team3s            Sunday, February 4 2001            Volume 01 : Number 396




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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 14:09:17 -0000
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: FW: Team3S: Lo-Jack and theft deterrent

Subject: RE: Team3S: Lo-Jack and theft deterrent

There are several simple, yet hard to defeat systems out there. Clifford in
the USA do a system that lets you shut down the car from a mobile or
landline by calling the car. A French system, which is under development by
my own company, will not only track the car by GPS anywhere in the world,
but allow remote control and shutdown (NO not like James Bond and his remote
control BMW). If you are in any, way good with electronics you can buy a
unit from Maplin Electronics that lets you control the shutdown system by
phone, retails about £120, you need to build it into a existing/new system
but it is very effective. If there was enough interest I would be keen to
build a system for the cars we so love.



eMail:                 george.shaw@xlsolutions.com
eMail:                 george.shaw@btinternet.com
Office:                 +44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail:  +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Mobile:               +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
Home:                 +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
ICQ#:                          1741675

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of ian sweeney
Sent: 02 February 2001 23:23
To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Lo-Jack and theft deterrent

further to the lo-jack idea there is an immobiliser that interacts with the
likes of lo-jack to shut the car down remotely. (i'm a little   biased cos i
used to work for the company that designed them!) but it is quite a cool
system that has 3 electrical circuit immobilisation, e.g coil, starter, fuel
pump but it also shuts down the fuel line itself using a solenoid valve.
The idea is that without the transponder you can't deactivate the system and
you have to overcome 3 electrical circuits and the fuel circuit.  It works
well because the solenoid valve and code verifaction electronics are encased
in a robust housing on the fuel line. It resisted a 15 minute attack test at
the regulatory test house in the UK which put it in the top rankingof theft
deterrents. This system can interact with Lo-Jack to shut down the car
remotely.  Its used quite widely on trucks in europe where they can shut
down the truck if it deviates from the designated corridor, ie its stolen!
the other thing i remember is it was about $200 installed. it's called a
Kosran ECV and i can find out more if anyone's interested

ian
under repair 92 3000 VR4
_________________________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 07:05:32 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Toe Recommendations

Trent

Take a look at this --- It's good info but as usual it dosn't give you the
setup for AWD.

http://www.advancedracing.com/grmart1.html

        Jim Berry
=====================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Trent <bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: Team 3S <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 5:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: Toe Recommendations


> I'm wandering what the effects of toe adjustments are.  After setting my
> front camber, I checked toe using a laser pointer.  With the beam just
> touching the front and rear sidewalls of the front tire (at rocker sill
> height), you can measure the distance from the rocker sill to the beam along
> the length of the rocker sill.  With this metheod, I measured both fronts
> with just a slight amont of toe-in.  I'm assuming this is good to go, but
> I'm wandering what kind of affects toe adjustments have at the front and the
> rear.  I havn't got to the rears yet, but I'm assuming they should have a
> slight amount of toe-in also.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 07:26:49 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Race Day Coming..

From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>

> Team3s Related Content:
>
> Has anyone found, or attempted to use other manuf. sized bushing
> replacements on a VR4?  Im almost at the point where we'll be considering
> suspension options, and this is a good time to do so for us if we even
> -have- the option of doing so. 


Geoff

I had my stealth TT in the Energy Suspension development lab where they
took a bunch of measurements and said they had nothing off the shelf to fit.
Below is a copy of an email I sent to George Kuo who initiated the contact,
I did a follow-up call but it was just before the SEMA show so they brushed
me off and told me to call back later --- I'll do a follow-up next week.

        Jim Berry
===========
George

I went to see Steve at Energy Suspension this morning and found that
Steve [ head of engineering ] called in sick. So instead of Steve I got his
second in command to look over the car.
After a quick look-see he didn't think they had any parts that would fit.
He and I went over the suspension and came up with the following ---

Front ------ lower control arm, front and rear bushing.
                 sway bar bushings

Rear  ------- upper and lower control arm, front and rear bushing
                  [ the front bushing, on the right side lower control arm
                  has the rear steer on it and he doesn't think a harder
                  bushing is a good idea --- may cause binding ??? ]
                  sway bar bushings
 
Engine ----- I added motor mounts to the wish list and he seemed
                   to think that was a good idea.

Sub-frames ---- there are several sub frames under the car, e.g.. the
                       rear suspension is mounted on a sub-frame which is
                       isolated from the body with bushings. We both felt
                       It probably not a good idea to try to change these.
                       Ride harshness would be increased with little or no
                       increase in performance.

As to what will happen as a result of this contact ???  I don't know, as
I talked to a worker bee who does not make those decisions. He did say
they had quite a few requests for bushing kits, so it seems like we should
get some more people to call in. I don't think a call in blitz is the correct
answer, because they'll just think we're stuffing the ballot box, but a dozen
calls over the next few weeks couldn't hurt.

Questions they didn't ask but may: Are there model year changes, are there
differences between base, ES, turbo etc.

        Jim Berry

PS:   I havn't posted this to any lists --- since you started this project I thought
         I'd leave that for you to do.
===========================================================



- ----- Original Message -----
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Team3S: Polyurethane bushings - Good News!


> Jim,
>
> Great!  I hope everything goes well and we get a set
> made for us soon~
>
> /George


> --- Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com> wrote:
> > George
> >
> > Finally got ahold of Steve at Energy Suspension and
> > set up a
> > time for Thursday morning at 8:00. I'll ley you know
> > how it turns
> > out.
> >
> >         Jim berry







***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 11:42:17 -0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Race Day Coming..

A few calls over the next couple of weeks tot the Energy Suspension
development lab is  great idea what is their phone number(s).  It would be
great if they had a 1-800 number, but that more than likely too much to ask
for.

Dave Best
http://davebest.topcities.com/



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>; <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Race Day Coming..


>
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> > Team3s Related Content:
> >
> > Has anyone found, or attempted to use other manuf. sized bushing
> > replacements on a VR4?  Im almost at the point where we'll be
considering
> > suspension options, and this is a good time to do so for us if we even
> > -have- the option of doing so.
>
>
> Geoff
>
> I had my stealth TT in the Energy Suspension development lab where they
> took a bunch of measurements and said they had nothing off the shelf to
fit.
> Below is a copy of an email I sent to George Kuo who initiated the
contact,
> I did a follow-up call but it was just before the SEMA show so they
brushed
> me off and told me to call back later --- I'll do a follow-up next week.
>
>         Jim Berry
> ===========
> George
>
> I went to see Steve at Energy Suspension this morning and found that
> Steve [ head of engineering ] called in sick. So instead of Steve I got
his
> second in command to look over the car.
> After a quick look-see he didn't think they had any parts that would fit.
> He and I went over the suspension and came up with the following ---
>
> Front ------ lower control arm, front and rear bushing.
>                  sway bar bushings
>
> Rear  ------- upper and lower control arm, front and rear bushing
>                   [ the front bushing, on the right side lower control arm
>                   has the rear steer on it and he doesn't think a harder
>                   bushing is a good idea --- may cause binding ??? ]
>                   sway bar bushings
>
> Engine ----- I added motor mounts to the wish list and he seemed
>                    to think that was a good idea.
>
> Sub-frames ---- there are several sub frames under the car, e.g.. the
>                        rear suspension is mounted on a sub-frame which is
>                        isolated from the body with bushings. We both felt
>                        It probably not a good idea to try to change these.
>                        Ride harshness would be increased with little or no
>                        increase in performance.
>
> As to what will happen as a result of this contact ???  I don't know, as
> I talked to a worker bee who does not make those decisions. He did say
> they had quite a few requests for bushing kits, so it seems like we should
> get some more people to call in. I don't think a call in blitz is the
correct
> answer, because they'll just think we're stuffing the ballot box, but a
dozen
> calls over the next few weeks couldn't hurt.
>
> Questions they didn't ask but may: Are there model year changes, are there
> differences between base, ES, turbo etc.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
> PS:   I havn't posted this to any lists --- since you started this project
I thought
>          I'd leave that for you to do.
> ===========================================================
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
> To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Team3S: Polyurethane bushings - Good News!
>
>
> > Jim,
> >
> > Great!  I hope everything goes well and we get a set
> > made for us soon~
> >
> > /George
>
>
> > --- Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com> wrote:
> > > George
> > >
> > > Finally got ahold of Steve at Energy Suspension and
> > > set up a
> > > time for Thursday morning at 8:00. I'll ley you know
> > > how it turns
> > > out.
> > >
> > >         Jim berry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 11:51:42 -0800
From: "nwlink" <vlsgto@nwlink.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CATZ?

George,

I am still doing research on the HID conversion for the 3S. The Catz HID is
not good. It will boost the light ourput by about 2 times but that would be
all. If u are referring to the CATZ fog light system....go with PIAA.
Excellent. PIAA's HID conversion isn't anything to boast about. So far,
Phillips is the worst. The Xenon kit ballasts directly from Audi A8s and A6s
is the best - BOSCH.

As for the CATZ ZETA00 series, I have heard nothing but "it sucks" comments
here in Seattle. I just thought I should let you know about HID and Xenon
conversions. :)) If u really want to get good driving and fog light systems
for the 9006 HID and Xenon upgrades, Belloff and Bosch would be the best way
to go! I have the Belloff conversion ordered already.

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Super Advan Gen II ....coming in March!
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of George Shaw
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 5:57 AM
To: Team3S Technical Forum
Subject: Team3S: CATZ?


CATZ are not that common in the UK. Does anyone have any experience with
these or other auxiliary lights? Which are the BEST for driving & fog that
fit our cars? Has anyone tried the CATZ Zeta00 system that boosts the
voltage to STD lights? I see they also do a neat turbo timer!

http://www.fet-usa.com/shownews1.asp?newsid=27


eMail:                 george.shaw@xlsolutions.com
eMail:                 george.shaw@btinternet.com
Office:                 +44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail:  +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Mobile:               +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
Home:                 +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
ICQ#:                          1741675



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 19:59:38 -0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Oversteer (Was Tires)

Hi All,

The O'l Poop is correct.
Out cars push (plow, understeer).  On a wet skidpad in
the rain,(easier on the tires and car), I could never
get the TT to spin from a push.  I did get it to
rotate a little from a push by lifting.  But by
applying power again it just started to push again.
That was with the Yok 032's.

Caution on attempt on a track...
I did get the TT to do a 360+.  It was at Nelson
Ledges in turn 4 Oak Tree which is about 140 degree.
I entered the turn about 85 and had NO brakes.  I was
deep in the turn and cranked the wheel and lifted.  TT
spun; I stayed on the track and continued the lap.

What happened you say??  Well I always change to race
pads and to do so you need to push the piston back
into the caliper to remove the street pads and insert
the track pads.  Nelson is such that you don't have to
push the brake pedal to get onto the track.  And only
whimps brake for turn 1, 2, and 3.

Beware --- always chek your brakes before going onto a
track.

And have Kent Rafferty behind you if you do stupid
things.  (Will you be at MidOhio in April??)

Lesson learned and remembered.

Be of good cheer,
John


[snip]
- --- Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net> wrote:

> The best way to check for oversteer is to run a skid
> pad. Put a pylon or a
> beer can down in the middle of a flat parking lot
> somewhere, and drive
> around it in a circle. Keep going faster and faster
> at the same radius
> until you can't hold it any more and the car slides
> out. If it slides off
> tail first, you have oversteer. More likely, with
> our cars, it will plow
> off front end first in a classic understeer or
> straight sideways because
> it's neutral.
>
> Rich/old poop
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

__________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 12:07:24 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: Team3S: Recommended tire compounds for AutoX racing

Attention AutoX racers -- here are some great Kumho and Hoosier tire tips.

These tips came from Kent Rafferty, SCCA Solo II 2000 National Champ in
Street Mod in his Toyota Supra TT.  These are great if you are trying to
decide what tires to use for an upcoming AutoX season or some small open
track road courses.  Some of these might not be advisable for large open
road courses (Mid-Ohio, Road Atlanta, etc.).

I am fortunate enough to have some of Kent's well-used (read: perfectly
worn-in) tires from AutoX.  I have full sets of Kumho Victoracer V700 tires
(255/45/17, 275/45/17, and whopping 315s if I feel like them someday) so if
someone wants a report on the tires or wants me to ship them some I will.  I
would prefer to use them for my own racing but I might not use them up fast
enough and would like to see them get used.  Let me know.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, harnesses, rollbar soon, and a custom spark
plug plate
Yoko Advan A-032 road racing tires
Kumho Victoracer V700 AutoX tires

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kent Rafferty
To: Schilberg, Darren

Kumhos are better in sub-60 degree temps.
Kumhos last longer.
Kumhos can be run at high speed or low speed.
Kumhos can be driven on the street.
Kumhos are slightly easier to drive with a larger breakaway "window."

Hoosiers are better in warmer temps or if you have a co-driver in cooler
temps.
Hoosier "A" compound tires can only be used for low speed.
Hoosiers aren't recommended for street use (they have no steel belts and are
prone to puncture).
Hoosiers are better on concrete surfaces.
Hoosiers like lots of negative camber and high tire pressures.
If conditions are right though, Hoosiers are faster.
Most of the trophies at SCCA Nationals were won by cars on Hoosier tires.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #396
*********************