team3s
Wednesday, January 31
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
393
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:24:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
> specified for our car. I
believe it's more important to have the same
> amount of negative camber
between left and right wheels than to have the
> same amount between front
and rear. We are not experiencing any abnormal
> tire wear. In
fact, our track tires are outlasting many other drivers, and
> are wearing
very evenly.
- ---
Thats not totally true.
Without your body
weight in the car (as it would when you are driving) you
impact camber by
usually .2d from left to right, this also affects toe-in
as well.
Any
static unloaded alignment you get, is a ways off what it -should- be
as its
being raced on a track.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:27:49
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TT with automatic
Horsepower schmorsche power.
Its
torque that destroys auto trannies, and those DSMs dont have a
mountain of
torque down LOW were its hell on an auto tranny. You'll build
up more
heat and stress from 0-40 at WOT than you will from 20-150. Three
hundred+
FtLbs of torque so easily available in the VR4 on the simple mods
would be
incredibly destructive on anything but a highly modified tranny
(larger valve
body, modified accumulators, expensive clutch packs).
Even if parts are
available, its not worth the relatively huge power loss
in the
conversion.
On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 DKoenigs@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks
for your opinion, Steve. You may be right BUT; 1) I'm betting that no
> one ever thought a powerglide would hold 1000 HP+ behind a big block,
2) the
> DSM guys are running 400 HP+ (conservative for some) with
automatics. Less
> torque I know, but pretty big HP just the same,
and 3) it doesn't sound like
> the manual guys have what you would call a
"bullet proof" drive train. Hell,
> I'll bet I can even buy parts
to repair the auto.
>
> Don
> Hoping someone has made this
swap and will share info
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:46:36
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: Clutch fluid leaking inside the car
Anytime you replace a
master cylinder, consider doing the slave at the
same time..the better
response/pressure generated by the new master -may-
fail the
slave.
Just preventative maintenance..coz its cheaper in your driveway
than in
BFE.
On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
>
Subject:
>
re: Clutch fluid
leaking
>
inside the
car
>
Attachment(s):
>
<font size=-1></font>
>
> Chris,
>
> Same
thing happened to me last summer. The clutch Master cylinder was bad.
> A
kit is not available and a new one costs about $130 through a Dodge or
>
Mitsu dealer (same part number). You can replace it yourself, but it's a
>
real pain and will take some time. The brake MC, brake booster, the
steel
> clutch tube, and battery all have to be removed before you can get
to the
> clutch MC. A few other things have to be loosened up to remove
that tube.
> It's a real headache to remove. And then you have to spend
some time on the
> floorboard behind the pedals to get to all the bolts.
It's doable, though.
> Don't forget to bleed the clutch and brakes when
you're done --- another
> pain in the ###.
> Hope this
helps.
>
> JeffW
> '92 VR4
>
>
>
> Hi everyone, the other day i noticed that my car was
leaking clutch
> fluid
> >from inside the car, it seems to be
leaking form a rubber part thats right
> >behind the pedal. Has
anyone had this problem before? I was thinking
> maybe
>
>it could be something i could fix, and save me from being yet
another
> victim
> >at my local mitsu dealer. Any advise
its greatly appreciated. Thanks in
> >advance.
> >Chris,
92 SL.
> (Embedded image moved to file: pic01847.pcx)
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:25:35
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TT with automatic
Not quite true, though I am speaking from a
lighter car experience
(DSM), but the tranny internals and valvebody are the
same on the
3/S's. Just like you upgrade your clutch on a M/T before you
modify
your car for more power (or after, but either way, it's required),
you
NEED TO UPGRADE YOUR VALVEBODY to allow quicker and firmer
shifts,
along with more pressure to each clutch pack. O/D is a known
failure
point, and there are upgrade end clutches available
through
DUNRITE-CONVERTER.COM . An upgrade torque converter would be nice on
a
turbocharged application as well.
The tranny should bolt right up,
and brake torque to a few psi, and
launch, and you should leave one or
two(especially with a Quaife FWD
LSD) dark patches on the ground :). Tranny's
from DSM's WON'T work,
because the bell housing that mates to the engine is
way different,
the rest is the same.
Only 2 tranny's have "broken" due
to 400+hp, in our at.dsm.org club,
and that's because the necessary mods were
either not done, or not
done properly. You might have a little more problem
with a 3/S with
that much hp, since they weigh more too. Talk to Tony at
dunrite,
he'll set you up. I think GTPRO was doing something similar as
well.
Oh, and the parts needed for this? are like 75$ each (OD, and
VB
mods). There are over 8 people with 350+hp in the club, and no
problems
so far! Far less than I can say for DSM m/t's (broken shift
forks, clutches,
diff's, etc). The car that KaizenTuning is campaining
is also an A/T... of
sorts :)
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/
http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
>Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:25:38
-0500
>From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S:
TT with automatic
>All three transmissions are 100% interchangeable
with all three
engine
>variations. However, the automatic tranny
has been known to be
failure
>prone in high-output nitrous and forced
induction applications.
>Jeff V.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:28:19
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TT with automatic
> Only 2 tranny's have "broken" due to
400+hp, in our at.dsm.org club,
- ---
Ok..but what torque
levels. HP is irrelevant. Torque is what shears the
living hell
out of a tranny...and the lower in the RPM band peak torque
appears, the
worse it is.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 23:48:41
EST
From: DKoenigs@aol.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TT with automatic
-
--part1_8c.1c32359.27a8f329_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thanks
Vinny,
Yours is only the second reply I have had that actually discussed
the
project. The trans mods have been done. In fact done and
then some. If you
want a real shift try running without the pressure
control solenoid. Damned
nears changes lanes on a 1 - 2 full throttle
shift. Torque steer is a bitch
on a FWD if you are not ready for
it.
A properly prepared automatic can't break as often as that fine
Getrag unit
the M/T boys have to put up with. And once again if it
does, parts are
available. None of this complete unit replacement
"repair" if you want to
call that a repair. You know. It's the
one that lightens your wallet by
several K.
-
--part1_8c.1c32359.27a8f329_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Thanks Vinny,
<BR>
<BR>Yours is only the second
reply I have had that actually discussed the
<BR>project.
The trans mods have been done. In fact done and then some.
If you
<BR>want a real shift try running without the
pressure control solenoid. Damned
<BR>nears changes lanes on
a 1 - 2 full throttle shift. Torque steer is a bitch
<BR>on
a FWD if you are not ready for it.
<BR>
<BR>A properly
prepared automatic can't break as often as that fine Getrag unit
<BR>the M/T boys have to put up with. And once again if it
does, parts are
<BR>available. None of this complete unit
replacement "repair" if you want to
<BR>call that a repair.
You know. It's the one that lightens your wallet by
<BR>several K. </FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_8c.1c32359.27a8f329_boundary--
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:58:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TT with automatic
*heh*
Fine piece of work there..darn
Getrag boys outdone themselves on that one.
So much art there..everyone's
just gotta have 2 or 3 of em in the garage.
*heh*
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 09:31:43
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: F**king car thieves
Thanks all for the supportive
words.
The MX6 was recovered late last night with the front axle ripped
off.
Obviously the morons finally figured out that it wasn't the 2.5 V6 that
the rest
of the world gets but infact a 2.0 V6 4ws that only Japan gets and
decided to
use it as a joyrider car instead.
Anyone got a list of
parts for under the steering column?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:14:33
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
I understand that. Your point is
well-taken. However, in most of my track
sessions I have a
student/senior instructor/passenger in the car.
Since my son and I
have Ground Control adjustable ride height suspension, we
were considering
adjusting corner weights. Again, any static, unloaded
alignment is a
ways off from the way the car is on the track. We were
thinking we
would just try to get the car close to being neutral. Of
course, even
the CG changes as you drive the car, as you use up fuel, the CG
gets lower (I
believe). Adding the driver changes the CG, and then adding a
passenger
changes it again. Since there are more left turns than right,
some
people adjust the weight to the left since to compensate for the
weight
transfer to the right on a lefthand turn. I think if the car is
corner
weighted neutral, I am accomplishing that by sitting my fat butt in
the
driver's seat.
I dunno - you guys have any more words of wisdom on
alignment and corner
weighting?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:24 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
>
Cc: 'Trent'; Team 3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
>
> > specified for our car. I believe it's more important to have
the same
> > amount of negative camber between left and right wheels
than to have the
> > same amount between front and rear. We are
not experiencing any
> abnormal
> > tire wear. In fact, our
track tires are outlasting many other drivers,
> and
> > are
wearing very evenly.
> ---
>
> Thats not totally
true.
>
> Without your body weight in the car (as it would when you
are driving) you
> impact camber by usually .2d from left to right, this
also affects toe-in
> as well.
>
> Any static unloaded
alignment you get, is a ways off what it -should- be
> as its being raced
on a track.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 06:25:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum
And for our 3S turbo cars, the "largest"
(smallest?) restriction in
the exhaust is that 1" diameter hole all the
exhaust from 3 cylinders
must go through *before* it gets to the turbine
wheel. :)
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<Kdog109SD@aol.com>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 30, 2001 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intake
Plenum
<snip>
The largest restriction in your intake is your
valve..anything ya do
before that outside of larger ICs doesnt buy you a
thing in a
turbo
environment.
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of
Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:13:56
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear Camber Settings
I wouldn't put this information into the words of
wisdom category, but the setting of corner weights is more
correctly
called cross weight biasing. By adjusting corner height you can
change the cross corner weights ---- if you lower the
right front you
increase the weight on the left front and the right rear. You can't adjust side
to side or front to back
without actually moving weight around --- fuel tank
full or empty moves weight distribution front to back for example.
Corner
weights are usually set with ½ tank of fuel and the driver in the car, for road
tracks the car is usually set up
with all corners equal. But as Chuck
said a several conditions can upset the balance of the car ---- according to
Ground
Control even excessive caster changes the weight bias on
turn-in.
I guess the most bestest way would be to set the weights with
you in the car then have the alignment done with you in the
car, then don't
allow no riff raff along.
Jim
Berry
========================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Since my son and I have Ground Control adjustable ride height suspension,
we
> were considering adjusting corner weights. Again, any static,
unloaded
> alignment is a ways off from the way the car is on the
track
<snip>
> I dunno - you guys have any more words of wisdom
on alignment and corner
> weighting?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 11:20:25
-0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
Shootout July 2001--BEEE THEEERRE!
OK here is the official dates, SIX
MONTHS ahead of time so everybody
will have enough time to set their
schedules!
2001 DSM Shootout (has class for 3000GT /
Stealths)
Norwalk, Ohio Raceway Park
July 20, 21 and 22
Sponsored by
Buschur Racing (etc)
Friday = DSM/3000GT
Shootout
Saturday = Car Show and Autocross Event
Sunday = ALL-IMPORT
shootout (not sure if it is IDRC, NIRA or whomever)
Buschur Racing's
website is http://www.buschurracing.com/
but it
doesn't yet have info; I just got the dates.
There is a tech session held
over pizza or dinner; sometimes a cookout,
I don't
know ALL the details as
they are likely evolving yet, but we can start
planning.
Get hotel room
early, as they start filling up; we stay at the
Econolodge; there is
a
Super 8 etc there too...
This event is the PREMIER event for
Mitsubishi/DSM vehicles in the USA,
and
you get 3 race events on one
weekend so even if traveling far, is
worthwhile.
It is a GREAT
time! There are over 200 cars, many people, beautiful
dragstrip
and
the strip is prepped as well as any I've seen--very professional
track
crew.
We go in a group from Wisconsin; last year my buddy brought his 95
Supra
TT
(HKS twin ballbearing turbos etc, 11.00 @140 on street tires AT
the DSM
event
last year)...he HAD wondered if it would be a good
time/worth going, and
he can't
WAIT to go again this year!
As far
as shops, there are shops there from ALL across the country for
DSM's
and
they KNOW they gain FAR MORE in business from people able to see
the quality
of their work--and the RESULTS--than any loss due to missing
at most a
Thursday through Monday of one week in the year. There are
people there
from different COUNTRIES (and not just Canada/Mexico!)
I am told there
are some rivalries between some people and shops out
there :)
and many
have said "Settle it at the DSM Shootout 2001". I agree.
This
is not a one-shot deal, it is YEARLY-- and if one wins one year,
the
NEXT
year who knows? Competition improves the breed, so let's
all be there--
or, let's hear the excuses how it can't possibly be done
with SIX MONTHS
ADVANCE NOTICE. If a shop can't manage to make it
with THAT much
advance notice...or doesn't CARE enough to put out the
EFFORT,
how dedicated are they to our cars REALLY? Of course there
is
dedication to MONEY, and nothing wrong with that; this shows
dedication
to the CAR and the SPORT. That is my opinion. Some may
disagree.
Last year we had a small but dedicated and enthusiastic group
of
3000GT/Stealth
people, and I know this year we'll grow in size.
The DSM's like us
there because
we provide some interesting/different
cars...and we are all "relatives
" :)
It will be an interesting
event, and allow many of us to meet in person
and
check each other's cars
out someplace OTHER than in front of a computer
screen in our
CUBBYHOLES! I suspect there will be records
broken
aplenty,
including my almost 4-year-old 10.81/128.44mph from
1997...many times
people are afraid to go because it puts equipment to the
test IN FRONT
OF
A CROWD, but I've gone every year I had a car
running since 97, and
even
went without car when I didn't have one
running. I broke my 94 there
last year
at the Import meet
:)
Jack Tertadian
1993 3000GT VR4 10.81 @128.44mph UNcorrected
in 1997, still the
quickest AND fastest despite years of talk
1994 3000GT
VR4 11.219 @ 124.63mph UNcorrected 6/2000 no NOS quickest
ET
I
don't usually pull out my records or put this stuff in my
signature--some do;
but for
this announcement I am pulling rank
;)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:08:59
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum (whole path !)
>And for our 3S turbo cars,
the "largest" (smallest?) restriction in
>the exhaust is that 1" diameter
hole all the exhaust from 3 cylinders
>must go through *before* it gets to
the turbine wheel. :)
I understand the smiley Jeff ;-)
Well, the
exhaust path is not critical before the turbo as one should know
what keeps
the turbine wheel turning. It's the pressure difference between
before and
after the turbine ! So the higher the pressure before and the
lower the
exhaust backpressure after the wheel the better the efficiency of
the system
! This is why an open exhaust after the turbine outlet is what
is the best
for high rpm while some backpressure should be there on the low
rpm basis
where the turbine doesn't act as a big restriction and the engine
produces
more tourque due to the backpressure.
>The largest restriction in your
intake is your valve..anything ya do
>before that outside of larger ICs
doesnt buy you a thing in a turbo
>environment.
There are many
restrictions that can be found in the path but this is how
an engine is
built. Some parts are designed for mass-production and
improvement can be
found. Just have a look on my project page and one can
see the exhaust path
after the valve and how it can be improved to prevent
restrictions and
especially turbulences (our biggest emeny outside the
mufflers)
After
the turbos, every bend in the piping acts like a restriction and the
IC
itselfs is the biggest as it acts as a slow-down for the air stream.
Correctly said, the stream stays the same but pressure is slower built up
on a large intercooler.
Then there is a trhottle-body with the plate that
is a restriction again
that causes heavy turbulence.
Now enter the intake
plenum and find the rear core that allows to keep
enough pressure to provide
a balanced feed to the cylinders. Of course,
this would be much better with
a central or double feed.
Then the entries of the runners, not the best thing
in the world but how
would one do it better for the mass ?
The runners
lead to the intake manifold where we find a thin gasket that is
larger than
the openings. Gasket matching the 6 channels helps in
increasing the amount
of air traveling per minute. Increasing the size of
the runners would
increase the amount too but the same time the speed is
decreased what would
result in an necessity to change the lenght of the
runners too !
Finally
the path leads to the intake valves, where still a good turbulence
free
mixture flow is needed.
The stock injectors do help in this case as they do
have a dual spray
pattern. No larger injector does this and therefore is not
optimal as it
sprays to the wall between the valves. Work on this part for
the increased
pressure and amount of mixture. It should be machined to get
the edge more
far away from the injector. This is also due to the fact that
most
injectors are longer at their nozzle and do create more turbulence than
expected.
Finally the path to the valves is now optimized and the valve
design gives
the intake stream the necessary swirl to provide an optimal
filling of the
chamber. This can only be provided by a good fast stream with
a high
velocity sent above the shape of the valve body.
For the outlet
speed is also interesting, as the chamber should be
evaporated as fast as
possible. The exhaust manifold then doesn't play a
big rule, at least not in
our cars, as the turbine housing is what acts as
the biggest restriction.
Before the turbine housing the pressure gets
increased and pushes against
the turbine wheel. The wheel then turns and
the exhaust gases speed up in
their velocity. The smaller diameter to the
turbine increases this while
pressure stays the same or even increases due
to the increasing rpm. But if
pressure becomes too high, the temperature
quickly rises and hits back into
the chamber causing a lean situation...
what leads to detonation. This can
be seen on high EGT as an example. now,
the exhaust manifold can be designed
in many different ways, Kenne Bells
"Maximum Boost" gives a good description
in that case.
Finally, if one does a modification to the intake or
exhaust he always
should do the whole path because onyl the combination of
these rules. So it
isn't necessary to improve the exhaust part when there is
no more mixture
that can be filled in !
Happy
porting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 10:25:22
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
WIden the front track of the car 1/2"
total, and watchc yer times drop.
The car has a huge amount of understeer
built in because the front is
narrower.
On Wed, 31 Jan 2001, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
> I understand that. Your point is well-taken.
However, in most of my track
> sessions I have a student/senior
instructor/passenger in the car.
>
> Since my son and I have
Ground Control adjustable ride height suspension, we
> were considering
adjusting corner weights. Again, any static, unloaded
> alignment is
a ways off from the way the car is on the track. We were
> thinking
we would just try to get the car close to being neutral. Of
>
course, even the CG changes as you drive the car, as you use up fuel, the
CG
> gets lower (I believe). Adding the driver changes the CG, and
then adding a
> passenger changes it again. Since there are more
left turns than right,
> some people adjust the weight to the left since
to compensate for the weight
> transfer to the right on a lefthand turn. I
think if the car is corner
> weighted neutral, I am accomplishing that by
sitting my fat butt in the
> driver's seat.
>
> I dunno - you
guys have any more words of wisdom on alignment and corner
>
weighting?
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:24 PM
> > To: Willis, Charles
E.
> > Cc: 'Trent'; Team 3S
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear
Camber Settings
> >
> > > specified for our car. I
believe it's more important to have the same
> > > amount of
negative camber between left and right wheels than to have the
> > >
same amount between front and rear. We are not experiencing any
>
> abnormal
> > > tire wear. In fact, our track tires are
outlasting many other drivers,
> > and
> > > are wearing
very evenly.
> > ---
> >
> > Thats not totally
true.
> >
> > Without your body weight in the car (as it
would when you are driving) you
> > impact camber by usually .2d from
left to right, this also affects toe-in
> > as well.
> >
> > Any static unloaded alignment you get, is a ways off what it
-should- be
> > as its being raced on a track.
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 10:26:46
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum
True..but thats a good design on the stock
turbo..
Keeps velocities high, spins turbo better.
Good flow for a
larger turbo..not really.
On Wed, 31 Jan 2001, Jeff Lucius
wrote:
> And for our 3S turbo cars, the "largest" (smallest?)
restriction in
> the exhaust is that 1" diameter hole all the exhaust from
3 cylinders
> must go through *before* it gets to the turbine wheel.
:)
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: <Kdog109SD@aol.com>
> Cc:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 8:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Intake
Plenum
>
> <snip>
>
> The largest restriction in
your intake is your valve..anything ya do
> before that outside of larger
ICs doesnt buy you a thing in a turbo
> environment.
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do
You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of
Products.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 12:44:21
-0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
SHOOTOUT 2001 -- REGISTER!
If we have enough cars committed beforehand,
we can see how many
nonturbos will be there and hopefully separate a
class. Last year I had
to personally beg plead argue convince Dave
Buschur to give us any race
class at all because we didn't get together as a
group early enough, and
I got us one. This year we will have more, and
my HOPE would be for a
turbo class and a nonturbo class.
Don't worry
too much about number of classes; the idea here is not so
much to WIN, but to
SHOW and BE THERE with comrades. If we all go in
planning to either win
a class or be upset, everybody but one or two end
up disappointed, and that
is BUNK. I don't go expecting to win; just go
to BE there, race, let
the chips fall where they may...but MAINLY enjoy
the EVENT, the CARS and the
PEOPLE!
We should have a post section in "Track" section of 3SI
at
http://64.39.19.113/
with :
1)WHO
you are
2)WHAT car you have/what Shop associated with
3)HOW MANY coming
with you
4)WHERE you're from
5)WHAT HOTEL you're staying at
6)EMail
address
1) Jack Tertadian
2) 1994 3000GT VR4, Atomic Motorsports
:)
3) 1-2 other 3000's, group of ~10-15 people incl. DSM's and Supra
4)
Milwaukee Wisconsin area
5) Econolodge (have 3 rooms)
6) xwing@execpc.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 12:56:32
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
This is the spacer thing, yeah?
That would be 1/4" spacers on each side.
We believe that the understeer
was reduced upon lowering the car 3/4" from
stock ride height. Is this
just fantasy on our part? The steering is MUCH
more responsive. I don't
think this is an effect of the stiffer springs
because the change is in the
initial turn in, rather than later when weight
transfers during the
turn.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 12:25 PM
> To: Willis, Charles
E.
> Cc: 'Trent'; Team 3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber
Settings
>
> WIden the front track of the car 1/2" total, and
watchc yer times drop.
>
> The car has a huge amount of understeer
built in because the front is
> narrower.
>
> On Wed, 31 Jan
2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> > I understand that. Your
point is well-taken. However, in most of my
> track
> >
sessions I have a student/senior instructor/passenger in the car.
>
>
> > Since my son and I have Ground Control adjustable ride
height
> suspension, we
> > were considering adjusting corner
weights. Again, any static, unloaded
> > alignment is a ways off
from the way the car is on the track. We were
> > thinking we
would just try to get the car close to being neutral. Of
> >
course, even the CG changes as you drive the car, as you use up fuel,
>
the CG
> > gets lower (I believe). Adding the driver changes the
CG, and then
> adding a
> > passenger changes it again.
Since there are more left turns than right,
> > some people adjust the
weight to the left since to compensate for the
> weight
> >
transfer to the right on a lefthand turn. I think if the car is corner
>
> weighted neutral, I am accomplishing that by sitting my fat butt in
the
> > driver's seat.
> >
> > I dunno - you guys
have any more words of wisdom on alignment and corner
> >
weighting?
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >
> -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:24 PM
> > > To: Willis,
Charles E.
> > > Cc: 'Trent'; Team 3S
> > > Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
> > >
> > > > specified
for our car. I believe it's more important to have the
>
same
> > > > amount of negative camber between left and right
wheels than to have
> the
> > > > same amount between front
and rear. We are not experiencing any
> > > abnormal
>
> > > tire wear. In fact, our track tires are outlasting many
other
> drivers,
> > > and
> > > > are wearing
very evenly.
> > > ---
> > >
> > > Thats
not totally true.
> > >
> > > Without your body weight
in the car (as it would when you are driving)
> you
> > >
impact camber by usually .2d from left to right, this also affects
>
toe-in
> > > as well.
> > >
> > > Any
static unloaded alignment you get, is a ways off what it -should-
>
be
> > > as its being raced on a track.
> >
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 12:58:43
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
Fantasy..what you got was less roll and
more control in a turn.
The still has a 1/2" narrow front track, which
will tend to push a
lot...esp as you want to accelerate thru a turn (which
AWD excels in)
On Wed, 31 Jan 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
This is the spacer thing, yeah? That would be 1/4" spacers on each
side.
>
> We believe that the understeer was reduced upon lowering
the car 3/4" from
> stock ride height. Is this just fantasy on our
part? The steering is MUCH
> more responsive. I don't think this is
an effect of the stiffer springs
> because the change is in the initial
turn in, rather than later when weight
> transfers during the
turn.
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 12:25 PM
> > To: Willis, Charles
E.
> > Cc: 'Trent'; Team 3S
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear
Camber Settings
> >
> > WIden the front track of the car 1/2"
total, and watchc yer times drop.
> >
> > The car has a huge
amount of understeer built in because the front is
> >
narrower.
> >
> > On Wed, 31 Jan 2001, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> >
> > > I understand that. Your point is
well-taken. However, in most of my
> > track
> > >
sessions I have a student/senior instructor/passenger in the car.
>
> >
> > > Since my son and I have Ground Control adjustable
ride height
> > suspension, we
> > > were considering
adjusting corner weights. Again, any static, unloaded
> > >
alignment is a ways off from the way the car is on the track. We
were
> > > thinking we would just try to get the car close to being
neutral. Of
> > > course, even the CG changes as you drive the
car, as you use up fuel,
> > the CG
> > > gets lower (I
believe). Adding the driver changes the CG, and then
> > adding
a
> > > passenger changes it again. Since there are more left
turns than right,
> > > some people adjust the weight to the left
since to compensate for the
> > weight
> > > transfer to
the right on a lefthand turn. I think if the car is corner
> > >
weighted neutral, I am accomplishing that by sitting my fat butt in the
>
> > driver's seat.
> > >
> > > I dunno - you guys
have any more words of wisdom on alignment and corner
> > >
weighting?
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From:
Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:24 PM
> > > >
To: Willis, Charles E.
> > > > Cc: 'Trent'; Team 3S
> >
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
> > > >
> > > > > specified for our car. I believe it's more
important to have the
> > same
> > > > > amount of
negative camber between left and right wheels than to have
> >
the
> > > > > same amount between front and rear. We are
not experiencing any
> > > > abnormal
> > > > >
tire wear. In fact, our track tires are outlasting many other
> >
drivers,
> > > > and
> > > > > are wearing very
evenly.
> > > > ---
> > > >
> > >
> Thats not totally true.
> > > >
> > > >
Without your body weight in the car (as it would when you are driving)
>
> you
> > > > impact camber by usually .2d from left to right,
this also affects
> > toe-in
> > > > as well.
>
> > >
> > > > Any static unloaded alignment you get, is
a ways off what it -should-
> > be
> > > > as its being
raced on a track.
> > >
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 15:14:46
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
At 12:58 PM 1/31/01 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Fantasy..what you got was less roll and more control in a
turn.
>The still has a 1/2" narrow front track, which will tend to push
a
>lot...esp as you want to accelerate thru a turn (which AWD excels
in)
>
>> This is the spacer thing, yeah? That would be 1/4"
spacers on each side.
>>
That's easy for you to say, Geoff. You
have YOUR spacers, which you got at
a speed shop in Tulsa or someplace like
that. Ever since you brought this
up six months ago, I've been looking on and
off for a set of 1/4 in.
spacers and 1/4 in. longer studs to no avail. Every
potential supplier
either doesn't know what I'm talking about, doesn't have
the parts, or
wants to know dimensions and part numbers. If I take my spare
studs to the
local NASCAR speed shop, they look at me like I'm crazy.
If somebody would tell me where I can buy spacers, studs, and
appropriate
open-head lug nuts, I'll order them in a New York
minute.
Rich/old poop
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 13:38:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
Merritt: I gave you thier number,
and a name to ask for.
What did he say?
You need to find a better
speed-shop than Midas for the studs and spacers.
On Wed, 31 Jan 2001,
Merritt wrote:
> At 12:58 PM 1/31/01 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
> >Fantasy..what you got was less roll and more control in a
turn.
> >The still has a 1/2" narrow front track, which will tend to
push a
> >lot...esp as you want to accelerate thru a turn (which AWD
excels in)
> >
> >> This is the spacer thing, yeah?
That would be 1/4" spacers on each side.
> >>
> That's easy
for you to say, Geoff. You have YOUR spacers, which you got at
> a speed
shop in Tulsa or someplace like that. Ever since you brought this
> up six
months ago, I've been looking on and off for a set of 1/4 in.
> spacers
and 1/4 in. longer studs to no avail. Every potential supplier
> either
doesn't know what I'm talking about, doesn't have the parts, or
> wants to
know dimensions and part numbers. If I take my spare studs to the
> local
NASCAR speed shop, they look at me like I'm crazy.
>
> If somebody
would tell me where I can buy spacers, studs, and appropriate
> open-head
lug nuts, I'll order them in a New York minute.
> Rich/old poop
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 13:46:24
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
please help!! drove into work this
morning and thought the engine note was a
little different and a little down
on power maybe. when i got into work
lifted the hood and noted a funny
ticking noise around the head somewhere.
sounds like tappets or something.
the noise had been there previously but
not as load. i assumed fuel pump and
left it to die of natural causes as car
is under warranty. i am extremely
nervous now! i have raced cars and
remember one of my race engines doing
this before, ie drop in power, and
then it ran a bearing..painful! anyway
oil pressure is fine per the dash
gauge but i'm worried there may be
something more serious...any suggestions?
ian
92 3000gt
TT
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 14:50:08
-0700
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <foglem@t-three.com>
Subject: Team3S:
91 VR4 for sale
This will be my final post to the list so return messages
send to:
foglem@t-three.com.
I am
getting rid of my 91 VR4 with 101,000 miles. It runs great, no
mods... If
interested contact me... Thanks and goodbye to the list!
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 13:55:14
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
Hi Rich,
> If somebody would
tell me where I can buy spacers, studs, and appropriate
> open-head lug
nuts, I'll order them in a New York minute.
I've given you this
information before, but here it is again. What you want is
the 15mm
(1/2 ") H&R spacer & long lug kit as seen here at
http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/itm02244.htm.
I believe one of the 3SI
parts specialists sells these kits at a discount, so
make some calls or send
emails. Even at the $120 price, it is not too
expensive.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 14:57:56
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
+> At 12:58 PM 1/31/01 -0800, Geoff
Mohler wrote:
+> >Fantasy..what you got was less roll and more control
in a turn.
+> >The still has a 1/2" narrow front track, which will tend
to push a
+> >lot...esp as you want to accelerate thru a turn (which
AWD excels in)
+> >
+> >> This is the spacer thing,
yeah? That would be 1/4" spacers on each side.
+> >>
+>
That's easy for you to say, Geoff. You have YOUR spacers, which you got
at
+> a speed shop in Tulsa or someplace like that. Ever since you brought
this
+> up six months ago, I've been looking on and off for a set of 1/4
in.
+> spacers and 1/4 in. longer studs to no avail. Every potential
supplier
+> either doesn't know what I'm talking about, doesn't have the
parts, or
+> wants to know dimensions and part numbers. If I take my spare
studs to the
+> local NASCAR speed shop, they look at me like I'm crazy.
+>
+> If somebody would tell me where I can buy spacers, studs,
and appropriate
+> open-head lug nuts, I'll order them in a New York
minute.
+> Rich/old poop
+>
+> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
I've been interested in this as well, but for an additionalt
reason.. I
bought a set of 1st gen VR4 wheels with awesome snows, but
as many have
attested (and I will too now..) they don't fit over 2nd gen
calipers..
all that would be necessary to clear is interestingly enough,
about
1/4"..
check this out: http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/itmidx23.htm
5mm,
15mm, and 25mm spacers..
fyi, you can order the 15mm ones from
Carparts.com, and if you can find
a current coupon, they're about $80
shipped.. that's what I did, but now
I'm trying to decide if that's
just too wide.. unfortunately, the 5mm
ones just won't quite do what I
need.. I was hoping that the spacers
would be a win-win in that I
could use the other wheels, and also have
better handling when I have the
18's on..
anyone?
Dave
=======================
= 95
Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:01:38
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
>I've given you this information
before, but here it is again. What you
want is
>the 15mm (1/2 ")
H&R spacer & long lug kit as seen here at
>http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/itm02244.htm.
I believe one of the 3SI
>parts specialists sells these kits at a
discount, so make some calls or send
>emails. Even at the $120
price, it is not too expensive.
>
Ken:
I have never seen this
before.
A few months ago you were tracking these down, but I never learned
the
outcome.
Guess I better order me a set before they sell out.
Anybody know the 3SI parts specialists Ken's talking
about?
Thanks
Rich
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:19:30
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
so how does this work? do I have
to remove the studs from the hub/bearing
assembly on the front wheels to
attach these things?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave
Monarchi [SMTP:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 3:58 PM
> To: Merritt
> Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
>
>
>
>
+> At 12:58 PM 1/31/01 -0800, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> +>
>Fantasy..what you got was less roll and more control in a turn.
>
+> >The still has a 1/2" narrow front track, which will tend to push
a
> +> >lot...esp as you want to accelerate thru a turn (which AWD
excels in)
> +> >
> +> >> This is the spacer thing,
yeah? That would be 1/4" spacers on each
> side.
> +>
>>
> +> That's easy for you to say, Geoff. You have YOUR
spacers, which you got
> at
> +> a speed shop in Tulsa or
someplace like that. Ever since you brought
> this
> +> up six
months ago, I've been looking on and off for a set of 1/4 in.
> +>
spacers and 1/4 in. longer studs to no avail. Every potential supplier
>
+> either doesn't know what I'm talking about, doesn't have the parts,
or
> +> wants to know dimensions and part numbers. If I take my spare
studs to
> the
> +> local NASCAR speed shop, they look at me like
I'm crazy.
> +>
> +> If somebody would tell me where I can
buy spacers, studs, and
> appropriate
> +> open-head lug nuts,
I'll order them in a New York minute.
> +> Rich/old poop
> +>
> +> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> I've been interested in this as well, but for an
additionalt reason.. I
> bought a set of 1st gen VR4 wheels with
awesome snows, but as many have
> attested (and I will too now..) they
don't fit over 2nd gen calipers..
>
> all that would be necessary
to clear is interestingly enough, about
> 1/4"..
>
> check
this out: http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/itmidx23.htm
>
> 5mm, 15mm, and 25mm spacers..
>
> fyi, you can order the
15mm ones from Carparts.com, and if you can find
> a current coupon,
they're about $80 shipped.. that's what I did, but now
> I'm trying
to decide if that's just too wide.. unfortunately, the 5mm
> ones
just won't quite do what I need.. I was hoping that the
spacers
> would be a win-win in that I could use the other wheels, and
also have
> better handling when I have the 18's on..
>
>
anyone?
>
>
> Dave
> =======================
> =
95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
> = 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
> = There is no
spoon.. =
> =======================
>
>
> ***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:17:21
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
At 04:19 PM 1/31/01 -0600, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
>so how does this work? do I have to remove the
studs from the hub/bearing
>assembly on the front wheels to attach these
things?
>
>At 04:19 PM 1/31/01 -0600, you wrote:
>so how does
this work? do I have to remove the studs from the
hub/bearing
>assembly on the front wheels to attach these
things?
Yes, because you will be replacing the 10 stock studs with 15mm
longer
studs. I've broken and replaced enough studs to know that it is not
very
difficult if you have the proper tools. I just let Denny's
Mufflers do it
because they can do in 15 minutes what would take me
hours.
Rich
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 15:22:05
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
H&R wheel spacer kit (was: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber
Settings)
yup. have to remove the hub assembly to replace the
studs. I got all
the way to that point before I realized the nuts were
seriously frozen
on. there's no room to get a box end or socket on them
in place, and
my craftsman openend wrench was actually spreading the "jaws"
and
starting to round the nut. unless someone knows of a
trick..
that's why I'm posing the "too wide?" question before I take
another
whack at it.
Dave
=======================
=
95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
+> so how does this work? do I have
to remove the studs from the hub/bearing
+> assembly on the front wheels
to attach these things?
+>
<snip>
+> > I've been
interested in this as well, but for an additionalt reason.. I
+>
> bought a set of 1st gen VR4 wheels with awesome snows, but as many
have
+> > attested (and I will too now..) they don't fit over 2nd gen
calipers..
+> >
+> > all that would be necessary to clear is
interestingly enough, about
+> > 1/4"..
+> >
+> >
check this out: http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/itmidx23.htm
+>
>
+> > 5mm, 15mm, and 25mm spacers..
+> >
+> >
fyi, you can order the 15mm ones from Carparts.com, and if you can find
+>
> a current coupon, they're about $80 shipped.. that's what I did, but
now
+> > I'm trying to decide if that's just too wide..
unfortunately, the 5mm
+> > ones just won't quite do what I
need.. I was hoping that the spacers
+> > would be a
win-win in that I could use the other wheels, and also have
+> > better
handling when I have the 18's on..
+> >
+> >
anyone?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:30:12
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: H&R wheel spacer kit (was: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber
Settings)
At 03:22 PM 1/31/01 -0700, Dave Monarchi
wrote:
>
>
>yup. have to remove the hub assembly to
replace the studs.
Nah. Just pry it out a little, just enough for the
stud to get in and out.
Rich
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:44:58
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: H&R wheel spacer kit (was: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
)
I JUST WENT THROUGH THIS REPLACING THE HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLIES ON MY
'93!
FOOEY! Why didn't I get some spacers before that?
Okay,
here's the trick. There IS room to get the box end wrench around
the
nuts that hold the assembly on, but you may have to push on the green
metal
bell shaped housing that protects the speed encoder ring on the axle to
move
it a little inboard. Then you have to WHALE AWAY on the wrench
with a
mallet to get it to move. Oh, yeah, penetrating oil or WD40 on
the thing
helps. That is supposed to be torqued at like 76 ft-lbs, but
there is no
way.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Dave Monarchi [SMTP:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 4:22 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
>
Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: H&R wheel spacer kit (was: Re: Team3S: Rear
Camber
> Settings)
>
>
>
> yup. have to
remove the hub assembly to replace the studs. I got all
> the way to
that point before I realized the nuts were seriously frozen
> on.
there's no room to get a box end or socket on them in place, and
> my
craftsman openend wrench was actually spreading the "jaws" and
> starting
to round the nut. unless someone knows of a trick..
>
>
that's why I'm posing the "too wide?" question before I take another
>
whack at it.
>
>
> Dave
>
=======================
> = 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
> = 87 Mica Red
GTI G60 =
> = There is no spoon.. =
>
=======================
>
> +> so how does this work? do I
have to remove the studs from the
> hub/bearing
> +> assembly on
the front wheels to attach these things?
> +>
>
<snip>
>
> +> > I've been interested in this as well,
but for an additionalt reason..
> I
> +> > bought a set of 1st
gen VR4 wheels with awesome snows, but as many
> have
> +> >
attested (and I will too now..) they don't fit over 2nd gen
>
calipers..
> +> >
> +> > all that would be necessary to
clear is interestingly enough, about
> +> > 1/4"..
> +>
>
> +> > check this out: http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/itmidx23.htm
>
+> >
> +> > 5mm, 15mm, and 25mm spacers..
> +> >
> +> > fyi, you can order the 15mm ones from Carparts.com, and if
you can
> find
> +> > a current coupon, they're about $80
shipped.. that's what I did, but
> now
> +> > I'm trying
to decide if that's just too wide.. unfortunately, the
> 5mm
>
+> > ones just won't quite do what I need.. I was hoping that
the
> spacers
> +> > would be a win-win in that I could use
the other wheels, and also
> have
> +> > better handling when
I have the 18's on..
> +> >
> +> >
anyone?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 15:57:43
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
i initially thought it was
something to do with turbo because its only
noticeable (loss in power)
during the boost. i can only hear the ticking
noise at idle. Not as
load as tappets though. any ideas?
thanks
Ian
>From: Merlin916@aol.com
>To: sween3000gt@hotmail.com
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
>Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001
18:47:06 EST
>
> Sounds like it might be valve
tap, but it would have to be pretty
>drastic
>to give you a
noticeable loss in
power.
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Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 01:04:37
+0100
From: Syncom <syncom@mail.digitel2002.hu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: F**king car thieves
>
> Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001
19:58:02 +0000
> From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: F**king car thieves
>
> Miracle of miracles.
My GTO has been found. It was bing readied for shipping
> across the water
to the UK but they made the mistake of parking it up where
> it was
visible and a squad car happened to be passing and remembered the
>
detailed description I gave of it.
>
> Lesson learned to be VERY
descriptive when reporting to the police.
>
> Damage done
is:
> Drivers lock and handle gone
> Steering column cover and
ignition etc gone
> Stereo gone (but not multi-changer under the floor in
the boot/trunk)
> HKS EVC-IV gone but none of the cables for it (clever
morons)
> Indicator stalk bent beyond repair
>
> I have
£5,000 worth of claim credit without effecting my no-claims bonus so
>
I'll get it all done properly but don't mind hitting the breakers yards
for
> the plastics under the steering end of things and stuff.
>
> Thanks for all the support. My brain pulse has reduced considerably.
Just
> need to keep the fingers crossed that the Girlfriends MX6 appears
now. The
> police in the area weren't aware that 2 were stolen in the same
visit so
> they have gone back to the are they found mine to check
again.
>
Now that's what I call luck. I'm happy for you. Since car
thefts are also
a danger in our country, I had a tracker system put into my
'95 SL. It
cost about 1700-1800 USD but I can take it with me into any future
car I buy,
and it's really amazing what it's capable of (detailed telemetry,
etc.) You
might want to check out such a system, too. I can only heartily
recommend.
Hope they'll also find the MX. In tonights news I heard police
shot and killed
a car thief while he tried to escape in our country. Hell, I
was happy.
Best wishes,
Zsolt Kovacs
Budapest,
Hungary
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:42:44
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
dont think its the computer,
definetly coming from the engine
compartment..probably the head. How
accurate is the oil pressure gauge on
the dash? i am worried that oil
pressure might be low so dont want to do any
long term damage. also i only
bought the car recently so havent done oil
change. i cant really read the
dipstick so i'd like to put some more oil in
to be sure. will i do damage if
i add synthetic (Mobil 1) to mineral or are
all these motors running
synthetic (92 TT)
thanks
Ian
>From: "noble" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
>To: "ian
sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
>Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001
20:00:00 -0800
>
>According to DSM's, which carry similar
components, this could
>be the computer's capacitors giving
out.
>Apparently, the clicking is the computer resetting itself and the
fuel pump
>relay ultra fast.
>
>The sound is kinda noticeable
around the centre
console.
>
>Best,
>Noble
>
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: ian sweeney <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
>To:
<Merlin916@aol.com>
>Cc:
<team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Wednesday, January 31, 2001 3:57 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: funny ticking
noise under hood
>
>
> > i initially thought it was
something to do with turbo because its only
> > noticeable (loss in
power) during the boost. i can only hear the
>ticking
> >
noise at idle. Not as load as tappets though. any ideas?
> >
>
> thanks
> > Ian
> >
> >
> > >From: Merlin916@aol.com
> > >To: sween3000gt@hotmail.com
> >
>Subject: Re: Team3S: funny ticking noise under hood
> > >Date:
Wed, 31 Jan 2001 18:47:06 EST
> > >
> >
> Sounds like it might be valve tap, but it would have to
be pretty
> > >drastic
> > >to give you a noticeable
loss in power.
> >
> >
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> >
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End of team3s V1
#393
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