team3s
Thursday, February 1
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
394
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Jan 2001 22:40:54 EST
From: Kdog109SD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intake Plenum (whole path !)
Roger, and all other that responded, I just
wanted to thank you. Roger..
that "whole path" you wrote about, that
is genious.. really helpful..
although my car is a non-turbo, I am
gonna follow your advice and see how it
ends up, from the sounds of it, it
seems like a good mod to do as a whole.
Thanks
Kunal
S.
In a message dated 01-01-31 13:11:21 EST, you write:
> I
understand the smiley Jeff ;-)
> Well, the exhaust path is not
critical before the turbo as one should know
> what keeps the
turbine wheel turning. It's the pressure difference between
>
before and after the turbine ! So the higher the pressure before and the
> lower the exhaust backpressure after the wheel the better the
efficiency
of
> the system ! This is why an open exhaust after
the turbine outlet is what
> is the best for high rpm while some
backpressure should be there on the
low
> rpm basis where the
turbine doesn't act as a big restriction and the
engine
>
produces more tourque due to the backpressure.
>
>
>The largest restriction in your intake is your valve..anything ya
do
> >before that outside of larger ICs doesnt buy you a thing in
a turbo
> >environment.
>
> There are
many restrictions that can be found in the path but this is how
>
an engine is built. Some parts are designed for mass-production and
> improvement can be found. Just have a look on my project page and
one can
> see the exhaust path after the valve and how it can be
improved to prevent
> restrictions and especially turbulences (our
biggest emeny outside the
> mufflers)
>
>
After the turbos, every bend in the piping acts like a restriction and the
> IC itselfs is the biggest as it acts as a slow-down for the air
stream.
> Correctly said, the stream stays the same but pressure is
slower built up
> on a large intercooler.
> Then there
is a trhottle-body with the plate that is a restriction again
>
that causes heavy turbulence.
> Now enter the intake plenum and find
the rear core that allows to keep
> enough pressure to provide a
balanced feed to the cylinders. Of course,
> this would be much
better with a central or double feed.
> Then the entries of the
runners, not the best thing in the world but how
> would one do it
better for the mass ?
> The runners lead to the intake manifold
where we find a thin gasket that
is
> larger than the openings.
Gasket matching the 6 channels helps in
> increasing the amount of
air traveling per minute. Increasing the size of
> the runners
would increase the amount too but the same time the speed is
>
decreased what would result in an necessity to change the lenght of the
> runners too !
> Finally the path leads to the intake
valves, where still a good turbulence
> free mixture flow is
needed.
> The stock injectors do help in this case as they do have a
dual spray
> pattern. No larger injector does this and therefore is
not optimal as it
> sprays to the wall between the valves. Work on
this part for the increased
> pressure and amount of mixture. It
should be machined to get the edge more
> far away from the
injector. This is also due to the fact that most
> injectors are
longer at their nozzle and do create more turbulence than
>
expected.
> Finally the path to the valves is now optimized and the
valve design gives
> the intake stream the necessary swirl to
provide an optimal filling of the
> chamber. This can only be
provided by a good fast stream with a high
> velocity sent above
the shape of the valve body.
> For the outlet speed is also
interesting, as the chamber should be
> evaporated as fast as
possible. The exhaust manifold then doesn't play a
> big rule, at
least not in our cars, as the turbine housing is what acts as
> the
biggest restriction. Before the turbine housing the pressure gets
>
increased and pushes against the turbine wheel. The wheel then turns and
> the exhaust gases speed up in their velocity. The smaller
diameter to the
> turbine increases this while pressure stays the
same or even increases due
> to the increasing rpm. But if pressure
becomes too high, the temperature
> quickly rises and hits back
into the chamber causing a lean situation...
> what leads to
detonation. This can be seen on high EGT as an example. now,
> the
exhaust manifold can be designed in many different ways, Kenne Bells
> "Maximum Boost" gives a good description in that
case.
>
> Finally, if one does a modification to the
intake or exhaust he always
> should do the whole path because onyl
the combination of these rules. So
it
> isn't necessary to
improve the exhaust part when there is no more mixture
> that can
be filled in !
>
> Happy porting,
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 04:20:42
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: F**king car thieves
Maybe the MX thief got to Hungary
already. We can only hope.
Anyway, on the "car tracker" (at least
here in the US) it was only capable
of tracking in the large cities where a
system has been installed (New York,
Los Angeles, Chicago, D.C., etc.) but
their webpage now has lists of states
where it works although I assume only
the large counties and not some
mid-western places (sorry,
Merritt).
This particular system is called LoJack, http://www.lojack.com, and when
stolen you
can call the police and they can track your car. I am not sure
how your
tracker works. Maybe it is more like a fancy GPS system that can
tell
you where it went to. There are others out there too I'm sure.
The
initial LoJack system is $600 and the other bells and whistles cost
more
(starter diabler, alarm, etc.).
The LoJack allows police to find
out where it is at the current moment.
Fancy models (and cars like the
Cadillac with the OnStar system) can
actually have the Police shut off the
motor of the car and lock the doors.
Now THIS is a system I want on my next
car. Anyone know when the next
3000GT is coming out?
<grin>
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and never had a car stolen ... yet
... fortunately most people in
the US don't like to steal a manual
transmission car anyway
- -----Original Message-----
From: Syncom [mailto:syncom@mail.digitel2002.hu]
Sent:
Wednesday, January 31, 2001 19:05
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Re: F**king
car thieves
Now that's what I call luck. I'm happy for you. Since car
thefts are also
a danger in our country, I had a tracker system put into my
'95 SL. It
cost about 1700-1800 USD but I can take it with me into any future
car I
buy,
and it's really amazing what it's capable of (detailed
telemetry, etc.) You
might want to check out such a system, too. I can only
heartily recommend.
Hope they'll also find the MX. In tonights news I
heard police shot and
killed
a car thief while he tried to escape in our
country. Hell, I was happy.
Best wishes,
Zsolt Kovacs
Budapest,
Hungary
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 14:55:49
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Replacing Steering column
Hi all.
The steering column in the
car was bent by the thieves and needs to be
replaced. Is it possible to save
my current steering wheel/Airbag and if
so is there anything I should know
before I take it off?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:23:55
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Replacing Steering column
Disconnect the battery and let sit a couple of
minutes to make sure the airbag is disabled ---- then it's just a matter of
4
bolts on the back of the wheel to remove the trim and the airbag comes
out, there is a connector on the back. After
that a steering wheel puller is
required --- you can buy a cheap one for $15 US. I think there are a couple of
connectors
for the radio, horn and cruise control on the airbag housing
also, but all in all pretty
easy.
Jim
Berry
=====================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
To:
3000gt <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:55 AM
Subject: Team3S: Replacing Steering
column
> Hi all.
> The steering column in the car was bent
by the thieves and needs to be
> replaced. Is it possible to save my
current steering wheel/Airbag and if
> so is there anything I should know
before I take it off?
>
> Thanks
> Gordon
> Dublin,
Ireland
>
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:18:33
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
Noble,
a couple more
clues. noise is definetly from the top end and changes with
engine
revs. Checked the oil and it is low but ok. oil pressure reads ok
also. on the way home i let everything heat up and then hit the freeway. the
car didnt seem to accelerate as smoothly as before and in 2nd and 3rd gear
over 5500rpm under hard acceleration there was a bad miss, not sure if
electric or timing. I can hear the ticking noise at idle only, above idle
road noise and engine noise drown out sound. the noise sounds like its
coming from just under the inlet manifold (got ECI written on it in big
letters) and sounds really like tappets? any
ideas?
thanks
ian
>From: "noble" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
>To: "ian
sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
>Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 00:03:03
-0800
>
>You should be running a high weight synthetic like 10W40
ALL of the time.
>Regular oil will cake itself to critical turbo oil lines
and bearings more
>easily than synthetic,
>leading to turbo
failure.
>Too much oil is no good; it will interfere with the
crankcase.
>
>I'd just change the oil it if I were you. Expect
about 5 quarts to fill
>the
>crankcase.
>Your oil pressure
should read a good 1/2 to 3/4+ under full boost.
>Idle should have a
minimum of about 1/4 to 1/3 (hot).
>
>If you are still concerned, a
compression test will pinpoint problems
>within
>the
engine
>further.
>Other than that, is there any other symptoms your
car is showing? (And
>under what
conditions?)
>
>Best,
>Noble
_________________________________________________________________
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your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:27:59
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Customer Contact - RaceBrakes.com
Argh! Guess I'll have
to pull my brakes to make sure...
- -Jim, Munich
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Wendy [mailto:timg@globalpac.com]
Sent:
Saturday, January 27, 2001 5:30 AM
To: Jim Matthews
Subject: Re: Customer
Contact - RaceBrakes.com
If you have a 94 Dodge Stealth AWD I show
that is the correct pad. Dodge
didn't change the pads mid year like
Mitsubishi did they waited for the next
year. You can place the order over
the e-mail, or call us at (800) 537-6842.
Wendy
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: <jim@the-matthews.com>
> To:
<sales@porterfield-brakes.com>
>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 11:13 PM
> Subject: Customer Contact -
RaceBrakes.com
>
>
> > Information From
Porterfield-Brakes.com
> >
> > Originating from http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/contact.htm
>
>
> > Email: jim@the-matthews.com
> >
Name: Jim Matthews
> >
Phone: None Given
> >
Address: CMR 407 Box 124
> >
City: APO
> >
Locale: Germany
> > Zip/Postal: 09098
>
> Country: United States
> >
> >
comments: I'm confused by the part numbers listed on the
Porterfield
web
> site:
> >
> > R4S DODGE
Stealth 4wd Turbo 91-94 AP531
$89.00 AP532 69.00
> > R4S DODGE Stealth
4wd
95-96 AP531 $89.00
AP631 99.00
> > R4S MITSUBISHI 3000 GT VR-4
4/90-5/93 AP531 $89.00 AP532 69.00
>
> R4S MITSUBISHI 3000 GT VR-4
6/93-98 AP531 $89.00 AP631
99.00
> >
> > I have a '94 TT and bought the AP532 rear pads
several months ago
(haven't
> installed them yet). Did I get the
wrong ones?
> >
> > I can't remember how I ordered these pads,
either... I need a set of R4S
> pads for the front and can't find the
order form on the Porterfield site!
> >
> >
> >
Referring page: http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/contact.htm
>
> User address: 212.72.67.137
> > User host: fp.baycix.de
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:09:51
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: Customer Contact - RaceBrakes.com
Just pulled them and
Porterfield is WRONG - AP 631 it is! Sent them a
picture and my VIN to
encourage them to fix their catalog and web
application list.
- -Jim,
Munich
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Matthews
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:28 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: FW: Customer Contact -
RaceBrakes.com
Argh! Guess I'll have to pull my brakes to make
sure...
- -Jim, Munich
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wendy
[mailto:timg@globalpac.com]
Sent:
Saturday, January 27, 2001 5:30 AM
To: Jim Matthews
Subject: Re: Customer
Contact - RaceBrakes.com
If you have a 94 Dodge Stealth AWD I show
that is the correct pad. Dodge
didn't change the pads mid year like
Mitsubishi did they waited for the next
year. You can place the order over
the e-mail, or call us at (800) 537-6842.
Wendy
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: <jim@the-matthews.com>
> To:
<sales@porterfield-brakes.com>
>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 11:13 PM
> Subject: Customer Contact -
RaceBrakes.com
>
>
> > Information From
Porterfield-Brakes.com
> >
> > Originating from http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/contact.htm
>
>
> > Email: jim@the-matthews.com
> >
Name: Jim Matthews
> >
Phone: None Given
> >
Address: CMR 407 Box 124
> >
City: APO
> >
Locale: Germany
> > Zip/Postal: 09098
>
> Country: United States
> >
> >
comments: I'm confused by the part numbers listed on the
Porterfield
web
> site:
> >
> > R4S DODGE
Stealth 4wd Turbo 91-94 AP531
$89.00 AP532 69.00
> > R4S DODGE Stealth
4wd
95-96 AP531 $89.00
AP631 99.00
> > R4S MITSUBISHI 3000 GT VR-4
4/90-5/93 AP531 $89.00 AP532 69.00
>
> R4S MITSUBISHI 3000 GT VR-4
6/93-98 AP531 $89.00 AP631
99.00
> >
> > I have a '94 TT and bought the AP532 rear pads
several months ago
(haven't
> installed them yet). Did I get the
wrong ones?
> >
> > I can't remember how I ordered these pads,
either... I need a set of R4S
> pads for the front and can't find the
order form on the Porterfield site!
> >
> >
> >
Referring page: http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/contact.htm
>
> User address: 212.72.67.137
> > User host: fp.baycix.de
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 10:31:00
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
Ian,
It sounds to me
like a fuel injector solenoid is going bad. This can explain why you are
experiencing a power drain.
Try this: Get a long metal rod and place it
near each injector location. Cup your hand around the end and put your ear to
it. This will help you isolate the exact location...
Good
luck,
Dan J
94 Stealth TT
>>> "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com> - 2/1/01
9:18 AM >>>
Noble,
a couple more clues. noise is definetly
from the top end and changes with
engine revs. Checked the oil and it
is low but ok. oil pressure reads ok
also. on the way home i let everything
heat up and then hit the freeway. the
car didnt seem to accelerate as
smoothly as before and in 2nd and 3rd gear
over 5500rpm under hard
acceleration there was a bad miss, not sure if
electric or timing. I can
hear the ticking noise at idle only, above idle
road noise and engine noise
drown out sound. the noise sounds like its
coming from just under the
inlet manifold (got ECI written on it in big
letters) and sounds really like
tappets? any
ideas?
thanks
ian
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 14:21:28
-0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: timing belt tools
Anyone in the Raleigh, NC area want to
sell/lend/rent me the 2 tools
required to do the timing belt?
Tallahasee Mitsu, Norco, West Broad and
Sunrise Mitsu are on 2 week order,
the local dealerships don't have it
either.
In fact, you don't
have to be in the Raliegh area if you are willing to
ship them to me. I
will pay shipping, but I need them by Saturday AM,
so on my honor I will
reimburse your shipping in the return package.
As an update, I
have ordered all the 120K service stuff for my water
pump leak.
TYIA
- --
Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4 sitting in a puddle at
105K miles.
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel, USA
(919) 850-6386
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:28:42
-0500
From: "Judson Smith" <jsmith@fmbs.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
timing belt tools
I am looking for someone to copy me a 1995 3000 GT base
manual. When I
recently bought the car, it wasn't in the glove compartment. I
will pay all
shipping of course, and a small fee for photocopying.
Thanks,
Judson Smith
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:50:52
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car manuals (was Team3S: timing belt tools)
I have a 1995
VR-4 manual which will cover everything for you for the most
part. Let
me know offline if you want a copy of this or if anyone else
would need a
copy of it.
They are also only $15 from the dealer and take about a
week. This allows
you to send in the register card in the front and
officially register with
Mitsubishi for future updates, recalls, technical
service bulletins, etc.
Maybe we could persuade Vineet to scan some of
these manuals and put them on
the next updated Manuals on CD.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
3Si
#577
1995 VR-4
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Judson Smith [mailto:jsmith@fmbs.com]
Sent: Thursday,
February 01, 2001 14:29
To: Marc Jonathan Jacobs; Team3S; stealth
dragnet
Subject: Re: Team3S: timing belt tools
I am looking for
someone to copy me a 1995 3000 GT base manual. When I
recently bought the
car, it wasn't in the glove compartment. I will pay all
shipping of course,
and a small fee for photocopying. Thanks,
Judson
Smith
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 12:54:36
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
Cup your hand around the end
and put your ear to it. This will help you
isolate the exact location.....OR
get electrocuted!! i'll try it
though,
thanks
ian
>From: Daniel Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
>To:
sween3000gt@hotmail.com, nketo@sympatico.ca
>CC: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
>Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001
10:31:00 -0800
>
>Ian,
>
>It sounds to me like a fuel
injector solenoid is going bad. This can
>explain why you are
experiencing a power drain.
>
>Try this: Get a long metal rod and
place it near each injector location.
>Cup your hand around the end and
put your ear to it. This will help you
>isolate the exact
location...
>
>Good luck,
>
>Dan J
>94 Stealth
TT
>
> >>> "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com> - 2/1/01
9:18 AM >>>
>Noble,
>
>a couple more clues. noise is
definetly from the top end and changes with
>engine revs. Checked
the oil and it is low but ok. oil pressure reads ok
>also. on the way home
i let everything heat up and then hit the freeway.
>the
>car didnt
seem to accelerate as smoothly as before and in 2nd and 3rd gear
>over
5500rpm under hard acceleration there was a bad miss, not sure
if
>electric or timing. I can hear the ticking noise at idle only, above
idle
>road noise and engine noise drown out sound. the noise sounds
like its
>coming from just under the inlet manifold (got ECI written on it
in big
>letters) and sounds really like tappets? any
ideas?
>
>thanks
>ian
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 13:08:14
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
You can't get
electrocuted...but if it worries you, use a wooden
dowel.
DJ
>>> "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com> - 2/1/01
12:54 PM >>>
Cup your hand around the end and put your ear to it.
This will help you
isolate the exact location.....OR get
electrocuted!! i'll try it
though,
thanks
ian
>From: Daniel Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
>To:
sween3000gt@hotmail.com, nketo@sympatico.ca
>
>Ian,
>
>It
sounds to me like a fuel injector solenoid is going bad. This can
>explain why you are experiencing a power drain.
>
>Try this:
Get a long metal rod and place it near each injector location.
>Cup your
hand around the end and put your ear to it. This will help you
>isolate
the exact location...
>
>Good
luck,
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:09:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacing Steering column
ya..those come off dead easy.
Shouldnt be a problem keeping those at all.
On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, Gordon
Tyrrell wrote:
> Hi all.
> The steering column in the car was
bent by the thieves and needs to be
> replaced. Is it possible to save my
current steering wheel/Airbag and if
> so is there anything I should know
before I take it off?
>
> Thanks
> Gordon
> Dublin,
Ireland
>
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 23:18:38
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: Customer Contact - RaceBrakes.com
Porterfield has agreed to
exchange my pads for the correct ones and will
waive the $30 price difference
as compensation for the inconvenience.
They're a good outfit. Now if
only they'd add a secure order form to their
web site and ship USPS to my APO
address!
Does anyone know the build date when the larger rear brake pads
first
appeared on the Stealth Turbo? Here's all I could offer
them:
%%%
Regarding the correction to your catalog/web page, I
understand that the
Dodge Stealth and Mitsubishi 3000GT were built at the
same assembly plant in
Japan. I don't know if the transition date for
the rear brake pads is
exactly the same for the Stealth and 3000GT (your web
page lists the latter
as 6/93), but if it helps, my particular '94 Stealth
has a build date of
11/93.
%%%
- -Jim Matthews,
Munich
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 23:24:09
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Picture of an installed K&M Filtercharger needed (OFF
TOPIC)
I need some good pictures of any car with an installed K&N
Filtercharger
that I can put onto the upcomming parts page for my site -- if
possible with
the monting braket shown.
If you have some, please send
it to me privately,
Thanks in advance
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
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Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:06:08
-0800
From: "noble" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
Ian,
You might be
discribing two different problems.
1)A ticking noise
2)Power loss at high
loads
The first is something I've noticed in my car for a while; it even
clangs
around a bit with the
clutch dissengaged and in neutral idle.
I wouldn't be too worried if this
is the case; 8 years for me.
The
latter might be because of your plugs blowing out under boost, or a
faulty
injector(s).
Either way, you're gonna have to take off your intake plenium
(ECI letters)
to check it out.
Your injectors can be professionally flow
tested/cleaned, and your plugs
replaced with a gap of .032-.035
I change
my plugs about every 2 years (20K) to play safe.
If this doesn't cut it,
compression test the cylinders.
Best,
Noble
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: ian sweeney <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
To:
<nketo@sympatico.ca>
Cc: <team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 01, 2001 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise
under hood
> Noble,
>
> a couple more clues. noise is
definetly from the top end and changes with
> engine revs. Checked
the oil and it is low but ok. oil pressure reads ok
> also. on the way
home i let everything heat up and then hit the freeway.
the
> car didnt
seem to accelerate as smoothly as before and in 2nd and 3rd gear
> over
5500rpm under hard acceleration there was a bad miss, not sure if
>
electric or timing. I can hear the ticking noise at idle only, above
idle
> road noise and engine noise drown out sound. the noise sounds
like its
> coming from just under the inlet manifold (got ECI written on
it in big
> letters) and sounds really like tappets? any
ideas?
>
> thanks
> ian
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 23:48:40
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Picture of an installed K&M Filtercharger needed (OFF
TOPIC)
Thanks for the response guys, but please note :
I need
pictures of the K&N Filtercharger (for 2nd gen DSMs) installed and
NOT
the K&N FIPK.
Thanks again
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 1 Feb 2001 16:23:38
-0800
From: kristie1@thesimpsons.com
Subject:
Team3S: catalytic converters
Is there any way to unclog catalytic
converters>?
_______________________________________________
Get
free Internet access at www.thesimpsons.com
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Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 20:19:36
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
catalytic converters
If it's one of your pre-cats you can gut it but
you'll have to do both. If
it's your main cat, short of gutting that,
there is nothing you can do but
purchase a new one. Or you can take
your chances and run without one, of
course no one would do that would they
(wink, wink).
If you did remove it, that would give you a good excuse to
lower your car,
and make sure you turn it off if/when you are pulled over
too. Cops for the
most part don't want to have to roll around on the
ground to check to see if
you have a cat on or not. And if you have to
go through emission inspection
then you can worry about it then and maybe
find a used one. ATR downpipe
will very nicely eliminate your main
cat. But of course this is for off
road use only. Oh, you are
only talking about 6 bolts to remove the ATR and
re-install you old cat and
downpipe.
Dave Best
http://davebest.topcities.com/
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <kristie1@thesimpsons.com>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 01, 2001 7:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: catalytic
converters
> Is there any way to unclog catalytic
converters>?
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
> Get free Internet access
at www.thesimpsons.com
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 17:20:51
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
Noble,
I think to an extent
you are right. THe ticking noise was there previously.
It is now verging on
knocking so it may in fact be a different issue.
Somebody else
suggested an injector solenoid which might tally with a miss
at high rpm.
The miss didnt seemt to be worse in 3rd than 2nd, so that would
suggest its
independent of load so maybe not the plugs. My guess is the
injectors.
anyway all will be revealed tomorrow cos i'm off to the dealer in
the
morning.
thanks
Ian
>From: "noble" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
>To: "ian
sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
>CC:
<team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
>Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:06:08
-0800
>
>Ian,
>
>You might be discribing two different
problems.
>1)A ticking noise
>2)Power loss at high
loads
>
>The first is something I've noticed in my car for a while;
it even clangs
>around a bit with the
>clutch dissengaged and in
neutral idle. I wouldn't be too worried if this
>is the case; 8
years for me.
>
>The latter might be because of your plugs blowing
out under boost, or a
>faulty injector(s).
>Either way, you're gonna
have to take off your intake plenium (ECI letters)
>to check it
out.
>Your injectors can be professionally flow tested/cleaned, and your
plugs
>replaced with a gap of .032-.035
>I change my plugs about
every 2 years (20K) to play safe.
>
>If this doesn't cut it,
compression test the
cylinders.
>
>Best,
>Noble
>
>----- Original
Message -----
>From: ian sweeney <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
>To:
<nketo@sympatico.ca>
>Cc:
<team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Thursday, February 01, 2001 9:18 AM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: funny ticking
noise under hood
>
>
> > Noble,
> >
> > a
couple more clues. noise is definetly from the top end and changes
>with
> > engine revs. Checked the oil and it is low but
ok. oil pressure reads
>ok
> > also. on the way home i let
everything heat up and then hit the freeway.
>the
> > car didnt
seem to accelerate as smoothly as before and in 2nd and 3rd
>gear
>
> over 5500rpm under hard acceleration there was a bad miss, not sure
if
> > electric or timing. I can hear the ticking noise at idle only,
above
>idle
> > road noise and engine noise drown out
sound. the noise sounds like its
> > coming from just under the
inlet manifold (got ECI written on it in big
> > letters) and sounds
really like tappets? any ideas?
> >
> > thanks
> >
ian
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:38:57
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: catalytic converters
Ya..gut it.
But if you want to
maintain a working one..yes.
Replace it.
On 1 Feb 2001 kristie1@thesimpsons.com
wrote:
> Is there any way to unclog catalytic converters>?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Get
free Internet access at www.thesimpsons.com
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:52:40
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Race Day Coming..
Team3s Related Content:
Has anyone
found, or attempted to use other manuf. sized bushing
replacements on a
VR4? Im almost at the point where we'll be considering
suspension
options, and this is a good time to do so for us if we even
- -have- the
option of doing so.
Lastly..for everyone who had interest in
attending the Buttonwillow
open-track event with us next weekend..its time to
get set! *g*
Reply to me privately please. We also have room in our
cars/truck for
some passengers if anyone wants to tag along (or caravan down
with the
group) to spectate and ride along..etc.
Let me
know.
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#394
*********************