team3s            Monday, January 29 2001            Volume 01 : Number 391




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Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:14:06 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Rear shock removal question

Sorry to hear it.  I had to push so hard with a pry bar that the car slid
several inches accross the garage floor on its jack stands.  Eventually the
bottom eye came off leaving the rubber bushing/inner sleeve still
(permanently) attached.  BTW it was the passenger side lower mount.  The
drivers side slid off like it was new.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT



Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary

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Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 19:14:50 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Rear shock removal question

Sam,
You were in the right direction with the air hammer. Just use the flat
blade directly against the backside of the shock mount/bushing and press
HARD. You can try spraying some rust loosener  in there too.

Wayne


At 09:06 AM 1/28/01 , Sam Shelat wrote:
>.  I
>have used a block of wood and a sledge, air hammer and an axe handle.
>Anybody have any advice or tips?  Did I miss something?  Any thoughts or
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 01:40:31 EST
From: Sportsmobile101@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Clutch fluid leaking inside the car.

    Hi everyone, the other day i noticed that my car was leaking clutch fluid
from inside the car, it seems to be leaking form a rubber part thats right
behind the pedal.  Has anyone had this problem before?  I was thinking maybe
it could be something i could fix, and save me from being yet another victim
at my local mitsu dealer.  Any advise its greatly appreciated.  Thanks in
advance.
Chris, 92 SL.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:37:52 -0500
From: "Karl Siebert" <ksiebert@gow.org>
Subject: Team3S: Tensioner and Tensioner pulley

I just completed the 60K service this weekend on my 91' stealth ES.  The FAQ
about it on the 3S website is great.  I followed the directions exactly, and
everything worked out great, I think.  There are only two problems.

1.  When tightening the tensioner pulley, I wasn't positive on how to use
the Tensioner pulley tool.  I placed to two small pins of the tool into the
holes on the pulley, and then (as it was attached to a small breaker bar),
positioned it so that the two holes were directly above the bolt of the
pulley.  I then tightened it to 36 pounds.  The tension of the belt is
determined by the tensioner right (it's hydrolic, so there's really no way
to mess up the tension of the timing belt?

2.  When driving the car after the tune up, it was strange.  At times, when
I would accelerate, the RPM's would go up and the engine would rev up, but
the car wouldn't speed up.  I've never experienced this before.  Then if I
would let off of the gas, and accelerate again, the car would speed up like
normal.  This was true for each gear.  Can anybody explain this?

Please help me!

Karl

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:59:36 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade

In that case, it looks like a '93 upgrade would require '94 rotors,
calipers, AND wheels.  That gets a little expensive.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lorne Silkes [SMTP:vr4@cwia.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 4:07 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Roger Gerl (RTEC)'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade
>
> If I remeber correctly from a test at one of the Gatherings,
> The older 17" wheels do not clear the 94+ calipers.
>
> Lorne
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:10:34 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: transaxle seal leak : gone

I went to O'Reily's to get a couple of new low beams, and ACTUALLY SAW BLUE
HEADLIGHTS!  The cost twice as much as the regular ones.  At $15 each, that
would be $60 entry fee to become a blue light person.  Who says that's
cheap? 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:44 PM
> To: kalla@tripoint.org; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: transaxle seal leak : gone
>
> At 05:33 PM 1/26/01 -0600, kalla@tripoint.org wrote:
> >I put another seal and a new c-clip on the half shaft two nights
> >ago, and had a friend help me seat the shaft this time. There was a
> >satisfying pop as we pushed it in. It's in there tightly this time.
> >Thanks everyone for your help ..
> >
> That's what this list is all about.
> I just love it when everything works out like that.
> Say what you want about us being all stuckup over here and unfriendly to
> the blue light people, but this list actually helps people with real
> problems.
> Our list admins should be proud.
>
> Rich/old poop
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:19:51 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 94+ Brake Upgrade

Just a minute.  Although I didn't get to work on the brakes this weekend, I
think we are miscommunicating about the front caliper body difference.  I
don't think there is a separate "mounting bracket" for the '94 caliper, just
the part of the caliper body that attaches to the back of the hub assembly
is longer.  If I am right, you need to buy '94 front caliper bodies.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Lasher [SMTP:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 6:18 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Re: 94+ Brake Upgrade
>
> Thanks for all the info/discussion on the brake upgrade.  I have a 92
> VR-4,
> so for the front, basically all I need are the 94+ mounting brackets and
> rotors, correct?  I have 18" wheels already.  I just need to cut the dust
> shield, put on the 94 rotors and 94 brackets, then bolt up the old
> calipers, and I'm good to go, right?  Anyone know a good place to get the
> mounting brackets?  I'll worry about the rears later.
>
> -Steve Lasher
> '92 VR-4
>
> P.S. You're right John, I want/need the Big Reds, I just can't afford them
> right now :-(
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:27:14 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Rear shock removal question

try putting a jack under the wheel and supporting the weight of the axle.
Use a block of wood between the jack and the hub or rotor depending on how
much you took off the car already.  You might have to raise the axle a bit
to relieve the tension.  THEN WHALE AWAY ON THE D&&M THING!  Maybe you want
to put some anti seize compound on it when you reinstall.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat [SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 10:07 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Re: Rear shock removal question
>
> I am having a problem removing the rear shock from the lower mounting
> position.  The bolt is off, but the shock will not slide off its perch.  I
> have used a block of wood and a sledge, air hammer and an axe handle.
> Anybody have any advice or tips?  Did I miss something?  Any thoughts or
> experiences would be appreciated.  I usually see Midas guys just take a
> torch and cut the old shocks in half, but thats not an option for me since
> I
> do not have an acetylene torch.
>
> Sam
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:26:02 -0600
From: "Craig Golema" <CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade

  I'm not sure I follow correctly, I have a 94' TT with only 18k original miles (I love saying that!). The previous owner sold me the car with 93' Slant 17's installed. He was also kind enough to give me the 94' Swirls in their boxes.

  If I read this correctly, the 93'  17's shouldn't fit the 94 TT. I can assure you that they do fit. At least on my TT. Now, I will admit, there doesn't appear to be much room between the calipers and the spokes (I'd have to measure) but they do fit and work wonderfully.

  Am I reading to deeply into this thread?

Just asking...

Craig

<snip>  In that case, it looks like a '93 upgrade would require '94 rotors,
calipers, AND wheels.  That gets a little expensive.

<snip> If I remember correctly from a test at one of the Gatherings,
> The older 17" wheels do not clear the 94+ calipers.




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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:32:45 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade

I heard that '93 chrome wheels which I have  will clear, but other wheels
may not - I take it this means the anodized aluminum version, which my son
has.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Craig Golema [SMTP:CGOLEMA@hobbico.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 8:26 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade
>
>   I'm not sure I follow correctly, I have a 94' TT with only 18k original
> miles (I love saying that!). The previous owner sold me the car with 93'
> Slant 17's installed. He was also kind enough to give me the 94' Swirls in
> their boxes.
>
>   If I read this correctly, the 93'  17's shouldn't fit the 94 TT. I can
> assure you that they do fit. At least on my TT. Now, I will admit, there
> doesn't appear to be much room between the calipers and the spokes (I'd
> have to measure) but they do fit and work wonderfully.
>
>   Am I reading to deeply into this thread?
>
> Just asking...
>
> Craig
>
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:39:18 -0600
From: "Craig Golema" <CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade

 Aaaah! Maybe I have a set of 93' 17's that were supposed to be chromed at some point in their new life. Who knows? At any rate, they're not chrome (they are machined/painted? aluminum finish) and mount well.

Craig
94 Twin Turbo

<snip>  I heard that '93 chrome wheels which I have  will clear, but other wheels
may not - I take it this means the anodized aluminum version, which my son
has.


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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:42:42 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: transaxle seal leak : gone

> I went to O'Reily's to get a couple of new low beams, and
> ACTUALLY SAW BLUE HEADLIGHTS!  The cost twice as much as
> the regular ones.  At $15 each, that would be $60 entry
> fee to become a blue light person.  Who says that's
> cheap? 

Yeah, that's pretty, cheap but the folks around here usually discourage
doing things that make your car worse instead of better.  Blue headlights
(unless they are true HID systems) are a drastic reduction in the amount of
illumination broadcast by the headlight.  The beam patterns are typically
poor as well.  Save the cash for something that'll actually help.  :-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:52:02 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: Intercooler refurb

Once the front bumper cover (and air dam) is off, removing the intercoolers
is a piece of cake.

Passenger side: Both air hoses can be disconnected from underneath the car.
I had already removed the air dam motor assembly, so maybe that was why I
had so much clearance.  Then it's three bolts.

Driver's side: Disconnecting the air hoses is a little tricky.  I
disconnected the one that goes to the rear of the engine at the intercooler
pipe, but left the other connected to the intercooler and disconnected it at
the tube that runs in front of the engine.  I had to disconnect the supports
to the a/c line to get clearance for these two operations.  Three bolts hold
the oil cooler to the car.  It can hang by its hoses, but you have to
disconnect a bracket from the top of the oil cooler to untangle the
intercooler when you remove it.  Careful or you will bang up the rear of the
intercooler.  After you remove the intercooler, paint an alignment mark
before you remove the little air hose, so you can put it on right later.

I degreased both intercoolers and also the oil cooler.  I took a little
screw driver and straightened all the vanes. If you push the screwdriver in
deep, the intact vanes act as a guide to help you straigten the channels.
You do this from both front and back.  About 1/3 of the air passages were
blocked on the passenger side, 1/2 on the drivers side.  Then I used high
temperature barbeque spray paint to cover the red overspray.  It's flat
paint but what the heck. 

I rinsed the inside of the intercoolers, but they were surprisingly clean.

By the way, the paint color of all the metal and plastic parts (like the
intercooler ducts) is SATIN black, not gloss black, not flat black.  Anybody
need some extra gloss or flat black spray paint?

For the heck of it, I remove all the hoses and cleaned them.  I think maybe
I overtorqued the hose clamps.  The service manual shows only like 3 ft lbs
or something, and I'm sure I cranked them harder.  I didn't collapse any
tubing.  Anybody know what's bad about overtorquing air hoses?

Chuck    

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:30:09 -0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94+ Brake Upgrade

O.K. guys, I don't want newer people getting confused here as far as which
rims fit what.  Its been discussed and tested by several people before.  The
stock rims on the 91-93 VR4s and Stealth Twin Turbos will NOT fit 94+ VR4s
and Twin Turbos.  Its that simple.  If your not sure what is stock, look at
my wheel page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/wheels.html

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org


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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:36:26 -0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intercooler refurb

> tubing.  Anybody know what's bad about overtorquing air hoses?

I dunno about anyone else, but whenever I remove any of my
intercooler hoses and put them back on, I make sure the hose
clamps are *really* tight. Suppose I'm paranoid about boost leaks.

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org


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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:50:03 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: blue lights

At 08:10 AM 1/29/01 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>I went to O'Reily's to get a couple of new low beams, and ACTUALLY SAW BLUE
>HEADLIGHTS!  The cost twice as much as the regular ones.  At $15 each, that
>would be $60 entry fee to become a blue light person.  Who says that's
>cheap? 

The blue lights I am talking about are the blue neon lights that idiots...
er, sorry, I mean really hip dudes... put under their cars.

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:11:16 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner and Tensioner pulley

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Siebert <ksiebert@gow.org>

> 1.  When tightening the tensioned pulley, I wasn't positive on how to use
> the Tensioner pulley tool.  I placed to two small pins of the tool into the
> holes on the pulley, and then (as it was attached to a small breaker bar),
> positioned it so that the two holes were directly above the bolt of the
> pulley.

The book says to tension it to 7.2 ft/lb. I have no Idea what it's set at and
yes you can over tighten it. You need a shop manual or a copy of the
manual on CD --- at $35 you can't afford not to.
==================================================
> I then tightened it to 36 pounds. 

the book says 42 ft/lb so you're not far off.
================================================
> I would accelerate, the RPM's would go up and the engine would rev up, but
> the car wouldn't speed up

Classic signs of a slipping clutch --- it has nothing to do with the timing
belt change though.

        Jim Berry


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 10:34:37 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner and Tensioner pulley

>1.  When tightening the tensioner pulley, I wasn't positive on how to use
>the Tensioner pulley tool.  I placed to two small pins of the tool into the
>holes on the pulley, and then (as it was attached to a small breaker bar),
>positioned it so that the two holes were directly above the bolt of the
>pulley.  I then tightened it to 36 pounds.  The tension of the belt is
>determined by the tensioner right (it's hydrolic, so there's really no way
>to mess up the tension of the timing belt?

Yes...you can over/under tighten the belt.

You need a in-lb torque wrench to tighten the belt to the factor spec of
7.2in-lb(by using adapter with pins in the pulle..with pulley bolt finger
tight.) Then you tighten the pulley bolt to the factory spec of 42ft-lb(if I
remember).  Now then next part is the important part.  The pin holding the
tensioner rod should remove easily at this point.  You could remove it at
this point, but I don't.  You need to turn the crank two complete
revolutions and let it sit for a couple of minutes.  After waiting you
should be able to remove and insert the pin with little or no resistance. 
If you remove the pin and can not get it back in, the belt tension is not
correct and you have to retorque the belt to 7.2in-lb.  You can tell if you
over/under tightened it by looking at the hole in the shaft with respect to
the hole in the housing of the tensioner.  i.e. if over tightened, the shaft
will be pushed back into the tensioner after sitting for a couple of
minutes.   It is very important to get the tension of the belt correct!!

The serice manual does a good job of describing the method of setting the
correct tension on the belt.

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT


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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:00:53 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner and Tensioner pulley

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Wendlandt <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>

> Yes...you can over/under tighten the belt.
>
> You need a in-lb torque wrench to tighten the belt to the factor spec of
> 7.2in-lb


My book sez ---- 7.2 ft-lb  not  in-lb. 

        Jim Berry


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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 12:34:46 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: RE: blue lights

Are you telling me I can't be a blue light person if I project the blue
light DOWN the road - it has to be ON the road?  Jeez, I'm disappointed now.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 9:50 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; kalla@tripoint.org; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: blue lights
>
> At 08:10 AM 1/29/01 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> >I went to O'Reily's to get a couple of new low beams, and ACTUALLY SAW
> BLUE
> >HEADLIGHTS!  The cost twice as much as the regular ones.  At $15 each,
> that
> >would be $60 entry fee to become a blue light person.  Who says that's
> >cheap? 
>
> The blue lights I am talking about are the blue neon lights that idiots...
> er, sorry, I mean really hip dudes... put under their cars.
>
> Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 12:53:30 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: DSM BOV for the VR4

Okay,

FAQ (dumb question) of the day:

Besides the GReddy Type S BOV ($279 list), who sells the DSM BOV with the
adapter?  My son bought two of these once upon a time for our '93 VR4's, and
I need another for my '94 VR4.

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 12:47:31 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner and Tensioner pulley

Oops...I guess that is always the risk when one quotes specs and they don't
have the book in front of them.  This is one reason that I usually prefer to
use newton meters rather than the english measurements.   My ft-lb wrench
won't go below 20 ft-lb...so I need to use my in-lb wrench.  That is where I
made the mistake.

Thanks for keeping me honest Jim!!

Mark Wendlandt


>
>
>My book sez ---- 7.2 ft-lb  not  in-lb.
>
>         Jim Berry
>

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 12:57:52 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM BOV for the VR4

> Besides the GReddy Type S BOV ($279 list), who sells the DSM
> BOV with the adapter?  My son bought two of these once upon
> a time for our '93 VR4's, and I need another for my '94 VR4.

Any of the ones set up for the 2G DSM to use the 1G valve should work fine.
I have the piece from Extreme Motorsports.  Buschur Racing's kit should
work, as should Road/Race Engineering, Diamond Star Specialties, etc.

http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/icpipe.htm  (Part EXM0207 - $129)


http://www.buschurracing.com

Direct link to the part itself:

http://www.buschurracing.com/buschur/BRwebsite.nsf/a444d1060f194cf2052568ed0
0652de6/a18b23266a10fc77052568df00149358?OpenDocument

Part number 3019, $140.


http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/secgenprice.html  ($125 - 1G
Compressor Bypass Valve and Adaptor)

DSS also sends a package of Zots candy with their parts.  Yummy!  ;-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


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Date: 29 Jan 2001 13:11:34 -0800
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Battery won't hold charge, check for this.

I had the same problem my wife got stuck away from home with a dying battery so I told her to go to Sears and get a Die Hard Gold.   The battery cable ends were so corroded that Sears had to put new ends on.   The battery was great a first but slowly started to die.  When i inspected the car I noticed that the positiver battery cable was rubbing on the shiny portion of underhood heat shield with no boot over battery cable end.   I put a cheap boot over end of cable charge the battery and my problems went away. 

I gues the hood insulation had enough resistance to drain the battery w/o causing a seroius short.

Just somthing to check on.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
91 VR4 waiting for an engine rebuild.


> Original messge below:

>Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 16:52:26 -0600
>From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
>Subject: Team3S: Alternator??
 
> Tried swapping battery but the car won't hold a
> charge.  Did not make any difference. 

>Gabriel Estrada

 


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com

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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 13:33:22 -0800
From: bob koch <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: dash cover for sale

- -- Is anyone interested in a dash cover...dark,dark grey (almost black)
for your stealth or 3000gt ??? I got one that looks brand new and just
got burned by the high bidder on E-bay. thier loss your gain.......I'll
take the first 23.50 for it.(shipping included for U.S. only) It came
out of my 93 stealth and I dont need it.


- ---------------------------------------------
Robert Koch
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com



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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 14:09:00 -0800
From: bob koch <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: dash cover is sold sorry

- -- first come first serve


- ---------------------------------------------
Robert Koch
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com




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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:47:00 -0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner and Tensioner pulley

Actually Jim, if he has just done the classic 60k maintenance (including belts,
pulleys, tension, AND plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc) he may be getting out more
HP, which may have made his slipping clutch more apparent.  Just a thought.. =)

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/3SI_Rochester

Jim Berry wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karl Siebert <ksiebert@gow.org>
>
> > 1.  When tightening the tensioned pulley, I wasn't positive on how to use
> > the Tensioner pulley tool.  I placed to two small pins of the tool into the
> > holes on the pulley, and then (as it was attached to a small breaker bar),
> > positioned it so that the two holes were directly above the bolt of the
> > pulley.
>
> The book says to tension it to 7.2 ft/lb. I have no Idea what it's set at and
> yes you can over tighten it. You need a shop manual or a copy of the
> manual on CD --- at $35 you can't afford not to.
> ==================================================
> > I then tightened it to 36 pounds.
>
> the book says 42 ft/lb so you're not far off.
> ================================================
> > I would accelerate, the RPM's would go up and the engine would rev up, but
> > the car wouldn't speed up
>
> Classic signs of a slipping clutch --- it has nothing to do with the timing
> belt change though.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:43:06 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch job

With the list mentioning clutch slippage, how much should I expect to pay
for a clutch job?

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent


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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:18:44 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings

 All,

 Can anyone recommend a rear camber setting.  I've set the fronts to -1.25.
Should the rear match or would a different setting be of use for open track
events.

 Regards,
DaveT/92TT



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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:38:20 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber Settings

I asked the same question a few month and got no response --- my take on the
issue is neg 3 on the front for race day and my every day 1½ neg on the rear.
I have camber plates on the front so I can play with that  but the rear requires
a shop to set it up properly.
I rotate my race tires front to back to try and even the wear ---- the hard
cornering wears the outside edge to compensate for the every day negative
camber which wears the inside edge. the result is that they wear relatively
evenly over the course of a season ---- it looks like 4 or 5 events is going to
be it for the year and the tires.
If I had the time and money I'd try 3 degrees negative all around --- you know,
have my pit crew change settings between sessions so I can evaluate the best
configuration or better yet rent the track for the weekend so I can set my car
up properly.

Jim Berry ----   drive it like you stole it

===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Trent <bdtrent@netzero.net>
>  Can anyone recommend a rear camber setting.  I've set the fronts to -1.25.
> Should the rear match or would a different setting be of use for open track
> events.
>
>  Regards,
> DaveT/92TT



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End of team3s V1 #391
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