team3s
Monday, January 22
2001 Volume 01
: Number
385
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Jan 2001 17:04:48 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Shocks & Struts
No one has found an aftermarket ECS strut for our
cars --- if you want ECS you
have to stick with the Mitsu OEM shocks
!!!!!!!
BTW nothing wrong withe the stock setup if you don't race the
car.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Roger J. Roskam <roger.roskam@home.com>
To: Team3S
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, January 21, 2001 4:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: Shocks &
Struts
> Hey gang:
>
> Don't think I've seen this one
asked before, and haven't run across a good
> answer on the Net:
>
> I think my original springs, shocks and struts are in need of
replacement.
> I have 84k on my 91 Stealth RT/TT, so the mileage isn't too
high, but then
> again, my heavy car has been supported by the same
suspension parts for just
> under 10 years!
>
> I just
ordered some new Eibach Pro-Kit springs, but I need to know your
>
collective thoughts on replacement shocks and struts. I would like to
keep
> the ECS, so I don't know what options I have. I would also
like to keep the
> cost reasonable. I drive the car only on Michigan
(pothole-infested)
> roads -- I don't road race or drag race. The
car is mildly tweaked (manual
> bleeder valve) but otherwise
stock.
>
> What would you recommend for replacements? OEM, or
aftermarket? How much
> am I looking at spending? My
experience with these cars has been that OEM
> parts are usually as
expensive as aftermarket/upgrade parts, so you might as
> well go for the
upgrades. The only thing I have found so far was GAB shocks
> on the
Dynamic Racing website (which I *think* work with ECS) for $999.
> That's
more than double what I was hoping to spend, but again, I have no
> idea
what these things cost.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
Roskam
> 91 Indy Stealth RT/TT
>
>
> ***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 20:35:14
EST
From: Peles3kgt@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Y-pipe
help needed...........
Hey does anybody out there know the least
expensive route on getting a new
Y-pipe? I need a new one because the
rubberized tip that connects it with
the throttle body got really beat
up. Should I get an aftermarket or OEM
Y-pipe since I don't have many
mods and i'm just going for the least
expensive. The dealership wants
$80 for OEM. Or better yet, does anyone
have a Y-pipe they'd sell me
for less than my pancreas. Thanks for all
the
help.
Dave
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 18:58:51
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Shocks & Struts
Actually, this is a FAQ. Check the archives for
complete discussions.
Bottom line, if you want ECS you have to buy the OE
replacements. No other
shock is available that has ECS built-in.
It is a function of the strut.
The GABs (excellent BTW) do not have ECS
capability.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Don't think I've seen this one asked before, and
haven't run across a good
> answer on the Net:
>
> I think my
original springs, shocks and struts are in need of replacement.
> I have
84k on my 91 Stealth RT/TT, so the mileage isn't too high, but then
>
again, my heavy car has been supported by the same suspension
> parts for
just
> under 10 years!
<snipped>
> What would you
recommend for replacements? OEM, or aftermarket? How much
> am
I looking at spending? My experience with these cars has been that
OEM
> parts are usually as expensive as aftermarket/upgrade parts,
so
> you might as
> well go for the upgrades. The only thing I
have found so far was
> GAB shocks
> on the Dynamic Racing website
(which I *think* work with ECS) for $999.
> That's more than double what I
was hoping to spend, but again, I have no
> idea what these things
cost.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger Roskam
> 91 Indy
Stealth RT/TT
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 11:35:45
+0100
From: "H. Le Hir" <hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
SRS Light ON
Gentleman, I have the following problem.
Recently, we
had some snow around, so, as always, I "truned off" the abs,
removing the 10
A Fuse in the RD side fuse box in the engine bay.....so far,
so
good.
Then, I left my car in a Airport parking lot for one week (Had to
fly away)
During this week, the weather was pretty cold, so it's
completely possible
that the voltage of the battery dropped.
When I
came back, the car started fine, no problem, but I had a consistent
SRS light
on.
I had this previously, when my old battery died...and someone
explained me
the "10 x ingition on/off) procedure to get rid of
it...
However....this time......I couldn't manage to get that damm light
OFF.
The satarted the car a LOT more than 10 times.....still here
I
tried the on/off it with the ABS fuse removed....no luck
I pout back the ABS
fuse back in....on/off......not working.
And....the nearest Dodge dealer
(one that can reset the error) is
located....in the USA......
And Mitsu
keeps telling me that they cannot do anything to help me...
So....can
someone give me a new "trick" that I can use on the car ?
Either
re-describe me the ON/OFF procedure.....or things to check (and Yup,
I looked
at the 3S Manual Cd-Rom.....everything so far seems
ok)
Best
Henri
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 08:12:12
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Shocks & Struts
I have had the Eibach Pro-Kit with ECS
shocks for a couple of years now. It is
great for the street but is
less than optimum for the track. For the track,
stiffer springs and
better struts will handle better with less body roll and
better control over
uneven surfaces. However if your car is mostly a street or
daily
driver, the Pro-Kit/ECS struts is a great combo at a fairly good price.
The
OEM ECS struts should cost about $550 from one of the list's
discount
dealers.
Good luck,
Ken
> I just ordered some
new Eibach Pro-Kit springs, but I need to know your
> collective thoughts
on replacement shocks and struts. I would like to keep
> the ECS, so
I don't know what options I have. I would also like to keep the
>
cost reasonable. I drive the car only on Michigan
(pothole-infested)
> roads -- I don't road race or drag race. The
car is mildly tweaked (manual
> bleeder valve) but otherwise
stock.
>
> What would you recommend for replacements? OEM, or
aftermarket? How much
> am I looking at spending? My
experience with these cars has been that OEM
> parts are usually as
expensive as aftermarket/upgrade parts, so you might as
> well go for the
upgrades. The only thing I have found so far was GAB shocks
> on the
Dynamic Racing website (which I *think* work with ECS) for $999.
> That's
more than double what I was hoping to spend, but again, I have no
> idea
what these things cost.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home
by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group,
San Diego, CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 13:11:38
-0500
From: "Karl Siebert" <ksiebert@gow.org>
Subject: Team3S:
Idler Pulley
I will be doing the 60k tune up this weekend and read the
FAQ about it at
the 3S web site. The only thing that I have a question
about is about the
idler pulley. I am going to replace it like was
suggested, but wonder what
the torque is for it?
Karl
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 09:07:00
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SRS Light ON
You're probably stuck --- I've heard the on/off thing before
but I think it only
applies to 91's ??? Once the light comes on it has to
checked and reset by
the dealer --- I think it's a CYA thing, I talked to a
tech and he said Mitsu
won't even tell them if the airbags will function with
the SRS light on.
You might check with Jeff Lucius, he has a tech manual the
describes the
theory of operation of the cars subsystems.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: H. Le Hir <hlehir@lucent.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 22, 2001 2:35 AM
Subject: Team3S: SRS Light
ON
> Gentleman, I have the following problem.
>
>
Recently, we had some snow around, so, as always, I "truned off" the
abs,
> removing the 10 A Fuse in the RD side fuse box in the engine
bay.....so far,
> so good.
>
> Then, I left my car in a
Airport parking lot for one week (Had to fly away)
>
> During this
week, the weather was pretty cold, so it's completely possible
> that the
voltage of the battery dropped.
>
> When I came back, the car
started fine, no problem, but I had a consistent
> SRS light on.
>
> I had this previously, when my old battery died...and someone explained
me
> the "10 x ingition on/off) procedure to get rid of it...
>
> However....this time......I couldn't manage to get that damm light
OFF.
>
> The satarted the car a LOT more than 10 times.....still
here
> I tried the on/off it with the ABS fuse removed....no luck
>
I pout back the ABS fuse back in....on/off......not working.
>
>
And....the nearest Dodge dealer (one that can reset the error) is
>
located....in the USA......
> And Mitsu keeps telling me that they cannot
do anything to help me...
>
> So....can someone give me a new
"trick" that I can use on the car ?
>
> Either re-describe me the
ON/OFF procedure.....or things to check (and Yup,
> I looked at the 3S
Manual Cd-Rom.....everything so far seems ok)
>
> Best
>
> Henri
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:59:52
-0800
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: FW: Team3S:
Y-pipe help needed...........
I just finish with the same
project.
You need to get 2'' pipe diameter same as the throttle body and 2
clamps.
You need to support with a piece of metal the Y pipe from inside same
as it
comes the stock part to the other ends. Then you install everything
with the
clamps and you are resolving this with no more than $20!. Keep
on mind that
the Y pipe now will go beside the throttle body not over. If you
need more
help email me directly.
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT 14.2''
@ 93mph
Puerto Rico
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Peles3kgt@aol.com
Sent:
Sunday, January 21, 2001 5:35 PM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Team3S: Y-pipe help needed...........
Hey does anybody out there know the
least expensive route on getting a new
Y-pipe? I need a new one because
the rubberized tip that connects it with
the throttle body got really beat
up. Should I get an aftermarket or OEM
Y-pipe since I don't have many
mods and i'm just going for the least
expensive. The dealership wants
$80 for OEM. Or better yet, does anyone
have a Y-pipe they'd sell me
for less than my pancreas. Thanks for all
the
help.
Dave
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:56:22
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Old Brake Fluid
While cleaning out my storage room for the move,
I found an old bottle
of Motul brake fluid that must have fallen behind the
shelf. It has a
small, pin-hole sized crack near the top (I'm assuming
from the fall).
No fluid leaked out of the can, and the seal under the cap is
still
intact. I figure it's been there at least 4 years. Question
is:
assuming no debris got in the can, is it still good? It's an
indoor
storage room w/heat & a/c, and the hole is tiny.
Thoughts? TiA
- -Steve Lasher
'92 VR-4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 13:46:59
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacement Stereo for '92 vr4
Roger,
when you say the
dash speakers are wired in parallel with the door speakers
do you mean that
for example,the front left dash and front left door speaker
would be wired
to the front left output of a 4 channel stereo? Does this
mean that
any 4 channel stereo with a harness adaptor can replace the stock
unit?
(assuming correct DIN size)
regards
Ian
red 92 vr4
>From:
"Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
>To:
"ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
>CC:
"Team3S" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacement Stereo for '92 vr4
>Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001
22:33:39 -0500
>
>Ian:
>
>I just put a whole new stereo
in my Stealth.
>
>- dash speakers are mid+highs, not a common size
(no direct replacements),
>have their own capacitors to block bass
frequencies
>- door speakers are mid and low bass (no tweeters) 6.5"+
size
>- rear speakers are common 6x9" size, but not fun to get at.
their
>high-end
>(tweeters) suck.
>
>I put a JVC
KD-LX50 head unit in my car 45Wx4 (single DIN size), but a
>double-din
will fit easily. I didn't see any double-DIN units that I
>liked,
>and wanted the extra theft deterrent mine provided (goes
completely black
>when turned off).
>I also mounted a 12-disk JVC
changer behind the back seats,
>put 1" Infinity tweeters in the dash (you
could stay with the stock spkrs),
>6.5" Infinity full-range in the doors
(factory wired in parallel with the
>dash tweeters),
>6x9" Infinity
full-range in the rears.
>
>Check out the "222hp Stereo" site for
some good pics and ideas. Lots of $
>in this one, but good
documentation.
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/stereo.html
>
>I
got the ideas for my tweeter mountings from this site, but I only
spent
>about $800 total for my setup at Crutchfield. Still want to
add a powered
>subwoofer, maybe some external power amps some
day.
>
>Wiring harness is highly recommended! Available at
Crutchfield, or Best
>Buy
>(ask their install shop), and probably
other installation places.
>Crutchfield throws them in free with a
purchase of stereo head unit. They
>also sent me front door speaker
adapters and speaker wiring harnesses for
>free.
>
>If you
have any other questions, check out Crutchfield for some specs on
>our
>cars, or ask me :-)
>
>Roger Roskam
>91
Indy Stealth
RT/TT
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 14:05:15
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Old Brake Fluid
Nope..its trashed. Probly has a ton of
water dissolved in it.
On Mon, 22 Jan 2001, Steve Lasher
wrote:
> While cleaning out my storage room for the move, I found an
old bottle
> of Motul brake fluid that must have fallen behind the
shelf. It has a
> small, pin-hole sized crack near the top (I'm
assuming from the fall).
> No fluid leaked out of the can, and the seal
under the cap is still
> intact. I figure it's been there at least 4
years. Question is:
> assuming no debris got in the can, is it still
good? It's an indoor
> storage room w/heat & a/c, and the hole
is tiny. Thoughts? TiA
>
> -Steve Lasher
> '92
VR-4
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 21:38:30
-0700
From: "Manoj 'Moe' Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SRS Light ON
Mine did the same thing and lasted for about two
weeks and then the light
went off.
I had left my car out in the cold
and the battery died. Once I jump started
the car the SRS light stayed
on. and then after a week it went off. I know
the bulb did
not burn out because when I start the car it comes on for a
second or
two.
Wait a week and see what happens.
Rgds
Moe
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "H. Le Hir" <hlehir@lucent.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 22, 2001 3:35 AM
Subject: Team3S: SRS Light
ON
> Gentleman, I have the following problem.
>
>
Recently, we had some snow around, so, as always, I "truned off" the
abs,
> removing the 10 A Fuse in the RD side fuse box in the engine
bay.....so
far,
> so good.
>
> Then, I left my car in a
Airport parking lot for one week (Had to fly
away)
>
> During
this week, the weather was pretty cold, so it's completely possible
> that
the voltage of the battery dropped.
>
> When I came back, the car
started fine, no problem, but I had a consistent
> SRS light
on.
>
> I had this previously, when my old battery died...and
someone explained me
> the "10 x ingition on/off) procedure to get rid of
it...
>
> However....this time......I couldn't manage to get that
damm light OFF.
>
> The satarted the car a LOT more than 10
times.....still here
> I tried the on/off it with the ABS fuse
removed....no luck
> I pout back the ABS fuse back in....on/off......not
working.
>
> And....the nearest Dodge dealer (one that can reset the
error) is
> located....in the USA......
> And Mitsu keeps telling me
that they cannot do anything to help me...
>
> So....can someone
give me a new "trick" that I can use on the car ?
>
> Either
re-describe me the ON/OFF procedure.....or things to check (and
Yup,
>
I looked at the 3S Manual Cd-Rom.....everything so far seems ok)
>
>
Best
>
> Henri
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#385
*********************