was full this
> afternoon) so I don't think it's fluid related.
I
have been blowing out slave cylinder seals about every 11-12 months for
the
last 3 years. I finally decided to discard the Valvoline Synthetic
Brake Fluid
I've been using during this time and I put in the Ford Heavy Duty
Dot 3. This
fluid is highly recommended as an inexpensive, but high
quality fluid for track
enthusiasts. I've had it in the clutch system
for a couple of months now (along
with a new slave seal) and it feels better
than ever.
You may want to buy a slave cylinder rebuild kit (~ $8) and
flush out your old
fluid and try the Ford Heavy Duty (~ $3.50 pint).
Also, SpeedBleeders make
bleeding slave cylinders (as well as brake calipers)
real easy.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd
be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion
Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 10:34:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clutch trouble
Ken,
Do you have the size or part
number for the slave cylinder Speed
Bleeder?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
<
kalla@tripoint.org>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 09, 2001 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch
trouble
<snip>
Also, SpeedBleeders make bleeding slave cylinders
(as well as brake
calipers) real
easy.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 10:52:03
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clutch trouble
>
> Do you have the size or part
number for the slave cylinder Speed
> Bleeder?
Here is an old
post. Note, some 92-93 rear calipers had a smaller sized bleed
screw, I
believe it is 7mm x 1.0, but they should be able to tell you
for
certain.
- -------- Original Message --------
Subject:
Speedbleeder and brake bleeding
Resent-Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 13:12:24 -0500
(CDT)
Resent-From:
stealth@starnet.netDate: Mon, 06 Apr
1998 11:06:44 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
middaugh@gak.gat.com>
Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.netOrganization:
General Atomics
To: starnet <
Stealth@starnet.net>, dragnet <
Stealth@DragNet.com>
For all of
you Do-It-Yourselfers that haven't done so, check out
http://www.speedbleeder.com for their
brake bleed screws that have a
built-in ball and spring checkvalve that allow
one-man bleeding of
brakes.
They are very high quality and work
great. Get one for your clutch
slave cylinder too, it's the same size
as the brake's. For my '91 VR4,
the part # is SB1010, the size is 10mm
x 1.0 (Michael will know the
right size for your car). 5 bleeders
should only set you back $34.50
with shipping.
I installed two
yesterday. It only took a few minutes to install one on
a rear brake
caliper, you don't have to remove the wheel. It took about
45 minutes
though to do the one on the slave cylinder since you have to
remove the
battery and windshield washer bottle. A small socket was
easier to use
than a box or open end wrech. Once installed, just open
the screw about
a half turn, attach a hose, insert the other end in a
container, then go pump
your pedal a few times. Just keep checking the
resevoir level and empty
your catch container often so you can see when
the fluid becomes clean.
These things are great!
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be
home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion
Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#402
*********************
