team3s           Thursday, January 25 2001           Volume 01 : Number 387




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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 14:01:30 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: answering my own stupid question ...

Yes, indeedy, you CAN remove the front bumper cover from the 2nd generation
VR4 without removing the fog lights.  In fact, it is much easier to remove
the fog lamp assemblies AFTER removing the bumper cover.  I have absolutely
no idea why the service manual would indicate that the fog lamps should be
removed first.

Next silly question:  anybody ever disassembled the headlamp assemblies on
the second generation VR4's?  I'd hate to ruin them, but they look like they
could stand some cleaning.

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:12:00 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Old Brake Fluid

Motul is hygroscopic - it absorbs water from the air.  After 4 years, it's
probably saturated with water, which I'm guessing will lower the boiling
point.  What color is the fluid?  If it's still clear light amber, I'd
probably use it 'cause I'm a cheap #$@tard.  It's only $10 a bottle.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Lasher [SMTP:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 3:56 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Old Brake Fluid
>
> While cleaning out my storage room for the move, I found an old bottle
> of Motul brake fluid that must have fallen behind the shelf.  It has a
> small, pin-hole sized crack near the top (I'm assuming from the fall).
> No fluid leaked out of the can, and the seal under the cap is still
> intact.  I figure it's been there at least 4 years.  Question is:
> assuming no debris got in the can, is it still good?  It's an indoor
> storage room w/heat & a/c, and the hole is tiny.  Thoughts?  TiA
>
> -Steve Lasher
> '92 VR-4
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: 23 Jan 2001 17:33:48 +0000
From: martin berkley <3000gto@breathe.com>
Subject: Team3S: Plug wire diagnosis

Hi Guys
I have a bad plug wire somewhere but don't know which one, is there anyway that i can diagnose which one has gone bad with a voltmeter perhaps?
Thanks in advance.
Martin Berkley


___________________________________________
It's amazing what happens when you breathe.
www.breathe.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:58:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Plug wire diagnosis

No..because when one goes bad, you should replace them all to be safe and
save the time.

On 23 Jan 2001, martin berkley wrote:

> Hi Guys
> I have a bad plug wire somewhere but don't know which one, is there anyway that i can diagnose which one has gone bad with a voltmeter perhaps?
> Thanks in advance.
> Martin Berkley
>
>
> ___________________________________________
> It's amazing what happens when you breathe.
> www.breathe.com
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:56:15 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS Light - off again after a week?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Roger J. Roskam

> My SRS light came on when my battery died. 
<snip>
> and off 10 times, nothing worked. I finally pulled the dash apart and took
> the bulb out.
>
> What do the dealers know that we don't?  There is nothing in the service
> manual about shutting it off...

I assume it's a cover your ass item from Mitsu --- any problem must be looked
at by a dealer and then reset. That way you can't keep resetting an intermittant
problem then sue them when the bag dosn't go off.

Jim Berry


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 23:56:55 -0600
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS Light - off again after a week?

Before you take it to the dealer, Roger, you may look to the fuse box.  I recall one
time when I changed the coolant in my car and afterward got a check engine light
which wouldn't go out regardless of how long I let it idle or sit.  The ultimate
solution came from me selectively pulling a fuse and leaving it out for a minute or
so to let everything discharge.  I'm not saying pulling a fuse will solve your
problem, but it may be worth a try before you pay the dealer.

Jim Berry wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Roger J. Roskam
>
> > My SRS light came on when my battery died.
> <snip>
> > and off 10 times, nothing worked. I finally pulled the dash apart and took
> > the bulb out.
> >
> > What do the dealers know that we don't?  There is nothing in the service
> > manual about shutting it off...
>
> I assume it's a cover your ass item from Mitsu --- any problem must be looked
> at by a dealer and then reset. That way you can't keep resetting an intermittant
> problem then sue them when the bag dosn't go off.
>
> Jim Berry
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 07:27:27 -0600
From: kalla@tripoint.org
Subject: Team3S: AWD transaxle seal (image)

I finally had time to get under the car for a few minutes and take a quick
picture of the passenger side half shaft where it enters the transaxle and
seal.

http://www.tripoint.org/oilseal.jpg

Its slightly blurry but it's the best I could do lying underneath the car.
The green piece does not meet flush with the seal, and there is about 3/8
to 1/2 inch of shaft (easily seen, its shiny) protruding past the seal.
The seal is looking a little ragged around its inside lip. I imagine that
the half shaft has been moving around and wearing it out.

I've got another seal and a new c-clip which after having read
everyone's suggestions I think will fix the problem. Anyone concur?

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 08:12:27 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS Light - off again after a week?

> My SRS light came on when my battery died.  I replaced the battery, but the
> light has been on ever since, about 2 years.  I tried everything to get it
> to shut off: disconnected the battery for 1/2 day, turned the ignition on
> and off 10 times, nothing worked. I finally pulled the dash apart and took
> the bulb out.
>
> What do the dealers know that we don't?  There is nothing in the service
> manual about shutting it off...

To shut the light off, you have to "reset the latch" in the ECU.  The dealer, or
any shop with an ECU diagnostic tool (probably DRB II and later) can do this.
The dealer of course will want to run a full diagnostic of the SRS system before
they reset the light and this costs $50+.  If you have an early model car, you
may just want to pay the dealer for a diagnostic and get it done.  If you have a
newer car, you may want to just find a local shop that will do it for a lot
less.  The dealer reset mine for free when I had the car in for it's 120K
service.

- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 10:34:41 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AWD transaxle seal (image)

> The green piece does not meet flush with the seal, and there
> is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of shaft (easily seen, its shiny)
> protruding past the seal.

> I've got another seal and a new c-clip which after having read
> everyone's suggestions I think will fix the problem. Anyone concur?

Concur completely.  When you reinstall it, remember that it takes a LOT of
force to seat it in all the way.  When it slides in, you'll know it because
it should "pop" in and lock into the front diff.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:50:07 EST
From: Peles3kgt@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket Y-Pipe.......

If anyone out there has an upgraded y-pipe, whether its all chrome, or
whatever, could you please let me know where/how much you got it for.  I'm in
dire need of a new Y-pipe and can't seem to find an upgraded one anywhere. 
TIA.

                                        Dave

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:50:42 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need someone in the Chippewa, Wisconsin area

Hey guys, sorry for the off-topic post.  I'm interested in a vehicle in the
Chippewa, Wisconsin area.  Anyone willing to go take pictures and get a
general condition for me?

The vehicle has been wrecked, so I'd like detailed photos of the damaged
area.

Thanks,

Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 04:05:10 EST
From: LizVong21@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: parting out 92 stealth r/t tt

name your part taking offers on everything

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #387
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