team3s
Tuesday, January 30
2001 Volume 01
: Number
392
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:57:52 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rear Camber Settings
Try and get -1 out of the rear, but be warned,
without some modification it
may be difficult to get that much. This
will cover aggressive/sporty street
driving and will be a decent choice for
the -1.25 on the front. I'd suggest
a bit more up front actually, like
-1.5 or so, but you're in the ballpark.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> All,
>
> Can
anyone recommend a rear camber setting. I've set the fronts
> to
-1.25.
> Should the rear match or would a different setting be of use
for
> open track
> events.
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 22:38:09
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch job
I just had mine done when they put in the rebuilt
tranny (at 51k miles) and
the clutch costs $260 (as quoted from the dealer
but maybe less from
Tallahassee Mitsu) and I can give the total breakdown to
anyone who emails
me privately or send it to the list.
Unfortunately,
I can not tell what parts went with the tranny and which went
with the
clutch. Those pesky things like seals, gaskets, etc. that can be
thrown
in just about anywhere.
But $260 in parts plus about $500 in labor to get
to it. The dealer
actually said that in order to get to any part of the
clutch you have to
take the tranny out (or some godforsaken procedure) which
is about 6 hours
of labor. Take it for what it is worth ... a slipping
clutch is not an easy
change.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
1995
VR-4 at 51k miles with a rebuilt tranny and a new clutch
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Desert Fox [mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent:
Monday, January 29, 2001 19:43
With the list mentioning clutch slippage,
how much should I expect to pay
for a clutch job?
Paul/.
95 black
3000GT VR-4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:53:16
EST
From: DKoenigs@aol.com
Subject:
Team3S: TT with automatic
-
--part1_61.aeeb5a5.27a7b0cc_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hey guys,
A
few months ago someone posted that they had blown their NA engine and had
purchased a used TT to install rather than fix the engine. If I
remember
correctly you had an automatic transmission. Did you ever
complete this
project. I'm thinking of doing the same thing and am
interested to learn
from your experience.
Does anyone else
know if the TT block will bolt up to the automatic? How
about any
other problems you think I may run into.
Thanks for your time. You
can e-mail me at dkoenigs@aol.com
Don
-
--part1_61.aeeb5a5.27a7b0cc_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Hey guys,
<BR>
<BR>A few months ago someone posted
that they had blown their NA engine and had
<BR>purchased a used TT to
install rather than fix the engine. If I remember
<BR>correctly you had an automatic transmission. Did you
ever complete this
<BR>project. I'm thinking of doing the
same thing and am interested to learn
<BR>from your experience.
<BR>
<BR>Does anyone else know if the TT block will
bolt up to the automatic? How
<BR>about any other problems
you think I may run into.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks for your time.
You can e-mail me at dkoenigs@aol.com
<BR>
<BR>Don
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_61.aeeb5a5.27a7b0cc_boundary--
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 02:28:58
EST
From: Kdog109SD@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Intake
Plenum
Hi Everyone,
I have a 95 3000gt
DOCH, and I wanted to extract as much power out of
the engine that I
can. Well I was just wondering, which process is better
Extrude-Honning the intake Plenum, or should I get it ported and polished by
"professional" here in town? Also, I went to the Extrude-Hones
website, and
they had something about gasket matching. Is there any
place that sells
oversized gaskets (not sure if there is such a thing) for
the NA cars that I
can send with the Plenum so that way I can get it
"gasketmatched". Also when
I was searching the archives on the Team
3SI page, I saw some posts where the
throttlebody wouldn't fit the plenum
after it is been its been extrude-honed.
Is this really a
problem.........? I would appreciate all the help I could
get.
Thanks much,
Kunal S.
95 3KGT DOCH
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:38:18
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: F**king car thieves
Just woke up this morning to find 2 empty
spaces outside my house that
used to have my 1993 Japanese import VR4 and my
Mazda MX6.
What a wonderful sight to wake up to.
It's times like
these I wish we had your gun
laws.
FUUUUU******KKKKK
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
Ex-1993 VR4
Japanese Import
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:19:05
-0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Team3S: The end is near (VR4 update)
I *SHOULD* be getting my VR4 back
tomorrow. I had to let the dealer
take me to the cleaners or pay
another lump sum in towing fees and
then wait indefinately. Total
damage: $5K + tax (to be determined
when I pay). Let this be a
warning to any / all who buy a used car.
Just because the service records
are there, and you know the car was
taken care of, it does not mean that it
will not bite you in the butt
quickly. :(
I'm trying to look on
the bright side... Now I have a rebuilt top
engine, brand new lower
engine, and a new clutch / flywheel. Add in
the $1K that the dealer is
going to give me because he "feels sorry
for me" and I'm not doing too
bad. Now I have to decide if I want to
keep the car for a while (as was
my original plan) or drive it a few
months and let someone else endure the
pain of making it perfect.
It still needs a fair amount of
work. Rear active aero does not
work, driver's side door needs some
adjusting, needs a new shifter
boot, passenger side seat belt needs a bolt to
even work :(. All of
this I was going to take care of ASAP thanks to
the great deal I got
on the car, but now I am down an additional $4K and I
have no idea
when / if I will be able to get the car "perfect". So is
life. I
want to thank all of you guys for your help and advice on this
issue.
I do have another question: Will this "new" engine
need a break in
period? I am thinking I should take it easy for ~500
miles then
change the oil to synthetic and then actually start driving the
car.
Is this needed, or will I just be delaying the fun of fianlly
getting
to drive my VR4?
Now I have to decide:
Sell the
underpowered yet trouble free (except for the oil guage)
base coupe or keep
the troublesome VR4 and hope for the best.
ARRRGGHHH!!!
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle /
Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with a rebuilt engine / Green [for now...
maybe
forever])
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:54:19
-0500
From: "Me" <omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: F**king car thieves
My sympathies to you, I hope the bastards
that took your cars get caught,
and get what they
deserve.
Scotty
92 RT TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Gordon Tyrrell" <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
To:
"3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 30, 2001 5:38 AM
Subject: Team3S: F**king car
thieves
> Just woke up this morning to find 2 empty spaces outside
my house that
> used to have my 1993 Japanese import VR4 and my Mazda
MX6.
>
> What a wonderful sight to wake up to.
>
> It's
times like these I wish we had your gun laws.
>
>
FUUUUU******KKKKK
>
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> Ex-1993
VR4 Japanese Import
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:15:18
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
I am of the opinion that negative camber
is a good thing on the track. With
the Ground Control suspension that
my son and I run, there is a limit to the
amount of negative camber we can
get, but it is within the tolerance
specified for our car. I believe
it's more important to have the same
amount of negative camber between left
and right wheels than to have the
same amount between front and rear.
We are not experiencing any abnormal
tire wear. In fact, our track
tires are outlasting many other drivers, and
are wearing very
evenly.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Trent
[SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:19 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Rear Camber Settings
>
>
> All,
>
> Can anyone recommend a rear camber setting. I've set the
fronts to
> -1.25.
> Should the rear match or would a different
setting be of use for open
> track
> events.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
>
>
> Shop online
without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
>
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:24:02
-0600
From: "Craig Golema" <CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade
PREVIOUSLY...
<<snip>>
In that case, it looks like a '93 upgrade would require '94 rotors,
calipers,
AND wheels. That gets a little expensive.
<<snip>> If I
remember correctly from a test at one of the Gatherings,
The older 17" wheels
do not clear the 94+ calipers.
<<snip>> O.K. guys, I don't
want newer people getting confused here as far as which
rims fit what.
Its been discussed and tested by several people before. The
stock rims
on the 91-93 VR4s and Stealth Twin Turbos will NOT fit 94+ VR4s
and Twin
Turbos. Its that simple. If your not sure what is stock, look at
my wheel page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/wheels.html
NEW MESSAGE...
Sorry to bring this up again, but, here's the
deal. After heading home last night, I took some photos of my Stealth TT (94' -
Second Gen.). Now this is my third Stealth, 92' TT, 92' R/T and the 94' TT. I'll
admit, I'm not as sharp as I should be on the brakes...but after owning a few of
these wonderful cars and performing 60k Tune-ups, regular maint. and such
myself...I consider myself not mechanically challenged regarding them.
As
I said, this is my first Second Gen. Stealth and I honestly can't recall (from
memory) the appearance and style of the calipers/components of the other two.
So, I'm really perplexed! Below are five photos of my 94' TT with stock 93' TT
wheels. I purchased the car with these (the 93's) on it, but also had the stock
94's in their boxes. Can anyone tell me why stock 93' wheels fit on my 2nd Gen.
car and not others?
All systems function, including the ABS. I removed
both wheels from one side and noticed no spacers, etc. The car handles well and
drives like new. I don't think I'm crazy........
http://www.3si.org/upload/93oncar.jpg
Left Side of car
http://www.3si.org/upload/93left1.jpg
Front Left wheel
http://www.3si.org/upload/93left2.jpg
Rear Left wheel
http://www.3si.org/upload/93right1.jpg
Front Right wheel
http://www.3si.org/upload/93right2.jpg
Rear Right wheel
Thanx!
Craig
94 Twin Turbo
Custom 3"
exhaust
FIPK
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 09:21:36
-0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: water pump leak
I have been noticing a water leak due to our
wonderful "low water
sensor". I top it off about 2 cups every 3
days. I checked the hoses,
radiator, cap, etc. Last night I found
a nice puddle under the drivers
side of the engine. The puddle seems to
line up with the timing belt
cover.
Is there an easy way to
check by just removing the timing belt covers?
Anyone had similar
symptoms?
It is a '94 VR-4 with 105K miles. I won't drive it
until I find this
leak.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94
VR-4.
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:38:56
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: water pump leak
Sounds like the water pump. A puddle on
the passenger side would implicate
either the upper hose or the lower hose to
the radiator. Possibly someone
didn't change it out during the 60K
maintenance. The water pump itself is
not that expensive, but the labor
to replace it is close to the labor for
the timing belt replacement. You are
only 15K miles away from the 120K rerun
of the 60K maintenance. That's
about a grand including the water pump. How
long do you plan to keep
the car?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc
Jonathan Jacobs [SMTP:Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 8:22 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: water pump leak
>
> I have been noticing a water leak due
to our wonderful "low water
> sensor". I top it off about 2 cups
every 3 days. I checked the hoses,
> radiator, cap, etc. Last
night I found a nice puddle under the drivers
> side of the engine.
The puddle seems to line up with the timing belt
> cover.
>
> Is there an easy way to check by just removing the timing belt covers?
> Anyone had similar symptoms?
>
> It is a '94 VR-4
with 105K miles. I won't drive it until I find this
> leak.
>
>
> --
> Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4.
> xDSL
Hardware Development
> Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 09:45:06
EST
From: DKoenigs@aol.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TT with automatic
-
--part1_d1.1b865dc.27a82d72_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thanks for your
opinion, Steve. You may be right BUT; 1) I'm betting that no
one ever
thought a powerglide would hold 1000 HP+ behind a big block, 2) the
DSM guys
are running 400 HP+ (conservative for some) with automatics. Less
torque I know, but pretty big HP just the same, and 3) it doesn't sound like
the manual guys have what you would call a "bullet proof" drive train.
Hell,
I'll bet I can even buy parts to repair the auto.
Don
Hoping
someone has made this swap and will share info
-
--part1_d1.1b865dc.27a82d72_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Thanks for your opinion, Steve. You may be right BUT; 1) I'm
betting that no
<BR>one ever thought a powerglide would hold 1000 HP+
behind a big block, 2) the
<BR>DSM guys are running 400 HP+
(conservative for some) with automatics. Less
<BR>torque I
know, but pretty big HP just the same, and 3) it doesn't sound like
<BR>the manual guys have what you would call a "bullet proof" drive
train. Hell,
<BR>I'll bet I can even buy parts to repair the
auto.
<BR>
<BR>Don
<BR>Hoping someone has made this
swap and will share info </FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_d1.1b865dc.27a82d72_boundary--
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:57:46
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TT with automatic
The trouble with automatics on a road
course is that they tend to downshift
at inopportune moments, like in the
middle of a turn. This can be
disconcerting, at best. At worst,
it triggers a spin.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: DKoenigs@aol.com [SMTP:DKoenigs@aol.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, January 30, 2001 8:45 AM
> To: scooper@paradise.net.nz; DKoenigs@aol.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TT with automatic
>
> Thanks for your opinion,
Steve. You may be right BUT; 1) I'm betting that
> no
> one
ever thought a powerglide would hold 1000 HP+ behind a big block, 2)
> the
> DSM guys are running 400 HP+ (conservative for some) with
automatics.
> Less
> torque I know, but pretty big HP just the
same, and 3) it doesn't sound
> like
> the manual guys have what
you would call a "bullet proof" drive train.
> Hell,
> I'll bet I
can even buy parts to repair the auto.
>
> Don
> Hoping
someone has made this swap and will share info
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 15:04:35
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: F**king car thieves
I'm hoping it is recovered (although not
hopeful).
Police reckon they were scoping out and waiting until they had
a buyer for both
cars and then came to get them. The next door neighbour had
gone into her house
without even shutting her door on her BMW properly and
it's parked 4 feet from
the MX6 and wasn't touched.
Anyone up North or
in the UK it would be great if you could keep an eye out.
It's very
distinctive in that it's Dark metallic Grey (gunmetal I suppose)
with
matching Mitsubishi 5 Spoke 17" alloys. The Active Aero is broken, It
has this
weird dark glass in the rear 3/4 windows that has GTO in it that
glows when the
lights are on (odd thing that).
Seats are dark grey
leather with red GTO stitched into them.
License plate: 93 D
42017
Chassis No.: Z16A-0014069
Colour Code: H19
Pics on http://www.esatclear.ie/~gtyrrell/gto.htm
The
Mazda is also Japanese import. Black. Cloth interior. 4WS with
aftermarket
15" silver alloys (that look shit as it happens but came with the
car)
License plate: 92 W 1887
They were stolen together so might be
moved around together also.
I'll definitely be on about the security
thing when this blows over.
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
George Shaw wrote:
> Gordon
>
> Sorry to
hear the bastards got you. I will keep an eye open in the North and
> pass
the word around the clubs. I sell a range of devices which DO stop
>
anyone getting any car stolen, I know it is a bit late in the day but
when
> the dust settles and you get them back or a new car, let me know
and I can
> get you sorted with some real security. Alarms DON'T work,
they only make
> noise. I agree, I would shoot the bastards, no
question.
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 11:11:57
-0500
From: "Karl Siebert" <ksiebert@gow.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
water pump leak
"Is there an easy way to check by just removing the
timing belt covers?
Anyone had similar symptoms?
"
Marc
The only way to get the timing belt cover off is to remove
the Crankshaft
Pulley. In order to get that off, you need to disconnect
the powersteering
belt and alternator belt. You're in for a big job,
but, you can't neglect
it. I just did the same job, and everything is
good now (after 60k service)
Has your timing belt and water pump ever been
replaced?
Karl
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:18:36
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rear Camber Settings
I think too much negative camber on the rear would
not be that great on our
cars. _1.5 seems to be jsut about
right.
For the front at least -1 even for street use and neutral on the
rear would
probably work okay. Mine (before the GC setup) was -1.25
front and -1 rear
and I wanted a bit more, but that's all that could be had
from the stock
setup without extra effort. The GC camber plates, of
course, make all of
this moot.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I am of the opinion that negative camber is a good
thing on the
> track. With
> the Ground Control suspension
that my son and I run, there is a
> limit to the
> amount of
negative camber we can get, but it is within the tolerance
> specified for
our car. I believe it's more important to have the same
> amount of
negative camber between left and right wheels than to have the
> same
amount between front and rear. We are not experiencing any
abnormal
> tire wear. In fact, our track tires are outlasting many
other
> drivers, and
> are wearing very evenly.
>
>
Chuck
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:25:38
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TT
with automatic
All three transmissions are 100% interchangeable with all
three engine
variations. However, the automatic tranny has been known
to be failure
prone in high-output nitrous and forced induction
applications.
Jeff V.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 09:31:17
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: water pump leak
At 09:21 AM 1/30/01 -0500, Marc Jonathan
Jacobs wrote:
>I have been noticing a water leak due to our wonderful "low
water
>sensor". I top it off about 2 cups every 3 days. I
checked the hoses,
>radiator, cap, etc. Last night I found a nice
puddle under the drivers
>side of the engine. The puddle seems to
line up with the timing belt
>cover.
Classic sign of a
leaking water pump. You'll have to replace the timing
belt, too. Think of it
as an early 120,000 mile service.
Rich/old poop
>
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:19:47
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: water pump leak
Same thing happened to me. The water
pump started leaking at 105K. This is
what happens when the water pump
isn't changed at every 60K service. Anyway, do
the 120K service for
timing belt and water pump early. You can drive the car
for a short
time as long as the puddle remains small and you keep topping off
the
resevoir, but make your appointment soon, or order the parts and do
it
yourself fairly soon.
Good luck,
Ken
> I have been
noticing a water leak due to our wonderful "low water
> sensor". I
top it off about 2 cups every 3 days. I checked the hoses,
>
radiator, cap, etc. Last night I found a nice puddle under the
drivers
> side of the engine. The puddle seems to line up with the
timing belt
> cover.
>
> Is there an easy way to check by
just removing the timing belt covers?
> Anyone had similar
symptoms?
>
> It is a '94 VR-4 with 105K miles. I won't drive
it until I find this
> leak.
- --
If you lived in your car,
you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics -
Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:21:27
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade
Hi Craig,
Wow, now you have me
scratching my head. But there are some possiblities.
First of
all the 91-93 rims are suppose to be close to fitting, but not fit.
So here are some possibilities. First, they could have shaved the ends of
your calipers. I think just 1/8" would do it to allow the calipers to
clear. Second, someone could of hollowed out the rims so they would
clear
the calipers. (not likely) And third, maybe someone down graded
your front
calipers and rotors to the 91-93 ones. The look and
workings of the front
calipers are the same on all years. Its just
with the larger rotors on the
94+ cars, the mounting brackets are longer on
the calipers.
Hope that helps,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>From: "Craig
Golema" <CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade
>Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:24:02
-0600
>NEW MESSAGE...
>
>Sorry to bring this up again,
but, here's the deal. After heading home last
>night, I took some photos
of my Stealth TT (94' - Second Gen.). Now this is
>my third Stealth, 92'
TT, 92' R/T and the 94' TT. I'll admit, I'm not as
>sharp as I should be
on the brakes...but after owning a few of these
>wonderful cars and
performing 60k Tune-ups, regular maint. and such
>myself...I consider
myself not mechanically challenged regarding them.
>
>As I said,
this is my first Second Gen. Stealth and I honestly can't recall
>(from
memory) the appearance and style of the calipers/components of the
>other
two. So, I'm really perplexed! Below are five photos of my 94' TT
>with
stock 93' TT wheels. I purchased the car with these (the 93's) on it,
>but also had the stock 94's in their boxes. Can anyone tell me why stock
>93' wheels fit on my 2nd Gen. car and not others?
>
>All
systems function, including the ABS. I removed both wheels from one
>side
and noticed no spacers, etc. The car handles well and drives like new.
>I
don't think I'm crazy........
>
>http://www.3si.org/upload/93oncar.jpg
Left Side of car
>
>http://www.3si.org/upload/93left1.jpg
Front Left wheel
>
>http://www.3si.org/upload/93left2.jpg
Rear Left wheel
>
>http://www.3si.org/upload/93right1.jpg
Front Right wheel
>
>http://www.3si.org/upload/93right2.jpg
Rear Right wheel
>
>Thanx!
>
>Craig
>94 Twin
Turbo
>Custom 3"
exhaust
>FIPK
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 13:49:16
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Team3s: Need advice on engine block preparation
Recently I
purchased a factory new 4-bolt short-block for a repair/upgrade
to my 92
TT. Now that I've finally been able to round up the remainder of
the
parts, I need some advice on how to prepare the block for assembly.
Namely, I
need to know what needs to be cleaned and pre-lubed prior to
installation in
the car. The service manual is sorely lacking in this area.
Any other tips
for the assembly would be welcome as well. All
recommendations are greatly
appreciated.
Jeff V.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:58:02
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: F**king car thieves
Miracle of miracles. My GTO has been
found. It was bing readied for shipping
across the water to the UK but they
made the mistake of parking it up where
it was visible and a squad car
happened to be passing and remembered the
detailed description I gave of
it.
Lesson learned to be VERY descriptive when reporting to the
police.
Damage done is:
Drivers lock and handle gone
Steering
column cover and ignition etc gone
Stereo gone (but not multi-changer under
the floor in the boot/trunk)
HKS EVC-IV gone but none of the cables for it
(clever morons)
Indicator stalk bent beyond repair
I have £5,000 worth
of claim credit without effecting my no-claims bonus so
I'll get it all done
properly but don't mind hitting the breakers yards for
the plastics under the
steering end of things and stuff.
Thanks for all the support. My brain
pulse has reduced considerably. Just
need to keep the fingers crossed that
the Girlfriends MX6 appears now. The
police in the area weren't aware that 2
were stolen in the same visit so
they have gone back to the are they found
mine to check again.
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
Slightly damaged 1993
Dark Metallic Grey VR4 (japanese import)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 14:07:00
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: F**king car thieves
> Miracle of miracles. My GTO has been
found. It was
> bing readied for shipping across the water to the
>
UK....
You probably want to take some of the insurance money and invest
in a really
nice security system for it (and a nice handgun) as soon as
possible, since
the thieves obviously know where you live and may decide to
steal it again
since they seem to have done their homework and probably
already have a
buyer for it.
Theft sucks.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:32:38
-0500
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject:
Team3S: re: Clutch fluid leaking inside the car
-
--0__=852569E40074EFFB8f9e8a93df938690918c852569E40074EFFB
Content-type:
text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Subject:
re: Clutch fluid
leaking
inside the
car
Attachment(s):
<font size=-1></font>
Chris,
Same thing happened to me
last summer. The clutch Master cylinder was bad.
A kit is not available and a
new one costs about $130 through a Dodge or
Mitsu dealer (same part number).
You can replace it yourself, but it's a
real pain and will take some time.
The brake MC, brake booster, the steel
clutch tube, and battery all have to
be removed before you can get to the
clutch MC. A few other things have to be
loosened up to remove that tube.
It's a real headache to remove. And then you
have to spend some time on the
floorboard behind the pedals to get to all the
bolts. It's doable, though.
Don't forget to bleed the clutch and brakes when
you're done --- another
pain in the ###.
Hope this
helps.
JeffW
'92 VR4
> Hi everyone,
the other day i noticed that my car was leaking clutch
fluid
>from
inside the car, it seems to be leaking form a rubber part thats
right
>behind the pedal. Has anyone had this problem before? I
was thinking
maybe
>it could be something i could fix, and save me from
being yet another
victim
>at my local mitsu dealer. Any advise
its greatly appreciated. Thanks in
>advance.
>Chris, 92
SL.
(Embedded image moved to file: pic20356.pcx)
-
--0__=852569E40074EFFB8f9e8a93df938690918c852569E40074EFFB
Content-type:
application/octet-stream;
name="pic20356.pcx"
Content-Disposition:
attachment; filename="pic20356.pcx"
Content-transfer-encoding:
base64
Content-Description:
Paintbrush
CgUBCAAAAAAJAAEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAABCgABAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADGAMMAAMYAwwAADAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==
-
--0__=852569E40074EFFB8f9e8a93df938690918c852569E40074EFFB--
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:35:39
-0500
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject:
Team3S: re: Clutch fluid leaking inside the car
-
--0__=852569E4007688118f9e8a93df938690918c852569E400768811
Content-type:
text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Subject:
re: Clutch fluid
leaking
inside the
car
Attachment(s):
<font size=-1></font>
Chris,
Same thing happened to me
last summer. The clutch Master cylinder was bad.
A kit is not available and a
new one costs about $130 through a Dodge or
Mitsu dealer (same part number).
You can replace it yourself, but it's a
real pain and will take some time.
The brake MC, brake booster, the steel
clutch tube, and battery all have to
be removed before you can get to the
clutch MC. A few other things have to be
loosened up to remove that tube.
It's a real headache to remove. And then you
have to spend some time on the
floorboard behind the pedals to get to all the
bolts. It's doable, though.
Don't forget to bleed the clutch and brakes when
you're done --- another
pain in the ###.
Hope this
helps.
JeffW
'92 VR4
> Hi everyone,
the other day i noticed that my car was leaking clutch
fluid
>from
inside the car, it seems to be leaking form a rubber part thats
right
>behind the pedal. Has anyone had this problem before? I
was thinking
maybe
>it could be something i could fix, and save me from
being yet another
victim
>at my local mitsu dealer. Any advise
its greatly appreciated. Thanks in
>advance.
>Chris, 92
SL.
(Embedded image moved to file: pic01847.pcx)
-
--0__=852569E4007688118f9e8a93df938690918c852569E400768811
Content-type:
application/octet-stream;
name="pic01847.pcx"
Content-Disposition:
attachment; filename="pic01847.pcx"
Content-transfer-encoding:
base64
Content-Description:
Paintbrush
CgUBCAAAAAAJAAEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAABCgABAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADGAMMAAMYAwwAADAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==
-
--0__=852569E4007688118f9e8a93df938690918c852569E400768811--
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:12:08
EST
From: Bestaby@aol.com
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth Twin Turbo
I am looking for a project
car 92 - 94 Twin Turbo for around $5000.
Thanks,
Glen (Known as Sugarman)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:14:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum
Dont waste time on intake. Its all in the
exhaust.
Flow rates INTO the cylinder are miniscule compared to what you
need to
get OUT of the cylinder.
You can find a HUGE amount of
performance in getting:
1) The valve bowls ported (simple job) and
exhaust ports on the head
matched to the sizes of the gasket..the manifolds I
think I recall, are
already properly sized.
The largest restriction in
your intake is your valve..anything ya do
before that outside of larger ICs
doesnt buy you a thing in a turbo
environment.
On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 Kdog109SD@aol.com wrote:
> Hi
Everyone,
> I have a 95 3000gt DOCH,
and I wanted to extract as much power out of
> the engine that I
can. Well I was just wondering, which process is better
>
Extrude-Honning the intake Plenum, or should I get it ported and polished by
> "professional" here in town? Also, I went to the Extrude-Hones
website, and
> they had something about gasket matching. Is there
any place that sells
> oversized gaskets (not sure if there is such a
thing) for the NA cars that I
> can send with the Plenum so that way I
can get it "gasketmatched". Also when
> I was searching the
archives on the Team 3SI page, I saw some posts where the
> throttlebody
wouldn't fit the plenum after it is been its been extrude-honed.
>
Is this really a problem.........? I would appreciate all the help I could
> get.
>
> Thanks much,
> Kunal S.
> 95
3KGT DOCH
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#392
*********************