team3s
Wednesday, February 7
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
400
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Feb 2001 16:36:01 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Maybe not clutch?
The revving I am getting without acceleration
is happening between 4300rpm
and 4800rpm. At 4800rpm, everything seems to
lock up and there isn't any
"slippage' from there on. Could this be
symptomatic of a problem with the
viscous coupling instead of a clutch
issue?
I've talked to quite a few folks who agree that if it was the
clutch, there
wouldn't be any hook-up after that 500rpm increase.
The
car had 265/35VR18 on the rear when I got it with 245/40VR18 on the
front.
Book says that this combo is almost 3/4" difference in height. Could
this
tire size mismatch have caused trouble with my VC?
Also, I am soundless
now after messing with my horn having the battery
disconnected. Is there a
quick and dirty for removal of the factory radio so
that I can get the serial
number in order to get the radio code?
TIA.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 15:51:09
-0800 (PST)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Maybe not clutch?
clutches can come back to life briefly before
they go completely.
this happened to me. one day it slipped in 5th a
few times, then it was
fine for 6 weeks, then it came back and started
slipping in 5th, then 4th,
then 3rd. etc. maybe this could explain the
intermittent slipping and
'hooking up' you're seeing.
if this is
happening in all gear ranges with no earlier symptoms, then
perhaps its a
toasted clutch, or your trans. The 'transfer case' on the
stealth is
just a gearbox I think. The real guts of the power splitting
are inside
the trans.
On Tue, 6 Feb 2001, Desert Fox wrote:
> The
revving I am getting without acceleration is happening between 4300rpm
>
and 4800rpm. At 4800rpm, everything seems to lock up and there isn't any
>
"slippage' from there on. Could this be symptomatic of a problem with
the
> viscous coupling instead of a clutch issue?
>
> I've
talked to quite a few folks who agree that if it was the clutch, there
>
wouldn't be any hook-up after that 500rpm increase.
>
> The car had
265/35VR18 on the rear when I got it with 245/40VR18 on the
> front. Book
says that this combo is almost 3/4" difference in height. Could
> this
tire size mismatch have caused trouble with my VC?
>
> Also, I am
soundless now after messing with my horn having the battery
>
disconnected. Is there a quick and dirty for removal of the factory radio
so
> that I can get the serial number in order to get the radio
code?
>
> TIA.
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95
black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi exit
> formerly
reasonable and prudent
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 16:45:33
-0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Radio serial number location (was Maybe not clutch?)
+Also, I am
soundless now after messing with my horn having the battery
+disconnected. Is
there a quick and dirty for removal of the factory radio
+so that I can get
the serial number in order to get the radio code?
Paul, You can
carefully pry the face plate from the radio with a small
screwdriver.
The serial number is on the top left of the radio unit. Just
shine some
light in there and copy the number down. Removal of the unit
isn't
required.
Jim
91-VR4
95-VR4 Spyder
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 19:07:39
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Going both ways
I am approaching a decision point, and thought
I'd ask you folks for some
help.
The question is: Which car to modify?
Which one becomes a race car and
which one stays street?
I have a
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD that has springs, Porsche
brakes, camber
plates, Kumhos, and is lowered as far as feasible (see it at
www.bazillionbooks.com, click on race
photos). It's about to undergo a few
mods aimed at helping it deal with high
engine temps caused by the
turbochargers: intercoolers, bigger injectors, and
water injection. The
engine is otherwise stock and very reliable. I can drive
this puppy 300
miles to a track, run all weekend with the bad boys in M3s and
911s, and
drive it home. In the hands of a good driver, this car has the
potential to
be the fastest street-licensed car on the track. With the slow
ol' farmer
dude (an instructor) driving it at 7/10ths, for example, it stays
up with
cars in the instructor run group. It can go to 450 hp easily
and 650 hp
expensively. Summary: It has tremendous potential to be a very
fast open
track car in the Viper/TT Porsche class, but it will be expensive.
Probably
$10K in engine mods would get me up with the Vipers.
(Yeah, I
know what you open trackers think about 3000GTs. You folks on the
left coast
are in for a big surprise when my buddy Geoff rolls out his
screaming 2900-lb
650 hp VR4 this season. But I digress. )
I also have a 92 Eagle Talon TSi
that was going to be a rally car. I find
that SCCA wants me to put in a full
cage and other mods that make it into a
"you-can't-go-back" race car, even in
the stock production class. Talons
are very competitive in their
particular class, meaning that it could bring
me class victories if I learn
how to drive it. Mods for the Talon are easy
to come by and reasonably
inexpensive.
I can't run two race cars. The wife would kill me if the
costs don't drive
me to bankruptcy first. One has to remain a street car
while the other gets
all the mods. Which one?
One solution is to make
the Talon into a combination Pro rally car AND an
open tracker. If I gotta
put a full roll cage in it, I might as well go all
the way. Seems to me
that all I gotta do is swap the struts twice a year
to raise or lower the car
and convert from one series to another, right?
Has anyone ever done such a
thing? Do you know ANYBODY who runs the same
car in open track and rallying?
If this was possible, I could convert the Talon to a production rally
car
(basically stock, but with roll cage and tons of SCCA safety
equipment),
run it for a year in production class, then add engine mods to
the car and
run the next season in Open class. Talons will go up to 450 hp
and they
weigh about 2900 lb. It won't beat a Group B Quattro, but I bet it
could be
a top-five overall car. It should be pretty dang fast in open track,
too.
I know some people here run AWD Talons/Eclipses in open track. Those
of you
who have modded cars: How fast are they? Can you run with instructors
in
modded M3s?
All opinions and insights are welcome.
I've
been hashing this over for a few weeks now, and am no closer to a
resolution
than when I started. That dang SCCA and their roll cage
requirement messed up
my original plans to just dabble in rallying. Looks
like it's all or nothing.
I'd like to run at least one rally this season,
probably late in the year, so
I gotta start buying stuff.
Rich
94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 TT
AWD
92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 19:34:12
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Going both ways
Sorry about the second post, but I got so many
errors from the 3S list, I
wondered if it actually got
through.
Rich
_____________
I am approaching a decision point, and
thought I'd ask you folks for some
help.
The question is: Which car to
modify? Which one becomes a race car and
which one stays street?
I
have a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD that has springs, Porsche
brakes,
camber plates, Kumhos, and is lowered as far as feasible (see it at
www.bazillionbooks.com, click on race
photos). It's about to undergo a few
mods aimed at helping it deal with high
engine temps caused by the
turbochargers: intercoolers, bigger injectors, and
water injection. The
engine is otherwise stock and very reliable. I can drive
this puppy 300
miles to a track, run all weekend with the bad boys in M3s and
911s, and
drive it home. In the hands of a good driver, this car has the
potential to
be the fastest street-licensed car on the track. With the slow
ol' farmer
dude (an instructor) driving it at 7/10ths, for example, it stays
up with
cars in the instructor run group. It can go to 450 hp easily
and 650 hp
expensively. Summary: It has tremendous potential to be a very
fast open
track car in the Viper/TT Porsche class, but it will be expensive.
Probably
$10K in engine mods would get me up with the Vipers.
(Yeah, I
know what you open trackers think about 3000GTs. You folks on the
left coast
are in for a big surprise when my buddy Geoff rolls out his
screaming 2900-lb
650 hp VR4 this season. But I digress. )
I also have a 92 Eagle Talon TSi
that was going to be a rally car. I find
that SCCA wants me to put in a full
cage and other mods that make it into a
"you-can't-go-back" race car, even in
the stock production class. Talons
are very competitive in their
particular class, meaning that it could bring
me class victories if I learn
how to drive it. Mods for the Talon are easy
to come by and reasonably
inexpensive.
I can't run two race cars. The wife would kill me if the
costs don't drive
me to bankruptcy first. One has to remain a street car
while the other gets
all the mods. Which one?
One solution is to make
the Talon into a combination Pro rally car AND an
open tracker. If I gotta
put a full roll cage in it, I might as well go all
the way. Seems to me
that all I gotta do is swap the struts twice a year
to raise or lower the car
and convert from one series to another, right?
Has anyone ever done such a
thing? Do you know ANYBODY who runs the same
car in open track and rallying?
If this was possible, I could convert the Talon to a production rally
car
(basically stock, but with roll cage and tons of SCCA safety
equipment),
run it for a year in production class, then add engine mods to
the car and
run the next season in Open class. Talons will go up to 450 hp
and they
weigh about 2900 lb. It won't beat a Group B Quattro, but I bet it
could be
a top-five overall car. It should be pretty dang fast in open track,
too.
I know some people here run AWD Talons/Eclipses in open track. Those
of you
who have modded cars: How fast are they? Can you run with instructors
in
modded M3s?
All opinions and insights are welcome.
I've
been hashing this over for a few weeks now, and am no closer to a
resolution
than when I started. That dang SCCA and their roll cage
requirement messed up
my original plans to just dabble in rallying. Looks
like it's all or nothing.
I'd like to run at least one rally this season,
probably late in the year, so
I gotta start buying stuff.
Rich
94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 TT
AWD
92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 20:45:25
-0500
From: John Raicu <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
NITTO Tires ... :)
Hello,
I just want to give you guys my 2 cents
worth on the topic of tires. I
had some Eagle Flacons of some kind for
about 15K miles, which by the
way came on the car when I bough it, which
worked fine without
complaints (for aggressive street driving). For the
past 5K miles, I
have been using the Nitto 555 tires. I am not even a
bit disappointed
with their performance: just as quiet as any other tire I
have ever
driven on (includes another stealth and a 3000GT); good road grip,
in
which the tires have never slipped in the dry; and best of all, I
have
done speeds around 100 mph while it was moderately raining while
always
feeling confident that my car was under full control. I don't
know how
some of the more expensive tires are, but I believe the Nitto 555
are
definitely the best bang for the buck.
If anybody cares to know
exactly what other tires I had used in the past
and am basing my rating on,
email me privately and I will get you your
info.
John Raicu
94
Yellow TT
lots of minor mods...
&
Mihai Raicu
95 Red
3000GT
lots of minor mods as well...
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 22:40:12
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Radio serial number location (was Maybe not clutch?)
>
Paul, You can carefully pry the face plate from the radio
> with a
small screwdriver. The serial number is on the top
> left of the
radio unit. Just shine some light in there
> and copy the number
down. Removal of the unit isn't
> required.
Just to clarify,
you want to just pry out the black plastic trim piece
around the radio, not
the actual front of the radio. ;-) If I remember
right it was
easiest to stick the screwdriver under the bottom edge of the
plastic and pry
it out from there and then work it loose.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 23:57:56
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
I have 95 VR-4 and my Apex'i
boost guage and Blitz turbo timer are telling
me that I'm peaking at 1.00 bar
of boost which I believe is about 14.5 psi.
Now my question is, is this
the correct boost pressure for a stock 95 VR-4?
I'm inclined to think that it
isn't and if not, then what is? Am I in danger
of running this high? Lastly
what could be causing my overboost?
Actually my car is mostly stock with
the exception of a K&N.
Thanks in advance.....
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 22:33:44
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
When stock, my '94 did this sometimes
too. Boost for that year is 12.5 PSI
+/- a ridiculous amount, printed
no doubt so that dumb-ass Mitsubishi
"technicians" don't actually have to
perform real mechanical diagnostic
work.
Not bitter at
all,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have
95 VR-4 and my Apex'i boost guage and Blitz turbo timer are telling
> me
that I'm peaking at 1.00 bar of boost which I believe is about
> 14.5
psi.
>
> Now my question is, is this the correct boost pressure for
a
> stock 95 VR-4?
> I'm inclined to think that it isn't and if not,
then what is? Am
> I in danger
> of running this high? Lastly what
could be causing my overboost?
>
> Actually my car is mostly stock
with the exception of a K&N.
>
> Thanks in
advance.....
>
>
> Michael Bulaon
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 21:54:33
-0800
From: Colin Johnson - Sun UK Timezone Lead Support Engineer
<Colin.Johnson@Sun.COM>
Subject:
Team3S: US/UK 3000GT diffs
Hi
I'm a Brit living in CA, I'm taking
my '93 GT-VR4 back home to the
UK in a few months.
I wondering if
anyone knows the lighting specs of the UK car; in
the UK side/parking lights
have to show white at the front. On the
US spec the side/parking lights show
amber on the front, so when
I get back to the UK I need to get these changed,
I'm just trying
to get an idea as to how much work is involved -- all the
manuals
I have are for the US spec car.
I also will need to have the
head lights changed s.t. they tend
towards the other kerbside (so as not to
blind oncoming traffic).
Will this require putting a UK head light unit in or
will I be able
to just adjust the current unit?
Last, but not least, I
also want to get the Radio adjusted s.t. it
tunes into all the FM 0.1
frequencies (i.e. UK radios tune into
FM in all 0.10 intervals where as US
radios tune into just tune
into the odd 0.10 intervals (i.e. x.10 x.30 x.50
x.70 x.90) as memory
serves.
Has anyone on the list imported from the
US to the UK?
Not sure what I'm going to do about the steering wheel
yet;-)
Thanks
Colin
93 Red 3000GT VR-4 Lic Plate COLSVR4,
no unix jokes please.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 11:02:49
+0400
From: Andrew Spargo <spargo@emirates.net.ae>
Subject:
Team3S: Blitz Dual Turbo Timer
If anyone is interested in the "English"
version of the wiring diagram and
instructions (also Operating Instructions)
for these Turbo Timers, I will
gladly send them to anyone who wants them.
Racelogic the UK main dealer for
Blitz kindly sent me the translated version
and all the information is
contained in 6 pages. The question of how to fit
it has been answered by the
list several times and I thank the members for
that, but I always had one
question, "What did the Orange and White wires do,
that meant we did not
have to connect them"? Now at least I have the
answer.
1999 VR4 (Middle East Specs)
spargo@bigfoot.com
Andy Spargo
PO
Box 45373
Abu Dhabi
United Arab Emirates
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 07:27:51
EST
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject:
Team3S: 60K parts?
Hello list members, I just have a quick question about
the parts I need for
the 60K tune-up. Below, I will list the parts I plan on
buying for the 60K
tune up and I would appreciate it if you could tell me
whether I've listed
any extra parts or if I have left off
something:
Parts: Timing Belt, AC Belt, Power Steering Belt, Thermostat,
Waterpump,
Tensioner, End Yoke Holder, and Tensioner pully socket (I changed
the plugs
and fuel filter about 10K miles ago, so I won't order
them)
By the way, I was wondering if the Thermostat is a required
part because I
don't see anything in the service manual about changing the
thermostat, but
people on the list have told me change it.
Thank
you
'94 3000GT (NA DOHC)
AA
- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 07:45:40
-0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 back home - short block question
Guys,
I got my VR4
back home yesterday (and promptly locked the one key I
have in it...) and I
also got my old short block back. From what I
have been told the car
was patched together by the last shop that had
it and their shoddy work led
to it's untimely second demise. Now I
have to decide if I want to sue
them for the repairs (but that's
neither here nor there).
The old
block looks to be in real good shape. I am going to strip it
on down
and see what can be reused for sure. My intial, untrained
diagnosis is
that it needs one connecting rod and a rod bearing. The
pistons all
look good so I doubt there is any cylinder wear. Once I
get it apart I
will know for sure. My question is, assuming the
crank is OK, would it
be wise to replace the bearings, rod, and misc.
other stuff and sell the
whole thing as a functional short block, or
would I be better off just
parting it out and skipping the work
(fun)? What would the average
value of a functional rebuilt 4 bolt
short block be? I got hammered on
the repairs and I need to recoupe
as much as I can on this.
:(
Thanks for any advice you guys may have to offer. It's good to
be
back in the world of boost again. Now all I need is a tag... and
a
boost controller. ;)
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK
sans Resonator Bottle / Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock [for now] / Green [for
now])
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 09:20:41
-0500
From: "Karl Siebert" <ksiebert@gow.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
60K parts?
> Parts: Timing Belt, AC Belt, Power Steering
Belt, Thermostat, Waterpump,
> Tensioner, End Yoke Holder, and Tensioner
pully socket (I changed the plugs
> and fuel filter about 10K miles ago,
so I won't order them)
>
>
> By the way, I was wondering if
the Thermostat is a required part because I
> don't see anything in the
service manual about changing the thermostat, but
> people on the list
have told me change it.
>
You will also need the tensioner pulley
(bearings can go), and the idler
pulley (same). I also did the fuel
filter, and pcv valve, and thermostat
(make sure you get the gasket with it)
but all of these things are not
required.
Where are you going to order
these parts from? I reccomend
Tallahassee
Mitsu!
Karl
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:10:29
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60K parts?
Does anyone know if the Mitsu Dealer has to order
the parts if they are
going to do the service?
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ 52k miles
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Siebert [mailto:ksiebert@gow.org]
Sent: Wednesday,
February 07, 2001 09:21
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 60K parts?
Where are you going to order these parts
from? I reccomend Tallahassee
Mitsu!
Karl
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:35:47
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Maybe not clutch?
I'm not sure there is such a big difference
in height between the 265R35 and
the 245R40. I thought the height would
be 2X the width of the doughnut plus
the wheel size (18"). The width of
the doughnut is the second number in %
times the tread width (first number)
in milliimeters. That only winds up
being a 0.4" difference in
height, which is like one centimeter on a total
diameter around 25" or like
less than 2%. It's hard to imagine how that
small a difference would
cause trouble.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Desert Fox [SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 5:36 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Maybe not clutch?
>
> The revving I am getting without
acceleration is happening between 4300rpm
> and 4800rpm. At 4800rpm,
everything seems to lock up and there isn't any
> "slippage' from there
on. Could this be symptomatic of a problem with the
> viscous coupling
instead of a clutch issue?
>
> I've talked to quite a few folks who
agree that if it was the clutch,
> there
> wouldn't be any hook-up
after that 500rpm increase.
>
> The car had 265/35VR18 on the rear
when I got it with 245/40VR18 on the
> front. Book says that this combo is
almost 3/4" difference in height.
> Could
> this tire size mismatch
have caused trouble with my VC?
>
> Also, I am soundless now after
messing with my horn having the battery
> disconnected. Is there a quick
and dirty for removal of the factory radio
> so
> that I can get the
serial number in order to get the radio code?
>
>
TIA.
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT
VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi exit
> formerly reasonable and
prudent
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:03:18
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
Okay, somebody else
please clarify this. (Roger - what are the
REAL
numbers?)
1. I don't recall ANY year stock VR4 producing 1
bar, which is like 1
atmosphere at sea level, which is like 14.7 psi, EXCEPT
as a spike, without
some modification (like bleeder valve, boost control
solenoid input nipple
restrictor removal, or dual solenoid electronic boost
controller). Somebody
has been playing under the hood. Michael,
did you install the boost guage,
or did it come that way?
2. If
you don't have an electronic boost controller to prevent spikes, it
seems to
me that others have said that the car is at some risk of spikes
beyond 14.7
psi if you have 14.7 psi as your normal operating point.
3. I have
one car running at 11.5 psi with a manual boost controller
(Bleeder valve)
for just that reason. I used to run at 10.5 psi until I got
my DSM BOV
installed. My other car, and my sons car operate at 14.7 (or 15
psi if you
will), because they each have electronic boost controllers that
preclude
overpressurization.
4. My recollection is that the difference in
horsepower between year '93
and '94 was strictly due to a change in the stock
boost setting, but I
recall much lower settings like 7 psi increased to like
9 psi. I don't
remember anything about "12.5 +/- a ridiculous amount",
but maybe that's
what people were reading off the notoriously inaccurate
stock boost "gauges"
(more like boost "indicators").
5. I'm not
a real fan of most Mitsubishi repair technicians, but it's
wonderful when you
find a good one. I really despise the ones that don't
follow their own
service manuals. Mitsubishi hasn't cornered the market on
dumbasses, at
least in America.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Barry E. King [SMTP:beking@home.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, February 06, 2001 11:34 PM
> To: Team 3s
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
>
> When stock, my '94
did this sometimes too. Boost for that year is 12.5
> PSI
>
+/- a ridiculous amount, printed no doubt so that dumb-ass Mitsubishi
>
"technicians" don't actually have to perform real mechanical diagnostic
>
work.
>
>
> Not bitter at all,
>
>
Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
I have 95 VR-4 and my Apex'i boost guage and Blitz turbo timer are
>
telling
> > me that I'm peaking at 1.00 bar of boost which I believe is
about
> > 14.5 psi.
> >
> > Now my question is, is
this the correct boost pressure for a
> > stock 95 VR-4?
> >
I'm inclined to think that it isn't and if not, then what is? Am
> > I
in danger
> > of running this high? Lastly what could be causing my
overboost?
> >
> > Actually my car is mostly stock with the
exception of a K&N.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.....
>
>
> >
> > Michael Bulaon
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 07:15:12
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
I am always amazed at all
the different numbers I hear for "stock
boost levels" for the different
years. ALL wastgeates on stock
TD04-9B turbos are designed to open at approx.
6.8 psi pressure. The
BC solenoid acts as a bleeder to raise the effective
boost level. The
service manuals state the following service specs for
"supercharging
pressure" (look in your Manual on CD from Vinny in the Intake
and
Exhaust section).
1st gen cars: 1991 3000GT manual p.
15-2. 8.7 psi
2nd gen
cars: 1992-1996 3000GT manual p. 15-2. 10
psi
Knowing Mitsu manuals, the pressure is probably stated at
other
levels/numbers in other manuals and that is where the confusion
comes
from. :)
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Barry E. King'" <beking@home.com>;
"Team 3s"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:03 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: What is stock boost
for a 95 VR-4?
Okay, somebody else please clarify this. (Roger
- what are the REAL
numbers?)
4. My recollection is that the
difference in horsepower between year
'93 and '94 was strictly due to a
change in the stock boost setting,
but I recall much lower settings like 7
psi increased to like 9 psi.
I don't remember anything about "12.5 +/- a
ridiculous amount", but
maybe that's what people were reading off the
notoriously inaccurate
stock boost "gauges" (more like boost
"indicators").
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:24:19
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
This ia a FAQ and will be found in
the archives, discussed numerous times.
Stock boost for '91-'93 was 9.5
PSI.
Stock boost for '94+ was 12.5 PSI.
If you have a service manual,
check the boost measurement procedure. You
will see that Mitsuibishi
considers boost levels as low as 7 PSI for ALL
model years "normal".
The factory boost testing procedure has nothing to do
with the stock gauge,
nor do the numbers listed above.
When stock, the boost on my '94 varied
depending upon who knows what exactly
from 10.5 to 13.5 psi using an SPI
boost gauge. My rant referred to an
incident where the boost started to
consistently show 7.0 PSI max even
though it had run forever at 12.5 psi
max. Turned out to be a combination
of things. Once after
retrieving it from a dealer it was boosting to 14.5
PSI regularly.
Turns out some technician had incorrectly attached the lines
to the
solenoid. I practically had to apply extortion to get them to
look
under the hood since everything was "within spec" according to their
own
test procedures. I actually found and pointed out the problem while
the
service manager and the technician stood watching over my shoulder.
They
just shrugged it off.
Following the service manuals is great for
some procedures, but ridiculous
for others. Case in point is the boost
deal.
Anecdotes aside, the afore-mentioned numbers at the top of this
message are
correct.
More below.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Okay, somebody else please clarify
this. (Roger - what are the REAL
> numbers?)
>
>
1. I don't recall ANY year stock VR4 producing 1 bar, which is like
1
> atmosphere at sea level, which is like 14.7 psi, EXCEPT as a
>
spike, without
> some modification (like bleeder valve, boost control
solenoid input nipple
> restrictor removal, or dual solenoid electronic
boost
> controller). Somebody
> has been playing under the
hood. Michael, did you install the
> boost guage,
> or did it
come that way?
Leaking or disconnected lines will cause this even if
noone has been messing
with the plumbing.
> 2. If you don't
have an electronic boost controller to prevent spikes, it
> seems to me
that others have said that the car is at some risk of spikes
> beyond 14.7
psi if you have 14.7 psi as your normal operating point.
Spikes can
happen with any sort of controller, just some are betetr than
others at
preventing them. The manual Haltech controller can in some cases
work
just as well as an electronic one. Spikes happen and are in general
not
an issue. Prolonged over-boost is by definition not a spike and is
of
concern, but that's another deal.
> 3. I have one car
running at 11.5 psi with a manual boost controller
> (Bleeder valve) for
just that reason. I used to run at 10.5 psi
> until I got
> my
DSM BOV installed. My other car, and my sons car operate at 14.7 (or 15
>
psi if you will), because they each have electronic boost controllers
that
> preclude overpressurization.
Prolonged over-pressurization
is more accurate. Spikes can occur with even
the best controllers and
can even go undetected depending upon how the boost
is being measured.
See Jack T.s suggested tuning method for the Apex'i
controller. It
works.
> 4. My recollection is that the difference in horsepower
between year '93
> and '94 was strictly due to a change in the stock boost
setting, but I
> recall much lower settings like 7 psi increased to like 9
psi. I don't
> remember anything about "12.5 +/- a ridiculous
amount", but maybe that's
> what people were reading off the notoriously
inaccurate stock
> boost "gauges" (more like boost
"indicators").
The stock boost gauge is nothing more than eye candy, as
hopefully everyone
by now knows. Unfortunately many dealership
employees seem to believe
otherwise.
The 20 HP is largely due to an
increase in boost from 9.5 to 12.5 PSI
between 1993 and 1994 models.
Read the service manual and assess the
acceptable boost prtocedure
yourself. It is enlightening.
> 5. I'm not a real fan of
most Mitsubishi repair technicians, but it's
> wonderful when you find a
good one. I really despise the ones that don't
> follow their own
service manuals.
Absolutely.
> Mitsubishi hasn't cornered the
market on dumbasses, at least in America.
Of course not. There are
good and there are bad everywhere. Phoenix has
the market cornered on
the bad ones though. I could be fair and point out
that the VR4 is a
rarity, but the bottom line is, the car is sold therefore
the technicians
need to be trained and skilled on these models to work
on
them.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:00:10
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
Remember that Roger's
"stock" European VR-4 has 13b turbos in it and the US
spec is 9b. Is
this still correct and could this change the numbers or the
+/-
differences?
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ unknown boost
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:03
To: 'Barry E. King'; Team 3s
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
Okay, somebody else
please clarify this. (Roger - what are the
REAL
numbers?)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 17:16:55
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
>2. If you don't
have an electronic boost controller to prevent spikes, it
>seems to me
that others have said that the car is at some risk of spikes
>beyond 14.7
psi if you have 14.7 psi as your normal operating point.
Well, we learned
that a piston can go bad pretty quick upon a short lean
situation in the
chamber. Any spike above the level whereas the stock fuel
system is at its
end may be dangerous. I know of cars who never hit 1 bar
but had cracked
pistons and I know of some who had no problem until 1.25
bars and said the
car is in good shape. I did as well until I saw a problem
in the intake
(oil). Also Mikael with the heavily tuned car had no problem
with the car
until he lifted the heads lately and found one piston looks
very odd at the
edge ! A stock car will not see that high spikes that will
be
dangerous.
>3. I have one car running at 11.5 psi with a manual
boost controller
>(Bleeder valve) for just that reason. I used to
run at 10.5 psi until I got
>my DSM BOV installed. My other car, and my
sons car operate at 14.7 (or 15
>psi if you will), because they each have
electronic boost controllers that
>preclude
overpressurization.
It's easy to set the bleeder to 15 psi as well, but
you may develop more
overboost due to the bad reaction of the stock
solenoid. Removing the
restrictor makes this even worser if the stock boost
solenoid valve is not
controlled differently.
>4. My
recollection is that the difference in horsepower between year '93
>and
'94 was strictly due to a change in the stock boost setting, but I
>recall
much lower settings like 7 psi increased to like 9 psi. I
don't
>remember anything about "12.5 +/- a ridiculous amount", but maybe
that's
>what people were reading off the notoriously inaccurate stock
boost "gauges"
>(more like boost "indicators").
Yes, boost got
increased and the fuel/ignition maps where changed. But it
is important to
see if boost is contignous or peak ! Jeff already reported
the correct
levels but peak levels are around 1 psi higher.
>5. I'm not a
real fan of most Mitsubishi repair technicians, but it's
>wonderful when
you find a good one. I really despise the ones that don't
>follow
their own service manuals. Mitsubishi hasn't cornered the market
on
>dumbasses, at least in America.
As mentioned by Jeff, Vineet's
CD-ROM is the must have :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
>Chuck
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Barry E. King [SMTP:beking@home.com]
> > Sent:
Tuesday, February 06, 2001 11:34 PM
> > To: Team 3s
>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for
a 95 VR-4?
> >
> > When stock, my '94 did this sometimes
too. Boost for that year is 12.5
> > PSI
> > +/- a
ridiculous amount, printed no doubt so that dumb-ass Mitsubishi
> >
"technicians" don't actually have to perform real mechanical diagnostic
>
> work.
> >
> >
> > Not bitter at all,
>
>
> > Barry
> >
> > > -----Original
Message-----
> > >
> > > I have 95 VR-4 and my Apex'i
boost guage and Blitz turbo timer are
> > telling
> > > me
that I'm peaking at 1.00 bar of boost which I believe is about
> > >
14.5 psi.
> > >
> > > Now my question is, is this the
correct boost pressure for a
> > > stock 95 VR-4?
> > >
I'm inclined to think that it isn't and if not, then what is? Am
> >
> I in danger
> > > of running this high? Lastly what could be
causing my overboost?
> > >
> > > Actually my car is
mostly stock with the exception of a K&N.
> > >
> >
> Thanks in advance.....
> > >
> > >
> >
> Michael Bulaon
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:24:14
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
I have refrained from
mentioning this to the list before, but since
Barry is citing the Team3S FAQs
and Archives as some sort of
authority, I feel compelled now to speak up. I
have seen *numerous*
errors in both the Archives (they are after all just
plain old us
"chatting") and the FAQs (and this is particularly disconcerting
to
me).
Sorry, Barry and others, I cannot and will not use any Team3S
FAQ as
a source of any definitive info and only as a suggestion of
what
might be correct. And this is sad, as the Team3S FAQ are supposed
to
be a reliable source. I am not disparaging all the FAQs, but when
some
have such obvious flaws and errors it brings them all into
suspect (well at
least in my mind). And please, nobody suggest that I
go through and check
them out. I have enough to do managing my own
web site.
And so again
from the service manuals (not that I trust them all that
much either, but it
is the official word):
1st gen cars: 1991 3000GT manual p.
15-2. 8.7 psi
2nd gen
cars: 1992-1996 3000GT manual p. 15-2. 10
psi
Hey, I'm just the messenger. :)
This does not mean an
individual "stock" car will not have boost
levels at some other value, these
are just what Mistu says they
should be. The best thing to do is of course
install a real boost
gauge and measure the boost in the plenum for your
particular car.
Now if you want to see what the TIM says about turbo
pressure control
look at these pages.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/stim3/tim_14-21.gif
http://www.3si.org/member-home/stim3/tim_14-22.gif
Jeff
Lucius, www.stealth316.com
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: "Team 3s" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:24 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: What is stock boost
for a 95 VR-4?
This ia a FAQ and will be found in the archives,
discussed numerous
times.
Stock boost for '91-'93 was 9.5
PSI.
Stock boost for '94+ was 12.5
PSI.
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:54:42
-0800
From: "Maupin, Justin" <Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Suspension and other troubles
Got my 92 TT back from the shop
yesterday... just recently purchased it and
decided there were some problems
that I wanted the dealer to have fixed ie.
TOUR/Sport lights flashed
continuously, Front in shook violently when brakes
where even touched around
60mph and above, Power Antenna not working, and CD
player not working.
Car was gone for just short of 3 weeks... Picked it up
and low and behold...
The lights (sport/tour) still flash, and all the other
problems unaddressed
as well... On the suspension problem, they swapped in a
different Shock, and
the switch that mounts on top, to no avail. The
Mechanic ordered the
ECS switch thinking that may fix it... I don't know,
anybody have any
Ideas.
The Braking problem... I discovered on my drive home that it
wasn't the
brakes that were the problem with the shaking in the front
end... Half way
home, the left front member arm broke... very
disconcerting...
Member arm is being fixed... but I am at a loss
for the ECS problem...
Thanks for listening to me
rant...
Justin
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 7 Feb 2001 17:11:27
+0000
From: martin berkley <3000gto@breathe.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TPS or Stepper motor?
Hi Guys
I mailed to the list recently
regarding a hesitation problem i am having with my GTO TT.
Basically the car
runs great until i back off the gas pedal to cruise at say, 70mph.
The car
then feels like it is hesitating or misfiring.
I have changed the plugs (NGK
platinum) new K&N FIPK, fuel filter, had the battery and plug wires checked
with no luck.
I spoke with a Mitsu mechanic who says it may be either the TPS
or the stepper motor causing the problem, so i have booked in for next Thursday
to have the MUT II hooked up for analysis.
Does anyone have any thoughts on
the symptoms and what the mechanic says?
Any feedback is
appreciated.
Regards
Martin Berkley
(UK)
___________________________________________
It's amazing what
happens when you breathe.
www.breathe.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 11:28:58
-0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
SHOOTOUT ENTRY LIST So Far!
DSM SHOOTOUT July 20-22
2001 List of Entrants So Far!
Norwalk Raceway Park, Norwalk
Ohio
Sponsor: Buschur Racing
Our Shootout is on Friday July 20;
Autocross July 21; ALL IMPORT
Shootout on July 22
If you have info missing
or needing change, email ME DIRECT
xwing@execpc.com.
You can post info here,
or (better) at http://64.39.19.113/ (the
"Track Times"
board on 3SI),
or email it to me.
? denotes not sure if coming. Info
needed:
1)Name "3SI nickname"
2)Car/color/Shop (if associated with
one)
3)City/State of origin
4)Hotel you're staying at
5)email
1
Aaron "zentelis", 94 RT/TT, Hanover PA
2 Terry Bosserman "black95rttt",
95RT/TT Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, Findlay
OH, black95rttt@hotmail.com
3 Brian
"allengineSL", 95 3000GT SL, Chicago IL
4 ?Bruce "Bruce", 95 VR4 red,
Granada Hills CA
5 Hans Ertl "Hans91GT", 91 3000GT, hertl@snip.net
6 ?Rob Flynn "akira410", 92
VR4 white + 97 VR4 white, Irvine CA
7 "igots2", 92 VR4
8 Joe Gonsowski
"JoeG", 92 RT/TT, Detroit MI, twinturbo@mediaone.net
9 Matt
Jannusch "mjannusch", 95 VR4 Spyder white, Minneapolis MN,
mjannusch@marketwatch.com
10 Jeff
"mr2turb", 95VR4, Columbus OH
11 Trent Karr "TKarr", 93 RT/TT, Wyomissing
PA
12 Jim Kielma, RT/TT, Cudahy WI, jkielma@aol.com
13 Jeff Lucius "Jeff
Lucius", 92 RT/TT red, jlucius@stealth316.com
14 ?Shawn
MacArthur "BigBadVR4", 92VR4 black,
15 "Mellon", 91RT/TT white
16 Dan
Mercier "DanM_94_VR4", 94 VR4 green 3SX Automotive Technology,
Louisvill KY,
dan@3sxperts.com
17 Shawn M. O'Connor
"soc3GT95basn20", 95 3000GT n/a red, Charlotte NC
18 "pokey293", 91 VR4,
Phoenix AZ
19 "Racer X", RT/TT, Stockbridge GA
20 Ryan "Shadowfax", 92
RT/TT
21 Darren Schilberg, 95 VR4 black, Pittsburgh, PA,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
22
Matt Schneider "Schneider80", 95 VR4 blue, Chicago IL,
matt@cbcast.com
23 Rob Schoen "rob",
Ohio, rschoen@home.com
24 Jose
Soriano "Amahoser", 91 RT/TT red, Southern CA
25 Jack Tertadian "xwing", 94
VR4 red Atomic Motorsports, Oak Creek WI,
Econolodge, xwing@execpc.com
26 ?Trevor "Trevor"
96RT/TT red
27 ?Kevin Umbreit "unclesam099", 91 RT blue, unclesam099@hotmail.com
Number
of people: 27
Number of Shops: 1 "Atomic
Motorsports", and I'm not really even a
shop :)
Number of
Stealths: 11 (some have not listed their car)
Number of 3000GTs:
14
BEEEE THEEEEERRE!!!
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 12:33:22
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
>>Well, we learned
that a piston can go bad pretty quick upon a short
>>lean situation in
the chamber. Any spike above the level whereas the
>>stock fuel system
is at its end may be dangerous.
I noticed that when I first mash on the
gas, there is a slight stumble,
very brief but noticeable. Could this be
detonation or something else
such as the spark plugs blowing out. I'm not
sure what they are gapped
at but will check this weekend. My thinking is if
they are gapped
over .3x(don't remember the exact number), then the
hesitation or
stumble is from the spark blowing out.
Agree or
disagree?
Also, when the stumble happens, I'm assuming this is when
my car
peaks/spikes to 1.0bar although I haven't really checked. Will check
soon, but just wanted to see if this was a valid
assumption.
>>I did as well until I saw a problem in the
intake (oil).
I also have oil in my intake. I noticed there was oil
right where the Y-
pipe meets the two rubber pipes. I recently had a
compression/leak down
test which came up with good numbers so I'm assuming
it's either from
my worn valve guides or the stock turbos going bad. Do you
think this
is a safe assumption, or should I look more into the possibility
that
my pistons or rings may be going.
>>Yes, boost got
increased and the fuel/ignition maps where changed.
>>But it is
important to see if boost is contignous or peak ! Jeff
>>already
reported the correct levels but peak levels are around 1 psi
>>higher.
Playback of my Apex'i Boost guage shows that boost
only briefly touches
1.0bar then quickly drops to about .5bar and usually
stays in that
area. Incidently I peaked at 1.08bar this morning on my way to
work.
My gathering from all the responses to my post is that I am
boosting
way over stock stock specs. Any ideas where I should look to remedy
this?
I'm sure I could benefit from an AFR guage even if it's only
one. I'm
planning to hook one up this weekend. Are there signal wires to the
ECU
that I can tap into to hook one up, or do I have to hook it up directly
to the 02 sensor?
Thanks again.....
Regards,
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 10:11:12
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 60K parts?
> Hello list members, I just have a quick
question about the parts I need for
> the 60K tune-up. Below, I will list
the parts I plan on buying for the 60K
> tune up and I would appreciate it
if you could tell me whether I've listed
> any extra parts or if I have
left off something:
>
> Parts: Timing Belt, AC Belt, Power Steering
Belt, Thermostat, Waterpump,
> Tensioner, End Yoke Holder, and Tensioner
pully socket (I changed the plugs
> and fuel filter about 10K miles ago,
so I won't order them)
Also consider replacing the camshaft seals, the
crankshaft seals, and all
pulleys (with bearings).
- --
If you
lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 10:14:28
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 60K parts?
> Does anyone know if the Mitsu Dealer has to
order the parts if they are
> going to do the service?
Not really,
but you should check with the local dealer that will do the
service
first. I bought my parts from one of the lists' discount
dealers. I then had a
local Mitsu dealer perform the service.
-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:21:16
-0500
From: "Judson Smith" <jsmith@fmbs.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
60K parts?
I would also replace the alternator belt.
I was told that I
should also replace my oil cap and PCV valve? Anyone else
heard of this? The
dealer said it was "clogged".
Judson Smith 1995 3000GT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
<AABOMB1@aol.com>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; starnet
<Stealth@StarNet.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K
parts?
>
> > Hello list members, I just have a quick
question about the parts I need
for
> > the 60K tune-up. Below, I
will list the parts I plan on buying for the
60K
> > tune up and I
would appreciate it if you could tell me whether I've
listed
> > any
extra parts or if I have left off something:
> >
> > Parts:
Timing Belt, AC Belt, Power Steering Belt, Thermostat, Waterpump,
> >
Tensioner, End Yoke Holder, and Tensioner pully socket (I changed
the
plugs
> > and fuel filter about 10K miles ago, so I won't order
them)
>
> Also consider replacing the camshaft seals, the crankshaft
seals, and all
> pulleys (with bearings).
>
> --
> If
you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
>
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego,
CA
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 12:10:16
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TPS or Stepper motor?
When the throttle position sensor (TPS)
goes south, the typical symptom is a
stumble while accellerating through a
particular place in the gas pedal
travel. This is where the stupid
graphite track on the TPS, which is just a
rheostat, has worn away.
Stumbling while backing off on the throttle
doesn't sound like a TPS failure
to me, unless it also stumbles on the way
up.
By stepper motor, I'm
guessing you're talking about the idle servo
controller (ISC), but that
causes "hunting", surging at idle. How well does
the car idle? 750 rpm
when warm? Are you getting a Check Engine light?
You said you have
replaced the fuel filter - was it preventive maintenance
or correcting for
bad gas? Next easy thing I would do is run some injector
cleaner
through the system. I guess I can imagine dirty injectors dripping
fuel
when you backoff the throttle, but being able to put out enough fuel to
keep
up with hard accelleration, but I can't say I've had this happen to any
of
our 4 cars.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: martin berkley [SMTP:3000gto@breathe.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:11 AM
> To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Team3S: TPS or Stepper motor?
>
> Hi Guys
> I mailed
to the list recently regarding a hesitation problem i am having
> with my
GTO TT.
> Basically the car runs great until i back off the gas pedal to
cruise at
> say, 70mph.
> The car then feels like it is hesitating
or misfiring.
> I have changed the plugs (NGK platinum) new K&N FIPK,
fuel filter, had the
> battery and plug wires checked with no
luck.
> I spoke with a Mitsu mechanic who says it may be either the TPS or
the
> stepper motor causing the problem, so i have booked in for next
Thursday
> to have the MUT II hooked up for analysis.
> Does anyone
have any thoughts on the symptoms and what the mechanic says?
> Any
feedback is appreciated.
> Regards
> Martin Berkley (UK)
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 10:29:44
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Maybe not clutch?
> The revving I am getting without
acceleration is happening between 4300rpm
> and 4800rpm. At 4800rpm,
everything seems to lock up and there isn't any
> "slippage' from there
on. Could this be symptomatic of a problem with the
> viscous coupling
instead of a clutch issue?
>
> I've talked to quite a few folks who
agree that if it was the clutch, there
> wouldn't be any hook-up after
that 500rpm increase.
>
> The car had 265/35VR18 on the rear when I
got it with 245/40VR18 on the
> front. Book says that this combo is almost
3/4" difference in height. Could
> this tire size mismatch have caused
trouble with my VC?
This is a distinct possibility.
265/35/18 has
diameter of 25.24" and turns 798.9 revs per mile
245/40/18 has diameter of
25.72" and turns 784.2 revs per mile
This difference in diameter could cause
the center differential/VC to wear
prematurely. There should be a
procedure in the manual to check the center
diff.
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of team3s V1
#400
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